 Thalassery Faloodha | |
| Alternative names | Thalassery biriyani or biriani (or biryani) |
|---|---|
| Course | Main course |
| Place of origin | India |
| Region or state | Kerala |
| Created by | Malabar variant |
| Main ingredients | Kaima/Jeerakasalarice,chicken,spices |
| 250 kcal (1,000 kJ)[1] | |
| Other information | Accompaniments: raita, grated coconut, mint chutney, pickle |
| This article is part of the series on |
| Indian cuisine |
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Regional cuisines
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Ingredients, types of food |
TheThalassery cuisine refers to the distinctcuisine fromThalassery city of northernKerala, which has blended in Arabian, Persian, Indian and European styles of cooking as a result of its long history as amaritime trading post.
Thalassery is known for its Thalasserybiryani[2] (in local dialect,biri-yaa-ni).[3] Unlike other biryani dishes Thalassery biryani is made usingkaima/jeerakasala, an Indianaromatic rice instead of the usualbasmati rice.[4]
Influences ofArabian andMughal cultures are evident, especially in the dishes of the Muslim community, though they have also become popular generally.[5]
Thalassery also occupies a special place in the modern history of Kerala as the pioneer of itsbakery industry, since the first bakery was started by Mambally Bapu in 1880 and the Western-stylecakes were introduced in 1883.[6][7][8]
There are broadly two classes ofnon-vegetarian cuisine in Kerala: Malabar cuisine, which is from North Kerala, and Syrian-Christian cuisine which is from the South (Travancore andKochi regions).
The two are clearly distinct: the former has Mughlai-Arab, Portuguese, British, Dutch, and French influences and the latter includes a mix of Kerala traditional dishes rich in coconut, as well as various recipes of Syrian, Jewish, Dutch, Portuguese and British origin.[9][10]
Most dishes of Malabar cuisine, including Thalasserybiryani, involve frying inghee.
There are sweet and spicy variants and they are predominantly non-vegetarian. Some typical examples includeari pathiri,chatti pathiri,coin porottas,kallummakaya (mussels) fry,arikkadukka (stuffed fried mussels) andbiryanis with chicken, mutton, prawns, fish and egg, as well as sweeteners such asaleesa[11] andKadalapparippu ada.[12] The sweeteners are mostly used as snacks to be consumed in the afternoon or early evening.[13][14][15]Biryani was introduced into the region due to Islamic influence and the recipe gradually evolved into Thalasserybiryani.Biryani is traditionally seen only as an occasional serving and not as staple food.
Thalassery faloodha is a regional variant of the Persian dessertFaloodeh. This is a cocktail of fruit salad, dry fruits such asraisins,pistachios,cashews,almonds (badam), rose milk and vanilla ice cream.
The Asian green mussel (Perna viridis) is favored in Thalassery dishes. The mussel is calledKallu-mma-kaya (fruit on the stone) orkadukka. They grow on rocky surfaces in theArabian Sea.
Other dishes includekallummakaya porichathu (fried mussel),arikkadukka (stuffed-in-shell mussel, steamed and fried),kallumakkaya ularthiyath (mussel stir-fry),kallumakkaya varattiyathu (mussel pickles).Elambakka (clams) are also popular.[16]
The green mussels' popularity led farmers to employaquaculture in local rivers to increase supplies.[17] Thalassery natives are known for their generous hospitality towards guests.[18]
Another Thalassery dish iskozhi-kkalu,[19] made with slicedtapioca.Pappadam-pazham kuzhakkal andaval um poriyum kuzhakkal are other popular dishes.[18]
Muttamala,taripola,pazham nirachatu (fried banana filled with grated coconut sugar or jaggery),unnakaya,jaayi pola,chatti pathiri andari pathiri are other local dishes.
Porridges such asmutaari kachiyatu (ragi porridge), are popular.[18]
Muttamala andmuttasirka are traditional sweets made using egg, wheremuttamala is yellow noodle-like made of egg-yolk andmuttasirka is white-colored, made ofegg whites. Typically,muttamala is spread over pieces ofmuttasirka, and they are further adorned with cherries.
Unnakkai (ഉന്നക്കായ്) also known asunnakaya,unnakka,kaai ada, andkaai porichathu, is a spindle-shaped sweet dessert made ofplantains. It is a famous Malabar snack often served at weddings,Iftar parties and other festivities.It is prepared by stuffing plantain with flavored coconut (and optionally with egg) and fried inghee.
Chatti pathiri is similar tolasagne where layers of spiced (masala) beef or chicken mixture are placed between layers of egg-dipped pancakes and baked in oven. It is especially served in Malabar Muslim weddings and reception parties.
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Thalassery biryani is a rice-based[A] dish blended with spices and chicken.[20] As it is the onlybiryani recipe inKerala cuisine,[21][B] it can also be calledKerala biryani.[22] Thalasserybiryani is the only type ofbiryani in the whole of Kerala which usesKaima rice for preparation.
Other types of Biriyani which uses the same rice and preparation methods but vary a little bit because of addition of some ingredients arekannur biriyani,malappuram biriyani,ponnani biriyani,kochi kayees biriyani,calicut biriyani,kochi mint biriyani andalapuzha biriyani.[23][24][25][26][27][28][29]
The main difference between Thalassery biryani andotherbiryanis is that it uses only Khaima/Jeerakasala rice—a short-grain, thin rice which is also calledbiryani rice inKerala. The dish does not usebasmati rice.
Biryani is an exotic dish ofMughal origin, but this variant is an indigenous recipe ofMalabar. It is a symbol of the cultural amalgamation of Mughal and Malabari cuisines. The Mughals brought the cuisine ofbiryani from Samarkand, and later variations ofbiryani developed in different parts of India.
Thalasserybiryani may have come to the region because of the influence of the Muslim rulers of Mysore and Arkot.[30]
Thalasserybiryani is a cultural embodiment and is reminiscent of foreign influences in Malabar; it is a reminder of the Mughal-Arab cultural influence in North Kerala due to the trade that lasted for many centuries before the 1900s and the emigration to the Middle East of locals from the 1970s onwards.[31]Thalasserysea port was an export trade centre for spices where a convergence of European, Arab and Malabar cultures occurred.[32]
The name "Thalassery biryani" (Malayalam:തലശ്ശേരി ബിരിയാണി,Tamil:தலச்சேரி பிரியாணி,Hindi:त लश्शेरि बिरयानी,Arabic:برياني تلشیری) originates from Thalassery, a town in the coastal Malabar region in North Kerala, India. The word "biryani" is derived from thePersian wordbiryān (n) (بریان) which means "fried" or "roasted".[33]Biryani was believed to have been invented in the kitchens of theMughal Emperors; Thalasserybiryani is one of many ways of preparingbiryani dishes. In the local dialect-Malayalam, there is a small variation in pronunciation. It is called "biri-yaa-ni" instead of "bir-yani".[20]
Thalasserybiryani is a strong indication of Islamic cultural influence in the region. The dish is traditionalMappila (Malabar Muslims) or Malabar cuisine. Ancient written records, except in a few treatises by historians, citing the origin of Mappilas are rare.
The stories about the conversion of the lastChera EmperorCheraman Perumal (Rama Varma Kulasekhara Perumal) to Islam from Mahodayapuram (Kodungallur) byMalik Deenar and the subsequent conversion of Perumal's sister and nephew residing inDharmadam (a village located north ofThalassery) are generally believed to be the origin of Islam in North Malabar.
Perumal is believed to have left Kerala from an erstwhile feudal province in the region namedPoyanad (Poya Nadu, "The province from whence he left") which lies in between the Thalassery and Kannurtaluks (governed by local chieftains namedRanduthara Achanmar before 1947).[34]
Perumal's nephew Mahabali, is believed to be the first[35]Ali Raja of theArakkal kingdom (the Sultanate ofLakshadweep and Cannanore), the sole Muslim kingdom of Kerala. The Arakkal kingdom controlled Dharmadam until the formation of Kerala state on 1 November 1956.[36]
The legend shows that these incidents had a significant impact in the introduction of Islamic culture to Thalassery.
In the ancient times, Thalassery—an erstwhile seaport in North Malabar—was geographically in the convergence point of three regional provinces,Chirakkal,Kottayam andKadathanad. It was also the end point of the "Perya pass" coming from the eastern hilly areas ofCoorg andWayanad making it an important trade center of spices in Malabar.[37]
Arab traders, Arkot rulers and the invasion ofSultanate of Mysore were other important factors which introduced and developed various Islamic culture in the region.[38]
During the Muslim holy month ofRamzan, Malabar dishes are made in abundant varieties.[39] The Muslim community of Malabar differs culturally; the lifestyle of the trader communities near the coastal towns differs from that of the farming communities in the inland and hilly areas.
Malabar cuisine varies throughout the region. In the modern era as communication improved exponentially, the differences of culture between coastal and hilly area became inconspicuous resulting in the amalgamation of food culture within the Muslim community in Malabar .[40]
The Mughlai cuisine had a significant influence upon Malabar recipes. Mughali recipes includingbiryani,kebab andnaan spread throughout India.[41] The ingredients included rice,maida, wheat and there was extensive use ofghee (clarified butter) and oils for preparation. Sweet delicacies were made fromjaggery (unrefined sugar).
Most of these dishes are non-vegetarian; chicken, mutton, lamb and beef are used but pork is not consumed due to religious regulations. Dishes range from mild to extremely spicy, and the dishes have distinct aromas.[42]
In Islamic food culture non-vegetarian dishes must behalal-compliant,[43][C] as required for Muslims by religious directive. Malabar Mappila dishes are preferred by some societies to be compliant with thehalal method of food processing.
Thalasserybiryani uses a unique, fragrant, small-grained, thin rice variety namedkaima[44] orjeerakasala [ml]. This rice, even though small in size, is different from the common small rice used in many Indian rice dishes.
Kaima/jeerakasala is not round, unlike other common smaller variants, and its fragrance is another distinct feature. Other kinds of rice that could be used arejeera rice,jeerakasemba or small Bangladeshibiryani rice.
The rice is white, short (small) grained, thin (not plump), but it is the aroma of these rice varieties which make then distinctive.[20][45] The recipes and cuisine of Thalasserybiryani have clear differences from otherbiryani variants.[46]
Kaima/jeerakasala rice does not need pre-soaking, water is only used to clean it. After adequate boiling no water should remain in the cooking dish as it should have been evaporated completely. This is a major difference from other rice preparation, in which water has to be drained off after cooking.[47]
Ghee rice is blended withmasala using thedum process (a method of cooking by sealing a lid tightly and placing hot charcoal on it). Thebiryani masala andghee rice are arranged in layers inside the dish. Meat is cooked withmasala on slow fire; it is layered with rice and the lid of the container is sealed withmaida dough or a loin cloth. Hot coal or charcoal is placed then above the lid.[48]
Thalasserybiryani is aPakki biryani. There are two types ofbiryani,"Pakki" and "Kacchi". InPakki style, theghee rice is added to the fully cooked chicken-masala mix and then cooked by thedum process, whereas inKacchi style theghee rice is added to the half-cooked chicken and then cooked till it is fully cooked or thedum process is used.[49]
Specially dressed chicken[D] is poured into themasala dish. The chicken is slowly cooked in themasala, and gets blended well with the juices ofmasala and spices.[20]
The Thalasserybiryani recipe has additional distinct features; unlike otherbiryanis it is not oily because of thedum process used for preparation. A unique blend of spices is added and thekaima rice also adds a unique flavour. No oil is used to make the chicken, which is added raw into themasala mix.[E]
For the recipe, see
Thalassery Biryani at the Wikibooks Cookbook subproject
Common side dishes served with Thalasserybiryani are coconut-mintchammandi (biryanichutney),South Asian pickle andthairu. After the meal, hot lime-black tea (known among the Muslim community assulaimani) is served; this adds a special taste after the main course and is an aid to digestion. Lime tea is a common "afters" in the Malabar region, especially with a rice-based main course.[68]
Fried Indiananchovy orsmelt[n 34] can be served as a starter if required and this is garnished with chopped onion, curry leaves andlime juice squeezed over it. Fried chicken in smaller pieces is also seen in some fiestas as accompaniments or as starters.
Daahashamani water, a medicated herbal water, is preferred to be used when drinking water withbiryani.[69]Daahashamani[n 35] is anayurvedic medicine and natural thirst reliever and digestive aid prepared by mixing dry ginger[n 36],cardamom,cloves,coriander seeds,mimosa catechu[n 37],sapanwood[n 38],vetiver[n 39],puncturevine[n 40] andsandal wood, it is usually available in local markets.[70][71]
Thalasserybiryani is popular and is often served in Malabar in weddings and other celebrations and parties, and is an unavoidable dish for the Muslim community.
Even thoughsadya is the traditional cuisine for Hindu weddings in the region, some Hindus and Christians often servebiryani, mainly because it is easier to prepare than other main course dishes and is a complete food that avoids the extra effort of making curry.[72][73][74][75][76]
Thalasserybiryani is rich in nutrients as it is a rice-spice dish. It is high in proteins and carbohydrates, and is also a source of minerals and vitamins. Nutritional value (according toU.S Dept. of Agriculture) of the spices is mentioned in the notes.
The dish contains unsaturated and saturated fats; the amount of saturated fat can be reduced by adjusting the quantities of hydrogenated vegetable oil (vanaspati) andghee.[1][77]
The Malayalam movieUstad Hotel is based on the preparation of Malabarbiryani. The film is about a restaurant that specialises in Malabar cuisines made without adulteration and based on traditional recipes. The film shows customers choosing the restaurant for its authentic dishes.
"April 2009 – We were at the first discussion meeting forKerala Cafe in Kochi. All the directors arrived and I was meeting most of them for the first time. At lunchtime, biryani packets arrived at the table. It smelt delicious and as I helped myself I asked "where is this biryani from?",.... in two years time we’d be creatingUstad Hotel together!" – Anjali Menon about the film.[78]
The fictional restaurant depicted in the film is a prominent destination for food lovers as the cuisine is based on genuine Malabar cuisine. The restaurant serves their flagship dish—Thalasserybiryani—to all customers who come there for the first time, so admiring the dish that whenever they come back to the city they choose this restaurant and order it again.[79]
The film shows the importance of fiesta in Malabar culture. Making the uniqueness of Malabarbiryani the theme of a blockbuster film shows how important the dish is in the Malabar region and throughout Kerala.[80]
Nutrient Value of Chicken biryani
The Hindu, Metro Plus Kochi
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