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Routes in Canmore

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    Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

    Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,799 routes.

    GradeRouteGear stylePopularity
    AcephaleThe Junction
    5.12dOld School

    FA:JD LeBlanc,2019

    Sport 40m,21
    5.12b Bucking Horse

    Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above.

    FA:Todd Guyn,2004

    Sport 34m,13
    5.13bOriginal Dogs

    FA:JD LeBlanc,2019

    Sport 30m,15
    5.12b Hickory Dickory Dock

    Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic

    FA:Todd Guyn,2004

    Sport 34m,16
    5.12c Duck Bill

    Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor.

    FA:JD LeBlanc,2010

    Sport 31m,15
    5.12d Go Ask Alice

    Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle.

    FA:JD LeBlanc,2004

    Sport 34m,2,18
    5.12b Lose Yourself

    FA:Dale Robotham,2004

    Sport 30m
    5.11c Nitro Light

    An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs.

    FA:Lev Pinter,2015

    Sport 11m,7
    5.12cNitro

    A hardish boulder problem leads to a very fun airy easy finish.

    FA:Lev Pinter,2015

    Sport 32m,2,12
    5.11a Go Light

    Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light.

    Sport 12m,4
    5.12cShin to the Dome

    FA:Lev Pinter,2019

    Sport 35m,15
    5.12b Bucking dogs

    From after the bulge of Bucking horse go right into Original dogs.

    Sport 30m
    AcephaleLower Wall - Sea of Holes
    5.11d Approach Route

    Stick clip the 1st bolt. Excellent movement in the blue rock with a great heel hook crux going over the lip. 11c/d

    FA:Joe Bus

    Sport 13m,4
    5.13c PandoraSport 32m,16
    5.12a Pluvial Power

    Start below a yellow ledge. Follow long moves to awesome pockets up the steep wall, switch gears over the clean face climb above

    FA:Andy G

    Sport 12m,5
    5.12a Static Dynos

    Sustained pumpy big moves ends at the lip of the wall. Switch gears and crimp away on a featureless clean slab.

    Sport 13m,6
    ProjectUnknown
    AcephaleLower Wall Left
    5.10c Keys in the CarSport
    5.10d Nickel BagSport
    5.11aNickel Bag (Direct Start)Sport
    5.12a Girl Drink Drunk

    Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

    Sport
    5.12a The IrradicatorSport
    5.12a Illy DownSport
    5.12d Ice-Cream Head

    Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

    FA:JD LeBlanc & FAA Todd Guyn

    Sport
    5.12a Subbacultcha

    Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

    Sport
    5.13aIce Cream Head direct start

    Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

    FA:Derek Galloway

    Sport
    5.13bConception

    Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019

    Sport
    5.12cUnderestimated

    Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019

    Sport
    5.12b Chawesome Corner

    Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019

    Sport
    5.12cGumbino Invasion

    FA:Marcus Norman,2019

    Sport
    5.13aEidolons

    FA:Marcus Norman,2019

    Sport
    5.11aSol Food

    FA:Ysbrand Nusse,2019

    Sport
    5.11bFresh Cut

    FA:Mason Tessier

    Sport
    5.12bCasanova

    FA:Mason Tessier

    Sport
    5.12bSport Yoga

    FA:Pat Delaney,2019

    Sport
    AcephaleLower Wall Right
    5.11d JustineSport
    5.12c La Part MauditeSport
    5.13b Naissance de la Femme

    Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country.

    Sport 24m
    5.12c Deal With ItSport
    5.11b NeoconstructionistSport
    5.13c Wet LustSport
    5.11d Neo-Mom

    Neoconstructionist for a few bolts, two bolts for the traverse right, then finish on upper section of Where's Mom?

    Sport
    Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
    it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.
    5.12a Where's Mom?

    Technical climbing up nice rock with 2 cruxy moves. 3 rests and powerful climbing to finish.

    Sport 25m
    5.12d NemoSport
    5.13a The Dark HalfSport
    5.12c S.R.16Sport
    5.13a Last DanceSport
    5.11d S.R. 16 (Short Version)Sport2
    5.12c The Dark DanceSport
    AcephaleRight from the Junction
    5.12c HypochrondriacSport 33m
    5.12c The Two TowersSport 30m,12
    5.12cQuail

    Start on Hypochondriac. After moving past the 4th bolt above the ledge climb up the corners left side to the overhanging wall above.

    FA:todd Guyn

    Sport 33m,13
    AcephaleUpper Wall - The Mirror Stage
    5.12c Le Jeu Lugubre

    Climb between two prominent holes to a crux just before the third bolt. Traverse right on good holds to a couple of hard moves below the anchor.

    Sport 23m,9
    5.12d Swelltone Theatre

    Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux.

    FA:Daren tremaine,1994

    Sport 26m,11
    5.13bFive Hole goal

    Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes.

    Set:Ryan Johnstone

    FA:Evan Hau,2011

    Sport 28m,13
    5.12b R Full Fathom FiveSport 21m
    5.12b Le Bleu du Ciel

    After climbing through initial Choss, follow the left hand bolt line past a Hueco. The crux pulls a small roof below the anchor

    FA:Jd Leblanc

    Sport 21m,9
    5.12b Le Stade du Miroir

    Climb Le Bleu Du Ciel to the third bolt before trending right on sustained pockets and pods that lead over small ledges. Pumpy and powerful climbing!

    FA:Shep Steiner,1994

    Sport 21m,10
    5.12cProject for a Materialist Sport ClimbSport
    AcephaleUpper Wall - Bataille
    5.12aFalling sideways

    New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille.

    FA:evan hau

    Sport 14m,6
    5.11b Bataille

    Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains.

    FA:Dale Robinson,1994

    Sport 10m,5
    5.11b Dale's Extender

    Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor

    Sport 14m,9
    5.13b The Angry Inch

    From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season......

    FA:Jd LeBlanc,2000

    Sport 25m,11
    5.11a The Warm-Up

    Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor.

    FA:Shep Steiner,1996

    Sport 10m,4
    5.13c Porthole to Hell

    Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top.

    Set:Shep Steiner

    FA:Scott Milton,2000

    Sport 23m,7
    5.13c Sweet Thing

    This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest.

    FA:Todd Guyn,1994

    Sport 23m,9
    5.13c Whale Back

    Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall.

    FA:Scott Milton,2000

    Sport 23m,9
    5.12d Jingus Americanus

    Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words.

    FA:Daren Tremaine,1993

    Sport 14m,6
    5.13dFully Jingus

    Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge.

    Sport 26m,10
    5.12c Copocobana

    Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus.

    FA:scott milton

    Sport 14m,7
    5.14dFull Nelson

    Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux.

    Set:Evan Hau

    FA:Alex Megos,2016

    Sport 27m,11
    5.12dHalf Nelson

    Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus.

    FA:Evan Hau,2013

    Sport 14m,6
    5.13b The Hype

    Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued.

    FA:Jd LeBlanc,1997

    Sport 23m,10
    5.13b The Hood

    From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

    Set:Jd LeBlanc

    FA:Todd Guyn,1995

    Sport 18m,9
    5.13c Hairball

    Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd.

    Sport
    5.12c Altius

    This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner

    FA:Daren Tremaine,1993

    Sport 15m
    5.14aAngst

    This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius

    FA:Evan Hau,2012

    Sport 15m,8
    5.13dHairball Direct Finish

    A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab.

    FA:Adam Ondra,30 Nov 2016

    Sport2
    5.13cBeam Me Up Scotty

    Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal.

    FA:Lev pinter,2005

    Sport 13m,6
    5.14bThe Shine

    Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above

    FA:Joe Kinder,2012

    Sport 18m,9
    5.14cKinder Surprise

    Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore.

    Set:Joe Kinder

    FA:Josh muller,2015

    FFA:Alex Megos,Aug 2016

    Sport 20m,11
    5.14dBunda De Fora

    Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof.

    FA:Lev pinter,2006

    Sport 20m,11
    5.14cPrime Time

    Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest.

    Set:Derek Galloway

    FA:Josh Muller,2012

    Sport 17m,9
    5.14cFirst Flight

    Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project.

    Set:Lev Pinter

    FA:Josh muller,2014

    Sport 20m,14
    AcephaleUpper Wall - The Pavement
    5.14b Leviathan

    FA:Lev Pinter; FFA Scott Milton; Scott Milton

    Sport 29m
    5.14b Existence Mundane

    FA:Rick Conover

    FFA:Scott Milton,1997

    Sport 17m,10
    5.13d Endless Summer

    Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece.

    FA:Scott Milton

    Sport 19m
    5.13c Army Ants

    Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking.

    FA:Lev Pinter

    Sport 14m
    5.13dUnknown Stunt Man

    Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above.

    FA:Scott Milton,2010

    Sport 25m,11
    5.15bDisbelief

    The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently

    FA:Adam Ondra,Jul 2018

    Sport 20m
    5.13a The 39 Steps

    Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated.

    Sport 13m,6
    5.14aOjas

    Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds.

    Sport 22m,11
    5.12d Icebox Of Broken Dreams

    Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux.

    FA:Matt Pi,2006

    Sport 18m,8
    5.11c La Pause Cafe

    Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor.

    Sport 10m,5
    5.12aRetour au Travail

    Ext to La Pause Cafe

    FA:Evan Hau,2015

    Sport4
    5.12dFern Family Massacre

    Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt.

    Sport 27m,13
    5.13bEach one, Teach one

    Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting.

    Sport 29m,13
    5.12b Rockamoveya

    This line features a hard boulder problem start and finish with technical climbing inbetween.

    FA:Lev Pinter,2011

    Sport 13m,6
    5.12d Abandonment

    This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top.

    FA:evan Hau

    Sport 14m,7
    5.13a Class is in Session

    You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above.

    FA:Josh Muller

    Sport 11m,6

    Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,799 routes.

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