
Teardown
Apple’s beloved voice assistant is back again, this time in the form of atoilet-paper roll Mac Pro wearing a jacket. Siri can now (attempt to) answer your questions with 360°, high-fidelity sound. How did Apple fit such big sound in such a small space—and what took them so long to do it? We might just have to take it apart to find out!
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This teardown isnot a repair guide. To repair your HomePod, use ourservice manual.
What kind of tech did Apple hide in there? Here's what they've told us:
4" high-excursion, upward-firing woofer
Beamforming seven-tweeter array
Beamforming six-microphone array
Low frequency microphone for real-time woofer calibration
Top-mounted touch interface
802.11ac Wi-Fi with MIMO + Bluetooth 5.0
The HomePod may not be the tallest in this lineup, but it's certainly the most ominous.
Still, it keeps the basically cylindrical form factor typical of 360° smart speakers.
Aside from aspect ratio, the most apparent difference is that, unlike theAmazon Echo andGoogle Home, the HomePod features an integrated power supply andnon-removable power cord.
No unsightly wall-wart transformer, but also no conveniently removable (and replaceable) power cord. It does have a cool braided cord cover though.
Power cord IS apparently removable if you pull hard on it., and you can plug it back into a proprietary connector. What else to expect from Apple.
We spy a lot of regulatory information printed inconspicuously under the foot:
FCC, e-waste warnings, andEU,Australia and regulatory markings—despite the permanent US plug on our model—and a marker for beingdouble-insulated.
Newly minted model number, A1639.
And a couple tiny holes.
Weird place for some microphones. Could these holes be for barometric purposes?
What’s the FCC ID?
The tiny holes must be present to prevent a vacuum from forming when the base rests on a flat surface like a glass top.
Next we take our first good look at Apple's seamless 3D acoustic mesh.
Apple engineers developed this mesh to be acoustically transparent while protecting the HomePod's insides from dust and debris.
A sleek touch interface (in case Siri needs a break) and arather familiar LED indicator sit atop the HomePod.
Thanks toCreative Electron's X-rays, we get a peek at the internals—and it looks like there are someenormous magnets in here (as shown by those dark spots).
Our X-ray intelligence showed us some screws under the foot, so we concentrated our fire on the adhesive holding it down. Only after some serious heat-gunning were we able to slowly peel the foot up and off.
Even knowing the screws are there, we're prepared for the worst, after that gooey chore...
...but are relieved to find those repair-friendly Torx screws ready to unscrew. Also under the glue-foot is a 14-pin port, probably used to test or program HomePods onPogo pins during assembly.
Maybe those screws aren't as friendly as we thought. After removing them, the plastic plate they're holding in is ... still held in. Looks like the mesh is holding the access plate down.
Wereally don't want to cut this mesh, so we slide a pick along the glued-down edge of the mesh and pull out the plate. Our prize? More impregnable plastic that doesn't go anywhere.
Hey Siri, what's it going to take to get inside this thing?
Probably something sharp. We tried our best to keep the mesh seamless, but to no avail. Well, this won't be the first time we've had tocut through some fancy fabric.
Slicing through the thick, wiry 3D mesh, we find a secondary, internal fabric sleeve.
This thinner, more flexible sleeve is trapped under the top, so it stays put for now.
Thankfully, the interior body isn't as seamless as the mesh, and we find some more Torx screws hiding under (seriously fancy) rubber plugs.
Before you cut the fabric you can remove the cable! It’s a snap-in design which you can see here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjxILSOf...
If there’s a solid wall of plastic behind the mesh, why does it matter if the mesh is “acoustically transparent” or not?
One benefit of our newly-made seam: we get to see just what kind of fiber magic went into this sleeve.
No magic, but we can see that the mesh consists of a net-like layer on the top and bottom, with tiny wiry coils in between.
This type of construction allows sound waves to travel through the fabric, with little to no reflection, while dust is kept out.
Now that we have the mesh off, we can see that it had a drawstring all along! Does this mean that there's a non-destructive way in through the top?
In pursuit of an entrance, we peel the glue-covered top up, only to find more screws that lead—well, seemingly nowhere.
What appears so simple on the outside really is a labyrinth to open.
After evenmore heat, andanother glue pad, we diveanother layer deeper and finally hit pay dirt.
Under door number three, we get: a well-shielded board, a wide ribbon cable, and the drawstring's mooring posts.
De-shielding that board shows us some of the fun that's running the light show up top:
Texas InstrumentsTLC 5971 LED Driver
CypressCY8C4245LQI-483 Programmable System-on-Chip
The top side of the board is home to the LED indicator's LEDs and the diffuser that gives the indicator its cloudy look.
The plus and minus symbols are lit purely by the center array directed via guides nestled in notches on the board.
The next disc to come out holds those elaborate drawstring moorings—and behind it, the main logic board.
Chipwise, we spy:
Apple A8 APL1011 SoC (we’ve seen this before, but doing a different job), likely paired with 1 GB RAM layered underneath
Toshiba THGBX4G7D2LLDYC 16 GB NAND flash
USI 339S00450 (WiFi/Bluetooth Module?)
338S00100-AZ
Interestingly,the reverse has some unpopulated SMD pads, for a few chips and several passives. Maybe the HomePod underwent some last-minute design changes?
Finally: a seam we can'tseem to beat. We fire up the hacksaw (and ourultrasonic cutter) and release the super beefy woofer.
If the magnet on this woofer looks big for a speaker this size, that's because it is. Deep, dramatic bass notes depend on a speaker's ability tomove lots of air.
While that's traditionally done by increasing thecone's diameter, Apple instead increased the travel of thevoice coil (to 20 mm p-p in this case), which in turn requires a bigger magnet. That way the speaker diameter stays small, but it can still move enough air to deliver quality bass notes.
After slicing and prying our way into this fortress of a speaker, we reach the final obstacle: a threaded ring.
We're forced to conclude that—at some point—the HomePod was able to be unscrewed to separate the control/woofer component and the tweeter/power supply unit.
But we don't feel too bad about getting hacky: judging by the adhesive you can see on the lower face of the tube, the threads aren't meant for the consumer—this thing was glued shut.
No wonder Apple's repair price is80-85% of the device itself—this ain't easy. But if we got it wrong, by all means, share the magic procedure!
The next layer of our HomePod onion (or maybeparfait?) is the two-part power supply, composed of an inner block handling the AC/DC conversion, and an outer ring distributing power to all eight of the speakers.
The AC-in board's hefty hardware is flooded with epoxy, probably to keep the mad vibes from shaking it apart. It sends power to the ring board via conductive posts à laMac Pro.
We've got part two of the power supply, theStargateHalo power distribution ring, on thehook.
The capacitor-studded side of our intergalactic power supply board is home to a STMicroelectronicsSTM32L051C8T7 ultra-low-power ARM MCU.
And on the other side we find:
International Rectifier PowlRaudio 98-0431 audio amplifier
4350C Y01742 TWN
And around the perimeter, seven Analog Devices SSM35158 audio amplifiers—looks like these are the individual amps for the tweeters!
We wrestle a small board from the adhesive holding it to the barrel, and notice two ConexantCX20810 ADC chips by Synaptics for the microphone array.
Not to be outdone, the board has a microphone of its own—likely the low frequency microphone for woofer calibration.
This mic essentially listens to the woofer output and, through somefancy signal processing, fine-tunes the woofer to get the best performance possible while keeping bass levels in line with other frequencies.
Back to the rest of the microphones: they come in two long strips of three mics each. Each strip is glued firmly to the inside of the case, with the mics positioned over funnel-shaped channels.
We pull another threaded ring out of the HomeBody and finally gain access tosnow white and the seven tweeters, complete with their conductive power posts.
That's right—those gold screwposts are delivering power to the tweeters.
Taking a look at a port, we've got avery bad feeling about this. Or maybe it's the tweeter that's nervous.
The tiny foldedhorn at the front of the tweeter is a trick that audio design engineers use to increase a speaker's efficiency and control the direction of its sound. It's the same concept used in thegramophone.
Time to break out the ultrasonic cutter and pop this unit open!
With the tweeter assembly open, we get a better look at the vented, horn-loaded tweeter that gives the HomePod its "precise" sound.
The vents on the sides of thevoice coil bobbin and the four holes at the rear of the tweeter prevent air pressure from building up behind the tweeter dome as it moves.
Reduced pressure saves the dome—and the music—from distorting while the tweeter moves back and forth severalthousand times each second.
So far we haven't seen any evidence ofdiamond tweeters ... Any answers for us Dr. Geaves?
And with that: here are all the bits that make a Siri house a HomePod.
Do you know how Apple gets into these things? Did we miss a speaker nugget of wisdom? Let us know in the comments and be sure to check out our teardown video on YouTube.
Lastly, it's time to assign a repairability score. Despite many positives, if the opening procedure is truly not reversible, we're going to have to score it accordingly.


Thanks guys, very interesting report!
The power cable is actually user removable and replaceable. You just have to pull on it *really* hard.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjxILSOf...
Very good teardown! Thanks!
Apparently the AC cable is replaceable, yet not meant to be user-replaced:https://9to5mac.com/2018/02/10/remove-ho...
What is the DAC?
My best guess would be Digital to Analog Converter :)
Rok -
I can’t seem to understand how the sound from the tweeters comes out. The whole thing looks like a solid plastic tube except at the top where the woofer is. I see the tiny holes for the microphones, but how is sound dispersed from the tweeters?
I was wondering the same thing. I remember The Verge mentioning that the tweeters actually fire downwards and reflect off the table, but I can’t figure out how that works either…
It does seem like they’re down firing out of the bottom. It’s just odd there’s so much “transparent mesh” all through the sides of the speaker and no sound actually coming from the sides.
Look closely at the step 7, this thing has vents on the top and bottom
It looks like if you had opened the top first you might have been able to release the draw string and not have to cut the mesh…
Yep! We did mention that in the teardown. ;)
Step 15: Think you should look for what amplifiers drive the tweeters; looking closely at the underside of that PCB there are some parts labelled “SSM” - which may be Analog Devices IIRC?
Good catch! Thanks for the tip. We’ve added a note to that step.
I know ifixit wants everything to be repairable but I also want everything not to fall apart. Your comment about all the adhesive holding things in place is why I would consider getting this outrageous speaker. I suggest you add a second score for durability and give it at least a 9 until you can determine if the power cord can actually be removed and replaced for less than $300. I’d like to see how durable all the other speakers are. Just because you can repair them doesn’t mean everyone WANTS to have to repair them. Even if a couple of the tweeters fail, I’m sure you’ll still get some really good sound out of it.
Thanks you very much !
I think, we must be take care of our HomePod.
Would using a hack saw to open, pretty much basically make this un-repairable? I would think that would be a 0 for repairability
It gets 1 point for the few things you can get at non-destructively. It only gets 1 point because that’s a small fraction of the total system.
You guessed that the epoxy keeps the speaker from rattling its power supply apart, but it might just as likely prevent buzzin/rattling sound from vibrating parts , since this thing seems to be quite the power shaker.
Is it really built like a tank? Wow!
The idea that everything has to be repairable is utter nonsense and needs to go away. Just stop it with that. 99.9% of consumers cannot repair things, for gods’ sakes so many people don’t even know how to cook! The reason things are hard to repair these days is because of 3 main factors:
1) They would be more expensive to manufacture if they used lots of nice machine screws all over rather than glue. This cost would be passed to us.
2) If they were built weaker to make it easier to take apart, unless they are designed in a more expensive way, they would be less durable and in the case of this speaker, you’d hear buzzing and rattling noises after a while. No thanks.
3) Repairing would require detailed repair manuals, spare parts that are packaged for individual resale, logistics of all that resale. And out of millions how many need repair before outdated? Have you taken these facts into account? Easy to just want want want, how about think through what that desire actually entails and how complex it would be!
Horses for courses. I think 99.9% is way off. I have been tearing stuff apart since childhood and love to DIY. Curiosity is a huge factor. It does not always end well but iFixit has been invaluable and I consider it another tool in my repair kit! Another great job.
I’m really curious what was supposed to be on the unpopulated SMD slot on the back of the main board. Also, the shieldings on the side hasn’t been opened in the shot.
The tweeter firing direction is pretty clearly downward per the see-through picture onhttps://www.apple.com/homepod/
I do see that, just seems like such a small area (per image in step 7) for all the sound to come out compared to the size of the speaker, but I guess that’s part of the magic of getting the mics to work while sound is blaring.
You have it all wrong. There is no right to repair. Apple made it durable. JRX16, great comment. I find it far more dubious that a company that sells tools and repair knowledge is agitating for legislation that gives consumers repair rights than a company that uses adhesives to manufacture a durable and well made product. iFixit is the solution in search of a problem.
A picture of a hacksaw, seriously? Why include a sensationalist picture of “hacking at the device to fix it”? That’s very misleading to those who miss the details that a hacksaw was NOT used. I understand that not everyone is going to have a sonic cutter; but that leads me to my next point…
iFixit was so rushed to get this article out on Monday that they just King Kong’ed their way into it without re-evaluating what was the correct way. Couldn’t you have heated the outer edge of the unit to loosen the glue on the thread of the sub? Couldn’t you have unglued the top to gain access to the draw string so that you didn’t have to cut the fiber mesh?
It sounds like the major complaint was use of adhesive everywhere; but I do not believe it is unreasonable to consider Apple would do that for a device that instead to have a high rate and amplitude of vibrations, like a multi-driver speaker.
People use these tear downs as guides for fixing their device. I hope iFixit redos this article with a more sane approach.
This is not, in any way, meant to be used as a guide. That’s clearly stated in the banner right at the top. ;) If someone decides to take a hacksaw to their HomePod, that’s on them. Regarding the glue, unfortunately there’s no way to see where it’s located or even that there’s glue at all until you have the thing open.
iFixit explicitly states at the top of each of their tear-downs: “This teardown is not a repair guide.” I for one love the humor iFixit exhibits in their tear-downs. Maybe you should take a look at one or two others, you will see various forms of this humor reproduced throughout.
I’ve got a bone to pick, and it’s possible there’s a logical explanation to this I’m not seeing. Why did this score a 1/10, but the Surface Laptop scored a 0/10. I’m pretty sure both of these were destroyed to disassemble them. I don’t want to cry “fan-boy” but I consider both of these absolutely non-self-repairable and both are overpriced for their respective category. !&&* you cannot even replace a single component on this, at least the surface adapter’s AC cord can be swapped for a non-us plug (or vice-versa).
It had a few bits accessable without the hacksaw. They weren’t able to get at anything in the Surfacebook without cutting the fabric earning it an even worse score.
Great post! A question posed here rather than another site simply because there are smart folks here… Why are mics inside the unit being used to tune/modify the woofer? Why not instead do software-side processing before the sound is put out, based on analysis of the soundwave and clear understanding of the internal acoustics during hardware design? If anything, I would think once the sound is emitted from the speaker you might take into account external factors like specific room acoustics, or even air pressure(?) and then accordingly modify the sound. In that case, I’d think the mics are on the outside, not the inside. But what do I know.
somehow the speaker/microphone combination reminds me of the motion-feedback speakers that Philips promoted in the mid 1970’s.
I don’t understand the comments about products not being repairable.
There does not need to be a conflict between product lifetime, ease to repair. IFixit compared the HomePod to a tank. Well in fact you can repair tanks. And you can repair comparable speakers - for example the Sonos 3.
In the past, basically all speakers have been repaireable. And I haven’t heard “buzzing and rattling noises ” being a problem. Also with more easy to repair high-end connected speakers eg from Sonos or Raumfeld, rattling noise is not an issue.
I indeed believe it ultimately comes down to cost. Cheaper production. And not wanting to stock spare parts. Apple want to maximise their profit - which of course is their right. In fact that is the goal of every company, I guess. Even though a gross margin of ~40% or ~88,000,000,000 US$ should allow for adding a few screws.
Joking aside - I think we have a responsibility for our children, reducing waste, by products repairable and recyclable - for both glueing is not the best choice.
There are pros and cons about product repairability against cost efficiency as well as build quality. We have seen the failure of modular phone (project Ara?) which is a clear indicator that modularity/repairability (since you can swap out any component) evidently not the best selling point. Consumer prefer a neat, smooth and well built product which doesn’t break when get dropped, bent when seated on than an average, highly repairable product. It’s just not ‘sexy’ to be repairable and we have to deal with it.
That aside, why do we want repairability in the first place? Actually we don’t… but the environment need it. Imagine top of the line product that is sold in number of 100 millions get depreciated and broken after 2-3 year because 1 hard to replace component is design to fail in that period of time (planned obsolescence), we’d get ~1,7 thousand tons of electronic waste every single year.
If you as a company design unrepairable stuff, step up your game with environmental responsibility.
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