EVOLUTION VS. INVENTION Where to begin? Advanced techniques 1. Examine old cookbooks. 2. Research the history of each ingredient. PRODUCT HISTORIES "LOST RECIPES" RESTAURANT DISHES TOOLS OF THE TRADE Sometimes the answer to a food history question is straightforward and easy to confirm (theingredients of the originalDagwood sandwich).Other times the answer is a tasty puzzle (Clubsandwiches) with conflicting pieces. And then? There are questions for which there are nosatisfactory answers(Who named the "monkey dish?"). There aretimes when the best one can do is assemble as much information as possible and make educatedguesses based on supporting historical evidence. Croissants, ice cream cones, pinklemonade...culinary lore abounds. In short, food history isnot a "piece of cake." People (Lobster Newberg, Reuben Sandwiches, Chicken Tetrazzini, Fettuccini Alfredo) Cook books used in Early America were published in Europe and major urban American centers: New York., Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore. Recipes in those days were often copied verbatim from one author to another (forget trademark infringement!). Please note: many popular cook books through time offer several editions, revisions,publishers, and authors. We would be happy to help you determine an approximate date/identify your cookbook if you are willing to share information outlined above. It would also help if you could scan a few sample pages with the popular recipes. Who knows? We might be able to match it up! Standard scholarly protocol for examining/reading manuscript cook books for presentation to modern audiences includes: Want to recreate these old recipes? Our notes oninterepreting & adapting vintage recipes. Please note: the value of old cook books, like anything else, is based on what buyers are willing to pay. Most mass producedcookbooks from the 20th century have low value on the open market. Of course, there are exceptions. Autographed copies,first editions, limited or special editions, are generally worth more than subsequent counterparts. Pre-20th century cookbooksgenerally have more value because they are harder to find. In all cases, condition of the item plays a key role in determing value. Original binding, covers, dust jackets, no missingpages, no writing (unless the owner was famous), no stains or obvious wear. Whether you're selling or buying, it pays to do your homework! Tools for research: Where do food historians work? Culinary history organizations meet in some cities. They offer educational programs, topical lectures andexcellent networking opportunities.Some food historians join theInternational Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP).This organization offers a food history roundtable. It also manages theCulinary Trust, a non-profit organization devotedto preserving our culinary treasures and promoting scholarly research projects. What's the difference between a food historian and a culinary historian? The latter is also a professionally trained chef.The first group can study it; the second group can actually cook it. More or less. She herself said "Note: Ms. Olver is not a chef. Culinarytraining (if you call it that!) was a 4 year stint as a short order cook in college. She is an intuitive cook who views recipesas starting points for personal inspiration. Her dishes have no recipes, no names. Some work out better than others. None of them can be replicated. If we're lucky, life gives us a few delicious chances to experiment. When the results taste good, huzzah!" About culinary research &about copyright
What is the history of your favorite food? That depends upon the food and how deep you want todig. Take tiramasu. This dish was "created" in the late 20th century. You could find a fewmagazines articles confirming period popularity/origination and stop there. Or? You could go thenext level and research the recipe based on composition. You would soon discover this dish wasbased on Victorian-era moulded creams which were based on Colonial-era tipsy cakes which wereinspired by Renaissance-era trifles.
Very few (if any) foods are invented. Most are contemporary twists on traditional themes. LouisDiat's famous Vichysoisse was a childhood favorite. Today's grilled cheese sandwich is connectedto ancient cooks who melted cheese on bread. 1950s meatloaf is connected to ground cookedmeat products promoted at the turn of the 20th century, which are, in turn related to ancientRoman minces. Need more? Corn dogs and weiner schnitzel. French fries and Medieval fritters.New York gyros and Middle Eastern doner kebabs. Hershey's Kisses and ancient Incan cocoa.
Check food history encyclopedias and dictionaries. Standard sourcesnoted here. Cuisine/periodcookbooks and history sources may also be helpful.
One of the most challenging aspects of recipe research is identifying common themes and makingconnections. A survey of cookbooks through time often reveals similar recipes with differentnames. A careful inspection of ingredients and cooking instruction confirms or refutes culinarylineage. To complicate matters, variant spellings often appear in older texts. Of course, the first"real" appearance of any recipe often predates the first occurence of recorded in print by severalyears.
Work your way back from the current recipe. Look for similarities in ingredient and method.BEWARE. Recipes change names.
Oldworld or new? Rare commodity or common ingredient? Apple pie is an American icon, but applesaren't native to our country. Tomato sauce is the cornerstone of many popular Italian dishes, butthese fruits (as they are botanically classed) weren't known to Europe until the 16th century. WestAfrican Lemony Chicken Okra Soup. Some foods (rice, beans, pork, bread, soup) are nearlyubiquitious. These recipes evolved according to ingredient availability, technologicaladvancement, and local taste.
If the product is still being made, start with theU.S. Patent &Trademark Office database. This provides the date of first introduction, original manufacturerand(usually) current trademark holder. Corporate "biographies," article databases, product histories,and company Web sites often provide details on the product's introduction, market strategy,consumer trends, variations (the iterations of Oreos), packaging, and pricing. Anniversary articles(100th anniversary of Jell-0 celebrated in 1997) often provide excellent overviews.
Family favorites can sometimes be recovered. It is very helpful if you have some idea of recipeorigination: cookbook, magazine article, newspaper clipping, radio/television show, "back of thebox," contest winner? Where did the cook usually get her recipes? Where and when (1930sQuebec) is important for tracking local fare. The cook's ethnic heritage (Polish Jew, FrenchCanadian, West African) is crucial for locating "grandmother's traditional" recipes. Sources: oldcookbooks, recipe exchanges, community cokbooks, period magazines & local newpapers.
Signature recipes from famous restaurants fall into three categories:
Researching the history of a specific cuisine, recipe, food, or product often requires using avariety of sources to develop a complete and accurate picture. Depending upon the question, theanswer may require:
Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America/Smith,Oxford Companion toFood/Davidson,An A to Z of Food and Drink/Ayto,Cambridge World History of Food/Kiple & Ornelas,Food in the Ancient World fromA to Z/Dalby,History of Food/Toussaint-Samat,The Encyclopedia of AmericanFood and Drink/Mariani,AmericanCentury Cookbook/Anderson.
Oxford English Dictionary,Dictionary ofAmericanisms/Mitford, Dictionary of American Regional English/Cassidy,I HearAmericaTalking/Flexner
The Story of Corn/Fussell,The Tomato in America/Smith,The True History ofChocolate/Coe,A Social History of Tea/Pettigrew,Uncommon Grounds: TheHistory of Coffee and How it Transformed our World/Pendergrast. Identify titles with theLibrary of Congress catalog. Your librarian can help youobtain the books.
America's First Cuisines/Coe,Food and Feast in Tudor England/Sim,Food inEarly Modern Europe/Albala,A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food/K.T. Achaya,Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age fo the 19th Century/Wilson,ClassicRussian Cooking/Toomre,Jewish Cooking in America/Nathan
How Products are Made,Encyclopedia of Consumer Brands,
magazine/newspaper/trade journal databases are great places to find "lost recipes." Ask yourlibrarian about access.New York Times Historic, EBSCO'sMasterfile,ProQuest'sNewsStand, andFactiva. Scanned newspapers (Proquest Historic,NewspaperArchive.com, & local collections include advertisements, making them best sources forretrieving recipes published in food ads, commercial product names, and historic prices.
Origin of Cultivated Plants/De Candolle
JSTOR,Dissertation Abstracts,HistoricalAbstracts,America: History & Life,Sociological Abstracts,Agricola
Libraries, museums, historical societies, living history museums & industry/company archives.Outstanding culinary history library collections (U.S.): Harvard/Schlesinger, University of Pennsylvania,Cornell University, Johns Hopkins University, University of Iowa, Michgan State University, NewYork Academy of Medicine, New York Public Library, Los Angeles Public Library & The Culinary Intitute of America (Hyde Park).
Culinary researchers, foodways curators, chefs, professors, governmentofficials, corporate information officers, book authors, historical reenactors (Society for CreativeAnachronism=Medieval food specialists).
These are uploaded by food manufacturers, research institutions, food media sites, and privateindividuals.
There are several sources you can use to construct your own food product timeline. Sources vary according to your definition of "food invention" (brand new product, or variation of extant line (mini oreos) and purpose of your project. Yes, this is research! If you need new USA commercial food products, year-by-year we suggest you check:
If you're looking for restaurant food innovations & trends,The National Restaurant Organization is your best bet for data.
...keyword search "new food" or the manufacturer's name with the word new [kellogg's and new]. There you will get new product announcements, advertising notes & marketing strategy. Ask local public librarian how to access.
...some offer company history/timeline detailing major innovations & new products. Press release archives announce new items.
...search by company (owner/patent assignee) or classification/limit by date).
...expensive!NPD Foodworld is one of the most well known. Published reports are not available in public libraries.
...trade journal devoted to Food & Beverage industries.
...google (trade show food) to identify shows featuring new food products & innovations. Some food categories have their own associations & trade show. EX:Snack Food Association.
How are recipes named? Great question with several answers. Recipe names celebrate, commemorate, elucidate, and entice. Recipes are named by chefs, restauranteurs, food companies, test kitchens, home cooks and contest winners. Recipes named for people generally fall into two categories:celebrities and family members/frequent patrons of the chef/restaurant owner. Consider:
Places (New England Clam Chowder, Manhattans, Rocky Mountain Oysters, Waldorf Salad, Dover Sole, Frankfurters)
Events (Chicken Marengo, Coronation Chicken, Earthquake Cake)
Cooking method (Coq au vin, Fondue, New England Boiled Dinner, Tuna Noodle Casserole, Flower Pot Bread, Corned Beef)
Classic French designations (Florentine=spinach, Poivrode=black pepper, Chiffonade=thin cut slices)
Descriptive (Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce, Fried Onion Burgers, Memphis Dry Ribs, Chilled Cucumber Soup)
Ethnic/cultural attributions (Irish Soda Bread, German Potato Salad, French Dressing, Russian Tea)
Company promotions (Knox Perfection Salad, Nestle Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies, Kool-Aid Pickles)
Shape (Flat-iron steak, Grape Tomatoes, Lemon Squares)
Texture (Cream cheese, Mille Feuilles, Wilted lettuce, Fruit Leather, Chiffon Pie)
"Looks Like" (Ciabbata=slipper, Elephant Ears, Cats Tongues/langues de chat, Mud Pie, Ox Eyes)
"Tastes Like" (Mock Apple pie, Mock turtle soup)
Foreign & Indigenous borrowings (Barbecue, Waffles, Kabobs, Quesadillas, Yogurt, Escabeche, Jambalaya, Sofki)
Body parts (Head Cheese, Pigs Feet, Ox Tails, Spare Ribs)
Flavors (Sweet & Sour Pork, Pepper Steak, Honey Mustard)
Key ingredient (Tapioca Pudding, Beef a la Mode, Chicken Salad, Cornbread, Key Lime Pie, Navy Bean Soup, Gingerbread)
Contests (SPAM, Tunnel of Fudge)
Holidays (Christmas Pudding, Easter Ham, New Year Cookies)
Origin stories (Ice Cream Sundaes, S'Mores)
Intrigue (Impossible Pie, Zombies, Wacky Cake, Rocky Road, Red Velvet Cake, Pop Rocks)
If your cook book has no standard identifying standard marks (title page, publishers marking/imprint, author, location) you might still be able to identify it. We find books like this from time to time. Physical description notes in catalogs of major collections (national libraries, university libraries, special collections housed in archives and museums) are gold.
If your book is completelymanuscript (hand written) then recipes are your best clues. Also...where/when was the item purchased. Can you trace to possible original owner (either documented or by inference)?
Manuscript cook books are indeed rare and special finds. Decoding origins pose interesting challenges. As we turn the pages of this very personalpiece of history, we wonder: who wrote this book and why?Recipe measures (butter the size of a walnut, No. 2 cans), cooking instructions ("until done," "hot oven") and kitchen tools (hoops, Mary Ann pans) are standard tools for identifying general period.
A. Complete list of recipes...cross indexed by type.
B. List of ingredients...indicating frequency of reference. This suggests items commonly used by the author/readily available.
C. Cooking terms & instructions...bake, fry, "until done."
D. Weights & Measures...butter the size of a walnut, 3 pounds flour.
E. Headnotes & introduction...author, provenance, how obtained.
F. Transcription & original images...exact transcription vs slightly redacted to assist modern readers.
G. Glossary...archaic terms (pie plant, paper of cornstarch) & radically different/variant spellings require explanation.
H. Modernized recipes?...nice addition of the book is intended for general readers/home cooks. If you do not have culinary training, hire a professional recipe developer to supply workable directions.
The Food TimelineDOES NOT provide valuing services. Those services are provided by professionalantiquarian booksellers,licensed appraisers, and auction houses. Free online sources for approximate values are used booksellers(Alibris, AbeBooks, UsedBookCentral, etc.) and EBay. Antique Trader'sCollectible CookbooksPrice Guide/Patricia Edwards & Peter Peckham, provides price ranges for selected popular American books. Used/old bookstores often have sections devoted to cookooks; check to see what the "going" retail rate is. Check item carefully for yearpublished and edition.
"National" days (food or otherwise) are declared by one of three sources:
1. Federal government (USA=Presidential Executive Order (EO) or Dept. of Commerce) designating a day, week, month dedicated to a particular topic. There is no limit to the number of EO in any given month. Topics are selected by legislators and organizations who want to promote awareness (School Lunch Month) or economic activity (a food designation generally promotes folks engaged in agriculture, transportation, retail and/or foodservice). EOs can be issued annually (Thanksgiving Proclamation) or one time.EO online.
2.Industry associations declare national days to promote products. Example:National Sandwich Day.
3.Companies declare national days to promote their products. Example:Iced Tea Week.
4. Charities & not-for-profit organizations. Example: the originalDoughnut Day.
1.Chase's Calendar of Annual Events (found in many public libraries, but it is a challenge to find a library with a backrun). Entries are arranged by day, indexed by title and subject. Entries provide information regarding the originator of the day. Use Chases to track first and last instance of a particular day. This is interesting and detailed research because some "national" days actually change date and sponsor.
2.Historic newspapers (National and local) are great sources for announcements and details, especially regarding ad campaigns and/or contests. Your local librarian can help you access.
3. NOTE: Many "national" food move throughout the calendar through time. Today's "first Friday in June" might have been"last Tuesday in October" back in the day. Likewise, sponsorships and purposes can change from original intent to current mode.
Food historian is a niched career field. That's why you won't find information on what we do and where we work using standard career reference sources. While some schools (universities/culinaryarts schools) offer classes in food history studies, there is no certification or specific degree for this career. [NOTE: some universities offer graduate degrees ingastronomy.] Many practictioners (but not all) have college/advanced degrees. These degrees center on history, anthropology, women's studies, English literature, sociology and library science. We are drawn to food history for differentreasons. In some cases, food history "chose" us.Please note: many professional food historians have full-time "day" jobs to pay the bills.
A food historian with a masters in libraryscience, Lynne created the Food Timeline in March 1999 and over the next 14 years welcomed 35 million readers and, at no charge to anyone, answered 25 thousand questions.She worked regularly with students, teachers, media, culinary professionals, cook book authors/editors,living history museums, and the general publicworldwide providingoriginal content, background material, fact checking services, and document delivery. She was regularly tapped by journalists writing for theWall Street Journal,New York Times,NPR,America's TestKitchens,Cooks Illustrated,Sunset, andSaveur. The Food Timeline was awardedSaveur 100 recognition (2004). Details on the FT's origin and evolution chronicled byHeritage Radio (Brooklyn NY) &Culinary Types/TW Barritt. Ms. Olver was a contributor to theOxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (Second Breakfast, Mock Foods) andGastronomica"The Truth About Clams Casino".
Her FoodTimeline library owned 2300+books, hundreds of 20th century USA food company brochures,& dozens of vintage magazines (Good Housekeeping,American Cookery,Ladies HomeJournal &c.)Lynne Olver died April 14, 2015, age 57.
Research conducted by LynneOlver, editorThe FoodTimeline.About this site.
[8]ページ先頭