Indienne (/ˌændiˈɛn/,an-dee-EN;French:[ɛ̃.djɛn],lit. 'that which comes from Eastern India'), was a type of printed or painted textile manufactured in Europe between the 17th and the 19th centuries, inspired by similar textile originally made in India (hence the name).[1] They received various other names in French such asmadras,pékin (French forPeking),perse (French forPersia),gougouran,damas, andcirsacs. The original Indian techniques fortextile printing involved long and complicated processes necessitating the use ofmordants or metallic salts to fix the dyes. The beautiful, vibrant, colors came from thegarance plant for red,[1]indigo for blue, andgaude for yellow.[2]
Indiennes were extremely popular, and attempts at import substitution were soon made. In 1640, Armenian merchants introduced Indian textile printing techniques at the port of Marseilles. Later, England (1670) and Holland (1678) would also adopt the technique.[2]
Their importation and production in France was prohibited through a Royal French Ordinance in 1686 in order to protect the local French woolen and silk cloth industries.[2] Theindiennes continued to be produced locally despite the heavy prohibition, and were eventually legalized again in 1759.[2] In France, among the main centers for the manufacture ofindiennes wasMarseille and theRepublic of Mulhouse (whereDMC was founded).
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