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Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine

Coordinates:45°38′28″N13°48′25″E / 45.6410°N 13.8070°E /45.6410; 13.8070
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Wine made in the northeastern Italian region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Friuli-Venezia Giulia wine (or Friuli wine) iswine made in the northeasternItalian region ofFriuli-Venezia Giulia. There are 11denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) and 3denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area. The region has 3indicazione geografica tipica (IGT) designationsAlto Livenza, delle Venezie andVenezia Giulia. Nearly 62% of the wine produced in the region falls under a DOC designation. The area is known predominantly for its white wines, which are considered some of the best examples ofItalian wine in that style.[1] Along with theVeneto andTrentino-Alto Adige, the Friuli-Venezia Giulia forms theTre Venezie wine region, which ranks withTuscany andPiedmont as Italy's world class wine regions.[2]

History

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The winemaking history of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia has been strongly influenced by the history of theFriuli andVenezia Giulia regions, that were important stops along theMediterraneanspice route from theByzantine Empire to the trading center ofVenice. During theMiddle Ages, travelers passing through this area broughtgrapevines fromMacedonia andAnatolia. Under theHabsburg reign, the French grape varieties were introduced.[3] Prior to thephylloxera epidemic, over 350grape varieties were grown in the region.

Following the phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century, winemaking in the Friuli region was very muted and did not begin to garner much attention till the 1970s.[3] The international popularity ofPinot grigio in the 1980s and 1990s help to change the dynamic of Friuli-Venezia Giulia winemaking. Prior to this time, vineyard owners sold their grapes in bulk toco-ops andnégociant-like wineries that would blend the grapes together. With the success ofMario Schiopetto in bottling and marketing the product of his own vineyard, other vineyard owners followed suit and began opening up small wineries of their own.[1]

Climate and geography

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Monte Toc along the border between Friuli-Venezia Giulia and the Veneto

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is bordered by theAlps to the north separating it fromAustria.Slovenia borders the region on the east and the Italian region of Veneto forms the western border and part of the southern border with theAdriatic Sea.[1] The northern half is very mountainous and gives way to flatter terrain andplains on the way to the sea. The climate is distinguished with very warm days and chilly nights, that help maintain a balance in the grape betweenacidity andsugar levels and allows the grapes a long, slow growing season.[2] In summertime themean temperature is around 73 °F (22.8 °C) with rainfall averaging 60 inches (1,530 mm).Harvest normally takes place in September.[4] The soils of the region vary from thecalcium richmarl andflyschsandstone in the more hilly regions toclay,sand andgravel in the valley. The names of Friuli vineyards and wine estates often include the wordronco (pluralronchi), which is theFriulian word for aterraced hillside.[2]

Wine regions

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Approximate location of the wine regions of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Most of the vineyards of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia are located in the southern half of the region, including the large wine regions ofCollio Goriziano,Colli Orientali del Friuli,Isonzo andCarso. The Lison-Pramaggiore region is shared with the Veneto. Smaller regions such as theAnnia,Aquileia,Grave andLatisana are located in the central and western part of the region, around the city ofPordenone. These smaller regions are located onalluvial plains withsoils composed of gravel and sand. The wines made here are lighter and less elegant than the Friuli wines made in the major southern wine regions. Unlike other Friuli regions which require 100%, avarietal wine in the Graves and Aquileia zones only need 85% of thegrape variety, with the Latisana and Annia zones requiring 90%. More red wine is produced in these zones than in the rest of the Friuli, withMerlot,Cabernet Franc andCabernet Sauvignon being the leading varietals. With wine production still,frizzante andspumante styles are produced fromChardonnay,Pinot bianco, Pinot grigio,Friulano andVerduzzo.[1]

Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli

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The southeast province ofGorizia is home to the DOCs of the Collio region, most notablyCollio Goriziano. Part of the region's vineyards extend over the border with Slovenia, but none of the Slovenian Wines can bear the designationCollio. The area benefits from its location among thefoothills of the Alps, where the cool winds that come off the Adriatic moderate the climate. The cool air helps maintain the acidity levels in the grape. The region's best vineyards are found in the clay and sandstone soil around thecomune ofCormons. The region is dominated by white wine production, making five times more white than red wine. Collio wine is typically fullbodied and rich, made as a varietal or blend of Friulano,Ribolla Gialla,Malvasia Istriana,Chardonnay,Pinot bianco,Pinot grigio andSauvignon blanc. Red wine under the designationCollio Rosso is made from a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The generalCollio Bianco designation can also include the white grapesMüller-Thurgau,Picolit,Riesling,Traminer andWelschriesling, as well as the white juice from the red wine grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon andpinot noir.[1]

Located to the northwest of theCollio Goriziano, theColli Orientali del Friuli DOC shares similarvineyard soils and climate as the Collio region. The grape varieties are also similar, though Ribolla Gialla and Picolit takes a more prominent role, here as does the local grape Verduzzo. The three grapes are used to make varietal wines under theColli Orientali del Friuli DOC. Picolit is known particularly for the quality of thedessert wine it produces and has 2 DOCG dedicated to its production inUdine. Red wine production is also more prominent in this region, though it is still less than half the production of white wine. The red wines include varietal forms of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as red wines made from the localPignolo,Refosco,Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso,Schioppettino andTazzelenghe. The region is divided into 3 sub districts which include Ramandolo in the north and the DOCGof the same name, as well as the dessert wine Verduzzo di Ramandolo. In the center of the zone is theCialla district, which makesdry wines under the designationCialla Bianco andCialla Rosso, as well as sweet and off dry wines made from Picolit and Verduzzo. Other notable wines from this district include Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Cialla Schioppettino. The far southern district is theCorno di Rosazzo, which is heavily planted with Ribolla Gialla, that is believed to have originated in the vineyards of the localabbey over 1,000 years ago. The area is also known for its off-dry to sweet Rosazzo Picolit and dry Rosazzo Pignolo.[1]

Isonzo and Carso

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TheGulf of Trieste borders the western half of the Carso wine region and the southern portion of Isonzo.

The Isonzo and Carso wine regions are located in the far southeastern part of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, bordering Slovenia. The Isonzo region is located on a plain of alluvial deposits directly south of Collio, along theIsonzo River. The best vineyards are located in the northeast, close to Cormons. The wine regions predominately have amaritime climate with more rainfall than other Friuli regions. The region is known for itssparkling Pinot bianco as well as dry white wines made from Chardonnay, Malvasia Istriana and Sauvignon blanc. Other Isonzo DOC designated wines include dry, off dry and sparkling wines made fromGewürztraminer, Cabernet franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,Franconia,Moscato Giallo,Moscato Rosa, Pinot grigio, Pinot nero, Refosco, Riesling, Schioppettino, Friulano, Verduzzo and Welschriesling. TheVendemmia Tardiva is alate harvest wine made from a varietal style or blend of Chardonnay, Pinot bianco, Friulano and Verduzzo.[1]

Located south of the Isonzo zone, near the city ofTrieste, is theCarso zone. Situated on theIstrian Peninsula, the wine region has a maritime climate that is well suited to production of the localTerrano, used to make red wine. Wines made from this grape are known for their high acidity and goodfood pairing with Slavic cuisine. The white wines made from theMalvasia Istriana are highly regarded for theirhoney-almond notes. Other Carso wines can be made from the following grapes;Vitovska, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot grigio, Sauvignon blanc, Traminer[1] andPiccola nera.[5]

Viticulture and winemaking

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A glass of Refosco from Friuli

The best vineyards in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia are located on the south facing slopes of the Alps foothills, in the southern part of the region, where they can benefit from the most direct sunlight to go along with the night-time cool breezes from the Adriatic.[2] The vineyardyields of the Friuli are among the lowest in Italy averaging 3.5tons anacre. This is a result of the Friuli quest for high quality over quantity in their wines and also a reason why these wines tend to be more costly than other Italian whites.[1]

While white wine dominates Friuli wine production, nearly 40% of the production is red with Merlot being the leading red wine grape. In the 1960s, winemakers of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia pioneered modern techniques for whitewinemaking in Italy, by quickly getting juice off the grape skins and taking extra measures to preventoxidation.[1] Through Italy these techniques came to be known as themetodo friulano or "Friuli method".[6] Most Friuli wines are made in varietal form, with most appellations in the region requiring wines to be made with 100% of one grape, but distinguished blends are also made. The general philosophy of Friuli winemakers (especially in regards to their white wines) is to emphasise the grape's pure fruitiness and acidity without the masking effects ofoak. To this extent, the Friulians more closely resemble theAlsatians and winemakers of theLoire Valley than their counterparts inBurgundy,Spain and other parts of Italy.[2]

From the mid 1990s[7] there has been a revival ofamber wine production in the Friuli, which involves leaving the white wine grapes in extendedmaceration with their grape skins. The resulting wines have a hint of color pigments that give them an orange hue.[8]

Grapes and wines

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Over 30 different grapes varieties are grown in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia, includinginternational varieties such asChardonnay,Cabernet Sauvignon andMerlot, as well as local varieties likeRefosco dal Peduncolo Rosso,Schioppettino, Friulano,Ribolla Gialla andVerduzzo. Of the local varieties, Friulano is the most well known and important variety, producing crisp, floral wines that develop notes ofnuts andfennel as it ages. The grape was widely known asTocai Friulano, but in 2006 theEuropean Union banned names that have some similarity or association with theHungarian wineTokaji. Now Tocai Friulano is calledFriulano. The very acidic Ribolla Gialla grape was primarily used as a blending component until winemakers started to apply the techniques used with Chardonnay (such asmalolactic fermentation) to produce softer, morebuttery wines, that still retain the crisp,lemon edge of the grape. Wines made from Verduzzo havepeach and nutty flavors in their youth, but develop more honeyed flavors as the wine ages. The high acidity of the grape works well in sweet production and in regions like Ramandolo it is often dried to make apassito wine. The Picolit grape also does well in sweet wines, where it can produce elegant, floral wines that have a dry finish.[6] In contrast to the thin, sometimes bland Pinot grigio produced in other parts of theTre Venezie, well made examples of Friuli Pinot grigio are known for their fuller body and delicate peach, almond andgreen apple flavors. Sauvignon blancs are made in a style reminiscent ofSancerre with smoke,herbs and elements of honey andhazelnut. Some of the most expensive Friuli wines are made from the Picolit grape, which is prone togrape diseases andmutations which cause the vine to lose its flowers and grape clusters. In most years, less than half of a vineyard Picolit crop will survive and be able to make wine. The light, honeyed dessert wine that it can produce is often in high demand because of restricted supply.[2]

Along with the internationally styled Merlots, Friuli produces some distinctive red wines from the local grape varieties. Tazzelenghe (meaning "tonguecutter") produces a verytannic and fruity wine, that mellows as it ages but maintains a good amount of its fruitiness. The Schioppettino (meaning "gunshot" and sometimes calledRibolla Nera) also produces very tannic wines withspice andpepper notes behind theripe fruit flavors. The best known local red wine variety is the Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (different from regular Refosco), which produces a herbal full-bodied wine that ages well.[6] Refosco is noted for its high acidity withblueberry andblackberry notes.[2]

In 2008,DNA analysis showed that the Friulitable grape Refosco di Guarnieri was identical to the Venetian wine grapeTrevisana nera.[9]

See also

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References

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  1. ^abcdefghijM. Ewing-Mulligan & E. McCarthyItalian Wines for Dummies pg 132-140 Hungry Minds 2001.ISBN 0-7645-5355-0.
  2. ^abcdefgK. MacNeilThe Wine Bible pg 342-350 Workman Publishing 2001.ISBN 1-56305-434-5.
  3. ^abJ. Robinson (ed)"The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition pg 287-288 Oxford University Press 2006.ISBN 0-19-860990-6.
  4. ^H. Johnson & J. RobinsonThe World Atlas of Wine pg 170-171 Mitchell Beazley Publishing 2005.ISBN 1-84000-332-4.
  5. ^J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. VouillamozWine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours pg 797 Allen Lane 2012.ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2.
  6. ^abcC. Fallis, editorThe Encyclopedic Atlas of Wine pg 302, Global Book Publishing 2006.ISBN 1-74048-050-3.
  7. ^S. Woolf"Orange wines - it's time to get in touch", Decanter, May 12, 2015
  8. ^J. Bonne "Soaking white grapes in skins is orange crush",San Francisco Chronicle, October 11, 2009
  9. ^J. Robinson, J. Harding and J. VouillamozWine Grapes - A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours pg 1084–1085 Allen Lane 2012.ISBN 978-1-846-14446-2.

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