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Lead climbing (orleading) is a technique inrock climbing where the 'lead climber'clips their rope to theclimbing protection as they ascend apitch of theclimbing route, while their 'second' (or 'belayer') remains at the base of the routebelaying the rope to protect the 'lead climber' in the event that they fall. The term is used to distinguish between the two roles, and the greater effort and increased risk, of the role of the 'lead climber'.
Leading a climb is in contrast withtop roping a climb, where even though there is still a 'second' belaying the rope, the 'lead climber' faces little or no risk in the event of a fall and does not need to clip into any protection as the rope is alreadyanchored to the top of the route (i.e. if they fall off, they just hang from the rope). Leading a climbing route is acore activity in rock climbing, and mostfirst ascents andfirst free ascents are from leading.
Lead climbing can be performed asfree climbing, in either atraditional climbing or asport climbing format — leading a traditional climb is a much riskier and physically demanding exercise for the climber.Competition lead climbing is a sport-climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport ofcompetition climbing. Lead climbing can also be performed asaid climbing. The term is not generally applied tofree solo climbing, as the free solo climber is already alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of 'leader' from the 'second'.
Leading a route requires a 'lead climbing pair'. When ascending a route, the 'lead climber' of the pair clips their rope into theclimbing protection as they progress up apitch on a givenclimbing route. If they are leading atraditional climbing route, the 'lead climber' must arrange and insert 'temporary climbing protection' as they climb. If they are leading asport climbing route, the climbing protection is already installed via pre-drilledbolts, into which the 'lead climber' only needs to attachquickdraws.[1][2][3] Leading a traditional route is, therefore, a much riskier and physically demanding undertaking than leading a sport climbing route of the samegrade.[4]
Aside from the specific additional risks of traditional climbing, every 'lead climber' faces the specific risk of fallingtwice the distance to their last point of climbing protection — i.e. if the 'lead climber' was 3-metres above their last point of protection, then in a fall, they will fall over 6-metres, thus the rope starts to brake 3-metresbelow their last point of protection.[4] This aspect makes leading a more physically demanding activity thantop roping where the lead climber is immediately held by the top-rope upon falling.[1][2]
Leading a climb also requires good communication between the 'lead climber' and the 'second' who isbelaying. In particular, the 'lead climber' will want to avoid the 'second' holding the rope too tightly, which creates "rope drag" that acts as a downward force on the 'lead climber'. However, where the 'lead climber' feels that a fall is imminent, they will want the 'second' to quickly "take in" any slack in the rope to minimize the length of any fall. Once the 'lead climber' has reached the top of the route (or pitch on amulti-pitch climbing route), they will then create a fixedanchor and belay the 'second' from above as the 'second' climbs up, removing any temporary climbing protection that the 'leader' had inserted earlier; note that the 'second' is not themselves 'lead climbing' but are in effect, top roping (e.g. if they fall they will just hang from the rope).[1][2]
The act, and drive, tolead a climb is related to the definition of what is afirst ascent (FA), orfirst free ascent (FFA) in the traditional and sport climbing formats. Thegrades assigned to traditional and sport climbing routes are based on the climberleading the route, and not top roping it. If a climber wants to test themselves at a specific technical grade or set a newgrade milestone, then they mustlead the route.[1][2]
Before the arrival of sport climbing in the early-1980s, traditional climbers frowned upon FFAs where the 'lead climber' had practiced the route beforehand on a top rope (calledheadpointing), or worse still, practiced thecrux moves from a hanging fixed rope (calledhangdogging). The arrival of sport climbing led to the development of theredpoint as the accepted definition of an FFA, which includes the practices of headpointing and hangdogging. Where a 'lead climber' can complete a route first-time and without any prior knowledge, it is called anonsight (or aflash if they had prior knowledge) and this is still considered the most desirable form of ascent, and is separately recorded ingrade milestones andclimbing guidebooks.[5][6]
Aside from the specific risks involved inplacing the temporary protection equipment while leading traditional climbing routes (i.e. and making sure that it won't fall out in the event of a fall), the 'lead climber' needs to manage several other general risks when they are leading a climbing route, such as:[1][2][4]
Regardless of the particular type of format that the 'lead climber' is undertaking (i.e. traditional, sport, or aid), they will require aharness attached to one end of adynamickernmantle rope (usually via afigure-eight knot). Their 'second'—who will bebelaying—will use a mechanicalbelay device that is clipped into the climbing rope and which 'pays-out' the rope as needed as the 'lead climber' ascends the route, but which can immediately grip the rope tightly in the event that the 'lead climber' falls.[1][2]
Where the 'lead climber' is following a traditional climbing format, they will need to carry an extensive range of protective equipment (often referred to as a 'climbing rack' and is usually worn around the waist being attached to theclimbing harness) such asnuts,hexcentrics andtricams (known as "passive" protection), and/orspring-loaded camming devices (or "friends", and known as "active protection"). Where the 'lead climber' is following a sport climbing format, they only need to carryquickdraws (which they will also attach to their climbing harness) that they will clip into the pre-drilled bolts along the sport route.[1][2][9]
Someindoor climbing walls provide in-situ mechanicallead auto belay devices enablig the climber to lead the route but belayed by the device. Typical versions belay the lead climber from above so the climber is essentiallytop roping the route, and does not need to carry any climbing protection.[10][11]
Longer climbing routes (e.g. as inbig wall climbing), are usually led in series of multiplepitches of circa 35–50 metres (115–164 ft) in length. In multi-pitch leading, the two climbers can swap the roles of 'lead climber' and 'second' on successive pitches. The 'second' needs to be comfortable working from ahanging belay, and both need to be familiar with the process for swapping between roles safely and efficiently.[12] Given that average pitch length will be longer, and that the weather potentially poorer, both climbers need to communicate clearly, and know theclimbing commands.[13]
On long but easier routes, the climbing pair may usesimul climbing, whereby both climberssimultaneously ascend the route. The 'lead climber' acts like on a normal lead climb, however, the 'second' does not remain belaying in a static position, but instead also climbs, removing/unclipping the protection equipment of the 'lead climber'. Both climbers are tied to the rope at all times, and both make sure that there are several points of protection in situ between them. Simul climbing is performed on terrain both climbers are comfortable on, as any fall is serious; often the stronger climber goes second.[14]
The arrival of the safer format ofsport climbing in the early 1980s led to a rapid development in the related sport ofcompetition lead climbing.[15] The first major international lead climbing competition was held in Italy atSportroccia in 1985.[15] By the late 1990s, competitive lead climbing was joined bycompetition bouldering, andcompetition speed climbing in what was to become the annualIFSC Climbing World Cup and biennialIFSC Climbing World Championships.[15] Competition lead climbing first appeared as an event in the2020 Summer Olympics formen's andwomen's medal events; it was structured in a format consisting of a single "combined" event of lead, bouldering and speed climbing.[16][17]
