Feta (Greek:φέτα,féta) is aGreekbrined whitecheese made fromsheep milk or from a mixture of sheep andgoat milk. It is soft, with small or no holes, and no skin. Crumbly with a slightly grainy texture, it is formed into large blocks andaged in brine. Its flavor is tangy and salty, ranging from mild to sharp. Feta is used in salads, such asGreek salad, and in pastries, notably thephyllo-basedGreek dishesspanakopita "spinach pie" andtyropita "cheese pie". It is often served with olive oil or olives, and sprinkled with aromatic herbs such asoregano. It can also be served cooked (oftengrilled), as part of asandwich, inomelettes, and many other dishes.
Since 2002, feta has been aprotected designation of origin in theEuropean Union (EU).EU legislation and similar legislation in 25 other countries[1] limits the namefeta to cheeses produced in the traditional way in mainland Greece andLesbos Prefecture,[2] which are made from sheep milk, or from a mixture of sheep milk and up to 30% of goat milk from the same area.[3]
Similar white brined cheeses are made traditionally in theBalkans,Cyprus, around theBlack Sea, inWest Asia, and more recently elsewhere. Outside the EU, the namefeta is often used generically for these cheeses.[4]
For many consumers, the wordfeta is a generic term for a white, crumbly cheese aged in brine. Production of the cheese first began in the Eastern Mediterranean and around the Black Sea. Over time, production expanded to countries includingDenmark,France,Germany,Italy, theUnited Kingdom and theUnited States, often partly or wholly of cow milk, and is (or was) sometimes also calledfeta.[4][5] In the United States, most cheese sold under the namefeta is American and made from cow milk.[6][need quotation to verify]
Countries where the term Feta is protected as a Geographical Indication
Country of origin (Greece)
Protected as Geographical Indication
Protected as Geographical Indication (with limitations)
Since 2002, feta has been a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product within the European Union. According to the relevant EU legislation (applicable within the EU and Northern Ireland), as well as similar UK legislation only those cheeses produced in a traditional way in particular areas of Greece, which are made from sheep milk, or from a mixture of sheep milk and up to 30% of goat milk from the same area, can be called feta. Also in several other countries the term feta has since been protected. An overview is shown in the table below.
Protection of Feta/Φέτα as a Geographical Indication[1][2]
Use of feta including the terms "kind", "type", "style", "imitation" etc. is allowed, as well as use by producers using the term before 18 October 2013.
China
1 March 2021
Also protected as 菲达奶酪. Until 1 March 2029 limited use of the term is allowed for similar products.
The EU PDO for feta requires a maximum moisture of 56%, a minimum fat content in dry matter of 43%, and a pH that usually ranges from 4.4 to 4.6.[7] Production of the EU PDO feta is traditionally categorized into firm and soft varieties. The firm variety is tangier and considered higher in quality. The soft variety is almost soft enough to be spreadable, mostly used in pies and sold at a cheaper price. Slicing feta produces some amount oftrímma, "crumble", which is also used for pies (not being sellable,trímma is usually given away for free upon request).
High-quality feta should have a creamy texture when sampled, and aromas of ewe's milk, butter, and yoghurt. In the mouth it is tangy, slightly salty, and mildly sour, with a spicy finish that recallspepper andginger, as well as a hint of sweetness. According to the specification of the Geographical Indication, the biodiversity of the land coupled with the special breeds of sheep and goats used for milk is what gives feta cheese a specific aroma and flavor.[2]
Traditionally (and legally within the EU and other territories where it is protected), feta is produced using only whole sheep milk, or a blend of sheep and goat milk (with a maximum of 30% goat milk).[8] The milk may be pasteurized or not, but most producers now use pasteurized milk. If pasteurized milk is used, a starter culture of micro-organisms is added to replace those naturally present in raw milk that are killed in pasteurization. These organisms are required for acidity and flavour development.
When the pasteurized milk has cooled to approximately 35 °C (95 °F),[9][10]rennet is added and thecasein is left to coagulate. The compacted curds are then chopped up and placed in a special mould or a cloth bag that allows the whey to drain.[11][12] After several hours, the curd is firm enough to cut up and salt;[9] salinity will eventually reach approximately 3%,[10] when the salted curds are placed (depending on the producer and the area of Greece) in metal vessels or wooden barrels and allowed to infuse for several days.[9][10][12]
After the dry-salting of the cheese is complete, aging or maturation inbrine (a 7% salt in water solution) takes several weeks at room temperature and a further minimum of 2 months in a refrigerated high-humidity environment—as before, either in wooden barrels or metal vessels,[10][12] depending on the producer (the more traditional barrel aging is said to impart a unique flavour). The containers are then shipped to supermarkets where the cheese is cut and sold directly from the container; alternatively blocks of standardized weight are packaged in sealed plastic cups with some brine.
Feta dries relatively quickly even when refrigerated. If stored for longer than a week, it should be kept in brine or lightly salted milk.
They make a great many cheeses; it is a pity they are so salty. I saw great warehouses full of them, some in which the brine, orsalmoria as we would say was two feet deep, and the large cheeses were floating in it. Those in charge told me that the cheeses could not be preserved in any other way, being so rich. They do not know how to make butter. They sell a great quantity to the ships that call there: it was astonishing to see the number of cheeses taken on board our own galley.
Pietro Casola, 15th-century Italian traveller to Crete[13]
Cheese made from sheep and goat milk has been common in theEastern Mediterranean since ancient times.[14][15] InBronze AgeCanaan, cheese was perhaps among the salted foods shipped by sea in ceramic jars and so rennet-coagulated white cheeses similar to feta may have been shipped in brine, but there is no direct evidence for this.[16] In Greece, the earliest documented reference to cheese production dates back to the 8th century BC and the technology used to make cheese from sheep-goat milk is similar to the technology used by Greek shepherds today to produce feta.[17][18] In theOdyssey,Homer describes howPolyphemus makes cheese and dry-stores it in wicker racks,[19][20] though he says nothing about brining[21]—resulting perhaps, according to Paul S. Kindstedt, in a rinded cheese similar to modernpecorino andcaprino rather than feta.[22] On the other hand, E. M. Antifantakis and G. Moatsou state that Polyphemus' cheese was "undoubtedly the ancestor of modern Feta".[23] Origins aside, cheese produced from sheep-goat milk was a common food inancient Greece and an integral component of laterGreek gastronomy.[17][18][23]
The first unambiguous documentation of preserving cheese in brine appears inCato the Elder'sDe Agri Cultura (2nd century BC), though the practice was surely much older.[24] It is also described in the 10th-centuryGeoponica.[24] Feta cheese, specifically, is recorded byPsellos in the 11th century under the nameprósphatos (Greek πρόσφατος 'recent, fresh'), and was produced byCretans.[25] In the late 15th century, anItalian visitor toCandia, Pietro Casola, describes the marketing of feta, as well as its storage in brine.[13] Feta cheese, along with milk andsheep meat, is the principal source of income for shepherds in northwestern Greece.[26]
The Greek wordféta (φέτα) comes from the Italianfetta'slice', which in turn is derived from the Latinoffa'morsel, piece'.[27][28] The wordfeta became widespread as a name for the cheese only in the 19th century; probably referring to the cheese being cut to pack it in barrels.[15] The same cheese can be referred to differently within Greece itself. InThessaloniki, for example, it is referred to astyrí (τυρί), which is the general word for'cheese' in the south of the country.[29]
Effect of certification as a geographical indication
Prior to Greece's pursuit of a PDO for its feta, there was long-standing production out of Greece in three member states: Germany, Denmark and France, and in certain countries (e.g., Denmark) feta was perceived as a generic term, while it was perceived as a designation of origin in others (e.g., Greece), with the centre of production and consumption taking place in Greece.[30] Greece first requested the registration of feta as a designation of origin in the EU in 1994, which was approved in 1996 by commission regulation (EC) No 1107/96[31] The decision was appealed to theCourt of Justice of the European Union (CJEU) by Denmark, France and Germany, which annulled the decision as the Commission did not evaluate sufficiently whether or not Feta had become a generic term.[32]
After that decision, the European Commission reevaluated registering feta as a PDO, taking into account production in other EU countries and re-registered feta as a PDO in Commission Regulation (EC) No 1829/2002. This decision was appealed again at CJEU by Denmark and Germany. In 2005, the CJEU upheld the Commission Regulation. It indicated that indeed the term was generic in some EU countries and that production also took place outside Greece, but that on the other hand the geographical region in Greece was well defined and that even non-Greek producers often appealed to the status of Feta as a Greek product through the choice of packaging.[30]
Although the island ofCephalonia also traditionally produces feta, the island was left out of the definition of the protected designation of origin. While this does not play a role for consumers in Greece, dairies lose out in sales abroad because they do not produce real "feta" and have to accept price reductions.[33]
The European Commission gave other nations five years to find a new name for their feta cheese or stop production.[3] Because of the decision by the European Union, Danish dairy companyArla Foods changed the name of its white cheese products toApetina, which is also the name of an Arla food brand established in 1991.[34] The British cheese Yorkshire Feta was renamed toFine Fettle Yorkshire.[35] When needed to describe an imitation feta, names such as "salad cheese" and "Greek-style cheese" are used.
The EU included feta in severalAssociations Agreements,Free Trade Agreements and agreements on the recognition of Geographical Indications, which led to the expansion of protection of the term "feta". Exporters from the EU to foreign markets outside the territories covered by these agreements are not subject to the European Commission rules. As such, the non-Greek EU cheese sold abroad is often labeled as feta.
In 2013, an agreement was reached with Canada (CETA) in which Canadian feta manufacturers retained their rights to continue producing feta while new entrants to the market would label the product "feta-style/type cheese".[36][37][38][39] In other markets such as the United States,Australia,New Zealand and elsewhere, full generic usage of the term "feta" continues, and was one of several original name issues preventing the signing of an Australia–EU free trade deal.[40]
Serbia (сир,sir as a common name; сирење,sirenje in South, including Kosovo Serb; andbrinza in north and east Serbia within Slovak andAromanian populations)
^Hatziminaoglou & Boyazoglou 2004, p. 126: "Homer in his famous ancient Greek book, the Odyssey, describes the use of dairy goats during the Mycenean times (about 1200 B.C.), when the Cyclops Polyphemus in his cave sat down to milk his goats and sheep, then put aside half of the milk to be curdled in wicker baskets with the previous day’s whey".
^Christides, Giorgos (13 December 2013)."Feta Cheese Row Sours EU-Canada Trade Deal".BBC. Retrieved24 May 2014.But new Canadian brands of 'feta' will have to call their cheese 'feta-style' or 'imitation feta' and cannot evoke Greece on the label, such as using Greek lettering or an image of ancient Greek columns.
Adams, Alexis Marie (2016). "feta". In Donnelly, Catherine W. (ed.).The Oxford Companion to Cheese. Oxford: Oxford University Press. pp. 269–271.ISBN978-0199330881.
Antifantakis, E. M.; Moatsou, G. (2006). "2 Feta and Other Balkan Cheeses". In Tamime, Adnan (ed.).Brined Cheeses. Oxford: Blackwell Publishing Ltd. pp. 43–76.ISBN9781405124607.
Bintsis, Thomas; Alichanidis, Efstathios (2018). "Cheeses from Greece". In Papademas, Photis; Bintsis, Thomas (eds.).Global Cheesemaking Technology: Cheese Quality and Characteristics. Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. pp. 180–181.ISBN9781119046158.
Kindstedt, Paul S. (2012).Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and Its Place in Western Civilization. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing.ISBN978-1603584128.
Polychroniadou-Alichanidou, Anna (2004). "13: Traditional Greek Feta". In Hui, Y.H.; Meunier-Goddik, Lisbeth; Josephsen, Jytte; Nip, Wai-Kit; Stanfield, Peggy S. (eds.).Handbook of Food and Beverage Fermentation Technology. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc. pp. 283–299.ISBN9780824751227.
Razionale, Vince (2016). "Homer". In Donnelly, Catherine W. (ed.).The Oxford Companion to Cheese. Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 360.ISBN978-0199330881.
