Åland is situated in a Finnisharchipelago, called theÅland Islands, at the entrance to theGulf of Bothnia in theBaltic Sea. It comprisesFasta Åland, on which 90% of the population resides,[10] and about 6,500skerries and islands to its east,[11] of which about 60–80 are inhabited. Fasta Åland is separated from the coast ofRoslagen in Sweden by 38 km (20+1⁄2 nautical miles) of open water to the west. In the east, the Åland archipelago iscontiguous with theFinnish archipelago. Åland's only land border is located on the uninhabited skerry ofMärket, which it shares with Sweden.[12] From Mariehamn, there is a ferry distance of about 160 km (86 nautical miles) toTurku, a coastal city ofmainland Finland, and also toStockholm, the capital of Sweden.
TheParliament of Finland initially granted Åland extensive autonomy through the Act on the Autonomy of Åland in 1920. This act was subsequently updated with new versions in 1951 and 1991. Theconstitution of Finland refers to this act, establishing it as the basis for Åland's specific constitutional framework. The Act also mandates that Åland remains exclusivelySwedish-speaking.[14]
Åland helda separate referendum on joining theEuropean Union on 20 November 1994 (after themainland Finland referendum on 16 October), as it constituted a distinct customs jurisdiction. Membership was approved by 73.64% of voters.[15] Finland's accession treaty includes a specific protocol for Åland. This protocol ensures thatEU law does not override existing restrictions on non-residents (individuals without Ålandic home region rights,hembygdsrätt) acquiring or holding real property, or providing certain services within Åland.[16]
Åland's hypothetical name in theProto-Norse language was*Ahvaland. TheProto-Germanic rootahwō is related to the Latin word for water,aqua. In Swedish, the name evolved fromÁland toÅland, meaning "river land"—despite rivers not being a notable feature of the archipelago.[citation needed]
TheFinnish andEstonian names for the region,Ahvenanmaa andAhvenamaa (meaning "perch land," from Finnishahven, a type of fish), are believed to preserve an alternative version of the old name.[17]
Several theories exist regarding the origin of the Finnish nameAhvenanmaa. Some suggest it is a Finnish adaptation of the Swedish name Åland, others that it is the original form from which Åland developed, and some that it emerged independently.[18]
The official name,Landskapet Åland, means "the Region of Åland." The wordlandskap is acognate of the English "landscape."[citation needed]
Swedish map of Åland from before 1667, showing shipping lanes, harbours, churches, and boundaries
People from theComb Ceramic culture began settling the Åland Islands around 7000 years ago, after the land started rising from the sea following thelast Ice Age. Åland became a meeting point for two Neolithic cultures: the Comb Ceramic culture and the laterPit–Comb Ware culture, which spread from the west.[19]
During theStone Age andBronze Age, people lived by hunting seals and birds, fishing, and gathering plants. Farming also began early. From theIron Age, six hillforts remain on Åland. More than 380 burial sites from theViking Age have been documented.[19]
Thecoat of arms of Åland was originally meant for the Swedish island ofÖland in 1560 but was assigned to Åland by mistake. It shows a goldenred deer (not native to Åland) on a bluefield.[20] Traditionally, it is topped with acomital coronet from the older Swedish heraldic style.[21]
In 1809, Sweden ceded Åland and Finland to theRussian Empire under theTreaty of Fredrikshamn. The islands became part of theGrand Duchy of Finland, which existed until 1917. Sweden had hoped Åland would remain unfortified, but no such clause was included.
In 1832, Russia began building the fortress ofBomarsund on Åland. During theCrimean War in 1854, British and French forces captured and destroyed it. TheTreaty of Paris (1856) then demilitarised the archipelago.[13] Russia later remilitarised Åland duringWorld War I to guard against a German invasion.[22]
Swedish artillerymen in Haraldsby during theInvasion of Åland in 1918
Åland (blue) with Finland’s historical provinces (gray) and current borders (yellow)
After 1917, Ålanders campaigned to join Sweden. In 1919,a petition signed by 96.4% of voters supported leaving Finland and uniting with Sweden.[24] This was partly due to anti-Swedish policies in Finland and growingFinnish nationalism, driven by the country’s struggle againstRussification.[25] The long-standingconflict between Finland’s Swedish- and Finnish-speaking communities added to Ålanders’ concerns.
TheÅland convention of 20 October 1921, signed by Sweden, Finland, and several European countries, was the League’s first major international agreement.[28] It guaranteed Ålanders’ rights to their language, culture, and traditions, and declared Åland a neutral and demilitarised zone.[29]
Thanks to its neutral status, Åland’s merchant fleet could sail for both theAllies andNazi Germany duringWorld War II. Ships were generally not attacked, as their destinations and cargoes were often unknown.[citation needed]
In 2006, Finland marked 150 years of Åland’s demilitarisation by issuing a €5commemorative coin. The obverse shows a pine tree, common in Åland, while the reverse depicts a boat’s stern and rudder with a dove on the tiller—symbolising 150 years of peace.[30]
Åland's political system is based on the Act on the Autonomy of Åland and related international agreements. These guarantee Åland wide-ranging self-rule, while Finland retains ultimate sovereignty.[14] TheGovernment of Åland (Landskapsregering) is responsible to theParliament of Åland (Lagting) under aparliamentary system. As Åland's autonomy predates Finland's currentregional system, it also performs many functions handled by regional councils in mainland Finland.
Åland holds one seat in theParliament of Finland. Its political system operates separately from mainland Finland's and includes distinct parties such as theFuture of Åland (Ålands Framtid), which advocates full independence.[31][32]
The region also has its own police force and is an associate member of theNordic Council.[34] Åland also uses distinctcall sign prefixes for amateur radio (e.g.,OH0).[35]
Homeschooling is permitted in Åland, attracting families from Sweden, where stricter regulations apply.[36]
Authorities planned to introduce internet voting for overseas voters in the 2019 parliamentary election, with broader use considered for 2023.[37] The project was later abandoned due to security concerns.[38]
Åland held a separatereferendum onEuropean Union membership on 20 November 1994. With majority support, it joined the EU alongside Finland in 1995. The Åland Protocol defines a special relationship, granting exceptions for land ownership, local business laws, and tax regulations. Åland is treated as a third-country territory for taxation, allowingduty-free sales on ferries between Åland, Finland, and Sweden.[citation needed]
TheState Department of Åland represents Finland's national government in the region and manages tasks that in mainland Finland are handled by regional agencies. Before 2010, these duties belonged to theÅland State Provincial Office.
The Governor is appointed by the President of Finland after consulting theLagting Speaker. If no agreement is reached, the Lagting proposes five candidates for the President to choose from.[39]
The Åland archipelago consists of nearly 300 habitable islands, of which about 60 to 80 are inhabited. The rest—more than 6,000—are smallskerries and bare rocks.[11] The archipelago continues eastward into theÅboland region, part of theArchipelago Sea off Finland’s southwest coast. West of Åland lies theSea of Åland; to the north is theBothnian Sea.
The terrain is mostly rocky, with thin soil shaped by glacial activity at the end of the last ice age.[11] Meadows and pastures host many insects, including theGlanville fritillary butterfly.
The total land area of Åland is 1,527 km2 (590 sq mi).[43] About 90% of the population lives onFasta Åland, the largest island and location of the capitalMariehamn. Its area is estimated at between 740 km2 (290 sq mi)[11] and 879 km2 (339 sq mi),[44] depending on definition. Some sources list over 1,010 km2 (390 sq mi). The island contains several harbours.
Sheep grazing on a small island
During theÅland Islands dispute, Swedish and Finnish maps portrayed the region differently. The Swedish maps focused on the main island and downplayed surrounding skerries, making Åland appear closer to Sweden. Finnish maps emphasized continuity with the Finnish archipelago by showing more small islands and inflating their size. This influenced the popular figure of “over 6,000” skerries, widely repeated since the arbitration.[citation needed]
Some wildlife, such aselk and other deer species, were introduced in the 20th century and are not native to the islands.
Åland’s economy relies heavily on shipping, trade, andtourism. Shipping makes up about 40% of the economy, with several international shipping companies based in Åland. Outside of shipping, most businesses are small, often with fewer than ten employees. Farming and fishing are also important and support a local food industry. A few technology firms contribute to economic growth.
Wind power is a growing sector, with plans to reverse the direction of energy transmission to the mainland in the future. In December 2011, wind energy supplied 31.5% of Åland’s electricity needs.[citation needed]
The sailing shipLinden (center) in Östra Hamnen, Mariehamn's eastern port
Mariehamn was once a hub for the last large commercial sailing ships. These ships, owned by Åland shipownerGustaf Erikson, carried wheat from Australia to Britain until 1947. After each trip, they returned to Mariehamn to rest and prepare for the next voyage. ThePommern, now a museum ship in Mariehamn, was one of these vessels.
When the EU bannedduty-free sales on ferries within the union, Finland secured a special exception for Åland. Åland is outside theEU VAT area, which allows tax-free sales on ferries that stop at Mariehamn or Långnäs and at the airport. As a result, Åland is treated as a separate tax zone, and customs duties apply to goods entering the islands. Åland receives about two million visitors each year, although most stay only a few hours during ferry stopovers or transfers.[48]
Taxes, fees, and duties are collected in Åland by the Finnish government. In return, the national government allocates funds to the Åland Parliament. This amount is set at 0.5% of total state revenue (excluding loans). If Åland contributes more than 0.5%, the surplus is returned to Åland as "diligence money".[49] In 2010, Åland residents paid 0.7% of all taxes in Finland.[50]
Theeuro is the official currency, but many businesses also accept theSwedish krona.[53] In 2006,Eurostat ranked Åland the 20th wealthiest of the EU's 268 regions and the wealthiest in Finland, with GDP per person 47% above the EU average.[54][55]
Bank of Åland is headquartered in Mariehamn. The government also ownsPaf, a gambling operator based in the capital.
TheCOVID-19 pandemic caused a sharper economic decline in Åland than in mainland Finland or Sweden. Since then, Åland’s economy has gradually recovered.[56]
Swedish is the soleofficial language of Åland and was spoken as afirst language by 86% of the population in 2021. Fewer than 5% spokeFinnish. In publicly funded schools, the language of instruction is Swedish. In the rest of Finland, bilingual municipalities provide instruction in both Finnish and Swedish. For details on the local dialect, seeÅland Swedish.
The ethnic classification of Ålanders remains a subject of debate. They are sometimes described as ethnicSwedes or as part of theSwedish-speaking population of Finland. Linguistically, the Åland dialect is closer to theUppland dialects of eastern Sweden than to mainlandFinland Swedish, though this distinction is not universally agreed upon.[citation needed]
In 2021, 17.3% of residents had a foreign background—the highest proportion of any region in Finland. Most came from Sweden (7% of Åland's total population), followed by Romania and Latvia.[58]
In 2010, Åland had 22primary schools. Twelve were lower-level schools (grades 1–6), eight included both lower and uppersecondary education, and two were upper secondary schools only.[60]
Post-primary education is provided by two main institutions:Ålands lyceum, a traditional academic upper secondary school (gymnasium), and the Åland Vocational School, which offers a dual program combining general and vocational studies. According to 2018 statistics from the Finnish education authority, Ålands lyceum had 432 students enrolled.[61]
Other institutions includeÅlands folkhögskola [sv] and several additional primary and secondary schools across the islands.[62]
Higher education is offered by theÅland University of Applied Sciences, which enrolls around 600 students.[63] Fields of study include maritime studies, mechanical and electrical engineering, information technology, business, hospitality, and health care.[64] All maritime education is coordinated through theAlandica Shipping Academy.[65]
The education system in Åland follows the Finnish and broaderNordic model. The official language of instruction is Swedish.Finnish has traditionally been compulsory in upper secondary schools but optional at the primary level. As of 2006, about 80% of primary students still chose to study Finnish. That year, a proposal was made to remove Finnish as a compulsory subject in upper secondary schools.[66]
Åland has some of the oldest churches in Finland.St. Olaf's Church, Jomala, built in the late 13th century, is generally considered the oldest surviving church building in the country.[68]
The largest medieval church in Åland is theChurch of St. John the Baptist, Sund, located inSund. Built shortly after St. Olaf’s, it remains one of the most significant historical churches in the region.[69]
The 2016 historical drama filmDevil's Bride, directed by Saara Cantell, is set in 17th-century Åland during thewitch trials.[72] The film received the Best Foreign Language Film Award at the 2017Female Eye Film Festival in Toronto.[73]
Another film set in Åland is the 2013 dramaDisciple, directed byUlrika Bengts [sv]. The film has been covered in Finnish-language media, including an archived feature fromUusi Suomi about Bengts's career path,[74] and a DVD review inElokuvauutiset.[75]
The main football clubs areÅland United (women's) andIFK Mariehamn (men's), the latter of which plays in theVeikkausliiga, Finland's top league. Both teams play at the Wiklöf Holding Arena inMariehamn.
^abHannum, Hurst (1993). "Agreement between Sweden and Finland Relating to Guarantees in the Law of 7 May 1920 on the Autonomy of the Aaland Islands".Basic Documents on Autonomy and Minority Rights. Martinus Nijhoff Publishers. p. 141.ISBN0-7923-1977-X.Archived from the original on 7 July 2023. Retrieved11 October 2015.
^ab"Ahvenanmaa pähkinänkuoressa".Ahvenanmaa – ahaa! (in Finnish). 2007. p. 3.
^abcdScheffel, Richard L.; Wernet, Susan J., eds. (1980).Natural Wonders of the World. United States of America: Reader's Digest Association, Inc. p. 3.ISBN0-89577-087-3.
^An account of the border on Märket and how it was redrawn in 1985 appears inHidden Europe Magazine, 11 (November 2006) pp. 26–29,ISSN1860-6318
^"Åland in the European Union".Europe Information. Ministry for Foreign Affairs of Finland. 2013. p. 7. Archived fromthe original on 21 August 2016. Retrieved25 January 2017.
^Virrankoski, Pentti (2001).Suomen historia. Ensimmäinen osa. SKS.ISBN951-746-321-9. p. 59.
^Huldén, Lars (2001).Finlandssvenska bebyggelsenamn. Svenska litteratursällskapet i Finland.ISBN951-583-071-0.
^Eriksson, Sussanne (1993).Åland Kort och gott [Åland in short] (in Swedish). Ålands landskapsstyrelse och Ålands lagting.ISBN951-8946-00-0.
^Harjula, Mirko (2010).Itämeri 1914–1921: Itämeren laivastot maailmansodassa sekä Venäjän vallankumouksissa ja sisällissodassa (in Finnish). Helsinki: Books on Demand.ISBN978-952-49838-3-9.
^Abbott, Margery Post; Chijioke, Mary Ellen; Dandelion, Pink & Oliver, John William:Historical Dictionary of the Friends (Quakers), p. 246. Scarecrow Press, 2011.ISBN978-0-8108-6857-1.
^Northedge, F. S.The League of Nations: Its Life and Times, 1920–1946 (Holmes & Meier, 1986,ISBN0-7185-1316-9), pp. 77–78
^Elgán, Elisabeth (2015).Historical Dictionary of Sweden. Rowman & Littlefield. p. 26.ISBN978-1-4422-5071-0.
^Hänninen, Harto (25 September 2014)."Oppipoika (2013)".Elokuvauutiset (in Finnish).Archived from the original on 5 November 2020. Retrieved31 July 2020.
Mead, W. R.; Members of the Geographical Field Group (1964).Saltvik: Studies from an Åland Parish. Geographical Field Group Regional Studies. Vol. 10. Nottingham, England: Geographical Field Group, The University.OCLC38532.
Sederholm, J. J. (1934).On Migmatites and Associated Pre-Cambrian Rocks of Southwestern Finland, Part III: The Åland Islands. Suomen Geologinen Toimikunta. Vol. 107. Helsinki: Government Press.OCLC312139073.
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