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Irish linen (Irish:Línéadach Éireannach[1]) is the name given tolinen produced inIreland (including both theRepublic of Ireland andNorthern Ireland). Linen is cloth woven from, or yarn spun from,flaxfibre, which was grown in Ireland for many years before advanced agricultural methods and more suitable climate led to the concentration of quality flax cultivation innorthern Europe.
Most of the world crop of quality flax is now grown in northernFrance,Belgium and theNetherlands. Since about the 1950s to 1960s, the flax fibre for Irish linen yarn has been imported almost exclusively from France, Belgium, and the Netherlands.[2] It is bought by spinners who produce yarn, which is then sold to weavers (or knitters) who produce fabric. Irish linen spinning has now virtually ceased, yarns being imported from places such as the eastern part of theEuropean Union and China.
Weaving today consists mainly of plain linens for niche, top-of-the-range, apparel uses. Linendamask weaving in Ireland has less capacity, and it is confined at very much the top end of the market for luxury end-uses. Companies who continue to weave in Ireland, includingThomas Ferguson & Co Ltd, tend to concentrate on the quality end of the market, andJacquard weaving is moving towards the weaving of special and custom damask pieces, made to the customer's specific requirements. Fabric woven outside of Ireland and then brought to Ireland to be bleached or dyed and finished cannot carry theIrish Linen Guild logo, which is theGuild trademark, and signifies the genuine Irish Linen brand.
The Irish Linen Guild has defined Irish linen as yarn which is spun in Ireland from 100% flax fibres. It is not required that every stage from the growing of the flax to the weaving must take place in Ireland. To be Irish linen fabric, the yarns do not necessarily have to come from an Irish spinner; to be Irish linen (yarn), the flax fibre does not have to be grown in Ireland. However, the skills, craftsmanship, and technology that go into spinning the yarn must be Irish – as is the case with Irish linen fabric, where the design and weaving skills must be Irish. Finished garments or household textile items can be labelled Irish linen, although they may have been made up in another country. Irish linen does not refer to the making-up process (such as cutting and sewing).