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Hiroshima: Just Opened

ByStefan Schauwecker

Hiroshima is not usually among the very first cities to see thecherry blossoms open, but this year it was the fourthprefectural capital to recordkaika, the opening of the blossoms, on March 25 (afterNaha on January 13,Kochi on March 23 andMiyazaki a few hours before Hiroshima on the 25th).

Two days after the reported opening I visited Hiroshima and the nearby island ofMiyajima to check on the state of the blossoms, and not surprisingly found them still at an early state. However, the temperatures are forecast to skyrocket from Friday, which will lead to an acceleration in the opening process. Consequently, I expect the best viewing period in this part of the country to start from early next week.

Miyajima

Just Opened
·

Today I visitedMiyajima for the first time since the island introduced a visitor tax of 100 yen per person last October, but little did I notice because the tax was included in the ferry fare, which I paid with mySuica card. Only holders ofrail passes that cover the JR ferry will need to pay the visitor tax separately at a special vending machine at the ferry pier.

Information for Japan Rail Pass users on where to pay the visitor tax
JR pass holders pay the visitor tax at a special vending machine
Ferry ride to Miyajima
View of Itsukushima Shrine

The number of tourists who visitedMiyajima today was overwhelming, considering it was a weekday, albeit with perfect weather conditions and during the spring school holidays. I have never seen anything close to today's crowds on the island before in my previous 20 or so visits since 1996. The main approach toItsukushima Shrine was as crowded asHarajuku inTokyo, and there was a roughly 50 meter long queue for entering the shrine.

Miyajima Omotesando Shopping Street was as busy as Harajuku's Takeshita Street
Lining up to enter Itsukushima Shrine

Thecherry trees on Miyajima have only just started to open their first few blossoms. Given the warm weather ahead, I expect thebest viewing period to start early next week.

A weeping cherry tree has just opened its first blossoms
River lined by cherry trees, some of which have just started to open

While the main streets ofMiyajima were very crowded today, you could escape the crowds by venturing into the side streets. Two of the island's nicestcherry blossom spots are located at the end of such side streets, including a small park near the tahoto-style pagoda, which is currently covered up for renovations. The blossoms in this sheltered park were the most advanced that I encountered today, with some trees approaching the 10 percent mark.

A peaceful park with cherry trees just off the main street
The sheltered park had the most advanced blossoms of the day
The hillside park also offers a glimpse of the famous floating torii gate in the distance
... as well as views towards Itsukushima Shrine and the pagodas
The tahoto-style pagoda is currently covered up for renovations
The blossoms next to the pagoda were not open yet

Another nice cherry blossom spot is a small park on the hillside behind the 5-storied pagoda, overlooking the town. The blossoms in this park, which is more exposed to the elements, were not open yet and still needed some more time to start opening.

The park is accessed through narrow lanes along the hill behind the 5-storied pagoda
Hillside park with cherry trees
Nice views over the town and sea
The blossoms have not started opening yet

Peace Memorial Park

About To Open
·

In the city ofHiroshima I visited thePeace Memorial Park, where hundreds of cherry trees have been planted. The blossoms there were generally still closed with a very small number of exceptions. I expect thebest viewing to start here in the first half of next week.

Peace Memorial Park
The blossoms have generally not started opening yet
The cherry trees are found mainly along the riverside
Rows of cherry trees
I could count the number of open blossoms on my fingers. Here are two of them.

At the center of the park stands thePeace Memorial Museum, which introducede-tickets from this month in an effort to decrease lines at its ticket counters. However, it seems that most visitors were not taking advantage of the new system yet, as there was a considerable line of people without e-tickets in front of the entrance.

Lining up at the entrance of the Peace Memorial Museum
E-ticket holders can skip the line
The park was well visited today

Before taking theshinkansen to my next destination, I inspected the construction site in front of Hiroshima Station, where a bridge is being built for trams to enter into the second floor of the station, greatly improving the convenience of transfers between trains and trams. Works on theimproved station building are scheduled for completion in spring of next year.

Improvements are coming to Hiroshima Station next spring
This bridge will allow trams to enter directly into the second floor of the station
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