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Cheesemaking

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Craft of making cheese
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During industrial production ofEmmental cheese, the as-yet-undrained curd is broken by rotating mixers.
A cheesemakingworkshop with goats atMaker Faire 2011. The sign declares, "Eat yourZipcode", in reference to thelocavore movement.

Cheesemaking (orcaseiculture) is the craft of makingcheese. The production of cheese, like many otherfood preservation processes, allows thenutritional andeconomic value of a food material, in this case milk, to be preserved in concentrated form. Cheesemaking allows the production of the cheese with diverse flavors and consistencies.[1]

History

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Cheesemaking is documented in Egyptian tomb drawings and in ancient Greek literature.[1]

Cheesemaking may have originated fromnomadic herdsmen who storedmilk in vessels made fromsheep's andgoats' stomachs. Because their stomach linings contain a mix oflactic acid,bacteria as milk contaminants andrennet, the milk wouldferment andcoagulate.[2] A product reminiscent ofyogurt would have been produced, which through gentle agitation and the separation ofcurds fromwhey would have resulted in the production of cheese; the cheese being essentially a concentration of the major milk protein,casein, and milk fat. Thewhey proteins, other major milk proteins, andlactose are all removed in the cheesewhey. Another theory is offered by David Asher, who wrote that the origins actually lie within the "sloppy milk bucket in later European culture, it having gone unwashed and containing all of the necessary bacteria to facilitate the ecology of cheese".[3]

Ancient cheesemaking

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One of the ancient cheesemakers' earliest tools for cheesemaking, cheese molds or strainers, can be found throughoutEurope, dating back to theBronze Age.[4] Baskets were used to separate the cheese curds, but as technology advanced, these cheese molds would be made of wood or pottery. The cheesemakers placed the cheese curds inside of the mold, secured the mold with a lid, then added pressure to separate the whey, which would drain out from the holes in the mold. The more whey that was drained, the less moisture retained in the cheese. Less moisture meant that the cheese would be firmer. InIreland, some cheeses ranged from a dry and hard cheese (mullahawn) to a semi-liquid cheese (millsén).[5]

The designs and patterns were often used to decorate the cheeses and differentiate between them. Since many monastic establishments and abbeys owned their share of milk animals at the time, it was commonplace for the cheeses they produced to bear a cross in the middle.

Although the common perception of cheese today is made from cow's milk, goat's milk was actually the preferred base of ancient cheesemakers, because goats are smaller animals than cows. This meant that goats required less food and were easier to transport and herd. Moreover, goats can breed any time of the year as opposed to sheep, who also produce milk, but mating season only came around during fall and winter.

Before the age of pasteurization, cheesemakers knew that certain cheeses could cause constipation or kidney stones, so they advised their customers to supplement these side effects by eating in moderation along with other foods and consuming walnuts, almonds, or horseradish.[6][7]

Process

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The production ofGruyère cheese at the cheesemaking factory ofGruyères,Canton of Fribourg,Switzerland

The goal of cheese making is to control the spoiling of milk into cheese. The milk is traditionally from acow,goat,sheep, orbuffalo, although, in theory, cheese could be made from the milk of any mammal. Cow's milk is most commonly used worldwide. The cheesemaker's goal is a consistent product with specific characteristics (appearance, aroma, taste, texture). The process used to make aCamembert will be similar to, but not quite the same as, that used to makeCheddar.

Some cheeses may be deliberately left to ferment from naturally airbornespores andbacteria; this approach generally leads to a less consistent product but one that is valuable in a niche market.

Culturing

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Cheese is made by bringing milk (possiblypasteurised) in the cheese vat to a temperature required to promote the growth of the bacteria that feed on lactose and thusferment the lactose into lactic acid. These bacteria in the milk may be wild, as is the case with unpasteurised milk, added from aculture, frozen orfreeze dried concentrate ofstarter bacteria. Bacteria which produce only lactic acid during fermentation arehomofermentative; those that also produce lactic acid and other compounds such ascarbon dioxide,alcohol,aldehydes andketones areheterofermentative. Fermentation using homofermentative bacteria is important in the production of cheeses such as Cheddar, where a clean,acid flavour is required. For cheeses such asEmmental the use of heterofermentative bacteria is necessary to produce the compounds that give characteristic fruity flavours and, importantly, the gas that results in the formation of bubbles in the cheese ('eye holes').

Starter cultures are chosen to give a cheese its specific characteristics. In the case ofmould-ripened cheese such asStilton,Roquefort orCamembert, mouldspores (fungal spores) may be added to the milk in the cheese vat or can be added later to the cheese curd.

Coagulation

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During the fermentation process, once sufficient lactic acid has been developed,rennet is added to cause thecasein toprecipitate. Rennet contains the enzymechymosin which convertsκ-casein to para-κ-caseinate (the main component ofcheese curd, which is asalt of one fragment of the casein) and glycomacropeptide, which is lost in the cheese whey. As the curd is formed, milk fat is trapped in a casein matrix. After adding the rennet, the cheese milk is left to form curds over a period of time.

Freshchevre hanging incheesecloth to drain.

Draining

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Once the cheese curd is judged to be ready, the cheese whey must be released. As with many foods the presence ofwater and the bacteria in it encouragesdecomposition. To prevent such decomposition it is necessary to remove most of the water (whey) from the cheese milk, and hence cheese curd, to make a partialdehydration of the curd. There are several ways to separate the curd from the whey.

Maturing cheese in a cheese cellar

Scalding

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In making Cheddar (or many other hard cheeses) the curd is cut into small cubes and the temperature is raised to approximately 39 °C (102 °F) to 'scald' the curd particles.Syneresis occurs and cheese whey is expressed from the particles. The Cheddar curds and whey are often transferred from the cheese vat to a cooling table which contains screens that allow the whey to drain, but which trap the curd. The curd is cut using long, bluntknives and 'blocked' (stacked, cut and turned) by the cheesemaker to promote the release of cheese whey in a process known as 'cheddaring'. During this process theacidity of the curd increases to a desired level. The curd is then milled into ribbon shaped pieces andsalt is mixed into it to arrest acid development. The saltedgreen cheese curd is put into cheese moulds lined with cheesecloths and pressed overnight to allow the curd particles to bind together. The pressed blocks of cheese are then removed from the cheese moulds and are either bound withmuslin-like cloth, orwaxed orvacuum packed in plastic bags to be stored for maturation. Vacuum packing removes oxygen and prevents mould (fungal) growth during maturation, which depending on the wanted final product may be a desirable characteristic or not.

Mould-ripening

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Main article:Cheese ripening

In contrast to cheddaring, making cheeses likeCamembert requires a gentler treatment of the curd. It is carefully transferred to cheese hoops and the whey is allowed to drain from the curd by gravity, generally overnight. The cheese curds are then removed from the hoops to bebrined by immersion in a saturated saltsolution. The salt absorption stops bacteria growing, as with Cheddar. If whitemouldspores have not been added to the cheese milk it is applied to the cheese either by spraying the cheese with asuspension of mould spores in water or by immersing the cheese in a bath containing spores of, e.g.,Penicillium candida.

By taking the cheese through a series of maturation stages where temperature and relative humidity are carefully controlled, allowing the surface mould to grow and the mould-ripening of the cheese by fungi to occur. Mould-ripened cheeses ripen very quickly compared to hard cheeses (weeks against months or years). This is because thefungi used are biochemically very active when compared with starter bacteria. Some cheeses are surface-ripened by moulds, such as Camembert and Brie, some are ripened internally, such as Stilton, which is pierced with stainless steel wires, to admit air to promote mould spore germination and growth, as withPenicillium roqueforti. Surface ripening of some cheeses, such asSaint-Nectaire, may also be influenced byyeasts which contribute flavour and coat texture. Others are allowed to develop bacterial surface growths which give characteristic colours and appearances, e.g., by the growth ofBrevibacterium linens which gives an orange coat to cheeses.

See also

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References

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  1. ^abElisabeth Eugster, Ernst Jakob, Daniel Wechsler. "Cheese, Processed Cheese, and Whey".Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH.doi:10.1002/14356007.a06_163.pub2.ISBN 978-3-527-30673-2.{{cite encyclopedia}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  2. ^Kats, Sandor Ellix; Pollan, Michael (2015). The Art of Fermentation an In-depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes from around the World. Vermont: Chelsea Green Publishing.
  3. ^Asher, David (2015). The Art of Natural Cheesemaking. Vermont: Chelsea Green Publishing.
  4. ^Papademas, Photis (2018). Papademas, Photis; Bintsis, Thomas (eds.).Global Cheesemaking Technology: Cheese Quality and Characteristics. Hoboken, New Jersey: Wiley.doi:10.1002/9781119046165.ISBN 9781119046158.
  5. ^O'Sullivan, Muiris (Winter 2018)."Cheese-Making".Archaeology Ireland.32.[permanent dead link]
  6. ^Wilson, Avice R. (1995).Forgotten Harvest: The Story of Cheesemaking in Wiltshire. Britain: Cromwell Press. p. 32.ISBN 0952654407.
  7. ^Gobbetti, Marco (2018).The Cheeses of Italy : Science and Technology. Springer, Cham.doi:10.1007/978-3-319-89854-4.ISBN 978-3-319-89853-7.S2CID 44128087.

Bibliography

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  • Winstein, Merryl (2017).Successful Cheesemaking™, Step-by-Step Directions and Photos for Making Nearly Every Type of Cheese, (670pp, 800 photos). St. Louis, Missouri: Smooth Stone Press.ISBN 978-0998595955.
  • Robinson, R.K.; Wilbey, R.A. (1998).Cheesemaking practice (3rd ed.). Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic.
  • Banks, J (1998).Cheese (2nd ed.).
  • Early, R.The technology of dairy products. London: Chapman and Hall.
  • Jenkins, Steven (1996).Cheese Primer. New York: Workman Publishing.
  • Tannahill, Reay (2008).Food in History. New York: Three Rivers Press.

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