The provincial capital,St. John's, is located on the southeastern coast of the island;Cape Spear, just south of the capital, is theeasternmost point of North America, excluding Greenland. It is common to consider all directly neighbouring islands such asNew World,Twillingate,Fogo andBell Island to be 'part of Newfoundland' (i.e., distinct from Labrador). By that classification, Newfoundland and its associated small islands have a total area of 111,390 square kilometres (43,008 sq mi).[9]
According to 2006 officialCensus Canada statistics, 57% of responding Newfoundland and Labradorians claim British or Irish ancestry, with 43.2% claiming at least one English parent, 21.5% at least one Irish parent, and 7% at least one parent of Scottish origin. Additionally, 6.1% claimed at least one parent of French ancestry.[10] The island's total population as of the2006 census was 479,105.
The island was possibly visited by the Icelandic explorerLeif Erikson in the 11th century as a rest settlement when heading farther south to the land believed to be closer to the mouth of theSt. Lawrence River called "Vinland".[11] The first confirmed visit was by the Norse who built a temporary base atL'Anse aux Meadows, aNorse settlement near the northernmost tip of Newfoundland (Cape Norman), which has been dated to be approximately 1000 years old. The site is considered the only undisputed evidence of Pre-Columbian contact between the Old and New Worlds if the Norse–Inuit contact on Greenland is not counted.[12]
The next European visitors to Newfoundland were Portuguese, Dutch and French fishermen. The island was possibly visited by theVenetian navigatorJohn Cabot (Giovanni Caboto), working under contract toHenry VII of England on his expedition fromBristol in 1497. In 1501 Portuguese brothersGaspar Corte-Real andMiguel Corte-Real charted part of the coast of Newfoundland in an attempt to find theNorthwest Passage.
Plaque commemorating Gilbert's founding of the British Empire
Settlers developed a variety of dialects associated with settlement on the island:Newfoundland English,Newfoundland French.[15] In the 19th century, it also had a dialect ofIrish known asNewfoundland Irish.[15] The closely relatedScottish Gaelic was also spoken on the island during the 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly in theCodroy Valley area, chiefly by settlers fromCape Breton Island, Nova Scotia.[16] The Gaelic names reflected the association with fishing: inScottish Gaelic, it was calledEilean a' Trosg, literally 'Island of theCod'.[17] Similarly, the Irish nameTalamh an Éisc means 'Land of the Fish'.
The first inhabitants of Newfoundland were thePaleo-Eskimo, who have no known link to other groups in Newfoundland history. Little is known about them beyondarcheological evidence of early settlements. Evidence of successive cultures have been found. The Late Paleo-Eskimo, orDorset culture, settled there about 4,000 years ago. They were descendants of migrations of ancient prehistoric peoples across the High Arctic thousands of years ago, after crossing fromSiberia via theBering land bridge. The Dorset died off or abandoned the island prior to the arrival of theNorse.[18]
After this period, theBeothuk settled in Newfoundland, migrating from Labrador on the mainland. There is no evidence that the Beothuk inhabited the island before Norse settlement. Scholars believe that the Beothuk are related closely to theInnu of Labrador.[19] The tribe later was declared "extinct" although people of partial Beothuk descent have been documented.[20] The nameBeothuk meant 'people' in theBeothuk language, which is often considered to be a member of theAlgonquian language family although the lack of sufficient records means that it is not possible to demonstrate such a connection confidently.[21]
The tribe is now typically considered extinct, but evidence of its culture is preserved in museums and historical and archaeological records.Shanawdithit, a woman who is often regarded as the last full-blood Beothuk, died in St. John's in 1829 oftuberculosis. However, Santu Toney, born around 1835 and died in 1910, was a woman of mixed Mi'kmaq and Beothuk descent, meaning some Beothuk must have lived on beyond 1829. She described her father as Beothuk and mother as Mi'kmaq, both from Newfoundland. The Beothuk may have intermingled and assimilated withInnu inLabrador and Mi'kmaq in Newfoundland. European histories also suggest potential historical competition and hostility between the Beothuk and Mi'kmaq, though this is refuted by indigenous oral history.[22] The Mi'kmaq, Innu andInuit all hunted and fished around Newfoundland but no evidence indicates that they lived on the island for long periods of time and would only travel to Newfoundland temporarily. Inuit have been documented on theGreat Northern Peninsula as late as the18th-Century. Newfoundland was historically the southernmost part of the Inuit's territorial range.[23]
WhenEuropeans arrived from 1497 and later, starting withJohn Cabot, they established contact with the Beothuk. Estimates of the number of Beothuk on the island at this time vary, typically around 700.[24]
Later both the English and French settled the island. They were followed by theMi'kmaq, anAlgonquian-speaking indigenous people from eastern Canada and present-day Nova Scotia. As European and Mi'kmaq settlement became year-round and expanded to new areas of the coast, the area available to the Beothuk to harvest the marine resources they relied upon was diminished. By the beginning of the 19th century, few Beothuk remained. Most died due toinfectious diseases carried by Europeans, to which they had noimmunity, and starvation.[25] Government attempts to engage with the Beothuk and aid them came too late.[26] The Beothuk did not have friendly relations with foreigners, unlike the Mi'kmaq. The latter readily traded with Europeans and became established in settlements in Newfoundland.
Newfoundland is the site of the only authenticatedNorse settlement in North America.[27] Anarchaeological site was discovered in 1960 atL'Anse aux Meadows by Norwegian explorerHelge Ingstad and his wife, archaeologistAnne Stine Ingstad. This site was the subject of archaeological studies throughout the 1960s and 1970s. This research estimated that the settlement dates to about the year 1000, and the site contains the earliest-known European structures in North America. In 2021, an interdisciplinary team used theMiyake event of993-994 as a benchmark indendrochronology (tree-ring studies) to precisely determine thatVikings were present in L'Anse aux Meadows in Newfoundland in year 1021.[28]
Designated as aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO, it is believed to be theVinland settlement of explorerLeif Erikson. (The IcelandicSkálholt map of 1570 refers to the area as "Promontorium Winlandiæ" and correctly shows it on a 51°N parallel withBristol, England). Before and after the departure of the Norse, the island was inhabited by indigenous populations.[29]
About 500 years later, in 1497, the Italian navigatorJohn Cabot (Zuan/Giovanni Caboto) became the first European since the Norse settlers to set foot on Newfoundland, working under commission of KingHenry VII of England. His landing site is unknown but popularly believed to beCape Bonavista, along the island's East coast.[30] Another site claimed isCape Bauld, at the tip of theGreat Northern Peninsula. A document found in the Spanish National Archives, written by a Bristol merchant, reports that Cabot's crew landed 1,800 miles or 2,900 kilometres west ofDursey Head, Ireland (latitude 51°35′N), which would put Cabot within sight of Cape Bauld. This document mentions an island that Cabot sailed past to go ashore on the mainland. This description fits with the Cape Bauld theory, asBelle Isle is not far offshore.[30]
After Cabot, the first European visitors to Newfoundland were Portuguese, Spanish, Basque, French and English migratory fishermen. In 1501, Portuguese explorersGaspar Corte-Real and his brotherMiguel Corte-Real charted part of the coast of Newfoundland in a failed attempt to find theNorthwest Passage. Late in the 17th century came Irish fishermen, who found so many fisheries that they named the islandTalamh an Éisc, meaning 'Land of the Fish', more loosely 'the fishing grounds' in Irish.
In 1583, when SirHumphrey Gilbert formally claimed Newfoundland as a colony of England, he found numerous English, French and Portuguese vessels at St. John's. There was no permanent European population. Gilbert was lost at sea during his return voyage, and plans of settlement were postponed.
In July 1596 the Scottish vessel the "William" left Aberdeen for "new fund land" (Newfoundland) and returned in 1600.[31]
On 5 July 1610,John Guy set sail fromBristol, England, with 39 other colonists forCuper's Cove. This, and other early attempts at permanent settlement failed to make a profit for the English investors, but some settlers remained, forming the very earliest modern European population on the island. By 1620, the fishermen of England'sWest Country dominated the east coast of Newfoundland. French fishermen dominated the island's south coast and Northern Peninsula. The decline of the fisheries, the wasting of the shoreline forests, and an overstocking of liquor by local merchants influenced the Whitehall government in 1675 to decline to set up a colonial governor on the island.[32]
After 1713, with theTreaty of Utrecht, the French ceded control of south and north shores of the island to the British. They kept only the nearby islands ofSt. Pierre and Miquelon, located in the fish-richGrand Banks off the south coast. Despite some early settlements by the English, the Crown discouraged permanent, year-round settlement of Newfoundland by migratory fishery workers.Thomas Nash was anIrish Catholic fisherman who permanently settled in Newfoundland. He established the fishing town ofBranch.[33] He and his cousin Father Patrick Power ofCallan, County Kilkenny, spread Catholicism in Newfoundland. This settlement attracted a major migration of Irish Catholic immigrants to Newfoundland in the early eighteenth century.[34]
By the late 18th century, permanent settlement increased, peaking in the early years of the 19th century.[35]
The French name for the island isTerre-Neuve. The nameNewfoundland is one of the oldest European place names in Canada in continuous geographical andcartographical use, dating from a 1502 letter. It was stated in the following 1628 poem:[36]
ASkeltonicall continued ryme, in praise of my New-found-Land
The European immigrants, mostly English, Scots, Irish and French, built a society in the New World unlike the ones they had left. It was also different from those that other immigrants would build on the North American mainland. As a fish-exporting society, Newfoundland was in contact with many ports and societies around the Atlantic rim. But its geographic location and political distinctiveness isolated it from its closest neighbours, Canada and the United States. Internally, most of its population was spread widely around a rugged coastline in small outport settlements. Many were distant from larger centres of population and isolated for long periods by winter ice or bad weather. These conditions had an effect on the cultures of the immigrants. They generated new ways of thinking and acting. Newfoundland and Labrador developed a wide variety of distinctive customs, beliefs, stories, songs and dialects.[37][38] A uniquevocabulary arose focused on thesea ice and weather of this isolated location and the nativewildlife its residents relied upon for food andincome.[39]
TheFirst World War had a powerful and lasting effect on the society. From a population of about a quarter of a million, 5,482 men went overseas. Nearly 1,500 were killed and 2,300 wounded. On July 1, 1916, at Beaumont-Hamel, France, 753 men of theRoyal Newfoundland Regiment went over the top of a trench. The next morning, only 68 men answered the roll-call. Even now, when the rest of Canada celebrates the founding of the country on July 1, many Newfoundlanders take part in solemn ceremonies of remembrance.[40]
TheSecond World War also had a lasting effect on Newfoundland. In particular, the United States assigned forces to the military bases at Argentia, Gander, Stephenville, Goose Bay, and St. John's.[41]
Newfoundland and Labrador is the youngest province in Canada. Newfoundland was organised as a colony in 1825, was self-governing from 1855 to 1934, but after a financial crisis the legislature was suspended and it was ruled through aCommission of Government (seeDominion of Newfoundland). On June 22 and July 3, 1948, the population of the colonyvoted in referendums 52.3% to 47.7% in favour[42] of joining Canada as a province. Opposition to confederation was concentrated among residents of the capital St. John's and its surrounding hinterland on the Avalon Peninsula.
Newfoundland joined Canada at one minute before midnight on March 31, 1949. Union with Canada has done little to reduce Newfoundlanders' self-image as a distinctive group. In 2003, 72% of residents responding identified first as Newfoundlanders, secondarily as Canadians.[43] Separatist sentiment is low, though, less than 12% in the same 2003 study.
The referendum campaign of 1948 was bitterly fought, and interests in both Canada and Britain favoured and supported confederation with Canada.Jack Pickersgill, a western Canadian native and politician, worked with the confederation camp during the campaign. The Catholic Church, whose members were a minority on the island, lobbied for continued independence. Canada offered financial incentives, including a "baby bonus" for each child in a family.
The Confederates were led by the charismaticJoseph Smallwood, a former radio broadcaster, who had developedsocialist political inclinations while working for a socialist newspaper in New York City. Following confederation, Smallwood led Newfoundland for decades as the electedpremier. His policies as premier were closer toliberalism than socialism.
The Newfoundland Blue Ensign, Newfoundland's colonial government flag from 1870 to 1904The "updated" Newfoundland Blue Ensign, government ensign from 1904 to 1965The Newfoundland Red Ensign, Newfoundland'scivil ensign from 1904 to 1965
The first flag to specifically represent Newfoundland is thought to have been an image of a green fir tree on a pink background that was in use in the early 19th century.[44] The first official flag identifying Newfoundland, flown by vessels in service of the colonial government, was the Newfoundland Blue Ensign, adopted in 1870 and used until 1904, when it was modified slightly. In 1904, the crown of the Blue Ensign was replaced with the Great Seal of Newfoundland (having been given royal approval in 1827) and the British Parliament designated Newfoundland Red and Blue ensigns as official flags specifically for Newfoundland. The Red and Blue ensigns with the Great Seal of Newfoundland in the fly were used officially from 1904 until 1965, with the Red Ensign being flown ascivil ensign by merchant shipping, and the Blue being flown by governmental ships (after the British tradition of having different flags for merchant/naval and government vessel identification).
On September 26, 1907,King Edward VII of the United Kingdom declared the Colony of Newfoundland, as an independentDominion within theBritish Empire,[45] and from that point until 1965, the Newfoundland Red Ensign was used as the civil ensign of theDominion of Newfoundland with the Blue Ensign, again, reserved for government shipping identification. In 1931 the Newfoundland National Assembly adopted theUnion Jack as the official national flag, with the Red and Blue Ensigns retained as ensigns for shipping identification.[46]
On March 31, 1949, Newfoundland became a province of Canada but retained the Union Jack in legislature, still designating it as the "national" flag. This was later reaffirmed by the Revised Statutes Act of 1952, and the Union Jack remained the official flag of Newfoundland until 1980, when it was replaced by the current provincial flag. (SeeProvince of Newfoundland and Labrador for continued discussion of provincial flags.)
Cod, the traditional mainstay of Newfoundland fisheries
As one of the first places in theNew World where Europeans settled, Newfoundland also has a history of European colonization.St. John's is the oldest city in Canada and the oldest continuously settled location in English-speaking North America.
The island of Newfoundland has numerous provincial parks such asBarachois Pond Provincial Park, considered to be a model forest, as well as two national parks.
Gros Morne National Park is located on the west coast; it was designated as aUNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its complex geology and remarkable scenery. It is the largest national park inAtlantic Canada at 1,805 km2 (697 sq mi) and is a popular tourist destination.
Terra Nova National Park, on the island's east side, preserves the rugged geography of theBonavista Bay region. It allows visitors to explore the historic interplay of land, sea and man.
L'Anse aux Meadows is an archaeological site located near the northernmost tip of the island (Cape Norman). It is the only known site of a Norse village in North America outside of Greenland, and is designated as aUNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the only widely accepted site of pre-Columbian trans-oceanic contact. It has associations with the attempted colony of Vinland established byLeif Ericson around 1003.
The island has many tourism opportunities, ranging from sea kayaking, camping, fishing and hunting, to hiking. TheInternational Appalachian Trail (IAT) is being extended along the island's mountainous west coast. On the east coast, theEast Coast Trail extends through theAvalon Peninsula for 220 km (140 mi), beginning nearFort Amherst inSt. John's and ending inCappahayden, with an additional 320 km (200 mi) of trail under construction.
Bonavista,Placentia andFerryland are all historic locations for various early European settlement or discovery activities.Tilting Harbour onFogo Island is a provincial Registered Heritage District, as well as a National Cultural Landscape District of Canada. This is one of only two national historic sites in Canada so recognized for their Irish heritage.
Entertainment opportunities abound in the island's three cities and numerous towns, particularly during summer festivals. For nightlife,George Street, located in downtown St. John's, is closed to traffic 20 hours per day. TheMile One Stadium in St. John's is the venue for large sporting and concert events in the province.
In March, the annual seal hunt (of theharp seal) takes place.
Newfoundland is roughly triangular, with each side being approximately 500 kilometres (310 mi), and having an area of 108,860 square kilometres (42,030 sq mi). Newfoundland and its associated small islands have a total area of 111,390 square kilometres (43,010 sq mi). Newfoundland extends between latitudes 46°36'N and 51°38'N.
Newfoundland is primarily characterized by having asubarctic (Köppen Dfc) or ahumid continental climate (Köppen Dfb). Locations on the extreme southeast of the island receive sufficient maritime influence to qualify as having asubpolar oceanic climate (Köppen Cfc).
^Both names can be found inthis documentArchived March 28, 2019, at theWayback Machine.Ikkarumikluak means "place of many shoals" whileKallunasillik means "place of many white people". It is thought theIkkarumiklua was used before the colonization of Newfoundland and was later replaced byKallunasillik. It is also thought thatIkkarumiklua may have been a term for theGreat Northern Peninsula and not the island as a whole.
^Point Rosee, in southwest Newfoundland, was thought to be a second Norse site until excavations in 2015 and 2016 found no evidence of any Norse presence.
^GILBERT (Saunders Family), SIR HUMPHREY" (history),Dictionary of Canadian Biography Online,University of Toronto, May 2, 2005
^Renouf, >M. A. P. (1999). "Prehistory of Newfoundlandhunter‐gatherers: Extinctions or adaptations?".World Archaeology.30 (3). Informa UK Limited:403–420.doi:10.1080/00438243.1999.9980420.ISSN0043-8243.
^abMajor, Kevin (August 2002).As Near to Heaven by Sea: A History of Newfoundland and Labrador. Penguin Books.ISBN0-14-027864-8.
^"The Press and Journal:December 14, 2018" "First Scottish ship bound for America left Aberdeen more than 420 years ago[1]
^Sainsbury, W. Noel, ed. (1893). "America and West Indies: May 1675".Calendar of State Papers Colonial, America and West Indies. Vol. 9: 1675–1676, Addenda 1574–1674. London: Her Majesty's Stationery Office. pp. 222–238. RetrievedMarch 4, 2019 – via British History Online.
^Ryan Research and Communications (April 2003)."Provincial Opinion Survey"(PDF). Government of Newfoundland and Labrador's Royal Commission on Renewing and Strengthening Our Place in Canada. RetrievedApril 25, 2007.
^Landing, E., Peng, S., Babcock, L. E., Geyer, G., & Moczydlowska-Vidal, M. (2007). Global standard names for the lowermost Cambrian series and stage. Episodes, 30(4), 287
Hatton, Joseph andMoses Harvey,Newfoundland: Its History and Present Condition, (London, 1883) complete text online* MacKay, R. A.Newfoundland: Economic, Diplomatic, and Strategic Studies, (1946)online edition
24Claimed in 1908; territory formed 1962; overlaps portions of Argentine and Chilean claims, borders not enforced but claim not renounced under theAntarctic Treaty.
1 1975 is the year of East Timor's Declaration of Independence and subsequentinvasion by Indonesia. In 2002, East Timor's independence was fully recognized.
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