Berat is located in the south of the country. It is surrounded by mountains and hills, includingTomorr on the east that was declared anational park. The riverOsum (total length 161 km (100 mi)) runs through the city before it empties into theSeman within theMyzeqe Plain. The municipality of Berat was formed at the 2015 local government reform by the merger of the former municipalities Berat,Otllak,Roshnik,Sinjë, andVelabisht, that became municipal units. The seat of the municipality is the city Berat.[2] The total population is 62,232 as of the 2023 census,[a][1] in a total area of 421.6 km2 (162.8 sq mi).[4][b]
Berat, designated aUNESCOWorld Heritage Site in 2008, comprises a unique style ofarchitecture with influences from several civilizations that have managed to coexist for centuries throughout thehistory. Like many cities in Albania, Berat comprises an old fortified city filled with churches and mosques painted with grandiose wealth of visiblemurals andfrescos. Berat is one of the main cultural centres of the country.[6]
Ceramic finds from the 7th century BCE initially attest to a settlement of the rocky hill of Berat by theIllyrians.[12] Berat has been identified with ancientAntipatrea.[13] Probably since the mid-4th century BCE the Illyrians went through a dynamic development, founding their own cities likeDimale andByllis; however it is uncertain whether this development among Illyrians involved also Berat, or whether the foundation of the city is to be attributed toCassander ofMacedon.[14] The founding date is unknown, although if Cassander is the founder, it would date back after he took control of southernIllyria around 314 BCE.[13]
Antipatrea was involved in theIllyrian Wars andMacedonian Wars,[15] and it is mentioned as a city ofDassaretia in southern Illyria. Along withChrysondyon,Gertous andCreonion, Antipatrea was one of the Dassaretan towns around which theIllyrian dynastSkerdilaidas and theMacedonian kingPhilip V fought in 217 BCE. The city eventually was conquered by Philip V until Roman intervention.[16][17] Antipatrea was described as the largest settlement with significant walls and referred to as the onlyurbs in the area, in contrast with other settlements that were described ascastella oroppida.[18] As reported by Roman historianLivy, in 200 BCE theRomanlegatus Lucius Apustius "stormed and subdued Antipatrea by force of arms and, after killing the men of military age and granting all the plunder to the soldiers, he demolished the walls and burned the city".[19][15] InRoman times it was included withinEpirus Nova, in theprovince of Macedonia.[20] The town became part of the unstable frontier of theByzantine Empire following the fall of thewestern Roman Empire and, along with much of the rest of theBalkan peninsula, it suffered from repeated invasions bySlavs. During the Roman and early Byzantine period, the city was known asPulcheriopolis.
TheFirst Bulgarian Empire underPresian I captured the town in the 9th century, and the city received the Slavic nameBel[i]grad ("White City"), Belegrada (Βελέγραδα) in Greek, which persisted throughout the medieval period, changing toBerat under Ottoman rule. The town became one of the most important towns in the Bulgarian regionKutmichevitsa. The Bulgarian governorElemag surrendered the city to the emperorBasil II in 1018, and the city remained in Byzantine hands until theSecond Bulgarian Empire retook the city in 1203 during the rule ofKaloyan. During the 13th century, it fell toMichael I Ducas, the ruler of theDespotate of Epirus.
The entrance of the citadel, with the 13th century ByzantineHoly Trinity Church
Byzantine EmperorMichael VIII Palaiologos sent letters to the Albanian leaders of Berat andDurrës in 1272 asking them to abandon their alliance withCharles I of Naples, leader of theKingdom of Albania, who had captured and incorporated it at the same period in the Kingdom of Albania.[21][22][23] However, they passed the letters on to Charles as a sign of their loyalty.[24]In 1274 Michael VIII recaptured Berat and after being joined by Albanians who supported the Byzantine Empire, marched unsuccessfully against theAngevin capital of Durrës.[25] In 1280-1281 the Sicilian forces underHugh the Red of Sullylaid siege to Berat. In March 1281 a relief force fromConstantinople under the command ofMichael Tarchaneiotes was able to drive off the besieging Sicilian army.[26] Later in the 13th century Berat again fell under the control of the Byzantine Empire.
The fortress of Tomorr in the early 14th century is attested asTimoro(n) under Byzantine control. In 1337, the Albanian tribes which lived in the areas of Belegrita (the region of Mt. Tomorr near Berat) andKanina rose in rebellion, and seized the fortress of Tomorr.[27][28][29] There is little detail about the rebellion in primary sources.John VI Kantakouzenos mentions that the Albanians in those areas rebelled despite the privileges whichAndronikos III Palaiologos had given them a few years earlier.[28] Andronikos led an army mainly composed of Turkish mercenaries, and defeated the Albanians, killing many and taking prisoners.[28] In 1345 (or maybe 1343) the town passed to theSerbian Empire.[30] After its dissolution in 1355 Berat came under suzerainty of its former governor,John Komnenos Asen (1345-1363),Alexander Komnenos Asen (1363-1372) andZeta ofBalsha II (1372-1385). In 1385 Berat was captured by the Ottomans, before theBattle of Savra. According to some sources, the Ottomans probably remained in Berat for some time with intention to use it as foothold to captureValona.[31] By 1396, the AlbanianMuzaka family took over control of Berat, which became the capital of thePrincipality of Berat.[32][33] In 1417 Berat became a part of theOttoman Empire.[34] In 1455Skanderbeg, a commander with an Albanian force of 14,000 and small number of Catalan soldiers unsuccessfully tried tocapture Berat from an Ottoman force of 40,000.[35]
During the early period of Ottoman rule, Berat fell into severe decline.[dubious –discuss] By the end of the 16th century it had only 710 houses. However, it began to recover by the 17th century, and became a major craft centre specializing in wood carving.
During the first part of the sixteenth century, Berat was a Christian city and did not contain any Muslim households.[36] The urban population of this period (1506-1583) increased little, with the addition of 17 houses.[37]Following their expulsion and arrival from Spain, aJewish community existed in Berat that consisted of 25 families between 1519 and 1520.[38][39]
Toward the latter part of the sixteenth century, Berat contained 461 Muslim houses and another 187 belonged to newcomers from the surrounding villages of Gjeqar, Gjerbës, Tozhar, Fratar, and Dobronik.[37]Conversion to Islam of the local urban population in Berat had increased during this time and part of the newcomer population were also Muslim converts who had Islamic names and Christian surnames.[37] Factors such as tax exemptions for Muslim urban craftsmen in exchange for military service drove many of the incoming rural first generation Muslim population to Berat.[40] Followers ofSabbatai Zevi existed in Berat among Jews during the mid-seventeenth century.[39] The Berat Jewish community took an active role in the welfare of other Jews, such as managing to attain the release of war-related captives present in Durrës in 1596.[39]
By the early seventeenth century, urban life in Berat started to resemble Ottoman and Muslim patterns.[41] From 1670 onward, Berat became a Muslim-majority city and of its 30 neighbourhoods, 19 were populated by Muslims.[42] Factors attributed to the change of the urban religious composition in Berat was pressure to covert in some neighbourhoods, and a lack of Christian priests able to provide religious services.[42]
A Greek school was operating in the city already from 1835.[46] In the late Ottoman period, the population of Berat was 10–15,000 inhabitants, with Orthodox Christians numbering some 5,000 people of whom 3,000 spoke the Aromanian language and the rest theAlbanian language.[47][48]
During the 19th century, Berat played an important part in theAlbanian national revival. Christian merchants in Berat supported the Albanian movement.[49] TheAlbanian revolts of 1833–1839 greatly impacted the city, especially with revolts that occurred in October 1833. The city's castle was surrounded by 10,000 people. Berat'smütesellim, Emin Aga, was forced to leave the city in the hands of the revolt's leaders. On October 22, 1833 the revolt's leaders drafted their requests to theSublime Porte: they would no longer allow that Berat give soldiers to the Ottoman government. They also demanded that Albania's local administration be led by Albanian people. The Ottoman government accepted the rebels' requests and nominated some Albanian officials in the city and declared an amnesty as well.[50] In August 1839 a new uprising took place in Berat. The inhabitants attacked the Ottoman forces and besieged them in the castle. Meanwhile, the rebellion spread out to the regions ofSanjak of Vlorë. The rebels leaders sent a petition to SultanAbdulmejid I to have Albanian officials in administration and to put Ismail Pasha, the nephew ofAli Pasha as a general governor. In September 1839 the rebels captured the castle, however once again the Ottoman government postponed the application of reforms in Albania.[51]
Berat became a major base of support for theLeague of Prizren, the late 19th century Albanian nationalist alliance, while the city was also represented in the formation of southern branch of the league inGjirokastër.[52] In theFirst World War, a census byAustro-Hungarian occupation forces counted 6745 Orthodox Christians and 20,919 Muslims in the Berat region.[53]
During theSecond World War, Jews were concealed in the homes and basements of 60 families from the Muslim and Christian communities in Berat.[38] Albanian Muslims in the city let Jewish people worship in the local mosque, and aStar of David can still be seen on the walls of the city's main Islamic place of worship.[54]
During the Communist era, Berat became a place of internal exile for those who were deemed public enemies, and their families. Starting in the 1950s, the village served as a political internment center from which the internees could not leave without permission.[55] Each day, internees were required to sign up at the Security Office or the police.[55] In 1963, a Deportation-Internment Commission report indicated that there were 30 interned in Berat, which consisted in part of internees those interned due to risk of escape.[55] The rest are convicted for ordinary causes. In 1967, Albanian authorIsmail Kadare was sent to Berat, where he spent two years.[56][57] Relatives of those who had fled abroad, or sympathized withTitoist Yugoslavia were also deported to Berat.[58][59][60]
In the modern period, aRomani community numbering 200-300 lives in Berat and its outskirts whereas others in a few nearby villages, at times living in difficult economic circumstances with some seasonally migrating to Greece for work.[61][62] Some Aromanian-speakers and Greek-speakers can be found in the town and nearby villages.[63]
Berat lies on the right bank of the riverOsum, a short distance from the point where it is joined by theMolisht river. The old city centre consists of three parts: Kalaja (on the castle hill), Mangalem (at the foot of the castle hill) and Gorica (on the left bank of the Osum). It has a number of buildings of architectural and historical interest. The pine forests above the city, on the slopes of the toweringTomorr mountains, provide a backdrop of appropriate grandeur. The Osumi river has cut a 915-metre deep gorge through the limestone rock on the west side of the valley to form a precipitous natural fortress, around which the town was built on several river terraces.
According to an Albanian legend, the Tomorr mountain was originally a giant, who fought with another giant (mountain) called Shpirag over a young woman. They killed each other and the girl drowned in her tears, which then became the Osum river.
Mount Shpirag, named after the second giant, is on the left bank of the gorge, above the district of Gorica. Berat is known to Albanians as the city of "One above another Windows" (a similar epithet is sometimes applied toGjirokastra), orThe City of Two Thousand Steps. It was proclaimed a 'Museum City' by the dictatorEnver Hoxha in June 1961.
Berat has aMediterranean climate (Csa) under theKöppen climate classification.[64][65][66] Summers are characterised as hot and dry with a maximum average of 28.2 °C (82.8 °F) in July.[65] Conversely, winter brings mild and wet weather with an average of 7.2 °C (45.0 °F) in January.[65] The lowest minimum temperature recorded in Berat was estimated at −12.2 °C (10.0 °F) and its highest maximum temperature at 47.1 °C (116.8 °F).[65]
By the 18th century the economy and society of Berat was closely connected to the city's craft guilds partly related to various tax exemptions that existed since the late Middle Ages. By 1750 there were twenty-two guilds, the most important of which were the tanners', the cobblers' and other leather-working guilds. Other guilds included metal-working, silver-smithing and silk-making ones.[43]
Present-day Berat houses Albania's military industry with the nearbyKuçovë base and Poliçan factory as well as a developing tourist economy as of recent years thanks to its historical sites.[citation needed]
The coexistence of religious and cultural communities over several centuries, beginning in the 4th century BC into the 18th century is apparent in Berat. The town also bears testimony to the architectural excellence of traditionalBalkan housing construction, which date to the late 18th and the 19th centuries. Some of the landmarks of that historical period could be seen in the Berat Castle, churches of the Byzantine era such as the Church of St. Mary of Blaherna (13th century), the Bachelors' Mosque, the National Ethnographic Museum, the Sultan's Mosque (built between 1481 and 1512), Leaden Mosque (built in 1555) and the Gorica Bridge.[67][68][69][70]
View of the Citadel of Berat
Berat Castle is built on a rocky hill on the right bank of the riverOsum and is accessible only from the south. After being burned down by the Romans in 200 BC the walls were strengthened in the 5th century under ByzantineEmperor Theodosius II, and were rebuilt during the 6th century under the EmperorJustinian I and again in the 13th century under the Despot of Epirus,Michael Komnenos Doukas, cousin of the Byzantine Emperor. The main entrance, on the north side, is defended by a fortified courtyard and there are three smaller entrances. The surface that the fortress encompasses made it possible to house a considerable portion of the town's inhabitants. The buildings inside the fortress were built during the 13th century and because of their characteristic architecture are preserved as cultural monuments. The population of the fortress was Christian, and it had about 20 churches (most built during the 13th century) and only one mosque, for the use of the Muslim garrison, (of which there survives only a few ruins and the base of the minaret). The churches of the fortress have been damaged through the years and only some remain.[citation needed]
TheChurch of St. Mary of Blachernae dating from the 13th century, has 16th century mural paintings by Nikollë Onufri, son of the most important post-medieval Albanian painter,Onufri. In a small tree - planted square, on a hillside inside the walls of the fortress, stands the 14th century Church of the Holy Trinity. It is built in the form of a cross and has Byzantine murals. Outside the ramparts is the Church of St. Michael (Shën Mehill), built in the 13th century. This church is reached by a steep but perfectly safe path. Near the entrance, after a guardhouse, is the little Church of St. Theodore (Shen Todher), which have wall paintings by Onufri himself. The most interesting is the cathedral of St. Nicholas, which has been well restored and is now a museum dedicated to Onufri. Onufri was the greatest of the 16th century painters in Albania. Not only was he a master of the techniques of fresco and icons, but he was the first to introduce a new colour in painting, shiny red, which the French called "Onufri's Red". In addition, Onufri introduced a certain realism and a degree of individuality in facial expression.[71]
The first inscription recording Onufri's name was found in 1951, in the Shelqan church. The Kastoria church has a date 23 July 1547 and a reference to Onufri's origin :I am Onufri, and come from the town of Berat. Onufri's style in painting was inherited by his son, Nikolla (Nicholas), though not so successful as his father. In Onufri's museum can be found works of Onufri, his son, Nikolla and other painters'. There are also numbers of icons and some fine examples of religious silversmith's work (sacred vessels, icon casings, covers of Gospel books, etc.). Berat Gospels, which date from the 4th century, are copies (the originals are preserved in the National Archives in Tirana). The church itself has an iconostasis of carved wood, with two icons of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The bishop's throne and the pulpit are also notable. Near the street running down from the fortress is the Bachelors' Mosque (Xhami e Beqareve), built in 1827. This has a portico and external decoration of flowers, plants, and houses. The 'Bachelors' were the young shop-assistants (in practice generally unmarried), whom the merchants in Berat used as their own private militia.[citation needed]
TheKing Mosque (Albanian:Xhamia e Mbretit), the oldest in the town built in the reign ofBayazid II (1481–1512),[6] is notable for its fine ceiling. It is museum in the modern period.[6]
TheLead Mosque (Xhamia e Plumbit), built in 1555 and so called from the covering of its cupola. This mosque is the centre of the town.[72]
Near of tekke is purported to be the grave ofSabbatai Zevi, anOttoman Jew who was banished toDulcigno (present day Ulcinj), who created controversy among his followers upon his conversion toIslam.[73]
A Jewish history museum named "Solomon Museum" is located in southern Berat, and contains exhibits about theHolocaust in Albania and the survival of Jews during the war in the country.[38]
The Ethnographic Museum
The town is known for its historic architecture and scenery and is known as the "Town of a Thousand Windows", due to the many large windows of the old decorated houses overlooking the town.[citation needed]
It is unclear whether it really means "Thousand" (një mijë) or "One over Another" (një mbi një) windows. Indeed, the quarter is built in a very steep place and windows seem to be one over another. Similar views can be seen inMelnik, Bulgaria,Gjirokastër in Albania, as well asCatanzaro in Italy, where an Albanian minority once lived.[citation needed]
The Citadel overlooks the river and the modern city as well as the old Christian quarter across the river. It is a well preserved area containing narrow streets, Turkish houses and Orthodox churches.[citation needed]
Modern Berat consists of three parts divided by theOsum River: Gorica ("little mountain" inOld Church Slavonic), Mangalem and Kalaja, the latter being a residential quarter within the old Byzantine citadel that overlooks the town. The town also has a 15th-century mosque and a number of churches of theAlbanian Orthodox Church, whoseautocephaly was proclaimed there in 1922. Several of the churches house works by the renowned 16th century painterOnufri.[citation needed]
Berat National Ethnographic Museum opened in 1979.[69] It contains a diversity of everyday objects from throughout Berat's history. The museum contains non-movable furniture which hold a number of household objects, wooden case, wall-closets, as well as chimneys and a well. Near the well is an olive press, wool press and many large ceramic dishes, revealing a glimpse of the historical domestic culture of Berat's citizens.[69] The ground floor has a hall with a model of a medieval street with traditional shops on both sides. On the second floor is an archive, loom, village sitting room, kitchen and sitting room.[67][70][74]
Gorica Bridge, which connects two parts of Berat, was originally built from wood in 1780 and was rebuilt with stone in the 1920s.[68] The seven-arch bridge is 129 metres (423 ft) long and 5.3 metres (17 ft) wide and is built about 10 metres (33 ft) above the average water level.[68] According to local legend, the original wooden bridge contained a dungeon in which a girl would be incarcerated and starved to appease the spirits responsible for the safety of the bridge.[67][68]
Vexhi Buharaja - Albanian literary worker,translator and orientalist
Agim Shuka - (April 1942–May 20, 1992) Was a famous Albanian film and stage actor. His mother Kristina (Leka) Shuka, daughter of Dhoksani Leka is from the Mangalem neighbourhood in Berat.
Orli Shuka - (born 27 May 1976) is aBritish-Albanian actor best known for his role as Luan, head of theAlbanian mafia inGangs of London. He is the son of Albanian actorAgim Shuka, his grandmother Kristina Leka and her Father Dhoksani Leka were from the Mangalem neighbourhood in Berat.
Babë Dudë Karbunara-born Jorgji Karbunara (22 April 1842 – 19 December 1917) Teacher and politician.One of the signatories of the Albanian Declaration of Independence.
^The municipality of Berat consists of the administrative units ofOtllak,Roshnik,Sinjë,Velabisht and Berat.[3][2] The population of the municipality results from the sum of the listed administrative units in the former as of the2011 Albanian census.
^Fiedler et al. 2021, p. 137: "Die Illyrier durchliefen eine dynamische Ent-wicklung mit Gründung eigener Städte wohl ab dem mittleren 4. Jh. v. Chr. wie Dimal und Byllis68. Ob hierzu auch Antipatreia (Berat)69 am östlichen Eingang zur Myzeqe-Ebene nur 40 km von Babunjë entfernt gehörte oder die Stadt erst durch Kassander (neu?) gegründet wurde, ist derzeit offen."
^Norwich, John Julius.The Decline and Fall of the Byzantine Empire. (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1996) p. 246-247
^Nicol 2010, p. 108: The Albanians in the district between Balagrita and Kanina had against risen in rebellion, in spite of the privileges which the emperor had recently granted themtquote (..) Balagrita lay in the region of Mount Tomor (Tomorit) near Berat.
^Osswald, Brendan (2007). "The Ethnic Composition of Medieval Epirus". In Ellis, Steven G.; Klusáková, Lud'a (eds.).Imagining Frontiers, Contesting Identities. Edizioni Plus. p. 134.ISBN978-88-8492-466-7.In 1337, the Albanians of Epirus Nova invaded the area of Berat and appeared for the first time in Epirus, seizing the fortresses of Skrepario, Timoro and Klisoura.
^Koukoudis, Asterios (2003).The Vlachs: Metropolis and Diaspora. Thessaloniki: Zitros Publications. p. 358.ISBN978-960-7760-86-9. "Berat... At the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century, of the 5,000 or so Orthodox Christians in the town, some 3,000 were Vlach-speaking and the rest Albanian-speaking."
^Skendi, Stavro (1953). "Beginnings of Albanian Nationalist and Autonomous Trends: The Albanian League, 1878-1881".American Slavic and East European Review.12 (2):219–232.doi:10.2307/2491677.JSTOR2491677.The southern branch of the League was formed at Gjinokastër (Argyrokastro), where; Albanian leaders held a meeting at which the districts of Janina, Gjinokastër, Delvina, Përmet, Berat, Vlora (Valona), Filat, Margariti, Ajdonat, Parga, Preveza, Arta, Tepelena, Kolonja, and Korca were represented.
^Odile, Daniel (1990). "The historical role of the Muslim community in Albania".Central Asian Survey.9 (3): 5.doi:10.1080/02634939008400712. "20,919 Muslims and 6745 Orthodox Christians lived in the region of Berat"
^Koinova, Maria (2000).Roma of Albania(PDF) (Report). Center for Documentation and Information on Minorities in Europe-Southeast Europe (CEDIME-SE). p. 7.
Fiedler, M.; Lahi, B.; Shehi, E.; Pánczél, S.-P.; Velo, K.; Döhner, Gregor (2021). "Ausgrabungen in der Kleinsiedlung Babunjë bei Apollonia (Albanien) Bericht zu den Kampagnen 2018–2019".Mitteilungen des Deutschen Archäologischen Instituts, Römische Abteilung.127:110–144.
Hoti, Afrim (2022)."Dyrrhachium bizantina e il suo territorio (VI-VIII sec.)". In Sonia Antonelli; Vasco La Salvia; Maria Cristina Mancini; Oliva Menozzi; Marco Moderato; Maria Carla Somma (eds.).Archaeologiae Una storia al plural: Studi in memoria di Sara Santoro. Archaeopress Publishing. pp. 245–250.ISBN978-1-80327-297-9.
Morgan, Peter (2011).Kadare: Shkrimtari dhe diktatura 1957-1990 (1 ed.). Tiranë: Shtëpia Botuese "55".ISBN978-9928-106-12-4.
Pollo, Stefanaq (1984),Historia e Shqipërisë: Vitet 30 të shek. XIX-1912 (in Albanian), Akademia e Shkencave e RPS të Shqipërisë, Instituti i Historisë,OCLC165705732
1 withAustria,Belgium,Bosnia and Herzegovina,Croatia,Czech Republic,France,Germany,Italy,North Macedonia,Poland,Romania,Slovakia,Slovenia,Spain,Switzerland andUkraine 2 This is the extension of the site that has been inscribed in North Macedonia since 1979. The area around the town of Pogradec at the shores of Lake Ohrid was inhabited by the Illyrians in the 5th century BC, followed by the Romans and the Slavs. Traces of the Roman road Via Egnatia are evidence of an important passage route in the region. The ruins of the paleo-christian church of Lin together with its floor mosaics reveal the presence of Christianity. The historical centre of Pogradec represents an example of 19th to 20th century Albanian vernacular architecture.
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