| Casu martzu (Sardinian) Casgiu merzu (Corsican) Rotten cheese | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Country of origin | |
| Region | |
| Source of milk | Sheep |
| Pasteurised | No |
| Texture | Soft |
| Aging time | 3 months |
| Certification | None |
 Related media on Commons | |
Casu martzu[1] (Sardinian:[ˈkazuˈmaɾtsu];lit. 'rotten/putrid cheese'), sometimes spelledcasu marzu, and also calledcasu modde,casu cundídu andcasu fràzigu inSardinian, is a traditionalSardiniansheep milk cheese that contains live insectlarvae (maggots).
Derived frompecorino,casu martzu goes beyond typicalfermentation to a stage ofdecomposition, brought about by thedigestive action of thelarvae of thecheese fly of thePiophilidae family. These larvae are deliberately introduced to the cheese, promoting an advanced level of fermentation and breaking down of the cheese'sfats. The texture of the cheese becomes very soft, with some liquid (calledlàgrima, Sardinian for "teardrop") seeping out. The larvae themselves appear as translucent white worms, roughly 8 mm (5⁄16 in) long.[2]
When consumed, the larvae can possibly survive in theintestine, causingentericpseudomyiasis;[3][4] however, no cases have been linked to the cheese.[5] Additionally, these larvae can carry harmful microorganisms that may lead to infections. Due to these risks, Italian authorities have banned the sale of this cheese, deeming it dangerous. Consequently, it is also prohibited across theEuropean Union, asEU food safety regulations mandate that only food safe for consumption can be sold.[4]
Variations of this cheese also exist inCorsica, France, where it is calledcasgiu merzu;[6] it is especially produced in someSouthern Corsican villages likeSartène.[7]
Casu martzu is created by leaving wholepecorino cheeses outside with part of the rind removed to allow the eggs of the cheese flyPiophila casei to be laid in the cheese. A femaleP. casei can lay more than 500 eggs at one time.[2][8] The eggs hatch and the larvae begin to eat through the cheese.[9] The acid from the maggots' digestive system breaks down the cheese'sfats,[9] making the texture of the cheese very soft; by the time it is ready for consumption, a typicalcasu martzu will contain thousands of these maggots.[10] Thepecorino is most desirable if made from milk collected towards the end of June, due to the effects of the reproductive cycle of sheep on their lactation, and local fermentation traditions associate higher qualitycasu martzu with exposure to a warmsirocco wind, which is thought to additionally soften the cheese to encourage further maggot activity.[5] The overall fermentation process takes a total of three months.[5]
Casu martzu is considered by Sardinian aficionados to be unsafe to eat when the maggots in the cheese have died.[11] Because of this, only cheese in which the maggots are still alive is usually eaten, although allowances are made for cheese that has been refrigerated, which also quickly kills the maggots.[11] Some who eat the cheese prefer not to ingest the maggots. Those who do not wish to eat them place the cheese in a sealed paper bag. The maggots, starved for oxygen, writhe and jump in the bag, creating a "pitter-patter" sound. When the sounds subside, the maggots are dead and the cheese can be eaten.[11][12] Modern preservation techniques have expanded the cheese's shelf life to several years, where it would previously be unobtainable outside of late summer and early autumn.[5]
When the cheese has fermented enough, it is often cut into thin strips and spread on moistened Sardinian flatbread (pane carasau), to be served with a strong red wine likecannonau.[9][13] The flavor is described as "intense", with Mediterranean, pastoral, and spicy notes. Theaftertaste is strong enough to remain for hours after a single serving.[5] Because the larvae in the cheese can launch themselves distances up to 15 centimetres (6 in) when disturbed,[2][14] diners hold their hands above the sandwich to prevent the maggots from leaping.[11][12]
It is possible for the larvae to survive the stomach acid and remain in the intestine, leading to a condition calledpseudomyiasis.[4] There have been documented cases of pseudomyiasis withP. casei,[15][16] though a report byCNN claims no such cases have been linked tocasu marzu.[5] The larvae may also carry harmful microorganisms that could cause infections.[4]
A cooperation between sheep farmers and researchers at theUniversity of Sassari developed a hygienic method of production in 2005, aiming to allow the legal selling of the cheese.[17]
Because of its fermentation process, theGuinness World Records listedcasu martzu as the world's most dangerous cheese in 2009.[5]
An Italian journalist forCNN describedcasu martzu's cultural status as "revered", and the unique cheesemaking process combined with the strong, rare taste of the dish are described as icons of the traditional Sardinian pastoral lifestyle. Localgastronome Giovanni Fancello traced the history of Sardinian cuisine to the island's time as a province of theRoman Empire, arguing that "we have always eaten worms,Pliny the Elder andAristotle talked about it... It’s part of our history. We are the sons of this food."[5]Casu martzu is traditionally believed to be anaphrodisiac by Sardinians[18][5] and the shepherding, milking, and fermentation necessary for the dish feature heavily in the island'ssuperstition andmysticism.[5]
The cheese was featured on a cooking show byGordon Ramsay in 2011, increasing its notoriety to an extent amongtourists.[5]
The cheese faced legal challenges from the government of Italy as early as 1962, when it was prohibited under laws against the sale of infested food.[5] Because ofEuropean Union food hygiene-health regulations, the cheese has been outlawed, and offenders face heavy fines.[12] Despite this the laws are sometimes not enforced,[5] and some Sardinians organized themselves in order to makecasu martzu available on theblack market, where it may be sold for double the price of an ordinary block of pecorino cheese.[11][18] As of 2019, the illegal production of this cheese was estimated at 100 tonnes (98long tons; 110short tons) per year, worth between €2–3 million.[19]
Attempts have been made to circumvent the Italian and EU ban by havingcasu martzu declared a traditional food.[11] The traditional way of making the cheese is explained by an official paper of the Sardinian government. Sardinia is considered anautonomous region of Italy.[20]
Casu martzu is among several cheeses that are not legal in theUnited States.[21]
Outside of Sardinia, similar milk cheeses are also produced in the French island of Corsica, as a local variation of the Sardinian cheese produced in some Southern villages and known ascasgiu merzu[6] orcasgiu sartinesu, as well as in a number of Italian regions.[22][23][24]
Several other regional varieties of cheese with fly larvae are produced in the rest of Europe. For example, goat-milk cheese is left to the open air untilP. casei eggs are naturally laid in the cheese.[9] Then it is aged in white wine, with grapes and honey, preventing the larvae from emerging, giving the cheese a strong flavour. In addition, other regions in Europe have traditional cheeses that rely on livearthropods for ageing and flavouring, such as the GermanMilbenkäse and FrenchMimolette, both of which rely oncheese mites.
A similar kind of cheese, called "mish", is also produced inEgypt.
An early printed reference toStilton cheese points to a similar production technique.Daniel Defoe in his 1724 workA Tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain notes: "We pass'dStilton, a town famous for cheese, which is call'd our EnglishParmesan, and is brought to table with themites ormaggots round it, so thick, that they bring a spoon with them for you to eat the mites with, as you do the cheese."[25]
According to Rabbi Chaim Simons of theOrthodox Union, koshercasu martzu can be produced provided that all ingredients are kosher, therennet comes from a kosher animal slaughtered in accordance with the laws ofshechita, and that the cheese is "gevinat Yisrael" (made underJewish supervision).[26]
c. martzu = casu fatu, fatitadu, fatitu, giampagadu, cunnitu.
le casu marzu qui signifie littéralement « fromage pourri » est originaire de Sardaigne, île méditerranéenne située au sud de la Corse. On l'y retrouve sous plusieurs appellations,casu modde,casu cundhidu, mais aussi en Italie,formaggio marcio, ou encore en Corse, sous le nom decasgiu merzu.
The agile maggots offer an additional frisson: they can bend themselves so tightly that, when they let go, the force unleashed propels them six inches or more.
