| Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AcephaleThe Junction | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | Old School FA:JD LeBlanc,2019 | Sport 40m,21 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★ Bucking Horse Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above. FA:Todd Guyn,2004 | Sport 34m,13 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | Original Dogs FA:JD LeBlanc,2019 | Sport 30m,15 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Hickory Dickory Dock Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic FA:Todd Guyn,2004 | Sport 34m,16 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ Duck Bill Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor. FA:JD LeBlanc,2010 | Sport 31m,15 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Go Ask Alice Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle. FA:JD LeBlanc,2004 | Sport 34m,2,18 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★ Lose Yourself FA:Dale Robotham,2004 | Sport 30m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11c | ★ Nitro Light An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs. FA:Lev Pinter,2015 | Sport 11m,7 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Nitro A hardish boulder problem leads to a very fun airy easy finish. FA:Lev Pinter,2015 | Sport 32m,2,12 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11a | ★★ Go Light Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light. | Sport 12m,4 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Shin to the Dome FA:Lev Pinter,2019 | Sport 35m,15 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★ Bucking dogs From after the bulge of Bucking horse go right into Original dogs. | Sport 30m | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleLower Wall - Sea of Holes | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.11d | ★★ Approach Route Stick clip the 1st bolt. Excellent movement in the blue rock with a great heel hook crux going over the lip. 11c/d FA:Joe Bus | Sport 13m,4 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★ Pandora | Sport 32m,16 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★★ Pluvial Power Start below a yellow ledge. Follow long moves to awesome pockets up the steep wall, switch gears over the clean face climb above FA:Andy G | Sport 12m,5 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★ Static Dynos Sustained pumpy big moves ends at the lip of the wall. Switch gears and crimp away on a featureless clean slab. | Sport 13m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| Project | Unknown | ||||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleLower Wall Left | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.10c | ★★ Keys in the Car | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.10d | ★★ Nickel Bag | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11a | Nickel Bag (Direct Start) | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★★ Girl Drink Drunk Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★★ The Irradicator | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★★ Illy Down | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★ Ice-Cream Head Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt FA:JD LeBlanc & FAA Todd Guyn | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★ Subbacultcha Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | Ice Cream Head direct start Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt FA:Derek Galloway | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | Conception Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Underestimated Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Chawesome Corner Set:Maddy Marchuk,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Gumbino Invasion FA:Marcus Norman,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | Eidolons FA:Marcus Norman,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11a | Sol Food FA:Ysbrand Nusse,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11b | Fresh Cut FA:Mason Tessier | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | Casanova FA:Mason Tessier | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | Sport Yoga FA:Pat Delaney,2019 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleLower Wall Right | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.11d | ★ Justine | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ La Part Maudite | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | ★★★ Naissance de la Femme Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country. | Sport 24m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★★ Deal With It | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11b | ★ Neoconstructionist | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★ Wet Lust | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11d | ★★ Neo-Mom Neoconstructionist for a few bolts, two bolts for the traverse right, then finish on upper section of Where's Mom? | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond. | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | ★★ Where's Mom? Technical climbing up nice rock with 2 cruxy moves. 3 rests and powerful climbing to finish. | Sport 25m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★ Nemo | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | ★★ The Dark Half | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ S.R.16 | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | ★★ Last Dance | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11d | ★★ S.R. 16 (Short Version) | Sport2 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ The Dark Dance | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleRight from the Junction | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ Hypochrondriac | Sport 33m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ The Two Towers | Sport 30m,12 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Quail Start on Hypochondriac. After moving past the 4th bolt above the ledge climb up the corners left side to the overhanging wall above. FA:todd Guyn | Sport 33m,13 | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleUpper Wall - The Mirror Stage | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★ Le Jeu Lugubre Climb between two prominent holes to a crux just before the third bolt. Traverse right on good holds to a couple of hard moves below the anchor. | Sport 23m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★ Swelltone Theatre Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux. FA:Daren tremaine,1994 | Sport 26m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | Five Hole goal Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes. Set:Ryan Johnstone FA:Evan Hau,2011 | Sport 28m,13 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b R | ★ Full Fathom Five | Sport 21m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Le Bleu du Ciel After climbing through initial Choss, follow the left hand bolt line past a Hueco. The crux pulls a small roof below the anchor FA:Jd Leblanc | Sport 21m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★ Le Stade du Miroir Climb Le Bleu Du Ciel to the third bolt before trending right on sustained pockets and pods that lead over small ledges. Pumpy and powerful climbing! FA:Shep Steiner,1994 | Sport 21m,10 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | Project for a Materialist Sport Climb | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleUpper Wall - Bataille | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | Falling sideways New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille. FA:evan hau | Sport 14m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11b | ★★ Bataille Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains. FA:Dale Robinson,1994 | Sport 10m,5 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11b | ★ Dale's Extender Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor | Sport 14m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | ★ The Angry Inch From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season...... FA:Jd LeBlanc,2000 | Sport 25m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11a | ★ The Warm-Up Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor. FA:Shep Steiner,1996 | Sport 10m,4 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★ Porthole to Hell Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top. Set:Shep Steiner FA:Scott Milton,2000 | Sport 23m,7 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★★★ Sweet Thing This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest. FA:Todd Guyn,1994 | Sport 23m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★★ Whale Back Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall. FA:Scott Milton,2000 | Sport 23m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Jingus Americanus Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists FA:Daren Tremaine,1993 | Sport 14m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13d | Fully Jingus Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge. | Sport 26m,10 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ Copocobana Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus. FA:scott milton | Sport 14m,7 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14d | Full Nelson Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux. Set:Evan Hau FA:Alex Megos,2016 | Sport 27m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | Half Nelson Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus. FA:Evan Hau,2013 | Sport 14m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | ★★ The Hype Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued. FA:Jd LeBlanc,1997 | Sport 23m,10 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | ★★★ The Hood From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem. Set:Jd LeBlanc FA:Todd Guyn,1995 | Sport 18m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★★ Hairball Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd. | Sport | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12c | ★★ Altius This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner FA:Daren Tremaine,1993 | Sport 15m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14a | Angst This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius FA:Evan Hau,2012 | Sport 15m,8 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13d | Hairball Direct Finish A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab. FA:Adam Ondra,30 Nov 2016 | Sport2 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | Beam Me Up Scotty Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal. FA:Lev pinter,2005 | Sport 13m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14b | The Shine Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above FA:Joe Kinder,2012 | Sport 18m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14c | Kinder Surprise Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore. | Sport 20m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14d | Bunda De Fora Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof. FA:Lev pinter,2006 | Sport 20m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14c | Prime Time Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest. Set:Derek Galloway FA:Josh Muller,2012 | Sport 17m,9 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14c | First Flight Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project. Set:Lev Pinter FA:Josh muller,2014 | Sport 20m,14 | |||||||||||||||||
| AcephaleUpper Wall - The Pavement | |||||||||||||||||||
| 5.14b | ★★ Leviathan FA:Lev Pinter; FFA Scott Milton; Scott Milton | Sport 29m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14b | ★★ Existence Mundane FA:Rick Conover FFA:Scott Milton,1997 | Sport 17m,10 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13d | ★★ Endless Summer Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece. FA:Scott Milton | Sport 19m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13c | ★★★ Army Ants Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking. FA:Lev Pinter | Sport 14m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13d | Unknown Stunt Man Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above. FA:Scott Milton,2010 | Sport 25m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.15b | Disbelief The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently FA:Adam Ondra,Jul 2018 | Sport 20m | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | ★★★ The 39 Steps Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated. | Sport 13m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.14a | Ojas Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds. | Sport 22m,11 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★ Icebox Of Broken Dreams Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux. FA:Matt Pi,2006 | Sport 18m,8 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.11c | ★★ La Pause Cafe Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor. | Sport 10m,5 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12a | Retour au Travail Ext to La Pause Cafe FA:Evan Hau,2015 | Sport4 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | Fern Family Massacre Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt. | Sport 27m,13 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13b | Each one, Teach one Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting. | Sport 29m,13 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12b | ★★★ Rockamoveya This line features a hard boulder problem start and finish with technical climbing inbetween. FA:Lev Pinter,2011 | Sport 13m,6 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.12d | ★★ Abandonment This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top. FA:evan Hau | Sport 14m,7 | |||||||||||||||||
| 5.13a | ★ Class is in Session You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above. FA:Josh Muller | Sport 11m,6 | |||||||||||||||||