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Seasonality

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Description

Very beautiful located in a forest close to the cave. Very good bolted, but not every hold is clean, so bring a brush. Climbing there is great. The rock is solid and has perfect limestone.

Access issuesinherited fromJapan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Approach

Even though it is close to the Senbutsu Stalactite Cave it is not that easy to find. The way is a little bit hidden and overgrown and the rock is not visible from the cave. Google says that there is public transport to the cave only on weekends, but I am not sure about that, as we saw a bus on Wednesday as well. At the entrance house of Senbutu Stalactiye Cave walk down the stairs to the gentleman toilet and you find a small barrier which you pass. Walk down a path for about two minutes. Just before you reach a curve you see a overgrown and very small path on your right hand side. If you reach a old wooden bridge you are to far. Walk up this small path crossing uphill and stay on this path untill you reach some ropes along the steep sections. This ropes leads you to the rock. It takes about 10 min from the cave.

Ethicinherited fromJapan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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Plan your Trip

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk editConvert grades
Grade Route
1
5.10dNew routeSport 19m,9
2
5.9Big tomorrowSport 10m,4
3
5.11bOhudosanSport 19m,9

Under vertical part is crux that many crimps.

4
5.12bSaratogaSport 9m,5
5
5.12aDigital morning driveSport 20m,9
6
5.11bIcemanSport 13m,5
7
5.11a/bReiteSport 13m,5
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.
8
5.11bAlien panicSport 21m,13
9
5.11bParadise a gogoSport 21m,10

Technical crux.

10
5.12cDaisuke routeSport 20m,8
11
5.11bSharkSport 20m,8
12
5.10dSkaletSport 20m,7
13
5.11c/dTora tora toraSport 20m,8

Good powerful route!!

15
5.12a/bKaze ni nareSport 18m,8
16
5.11cWillySport 19m,8

Technical and balancy nice crux.

17
5.13aDon gabachoSport 19m,9
18
5.11cIwashimizuSport 20m,8
19
5.11bEtrangeSport 20m,8
20
5.10cKaedeSport 12m,5

Slab is hard.

21
5.10dSayonara soshite arigatoSport 10m,4
22
5.10aDogyandenyokaSport 9m,4

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Tue28Nov
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