Mini guide to Budapest's spas
Take advantage of the Hungarian city’s thermal waters, as the Romans first did almost two millennia ago.
TheRomans first took advantage of the city’s thermal waters almost two millenniaago. Now the choice of bathhouse is legion, whether you want to lie back andadmire the architecture or get in a few laps.
Best for treatments
Housed in a sprawling 19th century complex,Lukács Baths has eight pools, both indoorand outdoor – water temperatures range from 22°C to 36°C. There’s also adrinking cure hall and treatments on offer include a ‘medical healing massage’,mud pack treatment and foot massage (II Frankel Leó út 25–29; 6am–8pm; from£6.40).
A gigantic 1913 building in City Park housesSzéchenyi Baths. The water is thehottest in the city, reaching the surface at a scalding 76°C, and is high incalcium, magnesium and hydrogen carbonate – good for joint pain, arthritis,blood circulation and disorders of the nervous system. There are a dozenthermal baths, salted tub-bath treatments and a great variety of massages (XIVÁllatkerti körút 11; 6am–10pm; from £9).
Among the most modern, but least atmospheric, of all thebaths,Danubius Health SpaMargitsziget thermal spa is on leafy Margaret Island. There’s a salt cavewith rock salt from the Dead Sea for relaxing in, and a huge array of massagessuch as Thai, dry brush, hot stone and an intriguing ‘wine cream massage’. Adaily ticket includes entry to the swimming pools, sauna and steam room and useof the fitness machines (6.30am–9.30pm; from £14).
Best historic
Soaking in the thermal waters ofGellért’sArt Nouveau baths has been likened to bathing in a cathedral. The indoorswimming pools are the most beautiful in Budapest, with the main pool having aglass dome, Art Nouveau mosaics, stained-glass windows and many statues. Thereare eight baths to choose from (XI Kelenhegyi út 2–4; 6am–8pm; from £12).
The four pools ofKirály,with water temperatures of between 26°C and 40°C, are genuine Turkish bathserected in 1565. The Turks built the complex away from the city’s springs toensure they could still use it if there was a siege – to this day it gets itswater from Lukács Bath. Typical Turkish elements include a wonderful skylitoctagonal dome roof and octagonal pool (II Fo utca 84; 9am–8pm; from £7).
Built in 1566, the recently renovatedRudas baths are the most Turkish of all inBudapest, with an octagonal pool and domed cupola with coloured glass andmassive columns. It can get lively on mixed weekend nights, when bathingcostumes are necessary. The complex includes thermal baths, steam baths, tubbaths and night baths (Dobrentei tér 9; 6am–6pm Mon–Wed, 6am–8pm Thu–Sun; from£4.30).
Best for fitness andswimming
Dagály, a huge centre north ofÚjlipótváros has 10 pools, including two thermal ones, a whirlpool with neckshowers, geysers, as well as a 50m lap pool. The surrounding park offers plentyof grass and shade – and there are also beach volleyball and football pitches(XIII Népfürdo utca 36; 6am–8pm; from £5.50).
The largest series of pools in the capital,Palatinus Beach on Margaret Islandhas a dozen pools (three with thermal waters) and one extra-large swimmingpool, wave machines and water slides. There are also ping-pong tables, pooltables, trampolines, a football pitch, beach volleyball pitch, and fast food,such as hot dogs, available (9am–7pm Apr–Aug; from £5).
Named after its architect and Hungary’s first Olympic champ,the Alfréd Hajós on Margaret Island is where swimming gets serious. Its twoindoor and three outdoor pools make up the National Sports Pool, where theOlympic swimming and water-polo teams train, and you can get some laps in (0036 1 340 4946; 6am–6pm outdoors May–Sep, indoors Oct–Apr; from £3.80).
Transport
BA, easyJet, Jet2, Ryanair and Whizz Air fly to Budapest from LondonGatwick, Heathrow, Luton and Stansted, and Manchester (from £98 from LondonStansted; ryanair.com). The airport is 10 miles east of the city: you can getbus 200E into the city, but theAirportShuttle Minibusz will take you straight to your hotel if you book inadvance (from £14 return), ortaxis areplentiful (approx £17). Budapest is easy to get around with its cheap andefficientpublic transport: a 24- hourtravelcard is £4.80.
Where to stay
Bródy House, the erstwhileresidence of the prime minister when parliament sat next door at No 8 insouthern Pest, has been refurbished but not altered substantially. Itsguestrooms are dedicated to local artists and are filled with modern art (VIIIBródy Sándor utca 10; from £60).
TheGerlóczy Rooms de Luxhas a number of original 1890s décor, including a winding wrought-ironstaircase and domed stained-glass skylight. The 15 attractive rooms featureshowers or clawfoot baths (V Gerlóczy utca 1; from £92).
TheZara Continental Hotelhas 272 beautifully furnished rooms, a wellness centre and a huge atrium lobbyretaining the original 19th-century look of the building (VII Dohány utca42–44; suite from £150).
The article 'Mini guide to Budapest's spas' was published in partnership withLonely Planet Traveller.
