TheOregon Coast is acoastal region of the U.S. state ofOregon. It is bordered by thePacific Ocean to its west and theOregon Coast Range to the east, and stretches approximately 362 miles (583 km) from theCalifornia state border in the south to theColumbia River in the north. The region is not a specific geological, environmental, or political entity, and includes theColumbia River Estuary.
TheOregon Beach Bill of 1967 allows free beach access to everyone. In return for a pedestrian easement and relief from construction, the bill eliminates property taxes on private beach land and allows its owners to retain certain beach land rights.[1]
Traditionally, the Oregon Coast is regarded as three distinct sub–regions:[2]
The largest city isCoos Bay, population 16,700[4] inCoos County on the South Coast.U.S. Route 101 is the primary highway fromBrookings toAstoria and is known for its scenic overlooks of the Pacific Ocean. Over 80 state parks and recreation areas dot the Oregon Coast. However, only a few highways cross the Coast Range to the interior:US 30,US 26,OR 6,OR 22,US 20,OR 18,OR 34,OR 126,OR 38, andOR 42. OR 18 and US 20 are considered among the dangerous roads in the state.[5]
The Oregon Coast includesClatsop County,Tillamook County,Lincoln County, westernLane County, westernDouglas County, Coos County, andCurry County.
The Oregon Coast is divided into three different regions based on their geological formations: the North Coast, Central Coast, and South Coast. Three primary landforms appear along its shoreline: sea cliffs, beaches, andstacks.[6] Minor land variation, city size, and socioeconomic differences between the North and Central regions cause division between them to be made along geological lines.[6]
The North Coast, which stretches from the Columbia River to Cascade Head, possesses longer stretches of unbroken beach (due to silt deposits washed southwards from the Columbia River), a higher concentration of logging zones,[citation needed] and larger, but less frequentsandbar-enclosed bays. Astoria serves as a staging ground for ships entering and leaving the Columbia River, because of the dangerousColumbia Bar. Ships wishing to make the passage require the aid of specially trainedbar pilots. Along the coast are the cities ofSeaside,Cannon Beach andTillamook. Seaside and Cannon Beach lie directly on the Pacific Ocean, whereas Tillamook lies inland alongTillamook Bay. Because of the low lands that exist on this region of coast,flooding is an annual problem, especially in the winter, when storms push in from the North Pacific. Tillamook is particularly affected by these yearly floods, because of its location on a majorfloodplain. Sandstone cliffs occur rather sporadically in this region. This is due to relatively slow uplift rates as well as fairly constantsediment wash from the Columbia River. Future uplift from the subduction of theJuan de Fuca Plate will eventually create sandstone cliffs similar to those found further south and north. The North Oregon Coast is also a part of theGraveyard of the Pacific.[6]
The weather on the North Coast is moderate. The average low in the winter is just under 40 °F (4 °C), while the high temperature is just above 50 °F (10 °C). The average high reaches its peak in early September at 70 °F (21 °C). The most rain occurs in November and December averaging over 11 inches (280 mm) each month. July and August are the driest averaging under 2 inches (51 mm) of rain each month. Most days are cloudy or partly cloudy throughout the year. The summer has the most sun with approximately half the days sunny or partly cloudy.
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The Central Coast, which extends from Cascade Head to Reedsport, while similar to the North Coast, possesses fewer sandy beaches, more sea cliffs and terraces, and a greater number of bays. Several small urban areas exist in this region. Among these are the cities ofLincoln City,Depoe Bay,Newport,Waldport, andYachats. Because the usable lands of the region are squeezed between the mountains and the ocean, most urban areas are relatively small[citation needed] but are still larger than those of the South Coast region. The southernmost area of Central coast is the intermediary zone for this region and the more mountainous South Coast region. Exposed sandstone cliffs are also common along the beaches and highway. Local sandstones of the Central Coast were uplifted during theNeogene Era. Higher layers of exposed sandstone are often varying shades of orange, and are often quite soft to the touch, often being very brittle, and relatively easily eroded. Lower exposed layers, though less frequent, reveal harder sandstone deposits. Unlike the higher layers, they are often gray-brown in color and hard in comparison. This lower sandstone often breaks off in large, squared chunks.[6]
The weather on the central coast is similar to that of the north coast except the frequency of sunny or partly cloudy days is higher in the summer, approaching 75%.
The South Coast region, which extends from Reedsport to the California border, is distinct from the North and Central Coast regions because of its mountainous nature, due totectonic uplift andterraneaccretion in ancient times. Much of the coastline in this region is made up of sea cliffs and miles of beaches. Among the landscape of the region exists theOregon Dunes. There are seven incorporated cities on the south coast: Reedsport,North Bend, Coos Bay,Bandon,Port Orford,Gold Beach, andBrookings.Cape Blanco, which is approximately 6.4 miles (10.3 km) north of Port Orford, is the westernmost point in Oregon. Cape Blanco extends further west than any point of land in thecontiguous United States (lower 48 states) exceptCape Alava, inWashington.[7] Though the landforms of the region are relatively consistent, the South Coast shows a change in ecology. It is in this region that thewestern redcedar andSitka spruce forests give way to the more southerlycoast redwood,Port Orford cedar, andDouglas-fir forests, which also include the northern extent ofOregon Myrtle trees (aka California Bay Laurel).[6]
The weather on the south coast is similar to that of the north and central coasts except the frequency of sunny or partly cloudy days is higher in the summer, approaching 90%.
Because of the Oregon Coast's physical complexity, many different species of plant and animal can be found in the region, both terrestrial and marine in nature. However, past human interaction has caused a decline in several species of animal along the coast, such as thesea otter.[8] Strict regulations as well as modern human aid has seen a return of some species in recent years.
The Oregon Coast is the location of theOregon Coast National Wildlife Refuge Complex, which consists of six wildlife refuges, covering 371 acres (1.50 km2), spread over a distance of 320 miles (515 km).[9]
Due to several factors, including climate, weather, and terrain, there is a great variety of plants within the coast region. In some areas, large trees are uncommon. This is because severe winter storms and poor soil limit the growing height of many species.Shore pine(Pinus contorta subsp.contorta) are common in these areas. However several species offir,pine, andcedar can be found, including a few endemic species, such as thePort Orford cedar(Chamaecyparis lawsoniana). Because of this,logging has been a historically viable trade for the region. In the North Coast region near Astoria, and in Lincoln County, large tracts of land are second and third generation woodland, having been logged and replanted in the past.
Because of the salt carried inland by constant onshore winds, only the hardiest varieties of small plant can thrive close to shore.Coastal strawberry andPacific silverweed are common along the coast due to their reproductive advantages and salt tolerance.[10]
Like many forested regions of the western United States and Canada, many large species of animal can be found in the woods of the region. Most common are theRoosevelt elk andblack-tailed deer, as well asbobcats andNorth American cougar. All four species, though common now, were uncommon in the past, having moved more heavily into the region with the beginning of timber harvest. Likewise, smaller species, includingnutrias andVirginia opossum can also be found, as well as theTownsend's mole, which inhabits many lowland and floodplain areas.[11]
The marine ecology of the Oregon Coast is some of the most diverse in the world. More than 29 species of marine mammals make their home on the Oregon Coast, including several species ofseal, including theSteller's sea lion andharbor seal, as well as the less commonnorthern elephant seal andCalifornia sea lion.[12] TheSea Lion Caves near Florence, and the bay front in Newport are the best places to see Steller's sea lions and harbor seals, though they can be observed in many other places. Seal pups can sometimes be seen on sandy beaches resting. Signs are often posted on beaches warning of this, as the law prohibits disturbing them. Formerly, populations ofsea otter could be found on the coast. However, fur hunters have wiped out the Oregon populations. Prior to the sighting in February 2009 in Depoe Bay, no sea otters had been sighted in over 103 years.[13] Occasionally, largeHumboldt Squid wash up onto the beaches after following warm currents which dissipate leaving the squid to die of hypothermia.[14]
Several species of whale can be observed in the waters near shore, especially during migration in late December and late March, such asgray whale,orca, andhumpback whale.Harbor porpoises are also relatively common.[15] Because of this, whale watching is a common tourist attraction along the coast. Tour boats often take passengers on whale watching tours, though it is possible to do so from shore. It is sometimes the case that whale carcasses are beached on Oregon shores. One such beaching, which occurred near Florence in November, 1970, was handled by blowing it up using dynamite. This has become the well-knownexploding whale incident.[16]
Tidepools, which occur frequently along Oregon's rocky shores, are unique, contained ecosystems housing up to many hundreds of species of animal.Red,green, andbrown algae are common sights. Many species ofinvertebrates can also be found in these coastal tidepools, and includesponges,sea anemones,mussels,sea stars,limpets,crabs,shrimp,barnacles,sea urchins, andsea cucumbers.[17]Sunset Bay State Park, near Coos Bay, and Strawberry Hill, near Yachats, are among the largest collections of tidepools and are popular places for exploring them.
Also common along the coast arekelp forests and rock reefs. Both areas harbor much of Oregon's marine life, including many species of fish, such as the numerous species ofrockfish,flatfish, andgreenlings. Because these areas provide a shelter from oceanic currents, these zones share many invertebrate species with the onshore tidal zone. Because of the rich diversity of life, most animal species along the Oregon coast depend on these keystone zones for survival.[18]
Many varieties of birds make their home on the Oregon Coast. Because of the variety of birds found in the area, bird watching is a common pastime. Birds along the Oregon Coast can be divided into four categories:
The Oregon coastal waters are known to have 16 species of shark present:[19]
There are one or two shark bites reported along the Oregon coast each year, mostly boats and surfing boards being tasted. Every few years—a total of 25 since 1900—a human is bitten.[20] Every Oregon victim has survived. The last was Joseph Tanner, October 10, 2016.[21]
It is generally accepted that the firstindigenous peoples arrived in the region around 11,000–13,000 years ago, likely drawn by the rich natural resources of the area. However, very little is known about these early peoples, as very few archeological sites exist from before 3,500 years ago.[22] Several tribes and language families would eventually form along the coast. Major groups included theClatsop,Tillamook,Alsea,Siuslaw,Coos, andCoquille. The lifestyles of these tribes were very similar and sometimes interlinked, with the defining differences being the languages they spoke.[23] Because of the abundance of food in the region, most settlements were permanent. Many of the tribes subsisted primarily on seafoods such as clams,salmon, andseals, as well as berries.[24]
European exploration of the Oregon Coast began in the 18th century as Spanish mariners sailed northward from Mexico to explore and later stake claim to the region, led by explorerVasco Núñez de Balboa's claim of the entire Pacific and shores in the name of the Spanish Crown. The earliest expedition recorded along the Pacific Northwest coast, however, was led by SpaniardJuan José Pérez Hernández aboard the sloopSantiago in 1774. Pérez's findings were kept a secret and much of the credit for his findings went to later explorers. Pérez's expedition was followed soon after by the 1775 expedition led byBruno de Heceta andJuan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, in which Pérez served as pilot. These further explorations led to many discoveries along the Oregon and Washington Coasts.Heceta Head was later named after Bruno de Heceta.[25]
At the same time as the Spanish expeditions, British mariners also began to explore the region, led by explorersSir Francis Drake in the 16th century and later byJames Cook andGeorge Vancouver in the 18th century. British expeditions made many discoveries in the region. Drake called the areaNew Albion, though the exact location of New Albion remains a mystery. Vancouver would make the most extensive explorations of the region during his expeditions.[25]
Meanwhile, American CaptainRobert Gray, aboard the sloopWashington, visited the Oregon Coast in his 1788 voyage to the west coast of the Americas. In August, 1788, Gray attempted to gain entrance to the mouth of the Columbia. However, Gray accidentally grounded theWashington on a sand bar, and the ship was attacked by natives, in which one crew member was killed and the mate wounded. Gray returned in 1792 aboard theColumbia, where he met with British Captain Vancouver off theStrait of Juan de Fuca. Gray mentioned the river to Vancouver, which Gray had named the Columbia. Vancouver quietly dismissed this claim by Gray, thinking that the Columbia was a part of the Juan de Fuca Strait. Vancouver was loath to later admit Gray's correct discovery of the Columbia River.[25]
In 1803, with the successful purchase of theLouisiana Territory from France, PresidentThomas Jefferson ordered an expedition to the west coast, which was led by CaptainMeriwether Lewis andWilliam Clark. TheLewis and Clark Expedition reached the Oregon Coast in early winter of 1805, where they builtFort Clatsop near present-day Astoria. During their stay at Fort Clatsop, theCorps of Discovery made many observations about the landscape and local life, as well as establishing relations with the local Clatsop Indians. The expedition began their return trip to Washington D.C. in March 1806.[26] The Lewis and Clark Expedition would have long-lasting effects for the Pacific Northwest and began the settlement of the U.S. west coast, even though heavy settlement of the Oregon Coast would not come until half a century later.
A few years later, in 1811, employees ofJohn Jacob Astor'sPacific Fur Company set up a trading post at the mouth of the Columbia River and set up the first permanent U.S. settlement – Astoria. However, the settlement was not as profitable as Astor had hoped it would be. It was sold to the BritishNorth West Company in 1812 and became part of itsColumbia District. In 1838,Charles Wilkes, on a voyage commissioned by U.S. Congress, landed on the Oregon Coast and raised the American flag. British claims were slowly lost with the increasing number of pioneers traveling to Oregon along theOregon Trail, and 8 years later, theOregon Treaty was signed with Britain, ending the half-century claims to Oregon and the Oregon Coast by the British.[27][28]
After Oregon attained statehood in 1859 and the completion of railroads throughout the Coast Range, development of land quickly began along many of the Coasts bays and rivers.Logging andcommercial fishing soon became the primary industries in the area, and several ports were built to facilitate both industries. In 1870, the first lighthouse atCape Blanco was built and was soon followed by both theYaquina Bay Light andYaquina Head Light in 1871 and 1873, respectively. The last Coast Guard operated light,Cape Arago Light, was built in 1934.
However, in 1874,Oregon State Land Board began to sell publictidelands to private landowners.[29] Soon, resorts were built alongside the beaches in towns such as Seaside, Newport, andRockaway Beach. The completion of railroads from the primary population centers in theWillamette Valley, the beginnings of tourism started along the coast.[30]
In 1911, governorOswald West was elected on the promise to reclaim Oregon's beaches as public land. Though the legislature favored the privatization of these lands, West was able to make an argument for public ownership based on the need for transportation, and in 1913, theOregon legislature declared the entire length of the ocean shore from the Columbia to California as a state highway.[29][30] Legislators also created theState Highway Commission, which began the construction of U.S. Route 101 along the coast. TheParks and Recreation Department, a branch of the highway commission, bought land for36 state parks along the coastal highway, an average of one every 10 miles (16 km). With the completion of the highway-and-parks system, coastal tourism skyrocketed.[30] Recent years have seen a drop in both the logging andfishing industries, due mainly to changes in the U.S. economy as well as changes in regulations governing the harvest of fish and timber.
Oregon's public lands claim was challenged in 1966, when a motel owner fenced off beach area for the private use of his guests.[30][31] Responding to citizen complaints, state legislators put forward theOregon Beach Bill, proposing to reestablish the beaches' status as public land. Concerns about private property rights threatened the bill's passage.[29][32] In response, GovernorTom McCall staged a dramatic media event on May 13, 1967, flying two helicopters to the beach with a team of surveyors and scientists. The ensuing media coverage resulted in overwhelming public demand for the bill, which passed and was signed by McCall on July 6, 1967.[29][31]
The Beach Bill declares that all "wet sand" within 16 feet (4.9 m) vertical feet of the low tide line belongs to the state of Oregon.[33] In addition, it recognizes publiceasements of all beach areas up to the line of vegetation, regardless of underlying property rights. The public has "free and uninterrupted use of the beaches," and property owners are required to seek state permits for building and other uses of the ocean shore.[34] While some parts of the beach remain privately owned, state and federal courts have upheld Oregon's right to regulate development of those lands and preserve public access.[29][35]
Due to its scenery, wildlife, and history, the Oregon Coast is a popular travel destination.Hiking,sport fishing,cycling,kite flying,scuba diving,surfing,sandboarding, andboating are common activities for visitors to the region. Historic areas, such as Fort Clatsop,Battle Rock, and Oregon'slighthouses are all popular sites for visitors. The Oregon Coast is also known for its scenic areas, such asCape Perpetua, Cape Blanco andCape Arago. Likewise, each region has its own distinct draws in addition to those found throughout the state, such as theAstoria Column in Astoria, theOregon Coast Aquarium in Newport, andMount Emily outside Brookings. The South Coast's commercial airport[36] is theSouthwest Oregon Regional Airport in North Bend[37] and the Central Coast is served by theNewport Municipal Airport.
Oregon's beaches are popular destinations for visitors.Horse riding,clam digging, andsurfing are popular activities. Certain beaches are host to events such as Seaside's Beach Volleyball Tournament and finish for the Hood to Coast race or Lincoln City'sglass float hunt. Because of many headlands along the Oregon Coast, beaches vary in length from dozens of miles to less than a quarter of a mile. Though less common,surf fishing also occurs along sections of the beach. However, not all Oregon beaches are sand beaches. Large surf-smoothed stones are common and several stone beaches exist. Some beaches are also shrinking, due partially to human interactions and partly to invasive species of plant such asEuropean Beachgrass.[38]
Another popular destination for visitors is Oregon's historic lighthouses, most of which date to before 1900. Because the Oregon and Washington coasts have been traditionally thought of as some of themost dangerous seas in the world, several lighthouses and alightship were commissioned to aid sailors in navigating. Of the original 12 lights, nine are still in use. However, in recent years, two private lights, Pelican Bay Light and Cleft of the Rock Light have been built, with permission from theCoast Guard. Both lights, along with Cape Arago Light, are private property.[39]
The Oregon Coast is also host to many recreational activities. Hiking, camping, sport fishing, and cycling are the most common activities and are ubiquitous to the Oregon Coast. Sport fishing has traditionally been the primary outdoor recreational activity along the Oregon Coast, and is a major industry in several of Oregon's port cities, especially Astoria, Newport, and Coos Bay. Because of this, Oregon has strict regulations concerning the harvest of fish for sport.[40] Charter boats usually take groups out for half day and full day fishing trips forChinook salmon,Coho salmon, andPacific halibut.[41][42]
However, several other activities, many of which are more local than others, take place throughout the coast region of the state, several of which occur in theOregon Dunes National Recreation Area. Most common areAll-terrain vehicles and sandboarding. Many equipment rental and specialty shops exist to cater to these activities. Horse riding is also a common pastime along many beaches and dunes along the coast, and several horse trails exist in the nearby forests.[43]
Surfing andbodyboarding are also common sports along the beaches of the Oregon Coast. Both occur nearly year-round, regardless of weather or water temperature.[44]
The coast is home to several excellent golf courses. Among them is theBandon Dunes ranked byGolf Digest as the 6th best public golf course in the U.S in 2015/2016,[45] up from 7th in 2009[46]
Many historical sites dot the Oregon Coast. The most prominent is that ofFort Clatsop outside of Astoria, which was the site of theLewis and Clark Expeditions winter stay on the Oregon Coast in 1805–1806, as well as the nearbyPeter Iredale which was grounded on theClatsop Spit 100 years later in September 1906. However, overone hundred and nineteen–one hundred and twenty years of deterioration have destroyed much of the original ship. Now only a small portion remains above the sand. Both are part of theLewis and Clark National Historical Park along withFort Stevens.
Further south outside Tillamook sits theTillamook Air Museum, which is housed in one of the two formermilitary blimphangars of the formerNaval Air Station Tillamook. The structure was originally known as "Hangar B" and was part of a pair of hangars built by theU.S. Navy in 1942.[47] "Hangar A" was destroyed by a fire in 1992. However, the concrete pilings that held the massive hangar doors erect still stand.
Along the coast just south of Cape Arago are several parks that were formerly the location of early homesteaders, as well as the former Seven Devil's Trail. The homesteaders eventually abandoned their claims in favor of living closer to the nearby rural villages and towns. Today, nothing remains of these small farms and ranches, though several state parks mark their locations. However, south at Cape Blanco sits thePatrick Hughes House. The Hughes House is now a part ofCape Blanco State Park.
Located in Port Orford just south of Cape Blanco is the famous Battle Rock, which was the site of a major battle between local natives and members of an 1851 expedition led by CaptainWilliam Tichenor in order to begin railroad construction. Today, visitors can climb Battle Rock, though this is discouraged as frequent climbing has begun to erode the sandstone seastack. Also in Port Orford is thePort Orford Heads State Park, which is the location of the original Coast Guard lifeboat station. The station is now a museum for the historic station and maritime history, including the 1942Lookout Air Raid.
Finally, Oregon has the distinction of being the only U.S. state (Hawaii and Alaska did not attain statehood until 1959) to receive hostile action during World War II, being both shelled and bombed.
The first attack, which took place the night of June 21, 1942, occurred at Fort Stevens when aJapanese submarineI-25 surfaced offshore, and fired 17 rounds at the fort. However, Fort Stevens took no damage in the attack. The second attack took place two and a half months later when the I-25 surfaced off Cape Blanco, the night of September 9, 1942. Launching a small"Glen"seaplane, and using the Cape Blanco Light as a guide, pilotNobuo Fujita and copilotOkuda Shoji dropped a series ofincendiary bombs in the forests atMount Emily with the intention of starting several forest fires in the area. Though the fires did not become the major infernos that the Japanese intended, the bomb site is now on theNational Register of Historic Places as theWheeler Ridge Japanese Bombing Site.[48][49] Fujita returned in 1962 and gave his family's 400-year-oldsword to the city of Brookings. He was made an honorary citizen of Brookings days before his death in September 1997. His sword is now on display at the Brookings Public Library.[49]
The coast is Oregon's top tourist destination.[50] In the mid-1980s, the coast's economy was dependent onnatural resources. Limits placed on logging and fishing caused further decline. As of the late 2000s, tourism and retirement have provided economic growth.[51] As of 2006, roughly 210,000 people live on the Oregon Coast. The economy is still dependent on natural resources, but the largest contributions to personal income are retirement based and "unidentified". The top three industries are timber, fishing, and tourism. The coast is poorer than the state average, with average income per capita $24,112 vs. $32,812.[52]
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