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Adana[a] is a large city in southernTurkey. The city is situated on theSeyhan River, 35 km (22 mi) inland from the northeastern shores of theMediterranean Sea. It is the administrative seat of theAdana province, and has a population of 1 816 750 (Seyhan, Yuregir, Cukurova, Saricam),[1] making it the largest city in theMediterranean Region of Turkey.
Adana lies in the heart ofCilicia, which some say, was once one of the most important regions of theclassical world.[2][3] Home to six million people, Cilicia is an important agricultural area, owing to the large fertile plain ofÇukurova.
Adana is a centre for regional trade, healthcare, and public and private services. Agriculture and logistics are important parts of the economy. The city is connected toTarsus andMersin byTCDD train. The closest public airport isÇukurova International Airport.
Greco-Roman legend suggests that the name of Adana originates fromAdanus, the son of the Greek godUranus, who founded the city next to the river with his brotherSarus, whose name was given to the river.[5]
According to Ali Cevad'sMemalik-i Osmaniye Coğrafya Lügat (Ottoman Geographical Dictionary), the Muslims of Adana attributed the city's name to Ebu Süleym Ezene, who was appointed asWāli byAbbasidCaliphHarun al-Rashid.[7]
Inhabited by Luwians andHurrians, Kizzuwatna had an autonomous governance underHittite protection, but they had a brief period of independence from the 1500s to 1420s BC. According to theHittite inscription ofKava, found inHattusa (Boğazkale),Kizzuwatna was ruling Adana, under the protection of the Hittites, by 1335 BC. With the collapse of theHittite Empire around 1191–1189 BC, nativeDenyensea peoples took control of Adana and the plain until around 900 BC.[8]
ThenNeo-Hittite states were founded in the region with theQuwê state centred on Adana. Quwê and other states were protected by theNeo-Assyrian Empire, though they had periods of independence too. After the Greek migration into Cilicia in the 8th century BC, the region was unified under the rule of theMopsos dynasty[9] and Adana was established as the capital. Bilingual inscriptions of the ninth and eighth centuries found inMopsuestia (modern Yakapınar) were written inhieroglyphic Luwian andPhoenician. The Assyrians took control of the regions several times before their collapse in 612 BC.
Cilicians founded theKingdom of Cilicia in 612 BC with the help ofSyennesis I. The kingdom was independent until the invasion of theAchaemenid Empire in 549 BC, then became an autonomoussatrapy of the Achaemenids until 401 BC. The uncertain loyalty of Syennessis during the rebellion ofCyrus the Younger ledArtaxerxes II to abolish the Syennesis administration and replace it with a centrally appointed satrap. Archaeological remains of a procession reveal the existence ofPersian nobility in Adana.[10]
Minted coin of Adana, c. 250 BC
Alexander the Great entered Cilicia through theCilician Gates in 333 BC. After defeating the Persians at theBattle of Issus, he installed his own satrap,Balacrus, to oversee the region's administration.[3] His death in 323 BC marked the beginning of theHellenistic era, as Greek replaced Luwian as the language of the region. After a short time underPtolemaic dominion, theSeleucid Empire took control of the region in 312 BC. Adanan locals adopted a Greek name -Antioch on Sarus - for the city to demonstrate their loyalty to the Seleucid dynasty. The adopted name and the motifs illustrating the personification of the city seated above theriver-godSarus on the city's coins, suggest a special appreciation of the rivers which were a strong part of the Cilician identity.[11] The Seleucids ruled Adana for more than two centuries until they were weakened by a civil war which led them to offer allegiance toTigranes II, the King of Armenia who conquered a vast part of theLevant. Cilicia became a vassal state of theKingdom of Armenia in 83 BC and new settlements were founded by Armenians in the region.[12]
In the early period of Roman rule,Zoroastrianism, that had been introduced to the region by the Persians, was still observed in Cilicia as was Judaism which attracted many sympathisers. As home to some of the earliest Christian missionary efforts, Cilicia welcomed Christianity more easily than some other provinces.[3]
At theBattle of Sarus in April 625,Heraclius defeated the forces ofShahrbaraz of theSasanian Empire that were stationed on the east bank of the river, after a fearless charge across the bridge built by the EmperorJustinian (now Taşköprü).[17] During the reign ofCaliphOmar, Muslims who are commanded byKhalid ibn Walid, launched columns to raid Cilicia, going as far as Tarsus, in the autumn of 638.[18] The Byzantines defended the region from the encroachingIslamic Caliphates throughout the 7th century, but it was finally conquered in 704 by theUmayyad CaliphAbd al-Malik. Under Umayyad rule, Cilicia became ano man's land frontier between Byzantine Christian and Arab Muslim forces.[2]
Abandoned for more than fifty years, Adana was garrisoned and re-settled from 758 to 760. So that it could form athughūr on the Byzantine frontier, Cilicia was colonised by the Turkic Sayābija tribe fromKhorasan. The city saw rapid economic and cultural growth during the reigns ofHarun al-Rashid andAl-Amin. Abbasid rule continued for more than two centuries.[19]
Suleiman ibn Qutulmish, the founder of theAnatolian Seljuk Sultanate, annexed Adana in his campaign in 1084. During theCrusades, Cilicia had been criss-crossed by invading armies until it was eventually captured by the forces of theArmenian Principality of Cilicia in 1132, under its king,Leo I.[20] It was retaken byByzantine forces in 1137, but the Armenians regained it again in around 1170. During the Armenian era, Adana continued as a centre for handicrafts and international trade as part of an ancient network fromAsia Minor toNorth Africa, the Near East andIndia.Venetian andGenoese merchants frequented the city to sell goods imported through the port atAyas.[21]
Forces ofMuhammad Ali of Egypt entering the city. Adana Castle and the city walls seen at back were demolished by them in 1836.
The Mamluks built garrisons in Tarsus,Ayas andSarvandikar (Savranda), and left the administration of the plain of Adana toYüreğir Turks who had already formed a Mamluk authorisedTürkmen Emirate in theCamili area, just southeast of Adana, in 1352. TheEmir, Ramazan Bey, designated Adana his capital, and led the Yüreğir Turks as they settled the city. TheRamadanid Emirate, wasde facto independent throughout the 15th century as a result of being athughūr in Ottoman-Mamluk relations. In 1517,Selim I incorporated the emirate into the Ottoman Empire after his conquest of the Mamluk state. The Ramadanid Beys held onto the administration of the new OttomanSanjak of Adana by a hereditary title until 1608.
TheOttomans terminated the Ramadanid administration in 1608 after theCelali rebellions and began direct rule from Constantinople through an appointedVali.[22] In late 1832, the Vali ofEgypt,Muhammad Ali Pasha, invadedSyria, and reached Cilicia. TheConvention of Kütahya signed on 14 May 1833 ceded Cilicia to thede facto independentEgypt. At that time, the Sanjak of Adana's population of 68,934 had hardly any urban services.[23] The first neighbourhood (Verâ-yı Cisr) east of the river was founded andAlawites were brought from Syria to work in the flourishing agricultural lands. İbrahim Paşa, the son of Muhammad Ali Paşa, demolished Adana Castle and the city walls in 1836. He built the first canals for irrigation and transportation and also built a water system for the residential areas of the town, including wheels that raised the water of the river for public fountains.[24] After theOriental crisis, the Convention of Alexandria signed on 27 November 1840 required the return of Cilicia to Ottoman sovereignty.[citation needed]
By the turn of the 20th century, further migration attracted by large-scale industrialisation grew Adana's population to over 107,000: That population was made up of 62,250 Muslims (Turks, Alawites,Circassians, Kurds), 30,000 Armenians, 9,250Assyrians (many of whom were Chaldean Catholics), 5,000 Greeks, 500Arab Christians and 200 internationals.[25]
Quarters that were burnt during the massacre of 1909
In the early 20th century the local economy thrived and the Armenian population doubled as people fled theHamidian massacres. When therevolution of July 1908 brought about the end ofAbdul Hamid II's autocratic rule, the Armenian community felt empowered to imagine an autonomous Cilicia. TheCUP's post-revolution mismanagement of thevilayets caused the pro-diversity Vali Bahri Pasha to be removed from office in late 1908. He was replaced by the weak Cevad Bey. Taking advantage of this, Bağdadizade Abdülkadir (later Paksoy), the local leader of the Cemiyet-i Muhammediye, took almost complete control of the local government and led an action plan to "punish" Armenians throughout Cilicia. Rumours of an upcoming Armenian attack, raised tension in the Turkish neighbourhoods. As soon as news of thecountercoup reached Cilicia, enraged members of the Cemiyet-i Muhammediye.[26]
Survivors of the massacre amid ruins of their houses
After a week of silence, 850 soldiers from regiments of the Ottoman Army arrived in the city on April 25. Shots were fired at the campground and a rumour immediately spread that the Armenians had opened fire from a church tower. Without even investigating the rumour, the military commander Mustafa Remzi Pasha directed soldiers andbashi-bazouks towards the Armenian quarters and for three days they shot people, destroyed buildings and burned down Christian neighbourhoods. The pogroms of 25–27 April were on a much greater scale than the clashes of 14–17 April, and almost all the casualties were Christian.[27]
TheAdana massacre of April 1909 resulted in the deaths of 18,839 Armenians, 1,250 Greeks, 1,272 Assyrians and 620 Muslims. Adding in the roughly 2,500Hadjinian and other seasonal workers who disappeared, the death toll in the entireVilayet is estimated to have been around 25,500. Over the summer 2,000 children died ofdysentery and a few thousand adults died of injuries or from epidemics. The massacre orphaned 3,500 children and caused heavy destruction of Christian properties.[28][29] Cevad Bey and Mustafa Remzi Pasha were sacked and given light sentences for abuse of power, and on 8 August 1909,Djemal Pasha was appointed the new Vali. He quickly rebuilt relations with the surviving Armenian community and gathered financial support to found a new neighbourhood for Armenians calledÇarçabuk (now Döşeme). He also ordered the construction oftwo orphanages and the restoration of destroyed buildings.[26]
Early in May 1915, Vali Ismail Hakkı Bey received an order fromConstantinople (nowİstanbul) to deport the Armenians of Adana. The Vali was able to delay the deportations and let the Armenians sell their movable assets to acquire money for the journey. The first convoy of deportees consisting of more than 4,000 Armenians left the city on May 20. TheCatholicos of Cilicia,Sahak II, wrote a letter to Djemal Pasha, the then Syria-Cilicia General Vali to prevent further deportations and the chief secretary Kerovpe Papazian met the pasha inAley in Lebanon in early June and delivered the message of the Catholicos. Djemal Pasha immediately wired the Vali ordering him not to deport more Armenians. As a result of his efforts, the Adana Armenians earned a stay of execution for the summer, while the rest of the Cilician Armenians were being deported and hundreds of thousands of exhausted Armenian deportees from Western Anatolia were passing through the city. Armenian intellectualsRupen Zartarian,Sarkis Minassian,Nazaret Daghavarian,Harutiun Jangülian, andKarekin Khajag, who weredeported from Constantinople on April 24th, were kept in custody in the Vilayet offices for a few days. They failed to be able to arrange a meeting with the Catholicos at theCathedral, their last attempt at survival. Later in June, two prominent leaders,Krikor Zohrab andVartkes Serengülian, were also kept in the city during their final journey towardsDiyarbakır.[30]
Armenians being loaded onto the trains for deportation to Syria
The Minister of the Interior,Talaat Pasha, wanted to end the exemption of Adana Armenians and sent his second in command, Ali Munif, to the city in mid-August to order the resumption of the deportations. Ali Munif immediately deported 250 families who were accused of insurrection. Before the remaining Armenians were deported, the Vali again arranged for them to sell their assets. As almost a third of the city's residents were selling their belongings, the city must have seemed like the site of a massive clearance sale. The deportation of 5,000 Armenian families in eight convoys started on 2 September 1915 and continued until the end of October. One thousand craftsmen, state officers and army personnel and their families were exempted from deportation. Unlike the deportees of other Vilayets, many of Adana's Armenians were sent toDamascus and further south, thereby avoiding thedeath camps of Deir ez-Zor, at the request of Djemal Pasha.[30]
Rue Principale (now Alimünif St) in Adana's old town centreCilicie Palais de Gouvernement (now Seyhan District Hall) in the town centre
TheArmistice of Mudros, signed on 30 October 1918, ended Ottoman participation inWorld War I. The terms of the armistice ceded control of Cilicia toFrance. In December the French government sent four battalions of theArmenian Legion to take over Adana and oversee the repatriation of more than 170,000 Armenians to Cilicia. Returning Armenians negotiated with France to establish an autonomousState of Cilicia andMihran Damadian, the chief negotiator for the Armenians, signed a provisionalConstitution of Cilicia in 1919.[31] Pre-war life resumed with the re-opening of churches, schools, cultural centres and businesses.
However, the French forces were spread thinly across Cilicia and the villages to which people returned came under attack from the TurkishKuva-yi Milliye. The costs and difficulties associated with the repatriation process, and growing Arab nationalism within the Syria mandate forced the French High Commissioners to meet the Turkish leader,Mustafa Kemal Pasha, several times in late 1919 and early 1920, resulting in a halt to the deployment of extra forces to Cilicia.[32] A truce arranged on 28 May 1920 between the French and the Kemalists, led the French forces to retreat south of theMersin-Osmaniye railroad. The subsequent evacuation of thousands of Armenians fromSis and its environs and their migration to Adana raised the number of Armenians in the city to more than 100,000.[33] On 10 July 1920, to ease the overpopulation south of the railroad, a Franco-Armenian operation forced the local Turkish population to escape north. Roughly 40,000 Turks from Adana and around fled to the countryside and to the mountains north, an event known as theKaç Kaç incident, which lasted for four days and claimed hundreds of lives.[34] The Turkish Cilician Society (Turkish:Kilikyalılar Cemiyeti) andnational defence associations then met at a congress inPozantı on 5 August 1920 to re-establish Turkish rule over Cilicia.[35] On the same day, Mihran Damadian declared the autonomy of Cilicia by coming to an agreement with the city's Christian communities. However, the French government did not recognise its autonomy, expelled the community leaders and disbanded the Armenian Legion in September.[30]
As the political environment changed, the French abandoned all claims to Cilicia, which they had originally hoped to attach to theirmandate over Syria.[33] On 9 March 1921, theCilicia Peace Treaty was signed between France and theTurkish Grand National Assembly. However, it did not achieve its intended goals and was replaced by theTreaty of Ankara, signed on 20 October 1921. Under the terms of this agreement, France recognised the end of theCilicia War and agreed to withdraw provided that the Christian communities' rights were protected.[36] Those Armenians who were not satisfied with such guarantees rushed to Mersin port andDörtyol, and had evacuated their homeland of two millennia by December 1921.[37]
In 1922, up to 10,000 local Greeks moved to Greece before the policy ofGreco-Turkish population exchange took effect.[31][38] Among the 172,000 Armenians in the Adana area just before the Cilicia Evacuation, 80,000 took refuge in Syria or Lebanon while up 10,000 of them migrated to Cyprus, Izmir and Istanbul.[39][40] The remained 82,000 or so Armenians most likely remained in the Adana area and assimilated into Turkish/Muslim society. Armenians who settled inLebanon founded theNor Adana (English: New Adana) neighbourhood within the mostly Armeniantown of Bourj Hammoud, north-east ofBeirut.[41] From the 1920s onwards, around 60 percent of Cilician Armenians moved toArgentina. An informal census of 1941 revealed that 70 percent of all theArmenian Argentines inBuenos Aires had Adana origins.[42]
On 15 April 1923, just before the signing of theTreaty of Lausanne, the Turkish government enacted the "Law of Abandoned Properties" which confiscated the properties of Armenians and Greeks who were not present there. Adana became one of the cities with the most confiscated property, which meant thatmuhacirs (immigrants) from the Balkans andCrete, as well as migrants fromKayseri andDarende were resettled in the Armenian and Greek neighbourhoods, with more modest pieces of land, houses and workshops distributed to them. The large farms, factories, stores and mansions were granted to Kayseri notables (e.g. Nuh Naci Yazgan, Nuri Has, Mustafa Özgür) and to local nationalists (e.g. Sefa Özler, Ali Münif) as promised at theSivas Congress by Mustafa Kemal (laterAtatürk).[43] Within a decade, the city experienced drastic demographic change, socially and economically, and turned into an almost entirely Muslim/Turkish city.[31]
On 27 June 1998, the city was hit by a6.2 magnitude earthquake which killed 145 and left 1500 people wounded and many thousand homeless in the city centre and in Ceyhan district. The economic loss was estimated at US$1 billion.[44]
On 6 February 2023, Adana was one of the major cities in Southern Turkey affected by a7.8 magnitude earthquake.[45]
TheSeyhan (likely fromAncient Greek:Σάρος,romanized: Sáros) divides Adana into its two metropolitan districts, and is the main source for Adana's fertilealluvial soils, while also being responsible for the region's proclivity to regular winter and spring floods, which affected the city until embankments were built in the 1900s.[46] TheSeyhan Dam, completed in 1956, was constructed for hydroelectric power.[citation needed]
Adana has a hot-summerMediterranean climate (Csa) under theKöppen classification, and a dry summer subtropical climate (Cs) under theTrewartha classification. Winters are mild and wet. Frost does occasionally occur at night almost every winter, but snow is a very rare phenomenon. Summers are long, hot, humid and dry. During heatwaves, the temperature often reaches or exceeds 40 °C (104.0 °F). The highest recorded temperature was on 13 August 2023 at 45.7 °C (114.3 °F). The lowest recorded temperature was on 20 January 1964 at −8.1 °C (17.4 °F).
Climate data for Adana (1991–2020, extremes 1929-present)
Adana Metropolitan Municipality covers an area of 30 km2 (12 sq mi) around the City Hall.[50] Four levels of government are involved in the administration of the city; national, provincial, metropolitan and district municipalities.TheGovernment of Turkey in Ankara holds most of the power: health, education, the police and many other city-related services are administered byAnkara through an appointed Governor. The national government is also the lawmaker, adjudicator and auditor of all the other levels of government and the neighbourhood administration. Municipal governance is run via a two-tier structure: the Metropolitan Municipality forms the upper tier and the district municipalities form the lower tier. The Metropolitan Municipality takes care of construction and the maintenance of major roads and parks, and operates local transit and fire services.[51]
Adana Municipality was incorporated in 1871 though the city continued to be governed under themuhtesip system until 1877 by the first mayor Gözlüklü Süleyman Efendi. Modern municipal governance began with the second mayorKirkor Bezdikyan and his successor Sinyor Artin. Roads were widened and paved with cobblestones, drainage canals and trenches were cut, and the first municipal regulations were put into effect. After the founding of the republic in 1923, major infrastructure projects were carried out and the first planned neighbourhoods were built to the north of the city. Turhan Cemal Beriker served as mayor and governor from 1926 to 1938. With the completion of theSeyhan Dam in 1956, the city saw explosive growth and the then prime ministerAdnan Menderes showed special interest in Adana, initiating large-scale infrastructure projects like citywide underground sewer systems and rezoning residential areas. Since 1984, the cityscape has seen great change with the revitalisation of the Seyhan river and the construction of large parks and boulevards.[52]
Metropolitan Municipality Law was introduced in 1989 when municipal governance was split between the metropolitan municipality and the district municipalities. Adana Municipality became the Metropolitan Municipality and two new district municipalities - Seyhan and Yüreğir - were founded. Karaisalı was annexed to the city in 2006, while the Çukurova and Sarıçam districts were founded in 2008 by partitioning the Seyhan and Yüreğir districts. On 3 February 2012,Karataş Municipal Council agreed to amalgamate with Adana, henceKarataş will become the city's sixth district after the transition process is complete.[53]
The Metropolitan Municipality consists of three organs: the Metropolitan Council, the Mayor and the Encümen or Executive Committee. Each district municipal council elects one-fifth of their members to represent it at the metropolitan council. Thus, the metropolitan council consists of 35 councillors, ten from Seyhan district, eight from Yüreğir, eight from Çukurova, six from Sarıçam, two from Karaisalı and the metropolitan mayor who is elected directly by the voters.[54] The executive committee consists of ten members, five being metropolitan councillors and the other five directors at the metropolitan hall who are appointed by the metropolitan mayor.[55]
The City of Adana consists of the urban areas of the four metropolitan districts; Seyhan, Yüreğir, Çukurova and Sarıçam.[citation needed]
Çukurova district is a modern residential district that lies north of Seyhan district and south of the Seyhan Reservoir. It was planned in the mid-1980s to direct theurban sprawl towards land north of the city. CalledNew Adana, the project consisted of 200,000 homes includingvillas along the lake shore and high-rise apartment blocks along the wide, newly opened boulevards of Turgut Özal, Süleyman Demirel and Kenan Evren.[56]
Yüreğir district, east of the river, consists mainly of large-scale industry and low-income residential areas. With the construction of new bridges over the river and the extension of the metro line, Yüreğir became increasingly important, with the Adana Court of Justice re-locating to the district and a 47.5-hectare health campus planned for the Kazım Karabekir neighbourhood.[57] An extensive urban redevelopment plan will also convert the Sinanpaşa, Yavuzlar, Köprülü and Kışla neighbourhoods into modern residential areas.[58]
Individual neighbourhoods (mahalle) are administrative units within the district municipalities and are administered by themuhtar (headman) and the Neighborhood Seniors Council. Although elected by the neighbourhood residents, the muhtar is not granted any powers but functions as an administrator of the national government. The muhtar can raise neighbourhood issues with the district municipality and has a seat at the Adana City Assembly, an umbrella organisation for the coordination of public institutions in the city.[59]
There are a total of 254 neighbourhoods in the city.Seyhan has 99 neighbourhoods, 69 of them in the original urban area and 30 in the neighbourhoods of the former municipalities and the former villages that were converted into neighbourhoods.Yüreğir has 99 neighbourhoods, 38 in the urban area and 61 in the rural. There are29 neighbourhoods in Sarıçam,16 neighbourhoods in Çukurova and 11 in Karaisalı district. A neighbourhood population can range from 150 to 63,000.[60]
A major centre for grain and cotton production in the Ottoman period, Adana was one of Turkey's first industrialised cities and is now one of its most economically developed cities.[61] A mid-size trading city until the mid-1800s, the city attracted European traders after the United States, a major cotton supplier, became embroiled in itsCivil War. Cilician farmers exported agricultural products for the first time and started building up capital. By the start of the 20th century, factories, almost all of them processing cotton, began to operate here. The coming of the Republic accelerated industrialisation as closed plants were re-activated and state-owned plants opened. With the construction of theSeyhan Dam and improvements in agricultural techniques, there was an explosive growth in agricultural production during the 1950s. Large-scale industry grew up along the D-400 highway and the Karataş road. A service industry, especially banking, developed during this period.[62]
Extensiveneo-liberal policies adopted by then Prime MinisterTurgut Özal to centralise Turkey's economy caused almost all the Adana-based companies to move their headquarters toIstanbul. The decline in cotton planting raised the cost of raw material for manufacturing, and the city saw a wave of plant closures starting from the mid-1990s.[63] Young professionals fled the city, contributing to Adana's unenviable status as the country's topbrain drain city. Financial and human capital flight from Adana has continued to increase since 2002 due to the government's neo-liberal centralisation policies similar to Özal's. In 2010, unemployment in the city reached a record 19.1 percent.[64]
Adana was named among the 25European Regions of the Future for 2006/2007 byForeign Direct Investment magazine. Chosen alongsideKocaeli, Adana scored the highest points for cost effectiveness against Kocaeli's points for infrastructure development, while the two towns tied for points in the categories of human resources and quality of life.[65]
A leading commercial centre in southern Turkey, Adana hosts the regional headquarters of many corporate and public institutions. TÜYAP Exhibition and Congress Center hosts fairs and business conferences, and is currently the main meeting point for businesses in Çukurova.[66] The academic oriented 2000-seater Alper Akınoğlu Congress Center is expected to open in 2012 atÇukurova University campus.[67]
The Adana Chamber of Commerce (ATO) was founded in 1894 to guide and regulate the cotton trade and it is one of the oldest of its kind in Turkey. Today the Chamber has more than 25,000 member companies, and furthers the interests of businesses and advocates on their behalf.[68] TheAdana Commodity Exchange, founded in 1913, functions mainly to organise the trade in agricultural produce and livestock. It is located opposite the Metropolitan Theatre.[69] According to the Patent Registrar, an originalAdana kebab is made only by a vendor who has successfully passed an inspection conducted on the spot by the Adana Chamber of Commerce.[70]
The designation of the coastal areas of Ceyhan andYumurtalık districts as Energy-specific Industrial Areas has made Adana an attraction for hotel building. Current 5-star hotels of the city,Hilton, Seyhan and Sürmeli will be complemented bySheraton and Türkmen hotels on the river bank,Ramada and Divan hotels in the city center, Anemon hotel at the west end which are all currently under construction.[71]
Adana is the marketing and distribution centre for the Çukurova agricultural region, where cotton, wheat, corn, soy bean, barley, grapes and citrus fruits are produced in great quantities. Adana's farmers produce half of Turkey's corn and soy beans. Thirty-four percent of Turkey's peanuts and 29 percent of Turkey's oranges are harvested in Adana.[72] Most of the local farming and agricultural-based companies have their offices in Adana. Producer co-operatives play a significant role in the city's economy. Çukobirlik, Turkey's largest co-operative producer, has 36,064 members in ten provinces and does everything from planting to the marketing of cotton, peanuts, soybeans, sunflowers and canola.[73]
The Adana Agriculture Fair is the region's largest fair attracting more than 100,000 visitors from twenty nations. It hosts agriculture, livestock, poultry and dairy businesses. A Greenhouse and Gardening Fair takes place at the same time as the Agriculture Fair which is organised on a 3.5-hectare area of the TÜYAP Exhibition Center every October.[74]
Adana's large-scale industry is mostly centred on agriculture. Food processing and fabricating metal products are major industries, making up 27 percent of Adana's manufacturing,[75] but furniture and rubber/plastic product manufacturing plants are also numerous. As of 2008[update], Adana has eleven companies in Turkey's top 500 industrial firms.[76] The largest company in Adana,Temsa Global, an automotive manufacturer, has more than 2500 employees and manufactures 4000 buses annually. Marsan-Adana is the largest margarine and plant oil factory in Turkey.[77] Advansa Sasa is Europe's largest polyester manufacturer employing 2650.[78]
According toEvliya Çelebi, during the 17th century, the town was mostly composed of Turkomans but also included Arabs, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews.[80]
An Ottoman tax register from 1526 records sixteen Turkish and one Armenian residential area.[81] During the 17th century more Armenians and Greeks settled in the city.[81]
The demographics of the city changed significantly in the 1990s after the massive migration of Kurds, many of them having been forced to leave their villages in thesoutheast at the peak of theTurkey–PKK conflict.[82] The Conos, a tribe ofRomani people ofRomania, settled in Adana during theBalkan Wars; today they mainly live around the Sinanpaşa neighbourhood. Around 8,000Romani people live in Adana Province.[83] There is also a sizeable community of migrants from theBalkans andCaucasia, who settled in Adana before and during the Balkan Wars.
There were 172,000 Armenians in the Adana area in 1921, just before the Cilicia Evacuation. Around 82,000 of them were not sent into exile which explains why they remained in Adana and assimilated into Turkish society.[39] Ten thousand to 15,000 of the descendants, who are known asCrypto-Armenians, still practise their Armenian/Christian culture behind closed doors.[84] There are also many descendants of the Armenian children given to orphanages or to Muslim families for fostering in 1909 and 1915. Altogether, Adana may have the largest number of assimilated Armenians in contemporary Turkey.[85] Adana is home to a community of around 2,000 British and Americans serving atNATO's Incirlik Air Base. Before 2003, the community numbered up to 22,000 but it declined after many troops were stationed inIraq.[86]
As with other cities on the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts, Adana has a strongsecularist population. Amongst the people of faith, the majority of Turks, most of the Kurds and some of the Arabs are Sunni Muslim. Adana is also a stronghold ofAlevism, many Alevis having moved to the city fromKahramanmaraş after theMaraş Massacre of1978. Most of the Arabs of Adana areAlawites and often confused with Alevis. Alawite Arabs are known locally asNusayri orFellah. Adana also has a tiny community ofRoman Catholics and a fewJewish families.
TheUlu Cami, akülliye built in 1541 during the Ramadanid era, is the most interesting medieval mosque to survive in Adana along with itsmedrese andtürbe. The mosque is made from black and white marble with decorative window surrounds and is famous for the 16th centuryIznik tiles lining the interior. The minaret features unique Mamluk decoration and an orthogonal floor plan.
TheYağ Camii was originally built as the Church of St. James, then converted into a mosque by Ramazanoğlu Halil Bey in 1501.[87]
The Yeni Camii (New Mosque) was built in 1724 by Abdülrezzak Antaki, and is still known to some as the Antaki Mosque. The influence ofMamluk architecture is visible. A rectangular building, it has interesting stonework on its south walls.[88]
The huge and prominentSabancı Merkez Camii (Sabancı Central Mosque) on the west bank of the Seyhan river is Adana's most visited mosque and one of the largest mosques in the Middle East. Built following Ottomanarchitectural traditions, the mosque was opened in 1998 to accommodate up to 28,500 worshippers. It has six minarets, four of them 99 meters high. Its dome has a diameter of 32 meters and is 54 meters above the prayer hall. Near the Seyhan Bridge, the mosque is visible over a wide area.[89]
Adana Archaeological Museum originally opened in 1924 as one of Turkey's first ten museums. It moved to the west corner of Seyhan Bridge in 1972. The museum exhibits archeological works from all over the Çukurova. Notable exhibits include two statues of Augustus, the Achilles Sarcophagus depicting theTrojan War and statues found in the ancient cities ofMagarsus and Augusta. In 2019 it moved to a completely new location in an abandoned textiles factory.[90]
TheAtatürk Museum focuses on the War of Independence and the first years of Republic in a mansion whereAtatürk stayed during his trips to Adana.[citation needed]
Other museums, several of them in restored historic buildings, include the Karacaoğlan Museum of Literature, theAdana Museum of Cinema, the Yeşiloba Martyrs' Museum, the Mehmet Baltacı Museum of Photography and the Adana Urban Museum.[91]
The Çarşı Hamam (Turkish bath of the Bazaar) was built in 1529 by Ramazanoğlu Piri Pasha and is Adana's largesthamam. It has five domes and the interior is faced with marble. At the time it was built, water used to be brought from the Seyhan River using a sequence of canals and water wheels.[93]
Kuruköprü ChurchSaint Paul Church (Bebekli Kilise)
Nineteenth century Adana had four churches, two Armenian, one Greek Orthodox and one Roman Catholic. The Roman CatholicSaint Paul Church (Bebekli Kilise) was built in 1870 and is in the old town, close to 5 Ocak Square. It currently serves the Roman Catholic and Protestant communities.[94]
The Agios Nikolaos (St Nicholas) Greek Orthodox Church was built in 1845 in the Kuruköprü area but was converted into a museum in 1950. It was reconsecrated as a church in 2015 and renamed theKuruköprü Monumental Church.[citation needed]
The Armenian Church on Ali Münif Street, midway betweenthe Yağ Camii and theBüyük Saat, was converted into a branch of theZiraat Bank during the Republican Era. Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Apostolic Church on Abidinpaşa Street, which was in service until 1915, was used as a cinema until 1970 then demolished by the government. The Central Bank (Merkez Bankası) regional headquarters was built in its place.[95]
TheMerkez Park (Central Park) is a 33-hectareurban park on both banks of the Seyhan river, just north of the Sabancı Merkez Mosque. With a 2100-seater amphitheatre, a Chinese Garden, a Rowing Club and two cafes, it is the city's main recreational area.[citation needed]
The Süleyman Demirel Arboretum is a large botanical garden containing collections of woody plants intended partly for scientific study by Çukurova University researchers. The arboretum is also used for recreational purposes by city residents. 512 species of plants can be found in the arboretum.[97]
One of the defining features of Adana is its agriculture-based life and the agriculture-based industrial culture associated with it. However, developments in industrial life, improvements in transportation, the effects of mass communication and large-scale migration have affected Adana's culture. As in other Turkish cities, the culture in different sections of the city is often very different from that in other areas.[98]
TheInternational Sabancı Theatre Festival has been held every April since 1999. The opening show was staged on the Seyhan River and the Taşköprü by the Italian ensemble Studio Festi. The "Water Symphony" show was greeted with great enthusiasm.[100]
A street concert during the Orange Blossom Carnival in 2015
AnOrange Blossom Carnival is held every April, inspired by the scent of the city's orange-tree-lined streets. The carnival parade of 2015 attracted more than 90.000 people—the highest ever attendance at an outdoor event in Adana.[101]
The International Çukurova Instrumental Music Festival is a two-week long festival held annually in Adana,Antakya andGaziantep. In 2009, the fifth estival took place with an opening concert by theÇukurova State Symphony Orchestra.Baritone Marcin Bronikowski,pianist Vania Batchvarova, guitaristPeter Finger,cellist Ozan Tunca and pianist Zöhrap Adıgüzelzade all performed at the festival.[102]
Çukurova Art Days is a regional festival that has been taking place annually since 2007 in Adana, Mersin, Tarsus,Antakya,İskenderun,Silifke,Anamur and (in the past) inAleppo.[103]
During the mid-20th century, Adana was well known for its vibrant nightlife and manypavyons which mostly functioned as adult entertainment clubs, similar to the Japanesehostess clubs, with live music and a lounge with tables lined up on the ground floor and private rooms upstairs.[104] The firstpavyons opened before 1942 with the arrival of Englishmen who worked on the Adana-Ulukışla road that was funded by the British Government in an effort to persuade Turkey to join World War II.[105]
Thepavyons led the way for Western-style pubs and nightclubs by the late 1980s as Adana underwent big socio-economic changes. The traditional entertainment district was Sular, near the Central Station, but nowadays pubs and clubs are spread throughout the city. The bigger clubs are mostly along the river and around the lake. There are still two activepavyons, Afrodit and Maksim, but now most adult entertainment is directed at what is known locally as tele-bars which are licensed as regular pubs but function as places where bargirls entertain customers. There are around twenty tele-bars mainly in the city centre and around the old dam.[106]
A hundred-year-long tradition of dining onkebab, liver andrakı in the Kazancılar Bazaar, with street music and dancing, turned into a festival with all-night entertainment in 2010. TheWorld Rakı Festival, officially renamed the Adana Kebab and Şalgam Festival, is held on the second Saturday night of December and attracts more than 20,000 people to the old town.[107]
Armenian club Shant, one of the first football clubs of the cityNew Adana Stadium
Athletic sport life had progressed in Cilicia with the coaches that were invited to Adana from Istanbul in the early 20th century. Varag Pogharian and Mateos Zarifian played an important role in organising the athletic movement and the first sports clubs in the city were founded by the Armenian community. In 1913, Adana Türkgücü was founded by Ahmet Remzi Bey and İsmail Sefa Bey in alliance with the Istanbul Türkgücü club that had been initiated by theCommittee of Union and Progress.[108] Adana's athletic clubs joined theCilician Olympic Games held in April 1914 at a venue north ofDörtyol, a first of its kind for the region.[109]
Adana ASKİ is the major club for Women's Pro-Basketball, performing in theTurkish Women's Basketball League (TKBL). Adana ASKİ was founded as Ceyhan Belediyespor in 2000, and was renamed and moved to Adana in 2014. After the move, the club had its best season ever (2014–15), playing in the final of the Turkish Women's Cup and the semi-final of the TKBL First Division. Adana ASKİ also play their home games at Menderes Sports Hall.Adanaspor, relegated to thethird tier of theTurkish Men's Basketball League in 2016,[114] play their home games at the Menderes Sports Hall. Wheelchair basketball clubs Adana Engelliler and Martı Engelliler play in the first division of the Turkish Wheelchair Basketball League, both playing their home games at theSerinevler Sports Hall.
Water sports are also popular in Adana.Adana Demirspor'swater polo team is a legend in the community, joining theTurkish Water Polo League in 1942 after Turkey's first modern watersports venue, theAtatürk Swimming Complex, opened in Adana in 1936. The team has a record twenty-two years of straight championship titles in the Turkish Men's Water Polo League, seventeen years of it without losing a game, hence their nickname "The Unbeatables". Demirspor has a total of twenty-nine championship titles.[119]
Rowing became a popular local sport in the last twenty years. Rowing competitions are held all year long on the Seyhan River and the Seyhan Reservoir. The Metropolitan Rowing Club and Çukurova University SK compete at the national and international level.Sailing competitions[120] are also held at the Seyhan Reservoir all year round. The Adana Sailing Club competes at regattas in different categories. In swimming, Erdal Acet of Adana Demirspor is a prominent local figure, who broke the record for swimming theEnglish Channel in nine hours and two minutes in 1976. Recreationally, the lack of swimming pools make the Seyhan River and the irrigation canals attractive for swimmers who want to cool off in the hot, humid summers. With almost one hundred people drowning every year, the Metropolitan Municipality has now opened forty-one swimming pools.[121]
TheAdana Half Marathon was inaugurated in 2011 on a national level with the participation of 223 athletes. In 2012, the marathon gainedIAAF International Marathon status and hosted 610 athletes from ten nations.[122] The marathon takes place on the first Sunday after 5 January, Adana's Independence Day. The route follows Adana's historic streets and the streets along the Seyhan river.[123]
Adana has several daily newspapers, the most popular being theYeni Adana, Ekspres, Toros, Bölge and5 Ocak papers. The oldest newspaper,Yeni Adana (New Adana), dates back to 1918.[124]
Public, private and not-for-profit institutions are located in Adana. Primary and secondary education in the city is regulated by the provincial directorate of the nationalMinistry of Education which also administers the state schools.
There are 282 public and 12 private primary schools which pupils attend from grades 1 to 8. From grades 9 to 11, pupils go to one of the 85 public and 26 private high schools. Notable high schools of the city with entrance exams include the state-owned Adana Fen and Adana Anadolu High Schools, and the private Gündoğdu and Bilfen High Schools. TheAdana Gundogdu Schools is the largest private school in Adana and expands every year. There are six public and six private schools for pupils with special needs. Nine Community Training Centres help adult residents improve their skills.[125]
The requirement to pass an entrance exam for admission to high schools and universities and for a career in the civil service led to the opening of more than one hundredcrammer schools (Turkish:dershane) in the city.[126]
The Ramazanoğlu Library was founded in 1923 by combining two smaller libraries. It moved to its current location in the Sabancı Cultural Centre in 1976 and was renamed theAdana Public Library.[127] It also has a branch in the Karacaoğlan Museum of Literature. Seyhan, Yüreğir, Sarıçam and Karaisalı also have public libraries administered by each district.Adana City Library specialises in publications about Adana and Çukurova's history and culture, and has a good collection of photography and films about the city. It is located in the Adana Centre for Arts and Culture.[128]
The fifthÇukurova Book Fair took place in 2012, hosting 182,450 visitors from Çukurova and neighbouring regions. More than two hundred publishers and volunteer organisations had stands, more than 50 cultural events were performed and 300 authors were present to meet their readers. At the same time, theÇukurova Education Fair was organised at the Tüyap Exhibition Centre with the participation of 45 education institutions.[129]
Çukurova University is a state university located on the eastern shore of the Seyhan Reservoir. In 2008, it was ranked one of the top 500 universities in the world according to research conducted by Blackwell Publishing,Quacquarelli Symonds andThe Times.[130][131] It was founded in 1973 following the merger of the colleges of Agriculture and Medicine. Its campus has many cultural, social and athletic facilities for its 40,000 students.[132]
Part of Çukurova University,Balcalı Hospital is a research hospital that was founded in 1987 after the Faculty of Medicine moved to the main campus. It has 1050 inpatient beds in 47 service units, a 58-bed intensive care unit and a 17-bed emergency unit. The largest hospital in Southern and Southeastern Anatolia, it is also one of the biggest hospitals of Turkey.[134]
A new health campus is expected to open in Yüreğir by 2014, which will include a 600-bed General Hospital, 200-bed Heart and Stroke Hospital, 250-bed maternity hospital, 100-bed oncology hospital, 150-bed Physiotherapy and Rehabilitation Centre and 100-bed Psychiatry Hospital. The campus will have a capacity of 1400 inpatients and will be connected to the Hastaneler area via a bridge over the Seyhan river which will create one big campus.[135]
Adana Metro is arapid transit system that extends 14 kilometres (9 miles) from the north-west to the city centre and Yüreğir.[139] The Metro M1 line has thirteen stations and can transport 21,600 passengers an hour in each direction, a complete journey taking twenty minutes. A planned second line will run from Akıncılar to Çukurova University in the Sarıçam District. It will be 9.5 kilometres (6 miles) long and will have seven stations..The Metro will eventually cover 23.5 kilometres (14.6 miles) and serve 20 stations.[140]
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