Photochrom of Loch Promenade during a storm, 1890sDouglas Promenade, which runs nearly the entire length of beachfront in DouglasSea terminal in Douglas
Douglas (Manx:Doolish,pronounced[ˈdðuːlʲəʃ]) is thecapital city and largest settlement of theIsle of Man, with a population of 26,677 (2021) and an area of 4.1 square miles (10.5 km2). It is located at the mouth of theRiver Douglas, and on a sweeping bay of two miles (three kilometres). The River Douglas forms part of thecity's harbour and main commercial port.
Douglas was a small settlement until it grew rapidly as a result of links with the English port ofLiverpool in the 18th century. Further population growth came in the following century, resulting during the 1860s in a staged transfer of the High Courts, the Lieutenant Governor's residence (actually located in nearby Onchan), and finally the seat of the legislature,Tynwald, to Douglas[1] from the ancient capital,Castletown.
The city is the island's main hub for business, finance, legal services, shipping, transport, shopping, and entertainment. The annualIsle of Man TT motorcycle races start and finish in Douglas.
It is generally agreed that the toponyms of EnglishDouglas andManxDoolish both come fromProto-Celtic *duboglassio-, where *dubo- (which survives today inWelsh asdu andIrish asdubh) meant 'black; deep' and *glassio- (surviving in Welshglais and Irishglais) meant 'water, river'; thus, it probably meant 'deep river'.[2] The name of the city thus came from a nearby river. It is a common name for place names around theBritish Isles, related to other toponyms such as Dyfleis,Dulais, Develish,Dawlish,Dowlish and, of course, other settlements namedDouglas.
In the absence of anyarchaeological data, the origins of the city may be revealed by analysis of the original street and plot pattern. The discovery of abronze weapon in central Douglas,[3] and the large BallaquayleViking treasure hoard[4] on the outskirts (now in theManx Museum andBritish Museum, London[5]), both in the 1890s, hint at the early importance of the site now occupied by Douglas. Scholars agree that the name of the city derives from Early Celtic 'Duboglassio' meaning 'black river'.[6] Douglas is twice referred to in the monasticChronicle of the Kings of Man and the Isles: first in 1190, when the monks ofSt Mary's Abbey at Rushen were transferred there for a four-year stay; then again in 1313, whenRobert the Bruce, King of Scotland, spent the night at the "monastery of Duglas" on his way to seizeCastle Rushen.[7] These may be references to the site of the later Nunnery, a little upstream from the port.
The first detailed documentation shows that in 1511[8] there were only thirteen resident households in the settlement clustered north of the harbour; most of the property there was classified as "chambers"[9] (unoccupied, unheated, single-celled structures) for which rent was paid by non-residents including clergy, officials and landowners from elsewhere on the island. This suggests that the city's nucleus originated as a non-urban port.[10] Speculation links the store buildings with the Irish Sea herring fishery, and the import/export trade.
In 1681 Thomas Denton described Douglas as "the place of greatest resort" on the Isle of Man, and by 1705 a clear picture of the early town emerges, with hints that its residential, market, and military defence functions were growing in importance[11] alongside the port facility. The town thrived in the next 60 years, as imposing merchants' houses, large warehouses, quays and a pier were built to accommodate the burgeoning "running trade" (smuggling): one of the stimuli for the town's expansion.[12] Other forms of trade also grew, and after theRevestment Act 1765, Douglas began to reap the benefits of transatlantic trade, due in part to co-operation at a local level withLiverpool.[13] Legitimate merchants who rose to prominence over the period included the Murreys, the Moores, and the Bacons.[13] The town's later prosperity was facilitated by the low cost of living, and the favourable legal status enjoyed byEnglish debtors andhalf-pay officers.[14] The initial growth and development of the ALR owed much to its natural harbour (now the Inner Harbour), since greatly expanded and improved. Over the 18th century, the town's population rose from about 800 in 1710 to nearly 2,500 in 1784.
Throughout the 19th century, the town's demographics followed the same trends as the United Kingdom, due to theIndustrial Revolution. The number of holiday visitors grew from the early 19th century,[13] and from around 1870 onwards, the town was transformed into a leading holiday resort. But there were increasingly unsanitary conditions, and poor quality housing; again reflecting a trend seen across the United Kingdom.[15] The opensewage,middens (domestic waste dumps), and smell from the harbour at low tide all contributed to the town's uncleanliness. Oil and gas lamps first appeared in the late 1820s and 1830s, the first hospital to join theDispensary was built in 1850, and in 1832 the scenicTower of Refuge was built in Douglas Bay to offer shelter and provisions for sailors awaiting rescue.[16] Douglas in the first half of the 19th century often suffered from the destitution of its population and the many epidemics, in particularcholera.[13]
The rise of Douglas as the social and economic stronghold was recognised in 1869, when it became the home of the island's parliament,Tynwald, and therefore the capital, an honour previously held byCastletown, a smaller town in the south of the island. Douglas's political landscape also changed significantly in the 19th century, in spite of the conservatism of some townsfolk: in 1844, for example, at a public meeting, the idea of atown council was rejected in favour of retaining the system of Town High Bailiffs; when the Town Bill Act was passed at Tynwald in 1852, the people of Douglas again rejected the idea. However, an Act passed later that decade, which did not include opt-out clauses, was accepted, and in 1860, Douglas elected its first town council, which was predominantlymiddle class in its makeup. The Town Commissioners could tackle the town's problems with greater efficiency, and by 1869 the sewage problem had been largely resolved.[13]
The Commissioners also worked to alter the anachronistic architecture of Douglas, built during the era of fishing and trading, and no longer amenable or safe for tourists. The proportion of the total Manx population living in Douglas was also expanding, with 35% living there by 1891. TheVictorian and later modernisation of the town was achieved at the expense of the original maze-like layout of the oldest streets. These were cleared away in the new street schemes and slum clearances of the 1870s to 1920s. The town's infrastructure was radically altered for tourists' convenience, and in 1878 the Loch Promenade was constructed. In 1870, there were 60,000 visitors annually; by 1884, this had grown to 182,000. In 1887, 310,916 visited forQueen Victoria's Golden Jubilee.[13]
The earliest organised ferry services emerged between Douglas and Whitehaven, established by William Nicholson in the 1750s.[17] More formally, Nicholson's Packet Service began in 1765 or 1766, and the Post Office mail contract was secured by 1782. Sailings were irregular and heavily dependent on weather conditions. Steamer services brought a considerable improvement; the first regular link (en route between Greenock and Liverpool) was available from 1819.[18] The formation of what became theIsle of Man Steam Packet Company in 1830 led to greatly improved services, and also laid the foundations for growth in both cargo and tourist traffic.[19]
TheRoyal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) has alifeboat station at Douglas. The first lifeboat station in the port was established in 1802. In 1825 it was one of the first lifeboat stations to be provided with a purpose-built lifeboat; this was at the request of SirWilliam Hillary, the founder of the Institution. It was not operational between 1851 and 1868, and it closed in 1895. The station, established in 1874, operates theTyne-class lifeboatSir William Hillary. There are three memorials to Sir William in Douglas: one in St George's Church where he was buried in 1847, one on Loch Promenade, and the other on Douglas Head near where he established theTower of Refuge in 1832.[20]
During theFirst andSecond World Wars, some parts of Douglas and elsewhere in the Isle of Man were home tointernment camps for "enemy aliens". Douglas held seven out of the ten internment camps on the island during World War II, including:Hutchinson,Metropole, Central, Palace, Granville andSefton Camp. Sections of the Promenade were cordoned off and many guest houses were used for the purpose. The war dead of the island are commemorated on theDouglas War Memorial.
Douglas is now the main home of the island's offshore financial services industry, and also of the main shopping centre.
On 20 May 2022, it was announced that, as part of thePlatinum Jubilee Civic Honours, Douglas would receivecity status byLetters Patent sometime later in 2022.[21][22] The letters patent was expected to be effective from 1 November 2022,[23][24] although there were some reports in November 2022 that it was somehow delayed following thedeath of Queen Elizabeth II, to a unknown date.[25][26] A council meeting was said to discuss the issue in February 2023,[27] but it was not discussed.[28]Queen Camilla presented Letters Patent conferring city status on 20 March 2024.[29]
Aerial view of Douglas and the southern half of the Isle of Man
Douglas is on the east of the island near theconfluence of the two riversDhoo andGlass forming theDouglas. At Douglas, the river flows through thequay and intoDouglas Bay. A gently sloping valley runs inland and there are hills around the city.The city is surrounded by several villages, most notablyOnchan to the north-east (which forms aconurbation with Douglas) andUnion Mills to the west.
The weather reporting station closest to Douglas is the coastal weather station atRonaldsway, about 7 miles (11 km) south-west of Douglas. The highest temperature recorded in Ronaldsway stands at 28.9 °C (84.0 °F),[30] recorded in July 1983. On average, a temperature of 25 °C (77 °F) or more is recorded 0.8 days per year[31] at Ronaldsway (1981–2010) and on average the highest temperature of the year is 24.1 °C (75.4 °F).[32]
On average, 14.5 days of air frost per year were recorded at Ronaldsway[33] in the period 1981–2010. The lowest temperature recorded in Ronaldsway is −9.1 °C (15.6 °F),[34] recorded in December 1961. For the period of 1981–2010, the lowest temperature of the year was −3.4 °C (25.9 °F) on average.[35]
The Isle of Man census 2021 lists the population of Douglas as 26,677, a reduction from the 2011 population of 27,938. The 2001 census gave a population of 25,347. The city has 31.73% of the island's total population of 84,069.
Douglas elects eight members of the House of Keys: two each from four constituencies (Central, East, South and North). The House of Keys is the lower house ofTynwald, the Manx parliament. The local authority responsible for the running of services isDouglas City Council (formerly Douglas Borough Council), which has 12[36] elected councillors.
Douglas is the hub of the island's bus network, with frequent services to Port Erin, Peel and Ramsey, as well as various more local bus services. The city also has the termini of the two main railway lines on the island: thesteam railway to Port Erin and theelectric tramway to Ramsey. It is also the home of theferry terminal, from where theIsle of Man Steam Packet Company operates regular services toHeysham and to Liverpool (Birkenhead in winter) and occasional services to Dublin and to Belfast.
References to education in Douglas begin in the late 17th century, with mention of the schoolmastership, usually combined with the Chaplaincy of Douglas, and reference to a "petty school" in 1675.[39] William Walker (1679–1729) was appointed to the mastership in 1700;[40] school was probably kept in the old Chapel, in later Heywood Place.)[41] Walker was laterpreferred as Rector of Ballaugh, and received an honorary Doctorate. He is now remembered in his mother's Manx Gaelic lament on her sons: "Illiam Walkeras Robin Tear".[42]
Seafront, Douglas
The more formal history of education in the city begins with Bishop Thomas Wilson's establishment of the Douglas Grammar School. Alderman William Dixon (a native of Douglas, but resident in Dublin since at least the 1680s[43]) agreed to hand over his parents' former home, and passed over the New Bond Street property in 1714. The Bishop raised an endowment of £500 (Irish currency), half being funded by the Barrow Trustees, most of the balance being provided by the Bishop's Douglas relatives, the Murrey family.[44] Even after this, the mastership of Douglas Grammar School continued to be combined with the Chaplaincy, now of the new Chapel of St Matthew. Details of the building of the original Grammar School are sparse, but it seems that William Murrey was deeply involved, retaining the use of the capacious storage vault under the school in lieu of repayment of £150 costs.[45]
Another notable Master of the Grammar School was Rev. Philip Moore (1705–1783) who was a native of the city, his father Robert Moore having been one of the "Undertakers" who organised the construction of St Matthews,[46] and his mother Miss Katherine Kelly. Moore was appointed Master in 1735, and was reckoned to be a good classical scholar, and have "an inherent love of teaching".[47]
Ahorse tram passes a pedestrian crossing on Douglas promenadeDouglas during the 1992 TT Races
Douglas has a number of attractions and items of interest:
TheTower of Refuge is a small castle-like shelter built upon Conister Rock in Douglas Bay as a sanctuary for shipwrecked sailors. Construction was instigated by SirWilliam Hillary, founder of theRNLI.
Douglas Head is home to theGrand Union Camera Obscura which has recently undergone restoration and is open to the public during the summer months. Other artefacts and remnants of Victorian Tourism can still be found on walks around the area.
The Grandstand on Glencrutchery Road marks the start and finish of the annualTT Races and various other motorsports.
TheGaiety Theatre and the Villa Marina are popular venues for all manner of stage acts: from rock music to comedy to drama to ballet. The Gaiety Theatre is one of the best surviving examples of the work ofFrank Matcham and dates from 1900. Both venues have recently[when?] undergone extensive renovations.
The award-winningManx Museum in Kingswood Grove contains many of the most important cultural artefacts relating to the Manx nation. Highlights include the Calf of Man Crucifixion Stone, the Pagan Lady's necklace from the Viking excavations at Peel Castle, and the largest collection ofArchibald Knox materials. It also houses the National Art Collection, and the National Archives.
Other buildings of interest include Isola restaurant, in John Street, and the Douglas Hotel, on the North Quay, both merchants' houses from the mid-18th century; theCastle Mona (formerly the Quality Hotel), a seaside mansion built byJohn Murray, 4th Duke of Atholl in 1804, awaiting refurbishment; and the Loch Promenade, a curving terrace of former boarding houses dating from the 1870s.
Douglas saw the first architectural essays of the Arts and Crafts architectBaillie Scott.
The breakwater extension was built outside the existing smaller one, which carried arail-mounted crane. It was completed in 1983 and opened byPrincess Alexandra.
The Sunken Gardens on Loch Promenade were created as a result of the widening of the promenade at the turn of the 20th century. A construction line was installed for this task.
The Isle of Man Cricket Club was formed in 1930 and later reformed as the IoM Cricket Association. It was elected a member of the International Cricket Council in 2004.[48]
Douglas Rugby Club andVagabonds Rugby Club are based in the city. Their 1st teams play in the English competitions and reserve teams play in the Manx Rugby competition.
Arthur Forbes, 9th Laird of Culloden DL FRSE (1819 in Douglas - 1879 in Aldershot) a noted Scottish landowner and amateur botanist. He was Deputy Lieutenant of Nairn and Ross
Thomas Edward Brown (1830 in Douglas – 1897) a scholar, teacher, poet and theologian
Admiral Sir ThomasHugh Binney KCB KCMG DSO (1883 in Douglas – 1953 in Colchester) a senior officer in the Royal Navy andGovernor of Tasmania from 1945 to 1951
Sidney Nowell Rostron (1883 in Douglas – 1948) a Church of England priest, theologian, and academic. He was the first Principal of St John's College, Durham, 1909 to 1911
Bertram Kelly (1884 in Douglas – 1976) brought electricity to the Island
Toni Onley OC (1928–2004) a Manx painter noted for his landscapes and abstract works, he moved to Canada in 1948 and lived inBrantford, Ontario
Bryan Kneale RA (born 1930) a Manx artist and sculptor, described by BBC News Online as"one of the Isle of Man's best known artists."
Sir Barry Gibb, CBE (born 1946) a British singer, songwriter and record producer who is the last living member of TheBee Gees
Maurice Gibb, CBE (1949–2003) a British singer, songwriter, multi-instrumentalist and record producer who achieved fame as a member of theBee Gees
Robin Gibb CBE (1949–2012) a British singer, songwriter and record producer, who gained worldwide fame as a member of theBee Gees
Francis Magee (born 1959 in Dublin) an Irish-Manx actor, best known for his portrayal ofLiam Tyler in the long-running British soap operaEastEnders from 1993 to 1995; raised on the Isle of Man
Jamie Blackley (born 1991) a British actor, known for his role as Adam Wilde in the filmIf I Stay
Amy Jackson (born 1992) a Manx-born, Liverpool raised actress, who appears inIndian movies
Joe Locke (born 2003) a Manx actor, best known for his portrayal of Charlie Spring in theNetflix seriesHeartstopper
View of the bay showing visible landmarks of the Castle Mona hotel staircase turret (centre) andOnchan Head to leftDouglas promenade with Onchan Head in distance
^D. Winterbottom, 2012, Governors of the Isle of Man Since 1765, The Manx Heritage Foundation, p. 73
^Broderick, George (2005).Placenames of the Isle of Man: Douglas and appendices. Vol. 7. Tübingen: Max Niemeyer Verlag.
^P.J. Davey & others, 1999 Bronze Age Metallurgy in the Isle of Man, p. 48, in P.J. Davey (Ed.) Recent Archaeological Research in the Isle of Man. BAR Brit. Ser. 278, Archaeopress
^David M. Wilson, 2008, The Vikings in the Isle of Man, Aarhus U.P., p. 113
^Broderick, G., 2006; A Dictionary of Manx PLace-names. English Place-name Soc.ISBN0-904889-71-8, p. 103
^Broderick, G. & Stowell, B., (Eds.), 1973;Chronicle of the Kings of Mann & The Isles. Published privately, Edinburgh. pp. 26 & 46
^Theophilus Talbot, 1925, The Manorial Roll of the Isle of Man, p. 32
^Crowe, N.G. (2001).Survey of Douglas. Vol. 1. p. xvi.
^Gardiner, Mark & others;Continental trade and non-urban ports in mid-Anglo-Saxon England : excavations at Sandtun, West Hythe, Kent. Archaeological Journal, 158 (2001), 161-290.ISSN0066-5983.
^Moore, A.W. (1900).History of the Isle of Man. London: T. Fisher Unwin. p. 436.Archived from the original on 13 September 2013. Retrieved7 September 2013.
^abcdefGordon N. Kniveton; Robert E. Forster; Robert Kelly; Stuart Slack; Frank Cowin (1996).Douglas Centenary 1896–1996. Manx Experience.ISBN978-1873120217.
^Belchem, J., 2000, 'The Onset of Modernity' in A New History of the Isle of Man, Vol V, Liverpool U.P.;ISBN0-85323-726-3.
^Clive Behagg (3 October 1991). "5: The Development of the Labour Party 1885–1902".Labour and Reform: Working Class Movements, 1815-1914 (Access to History).Hodder & Stoughton. pp. 99–103.ISBN0-340-52930-X.
^Neesam, Malcolm G. (2022).Wells & Swells, the golden age of Harrogate Spa, 1842–1923 (1 ed.). Lancaster, England: Carnegie Publishing.ISBN9781859362389.
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