Clockwise from top: ThePliva Waterfall, Panoramic view of easternMaršala Tita area fromJajce Fortress, Jajce Fortress and ancient area, Meadow Gate andOmer Bey's native house and the view of Šejh Mustafe area.
Jajce Mithraeum is a temple dedicated to the God of the Sun,Mithra. The god was worshiped and the cult spread to other parts of theRoman Empire throughout the Mediterranean basin by slaves and merchants from theOrient, and by Roman soldiers who came into contact with the followers of the cult in the East. The temple is dated to the 2nd century AD and was renovated sometime during the 4th century AD. This particular Mithraeum is renowned as one of the best preserved in Europe. It was discovered accidentally during the construction of a private house. The temple is protected by glass walls so that visitors can see inside even without entering the facility. However, for entry and a closer look, visitors need to give notice of their visit in advance by contacting the Ethnological Museum of Jajce.
Hrvoje Vukčić Hrvatinić, at the height of his power, founded the town of Jajce,[3] and built a fortress on the site of an earlier fort. It is assumed that one of the locations of his death could be Jajce, where he built his tomb, known as theCatacombs of Jajce. However, another location of his burial is possibly believed to beZgošća nearKakanj, where theZgošća Stećak, a burialmegalith, had been found.
Jajce was first built in the 14th century and served as the capital of the independentKingdom of Bosnia during its time. The first references to the name of Jajce in written sources is from the year 1396, but the fortress already existed before this. The town has gates as fortifications, as well as a castle with walls which lead to the various gates around the town. About 10–20 kilometres from Jajce lies theKomotin Castle and town area which is older but smaller than Jajce. It is believed the town of Jajce was established after Komotin was struck by theBlack Death.[citation needed]
Jajce was the final residence of the last Bosnian kingStjepan Tomašević where he received the royal crown fromPope Pius II as "by grace of God, the King of Serbs, Bosnia, Littoral, Hum, Dalmatia, Croats, etc.".[4] The king was slain in the town after the Ottoman conquests.[4]
TheOttomans besieged the town and executed Tomašević in 1463, but held it only for six months. What was left of the Kingdom of Bosnia was annexed by theKingdom of Hungary, who looked to seize the opportunity to hinder the Ottoman expansion in theBalkans. With the Bosnian King's death, an opportunity arose for the Hungarian KingMatthias Corvinus to try and capture Bosnia before the Ottomans, which consequentially lead to theSiege of Jajce and suppression of the Ottoman forces' advancement. This derailed Ottoman plans for nearly half a century.[5]: 36
Skenderbeg Mihajlović besieged Jajce again in 1501, which, although the siege was unsuccessful, marked the approaching demise of the town and the Hungarian rule in Bosnia. Mihajlović was repelled byIvaniš Korvin, who was assisted by theZrinski,Frankopan, Karlović and Cubor families.[citation needed]in 1520Petar Keglević became theBan of Jajce.[7]
In 1866, aGlagolitic inscription was discovered on the road from Jajce toBrod with the text "ⰂⰀ ⰂⰓⰋⰮⰅ ⰖⰈⰮⰑⰆⰐⰑⰃ ⰍⰐⰅⰈⰀ ⰗⰅⰓⰅⰐⰜⰀ ⰁⰅⰓⰋⰔⰀⰎⰋⰛⰀ", "In the time of knez Ferenac Berisalić", referring toFranjo Berislavić [hr] Doborski/Grabarski of theBerislavić family of Grabarje, who was Ban of Jajce on multiple occasions around the turn of the 16th century.[8] Its discovery was first published in 1885 byMile Magdić [hr][9] or possibly earlier, but was little known except to historians of that family such asJosip Koprivčević,[10] because Jajce was so far away from where most Glagolitic inscriptions were made.[11] It has appeared in several lists of Glagolitic inscriptions,[12][13] but the inscription itself is thought to have be lost.[14]
At the beginning of theBosnian War, Jajce was inhabited by people from all ethnic groups, and was situated at a junction between areas of theBosnian Serb majority to the north,Bosniak majority areas to the southeast andBosnian Croat majority areas to the southwest.
At the end of April and the beginning of May 1992, almost all ethnic Serbs fled or were expelled to the territory underRepublika Srpska control. In the summer of 1992, theArmy of Republika Srpska (VRS) started heavy bombardment of the town. Jajce was defended by Croat (HVO) and Bosniak (ARBiH) forces with two separate command lines, but fell to Serb forces on 29 October. Retreating forces were joined by a column of 30,000 to 40,000 civilian refugees, stretching 16 kilometres (10 miles) towardsTravnik, under VRS sniping and shelling. Shrader defined it as "the largest and most wretched single exodus" of the Bosnian War.[16]
Bosniak refugees resettled in Central Bosnia, while Croats moved either to Croatia or closer to the Croatian border due to rising tensions. By November 1992 the pre-war population of Jajce had shrunk from 45,000 to just several thousand.[17]
In the following weeks, all mosques and Catholic churches in Jajce were demolished. It is presumed that the Orthodox church was demolished on 10–11 October by members of the so-called "Krajina Brigade" within the Army of BiH. The VRS converted the town'sFranciscan monastery into a prison and its archives, museum collections and artworks were looted; the monastery church was completely destroyed. By 1992, all religious buildings in Jajce had been destroyed, except for two mosques whose perilous positioning on a hilltop had made them unsuitable for demolition.[18]
Jajce was re-captured together withBosanski Petrovac in mid-September 1995 duringOperation Mistral 2 by theCroatian Defence Council (HVO),[19] after VRS forces had evacuated the Serb population. Jajce became part of theFederation of Bosnia and Herzegovina according to theDayton Agreement. Returning Bosniaks were at first blocked by a mob of Croats in early August 1996, which according to US diplomatRobert Gelbard was personally led by convicted Bosnian Croat war criminalDario Kordić. Bosniak refugees were able to return peacefully only a few weeks after, being accompanied by many more. Dario Kordić surrendered and was flown tothe Hague following political pressure on Zagreb, particularly by the United States.[20]
The old Jajcewalled city core, including thewaterfall, and other individual sites outside the walled city perimeter, such as theJajce Mithraeum, is designated asThe Natural and Architectural Ensemble of Jajce and proposed for the inscription into the UNESCO'sWorld Heritage Sitelist. The bid for the inscription is currently placed on theUNESCO Tentative list.[22][23]
Jajce was a popular tourist destination in Yugoslav times, mostly due to the historical importance of the AVNOJ session. Tourism has restarted, and its numbers (20-55,000 tourists in 2012–2013) are relevant in relation to the municipality's population (25,000). Tourists from across the former Yugoslavia still make up most of the visitors to Jajce, but Middle Eastern tourists have also increased since the early 2000s. Organised school trips also make up a significant portion of tourists. Spring and autumn are the main tourist seasons.[5]: 40
The town is famous for its beautiful 22-metre (72 ft) highwaterfall where thePliva River meets the riverVrbas. It was damaged during theBosnian War by high waters and severe flooding, as the area of theJajce-1 Hydroelectric Power Station was at the battlefront and out of service; the sudden rise in water levels and discharge created a tidal wave which damaged thetravertine body of the waterfall.
Jajce is situated in the mountains; there is beautiful countryside near the town, rivers such as the Vrbas and Pliva, and lakes such as Pliva lake, which is also a popular destination for the local people and tourists. Not far from Jajce there are mountains that are over 2,000 metres high, such asVlašić near the town ofTravnik. Travelling through the mountain roads to the town may not be pleasant for some visitors, because the roads are in poor condition, but the scenery is picturesque.[24][25][26]