Under the name ofDundee City,[3] it forms one of the 32council areas used forlocal government in Scotland. Within the boundaries of thehistoric county ofAngus, the city developed into aburgh in the late 12th century and established itself as an important east coast trading port.[4] Rapid expansion was brought on by theIndustrial Revolution, particularly in the 19th century when Dundee was the centre of the globaljute industry.[5] This, along with its other major industries, gave Dundee its epithet as the city of "jute, jam and journalism".
With the decline of traditional industry, the city has adopted a plan to regenerate and reinvent itself as a cultural centre.[6] In pursuit of this, a £1 billion master plan to regenerate and to reconnect the Waterfront to the city centre started in 2001 and is expected to be completed within a 30-year period. TheV&A Dundee – the first branch of theV&A to operate outside of London – is the main centrepiece of the waterfront project.[7][8] Today, Dundee is promoted as "One City, Many Discoveries" in honour of Dundee's history of scientific activities and of theRRSDiscovery,Robert Falcon Scott's Antarctic exploration vessel, which was built in Dundee and is now berthed at Discovery Point.
Dundee is an international research and development hub in technology, medicine and life sciences, with technological industries having arrived since the 1980s.[9][10][11] Dundee was named as a "City of the Future" byCognizant in 2021, the only UK city to be featured.[12][13][14] Dundee has also been a leading city inelectric vehicles, having one of the largest fleets of electric vehicles in the country. The city was named as the electric vehicle capital of Europe in 2018, and it has continuously been branded as the electric vehicle capital of Scotland and the United Kingdom.[15][16][17]
In 2014, Dundee was recognised by the United Nations as the UK's firstUNESCO City of Design for its diverse contributions to fields including medical research, comics and video games.[18][19][20] Since 2015, Dundee's international profile has risen.GQ magazine named Dundee the "Coolest Little City in Britain" in 2015 andThe Wall Street Journal ranked Dundee at number 5 on its "Worldwide Hot Destinations" list for 2018.[21]
The name "Dundee" is made up of two parts: the commonCeltic place-name elementdun, meaning fort; and a second part that may derive from a Celtic element, cognate with the Gaelicdè, meaning 'fire'.[22]
While earlier evidence for human occupation is abundant,[23] Dundee's success and growth as a seaport town arguably came as a result ofWilliam the Lion's charter, granting Dundee to his younger brother,David (laterEarl of Huntingdon), in the late 12th century.[24] The situation of the town and its promotion by Earl David as a trading centre led to a period of prosperity and growth.[25] The earldom was passed down to David's descendants, amongst whom wasJohn Balliol. The town became aRoyal Burgh on John's coronation as king in 1292.[26] The town and its castle were occupied by English forces for several years during theFirst War of Independence and recaptured byRobert the Bruce in early 1312.[27] The original burghal charters were lost during the occupation and subsequently renewed by Bruce in 1327.[28]
The burgh suffered considerably during the conflict known as theRough Wooing of 1543 to 1550, and was occupied by the English forces ofAndrew Dudley from 1547. In 1548, unable to defend the town against an advancing Scottish force, Dudley ordered that the town be burnt to the ground.[29] In 1645, during theWars of the Three Kingdoms, Dundee was again besieged, this time by the RoyalistMarquess of Montrose.[30] The town was finally destroyed by Parliamentarian forces led byGeorge Monck in 1651.[31] The town played a pivotal role in the establishment of theJacobite cause whenJohn Graham of Claverhouse, 1st Viscount Dundee raised theStuart standard on theDundee Law in 1689.[32] The town was held by the Jacobites in the 1715–16 rising, and on 6 January 1716 the Jacobite claimant to the throne,James VIII and III (the Old Pretender), made a public entry into the town. Many in Scotland, including many in Dundee, regarded him as the rightful king.[33]
A notable resident of Dundee was Adam Duncan, 1st Viscount Duncan of Camperdown,Baron of Lundie (1 July 1731 to 4 August 1804). He was born in Dundee on 1 July 1731, the son of Alexander Duncan of Lundie, Provost of Dundee. Adam was educated in Dundee and later joined the Royal Navy on board the sloop Trial. He rose to be admiral and in October 1797 defeated the Dutch fleet off Camperdown (north of Haarlem). This was seen as one of the most significant actions in naval history.[34]
The economy of medieval Dundee centred on the export of raw wool, with the production of finished textiles being a reaction to recession in the 15th century.[35] Two government Acts in the mid 18th century had a profound effect on Dundee's industrial success: the textile industry was revolutionised by the introduction of large four-storey mills, stimulated in part by the 1742 Bounty Act which provided a government-funded subsidy onOsnaburg linen produced for export.[36] Expansion of thewhaling industry was triggered by the second Bounty Act, introduced in 1750 to increase Britain's maritime and naval skill base.[37] Dundee, and Scotland more generally, saw rapid population increase at end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century, with the city's population increasing from 12,400 in 1751 to 30,500 in 1821.[38]
The phasing out of the linen export bounty between 1825 and 1832 stimulated demand for cheaper textiles, particularly for cheaper, tough fabrics.[39] The discovery that the dry fibres ofjute could be lubricated withwhale oil (of which Dundee had a surfeit, following the opening of its gasworks) to allow it to be processed in mechanised mills resulted in the Dundee mills rapidly converting from linen to jute, which sold at a quarter of the price of flax.[40] Interruption ofPrussian flax imports during theCrimean War and of cotton during theAmerican Civil War resulted in a period of inflated prosperity for Dundee and the jute industry dominated Dundee throughout the latter half of the 19th century.[41] Unprecedented immigration, notably of Irish workers, led to accelerated urban expansion, and at the height of the industry's success, Dundee supported 62 jute mills, employing some 50,000 workers.[42] Cox Brothers, who owned the massiveCamperdown Works inLochee, were one of the largest jute manufacturers in Europe and employed more than 5,000 workers.[43]
The rise of the textile industries brought with it an expansion of supporting industries, notably of the whaling, maritime and shipbuilding industries,[44] and extensive development of the waterfront area started in 1815 to cope with increased demand for port capacity.[45] At its height, 200 ships per year were built there, includingRobert Falcon Scott's Antarctic research vessel, theRRS Discovery. This ship is now on display at Discovery Point in the city.[46] A significant whaling industry was also based in Dundee, largely existing to supply the jute mills withwhale oil. Whaling ceased in 1912 and shipbuilding ceased in 1981.[47]
The originalTay Bridge (from the south) the day after the disaster. The collapsed section can be seen near the northern end.
While the city's economy was dominated by the jute industry, it also became known for smaller industries. Most notable among these wereJames Keiller's and Sons, established in 1795, which pioneered commercialmarmalade production,[48] and the publishing firmDC Thomson, which was founded in the city in 1905. Dundee was said to be built on the 'three Js': Jute, Jam and Journalism.
The town was also the location of one of the worst rail disasters in British history, theTay Bridge disaster. The firstTay Rail Bridge was opened in 1878. It collapsed some 18 months later during a storm, as a passenger train passed over it, resulting in the loss of 75 lives.[49] Themost destructive fire in the city's history came in 1906, reportedly sending "rivers of burning whisky" through the street.
The jute industry fell into decline in the early 20th century, partly due to reduced demand for jute products and partly due to an inability to compete with the emerging industry inCalcutta.[50] This gave rise to unemployment levels far in excess of the national average, peaking in the inter-war period,[51] but major recovery was seen in the post-war period, thanks to the arrival first of American light engineering companies likeTimex andNCR, and subsequent expansion into microelectronics.[52]
Dundee was the first city in Scotland to gain officialcity status, afterQueen Victoria signed a patent announcing the transition of Dundee from a royal burgh into a city. Dundee would officially gain city status on 26 January 1889. The patent still exists and is kept in storage in the city archives.[53]
A £1 billion master plan to regenerate Dundee Waterfront is expected to last for a 30-year period between 2001 and 2031.[54] The aims of the project are to reconnect the city centre to the waterfront; to improve facilities for walking, cyclists and buses; to replace the existing inner ring road with a pair of east/west tree-lined boulevards; and to provide a new civic square and a regenerated railway station and arrival space at the western edge. A newVictoria and Albert Museum opened on 15 September 2018. A newEden Project attraction is also set to open in Dundee by the 2030s.[55][56][57]
Dundee appears to have been made aburgh sometime between 1181 and 1195.[64] It was then raised toroyal burgh status on the coronation ofJohn Balliol as King of Scotland in 1292.[26] The city has two mottos:Latin:Dei Donum ('Gift of God') andPrudentia et Candore ('With Thought and Purity') although usually only the latter is used for civic purposes.[65]
Dundee was declared a city in 1889, being the first Scottish place to have the title of city explicitly conferred on it rather than assuming it by customary usage.[64] In 1894, Dundee was made acounty of itself, removing it fromAngus.[66] The city's boundaries were enlarged on numerous occasions, notably in 1913 when it absorbed the neighbouring burgh ofBroughty Ferry.[67][68][69]
From 1975 to 1996, Dundee was governed by the City of Dundee District Council, one of three district-level authorities within theTayside region. The district was created under theLocal Government (Scotland) Act 1973 and covered a larger area than the pre-1975 city, taking in the burgh ofMonifieth and most of thelandward district of Monifieth (covering a number of villages north of Dundee) from Angus, and the parish ofLongforgan (which includedInvergowrie) fromPerthshire.[70] In 1996, the Dundee City council area was created under theLocal Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994.[58] Monifieth and the villages north of Dundee itself were transferred back to Angus, and the Longforgan area (including Invergowrie) was transferred toPerth and Kinross, largely reinstating the pre-1975 boundaries. Some controversy has ensued as a result of these boundary changes, with Dundee city councillors arguing for the return of Monifieth and Invergowrie.[71]
On 18 September 2014, Dundee was one of four council areas to vote "Yes" in theScottish independence referendum, with 57.3% voting "Yes" on a 78.8% turnout. With the highest Yes vote for any local authority in Scotland, some in theYes Scotland campaign nicknamed Dundee the "Yes City", including former First MinisterAlex Salmond.[72][73]
Dundee sits on the north bank of theFirth of Tay on the eastern,North Sea Coast of Scotland. The city lies 36.1 miles (58 km)NNE ofEdinburgh[74] and 360.6 miles (580 km)NNW of London.[74] The built-up area occupies a roughly rectangular shape 8.3 miles (13 km) long by 2.5 miles (4 km) wide, aligned in an east to west direction and occupies an area of 60 square kilometres (23 sq mi).[75][76] The town is bisected by a line of hills stretching from Balgay Hill (elevation of 143 m) in the west end of the city, through theDundee Law (174 m) which occupies the centre of the built up area, to Gallow Hill (83 m), betweenBaxter Park and the Eastern Cemetery. North of this ridge lies a valley through which cuts the Dighty Waterburn, the elevation falling to around 45 m. North of the Dighty valley lie theSidlaw Hills, the most prominent hill beingCraigowl Hill (455 m).[75]
A cityscape from the Tay
The western and eastern boundaries of the city are marked by twoburns that are tributaries of theRiver Tay. On the westernmost boundary of the city, the Lochee burn meets the Fowlis burn, forming theInvergowrie burn, which meets the Tay at Invergowrie basin.[75] The Dighty Water enters Dundee from the village ofStrathmartine and marks the boundaries of a number of northern districts of the city, joining the Tay betweenBarnhill andMonifieth.[75] The Scouring burn in the west end of the city and Dens Burn in the east, both of which played important roles in the industrial development of the city, have now beenculverted over.
The land surrounding Dundee, particularly that in the lower lying areas to the west and east of the city, bears high quality soil that is particularly suitable for arable farming. It is predominantly of abrown forest soil type with somegleying, the lower parts being formed from raised beach sands and gravels derived from Old Red Sandstone and lavas.[78]
View from The Law, overlooking Dundee City Centre and the Tay Road Bridge
Very little of pre-Reformation Dundee remains, the destruction suffered in theWar of the Rough Wooing being almost total, with only scattered, roofless shells remaining.[79] The area occupied by the medieval burgh of Dundee extends between East Port and West Port, which formerly held the gates to the walled city. The shoreline has been altered considerably since the early 19th century through development of the harbour area and land reclamation.[80] Several areas on the periphery of the burgh saw industrial development with the building of textile mills from the end of the 18th century. Their placement was dictated by the need for a water supply for the modern steam powered machinery, and areas around the Lochee Burn (Lochee), Scouring Burn (Blackness) and Dens Burn (Dens Road area) saw particular concentrations of mills.[81] The post war period saw expansion of industry to estates along the Kingsway.[82]
Working-class housing spread rapidly and without control throughout the Victorian era, particularly in the Hawkhill, Blackness Road, Dens Road and Hilltown areas.[83] Despite the comparative wealth of Victorian Dundee as a whole, living standards for the working classes were very poor. A general lack of town planning coupled with the influx of labour during the expansion of the jute industry resulted in insanitary, squalid and cramped housing for much of the population.[84] While gradual improvements andslum clearance began in the late 19th century, the building of the groundbreakingLogie housing estate marked the beginning of Dundee's expansion through the building of planned housing estates, under the vision of city architectJames Thomson, whose legacy also includes the housing estate ofCraigiebank and the beginnings of an improved transport infrastructure by planning the Kingsway bypass.[85]
Modernisation of the city centre continued in the post-war period. The medieval Overgate was demolished in the early 1960s to make way for a shopping centre, followed by construction of the inner ring road and the Wellgate Shopping Centre.[86] TheTay Road Bridge, completed in 1966, had as its northern landfall the docklands of central Dundee, and the new associated road system resulted in the city centre being cut off from the river.[87] An acute shortage of housing in the late 1940s was addressed by a series of large housing estates built in the northern environs, including the Fintry, Craigie, Charleston and Douglas areas in the 1950s and early 1960s.[88] These were followed by increasingly cost-effective and sometimes poorly planned housing throughout the 1960s.[89] Much of this, in particular the high-rise blocks of flats at Lochee, Kirkton, Trottick, Whitfield, Ardler and Menzieshill, and the prefabricated Skarne housing blocks at Whitfield, has been demolished since the 1990s or is scheduled for future demolition.[90]
The climate, like the rest of lowland Scotland, isOceanic (Köppen-Geiger classification Cfb).[91] Mean temperature and rainfall are typical for the east coast of Scotland, and with the city's sheltered estuarine position, mean daily maxima are slightly higher than coastal areas to the North, particularly in spring and summer.[92] The summers are still chilly when compared with similar latitudes in continental Europe, something compensated for by the mild winters, similar to the rest of the British Isles. The nearest officialMet Office weather station is Mylnefield,Invergowrie which is about 4 miles (6.4 km) west of the City Centre.
A record high of 29.3 °C (84.7 °F) was recorded in July 2013.[citation needed] The warmest month was July 2006,[93] with an average temperature of 17.4 °C (63.3 °F) (average high 22.5 °C (72.5 °F), average low 12.3 °C (54.1 °F)). In an 'average' year the warmest day should reach[94] 25.2 °C (77.4 °F), and in total just 1.86 days[95] should equal or exceed a temperature of 25.0 °C (77.0 °F) per year, illustrating the rarity of such warmth.
On average, 4.73 days should record a minimum temperature at or below -5 °C and there are 53.26 days of air frost on average. From 1991 to 2020, Mylnefield averaged 0.9 ice days, 50 days with precipitation of more than 5mm and 19.56 days with more than 10mm. The weather station is in plant hardiness zone 10a.[95]
Climate data for Mylnefield, elevation 31m, 1991–2020, extremes 1960–2010
Dundee's recorded population reached a peak of 182,204 at the 1971 census. According to the 2011 census, the City of Dundee had a population of 147,268.[99] A more recent population estimate of the City of Dundee has been recorded at 149,680 in 2020.[100] The demographic make-up of the population is much in line with the rest of Scotland. The age group from 30 to 44 forms the largest portion of the population (20%).[101] The median age of males and females living in Dundee was 37 and 40 years, respectively, compared to 37 and 39 years for those in the whole of Scotland.[101]
The place of birth of the town's residents was 94.16% United Kingdom (including 87.85% from Scotland), 0.42% Ireland, 1.33% from otherEuropean Union (EU) countries, and 3.09% from elsewhere in the world. The economic activity of residents aged 16–74 was 35.92% in full-time employment, 10.42% in part-time employment, 4.25% self-employed, 5.18% unemployed, 7.82% students with jobs, 4.73% students without jobs, 15.15% retired, 4.54% looking after home or family, 7.92% permanently sick or disabled, and 4.00% economically inactive for other reasons. Compared with the average demography of Scotland, Dundee has both low proportions of people born outside the United Kingdom and for people over 75 years old.
Natives of Dundee are called Dundonians and are often recognisable by their distinctive dialect ofScots as well as theiraccent, which most noticeably substitutes themonophthong /ɛ/ (pronounced "eh") in place of thediphthong /aj/ (pronounced "ai").[103] Dundee, and Scotland more generally, saw rapid population increase at end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th century, with the city's population increasing from 12,400 in 1751 to 30,500 in 1821.[38] Of particular significance was an influx of Irish workers in the early to mid-19th century, attracted by the prospect of employment in the textiles industries. In 1851, 18.9% of people living in Dundee were of Irish birth.[104]
The city has also attracted immigrants from Italy, fleeing poverty and famine, in the 19th century Jews, fleeing from the Russia controlled portions of partitioned Poland and from German occupation in the 20th. Today, Dundee has a sizeableethnic minority population, and has around 4,000 Asian residents which is the fourth-largest Asian community in Scotland. The city also has 1.0% of residents from a Black/African/Caribbean background.[105]
Dundee has a higher proportion of university students – one in seven of the population – than any other town in Europe, exceptHeidelberg andTübingen.[106] The 14.2% come from all around the world to attend the local universities and colleges. Dundee is a major attraction for Northern Irish students who make up 5% of the total student population. The city's universities are believed to hold the highest percentage of Northern Irish students outside of Northern Ireland and have a big impact on the local economy and culture. However, this has declined in recent years due to the increase of tuition fees for students elsewhere in the UK. Dundee also has a lot of students from abroad, mostly from the Republic of Ireland and otherEU countries but with an increasing number from countries from the Far East andNigeria.[107]
The proportion of people residing in Dundee born outside the UK was 12.9% in 2022, compared with 9.0% in 2011 and 4.9% in 2001. Below are the fifteen largest overseas-born groups in Dundee according to the 2022 census, alongside the two previous censuses.[114]
Dundee Parish Church, St Mary's is one of three of the Dundee'sCity Churches which are joined; only two function as places of worship: St. Mary's and St. Clement's (the Old Steeple) which can be seen in the background.
TheChurch of ScotlandPresbytery of Dundee is responsible for overseeing the worship of 37 congregations in and around the Dundee area, although changing population patterns have led to some of the churches becoming linked charges.[115] Due to their city centre location, the City Churches,Dundee Parish Church (St Mary's) and theSteeple Church, are the most prominentChurch of Scotland buildings in Dundee. They are on the site of the medieval parish kirk ofSt Mary, of which only the 15th-century west tower survives. The attached church was once the largest parish church in medieval Scotland.[116]
Dundee was unusual among Scottish medieval burghs in having two parish kirks; the second, dedicated toSt Clement, has disappeared, but its site was approximately that of the present City Square.[117] Other presbyterian groups include the Free Church which meet at St. Peters (the historic church ofRobert Murray M'Cheyne).[118]
In theMiddle Ages Dundee was also the site of houses of theDominicans (Blackfriars), andFranciscans (Greyfriars), and had a number of hospitals and chapels. These establishments were sacked during theScottish Reformation, in the mid-16th century, and were reduced to burial grounds, now Barrack Street (also referred to as the Dek-tarn street) andThe Howff burial ground, respectively.[119]
Muslims are served by theDundee Central Mosque, built in 2000 to replace their former premises on the Hilltown.[133] There are three other mosques in the city including Jamia Masjid Tajdare Madina on Victoria Road, Jame Masjid Bilal on Dura Street and Al Maktoum Mosque on Wilkie's Lane. Alongside these there is an Islamic Society on theUniversity of Dundee campus.[134]
TheSikh community is served by the Guru NanakGurdwara on Victoria Road, which serves its community in Dundee.[135]
A recorded Jewish community has existed in the city since the early 19th century.[136] There is a smallOrthodoxsynagogue at Dudhope Park[137] which was built in the 1960s,[138] with the Hebrew Burial Grounds located three miles (4.8 km) to the east.[139] Dundee Buddhist Group is aBuddhist Temple based in Reform Street.[140] There is also aHindumandir in Taylor's Lane, situated in theWest End of the city.[141]
Cox's Stack, a chimney from the formerCamperdown Works jute mill. The chimney takes its name from jute baron James Cox who later becameProvost of the city.
In 1911 40% of the city's population was employed in the jute industry. By 1951 this had dropped to 20%, and now is effectively zero.[142] The period following World War II was notable for the transformation of the city's economy. While jute still employed one-fifth of the working population, new industries were attracted and encouraged.NCR Corporation selected Dundee as the base of operations for the UK in late 1945,[143] primarily because of the lack of damage the city had sustained in the war, good transport links and high productivity from long hours of sunshine. Production started in the year before the official opening of the plant on 11 June 1947. A fortnight after the tenth anniversary of the plant the 250,000th cash register was produced. By the 1960s, NCR had become the principal employer of the city producingcash registers, and laterATMs, at several of its Dundee plants. The firm developed magnetic-strip readers for cash registers and produced early computers.[144] Astral, a Dundee-based firm that manufactured and soldrefrigerators andspin dryers was merged intoMorphy Richards and rapidly expanded to employ over 1,000 people. The development in Dundee of aMichelintyre-production facility helped to absorb the unemployment caused by the decline of the jute industry, particularly with the abolition of the jute control by theBoard of Trade on 30 April 1969.[145]
Employment in Dundee changed dramatically during the 1980s with the loss of nearly 10,000 manufacturing jobs due to closure of the shipyards, cessation of carpet manufacturing and the disappearance of the jute trade. To combat growing unemployment and declining economic conditions, Dundee was declared anEnterprise Zone in January 1984. In 1983, the firstZX Spectrumhome computers were produced in Dundee byTimex. In the same year the company broke production records, despite asit-in by workers protesting against job cuts and plans to demolish one of the factory buildings to make way for a supermarket. Timex closed its Dundee plant in 1993 following an acrimonious six-monthindustrial dispute.[146] The Michelin Tyre factory closed in June 2020, with the loss of 850 jobs.[147]
Dundee is a regional employment and education centre, with around 325,000 people within 30 minutes' drive of the city centre and 860,000 people within one hour.[148] Many people fromNorth East Fife, Angus andPerth and Kinross commute to the city.[149] As of 2015, there were 395 employers who employed 250 or more staff; over a five-year period (2011–2015) the number of registered enterprises in Dundee increased by 20.9% from 2,655 to 3,210.[149] The largest employers in the city areNHS Tayside, Dundee City Council,University of Dundee, Tayside Contracts,Tesco,D. C. Thomson & Co andBT.[149] Several government agencies and public sector organisations are based in Dundee, such as theCare Inspectorate (Scotland), theScottish Social Services Council andSocial Security Scotland.
Ninewells Hospital, one of the largest employers in the Dundee area
Other employers include limited and private companies such asNCR,Michelin,Alliance Trust,Aviva,Royal Bank of Scotland,Asda,Stagecoach Strathtay,Tokheim,Scottish Citylink, Rochen Limited, C J Lang & Son (SPAR Scotland), Joinery and Timber Creations,Xplore Dundee, andW. L. Gore and Associates. Between 2009 and 2014 the hardest-hit sectors, in terms of jobs, were Information and Communication, Construction and Manufacturing which each lost around 500 full-time jobs. By contrast, the Professional, Scientific and Technical sector saw an upsurge in jobs in addition to the Business Administration and Support Service sector which increased by approximately 1,000 full-time and 300 part-time jobs in the same six-year period.[149] Gross median weekly earnings of full-time employees in Dundee in 2015 was £523.50; men received £563.40 and women £451.80.[149] Gross weekly pay for all employees in Dundee has increased from £325.00 in 2000 to £380.00 in 2015.[149]
Thebiomedical andbiotechnology sectors, including start-up biomedical companies arising from university research, employ just under 1,000 people directly and nearly 2,000 indirectly. Information technology andvideo game development have been important industries in the city for more than 20 years.[150]
Evening in Dundee docks with the Apex Hotel in the background
Dundee is also a key retail destination for North East Scotland and has been ranked fourth in Retail Rankings in Scotland.[152] The city centre offers a wide variety of retailers, department stores and independent/specialist stores. The Murraygate and High Street forms the main pedestrian area and is home to a number of main anchors such asMarks and Spencer,Accessorise.[152] The main pedestrian area also connects the two large shopping centres; the 420,000-square-foot (39,000-square-metre) Overgate Centre which is anchored byPrimark,H&M,Next, Argos, andThe Perfume Shop and the 310,000-square-foot (29,000-square-metre) Wellgate Centre byHome Bargains,T. J. Hughes, B&M, Superdrug, Iceland, Holland & Barrett, Poundland, Savers, The Works, Hydro Electric,[152] Other retail areas in the city include Gallagher Retail Park, Kingsway East Retail Park and Kingsway West Retail Park.[152] The new Myrekirk Retail Park opened in 2022.[153]
Dundee is served by theA90 road, which connects the city to theM90 andPerth in the west withForfar andAberdeen in the north. The part of the road that is in the city is adual carriageway and forms the city's main bypass on its north side, known as the Kingsway. East of the A90's Forfar Road junction, the Kingsway East continues as theA972 and meets theA92 at the Scott Fyffe roundabout. Travelling east, the A92 connects the city toArbroath andMontrose and to the south withFife, via theTay Road Bridge.
TheA930 links the city with coastal settlements to the east, includingMonifieth andCarnoustie. Progressing westward from where the A92 meets the Tay Road Bridge at the Riverside Roundabout, theA85 follows the southern boundary of the city along Riverside Drive and towards the A90 at the Swallow Roundabout. The A85 multiplexes with the A90 and diverges again at Perth.
Also meeting the A92 and A85 at the Riverside Roundabout is theA991 Inner Ring Road, which surrounds the perimeter of the city centre, returning to the A92 on the east side of the Tay Road Bridge. TheA923 Dundee toDunkeld road meets the A991 at the Dudhope Roundabout, and theA929 links the A991 to the A90 via Forfar Road.
Dundee has an extensive network of bus routes. TheSeagate bus station is the city's main terminus for journeys out of town.Xplore Dundee operates most of the intra-city services, with other more rural services operated byStagecoach Strathtay and Moffat & Williamson.[154] The city's two railway stations are the mainDundee station, near the waterfront, which has now finished re-construction as part of the waterfront re-development programme and the much smallerBroughty Ferry station at the eastern end of the city.
The cargo port of Dundee is one of the largest economic generators in the city and is operated byForth Ports. Seafarers arriving at the port are offered welfare and pastoral assistance by seafarers charityApostleship of the Sea. The seaport in recent years has saw a significant increase in cruises arriving at port. In 2023,Ambassador Cruise Line made Dundee a port call following the launch of their second shipAmbition.[155] Cruises from Dundee depart toNorway,Denmark, France, Spain, Sweden,Belgium andthe Netherlands.[156]
Dundee College is the city's umbrellafurther education college, which was established in 1985 as an institution of higher education and vocational training. As of 2013, it merged withAngus College inArbroath, to becomeDundee and Angus College (D&A college). The Al-Maktoum College of Higher Education was established in Dundee in Blackness Road in 2002. It is a research-led institution of higher education which are currently offering programmes accredited bySQA in the study ofIslam andMuslims, Arabic language and Islamic Economics and Finance. It is an independent institution. It is named after its patron,Hamdan bin Rashid Al Maktoum.[166]
Morgan Academy Dundee
Schools in Dundee have a pupil enrolment of over 20,300. There are 37 primary state schools and 8 secondary state schools in the city. There are 11 primary and 2 secondary Roman Catholic denominational schools which, as in the rest of Scotland, are open to children of all denominations.[167] The remainder are non-denominational.[168] There is also one specialist school that caters for pupils with learning difficulties aged between five and 18 from Dundee and the surrounding area.[169]
Dundee made a bid to be named the 2017UK City of Culture, and on 19 June 2013 was named as one of the four short-listed cities alongsideHull,Leicester andSwansea Bay.[174] Ultimately, Dundee's bid was unsuccessful, with Hull winning the contest.[175] Dundee came in fifth place in a newspaper survey regarding numbers of cultural venues in the United Kingdom, ahead of other Scottish cities.[176][177]
In August 2021, Dundee made a joint bid withPerth and Kinross,Angus andFife for the UK City of Culture again in 2025 under the title of 'Tay Cities'.[178]
The city's main museum and art gallery,McManus Galleries, is in Albert Square.[181] The exhibits include work byJames McIntosh Patrick,Alberto Morrocco andDavid McClure amongst the collection of fine and decorative art, items from Dundee's history and natural history artefacts.Dundee Contemporary Arts (abbreviated DCA) opened in 1999 is an international art centre in the Nethergate close to Dundee Rep, which houses two contemporary art galleries, a two-screen arthouse cinema, a print studio, a visual research centre and a café bar.[182] Britain's only full-time publicobservatory,Mills Observatory at the summit of the city'sBalgay Hill, was given to the city by linen manufacturer and keen amateur scientist John Mills in 1935.[183]Dundee Science Centre in the Greenmarket is a science centre based on the five senses with a series of interactive shows and exhibits.[184]Verdant Works is a museum dedicated to the once dominant jute industry in Dundee and is based in a former jute mill.[185]
TheUniversity of Dundee also runs several public museums and galleries, including the D'Arcy Thompson Zoology Museum and the Tayside Medical History Museum. The university, throughDuncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design also offers the Cooper Gallery for contemporary art, and its archives including: the abcD (artists' books collection Dundee); the REWIND Archive (video art collection); and theRichard Demarco Digital Archive.
TheV&A Dundee Museum of Design opened in September 2018 and is built south of Craig Harbour onto theRiver Tay in a building designed byKengo Kuma. It was officially opened by theEarl and Countess of Strathearn in 2019.[186] It is the centrepiece of the city's waterfront redevelopment. The new museum may bring another 500,000 extra visitors to the city and create up to 900 jobs.[187]
"The Riders of the Sidhe" John Duncan 1911 McManus Galleries, Dundee
The city's archival records are mostly kept by two archives: Dundee City Archives, operated byDundee City Council and theUniversity of Dundee's Archive Services.Dundee City Archives holds the official records of the city and of the formerTayside Regional Council.[188] The archive also holds the records of various people, groups and organisations connected to the city. The university's Archive Services hold a wide range of material relating to the university and its predecessor institutions and to individuals associated with the university, such asD'Arcy Wentworth Thompson. Archive Services also holds the archives of several individuals, businesses and organisations based in Dundee and the surrounding area.[189] The records held include a substantial number of business archives relating to the jute and linen industry in Dundee; records of other businesses including the archives of theAlliance Trust and the department store G. L. Wilson; the records of the Brechin Diocese of theScottish Episcopal Church; and theNHS Tayside Archive.[190][191] The same archive also holds theMichael Peto collection which includes thousands of thephotojournalist's photographs, negatives, slides, publications and papers.[192]
Dundee has a strong literary heritage, with several authors having been born, lived or studied in the city. These includeA. L. Kennedy,Rosamunde Pilcher,Kate Atkinson,Thomas Dick,Mary Shelley, Mick McCluskey,John Burnside andNeil Forsyth. TheDundee International Book Prize is a biennial competition open to new authors, offering a prize of £10,000 and publication by Polygon Books. Past winners have included: Andrew Murray Scott, Claire-Marie Watson and Malcolm Archibald.William McGonagall, regularly cited as the "world's worst poet",[193] worked and wrote in the city, often giving performances of his work in pubs and bars. Many of his poems are about the city and events therein, such as his workThe Tay Bridge Disaster.
Dundee's poetic heritage is represented by the 2013 poetry anthologyWhaleback City edited by W. N. Herbert and Andy Jackson (Dundee University Press) containing poems by McGonagall, Don Paterson, Douglas Dunn, John Burnside and many others. City of Recovery Press was founded in Dundee, and has become a controversial figure in documenting the darker side of the city.[194]
The Dundee Mountain Film Festival (DMFF), held in the last weekend of November, presents the best presenters and films of the year in mountaineering, mountain culture and adventure sport, along with an art and trade exhibition.[195] DMFF is also one of the members of International Alliance for Mountain Film (IAMF)[196] among other important internationalmountain film festivals.
Dundee Contemporary Arts hosts an annual horror film festival calledDundead, which started in 2011.[197] It also hosts the Discovery Film Festival, an international film festival targeted for young audiences.[198]
Dundee has hosted theNational Mod a number of times – 1902, 1913, 1937, 1959 and 1974.[203]
Dundee also hostedBBC Radio 1's Big Weekend back in 2006 and was due to host for a second time in 2020 but it was cancelled due to theCOVID-19 pandemic. Dundee hosted the event again on 26th-28 May 2023 at Camperdown Park in the north-west of the city.[204]
Dundee is home to DC Thomson & Co. Ltd, established in 1905, which produces over 200 million magazines, newspapers and comics every year; these includeThe Beano,The Dandy andThe Press and Journal.[152]
Dundee is home to one of elevenBBC Scotland broadcasting centres, located within the Nethergate Centre.[209]STV North's Tayside news and advertising operations are based in the Seabraes area of the city, from where anSTV News Tayside opt-out bulletin is broadcast, (though not on Digital Satellite), within the nightly regional news programme,STV News at Six. The city also had a community internet TV station called The Dundee Channel which was launched on 1 September 2009.
Dundee formerly had three local radio stations that were based in the city. Radio Tay was launched on 17 October 1980.[210] The station split frequencies in January 1995, launchingTay FM for a younger audience and Tay AM playing classic hits (now calledGreatest Hits Radio Tayside & Fife). Neither Tay FM or Greatest Hits Radio are based within the city of Dundee, with their only locally targeted show (Tay FM breakfast) being broadcast from a Bauer studio in Edinburgh. In 1999, Discovery 102 was launched, later to be renamedWave 102 following a claim byThe Discovery Channel that the station could mistakenly be linked to its brand. The station was further rebranded to Wave FM and Pure Radio. The 102FM frequency now carries a relay of Aberdeen-based radio stationOriginal 106 (Scotland) which features news, content and commercials tailored for Tayside.
St Mary's Tower, oldest building in Dundee, dating to late 15th century
The city and its landscape are dominated byThe Law and theFirth of Tay. The Law, a large hill to the north of theCity Centre was the site of anIron AgeHill Fort, upon which the Law War Memorial, designed by Thomas Braddock, was erected in 1921 to commemorate the fallen ofWorld War I.[211] The waterfront, much altered byreclamation in the 19th century, retains several of the docks that once were the hub of the jute and whaling industries, including the Camperdown and Victoria Docks.[212] The Victoria Dock is the home of the frigateHMSUnicorn and theNorth Carr Lightship, whileCaptain Scott'sRRSDiscovery occupies Craig Pier, from where the ferries toFife once sailed.
The oldest building in the city is St Mary's Tower, which dates from the late 15th century.[213] This forms part of the City Churches, which consist of St Clement's Church, dating to 1787–8 and built by Samuel Bell, Old St Paul's and St David's Church, built in 1841–42 byWilliam Burn, and St Mary's Church, rebuilt in 1843–44, also by Burn, following a fire.[214] Other significant churches in the city include the Gothic RevivalSt Paul's Episcopal Cathedral, built bySir George Gilbert Scott in 1853 on the former site of Dundee Castle in the High Street,[215] and the CatholicSt. Andrew's Cathedral, built in 1835 by George Mathewson in Nethergate.[216]
As a result of the destruction suffered during theRough Wooing, little of the mediaeval city (aside from St Mary's Tower) remains and the earliest surviving domestic structures date from theEarly Modern Era. A notable example is the Wishart Arch (or East Port) in Cowgate. It is the last surviving portion of the city walls. Dating from prior to 1548, it owes its continued existence to its association with the ProtestantmartyrGeorge Wishart, who is said to have preached to plague victims from the East Port in 1544.[217] Another is the building complex on the High Street known asGardyne's Land, parts of which date from around 1560.[218]The Howff burial ground in the northern part of the City Centre also dates from this time; it was given to the city by Mary Queen of Scots in 1564, having previously served as the grounds of aFranciscan abbey.[219]
Claypotts Castle, dating from the late 16th century
Several castles can be found in Dundee, mostly from the Early Modern Era. The earliest parts ofMains Castle in Caird Park were built by David Graham in 1562 on the site of a hunting lodge of 1460.[220]Dudhope Castle, originally the seat of the Scrymgeour family, dates to the late 16th century and was built on the site of a keep of 1460.[221]Claypotts Castle, a striking Z plan castle in West Ferry, was built by John Strachan and dates from 1569 to 1588.[222] In 1495Broughty Castle was built and remained in use as a major defensive structure until 1932, playing a role in theAnglo-Scottish Wars and theWars of the Three Kingdoms. The castle stands on a shallow tip projecting into the Firth, alongside two beaches, one of sand, the other of pebbles. The ruins ofPowrie Castle, north of Fintry, date from the 16th-century castle north.[clarification needed][223]
North of the City Churches, at the end of Reform Street, lies theHigh School of Dundee, built in 1829–34 by George Angus in a Greek Revival style.[224] Another school building of note isMorgan Academy on Forfar Road, built in 1863, designed byJohn Dick Peddie in a Dutch Gothic style.[225]
Dundee's industrial history as a centre for textile production is apparent throughout the city. Numerous former jute mills remain standing and while some lay derelict, many have been converted for other uses. Of particular note are the Tay Works, built by the Gilroy Brothersc. 1850–1865,[226]Camperdown Works in Lochee, which built and owned by Cox Brothers, one of Europe's largest jute manufacturing companies, and begun in 1849,[227][228] and Upper Dens Mill and Lower Dens Works, built by the Baxter Brothers in the mid-19th century.[229]
James Duncan Mitchell, died on the Lusitania in 1915, interred at Western Cemetery, Dundee
A more recent landmark is the 140-foot (43 m) Tower Building of theUniversity of Dundee built between 1959 and 1961. At the time of its construction only the Old Steeple was taller in the city. The Tower was built to replace the original college buildings which stood on the site.[230][231] The building houses the university's main administration and includes galleries and the university's Archive, Records Management and Museum Services.[232]
Many 1960s landmark multi-storey housing buildings were demolished in the late 2000s. The former Tayside House block, nicknamed 'Faulty Towers' by many local people, was demolished in 2013 as part of the waterfront redevelopment program.[233] According to the architectural historianCharles McKean and his co-authors of Lost Dundee, the best views in the city were from Tayside House, because these were the only views from which the building itself could not be seen.[234]
Dundee has two professionalfootball clubs:Dundee, founded in 1893, andDundee United, founded in 1909 as Dundee Hibernian. Dundee FC and Dundee United currently play in theScottish Premiership. Their groundsthe ScotFoam Stadium andTannadice Park are just 100 metres apart, closer together than any other football stadiums in the UK. TheDundee derby is one of the most highly anticipated fixtures in Scottish football.
Dundee Stars, the mainice hockey team, play at theDundee Ice Arena. The team joined theElite League in the2010/2011 season.[239] They are one of three professional ice hockey teams in Scotland, and play against teams from England, Wales and Northern Ireland in the Elite League. In the 2013/2014 season, Dundee Stars won the Gardiner Conference trophy, their only one to date. The majority of the players are from Canada and the United States. Marc LeFebvre is the current head coach and general manager of the Dundee Stars.[citation needed]
Local sports clubs includeDundee Handball Club, Grove Menzieshill Hockey Club; Dundee Wanderers Hockey Club, Dundee Volleyball Club,[244] Dundee Northern LightsFloorball Club, Dundee Hawkhill Harriers, Dundee City Aquatics,Dundee Hurricanes,Dundee Roller Derby and Dundee & Angus Radio Controlled Car Klub (DARCCK).
Waste management is handled byDundee City Council. There is a kerbside recycling scheme that currently only serves 15,500 households in Dundee. Cans, glass and plastic bottles are collected on a weekly basis.[246]Compostable material and non-recyclable material are collected on alternate weeks.[247] Paper is collected for recycling on a four-weekly basis.[248]
Recycling centres and points are at a number of locations in Dundee.[249] Items accepted include steel and aluminium cans, cardboard, paper, electrical equipment, engine oil, fridges and freezers, garden waste, gas bottles, glass, liquid food and drinks cartons, plastic bottles, plastic carrier bags, rubble, scrap metal, shoes and handbags, spectacles, textiles, tin foil, wood and yellow pages. Recent figures taken in 2008, suggest the city council has a recycling rate of 36.1%.[250]
Law enforcement is provided by Police Scotland. The headquarters of the Dundee Branch of Police Scotland is situated in West Bell Street.[251] There are also four police stations which serve the city: Maryfield, Lochee, Downfield and Longhaugh.[251]
Healthcare is supplied in the area byNHS Tayside.Ninewells Hospital, is the only hospital with an accident and emergency department in the area. Dundee is also served by the East Central Region of theScottish Ambulance Service which covers the city, Tayside and Kingdom of Fife.[252] There is one ambulance station for the city; on West School Road.[253]
TheScottish Fire and Rescue Service operate three fire stations, covering the city and surrounding villages. The main station is at Blackness Road and there is a control room at Macalpine Road fire station.
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