Pateh (Persian:پته, IPA:pæte; alsoRomanized aspateh) is an Iranian traditionalneedleworkfolk art. It originated in and is largely associated withKerman province, where it is produced by women. A wide piece of wool fabric (ariz) is needleworked with colored thread.[1][2]
Pateh needlework is done insilk and with flourishes ofpaisley patterns. Popular designs include the cypress tree and the sun, both of which are traditional Persian symbols.[3]
Pateh originated and developed in Kerman province. Although its exact origin is unclear, it is assumed that it was influenced by Kermanrug weaving and thus does not predate the latter.[3] The oldest pateh known is dated to the 18th century.
Many valuable pateh pieces are held in art museums, particularly in Tehran. The oldest and most valuable pateh known is kept in the Astaneh Museum inMahan, Kerman and dates to 1294AH (1877 CE). It was created over the course of three years by twelve women. Governor Shahab al-Mulk ordered its creation so that it could be dedicated to the shrine ofShah Nimatullah Wali, adervish and poet who was born in Kerman.[3] The length of this work is 355 and its width is 210 cm, which was woven by Kermani women.[4] In Kerman province, there are currently more than 50,000 artisans employed in this sector.[5]
Pateh mainly consists of two parts: "shawl" (ariz) and thread. Theariz is a thick cloth, usually wool, and the thread that is worked into it is colored wool. Threads are dyed naturally, usually withhenna,pomegranate, madder or thewalnut's greenhusk.[3]
The patterns which are used in Pateh are normally divided into two main groups: "The Paisley" and "The Tree". One of the most popular patterns consists of four Paisleys on the corners and atoranj at the center. Sometimes flower bouquets are being used instead of paisley. Another common design is calledmihrab in which anarch is being made on the top of the pateh. However, one of the essential parts in a design for pateh is margin which is typically filled with flowers or different kinds of paisley.[3]