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Escada

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
German luxury fashion house

For other uses, seeEscada (disambiguation).
Escada SE
Headquarters in Aschheim, Germany
Company typePrivate
Industryclothing industry
Founded1978
FoundersMargaretha Ley
Wolfgang Ley
HeadquartersMunich,Germany
Key people
ProductsWomen's Fashion
Handbags
Shoes
Fragrances
Eyewear
OwnerRegent, L.P.
Websiteescada.com

EscadaSE is a luxury women'sdesigner clothing company headquartered inAschheim,Germany. The company is owned byRegent, L.P., an international private equity firm led by investorMichael Reinstein.[1]

The company was founded in 1978 by designer Margaretha Ley. It currently retails fashion accessories and ready-to-wear. As of 2017, Escada SE operates in 80 countries with 600 points of sale worldwide. The luxury fashion label employs around 1,500 employees with international locations inMilan,Paris,Tokyo,London,Beverly Hills, andNew York City.

History

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Escada was founded in1978 by Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley inMunich,Germany.[2] Being a former model and having a solid education in tailoring from the Royal Court in Stockholm, Margaretha Ley became known for her bold, feminine designs. The Escada womenswear collection, which featured exquisite inlays and appliqués, was first presented in 1978. The company soon stood out with its distinctive creations featuring unusual combinations of colors and patterns, exclusive embroidery, and elaborately designed knitted fashions. Escada saw a rapid upswing and continually extended its collections and its creative work.

In the course of its international expansion, Escada SE went public in 1986, with the Leys retaining 51 percent of the voting stock.[3] In addition to the Escada label, the company also manufactured women's clothing under the Crisca, Laurèl, Apriori and Natalie Acatrini labels, produced the Cerruti 1881 women's collection under a licensing agreement and owned a majority percentage ofSt. John Knits (from 1990) andBadgley Mischka (from 1992).[4][5] Escada introduced its first signature scent in 1990.[6]

After Margareth Ley died in 1992, Michael Stolzenburg (1992–1994) andTodd Oldham (1995–1997) served as the brand's design directors.[7] In 1993, the company sold its share in St. John Knits.[8] In 1995, the company launched the Escada Sport label,[9] established its own accessories collection including bags and shoes and granted major licenses, collaborating with such partners asProcter & Gamble. In 2001, the first Escada lingerie collection was produced and distributed by Hanro of Switzerland.[10] With the exception of Escada Sport, the company discontinued all of its sub-lines in 2001, such as Escada Weekend or Escada Couture, focusing instead on the Escada main brand.[11] After 12 years in the category, Escada exited the beauty business in 2002 by selling its assets and licensing its name toWella; in turn, Wella signed a long-term, worldwide licensing agreement with Escada for the manufacturing and marketing of fragrances and cosmetics.[12]

In 2006, Damiano Biella joined Escada 2006 in the new position of creative director.[13][14] In 2007, the artistStefan Szczesny created a new collection inSaint-Tropez, France.

From 2008,Bruno Sälzer served as Escada's CEO with responsibilities for design, marketing, and sales.[15] Under his leadership, the company sold itsMünster-basedsubsidiary Primera AG, which comprised the brandsapriori,cavita, andLaurèl,[16] as well asBiBA to financial investor Mutares. Shortly after, it launched an unsuccessful plan to raise 29 million euros ($41 million) in arights issue as part of a plan to restructure its debts.[17]

On 11 August 2009, Escada filed forinsolvency at Munich Local Court, as an exchange offer for the outstanding bonds of 200 million euros was not accepted by the necessary 80% of all bond holders.[18][19] Sven Ley, the son of founder Wolfgang Ley, teamed up with the former head ofGucci, Giacomo Santucci, and Italian investment group Borletti to offer almost 80 million euros ($118.2 million) for Escada.[20] In November 2009, the company was eventually acquired by India'sLondon-based billionaireLakshmi Mittal, whose daughter-in-law,Megha Mittal, emerged as the new the owner and became chair of the company's board.[21]

Following the sale, Bettina Hammerl (2009–2012)[22] and Daniel Wingate (2012–2017)[23][24] oversaw Escada's fashion design. Sälzer stepped down as CEO by December 2014[25] and was succeeded by Glenn McMahon.[26]

From 2016 until 2019, Iris Epple-Righi served as Escada's CEO. During her time in office, Niall Sloan joined the company as the Global Design Director in 2017.[27] Sloan presented his first runway collection for Escada at New York Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 19 to celebrate the company's 40th anniversary.[28] The event was held at the historicPark Avenue Armory. For the Fall / Winter 19 season Sloan presented his next collection, inspired by the life and legacy ofHedy Lamarr, during Paris Fashion Week in February at theInstitut de France.[29]

Escada announced British singerRita Ora as the brand's face of their spring campaign in 2019.[30] Ora released a version of the ESCADA Heart Bag which she helped design and a portion of proceeds from the sale of the design was given toWomen for Women International.[31]

Mittal sold Escada in October 2019 toRegent, L.P. a global private equity firm in Beverly Hills, California. By September 2020, the company again filed for insolvency, with plans to limit corporate operations in the country and further limit its retail presence.[32]

Corporate affairs

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ESCADA store panorama inside

Escada divides its business activities in three segments:

  • Fashion with the brandsEscada Mainline[33] andEscada Sport.[34]
  • Accessories consisting of bags, shoes, and small leather goods.[35]
  • Licenses which utilizes the Escada brand for fragrances, eyewear.[36]

Notable clients

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ESCADA Store front

Diana, Princess of Wales was a customer of Escada, famously wearing an Escada coat for a formal visit to Berlin in 1987.Kim Basinger was awarded the Oscar in 1998 in an Escada gown.Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden is a regular Escada customer. In 2010, she wore Escada to the pre-wedding party at the wedding ofPrince Nikolaos of Greece. In 2011, she wore Escada to the Monaco royal wedding, the pre-wedding dinner for theBritish royal wedding, as well as the state visit to Germany.Sarah, Duchess of York, wore Escada toElton John's White Tie and Tiara Ball in 2011.

Controversy

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In a 1994 lawsuit filed inNew York State Supreme Court, former Escada Beauté president Lawrence H. Appel claimed he was fired without cause, less than three weeks after the company offered and then withdraw a "buyout" proposal. Appel also alleged that Wolfgang Ley, who was named as a defendant, made numerous "derogatory comments" about Jews.[37]

On 18 October 2007, the group "Global Network Against the Fur Industry",[38] which is made up of organizations such as Coalition to Abolish the Fur Trade orOffensive gegen die Pelzindustrie, launched a campaign against Escada, in the form of a day of action, in hopes of getting Escada to stop selling fur. According to their website, on 18 October, there were 40 actions against Escada in 14 countries.[39] On 6 October 2007, Escada headquarters were vandalized by theAnimal Liberation Front.[40] Since that date the campaign against Escada continues with regular pickets in front of Escada outlets worldwide. In October 2010, the company confirmed to the campaigners that Escada would go completely fur-free by 2011.[citation needed]

References

[edit]
  1. ^Escada Owner in Advanced Talks to Sell Brand – WWD. Wwd.com (30 October 2019). Retrieved on 2020-02-05.
  2. ^"Escada – Fashion Designer Encyclopedia – women, men, shoes, style, new, body, history, collection, designs".www.fashionencyclopedia.com.Archived from the original on 20 September 2016.
  3. ^Anne-Marie Schiro (9 June 1992),Margaretha Ley, Chief Designer Of Sportswear Company, Is Dead New York Times.
  4. ^Anne-Marie Schiro (9 June 1992),Margaretha Ley, Chief Designer Of Sportswear Company, Is DeadNew York Times.
  5. ^Woody Hochswendr (28 January 1992),Badgley Mischka AcquiredNew York Times.
  6. ^Melissa Drier and Jennifer Weil (30 June 2000),Escada's New Persona Women's Wear Daily.
  7. ^Suzy Menkes (11 October 1994),Todd Oldham Will Join Escada International Herald Tribune.
  8. ^Mariana Popp (7 April 1994),Wolfgang Ley: Escada is on Road to Recovery Women's Wear Daily.
  9. ^"Escada".Vintage Fashion Guild. 17 July 2010. Retrieved19 October 2020.
  10. ^Melissa Drier (22 January 2001),Hanro Launches Escada LingerieWomen's Wear Daily.
  11. ^Melissa Drier and Jennifer Weil (30 June 2000),Escada's New PersonaWomen's Wear Daily.
  12. ^Jennifer Weil (5 March 2002),Escada Exits Beauty, Wella Licenses Brand Women's Wear Daily.
  13. ^Melissa Drier (18 September 2006),Escada Names Biella As Creative DirectorWomen's Wear Daily.
  14. ^Melissa Drier (12 February 2009),Escada Restructures, Hammerl Takes Design ReinsWomen's Wear Daily.
  15. ^Christian Kraemer (19 August 2009),Escada CEO sells own shares at steep loss Reuters.
  16. ^Eva Kuehnen (26 May 2009),Stricken Escada casts off fashion brandsReuters.
  17. ^Anousha Sakoui (21 July 2009),Escada pegs plans on rights issue Financial Times.
  18. ^vgl.Modekonzern Escada muss Insolvenz anmeldenArchived 28 June 2012 at theWayback Machine welt.de, 11. August 2009
  19. ^Sarah Gilbert (13 August 2009)."Escada out of fashion, declares bankruptcy". dailyfinance.com. Archived fromthe original on 31 January 2016. Retrieved7 December 2015.
  20. ^Eva Kuehnen and Christian Kraemer (3 November 2009),Son of Escada founder bids for German fashion house Reuters.
  21. ^"404. Page Not Found – Bloomberg".Bloomberg.com. 30 August 2023.{{cite web}}:Cite uses generic title (help)
  22. ^Melissa Drier (12 February 2009),Escada Restructures, Hammerl Takes Design ReinsWomen's Wear Daily.
  23. ^Melissa Drier (26 November 2012),Escada Promotes Daniel WingateWomen's Wear Daily.
  24. ^Melissa Drier (18 January 2017),Daniel Wingate and Escada Part WaysWomen's Wear Daily.
  25. ^Drier, Melissa (20 February 2014)."Bruno Sälzer to Step Down at Escada". WWD.Archived from the original on 21 March 2014. Retrieved20 February 2014.
  26. ^Melissa Drier (15 December 2014),Glenn McMahon Named Escada CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  27. ^Hays, Kali (14 June 2017)."Niall Sloan joined Escada as the Global Design Directora". WWD. Retrieved14 June 2017.
  28. ^Blanks, Tim (14 June 2017)."Rebooting Escada for a New Era". Business of Fashion. Retrieved12 June 2019.
  29. ^Ellie, Pithers (27 February 2019)."Meet The Ultra-Glamorous Muse Behind Escada's AW19 Collection". Vogue UK. Retrieved12 June 2019.
  30. ^Ma, Fiona (14 January 2019)."Rita Ora Is Escada's New Brand Ambassador". WWD. Retrieved2 June 2019.
  31. ^Scott, Catherine (28 March 2019)."Rita Ora's Got a Brand-New Bag, and She Designed It for Escada". Vogue. Retrieved2 June 2019.
  32. ^Kali Hays (2 September 2020),Escada Files for Insolvency in Germany Amid Financial Stress Women's Wear Daily.
  33. ^"Escada Mainline Online Store". 25 December 2018.
  34. ^"Escada Sport Online Store". 25 December 2018.
  35. ^"Escada Accessories Online Store". 25 December 2018.
  36. ^"Escada Fragrances". 25 December 2018.
  37. ^Former Exec Sues Escada for Slander, Discrimination, Breach of ContractWomen's Wear Daily, 14 June 1994.
  38. ^"ESCADA Campaign - Global Network to Abolish the Fur Industry". Archived fromthe original on 13 November 2007. Retrieved12 November 2007.
  39. ^[1][permanent dead link]
  40. ^"BITE BACK Magazine".www.directaction.info.Archived from the original on 27 November 2007.

External links

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Media related toEscada at Wikimedia Commons

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