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The Japan Times
 
February 17, 2026
The Japan Times
 

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The Japan Times

Peter finds a modern French voice

Changing the concept of a long-established restaurant is always tricky. It can provoke more than it pleases, especially among regulars.

Some establishments, however, manage the transition without compromising their ethos.Nadaman, for example, has skillfully mergedkaiseki (multicourse Japanese haute cuisine) and sushiomakase (chef’s choice) into a single, harmonious format.

Others opt for a bolder reinvention.

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