With William Dampier, Lionel Wafer joined the firstbig privateering venture into the South Seas in 1680, under theleadership of Bartholomew Sharp; and like Dampier he is an acuteobserver of strange places and unprecedented events, writing of themin a finely paced laconic style. In the following extract (taken fromKnapton's 1729 edition) Wafer describes his adventures on the threemonths' trip back across the Darien isthmus from the South into the'North' Seas, beginning with the injury to his leg, which makesnecessary his sojourn with the Cuna Indians, and ending with hiseventual reunion with Dampier and their resumption of privateering.He assembles a good deal of information about the natural history ofthe isthmus, supplying fascinating details of the tribe he livedwith, including an extraordinary account of shamanism, a descriptionof how perfectly he fooled his European companions when he met themdisguised in Indian body-paint and ornamented with a nose-ring, and ashort vocabulary of their language. It was owing to his knowledge ofthe region, particularly a fine stand of Nicaragua wood, and to hisclose links with the Cuna, that the Darien Company employed him as aconsultant when it was planning its settlement there in 1698.
Both in terms of narrow commercial interests and the larger viewsof ethnography, Wafer exerted considerable influence. As well asadvising the Darien Company, his 'Secret Report' to the BritishGovernment (reprinted in the Elliott Joyce edition) appears to be thefirst carefully considered estimate of England's options for plantinga colony in the South Seas. Besides listing the the main harbours onthe mainland coasts of Peru and Chile, Wafer recommends JuanFernandez as a tolerable achorage and a fit place for settlement,having stopped there in 1680 (the scene of Sharp's usurpation byWatling), in 1684 (picking up Will the Mosquito Indian), and again in1687 (when Davis lands the men Simson will write about). He numbersup its advantages: 'Part of the Hill[s] are covered with Woods anditt is well watered with small Rivalets; there I met with greatestQuantity of Fish I ever see. . . . Here may Black Cattle, Sheep andGoats be Easely Breed, and itt is a good place for a Look Out or toSett Wounded or Sick Men on Shore, In order for their Recovery'(Elliott Joyce 1933: 144). He is an early contributor to the debateabout a trading base in the Pacific, soon to become urgent with theformation of the South Sea Company in 1711, when Defoe raises thequestion first on Harley's account in his pamphletAn Essay on theSouth Sea Trade (1712), and later on his own inRobinsonCrusoe (1719) and again in his propagandising vision of traderoutes and stations in the Pacific,A New Voyage Round theWorld (1724). Wafer has the same facility as Defoe and Dampier instating, as he puts it, 'the True State of the Affaire as itt Lyes inTruth and Fact that he that Runnes may Read, the Rest being allTautoligy and Supurfluous' (Elliott Joyce 1933: 151). However, histerseness feeds, like theirs, a dream of incalculable riches in stillto be discovered territories that begins with de Quiros and petersout with Dalymple, fuelling speculation first in the Darien Companyand then in the South Sea Company, with dire results for theinvestors as well as the public credit of Scotland and England.
His reports of the customs and language of the Cuna people is adifferent order of information: 'a precious document of ethnohistory'(Spate 1983: 2.157). Although his description ofpawawing, andof the remarkable powers of vaticination it induces in the Indianshamans, was greeted with scepticism, causing Wafer to corroboratehis account of 'the Indian way of conjuring' with the testimony ofthe Scots settlers (Wafer 1729: 268), his data struck ethnographersas an important contribution to European knowledge of 'savage'culture. Fletcher of Saltoun, Adam Ferguson and Johann GottfriedHerder are all interested in Wafer's eyewitness accounts, not leastfor the connexions they suggest between the structure ofhunter-gatherer communities and the concept of political virtue inclassical republican theory. Fletcher of course was a leading lightof the Darien Company, but he dined with Wafer, and made much of him,more as a philosopher than as an adventurer (Elliott Joyce 1933: l;check Fletcher's other work). Herder quotes fromA New Voyageto forge an ambitious link between the remote areas of America andthe forests of Germany in terms of 'that proud savage love of libertyand war': 'A few centuries only have elapsed since the inhabitants ofGermany were patagonians' (Herder 1800: 158-64). Ferguson cites Waferalong with Charlevoix and Colden as an authority on propertyrelations among Indian tribes (Ferguson 1995: 84 n), sharing with hima knowledge of Gaelic and the customs of the Highlands that makesthem especially sensitive to the parallels between clansfolk andIndians. Wafer confessed, 'In my Youth I was well acquainted with theHigh-Land, or Primitive Irish Language; both as it is spoken in theNorth of Ireland, particularly at the Navan upon the Boyne, and aboutthe Town of Virgini upon Lough Rammer in the Barony of Castle Raghen,in the County of Cavan; and also in the High-Lands of Scotland, whereI have been up and down in several Places' (Wafer 1903: 170). If thisexplains the speed at which Wafer adjusted to the language andcustoms of the Cuna, it also supplies a corollary for Ferguson'sinterest in the patriotism of primitive cultures, especially of theAmerican Indians, which J.G.A. Pocock has ascribed to his Highlandbackground and his command of Gaelic (Pocock ?). The sentimentalreunion between Will the Miskito Indian and Robin, his cousin, atJuan Fernandez, described by Dampier and witnessed by Wafer, is oneof Ferguson's favourite examples of the ardent affection that bindsprimitive friendships (Ferguson 1995: 18).
My first going abroad was in theGreat Anne of London,Capt. Zachary Browne Commander, bound for Bantam in the Isle of Java,in the East-Indies; in the Year 1677. I was in the Service of theSurgeon of the Ship; but being then very young, I made no greatObservations in that Voyage. My Stay at Bantam was not above a Month,we being sent from thence to Jamby in the Isle of Sumatra. At thatTime there was a War between the Malayans of Iihor on the Promontoryof Malacca, and those of Jamby; and a Fleet of Proe's from Iihorblock'd up the Mouth of the River of Jamby. The Town of Jamby isabout 100 Mile up the River: But within 4 or 5 Mile of the Sea, ithath a Port Town on the River, consisting of about 15 or 20 Houses,built on Posts, as the Fashion of that Country is: The Name of thisPort is Quolla; though this seems rather an Apellative than a properName, for they generally call a PortQuolla: And `tis usualwith our English Seamen in those Parts, when they have been at aLanding-place, to say they have been at theQuolla, calling itso in Imitation of the Natives; as the Portugueze call theirLanding-places,Barcadero's. This War was some Hindrance toour Trade there; and we were forc'd to stay about 4 Months in theRoad, before we could get in our Lading of Pepper: And thence wereturn'd to Bantam, to take in the rest of our Lading. While I wasashore there, the Ship sail'd for England: So I got a Passage home inanother Ship, theBombay, Capt. White Commander; who beingChief Mate, succeeded Capt. Bennet, who dy'd in the Voyage.
I arrived in England again in the Year 1679, and after about aMonth's Stay, I entred my Self on a 2d Voyage, in a Vessel commandedby Capt. Buckenham, bound for the West-Indies. I was there also inthe Service of the Surgeon of the Ship: But when we came to Jamaica,the Season of Sugars being not yet come, the Captain was willing tomake a short Voyage, in the mean while to the Bay of Campeachy, tofetch Logwood: But having no Mind to go further with him, I staid inJamaica. It proved well for me that I did so; for in that Expedition,the Captain was taken by the Spaniards, and carried Prisoner toMexico: Where one Russel saw him, who was then also a Prisoner there,and after made his Escape. He told me he saw Capt. Buckenham, with aLog chain'd to his Leg, and a Basket at his Back, crying Bread aboutthe Streets for a Baker his Master. The Spaniards would never consentto the ramsoming him, though he was a Gentleman who had Friends of aconsiderable Fortune, and would have given them a very large Sum ofMony.
I had a Brother in Jamaica, who was imployed under Sir ThomasMuddiford, in his Plantation at the Angels: And my chief Inducementin undertaking this Voyage was to see him. I staid some time withhim, and he settled me in a House at Port-Royal, where I followed myBusiness of Surgery for some Months. But in a while I met with Capt.Cook, and Capt. Linch, 2 Privateers who were going out fromPort-Royal, toward the Coast of Cartagena, and took me along withthem. We met other Privateers, on that Coast; but being parted fromthem by Stress of Weather about Golden-Island, in the Samballoe's, westood away to the Bastimento's, where we met them again, and severalothers, who had been at the taking of Portobel, and were rendesvouzedthere. Here I first met with Mr. Dampier, and was with him in theExpedition into the S. Seas. For in short, having muster'd up ourForces at Golden-Island, and landed on the Isthmus, we march'd overLand, and took Santa Maria; and made those Excursions into the S.Seas, which Mr. Ringrose relates in the 4th Part of theHistory ofthe Buccaniers.
Mr. Dampier has told, in his Introduction to hisVoyage Roundthe World, in what Manner the Company divided with Reference toCapt. Sharp. I was of Mr. Dampier's Side in that Matter, and of theNumber of those who chose rather to return in Boats to the Isthmus,and go back again a toilsome Journey over Land, than stay under aCaptain in whom we experienc'd neither Courage nor Conduct. He hathgiven also an Account of what befel us in that Return, till such Timeas by the Carelessness of our Company, my Knee was so scorch'd withgunpowder, that after a few Days further March, I was left behindamong the Wild-Indians, in the Isthmus of Darien.
It was the 5th Day of our Journey when this Accident befel me;being also the 5th of May, in the Year 1681. I was sitting on theGround near one of our Men, who was drying of Gun-powder in a SilverPlate: But not managing it as he should, it blew up and scorch'd myKnee to that Degree, that the Bone was left bare, the Flesh beingtorn away, and my Thigh burnt for a great Way above it. I applyed toit immediately such Remedies as I had in my Knapsack: And beingunwilling to be left behind my Companions, I made hard shift to jogon, and bear them Company for a few Days; during which our Slaves ranaway from us, and among them a Negro whom the Company had allow'd mefor my particular Attendant, to carry my Medicines. He took them awaywith him, together with the rest of my Things, and thereby left medepriv'd of wherewithal to dress my Sore; insomuch that my Painincreasing upon me, and being not able to trudge it further throughRivers and Woods, I took leave of my Company, and set up my Restamong the Darien Indians.
This was on the 10th Day; and there staid with me Mr. RichardGopson, who had served an Apprenticeship to a Druggist in London. Hewas an ingenious Man, and a good Scholar; he had with him a GreekTestament which he frequently read, and would translateextempore into English to such of the Company as were dispos'dto hear him. Another who staid behind with me was John HingsonMariner: They were both so fatigued with the Journey, that they couldgo no further. There had been an Order made among us at our firstLanding to kill any who should flag in the Journey: But this was madeonly to terrify any from loitering, and being taken by the Spaniards;who by Tortures might extort from them a Discovery of our March. Butthis rigourous Order was not executed; but the Company took a verykind Leave both of these, and of me. Before this we had lost theCompany of 2 more of our Men, Robert Spratlin and William Bowman, whoparted with us at the River Congo, the Day after my being scorch'dwith Gun-powder. The Passage of that River was very deep, and theStream violent; by which Means I was born down the Current, forseveral Paces, to an Eddy in the bending of the River. Yet I gotover; but these two being the hindmost, and seeing with whatDifficulty I cross'd the River, which was still rising, they werediscourag'd from attempting it, and chose rather to stay where theywere. These 2 came to me; and the other 2 soon after the Company'sDeparture for the North Sea, as I shall have Occasion to mention; sothat there were 5 of us in all who were left behind among theIndians.
Being now forc'd to stay among them, and having no Means toalleviate the Anguish of my Wound, the Indians undertook to cure me;and apply'd to my Knee some Herbs, which they first chew'd in theirMouths to the Consistency of a Paste, and putting it on aPlantain-Leaf, laid it upon the Sore. This prov'd so effectual, thatin about 20 Days Use of this Poultess, which they applied fresh everyDay, I was perfectly cured; except only a Weakness in that Knee,which remain'd long after, and a Benummedness which I sometimes findin it to this Day. Yet they were not altogether so kind in otherRespects; for some of them look'd on us very scurvily, throwing greenPlantains to us, as we sat cringing and shivering, as you would Bonesto a Dog. This was but sorry Food; yet we were forc'd to be contentedwith it: But to mend our Commons, the young Indian, at whose House wewere left, would often give us some ripe Plantains, unknown to hisNeighbours; and these were a great Refreshment to us. This Indian, inhis Childhood was taken Prisoner by the Spaniards; and having liv'dsome time among them, he had learn'd a pretty deal of their Language,under the Bishop of Panama, whom he serv'd there; till finding Meansto escape, he was got again among his own Country-men. This was ofgood Use to us; for we having a smattering of Spanish, and a littleof the Indian's Tongue also, by passing their Country before, betweenboth these, and with the additional Use of Signs, we found it no verydifficult Matter to understand one another. He was truly generous andhospitable towards us; and so careful of us, that if in the Day-timewe had no other Provision than a few sorry green Plantains, he wouldrise in the Night, and go out by Stealth to the NeighbouringPlantain-walk, and fetch a Bundle of ripe ones from thence, which hewould distribute among us unknown to his Country-men. Not that theywere naturally inclin'd to use us thus roughly, for they aregenerally a kind and free-hearted People; but they had taken someparticular Offence, upon the Account of our Friends who left us, whohad in a Manner awed the Indian Guides they took with them for theRemainder of their Journey, and made them go with them very muchagainst their Wills; the Severity of the rainy Season being then sogreat, that even the Indians themselves had no Mind for travelling,tho' they are little curious either as to the Weather or Ways.
When Gopson, Hingson, and I had lived 3 or 4 Days in this Manner,the other 2, Spratlin and Bowman, whom we left behind at the RiverCongo, on the 6th Day of our Journey, found their way to us; beingexceedingly fatigued with rambling so long among the wild Woods andRivers without Guides, and having no other Sustenance but a fewPlantains they found here and there. They told us of George Gainy'sDisaster, whose drowning Mr. Dampier relates p. 17. They saw him liedead on the Shore which the Floods were gone off from, with the Ropetwisted about him, and his Money at his Neck; but they were sofatigued, they car'd not to meddle with it. These after their comingup to us, continued with us for about a Fortnight longer, at the samePlantation where the main Body of our Company had left us; and ourProvision was still at the same Rate, and the Countenances of theIndians as stern towards us as ever, having yet no News of theirFriends whom our Men had taken as their Guides. Yet notwithstandingtheir Disgust, they took care of my Wound; which by this Time waspretty well healed, and I was enabled to walk about. But at lengthnot finding their Men return as they expected, they were out ofPatience, and seem'd resolved to revenge on us the Injuries whichthey supposed our Friends had done to theirs. To this End they heldfrequent Consultations how they should dispose of us: Some were forkilling us, others for keeping us among them, and others for carryingus to the Spaniards, thereby to ingratiate themselves with them. Butthe greatest Part of them mortally hating the Spaniards, this lastProject was soon laid aside; and they came to this Resolution, toforbear doing any thing to us, till so much Time were expir'd as theythought might reasonably be allow'd for the Return of their Friends,whom our Men had taken with them as Guides to the North Sea-Coast;and this, as they computed would be 10 Days, reckoning it up to us ontheir Fingers.
The Time was now almost expir'd, and having no News of the Guides,the Indians began to suspect that our Men had either murther'd them,or carried them away with them; and seem'd resolv'd thereupon todestroy us. To this end they prepared a great Pile of Wood to burnus, on the 10th Day; and told us what we must trust to when the Sunwent down; for they would not execute us till then.
But it so happened that Lacenta, their Chief, passing that way,disswaded them from that Cruelty, and proposed to them to send usdown towards the North-side, and 2 Indians with us, who might informthemselves from the Indians near the Coast, what was become of theGuides. They readily hearkn'd to this Proposal, and immediately chose2 Men to conduct us to the North-side. One of these had been allalong, an inveterate Enemy to us; but the other was the kind Indian,who was so much our Friend as to rise in the Night and get us ripePlantains.
The next Day therefore we were dismissed with our 2 Guides, andmarched joyfully for 3 Days; being well assured we should not findthat our Men had done any Hurt to their Guides. The first 3 Days wemarch'd through nothing but Swamps, having great Rains, with muchThundering and Lightning; and lodg'd every Night under the droppingTrees, upon the cold Ground. The third Night we lodg'd on a smallHill, which by the next Morning was become an Island: For those greatRains had made such a Flood, that all the low Land about it wascover'd deep with Water. All this while we had no Provision, except aHandful of dry Maiz our Indian Guides gave us the first 2 Days: Butthis being spent, they return'd Home again, and left us to shift forour selves.
At this Hill we remain'd the 4th Day; and on the 5th, the Watersbeing abated, we set forward, steering North by a Pocket Compass, andmarched till 6 a Clock at Night: At which Time we arrived at a Riverabout 40 Foot wide, and very deep. Here we found a Tree fallen crossthe River, and so we believ'd our Men had past that way; thereforehere we sat down, and consulted what Course we should take.
And having debated the Matter, it was concluded upon to cross theriver, and seek the Path in which they had travelled: For this Riverrunning somewhat Northward in this Place we perswaded our selves wewere past the main Ridge of Land that divded the North-part of theIsthmus from the South; and consequently that we were not very farfrom the North-Sea. Besides, we did not consider that the great Rainswere the only Cause of the sudden Rising and Falling of the River;but thought the Tide might contribute to it, and that we were notvery far from the Sea. We went therefore over the River by the Helpof the Tree: But the Rain had made it so slippery, that `twas withgreat Difficulty that we could get over it astride, for there was nowalking on it: And tho' 4 of us got pretty well over, yet Bowman, whowas the last, slipt off, and the Stream hurried him out of Sight in aMoment, so that we concluded he was drown'd. To add to our Afflictionfor the Loss of our Consort, we sought about for a Path, but foundnone; for the late Flood had fill'd all the Land with Mud and Oaze,and therefore since we could not find a Path, we returned again, andpassed over the River on the same Tree by which we cross'd it atfirst; intending to pass down by the Side of this River, which westill thought discharged it self into the North-Sea. But when we wereover, and had gone down with the Stream a Quarter of a Mile, weespy'd our Companion setting on the Bank of the River; who when wecame to him, told us that the Violence of the Stream hurried himthither, and there, being in an Eddy, he had Time to consider wherehe was; and that by the Help of some Boughs that hung in the Water,he had got out. This Man had at this time 400 Pieces of Eight at hisBack: He was a weakly Man, a Taylor by Trade.
Here we lay all Night; and the next Day, being the 5th of ourpresent Journey, we march'd further down by the Side of the River,thro' Thickets of hollow Bamboes and Brambles, being also very weakfor want of Food: But Providence suffer'd us not to perish, tho'Hunger and Weariness had brought us even to Death's Door: For wefound there aMaccaw Tree, which afforded us Berries, of whichwe eat greedily; and having therewith somewhat satisfied our Hunger,we carried a Bundle of them away with us, and continued our marchtill Night.
The next Day, being the 6th, we marched till 4 in the Afternoon,when we arrived at another River, which join'd with that we hadhitherto coasted; and we were now inclos'd between them on a littleHill at the Conflux of them. This last River was as wide and deep asthe former; so that here we were put to aNon-plus, not beingable to find means to ford either of them, and they being here toowide for a Tree to go a-cross, unless a greater Tree than we wereable to cut down; having no Tool with us but a Macheat or long Knife.This last River also we set by the Compass, and found it run dueNorth: Which confirmed us in our mistake, that we were on theNorth-side of the main Ridge of Mountains; and therefore we resolv'dupon making two Bark-logs, to float us down the River, which weunanimously concluded would bring us to the North-Sea Coast. TheWoods afforded us hollow Bamboes fit for our purpose; and we cut theminto proper lengths, and tied them together with Twigs of a Shrublike a Vine, a great many on the Top of one Another.
By that time we had finished our Bark-logs it was Night, and wetook up our Lodging on a small Hill, where we gathered about aCartload of Wood, and made a Fire, intending to set out with ourBark-logs the next Morning. But not long after Sun-set, it fell aRaining as if Heaven and Earth would meet; which Storm wasaccompanied with horrid Claps of Thunder, and such Flashes ofLightning, of a sulphurous Smell, that we were almost stifled in theopen Air.
Thus it continued till 12 a-Clock at Night; when to our greatTerror, we could hear the Rivers roaring on both sides us; but `twasso dark, that we could see nothing but the Fire we had made, exceptwhen a flash of Lightning came. Then we could see all over the Hill,and perceive the Water approaching us; which in less than half anHour carried away our Fire. This drove us all to our shifts, everyMan seeking some means to save himself from the threatning Deluge. Wealso sought for small Trees to climb: For the place abounded withgreat Cotton Trees, of a prodigious bigness from the Root upward, andat least 40 or 50 Foot clear without Branches, so that there was noclimbing up them.
For my own Part, I was in a great Consternation, and running tosave my Life, I very opportunely met with a large Cotton Tree, whichby some accident, or thro' Age, was become Rotten, and hollow on oneSide; having a Hole in it at about the Height of 4 Foot from theGround. I immediately got up it as well as I could: And in the CavityI found a Knob, which serv'd me for a Stool; and there I sat downalmost Head and Heels together, not having room enough to stand orsit upright. In this condition I sat wishing for Day: but beingfatigued with Travel, though very hungry withal, and cold, I fellasleep: But was soon awaken'd by the Noise of great Trees which werebrought down by the Flood; and came with such force against the Tree,that they made it shake.
When I awoke I found my Knees in the Water, though the lowest Partof my hollow Trunk was, as I said, 4 Foot above the Ground; and theWater was running as swift, as it `twere in the middle of the River.The Night was still very Dark, but only when the flashes of Lightningcame: which made it so dreadful and terrible, that I forgot myHunger, and was wholly taken up with praying to God to spare my Life.While I was praying and meditating thus on my sad Condition, I sawthe Morning-Star appear; by which I knew that Day was at hand: Thischeared my drooping Spirits; and in less than half an Hour the Daybegan to dawn, the Rain and Lightning ceased, and the Waters abated,insomuch that by that time the Sun was up, the Water was gone offfrom my Tree.
Then I ventur'd out of my cold Lodging; but being stiff and theGround slippery, I could scarce stand: Yet I made a shift to rambleto the Place where we had made our fire, but found no Body there.Then I call'd out aloud, but was answer'd only with my own Eccho;which struck such Terror into me, that I fell down as dead, beingoppress'd both with Grief and Hunger; this being the 7th Day of ourFast, save only theMaccaw-berries before related.
Being in this Condition, despairing of Comfort for want of myConsorts, I lay sometime on the wet Ground, till at last I heard aVoice hard by me which in some sort revived me; but especially when Isaw Mr. Hingson one of my Companions, and the rest found us presentlyafter; having all sav'd themselves by climbing small Trees. Wegreeted each other with Tears in our Eyes, and returned Thanks to Godfor our deliverance.
The first thing we did in the Morning was to look after ourBark-logs or Rafts which we had left tied to a Tree, in order toprosecute our Voyage down the River; but coming to the Place where weleft them, we found them sunk and full of Water, which had got intothe hollow of the Bamboes, contrary to our Expectation; for wethought they would not have admitted so much as Air, but have beenlike large Bladders full blown: But it seems there were Cracks inthem which we did not perceive, and perhaps made in them by ourCarelesness in working them; for the Vessels made of these hollowBamboes are wont to hold Water very well.
This was a new Vexation to us, and how to proceed farther we knewnot; but Providence still directed all for the better: For if we hadgone down this River, which we afterwards understood to be a Riverthat runs into the River of Cheapo, and so towards the Bay of Panamaand the South Sea, it would have carried us into the midst of ourEnemies, the Spaniards, from whom we could expect no Mercy.
The Neighbourhood of the Mountains, and Steepness of the Descent,is the cause that the Rivers rise thus suddenly after these violentRains; but for the same Reason they as suddenly fall again.
But to return to my Story: being thus frustrated of our Design ofgoing down the Stream, or of crossing either of these Rivers, byReason of the sinking of our Bark-logs, we were glad to think ofreturning back to the Indian-Settlement, and Coasted up theRiver-side in the same Track we came down by. As our Hunger was readyto carry our Eyes to any Object that might afford us some Relief, ithapned that we espied a Deer fast asleep: Which we design'd ifpossible to get, and in order to it we came so very near, that wemight almost have thrown our selves on him: But one of our Menputting the Muzzle of his Gun close to him, and the shot not beingwadded, tumbled out, just before the Gun went off, and did the Deerno hurt; but starting up at the Noise, he took the River and swamover. As long as our way lay by the River side, we made a shift tokeep it well enough: But being now to take leave of the River, inorder to seek for the Indians Habitation, we were much at a loss.This was the Eighth Day, and we had no Sustenence beside theMaccaw-Berries we had got, and the Pith of aBibby-Treewe met with, which we split and eat very favourly.
After a little Consideration what Course to steer next, weconcluded it best to follow the Track of aPecary or Wild-Hog,hoping it might bring us to some old Plantain-Walk or Potato-Piece,which these Creatures often resort to, to look for Food: This broughtus, according to our expectations, to an old Plantation, and in sightof a new one. But here again fear overwhelmed us, being between twoStraights, either to starve or venture up to the Indian Houses, whombeing so near, we were now afraid of again, not knowing how theywould receive us. But since there was no avoiding it, it wasconcluded that one should go up to the House, while the rest staidbehind to see the Issue. In conclusion I went to the Plantation, andit proved the same that we came from. The Indians were all amazed tosee me, and began to ask many Questions: But I prevented them byfalling into a Swoon, occasion'd by the heat of the House, and thescent of the Meat that was boyling over the Fire. The Indians werevery officious to help me in this Extremity, and when I revived theygave me a little to eat. Then they enquir'd of me for the other 4Men; for whom they presently sent, and brought all but Gobson, whowas left a little further off, and treated us all very kindly: Forour long-expected Guides were now returned from the North-side, andgave large Commendations of the Kindness and Generosity of our Men;by which means all the Indians were become now again our very goodFriends. The Indian who was so particulary kind to us, perceiving Mr.Gobson was not yet arrived at the Plantation, carried out Victuals tohim, and after he was a little refreshed with that, brought him up tous. So that now we were all together again, and had a great deal ofcare taken of us.
Here we stayed 7 Days to refresh our selves, and then took ourMarch again: For we were desirous to get to the North-Seas as soon aswe could, and they were now more willing to guide us than everbefore; since the Guides our Party took with them, had not only beendismiss'd civilly, but with Presents also of Axes, Beads, &c. TheIndians therefore of the Village where we now were, order'd 4 lustyyoung Men to conduct us down again to the River, over which the Treewas fallen, who going now with a good will, carried us thither in oneDay; whereas we were 3 Days the first time in going thither. When wecame thither, we marched about a Mile up the River, where lay aCanoa, into which we all imbarked, and the Indians guided us up thesame River which we before thro' mistake, had strove to go down. TheIndians padled stoutly against the Stream till Night, and then welodged at a House, where these Men gave such large Commendations ofour Men, who were gone to the North-Sea, that the Master of the Housetreated us after the best Manner. The next Day we set out again with2 Indians more, who made 6 in all, to row or paddle us; and ourCondition now was well altered.
In 6 Days time after this, they brought us to Lacenta's House, whohad before saved our Lives.
This House is situated on a fine little Hill, on which grows thestateliest Grove of Cotton Trees that ever I saw. The Bodies of theseTrees were generally 6 Foot in Diameter, nay some 8, 9, 10, 11; for 4Indians and my self took hand in hand round a Tree, and could notfathom it by 3 Foot. Here was likewise a stately Plantain-walk, and aGrove of other small Trees, that would make a Pleasant artificialWilderness, if Industry and Art were bestowed on it.
The Circumference of this pleasant little Hill, contains at least100 Acres of Land; and is a Peninsula of an oval Form, almostsurrounded with 2 great Rivers, one coming from the East, the otherfrom the West; which approaching within 40 Foot of each other, at theFront of the Peninsula, separate again, embracing the Hill, and meeton the other Side, making there one pretty large River which runsvery swift. There is therefore but one Way to come in towards thisSeat; which as I before observed is not above 40 Foot wide, betweenthe Rivers on each Side; and `tis fenced with hollow Bamboes,Popes-heads and Prickle-pears, so thick set from one Side the Neck ofLand to the other, that `tis impossible for an Enemy to approach it.
On this Hill live 50 principal Men of the Country, all underLacenta's Command, who is a Prince over all the South-part of theIsthmus of Darien; the Indians both there and on the North-side also,paying him great Respect: But the South-side is his Country, and thisHill his Seat or Palace. There is only one Canoa belonging to it,which serves to ferry over Lacenta and the rest of them.
When we were arrived at this Place, Lacenta discharged our Guides,and sent them back again, telling us, that `twas not possible for usto travel to the North-side at this Season; for the rainy Season wasnow in its Heighth, and Travelling very bad; but told us we shouldstay with him, and he would take care of us: And we were forc'd tocomply with him.
We had not been long here before an Occurrence happen'd, whichtended much to the increasing the good Opinion Lacenta and his Peoplehad conceiv'd of us, and brought me into particular Esteem with them.
It so happen'd, that one of Lacenta's Wives being indisposed, wasto be let Blood; which the Indians perform in this Manner: ThePatient is seated on a Stone in the River, and one with a small Bowshoots little Arrows in the naked Body of the Patient, up and down;shooting them as fast as he can, and not missing any Part. But theArrows are gaged, so that they penetrate no farther than we generallythrust our Lancets: And if by chance they hit a Vein which is full ofWind and the Blood spurts out a little they will leap and skip about,shewing many Antick Gestures, by way of Rejoycing and Triumph.
I was by while this was performing on Lacenta's Lady: Andperceiving their Ignorance told Lacenta, that if he pleased, I wouldshew him a better way, without putting the Patient to so muchTorment. Let me see, says he; and at his Command I bound up her Armwith a Piece of Bark, and with my Lancet breathed a Vein: But thisrash Attempt had like to have cost me my Life. For Lacenta seeing theBlood issue out in a Stream, which us'd to come Drop by Drop, gothold of his Lance and swore by his Tooth, that if she did anyotherwise than well, he would have my Heart's Blood. I was not moved,but desired him to be patient, and I drew off about 12 Ounces, andbound up her Arm, and desired she might rest till the next Day: Bywhich Means the Fever abated, and she had not another Fit. Thisgain'd me so much Reputation, that Lacenta came to me, and before allhis Attendants, bowed and kiss'd my Hand. Then the rest came thickabout me, and some kissed my Hand, others my Knee, and some my Foot:After which I was taken up in a Hammock, and carried on Men'sShoulders, Lacenta himself making a Speech in my Praise, andcommending me as much superiour to any of their Doctors. Thus I wascarried about from Plantation to Plantation, and lived in greatSplendour and Repute, administring both Physick and Phlebotomy tothose that wanted. For though I lost my Salves and Plaisters, whenthe Negro ran away with my Knapsack, yet I preserv'd a Box ofInstruments, and a few Medicaments wrapt up in an Oil Cloth, byhaving them in my Pocket, where I generally carried them.
I lived thus some Months among the Indians, who in a Manner ador'dme. Some of these Indians had been Slaves to the Spaniards, and hadmade their Escapes; which I suppose was the Cause of their expressinga Desire of Baptism: But more to have an European Name given themthan for any thing they know of Christianity.
During my Abode with Lacenta, I often accompanied him a Hunting,wherein he took great Delight, here being good Game. I was one Timeabout the Beginning of the dry Season, accompanying him toward theSouth-East part of the Country, and we pass'd by a River where theSpaniards were gathering Gold. I took this River to be one of thosewhich comes from the Gulph of St. Michael. When we came near thePlace where they wrought, we stole softly through the Woods, andplacing our selves behind the great Trees, looked on them a goodwhile, they not seeing us. The Manner of their getting Gold is asfollows. They have little wooden Dishes which they dip softly intothe Water, and take it up half full of Sand, which they draw gentlyout of the Water; and every dipping they take up Gold mix'd with theSand Water, more or less. This they shake, and the Sand riseth, andgoes over the Brims of the Dish with the Water; but the Gold settlesto the Bottom. This done they bring it out and dry it in the Sun, andthen pound it in a Mortar. Then they take it out and spread it onPaper, and having a Load-stone they move that over it, which drawsall the Iron, &c. from it, and then leaves the Gold clean fromOre or Filth; and this they bottle up in Gourds or Calabashes. Inthis Manner they work during the dry Season, which is 3 Months; forin the wet Time the Gold is washed from the Mountains by violentRains, and then commonly the Rivers are very deep; but now in thegathering Season, when they are fallen again, they are not above aFoot deep. Having spent the dry Season in gathering, they imbark insmall Vessels for Santa Maria Town; and if they meet with goodSuccess and a favourable Time, they carry with them, by Report (for Ilearnt these Particulars of a Spaniard whom we took at Santa Mariaunder Captain Sharp) 18 or 20000 Pound Weight of Gold: But whetherthey gather more or less, `tis incredible to report the Store of Goldwhich is yearly wash'd down out of these Rivers.
During these Progresses I made with Lacenta, my 4 Companions staidbehind at his Seat; but I had by this Time so far ingratiated my selfwith Lacenta, that he would never go any where without me, and Iplainly perceiv'd he intended to keep me in this Country all the Daysof my Life; which raised some anxious Thoughts in me, but I conceal'dthem as well as I could.
Pursuing our Sport one Day, it hapned we started aPecary,which held the Indians and their Dogs in Play the greatest Part ofthe Day; till Lacenta was almost spent for want of Victuals, and wasso troubled at his ill Success that he impatiently wish'd for somebetter Way of managing this Sort of Game.
I now understood their Language pretty well, and finding whattroubled him, I took this Opportunity to attempt the getting myLiberty to depart, by commending to him our English Dogs, and makingan Offer of bringing him a few of them from England, if he wouldsuffer me to go thither for a short Time. He demurr'd at this Motiona-while; but at length he swore by his Tooth, laying his Fingers onit, that I should have my Liberty, and for my Sake the other 4 withme; provided I would promise and swear by my Tooth, that I wouldreturn and marry among them; for he had made me a Promise of hisDaughter in Marriage, but she was not then marriageable. I acceptedof the Conditions: And he further promised, that at my Return hewould do for me beyond my Expectation.
I return'd him Thanks, and was the next Day dismiss'd under theConvoy of 7 lusty Fellows; and we had 4 Women to carry ourProvisions, and my Cloaths, which were only a Linnen Frock and a pairof Breeches. These I saved to cover my Nakedness, if ever I shouldcome among Christians again; for at this Time I went naked as theSalvages, and was painted by their Women; but I would not suffer themto prick my Skin, to rub the Paint in, as they use to do, but only tolay it on in little Specks.
Thus we departed from the Neighbourhood of the South Seas, whereLacenta was hunting, to his Seat or Palace, where I arrived in about15 Days, to the great Joy of my Consorts; who had staid there duringthis hunting Expedition I made with Lacenta to the South-East.
After many Salutations on both Sides, and some joyful Tears, Itold them how I got my Liberty of Lacenta, and what I promised at myReturn; and they were very glad at the Hopes of getting away, afterso long a Stay in a Salvage Country.
I staid here some few Days till I was refreshed, and then with myCompanions marched away for the North-Seas, having a strong Convoy ofarmed Indians for our Guides.
We travelled over many very high Mountains; at last we came to onesurpassing the rest in Heighth, to which we were 4 Days graduallyascending, tho' now and then with some Descent between while. Beingon the Top, I perceiv'd a strange Giddiness in my Head; and enquiringboth of my Companions, and the Indians, they all assured me therewere in the like Condition; which I can only impute to the Height ofthe Mountains, and the Clearness of the Air. I take this part of theMountains to have been higher than either that which we cross'd withCaptain Sharp, or that which Mr. Dampier and the rest of our Partycross'd in their Return: For from this Eminence, the Tops of theMountains over which we passed before, seem'd very much below us, andsometimes we could not see them for the Clouds between; but when theClouds flew over the Tops of the Hill, they would break, and then wecould discern them, looking as it were thro' so many Loop-holes.
I desired 2 Men to lie on my Legs, while I laid my Head over thatSide of the Mountain which was most perpendicular; but could see noGround for the Clouds that were between. The Indians carried us overa Ridge so narrow that we were forced to straddle over on ourBreeches; and the Indians took the same Care of themselves, handingtheir Bows, Arrows, and Luggage, from one to another. As we descendedwe were all cured of our Giddiness.
When we came to the Foot of the Mountain we found a River that raninto the North-Seas, and near the Side of it were a few IndianHouses, which afforded us indifferent good Entertainment. Here we layone Night, it being the first House I had seen for 6 Days; my Lodgingby the way being a Hammock made fast to 2 Trees, and my covering aPlantain-Leaf.
The next Morning we set forward, and in 2 Days Time arrived at theSea-side, and were met by 40 of the best Sort of Indians in theCountry, who congratulated our coming and welcom'd us to theirHouses. They were all in their finest Robes, which are long whiteGowns, reaching to their Ancles, with Fringes at the Bottom, and intheir Hands they had half Pikes. But of these Things, and such otherParticulars as I observ'd during my Abode in this Country, I shallsay more when I come to describe it.
We presently enquired of these Indians when they expected anyShips? They told us they knew not, but would enquire; and thereforethey sent for one of their Conjurers, who immediately went to work toraise the Devil, to enquire of him at what Time a Ship would arrivehere; for they are very expert and skilful in their Sort ofDiabolical Conjurations. We were in the House with them, and theyfirst began to work with making a Partition with Hammocks, that thePawawers, for so they call these Conjurers, might be bythemselves. They continued some time at their Exercise, and we couldhear them make most hideous Yellings and Shrieks; imitating theVoices of all their kind of Birds and Beasts. With their own Noise,they joyn'd that of several Stones struck together, and ofConch-shells, and of a sorry Sort of Drums made of hollow Bamboes,which they beat upon; making a jarring Noise also with Stringsfasten'd to the larger Bones of Beasts. And every now and then theywould make a dreadful Exclamation, and clattering all of a sudden,would as suddenly make a Pause and a profound Silence. But findingthat after a considerable Time no Answer was made them, theyconcluded that `twas because we were in the House, and so turn'd usout, and went to work again. But still finding no Return, after anHour or more, they made a new Search in our Apartment; and findingsome of our Cloaths hanging up in a Basket against the Wall, theythrew `em out of Doors in great Disdain. Then they fell once more totheirPawawing; and after a little time they came out withtheir Answer, but all in a Muck-sweat; so that they first went downto the River and washed themselves, and then came and deliver'd theOracle to us, which was to this Effect: That the 10th Day from thatTime there would arrive 2 Ships; and that in the Morning of the 10thDay we should hear first one Gun, and sometime after that another;that one of us should die soon after; and that going aboard we shouldlose one of our Guns: All which fell out exactly according to thePrediction.
For on the 10th Day in the Morning we heard the Guns, first one,and then another, in the Manner that was told us; and one of our Gunsor Fusees was lost in going aboard the Ships; For we 5, and 3 of theIndians went off to the Ships in aCanoa; but as we cross'dthe Bar of the River it overset, where Mr. Gopson, one of myConsorts, was like to be drowned; and tho' we recover'd him out ofthe Water, yet he lost his Gun according to the Prediction. I knownot how this happen'd as to his Gun; but ours were all lash'd down tothe Side of the Canoa: And in the West-Indies we never go into aCanoa but a little Matter oversets, but we make fast our Guns to theSides or Seats: And I suppose Mr. Gopson, who was a very careful andsensible Man, had lash'd down his also, tho' not fast enough.
Being over-set, and our Canoa turn'd upside down, we got to Shoreas well as we could, and dragg'd Mr. Gopson with us, tho' withDifficulty. Then we put off again, and kept more along the Shore, andat length stood over to La Sound's Key, where the 2 Ships lay, anEnglish Sloop, and a Spanish Tartan, which the English had taken but2 or 3 Days before. We knew by the Make of this last that it was aSpanish Vessel, before we came up with it: But seeing it in Companywith an English one, we thought they must be Consorts; and whetherthe Spanish Vessel should prove to be under the English one, or theEnglish under that, we were resolv'd to put it to the Venture, andget aboard, being quite tir'd with our Stay among the wild Indians.The Indians were more afraid of its being a Vessel of Spaniards,their Enemies as well as ours: For this was another Particular theytold us 10 Days before, when they werePawawing, that whentheir Oracle inform'd them that 2 Vessels would arrive at this Time,they understood by their Daemons Answer, that one of them would be anEnglish one; but as to the other, he spake so dubiously, that theywere much afraid it would be a Spanish one; and `twas not withoutgreat Difficulty that we now perswaded them to go aboard with us;which was another remarkable Circumstance, since this Vessel was notonly a Spanish one, but actually under the Command of the Spaniardsat the Time of thePawawing, and some Days after, till takenby the English.
We went aboard the English Sloop, and our Indians Friends with us,and were receiv'd with a very hearty Welcome. The 4 Englishmen withme were presently known and caress'd by the Ship's Crew; but I sat awhile cringing upon my Hams among the Indians, after their Fashion,painted as they were, and all naked but only about the Waist, andwith my Nose-piece (of which more hereafter) hanging over my Mouth. Iwas willing to try if they knew me in this Disguise; and `twas thebetter Part of an Hour before one of the Crew, looking more narrowlyupon me, cry'd out,Here's our Doctor; and immediately theyall congratulated my Arrival among them. I did what I could presentlyto wash off my Paint; but `twas near a Month before I could gettolerably rid of it, having had my Skin so long stain'd with it, andthe Pigment dry'd on in the Sun: And when it did come off, `twasusually with the peeling off of Skin and all. As for Mr. Gopson, webrought him alive to the Ship, yet he did not recover his Fatigues,and his drenching in the Water, but having languish'd aboard about 3Days, he died there at La Sound's Key; and his Death verify'd anotherPart of thePawawer's Prediction. Our Indians, having beenkindly entertained aboard for about 6 or 7 Days; and many others ofthem, who went to and fro with their Wives and Children, and Lacentaamong them, visiting us about a Fortnight or 3 Weeks, we at lengthtook leave of them, except 2 or 3 of them who would needs go with usto Windward; and we set sail, with the Tartan in our Company, firstto the more Eastern Isles of the Samballoes, and then towards theCoast of Cartagene.
But I shall not enter into the Discourse of our Voyage after this,Mr. Dampier, who was in the same Vessel, having done it particularly.It may suffice just to intimate, That I was cruising with him up anddown the West-India Coast and Islands, partly under Capt. Wright, andpartly under Capt. Yanky; till such time as Capt. Yanky left Mr.Dampier and the rest under Capt. Wright, at the Isle of Salt Tortuga,as Mr. Dampier relates in the 3d Chapter of hisVoyage round theWorld, p. 58. I went then away with Capt. Yanky first to the Isleof Ash where the French took us, as he relates occasionally, Chap. 4.p. 68. as also their turning us there ashore; our being taken in byCapt. Tristian another French Man; his carrying us with him almost toPetit-Guaves; our Men seizing the Ship when he was gone ashore,carrying it back to the Isle of Ash, and there taking in the rest ofour Crew: The taking the French Ship with Wines, and the other inwhich Capt. Cook, who was then of our Crew, went afterwards to theSouth-Seas, after having first been at Virginia: So that we arrivedin Virginia with these Prizes about 8 or 9 Months after Mr. Dampiercame thither. I set out with him also in that new Expedition to theSouth-Seas under Capt. Cook, though he forgot to mention me in thatPart of his Voyages. We went round Terra del Fuego, and so up theSouth-Sea Coast, along Chili, Peru, and Mexico, as he relates atlarge in his 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th Chapters. There, p. 223, hetells how Capt. Davis, who had succeeded Capt. Cook at his Death,broke off Consortship with Capt. Swan, whom we had met with in theSouth-Seas. That himself being desirous to stand over to theEast-Indies, went aboard Capt. Swan: But I remain'd aboard the sameShip, now under Capt. Davis, and return'd with him the way I came.Some few Particulars that I observ'd in that Return, I shall speak ofat the Conclusion of the Book: In the mean while, having given thisSummary account of the Course of my Travels, from my first partingwith Mr. Dampier in the Isthmus, till my last leaving him in theSouth-Seas, I shall now go on with the particular Description of theIsthmus of America, which was the main Thing I intended publishing inthese Relations.
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