Personal information | |
---|---|
Nationality | English |
Born | (1943-12-12)12 December 1943[1] Huddersfield, England |
Died | 26 February 1998(1998-02-26) (aged 54)[1] Malham,North Yorkshire, England |
Climbing career | |
Type of climber | Traditional climbing,Free soloing |
Highest grade | |
Known for | Leading British rock climber of the mid-1970s |
First ascents |
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Pete Livesey (12 December 1943 to 26 February 1998), was an Englishrock climber who raised the standard of technical difficulty intraditional climbing in Britain during the early to mid-1970s. Livesey was renowned for the intensity and competitiveness he brought to the development of his sport as well as a mischievous sense of humour,[1] and during the mid-1970s, Livesey was regarded as Britain's leading rock climber.[2][3]
Livesey was known for his natural strength and stamina and was one of the first British rock climbers to develop climbing-specific training programs and the use of new indoor climbing walls.[1][2] Livesey came to national prominence with his 1974 ascent ofFootless Crow (E5 6b) at Goat Crag in theLake District, and later that year freed the bold line ofRight Wall (E5 6a) atDinas Cromlech, the site ofJoe Brown's 1952 classic climb,Cenotaph Corner.[1] Both of these routes were arguably the hardest traditional British climbing routes at the time and earned Livesey the title of Britain's best climber.[2][3]
Outside of Britain, Livesey made the second ascent of theTroll Wall in Norway, Europe's largest rock-face.[1] He free climbed severalaid climbing routes in the ItalianDolomites. Livesey impressed local climbers on rock routes in Austria'sKaiser Mountains.[1] In France, he showed locals how they could free up aid climbing routes and free climb on the long limestone walls of theGorge du Verdon; his most notable new route beingPiche Nibou.[1]
Livesey visited theYosemite Valley with his protege,Ron Fawcett, where on the first ascent ofCarbon Wall a climbing partner noted that unknown to the rest of the team, Livesey made a reconnaissance the day before the climb, abseiling down the 500-feet of the route to inspect the difficulties: "It was typical of Livesey: he was always one step ahead of everyone else, particularly Ron Fawcett - he had to find ways to outwit Ron because Ron really was the best climber in the world".[1] Fawcett would take on the mantle of Britain's leading climber from Livesey, from the late-1970s to the mid-1980s.[1][2]
After climbingGolden Mile in 1981, Livesey more or less quit rock climbing, turning to orienteering, and excelled at it by topping the M45 rankings; much as he had done in other sports he took part in.[1] He also had a remarkable record as afell runner, including four consecutive top ten placings in theKarrimor International Mountain Marathon.[1] Livesey directed the respected outdoor pursuits course at Ilkley and Bradford Community College and served on committees of theBritish Mountaineering Council.[1] Livesey died on 26 February 1998 from cancer, aged 54.[3]