| Cohutta Wilderness | |
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| Location | Fannin /Murray /Gilmer counties,Georgia /Polk County,Tennessee,USA |
| Nearest city | Crandall, Georgia |
| Coordinates | 34°52′32″N84°37′32″W / 34.87556°N 84.62556°W /34.87556; -84.62556 |
| Area | 36,977 acres (150 km2) |
| Established | 1975 |
| Visitors | 60,000 |
| Governing body | U.S. Forest Service |
TheCohutta Wilderness was designated in 1975, expanded in 1986, and currently consists of 36,977 acres (149.64 km2). Approximately 35,268 acres (142.72 km2) are located inGeorgia in theChattahoochee National Forest and approximately 1,709 acres (6.92 km2) are located inTennessee in theCherokee National Forest. Combined with the surrounding 96,583-acreCohutta Wildlife Management Area and the bordering 8,082 acreBig Frog Wilderness, the region spans over 100,000 acres, making it one of the largest contiguous protected areas in the Eastern United States and the largest federally designated wilderness on the East Coast. The Wilderness is managed by the Conasauga Ranger District of theUnited States Forest Service and is part of theNational Wilderness Preservation System.
The Cohutta Wilderness is entirely within the broadermetasedimentaryCohutta Mountains which are part of the broaderBlue Ridge Mountains ecoregion. The Cohutta Mountains are part of theUnaka Range which includes the Ocoee,Unicoi Mountains, andGreat Smoky Mountains. They are the southern terminus of this mountain chain. This range is geologically distinct from theNortheast Georgia mountains east of the geological Murphy Syncline split. The Cohuttas ofFannin,Murray andGilmer counties are not part of the Blue Ridge, either physiographically or geologically. They are composed of earlycambrian rocks: slates, quartzites and conglomerates of the Ocoee series and quite different from the biotite schists and gneisses of the more highly metamorphosed sedimentary rocks from which the main core of the Blue Ridge is constructed with.
The highest point in the range within Georgia isCowpen Mountain standing at 4,150 feet (1,265 m). The highest point within the range lies just over the state line in Tennessee onBig Frog Mountain 4,224 feet (1287 m). The Cohuttas are notable for their dramatic elevation gradient, rising sharply from theGreat Valley (Appalachian Valley). The wilderness features the first peaks exceeding 4,000 feet if traveling from the west and the most westerly 4,000 footers on the East coast until you reach theBlack Hills ofSouth Dakota.Grassy Mountain, another prominent peak at 3,690 feet (1,125 m), demonstrates the striking rise of nearly 3,000 feet in just under four miles. Just a few miles later, the elevation gradient of nearbyBald Mountain rises over 3,000 feet from its base at the valley floor to its peak at 4,009 feet (1,222 m). These features contribute to the wilderness's lofty topography. For comparisonBrasstown Bald, the highest mountain in Georgia has a prominence of 2,108 ft (643 m) from its base.
The same ridge hostsLake Conasauga, the highest lake in Georgia at an elevation of 3,150 feet (960 m). This Appalachian alpine lake is surrounded by an old-growth forest ofwhite pine,hemlock,yellow birch,sweet birch,red oak,white oak,yellow poplar, andhickory with an understory andherbaceous layer ofrhododendron,witch-hazel,mountain laurel,galax,mountain holly,partridge berry and several species offerns.
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The Cohutta Wilderness and the range is home to two major rivers, theConasauga River and theJacks River, along with the headwaters of dozens of tributaries that flow through the rugged landscape such as Bear Creek, Mill Creek, Tumbling Creek, Rough Creek, Emery Creek,Holly Creek,Fightingtown Creek, andMountaintown Creek. The Conasauga River, one of the most biodiverse rivers in North America, supports more aquatic species than theColumbia andColorado River watersheds combined, making it an ecological treasure. The river is home to over 90 species of fish such as endangereddarters,shiners, and 25 surviving species offreshwater mussels.[1] The upper portion of the Conasauga River that is located within the Cohutta Mountains is also one of the cleanest and clearest rivers of its size in the Southern Appalachians from asedimentation standpoint. Theheadwaters of the Conasauga River originate within the Cohutta Wilderness at an elevation of approximately 3,600 feet (1,100 m), where the river begins as a cold spring and flows northward into Tennessee. The Jacks River features numerous waterfalls, Class V whitewater, and deep blue swimming holes, including the renowned Jacks River Falls. Both of these rivers compromise two of the state's most prolific wild trout streams, which meander through rocky gorges, cascades, bluffs, and often flash flood the wilderness during periods of heavy rain.[2] Three species of trout were stocked prior to wilderness designation including non-nativerainbow trout,brown trout, and the endemic nativeSouthern Appalachian brook trout andcoosa bass.
The wilderness is also home to many mammal species such aswhite-tailed deer,black bear,bobcat,red fox,coyote,raccoon,opossum,skunk,red squirrel,gray squirrel,chipmunk,beaver,river otter,bats, andwild boar. The uplands and coves provide habitat forturkey,ruffled grouse, andeastern whip-poor-will.
Due to the wilderness's geographical location on theAppalachian flyway, more than 100 bird species have been identified in the area such ashawk,owl,herons,blackbirds,ducks,eagles,sparrows,hummingbirds,juncos,mourning doves,chimney swifts,eastern phoebes,barn swallows,blue jays,indigo buntings,cardinals,towhees,sparrows,chickadees,thrushes,warblers, andgeese.[3]
Reptile species such as theeastern copperhead,timber rattlesnakes,watersnakes,box turtles and Amphibians such asfrogs,toads,newts andsalamanders are also common. Being situated in the Southern Appalachians, a global hotspot for salamander diversity, the wilderness is home to 14 known salamander species.[4] The Tumbling and Fightingtown creek watersheds in the eastern edge of the Cohutta range are also home to the Appalachian endemiceastern hellbender.
However, many large species once lived in the area but wereextirpated byland-use and hunting changes brought about byEuropean colonization. These includebison,elk,mountain lion,gray wolf,red wolf,fisher,peregrine falcon, and several species of fish.
Spring and summer bring a riot of colorful blooms to many shrubs, vines, and herbaceous plants, ranging from the brilliant orange offlame azalea, the pink bloomingmountain azalea andgorge rhododendron, to thepink lady's-slipper,yellow lady's-slipper, theblue cohosh, and the scarletcardinal flower. The hillsides of the cove forests become carpeted withtrillium flowers around early May. Grassy Mountain is also home to nine species of Trillium, the most known from any single mountain on Earth making Grassy Mountain notable as a center of trillium diversity within the United States. The creek valleys bloom withrhododendron maximum from late June to early July. Northern species that reach unusually low elevations in the Cohuttas include yellow birch,rhododendron catawba, andmountain maple, and southern species rarely found in the mountains includeswamp chestnut oak andoakleaf hydrangea.[5][6]
Thedendritic hydrology of the range supports diverse ecosystems ranging from lush river valleys at lower elevations under 1,000 feet (300 m) above sea level towhite pine,sycamore,yellow buckeye,mountain silverbell, yellow birch,sugar maple,beech, stunted white and red oak, and pockets of naturalizedSouthern Appalachian spruce–fir forests at higher altitudes such as onPotato Patch Mountain 3,573 feet (1,089 m), andBald Mountain 4,009 feet (1,222 m). This represents one of the best opportunities in Georgia for species to migrate upslope in response to warming temperatures.High elevation boulder field forests are also present on the northern slopes and coves of the highest peaks within the Cohuttas comprising a variety oflichen coveredbasswood,maple,oak, andyellow birch trees with a rich herbaceous layer andmoss covering the boulders.
The largest known tract of old-growth in north Georgia spreads across Grassy Mountain’s rocky upper slopes. The tract includes not only dry, non-commercial oak forests typical of north Georgia’s remaining old-growth, but also cove forests with towering trees. Bothtuliptree andnorthern red oak reach 4.5 feet in diameter on the slopes of Grassy Mountain. Within the range the second largest living tree in Georgia can be viewed and accessed via Bear Creek trail. Thisold-growth yellow poplar specimen known as the "Gennett Poplar", was named after Andrew Gennett, the founder of the Gennett Lumber Company who famously sold large tracts of land to the United States government, primarily in the North Georgia mountains, which became part of the Chattahoochee National Forest as part of theWeeks Act of 1911.[7]
The Cohutta Mountains, particularly the eastern region and the Potato Patch-Grassy-Bald Escarpment in the southwestern section, comprise one of the rainiest areas in Georgia due to itsorographic lift. The north-facing coves in this region receive over 80 inches of annual rainfall fostering some of the southernmostAppalachian temperate rainforests which are characterized by a thick, dense, and lush herbaceous layer of plants.[8]
Only the highest elevations in the Cohuttas and high elevation valleys such as Boatwright Valley and Jacks River Fields Campground, the latter which lies at 2,700 feet (820 m) fall with the Appalachian influencedsubtropical highland (Köppen climate classification Cfb) climate, a variety grouped within Oceanic climates known for their milder summer climate.[9] These valleys act as cold sinks orfrost hollows due to their unique topography which allows cold air to settle and pool on the valley floor, resulting in significantly colder temperatures compared to surrounding areas, essentially making it a "cold sink" or "frost hollow" where cold air gets trapped.[10] The lower elevations fall within the typicalhumid subtropical climate (Köppen climate classification Cfa).
The Cohutta mountains, particularly the northern facing coves can average between 4 and 18 inches annually due to theupslope flow phenomenon.[11] Surrounding counties typically average 1 to 4 inches of snow annually on average. Elevations over 3,800 feet can have particularly brutal winters with some storms blanketing the mountains with over a foot of snow such as onBig Frog Mountain 4,224 feet (1287 m) which lacks the protection of other mountains, it receives the full impact of cold fronts and other climatic events.[12][13]
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In the early 1900s, much of the Cohutta Wilderness was logged by the Conasauga Lumber Company. Extensiveclearcutting and timber harvesting, particularly of the region's old-growthAmerican chestnut, poplar, hemlock, and pine forests, continued until the 1930s when the Great Depression brought operations to a halt. This period of overexploitation dramatically altered the landscape, but the subsequent designation as a wilderness area allowed the forest to recover, creating the lush and rugged second growth terrain in much of the wilderness seen today. One can still find evidence of logging roads, equipment, and stonework within the interior trails of the wilderness.
Historically, the area's grassy balds, such as those on Grassy Mountain and Bald Mountain, were used as pasture lands by local farmers from local communities likeCisco, Georgia. Livestock grazing maintained these open fields until the land was acquired by the Forest Service in the early 20th century. Although there are no naturally formedAppalachian balds in the Cohuttas, man-made openings remained until as recently as the 1950s. Today, much of the forest has reclaimed these summits, though similar grassy balds in regions like theGreat Smoky Mountains andRoan Highlands are actively maintained by federal agencies.
Due to its popularity, with more than 60,000 visitors annually, the Forest Service has implemented regulations to mitigate overuse, including group size limits and restrictions on campfires. These measures aim to preserve the wilderness character and protect the area for future generations.[14]
The name "Cohutta" is derived from the Cherokee wordcohutta, meaning "frog" or possibly "a shed roof supported on poles." The wilderness's rich cultural history, coupled with its ecological significance, makes it a critical area for both preservation and recreation.
One notable historical feature is the Cherokee ballfield on Little Bald Mountain. This flat, grassy area atop the mountain was likely used as a ceremonial and recreational space where the Cherokee playedAnetsa, a traditional stickball game often referred to as "the little brother of war".
TheRough Ridge wildfire began on October 16, 2016, with a lightning strike. Due to drought conditions, the wildfire rapidly expanded to 27,870 acres. Fire management objectives prioritized allowing the fire to burn naturally while ensuring firefighter and public safety.[15]
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The Cohutta Wilderness and surrounding area is a haven for hikers, fishermen, botanists, kayakers, mountain bikers, naturalists, and hunters, offering a variety of ecosystems that traverse remote gorges, ridgelines, river valleys, and hardwood forests. Some trails are open to horses.[16] Originally, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail was planned to run through the wilderness and end onCohutta Mountain in Murray County, Georgia but was moved more south due to the area's remoteness.[17] TheBenton MacKaye Trail cuts through the eastern side of the wilderness, while thePinhoti National Recreation Trail bisects it, with its northern terminus just south of the wilderness where it joins the Benton MacKaye Trail. The highest point on the Pinhoti Trail, Buddy Cove Gap, reaches 3,164 feet (964 m) near the Cohutta Wilderness.
The Cohutta Wilderness offers an extensive network of trails maintained by volunteers catering to hikers and backpackers of varying skill levels. Encompassing approximately 127 hiking miles spanning two states elevations range from a high of 4,224 feet atopBig Frog Mountain (Hemp Top Trail) to an elevation of 978 feet at the Alaculsy Valley Trailhead of the Jacks River Trail.
Trails are open year-round. Some trailhead parking lots are inaccessible from January 1 through early March due to annual winter gate closures but the trails remain open from other trailheads. The trailhead parking lots affected by winter road closures are Tearbritches, Chestnut Lead, Betty Gap and Three Forks. This closure is in effect annually from January through early March. The closest "gateway" towns to the Wilderness area areChatsworth,Ellijay, andBlue Ridge, Georgia.[18]
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