§ 1.1.1 If the scientific investigation of any subject be the proper avocation of the philosopher, Geography, the science of which we propose to treat, is certainly entitled to a high place; and this is evident from many considerations. They who first ventured to handle the matter were distinguished men.Homer,Anaximander theMilesian, andHecataeus, (his fellow-citizen according toEratosthenes,)Democritus,Eudoxus,Dicaearchus,Ephorus, with many others, and after theseErastosthenes,Polybius, andPosidonius, all of them philosophers. Nor is the great learning, through which alone this subject can be approached, possessed by any but a person acquainted with both human and divine things, and these attainments constitute what is called philosophy. In addition to its vast importance in regard to social life, and the art of government, Geography unfolds to us the celestial phenomena, acquaints us with the occupants of the land and ocean, and the vegetation, fruits, and peculiarities of the various quarters of the earth, a knowledge of which marks him who cultivates it as a man earnest in the great problem of life and happiness.
§ 1.1.2 Admitting this, let us examine more in detail the points we have advanced. And first, [we maintain, ] that both we and our predecessors, amongst whom isHipparchus, do justly regardHomer as the founder of geographical science, for he not only excelled all, ancient as well as modern, in the sublimity of his poetry, but also in his experience of social life. Thus it was that he not only exerted himself to become familiar with as many historic facts as possible, and transmit them to posterity, but also with the various regions of the inhabited land and sea, some intimately, others in a more general manner. For otherwise he would not have reached the utmost limits of the earth, traversing it in his imagination.
§ 1.1.3 First, he stated that the earth was entirely encompassed by the ocean, as in truth it is; afterwards he described the countries, specifying some by name, others more generally by various indications, explicitly definingLibya,Ethiopia, theSidonians, and theErembi (by which latter are probably intended theTroglodyteArabians); and alluding to those farther east and west as the lands washed by the ocean, for in ocean he believed both the sun and constellations to rise and set. "Now from the gently-swelling flood profound The sun arising, with his earliest rays, In his ascent to heaven smote on the fields." (Iliad vii. 421). "And now the radiant sun in ocean sank, Dragging night after him o'er all the earth." (Iliad viii. 485). The stars also he describes as bathed in the ocean.
§ 1.1.4 He portrays the happiness of the people of the West, and the salubrity of their climate, having no doubt heard of the abundance ofIberia, which had attracted the arms ofHercules, afterwards of thePhoenicians, who acquired there an extended rule, and finally of the Romans. There the airs ofZephyr breathe, there the poet feigned the fields ofElysium, when he tells usMenelaus was sent thither by the gods: "Thee the gods Have destined to the blestElysian isles,Earth's utmost boundaries.Rhadamanthus there For ever reigns, and there the human kind Enjoy the easiest life; no snow is there, No biting winter, and no drenching shower, ButZephyr always gently from the sea Breathes on them, to refresh the happy race." [Od. iv. 563]
§ 1.1.5 TheIsles of the Blest are on the extreme west ofMaurusia, near where its shore runs parallel to the opposite coast of Spain; and it is clear he considered these regions also Blest, from their contiguity to the Islands.
§ 1.1.6 He tells us also, that theEthiopians are far removed, and bounded by the ocean: far removed, — " TheEthiopians, utmost of mankind, These eastward situate, those toward the west." [Od. i. 23] Nor was he mistaken in calling them separated into two divisions, as we shall presently show: and next to the ocean, — " For to the banks of theOceanus, WhereEthiopia holds a feast toJove, He journey'd yesterday." Speaking of the Bear, he implies that the most northern part of the earth is bounded by the ocean: "Only star of these denied To slake his beams in Ocean's briny baths." Iliad xviii. 489; [Od. v. 275.] Now, by the "Bear" and the "Wain," he means the Arctic Circle; otherwise he would never have said, "It alone is deprived of the baths of the ocean," when such an infinity of stars is to be seen continually revolving in that part of the hemisphere. Let no one any longer blame his ignorance for being merely acquainted with one Bear, when there are two. It is probable that the second was not considered a constellation until, on thePhoenicians specially designating it, and employing it in navigation, it became known as one to the Greeks. Such is the case with theHair of Berenice, andCanopus, whose names are but of yesterday; and, asAratus remarks, there are numbers which have not yet received any designation.Crates, therefore, is mistaken when, endeavouring to amend what is correct, he reads the verse thus: "οἷος δ᾽ ἄμμορός ἐστι λοετρῶν," replacing οἴη by οἶς, with a view to make the adjective agree with the Arctic Circle, which is masculine; instead of the Arctic Constellation, which is feminine. The expression ofHeraclitus is far more preferable and Homeric, who thus figuratively describes the Arctic Circle as the Bear, — "The Bear is the limit of the dawn and of the evening, and from the region of the Bear we have fine weather." Now it is not the constellation of the Bear, but the Arctic Circle, which is the limit of the rising and the setting stars. By the Bear, then, which he elsewhere calls the Wain, and describes as pursuingOrion,Homer means us to understand the Arctic Circle; and by the ocean, that horizon into which, and out of which, the stars rise and set. When he says that the Bear turns round and is deprived of the ocean, he was aware that the Arctic Circle [always] extended to the sign opposite the most northern point of the horizon. Adapting the words of the poet to this view, by that part of the earth nearest to the ocean we must understand the horizon, and by the Arctic Circle that which extends to the signs which seem to our senses to touch in succession the most northern point of the horizon. Thus, according to him, this portion of the earth is washed by the ocean. With the nations of the North he was well acquainted, although he does not mention them by name, and indeed at the present day there is no regular title by which they are all distinguished. He informs us of their mode of life, describing them as "wanderers," "noble milkers of mares," "living on cheese," and "without wealth."
§ 1.1.7 In the following speech ofJuno, he states that the ocean surrounds the earth. " For to the green earth's utmost bounds I go, To visit there the parent of the gods,Oceanus." Iliad xiv. 200. Does he not here assert that ocean bounds all its extremities, and does it not surround these extremities? Again, in the Hoplopoeia, he places the ocean in a circle round the border ofAchilles' shield. Another proof of the extent of his knowledge, is his acquaintance with the ebb and flow of the sea, calling it "the ebbing ocean." Again, "Each day she thrice disgorges, and again Thrice drinks, insatiate, the deluge down." The assertion of thrice, instead of twice, is either an error of the author, or a blunder of the scribe, but the phenomenon is the same, and the expression soft-flowing, has reference to the flood-tide, which has a gentle swell, and does not flow with a full rush.Posidonius believes that whereHomer describes the rocks as at one time covered with the waves, and at another left bare, and when he compares the ocean to a river, he alludes to the flow of the ocean. The first supposition is correct, but for the second there is no ground; inasmuch as there can be no comparison between the flow, much less the ebb of the sea, and the current of a river. There is more probability in the explanation ofCrates, thatHomer describes the whole ocean as deep-flowing, ebbing, and also calls it a river, and that he also describes a part of the ocean as a river, and the flow of a river; and that he is speaking of a part, and not the whole, when he thus writes: — "When down the smoothOceanus impell'd By prosperous gales, my galley, once again, Cleaving the billows of the spacious deep, Had reach'd theAeaean isle." He does not, however, mean the whole, but the flow of the river in the ocean, which forms but a part of the ocean.Crates says, he speaks of an estuary or gulf, extending from the winter tropic towards the south pole. Now any one quitting this, might still be in the ocean; but for a person to leave the whole and still to be in the whole, is an impossibility. ButHomer says, that leaving the flow of the river, the ship entered on the waves of the sea, which is the same as the ocean. If you take it otherwise you make him say, that departing from the ocean he came to the ocean. But this requires further discussion.
§ 1.1.8 Perception and experience alike inform us, that the earth we inhabit is an island: since wherever men have approached the termination of the land, the sea, which we designate ocean, has been met with: and reason assures us of the similarity of those places which our senses have not been permitted to survey. For in the east the land occupied by theIndians, and in the west by theIberians andMaurusians, is wholly encompassed [by water], and so is the greater part on the south and north. And as to what remains as yet unexplored by us, because navigators, sailing from opposite points, have not hitherto fallen in with each other, it is not much, as any one may see who will compare the distances between those places with which we are already acquainted. Nor is it likely that theAtlantic Ocean is divided into two seas by narrow isthmuses so placed as to prevent circumnavigation: how much more probable that it is confluent and uninterrupted! Those who have returned from an attempt to circumnavigate the earth, do not say they have been prevented from continuing their voyage by any opposing continent, for the sea remained perfectly open, but through want of resolution, and the scarcity of provision. This theory too accords better with the ebb and flow of the ocean, for the phenomenon, both in the increase and diminution, is everywhere identical, or at all events has but little difference, as if produced by the agitation of one sea, and resulting from one cause.
§ 1.1.9 We must not creditHipparchus, who combats this opinion, denying that the ocean is every where similarly affected; or that even if it were, it would not follow that theAtlantic flowed in a circle, and thus continually returned into itself.Seleucus, theBabylonian, is his authority for this assertion. For a further investigation of the ocean and its tides we refer toPosidonius andAthenodorus, who have fully discussed this subject: we will now only remark that this view agrees better with the uniformity of the phenomenon; and that the greater the amount of moisture surrounding the earth, the easier would the heavenly bodies be supplied with vapours from thence.
§ 1.1.10 Homer, besides the boundaries of the earth, which he fully describes, was likewise well acquainted with the Mediterranean. Starting from thePillars, this sea is encompassed byLibya,Egypt, andPhoenicia, then by the coasts oppositeCyprus, theSolymi,Lycia, andCaria, and then by the shore which stretches betweenMycale andTroas, and the adjacent islands, every one of which he mentions, as well as those of thePropontis and theEuxine, as far asColchis, and the locality ofJason's expedition. Furthermore, he was acquainted with the CimmerianBosphorus, having known theCimmerians, and that not merely by name, but as being familiar with themselves. About his time, or a little before, they had ravaged the whole country, from theBosphorus toIonia. Their climate he characterizes as dismal, in the following lines: — " With clouds and darkness veil'd, on whom the sun Deigns not to look with his beam-darting eye, But sad night canopies the woeful race." [Od. xi. 15] and 19. He must also have been acquainted with theIster, since he speaks of theMysians, a Thracian race, dwelling on the banks of theIster. He knew also the whole Thracian coast adjacent thereto, as far as thePeneus, for he mentions individually thePaeonians,Athos, theAxius, and the neighbouring islands. From hence toThesprotis is the Grecian shore, with the whole of which he was acquainted. He was besides familiar with the whole ofItaly, and speaks of Temese and theSicilians, as well as the whole of Spain and its fertility, as we have said before. If he omits various intermediate places this must be pardoned, for even the compiler of a Geography overlooks numerous details. We must forgive him too for intermingling fabulous narrative with his historical and instructive work. This should not be complained of; nevertheless, whatEratosthenes says is false, that the poets aim at amusement, not instruction, since those who have treated upon the subject most profoundly, regard poesy in the light of a primitive philosophy. But we shall refuteEratosthenes more at length, when we have occasion again to speak ofHomer.
§ 1.1.11 What we have already advanced is sufficient to prove that poet the father of geography. Those who followed in his track are also well known as great men and true philosophers. The two immediately succeedingHomer, according toEratosthenes, wereAnaximander, the disciple and fellow citizen ofThales, andHecataeus theMilesian.Anaximander was the first to publish a geographical chart.Hecataeus left a work [on the same subject], which we can identify as his by means of his other writings.
§ 1.1.12 Many have testified to the amount of knowledge which this subject requires, andHipparchus, in his Strictures onEratosthenes, well observes, "that no one can become really proficient in geography, either as a private individual or as a professor, without an acquaintance with astronomy, and a knowledge of eclipses. For instance, no one could tell whetherAlexandria inEgypt were north or south ofBabylon, nor yet the intervening distance, without observing the latitudes. Again, the only means we possess of becoming acquainted with the longitudes of different places is afforded by the eclipses of the sun and moon." Such are the very words ofHipparchus.
§ 1.1.13 Every one who undertakes to give an accurate description of a place, should be particular to add its astronomical and geometrical relations, explaining carefully its extent, distance, degrees of latitude, and "climate." Even a builder before constructing a house, or an architect before laying out a city, would take these things into consideration; much more should he who examines the whole earth: for such things in a peculiar manner belong to him. In small distances a little deviation north or south does not signify, but when it is the whole circle of the earth, the north extends to the furthest confines ofScythia, orKeltica, and the south to the extremities ofEthiopia: there is a wide difference here. The case is the same should we inhabitIndia or Spain, one in the east, the other far west, and, as we are aware, the antipodes to each other.
§ 1.1.14 The [motions] of the sun and stars, and the centripetal force meet us on the very threshold of such subjects, and compel us to the study of astronomy, and the observation of such phenomena as each of us may notice; in which too, very considerable differences appear, according to the various points of observation. How could any one undertake to write accurately and with propriety on the differences of the various parts of the earth, who was ignorant of these matters? and although, if the undertaking were of a popular character, it might not be advisable to enter thoroughly into detail, still we should endeavour to include every thing which could be comprehended by the general reader.
§ 1.1.15 He who has thus elevated his mind, will he be satisfied with any thing less than the whole world? If in his anxiety accurately to portray the inhabited earth, he has dared to survey heaven, and make use thereof for purposes of instruction, would it not seem childish were he to refrain from examining the whole earth, of which the inhabited is but a part, its size, its features, and its position in the universe; whether other portions are inhabited besides those on which we dwell, and if so, their amount? What is the extent of the regions not peopled? what their peculiarities, and the cause of their remaining as they are? Thus it appears that the knowledge of geography is connected with meteorology and geometry, that it unites the things of earth to the things of heaven, as though they were nearly allied, and not separated. " As far as heaven from earth." Iliad viii. 16
§ 1.1.16 To the various subjects which it embraces let us add natural history, or the history of the animals, plants, and other different productions of the earth and sea, whether serviceable or useless, and my original statement will, I think, carry perfect conviction with it. That he who should undertake this work would be a benefactor to mankind, reason and the voice of antiquity agree. The poets feign that they were the wisest heroes who travelled and wandered most in foreign climes: and to be familiar with many countries, and the disposition of the inhabitants, is, according to them, of vast importance.Nestor prides himself on having associated with theLapithae, to whom he went, "having been invited thither from the Apian land afar." So doesMenelaus: — "Cyprus,Phoenicia,Sidon, and the shores OfEgypt, roaming without hope I reach'd; In distantEthiopia thence arrived, AndLibya, where thelambs their foreheads show With budding horns defended soon as yean'd." [Od. iv. 83.] Adding as a peculiarity of the country, "There thrice within the year the flocks produce." [Od. iv. 86.] And ofEgypt: — "Where the sustaining earth is most prolific." AndThebes, "the city with an hundred gates, Whence twenty thousand chariots rush to war." Iliad ix. 383 Such information greatly enlarges our sphere of knowledge, by informing us of the nature of the country, its botanical and zoological peculiarities. To these should be added its marine history; for we are in a certain sense amphibious, not exclusively connected with the land, but with the sea as well.Hercules, on account of his vast experience and observation, was described as "skilled in mighty works." All that we have previously stated is confirmed both by the testimony of antiquity and by reason. One consideration however appears to bear in a peculiar manner on the case in point; viz. the importance of geography in a political view. For the sea and the earth in which we dwell furnish theatres for action; limited, for limited actions; vast, for grander deeds; but that which contains them all, and is the scene of the greatest undertakings, constitutes what we term the habitable earth; and they are the greatest generals who, subduing nations and kingdoms under one sceptre, and one political administration, have acquired dominion over land and sea. It is clear then, that geography is essential to all the transactions of the statesman, informing us, as it does, of the position of the continents, seas, and oceans of the whole habitable earth. Information of especial interest to those who are concerned to know the exact truth of such particulars, and whether the places have been explored or not: for government will certainly be better administered where the size and position of the country, its own peculiarities, and those of the surrounding districts, are understood. Forasmuch as there are many sovereigns who rule in different regions, and some stretch their dominion over others' territories, and undertake the government of different nations and kingdoms, and thus enlarge the extent of their dominion, it is not possible that either themselves, nor yet writers on geography, should be equally acquainted with the whole, but to both there is a great deal more or less known. Indeed, were the whole earth under one government and one administration, it is hardly possible that we should be informed of every locality in an equal degree; for even then we should be most acquainted with the places nearest us: and after all, it is better that we should have a more perfect description of these, since, on account of their proximity, there is greater reed for it. We see there is no reason to be surprised that there should be one chorographer for theIndians, another for theEthiopians, and a third for the Greeks and Romans. What use would it be to theIndians if a geographer should thus describeBoeotia to them, in the words ofHomer: — " The dwellers on the rocks OfAulis follow'd, with the hardy clans OfHyria,Schoenus,Scolus." Iliad ii. 496. To us this is of value, while to be acquainted with the Indies and their various territorial divisions would be useless, as it could lead to no advantage, which is the only criterion of the worth of such knowledge.
§ 1.1.17 Even if we descend to the consideration of such trivial matters as hunting, the case is still the same; for he will be most successful in the chase who is acquainted with the size and nature of the wood, and one familiar with the locality will be the most competent to superintend an encampment, an ambush, or a march. But it is in great undertakings that the truth shines out in all its brilliancy, for here, while the success resulting from knowledge is grand, the consequences of ignorance are disastrous. The fleet ofAgamemnon, for instance, ravagingMysia, as if it had been theTrojan territory, was compelled to a shameful retreat. Likewise thePersians andLibyans, supposing certain straits to be impassable, were very near falling into great perils, and have left behind them memorials of their ignorance; the former a monument to Salganeus on theEuripus, nearChalcis, whom thePersians slew, for, as they thought, falsely conducting their fleet from the Gulf ofMalea to theEuripus; and the latter to the memory ofPelorus, who was executed on a like occasion. At the time of the expedition ofXerxes, the coasts of Greece were covered with wrecks, and the emigrations fromAeolia andIonia furnish numerous instances of the same calamity. On the other hand, matters have come to a prosperous termination, when judiciously directed by a knowledge of the locality. Thus it was at the pass ofThermopylae thatEphialtes is reported to have pointed out to thePersians a pathway over the mountains, and so placed the band ofLeonidas at their mercy, and opened to the Barbarians a passage intoPylae. But passing over ancient occurrences, we think that the late expeditions of the Romans against theParthians furnish an excellent example, where, as in those against the Germans andKelts, the Barbarians, taking advantage of their situation, [carried on the war] in marshes, woods, and pathless deserts, deceiving the ignorant enemy as to the position of different places, and concealing the roads, and the means of obtaining food and necessaries.
§ 1.1.18 As we have said, this science has an especial reference to the occupations and requirements of statesmen, with whom also political and ethical philosophy is mainly concerned; and here is an evidence. We distinguish the different kinds of civil government by the office of their chief men, denominating one government a monarchy, or kingdom, another an aristocracy, a third a democracy; for so many we consider are the forms of government, and we designate them by these names, because from them they derive their primary characteristic. For the laws which emanate from the sovereign, from the aristocracy, and from the people all are different. The law is in fact a type of the form of government. It is on this account that some define right to be the interest of the strongest. If, therefore, political philosophy is advantageous to the ruler, and geography in the actual government of the country, this latter seems to possess some little superiority. This superiority is most observable in real service.
§ 1.1.19 But even the theoretical portion of geography is by no means contemptible. On the one hand, it embraces the arts, mathematics, and natural science; on the other, history and fable. Not that this latter can have any distinct advantage: for instance, if any one should relate to us the wanderings ofUlysses,Menelaus, andJason, he would not seem to have added directly to our fund of practical knowledge thereby, (which is the only thing men of the world are interested in,) unless he should convey useful examples of what those wanderers were compelled to suffer, and at the same time afford matter of rational amusement to those who interest themselves in the places which gave birth to such fables. Practical men interest themselves in these pursuits, since they are at once commendable, and afford them pleasure; but yet not to any great extent. In this class, too, will be found those whose main object in life is pleasure and respectability: but these by no means constitute the majority of mankind, who naturally prefer that which holds out some direct advantage. The geographer should therefore chiefly devote himself to what is practically important. He should follow the same rule in regard to history and the mathematics, selecting always that which is most useful, most intelligible, and most authentic.
§ 1.1.20 Geometry and astronomy, as we before remarked, seem absolutely indispensable in this science. This, in fact, is evident, that without some such assistance, it would be impossible to be accurately acquainted with the configuration of the earth; its climata, dimensions, and the like information. As the size of the earth has been demonstrated by other writers, we shall here take for granted and receive as accurate what they have advanced. We shall also assume that the earth is spheroidal, that its surface is likewise spheroidal, and above all, that bodies have a tendency towards its centre, which latter point is clear to the perception of the most average understanding. However we may show summarily that the earth is spheroidal, from the consideration that all things however distant tend to its centre, and that every body is attracted towards its centre of gravity; this is more distinctly proved from observations of the sea and sky, for here the evidence of the senses, and common observation, is alone requisite. The convexity of the sea is a further proof of this to those who have sailed; for they cannot perceive lights at a distance when placed at the same level as their eyes, but if raised on high, they at once become perceptible to vision, though at the same time further removed. So, when the eye is raised, it sees what before was utterly imperceptible.Homer speaks of this when he says, "Lifted up on the vast wave he quickly beheld afar. [Od. v. 393.] Sailors, as they approach their destination, behold the shore continually raising itself to their view; and objects which had at first seemed low, begin to elevate themselves. Our gnomons, also, are, among other things, evidence of the revolution of the heavenly bodies; and common sense at once shows us, that if the depth of the earth were infinite, such a revolution could not take place. Every information respecting the climata is contained in the "Treatises on Positions."
§ 1.1.21 Now there are some facts which we take to be established, viz. those with which every politician and general should be familiar. For on no account should they be so uninformed as to the heavens and the position of the earth, that when they are in strange countries, where some of the heavenly phenomena wear a different aspect to what they have been accustomed, they should be in a consternation, and exclaim, "Neither west Know we, nor east, where rises or where sets The all-enlightening sun." [Od. x. 190.] Still, we do not expect that they should be such thorough masters of the subject as to know what stars rise and set together for the different quarters of the earth; those which have the same meridian line, the elevation of the poles, the signs which are in the zenith, with all the various phenomena which differ as well in appearance as reality with the variations of the horizon and arctic circle. With some of these matters, unless as philosophical pursuits, they should not burden themselves at all; others they must take for granted without searching into their causes. This must be left to the care of the philosopher; the statesman can have no leisure, or very little, for such pursuits. Those who, through carelessness and ignorance, are not familiar with the globe and the circles traced upon it, some parallel to each other, some at right angles to the former, others, again, in an oblique direction; nor yet with the position of the tropics, equator, and zodiac, (that circle through which the sun travels in his course, and by which we reckon the changes of season and the winds,) such persons we caution against the perusal of our work. For if a man is neither properly acquainted with these things, nor with the variations of the horizon and arctic circle, and such similar elements of mathematics, how can he comprehend the matters treated of here? So for one who does not know a right line from a curve, nor yet a circle, nor a plane or spherical surface, nor the seven stars in the firmament composing the Great Bear, and such like, our work is entirely useless, at least for the present. Unless he first acquires such information, he is utterly incompetent to the study of geography. So those who have written the works entitled "On Ports," and "Voyages Round the World," have performed their task imperfectly, since they have omitted to supply the requisite information from mathematics and astronomy.
§ 1.1.22 The present undertaking is composed in a lucid style, suitable alike to the statesman and the general reader, after the fashion of my History. By a statesman we do not intend an illiterate person, but one who has gone through the course of a liberal and philosophical education. For a man who has bestowed no attention on virtue or intelligence, nor what constitutes them, must be incompetent either to blame or praise, still less to decide what actions are worthy to be placed on record.
§ 1.1.23 Having already compiled our Historical Memoirs, which, as we conceive, are a valuable addition both to political and moral philosophy, we have now determined to follow it up with the present work, which has been prepared on the same system as the former, and for the same class of readers, but more particularly for those who are in high stations of life. And as our former production contains only the most striking events in the lives of distinguished men, omitting trifling and unimportant incidents; so here it will be proper to dismiss small and doubtful particulars, and merely call attention to great and remarkable transactions, such in fact as are useful, memorable, and entertaining. In the colossal works of the sculptor we do not descend into a minute examination of particulars, but look principally for perfection in the general ensemble. This is the only method of criticism applicable to the present work. Its proportions, so to speak, are colossal; it deals in the generalities and main outlines of things, except now and then, when some minor detail can be selected, calculated to be serviceable to the seeker after knowledge, or the man of business. We now think we have demonstrated that our present undertaking is one that requires great care, and is well worthy of a philosopher.
§ 1.2.1 No one can [justly] blame us for having undertaken to write on a subject already often treated of, unless it appears that we have done nothing more than copy the works of former writers. In our opinion, though they may have perfectly treated some subjects, in others they have still left much to be completed; and we shall be justified in our performance, if we can add to their information even in a trifling degree. At the present moment the conquests of the Romans andParthians have added much to our knowledge, which (as was well observed byEratosthenes) had been considerably increased by the expedition ofAlexander. This prince laid open to our view the greater part ofAsia, and the whole north of Europe as far as theDanube. And the Romans [have discovered to us] the entire west of Europe as far as the riverElbe, which dividesGermania, and the country beyond theIster to the riverTyras [Dniester]. The country beyond this to theMaeotis, and the coasts extending alongColchis, was brought to light byMithridates surnamed Eupator, and his generals. To theParthians we are indebted for a better acquaintance withHyrcania,Bactriana, and the land of theScythians lying beyond, of which before we knew but little. Thus we can add much information not supplied by former writers, but this will best be seen when we come to treat on the writers who have preceded us; and this method we shall pursue, not so much in regard to the primitive geographers, as toEratosthenes and those subsequent to him. As these writers far surpassed the generality in the amount of their knowledge, so naturally it is more difficult to detect their errors when such occur. If I seem to contradict those most whom I take chiefly for my guides, I must claim indulgence on the plea, that it was never intended to criticise the whole body of geographers, the larger number of whom are not worthy of consideration, but to give an opinion of those only who are generally found correct. Still, while many are beneath discussion, such men asEratosthenes,Posidonius,Hipparchus,Polybius, and others of their stamp, deserve our highest consideration.
§ 1.2.2 Let us first examineEratosthenes, reviewing at the same time whatHipparchus has advanced against him.Eratosthenes is much too creditable an historian for us to believe whatPolemon endeavours to charge against him, that he had not even seenAthens. At the same time he does not merit that unbounded confidence which some seem to repose in him, although, as he himself tells us, he passed much of his time with first-rate [characters]. Never, says he, at one period, and in one city, were there so many philosophers flourishing together as in my time. In their number wasAriston andArcesilaus. This, however, it seems is not sufficient, but you must also be able to choose who are the real guides whom it is your interest to follow. He considersArcesilaus andAriston to be the coryphaei of the philosophers who flourished in his time, and is ceaseless in his eulogies ofApelles andBion, the latter of whom, says he, was the first to deck himself in the flowers of philosophy, but concerning whom one is often likewise tempted to exclaim, "How great isBion in spite of his rags!" It is in such instances as the following that the mediocrity of his genius shows itself. Although atAthens he became a disciple ofZeno ofCitium, he makes no mention of his followers; while those who opposed that philosopher, and of whose sect not a trace remains, he thinks fit to set down amongst the [great characters] who flourished in his time. His real character appears in his Treatise on Moral Philosophy, his Meditations, and some similar productions. He seems to have held a middle course between the man who devotes himself to philosophy, and the man who cannot make up his mind to dedicate himself to it: and to have studied the science merely as a relief from his other pursuits, or as a pleasing and instructive recreation. In his other writings he is just the same; but let these things pass. We will now proceed as well as we can to the task of rectifying his geography. First, then, let us return to the point which we lately deferred.
§ 1.2.3 Eratosthenes says that the poet directs his whole attention to the amusement of the mind, and not at all to its instruction. In opposition to his idea, the ancients define poesy as a primitive philosophy, guiding our life from infancy, and pleasantly regulating our morals, our tastes, and our actions. The [Stoics] of our day affirm that the only wise man is the poet. On this account the earliest lessons which the citizens of Greece convey to their children are from the poets; certainly not alone for the purpose of amusing their minds, but for their instruction. Nay, even the professors of music, who give lessons on the harp, lyre, and pipe, lay claim to our consideration on the same account, since they say that [the accomplishments which they teach] are calculated to form and improve the character. It is not only among thePythagoreans that one hears this claim supported, forAristoxenus is of that opinion, andHomer too regarded the bards as amongst the wisest of mankind. Of this number was the guardian ofClytemnestra, "to whom the son ofAtreus, when he set out forTroy, gave earnest charge to preserve his wife," whomAegisthus was unable to seduce, until "leading the bard to a desert island, he left him," and then "The queen he led, not willing less than he, To his own mansion." Il. iii. 272. But apart from all such considerations,Eratosthenes contradicts himself; for a little previously to the sentence which we have quoted, at the commencement of his Essay on Geography, he says, that "all the ancient poets took delight in showing their knowledge of such matters.Homer inserted into his poetry all that he knew about theEthiopians,Egypt, andLibya. Of all that related to Greece and the neighbouring places he entered even too minutely into the details, describingThisbe as "abounding in doves,"Haliartus, "grassy,"Anthedon, the "far distant,"Lilaea, "situated on the sources of theCephissus," and none of his epithets are without their meaning." But in pursuing this method, what object has he in view, to amuse [merely], or to instruct? The latter, doubtless. Well, perhaps he has told the truth in these instances, but in what was beyond his observation both he and the other writers have indulged in all the marvels of fable. If such be the case the statement should have been, that the poets relate some things for mere amusement, others for instruction; but he affirms that they do it altogether for amusement, without any view to information; and by way of climax, inquires, What can it add toHomer's worth to be familiar with many lands, and skilled in strategy, agriculture, rhetoric, and similar information, which some persons seem desirous to make him possessed of. To seek to invest him with all this knowledge is most likely the effect of too great a zeal for his honour.Hipparchus observes, that to assert he was acquainted with every art and science, is like saying that anAttic eiresione bears pears and apples. As far as this goes,Eratosthenes, you are right enough; not so, however, when you not only deny thatHomer was possessed of these vast acquirements, but represent poetry in general as a tissue of old wives' fables, where, to use your own expression, every thing thought likely to amuse is cooked up. I ask, is it of no value to the auditors of the poets to be made acquainted with [the history of] different countries, with strategy, agriculture, and rhetoric, and suchlike things, which the lecture generally contains.
§ 1.2.4 One thing is certain, that the poet has bestowed all these gifts uponUlysses, whom beyond any of his other [heroes] he loves to adorn with every virtue. He says of him, that he "Discover'd various cities, and the mind And manners learn'd of men in lands remote." [Od. i 3.] That he was "Of a piercing wit and deeply wise." Iliad iii. 202. He is continually described as "the destroyer of cities," and as having vanquishedTroy, by his counsels, his advice, and his deceptive art.Diomedes says of him, "Let him attend me, and through fire itself We shall return; for none is wise as he." Ib. x. 246. He prides himself on his skill in husbandry, for at the harvest [he says], "I with my well-bent sickle in my hand, Thou arm'd with one as keen." [Od. xviii. 367.] And also in tillage, "Then shouldst thou see How straight my furrow should be cut and true." Ib. xviii. 374. AndHomer was not singular in his opinion regarding these matters, for all educated people appeal to him in favour of the idea that such practical knowledge is one of the chief means of acquiring understanding.
§ 1.2.5 That eloquence is regarded as the wisdom of speech,Ulysses manifests throughout the whole poem, both in the Trial, the Petitions, and the Embassy. Of him it is said byAntenor, "But when he spake, forth from his breast did flow A torrent swift as winter's feather'd snow." Iliad iii. 221. Who can suppose that a poet capable of effectively introducing into his scenes rhetoricians, generals, and various other characters, each displaying some peculiar excellence, was nothing more than a droll or juggler, capable only of cheating or flattering his hearer, and not of instructing him. Are we not all agreed that the chief merit of a poet consists in his accurate representation of the affairs of life? Can this be done by a mere driveller, unacquainted with the world? The excellence of a poet is not to be measured by the same standard as that of a mechanic or a blacksmith, where honour and virtue have nothing to do with our estimate. But the poet and the individual are connected, and he only can become a good poet, who is in the first instance a worthy man.
§ 1.2.6 To deny that our poet possesses theGraces of oratory is using us hardly indeed. What is so befitting an orator, what so poetical as eloquence, and who so sweetly eloquent asHomer? But, by heaven! you'll say, there are other styles of eloquence than those peculiar to poetry. Of course [I admit this]; in poetry itself there is the tragic and the comic style; in prose, the historic and the forensic. But is not language a generality, of which poetry and prose are forms? Yes, language is; but are not the rhetorical, the eloquent, and the florid styles also? I answer, that flowery prose is nothing but an imitation of poetry. Ornate poetry was the first to make its appearance, and was well received. Afterwards it was closely imitated by writers in the time ofCadmus,Pherecydes, andHecataeus. The metre was the only thing dispensed with, every other poetic grace being carefully preserved. As time advanced, one after another of its beauties was discarded, till at last it came down from its glory into our common prose. In the same way we may say that comedy took its rise from tragedy, but descended from its lofty grandeur into what we now call the common parlance of daily life. And when [we find] the ancient writers making use of the expression "to sing," to designate eloquence of style, this in itself is an evidence that poetry is the source and origin of all ornamented and rhetorical language. Poetry in ancient days was on every occasion accompanied by melody. The song or ode was but a modulated speech, from whence the words rhapsody, tragedy, comedy, are derived; and since originally eloquence was the term made use of for the poetical effusions which were always of the nature of a song, it soon happened [that in speaking of poetry] some said, to sing, others, to be eloquent; and as the one term was early misapplied to prose compositions, the other also was soon applied in the same way. Lastly, the very term prose, which is applied to language not clothed in metre, seems to indicate, as it were, its descent from an elevation or chariot to the ground.
§ 1.2.7 Homer accurately describes many distant countries, and not only Greece and the neighbouring places, asEratosthenes asserts. His romance, too, is in better style than that of his successors. He does not make up wondrous tales on every occasion, but to instruct us the better often, and especially in theOdyssey, adds to the circumstances which have come under his actual observation, allegories, wise harangues, and enticing narrations. Concerning which,Eratosthenes is much mistaken when he says that bothHomer and his commentators are a pack of fools. But this subject demands a little more of our attention.
§ 1.2.8 To begin. The poets were by no means the first to avail themselves of myths. States and lawgivers had taken advantage of them long before, having observed the constitutional bias of mankind. Man is eager after knowledge, and the love of legend is but the prelude thereto. This is why children begin to listen [to fables], and are acquainted with them before any other kind of knowledge; the cause of this is that the myth introduces them to a new train of ideas, relating not to every-day occurrences, but something in addition to these. A charm hangs round whatever is new and hitherto unknown, inspiring us with a desire to become acquainted with it, but when the wonderful and the marvellous are likewise present, our delight is increased until at last it becomes a philtre of study. To children we are obliged to hold out such enticements, in order that in riper years, when the mind is powerful, and no longer needs such stimulants, it may be prepared to enter on the study of actual realities. Every illiterate and uninstructed man is yet a child, and takes delight in fable. With the partially informed it is much the same; reason is not all-powerful within him, and he still possesses the tastes of a child. But the marvellous, which is capable of exciting fear as well as pleasure, influences not childhood only, but age as well. As we relate to children pleasing tales to incite them [to any course] of action, and frightful ones to deter them, such as those ofLamia,Gorgo,Ephialtes, andMormolyca. So numbers of our citizens are incited to deeds of virtue by the beauties of fable, when they hear the poets in a strain of enthusiasm recording noble actions, such as the labours ofHercules orTheseus, and the honours bestowed on them by the gods, or even when they see paintings, sculptures, or figures bearing their romantic evidence to such events. In the same way they are restrained from vicious courses, when they think they have received from the gods by oracles or some other invisible intimations, threats, menaces, or chastisements, or even if they only believe they have befallen others. The great mass of women and common people, cannot be induced by mere force of reason to devote themselves to piety, virtue, and honesty; superstition must therefore be employed, and even this is insufficient without the aid of the marvellous and the terrible. For what are the thunderbolts, the aegis, the trident, the torches, the dragons, the barbed thyrses, the arms of the gods, and all the paraphernalia of antique theology, but fables employed by the founders of states, as bugbears to frighten timorous minds. Such was mythology; and when our ancestors found it capable of subserving the purposes of social and political life, and even contributing to the knowledge of truth, they continued the education of childhood to maturer years, and maintained that poetry was sufficient to form the understanding of every age. In course of time history and our present philosophy were introduced; these, however, suffice but for the chosen few, and to the present day poetry is the main agent which instructs our people and crowds our theatres.Homer here stands pre-eminent, but in truth all the early historians and natural philosophers were mythologists as well.
§ 1.2.9 Thus it is that our poet, though he sometimes employs fiction for the purposes of instruction, always gives the preference to truth; he makes use of what is false, merely tolerating it in order the more easily to lead and govern the multitude. As a man "Binds with a golden verge Bright silver," soHomer, heightening by fiction actual occurrences, adorns and embellishes his subject; but his end is always the same as that of the historian, who relates nothing but facts. In this manner he undertook the narration of theTrojan War, gilding it with the beauties of fancy and the wanderings ofUlysses; but we shall never findHomer inventing an empty fable apart from the inculcation of truth. It is ever the case that a person lies most successfully, when he intermingles [into the falsehood] a sprinkling of truth. Such is the remark ofPolybius in treating of the wanderings ofUlysses; such is also the meaning of the verse, "He fabricated many falsehoods, relating them like truths: "[Od. xix. 203.] not all, but many falsehoods, otherwise it would not have looked like the truth.Homer's narrative is founded on history. He tells us that kingAeolus governed theLipari Islands, that around MountAetna andLeontini dwelt theCyclopae, and certainLaestrygonians inhospitable to strangers. That at that time the districts surrounding thestrait were unapproachable; andScylla andCharybdis were infested by banditti. In like manner in the writings ofHomer we are informed of other freebooters, who dwelt in divers regions. Being aware that theCimmerians dwelt on theCimmerian Bosphorus, a dark northern country, he felicitously locates them in a gloomy region close byHades, a fit theatre for the scene in the wanderings ofUlysses. That he was acquainted with these people we may satisfy ourselves from the chroniclers, who report an incursion made by theCimmerians' either during his life-time or just before.
§ 1.2.10 Being acquainted withColchis, and the voyage ofJason toAea, and also with the historical and fabulous relations concerningCirce andMedea, their enchantments and their various other points of resemblance, he feigns there was a relationship between them, notwithstanding the vast distance by which they were separated, the one dwelling in an inland creek of theEuxine, and the other inItaly, and both of them beyond the ocean. It is possible thatJason himself wandered as far asItaly, for traces of the Argonautic expedition are pointed out near theCeraunian mountains, by theAdriatic, at thePosidonian Gulf, and the isles adjacent toTyrrhenia. TheCyaneae, called by some theSymplegades, or Jostling Rocks, which render the passage through the Strait ofConstantinople so difficult, also afforded matter to our poet. The actual existence of a place namedAea, stamped credibility upon hisAeaea; so did theSymplegades upon thePlanctae, (the Jostling Rocks upon the Wandering Rocks) and the passage ofJason through the midst of them; in the same wayScylla andCharybdis accredited the passage [ofUlysses] past those rocks. In his time people absolutely regarded theEuxine as a kind of second ocean, and placed those who had crossed it in the same list with navigators who had passed thePillars. It was looked upon as the largest of our seas, and was therefore par excellence styled the Sea, in the same way asHomer [is called] the Poet. In order therefore to be well received, it is probable he transferred the scenes from theEuxine to the ocean, so as not to stagger the general belief. And in my opinion thoseSolymi who possess the highest ridges ofTaurus, lying betweenLycia andPisidia, and those who in their southern heights stand out most conspicuously to the dwellers on this sideTaurus, and the inhabitants of theEuxine by a figure of speech, he describes as being beyond the ocean. For narrating the voyage ofUlysses in his ship, he says, "ButNeptune, traversing in his return FromEthiopia's sons, the mountain heights Of theSolymi, descried him from afar." [Od. v. 282.] It is probable he took his account of the one-eyedCyclopae fromScythian history, for theArimaspi, whomAristaeus ofProconnesus describes in his Tales of theArimaspi, are said to be distinguished by this peculiarity.
§ 1.2.11 Having premised thus much, we must now take into consideration the reasons of those who assert thatHomer makesUlysses wander toSicily orItaly, and also of those who denied this. The truth is, he may be equally interpreted on this subject either way, according as we take a correct or incorrect view of the case. Correct, if we understand that he was convinced of the reality ofUlysses' wanderings there, and taking this truth as a foundation, raised thereon a poetical superstructure. And so far this description of him is right; for not aboutItaly only, but to the farthest extremities of Spain, traces of his wanderings and those of similar adventurers may still be found. Incorrect, if the scene-painting is received as fact, his Ocean, andHades, theoxen of the sun, his hospitable reception by the goddesses, the metamorphoses, the gigantic size of theCyclopae andLaestrygonians, the monstrous appearance ofScylla, the distance of the voyage, and other similar particulars, all alike manifestly fabulous. It is as idle to waste words with a person who thus openly maligns our poet, as it would be with one who should assert as true all the particulars ofUlysses' return toIthaca, the slaughter of the suitors, and the pitched battle between him and theIthacans in the field. But nothing can be said against the man who understands the words of the poet in a rational way.
§ 1.2.12 Eratosthenes, though on no sufficient grounds for so doing, rejects both these opinions, endeavouring in his attack on the latter, to refute by lengthened arguments what is manifestly absurd and unworthy of consideration, and in regard to the former, maintaining a poet to be a mere gossip, to whose worth an acquaintance with science or geography could not add in the least degree: since the scenes of certain ofHomer's fables are cast in actual localities, asIlium,Pelion, andIda; others in purely imaginary regions, such as those of theGorgons andGeryon. "Of this latter class," he says, "are the places mentioned in the wanderings ofUlysses, and those who pretend that they are not mere fabrications of the poet, but have an actual existence, are proved to be mistaken by the differences of opinion existing among themselves: for some of them assert that theSirenes ofHomer are situated close toPelorus, and others that they are more than two thousand stadia distant, near theSirenussae, a three-peaked rock which separates the Gulfs of Cumaea andPosidonium." Now, in the first place, this rock is not three-peaked, nor does it form a crest at the summit at all, but a long and narrow angle reaching from the territory ofSurrentum to the Strait ofCapria, having on one side of the mountain the sanctuary of theSirens, and on the other side, next the Gulf ofPosidonium, three little rocky and uninhabited islands, named theSirenes; upon the strait, is situated theAthenaion, from which the rocky angle itself takes its name.
§ 1.2.13 Further, if those who describe the geography of certain places do not agree in every particular, are we justified in at once rejecting their whole narration? Frequently this is a reason why it should receive the greater credit. For example, in the investigation whether the scene ofUlysses' wanderings wereSicily orItaly, and the proper position of theSirenes, they differ in so far that one places them atPelorus, and the other atSirenussae, but neither of them dissents from the idea that it was some where nearSicily orItaly. They add thereby strength to this view, inasmuch as though they are not agreed as to the exact locality, neither of them makes any question but that it was some where contiguous toItaly orSicily. If a third party should add, that the monument ofParthenope, who was one of theSirens, is shown atNaples, this only confirms us the more in our belief, for though a third place is introduced to our notice, still asNaples is situated in the gulf called byEratosthenes theCumaean, and which is formed by theSirenussae, we are more confident still that the position of theSirenes was some where close by. That the poet did not search for accuracy in every minor detail we admit, but neither ought we to expect this of him; at the same time we are not to believe that he composed his poem without inquiring into the history of the Wandering, nor where and how it occurred.
§ 1.2.14 Eratosthenes "thinks it probable thatHesiod, having heard of the wanderings ofUlysses, and of their having taken place near toSicily andItaly, embraced this view of the case, and not only describes the places spoken of byHomer, but alsoAetna, the Isle ofOrtygia, near toSyracuse, andTyrrhenia. As forHomer, he was altogether unacquainted with these places, and further, had no wish to lay the scene of the wanderings in any well-known locality." What! are thenAetna andTyrrhenia such well-known places, andScyllaion,Charybdis,Circaion, and theSirenussae, so obscure? Or isHesiod so correct as never to write nonsense, but always follow in the wake of received opinions, whileHomer blurts out whatever comes uppermost? Without taking into consideration our remarks on the character and aptitude ofHomer's myths, a large array of writers who bear evidence to his statements, and the additional testimony of local tradition, are sufficient proof that his are not the inventions of poets or contemporary scribblers, but the record of real actors and real scenes.
§ 1.2.15 The conjecture ofPolybius in regard to the particulars of the wandering ofUlysses is excellent. He says thatAeolus instructed sailors how to navigate thestrait, a difficult matter on account of the currents occasioned by the ebb and flow. and was therefore called the dispenser of the winds, and reputed their king. In like mannerDanaus for pointing out the springs of water that were inArgos, andAtreus for showing the retrograde movement of the sun in the heavens, from being mere soothsayers and diviners, were raised to the dignity of kings. And the priests of theEgyptians, theChaldeans, andMagi, distinguished for their wisdom above those around them, obtained from our predecessors honour and authority; and so it is that in each of the gods, we worship the discoverer of some useful art. Having thus introduced his subject, he does not allow us to consider the account ofAeolus, nor yet the rest of theOdyssey, as altogether mythical. There is a spice of the fabulous here, as well as in theTrojan War, but as respectsSicily, the poet accords entirely with the other historians who have written on the local traditions ofSicily andItaly. He altogether denies the justness ofEratosthenes' dictum, "that we may hope to discover the whereabout ofUlysses' wanderings, when we can find the cobbler who sewed up the winds in the leathern sack." "And [addsPolybius] his description of the hunt of the galeotes atScylla, "'Plunged to her middle in the horrid den She lurks, protruding from the black abyss Her heads, with which the ravening monster dives In quest ofdolphins, Dogfish, or of prey More bulky," [Od. xii. 95.] accords well with what takes place aroundScyllaion: for thetunny-fish, carried in shoals byItaly, and not being able to reachSicily, fall into [theStrait], where they become the prey of larger fish, such asdolphins, Dogfish, and other cetacea, and it is by this means that the galeotes (which are also called sword-fish) anddogs fatten themselves. For the same thing occurs here, and at the rising of theNile and other rivers, as takes place when a forest is on fire. Vast crowds of animals, in flying from the fire or the water, become the prey of beasts more powerful than themselves."
§ 1.2.16 He then goes on to describe the manner in which they catch the sword-fish atScyllaion. One look-out directs the whole body of fishers, who are in a vast number of small boats, each furnished with two oars, and two men to each boat. One man rows, the other stands on the prow, spear in hand, while the look-out has to signal the appearance of a sword-fish. (This fish, when swimming, has about a third of its body above water.) As it passes the boat, the fisher darts the spear from his hand, and when this is withdrawn, it leaves the sharp point with which it is furnished sticking in the flesh of the fish: this point is barbed, and loosely fixed to the spear for the purpose; it has a long end fastened to it; this they pay out to the wounded fish, till it is exhausted with its struggling and endeavours at escape. Afterwards they trail it to the shore, or, unless it is too large and full-grown, haul it into the boat. If the spear should fall into the sea, it is not lost, for it is jointed of oak and pine, so that when the oak sinks on account of its weight, it causes the other end to rise, and thus is easily recovered. It sometimes happens that the rower is wounded, even through the boat, and such is the size of the sword with which the galeote is armed, such the strength of the fish, and the method of the capture, that [in danger] it is not surpassed by the chase of the wildboar. From these facts (he says) we may conclude thatUlysses' wanderings were close toSicily, sinceHomer describesScylla as engaging in a pursuit exactly similar to that which is carried on atScyllaion. As toCharybdis, he describes just what takes place at theStrait of Messina: "Each day she thrice disgorges," [Od. xii. 105.] instead of twice, being only a mistake, either of the scribe or the historian.
§ 1.2.17 The customs of the inhabitants ofMeninx closely correspond to the description of theLotophagi. If any thing does not correspond, it should be attributed to change, or to misconception, or to poetical licence, which is made up of history, rhetoric, and fiction. Truth is the aim of the historical portion, as for instance in theCatalogue of Ships, where the poet informs us of the peculiarities of each place, that one is rocky, another the furthest city, that this abounds in doves. and that is maritime. A lively interest is the end of the rhetorical, as when he points to us the combat; and of the fiction, pleasure and astonishment. A mere fabrication would neither be persuasive nor Homeric; and we know that his poem is generally considered a scientific treatise, notwithstanding whatEratosthenes may say, when he bids us not to judge poems by the standard of intellect, nor yet look to them for history. It is most probable that the line "Nine days by cruel storms thence was I borne Athwart the fishy deep," [Od. ix. 82.] should be understood of merely a short distance, (for cruel storms do not blow in a right course,) and not of being carried beyond the ocean, as if impelled by favourable winds. "And," saysPolybius, "allowing the distance fromMalea to thePillars to be 22,500 stadia, and supposing the rate of passage was the same throughout the nine days, the voyage must have been accomplished at the speed of 2500 stadia per diem: now who has ever recorded that the passage fromLycia orRhodes toAlexandria, a distance of 4000 stadia, has been made in two days? To those who demand how it was thatUlysses, though he journeyed thrice toSicily, never once navigated theStrait, we reply that, long after his time, voyagers always sedulously avoided that route."
§ 1.2.18 Such are the sentiments ofPolybius; and in many respects they are correct enough; but when he discusses the voyage beyond the ocean, and enters on minute calculations of the proportion borne by the distance to the number of days, he is greatly mistaken. He alleges perpetually the words of the poet, "Nine days by cruel storms thence was I borne; " but at the same time he takes no notice of this expression, which is his as well, "And now borne sea-ward from the river stream Of theOceanus;" and this, "In the island ofOgygia, the centre of the sea," and that the daughter ofAtlas dwells there. And the following concerning thePhaeacians, "Remote amid the billowy deep, we hold Our dwelling, utmost of all human kind, And free from mixture with a foreign race." These passages clearly refer to theAtlantic Ocean, but though so plainly expressed,Polybius slily manages to overlook them. Here he is altogether wrong, though quite correct about the wandering ofUlysses having taken place roundSicily andItaly, a fact whichHomer establishes himself. Otherwise, what poet or writer could have persuaded theNeapolitans to assert that they possessed the tomb ofParthenope theSiren, or the inhabitants ofCumae,Dicaearchia, andVesuvius [to bear their testimony] toPyriphlegethon, the Marsh ofAcherusia, to the oracle of the dead which was nearAornus, and toBaius andMisenus, the companions ofUlysses. The same is the case with theSirenussae, and theStrait of Messina, andScylla, andCharybdis, andAeolus, all which things should neither be examined into too rigorously, nor yet [despised] as groundless and without foundation, alike remote from truth and historic value.
§ 1.2.19 Eratosthenes seems to have had something like this view of the case himself, when he says, "Any one would believe that the poet intended the western regions as the scene ofUlysses' wanderings, but that he has departed from fact, sometimes through want of perfect information, at other times because he wished to give to scenes a more terrific and marvellous appearance than they actually possessed." So far this is true, but his idea of the object which the poet had in view while composing, is false; real advantage, not trifling, being his aim. We may justly reprehend his assertion on this point, as also where he says, thatHomer places the scene of his marvels in distant lands that he may lie the more easily. Remote localities have not furnished him with near so many wonderful narrations as Greece, and the countries thereto adjacent; witness the labours ofHercules, andTheseus, the fables concerningCrete,Sicily, and the other islands; besides those connected withCithaerum,Helicon,Parnassus,Pelion, and the whole ofAttica and thePeloponnesus. Let us not therefore tax the poets with ignorance on account of the myths which they employ, and since, so far from myth being the staple, they for the most part avail themselves of actual occurrences, (andHomer does this in a remarkable degree,) the inquirer who will seek how far these ancient writers have wandered into fiction, ought not to scrutinize to what extent the fiction was carried, but rather what is the truth concerning those places and persons to which the fictions have been applied; for instance, whether the wanderings ofUlysses did actually occur, and where.
§ 1.2.20 On the whole, however, it is not proper to place the works ofHomer in the common catalogue of other poets, without challenging for him a superiority both in respect of his other [excellences] and also for the geography on which our attention is now engaged. If any one were to do no more than merely read through theTriptolemus ofSophocles, or the prologue to the Bacchae ofEuripides, and then compare them with the care taken byHomer in his geographical descriptions, he would at once perceive both the difference and superiority of the latter, for wherever there is necessity for arrangement in the localities he has immortalized, he is careful to preserve it as well in regard to Greece, as to foreign countries. " They On theOlympian summit thought to fix HugeOssa, and onOssa's towering headPelion with all his forests. " " AndJuno starting from theOlympian height O'erflewPieria and the lovely plains Of broadEmathia; soaring thence she swept The snow-clad summit of the Thracian hills Steed-famed, nor printed, as she pass'd, the soil, FromAthos the foaming billows borne. " In theCatalogue he does not describe his cities in regular order, because here there was no necessity, but both the people and foreign countries he arranges correctly. "Having wandered toCyprus, andPhoenice, and theEgyptians, I came to theEthiopians, andSidonians, andErembi, andLibya."Hipparchus has drawn attention to this. But the two tragedians where there was great necessity for proper arrangement, one where he introducesBacchus visiting the nations, the otherTriptolemus sowing the earth, have brought in juxta-position places far remote, and separated those which were near. "And having left the wealthy lands of theLydians andPhrygians, and the sunny plains of thePersians and theBactrian walls, and having come over the stormy land of theMedes, and the HappyArabia." And theTriptolemus is just as inaccurate. Further, in respect to the winds and climates,Homer shows the wide extent of his geographical knowledge, for in his topographical descriptions he not unfrequently informs us of both these matters. Thus, "My abode Is sun-burntIthaca. Flat on the deep she lies, farthest removed Toward the west, while situate apart, Her sister islands face the rising day." [Od. ix. 25.] And, "It has a two-fold entrance, One towards the north, the other south." [Od. xiii.] 109, 111. And again, "Which I alike despise, speed they their course With right-hand flight towards the ruddy east, Or leftward down into the shades of eve." Iliad xii. 239. Ignorance of such matters he reckons no less than confusion. " Alas! my friends, for neither west Know we, nor east; where rises or where sets The all-enlightening sun." [Od. x. 190.] Where the poet has said properly enough, "As when two adverse winds, blowing fromThrace,Boreas andZephyrus," Iliad ix.5.Eratosthenes ill-naturedly misrepresents him as saying in an absolute sense, that the west wind blows fromThrace; whereas he is not speaking in an absolute sense at all, but merely of the meeting of contrary winds near the bay ofMelas, on the Thracian sea, itself a part of theAegean. For whereThrace forms a kind of promontory, where it borders onMacedonia, it takes a turn to the south-west, and projects into the ocean, and from this point it seems to the inhabitants ofThasos,Lemnos,Imbros,Samothrace, and the surrounding sea, that the west winds blow. So in regard toAttica, they seem to come from therocks of Sciros, and this is the reason why all the westerly winds, the north-west more particularly, are called the Scirones. Of thisEratosthenes was not aware, though he suspected as much, for it was he who described this bending of the land [towards the south-west] which we have mentioned. But he interprets our poet in an absolute sense, and then taxes him with ignorance, because, says he, "Zephyr blows from the west, and off Spain, andThrace does not extend so far." Does he then think thatHomer was not aware thatZephyr came from the west, notwithstanding the careful manner in which he distinguishes its position when he writes as follows: "The east, the south, the heavy-blowingZephyr, And the cold north-wind clear." (Odyssey v. 295). Or was he ignorant thatThrace did not extend beyond thePaeonian andThessalian mountains. To be sure he was well acquainted with the position of the countries adjoiningThrace in that direction, and does he not mention by name both the maritime and inland districts, and tells us of theMagnetae, theMalians, and other Grecian [territories], all in order, as far asThesprotis; also of theDolopes bordering onPaeonia, and theSellae who inhabit the territory aroundDodona as far as the [river]Achelous, but he never mentionsThrace, as being beyond these. He has evidently a predilection for the sea which is nearest to him, and with which he is most familiar, as where he says, "Commotion shook The whole assembly, such as heaves the flood Of theIcarian deep." Iliad ii. 144.
§ 1.2.21 Some writers tell us there are but two principal winds, the north and south, and that the other winds are only a slight difference in the direction of these two. That is, (supposing only two winds, the north and south,) the south wind from the commencement of the summer quarter blows in a south-easterly direction; and from the commencement of the winter quarter from the east. The north wind from the decline of the summer, blows in a westerly direction, and from the decline of the winter, in a north-westerly direction. In support of this opinion of the two winds they adduceThrasyalces and our poet himself, forasmuch as he mentions the north-west with the south, "From the north-west south," Iliad xi. 306, xxi. 334. and the west with the north, "As when two adverse winds, blowing fromThrace,Boreas andZephyrus." Iliad ix. 5. ButPosidonius remarks that none of those who are really acquainted with these subjects, such asAristotle,Timosthenes, andBion the astronomer, entertain so mistaken an opinion in regard to the winds. They say that the north-east (Caecias) blows from the commencement of summer, and that the southwest wind (Libs), which is exactly opposite to this, blows from the decline of winter. And again, the south-east wind (Eurus), which is opposite to the north-west wind (Argestes), from the commencement of winter. The east and west winds being intermediate. When our poet makes use of the expression "stormy zephyr," he means the wind which is now called by us the north-west; and by the "clear-blowing zephyr" our west wind; ourLeuconotus is hisArgestes-notus, or clearing south wind, for this wind brings but few clouds, all the other southern winds bringing clouds and rain, "As when whirlwinds of the west A storm encounter from the clearing south." Iliad xi. 305. Here he alludes to the stormy zephyr, which very frequently scatters the feathery clouds brought up by theLeuconotus, or, as it is called by way of epithet, the clearing south. The statements made byEratosthenes in the first book of his Geography, require some such correction as this.
§ 1.2.22 Persisting in his false views in relation toHomer, he goes on to say, "He was ignorant that theNile separated into many mouths, nay, he was not even acquainted with the name of the river, thoughHesiod knew it well, for he even mentions it." In respect of the name, it is probable that it had not then been given to the river, and as to the mouths, if they were obscure and little known, will not every one excuse him for not being aware whether there were several or merely one? At that time, the river, its rising, and its mouths were considered, as they are at the present day, amongst the most remarkable, the most wonderful, and most worthy of recording of all the peculiarities ofEgypt: who can suppose that those who told our poet of the country and river ofEgypt, ofEgyptianThebes, and ofPharos, were unaware of the many embouchures of theNile; or that being aware, they would not have described them, were it not that they were too generally known? "But is it not inconceivable thatHomer should describeEthiopia, and theSidonians, theErembi, and the Exterior Sea, — should tell us thatEthiopia was divided into two parts, and yet nothing about those things which were nearer and better known?" Certainly not, his not describing these things is no proof that he was not acquainted with them. He does not tell us of his own country, nor yet many other things. The most probable reason is, they were so generally known that they did not appear to him worth recording.
§ 1.2.23 Again, they are entirely wrong when they allege as a mark ofHomer's ignorance, that he describes the island ofPharos as entirely surrounded by the sea. On the contrary, it might be taken advantage of as a proof that our poet was not unacquainted with a single one of the points concerningEgypt which we have just been speaking of: and thus we demonstrate it: — Every one is prone to romance a little in narrating his travels, andMenelaus was no exception to the rule. He had been toEthiopia, and there heard much discussion concerning the sources of theNile, and the alluvium which it deposited, both along its course, and also at its mouths, and the large additions which it had thereby made to the main-land, so as fully to justify the remark ofHerodotus that the whole ofEgypt was a gift from the river; or if not the whole, at all events that part of it below the Delta, called LowerEgypt. He had heard too thatPharos was entirely surrounded by sea, and therefore misrepresented it as entirely surrounded by the sea, although it had long ago ceased so to be. Now the author of all this wasHomer, and we therefore infer that he was not ignorant concerning either the sources or the mouths of theNile.
§ 1.2.24 They are again mistaken when they say that he was not aware of the isthmus between the sea ofEgypt and theArabian Gulf, and that his description is false, "TheEthiopians, utmost of mankind, These eastward situate, those toward the west." [Od. i. 23.] Nevertheless he is correct, and the criticism of the moderns is quite out of place: indeed, there is so little truth in the assertion thatHomer was ignorant of this isthmus, that I will venture to affirm he was not only acquainted with it, but has also accurately defined it. But none of the grammarians, not even the chiefs of their number,Aristarchus andCrates, have understood the words of our poet on this subject. For they disagree as to the words which follow this expression ofHomer, "TheEthiopians, utmost of mankind, These eastward situate, those towards the west," [Od. i. 23.]Aristarchus writing, "These towards the west, and those towards the east," andCrates, "As well in the west as also in the east. " However, in regard to their hypotheses, it makes no difference whether the passage were written this way or that. One of them, in fact, takes what he considers the mathematical view of the case, and says that the torrid zone is occupied by the ocean, and that on each side of this there is a temperate zone, one inhabited by us and another opposite thereto. And as we call theEthiopians, who are situated to the south, and dwell along the shores of the ocean, the most distant on the face of the inhabited globe; so he supposed that on the other side of the ocean, there were certainEthiopians dwelling along the shores, who would in like manner be considered the most distant by the inhabitants of the other temperate zone; and thus that theEthiopians were double, separated into two divisions by the ocean. He adds, "as well in the west as also in the east," because as the celestial zodiac always corresponds to the terrestrial, and never exceeds in its obliquity the space occupied by the twoEthiopias, the sun's entire course must necessarily be within this space, and also his rising and setting, as it appears to different nations according to the sign which he may be in. He (Crates) adopted this version, because he considered it the more astronomical. But it would have maintained his opinion of the division of theEthiopians into two parts, and at the same time have been much more simple, had he said that theEthiopians dwelt on either side of the ocean from the rising to the setting of the sun. In this case what difference does it make whether we follow his version, or adopt the reading ofAristarchus, "These towards the west, and those towards the east? " which also means, that whether east or west, on either side of the ocean,Ethiopians dwell. ButAristarchus rejects this hypothesis. He says, "TheEthiopians with whom we are acquainted, and who are farthest south from the Greeks, are those described by the poet as being separated into two divisions. ButEthiopia is not so separated as to form two countries, one situated towards the west, the other towards the east, but only one, that which lies south of the Greeks and adjoinsEgypt; but of this the poet was ignorant, as well as of other matters enumerated byApollodorus, which he has falsely stated concerning various places in his second book, containing the catalogue of the ships."
§ 1.2.25 To refuteCrates would require a lengthened argument, which here perhaps may be considered out of place.Aristarchus we commend for rejecting the hypothesis ofCrates, which is open to many objections, and for referring the expression of the poet to ourEthiopia. But the remainder of his statement we must discuss. First, his minute examination of the reading is altogether fruitless, for whichever way it may have been written, his interpretation is equally applicable to both; for what difference is there whether you say thus — In our opinion there are twoEthiopias, one towards the east, the other to the west; or thus — For they are as well towards the east as the west? Secondly, He makes false assumptions. For admitting that the poet was ignorant of the isthmus, and that he alludes to theEthiopia contiguous toEgypt, when he says, "TheEthiopians separated into two divisions;" [Od. i. 23.] what then? Are they not separated into two divisions, and could the poet have thus expressed himself if he had been in ignorance? Is notEgypt, nay, are not theEgyptians, separated into two divisions by theNile from the Delta toSyene, "These towards the west, those towards the east? " And what else isEgypt, with the exception of the island formed by the river and overflowed by its waters; does it not lie on either side of the river both east and west?Ethiopia runs in the same direction asEgypt, and resembles it both in its position with respect to theNile, and in its other geographical circumstances. It is narrow, long, and subject to inundation; beyond the reach of this inundation it is desolate and parched, and unfitted for the habitation of man; some districts lying to the east and some to the west of [the river]. How then can we deny that it is separated into two divisions? Shall theNile, which is looked upon by some people as the proper boundary line betweenAsia andLibya, and which extends southward in length more than 10,000 stadia, embracing in its breadth islands which contain populations of above ten thousand men, the largest of these beingMeroe, the seat of empire and metropolis of theEthiopians, be regarded as too insignificant to divideEthiopia into two parts? The greatest obstacle which they who object to the river being made the line of demarcation between the two continents are able to allege, is, thatEgypt andEthiopia are by this means divided, one part of each being assigned toLibya, and the other toAsia, or, if this will not suit, the continents cannot be divided at all, or at least not by the river.
§ 1.2.26 But besides these there is another method of dividingEthiopia. All those who have sailed along the coasts ofLibya, whether starting from theArabian Gulf, or thePillars, after proceeding a certain distance, have been obliged to turn back again on account of a variety of accidents; and thus originated a general belief that it was divided midway by some isthmus, although the whole of theAtlantic Ocean is confluent, more especially towards the south. Besides, all of these navigators called the final country which they reached,Ethiopia, and described it under that name. Is it therefore at all incredible, thatHomer, misled by such reports, separated them into two divisions, one towards the east and the other west, not knowing whether there were any intermediate countries or not? But there is another ancient tradition related byEphorus, whichHomer had probably fallen in with. He tells us it is reported by theTartessians, that some of theEthiopians, on their arrival inLibya, penetrated into the extreme west, and settled down there, while the rest occupied the greater part of the sea-coast; and in support of this statement he quotes the passage ofHomer, "TheEthiopians, the farthest removed of men, separated into two divisions."
§ 1.2.27 These and other more stringent arguments may be urged againstAristarchus and those of his school, to clear our poet from the charge of such gross ignorance. I assert that the ancient Greeks, in the same way as they classed all the northern nations with which they were familiar under the one name ofScythians, or, according toHomer, Nomades, and afterwards becoming acquainted with those towards the west, styled themKelts andIberians; sometimes compounding the names intoKeltiberians, or Keltoscythians, thus ignorantly uniting various distinct nations; so I affirm they designated asEthiopia the whole of the southern countries towards the ocean. Of this there is evidence, forAeschylus, in thePrometheus Loosed, thus speaks: "There [is] the sacred wave, and the coralled bed of theErythraean Sea, and [there] the luxuriant marsh of theEthiopians, situated near the ocean, glitters like polished brass; where daily in the soft and tepid stream, the all-seeing sun bathes his undying self, and refreshes his weary steeds." And as the ocean holds the same position in respect to the sun, and serves the same purpose throughout the whole southern region, he therefore concludes that theEthiopians inhabited the whole of the region. AndEuripides in his Phaeton says thatClymene was given "ToMerops, sovereign of that land Which from his four-horsed chariot first The rising sun strikes with his golden rays; And which its swarthy neighbours call The radiant stable of the Morn andSun." Here the poet merely describes them as the common stables of the Morning and of theSun; but further on he tells us they were near to the dwellings ofMerops, and in fact the whole plot of the piece has reference to this. This does not therefore refer alone to the [land] next toEgypt, but rather to the whole southern country extending along the sea-coast.
§ 1.2.28 Ephorus likewise shows us the opinion of the ancients respectingEthiopia, in his Treatise on Europe. He says, "If the whole celestial and terrestrial globe were divided into four parts, theIndians would possess that towards the east, theEthiopians towards the south, theKelts towards the west, and theScythians towards the north." He adds thatEthiopia is larger thanScythia; for, says he, it appears that the country of theEthiopians extends from the rising to the setting of the sun in winter; andScythia is opposite to it. It is evident this was the opinion ofHomer, since he placesIthaca "Towards the gloomy region," that is, towards the north, but the others apart, "Towards the morning and the sun," by which he means the whole southern hemisphere: and again when he says, "speed they their course With right-hand flight towards the ruddy east, Or leftward down into the shades of eve." Iliad xii. 239. And again, "Alas! my friends, for neither west Know we, nor east, where rises or where sets The all-enlightening sun." [Od. x. 190.] Which we shall explain more fully when we come to speak ofIthaca. When therefore he says, "For to the banks of theOceanus, WhereEthiopia holds a feast toJove, He journey'd yesterday," Iliad i. 423. we should take this in a general sense, and understand by it the whole of the ocean which washesEthiopia and the southern region, for to whatever part of this region you direct your attention, you will there find both the ocean andEthiopia. It is in a similar style he says, "ButNeptune, traversing in his return FromEthiopia's sons the mountain heights OfSolyme, descried him from afar." [Od. v. 282.] which is equal to saying, "in his return from the southern regions," meaning by theSolymi, as I remarked before, not those ofPisidia, but certain others merely imaginary, having the same name, and bearing the like relation to the navigators in [Ulysses'] ship, and the southern inhabitants there calledEthiopians, as those ofPisidia do in regard toPontus and the inhabitants ofEgyptianEthiopia. What he says about the cranes must likewise be understood in a general sense. " Such clang is heard Along the skies, when from incessant showers Escaping, and from winter's cold, the cranes Take wing, and over ocean speed away. Woe to the land of dwarfs! prepared they fly For slaughter of the small Pygmaean race." Iliad iii. 3. For it is not in Greece alone that the crane is observed to emigrate to more southern regions, but likewise fromItaly andIberia, from [the shores of] theCaspian, and fromBactriana. But since the ocean extends along the whole southern coast, and the cranes fly to all parts of it indiscriminately at the approach of winter, we must likewise believe that thePygmies were equally considered to inhabit the whole of it. And if the moderns have confined the term ofEthiopians to those only who dwell near toEgypt, and have also restricted thePygmies in like manner, this must not be allowed to interfere with the meaning of the ancients. We do not speak of all the people who fought againstTroy as merelyAchaeans andArgives, thoughHomer describes the whole under those two names. Similar to this is my remark concerning the separation of theEthiopians into two divisions, that under that designation we should understand the whole of the nations inhabiting the sea-board from east to west. TheEthiopians taken in this sense are naturally separated into two parts by theArabian Gulf, which occupies a considerable portion of a meridian circle, and resembles a river, being in length nearly 15,000 stadia, and in breadth not above 1000 at the widest point. In addition to the length, the recess of the Gulf is distant from the sea atPelusium only three or four days' journey across the isthmus. On this account those who are most felicitous in their division ofAsia and Africa, prefer the Gulf as a better boundary line for the two continents than theNile, since it extends almost entirely from sea to sea, whereas theNile is so remote from the ocean that it does not by any means divide the whole ofAsia from Africa. On this account I believe it was the Gulf which the poet looked upon as dividing into two portions the whole southern regions of the inhabited earth. Is it possible, then, that he was unacquainted with the isthmus which separates this Gulf from theEgyptian Sea?
§ 1.2.29 It is quite irrational to suppose that he could be accurately acquainted withEgyptianThebes, which is separated from our sea by a little less than 5000 stadia; and yet ignorant of the recess of theArabian Gulf, and of the isthmus there, whose breadth is not more than 1000 stadia. Still more, would it not be ridiculous to believe thatHomer was aware theNile was called by the same name as the vast country [ofEgypt], and yet unacquainted with the reason why? Especially since the saying ofHerodotus would occur to him, that the country was a gift from the river, and it ought therefore to bear its name. Further, the best known peculiarities of a country are those which have something of the nature of a paradox, and are likely to arrest general attention. Of this kind are the rising of theNile, and the alluvial deposition at its mouth. There is nothing in the whole country to which travellers inEgypt so immediately direct their inquiries, as the character of theNile; nor do the inhabitants possess anything else equally wonderful and curious, of which to inform foreigners; for in fact, to give them a description of the river, is to lay open to their view every main characteristic of the country. It is the question put before every other by those who have never seenEgypt themselves. To these considerations we must addHomer's thirst after knowledge, and his delight in visiting foreign lands, (tastes which we are assured both by those who have written histories of his life, and also by innumerable testimonies throughout his own poems, he possessed in an eminent degree,) and we shall have abundant evidence both of the extent of his information, and the felicity with which he described objects he deemed important, and passed over altogether, or with slight allusion, matters which were generally known.
§ 1.2.30 TheseEgyptians and Syrians whom we have been criticising fill one with amazement. They do not understand [Homer], even when he is describing their own countries, but accuse him of ignorance where, as our argument proves, they are open to the charge themselves. Not to mention a thing is clearly no evidence that a person is not acquainted with it.Homer does not tell us of the change in the current of theEuripus, nor ofThermopylae, nor of many other remarkable things well known to the Greeks; but was he therefore unacquainted with them? He describes to us, although these men, who are obstinately deaf, will not hear: they have themselves to blame. Our poet applies to rivers the epithet of "heaven-sent." And this not only to mountain torrents, but to all rivers alike, since they are all replenished by the showers. But even what is general becomes particular when it is bestowed on any object par excellence. Heaven-sent, when applied to a mountain torrent, means something else than when it is the epithet of the ever-flowing river; but the force of the term is doubly felt when attributed to theNile. For as there are hyperboles of hyperboles, for instance, to be "lighter than the shadow of a cork," "more timid than aPhrygian hare," to "possess an estate shorter than aLacedemonian epistle;" so excellence becomes more excellent, when the title of "heaven-sent" is given to theNile. The mountain torrent has a better claim to be called heaven-sent than other rivers, but theNile exceeds the mountain torrents, both in its size and the lengthened period of its overflow. Since, then, the wonders of this river were known to our poet, as we have shown in this defence, when he applies this epithet to theNile, it must only be understood in the way we have explained.Homer did not think it worth mentioning, especially to those who were acquainted with the fact, that theNile had many mouths, since this is a common feature of numerous other rivers.Alcaeus does not mention it, although he tells us he had been inEgypt. One might infer the fact of its alluvial deposit, both From the rising [of the river] and whatHomer tells us concerningPharos. For his account, or rather the vulgar report concerningPharos, that it was distant from the mainland a whole day's voyage, ought not to be looked upon as a downright falsehood. It is clear thatHomer was only acquainted with the rising and deposit of the river in a general way, and concluding from what he heard that the island had been further removed in the time ofMenelaus from the mainland, than it was in his own, he magnified the distance, simply that he might heighten the fiction. Fictions however are not the offspring of ignorance, as is sufficiently plain from those concerningProteus, thePygmies, the efficacy of charms, and many others similar to these fabricated by the poets. They narrate these things not through ignorance of the localities, but for the sake of giving pleasure and enjoyment. But [some one may inquire], how could he describe [Pharos], which is without water as possessed of that necessary? " The haven there is good, and many a ship Finds watering there from rivulets on the coast." [Od. iv. 358.] [I answer, ] It is not impossible that the sources of water may since have failed. Besides, he does not say that the water was procured from the island, but that they went thither on account of the safety of the harbour; the water was probably obtained from the mainland, and by the expression the poet seems to admit that what he had before said of its being wholly surrounded by sea was not the actual fact, but a hyperbole or fiction.
§ 1.2.31 As his description of the wanderings ofMenelaus may seem to authenticate the charge of ignorance made against him in respect to those regions, it will perhaps be best to point out the difficulties of the narrative, and their explanation, and at the same time enter into a fuller defence of our poet.Menelaus thus addressesTelemachus, who is admiring the splendour of his palace: "After numerous toils And perilous wanderings o'er the stormy deep, In the eighth year at last I brought them home.Cyprus,Phoenicia,Sidon, and the shores OfEgypt, roaming without hope, I reach'd, In distantEthiopia thence arrived, AndLibya." [Od. iv. 81.] It is asked, WhatEthiopians could he have met with on his voyage fromEgypt? None are to be found dwelling by our sea, and with his vessels he could never have reached the cataracts of theNile. Next, who are theSidonians? Certainly not the inhabitants ofPhoenicia; for leaving mentioned the genus, he would assuredly not particularize the species. And then theErembi; this is altogether a new name. Our contemporaryAristonicus, the grammarian, in his [observations] on the wanderings ofMenelaus, has recorded the opinions of numerous writers on each of the heads under discussion. It will be sufficient for us to refer to them very briefly. They who assert thatMenelaus went by sea toEthiopia, tell us he directed his course pastCadiz into the Indian Ocean; with which, say they, the long duration of his wanderings agrees, since he did not arrive there till the eighth year. Others, that he passed through the isthmus which enters theArabian Gulf; and others again, through one of the canals. At the same time the idea of this circumnavigation, which owes its origin toCrates, is not necessary; we do not mean it was impossible, (for the wanderings ofUlysses are not impossible,) but neither the mathematical hypothesis, not yet the duration of the wandering, require such an explanation; for he was both retarded against his will by accidents in the voyage, as by [the tempest] which he narrates five only of his sixty ships survived; and also by voluntary delays for the sake of amassing wealth.Nestor says [of him], "Thus he, provision gathering as he went, And gold abundant, roam'd to distant lands." [Od. iii. 301.] [AndMenelaus himself], "Cyprus,Phoenicia, and theEgyptians' land I wandered through." [Od. iv. 83.] As to the navigation of the isthmus, or one of the canals, if it had been related byHomer himself, we should have counted it a myth; but as he does not relate it, we regard it as entirely extravagant and unworthy of belief. We say unworthy of belief, because at the time of theTrojan War no canal was in existence. It is recorded thatSesostris, who had planned the formation of one, apprehending that the level of the sea was too high to admit of it, desisted from the undertaking. Moreover the isthmus itself was not passable for ships, andEratosthenes is unfortunate in his conjecture, for he considers that the strait at thePillars was not then formed, so that theAtlantic should by that channel communicate with the Mediterranean, and that this sea being higher than the Isthmus [of Suez], covered it; but when the Strait [of Gibraltar] was formed, the sea subsided considerably; and left the land aboutCasium andPelusium dry as far over as theRed Sea. But what account have we of the formation of this strait, supposing it were not in existence prior to theTrojan War? Is it likely that our poet would makeUlysses sail out through the Strait [of Gibraltar] into theAtlantic Ocean, as if that strait already existed, and at the same time describeMenelaus conducting his ships fromEgypt to theRed Sea, as if it did not exist. Further, the poet introducesProteus as saying to him, "Thee the gods Have destined to the blestElysian Isles,Earth's utmost boundaries." [Od. iv. 563.] And what this place was, namely, some far western region, is evident from [the mention of] theZephyr in connexion with it: "ButZephyr always gently from the sea Breathes on them." [Od. iv. 567.] This, however, is very enigmatical.
§ 1.2.32 But if our poet speaks of the Isthmus of Suez as ever having been the strait of confluence between the Mediterranean and theRed Sea s, how much more credit may we attribute to his division of theEthiopians into two portions, being thus separated by so grand a strait! And what commerce could he have carried on with theEthiopians who dwelt by the shores of the exterior sea and the ocean?Telemachus and his companions admire the multitude of ornaments that were in the palace, "Of gold, electrum, silver, ivory." [Od. iv. 73.] Now theEthiopians are possessed of none of these productions in any abundance, excepting ivory, being for the most part a needy and nomad race. True, [you say, ] but adjoining them isArabia, and the whole country as far asIndia. One of these is distinguished above all other lands by the title ofFelix, and the other, though not dignified by that name, is both generally believed and also said to be preeminently Blessed. But [we reply],Homer was not acquainted withIndia, or he would have described it. And though he knew of theArabia which is now namedFelix, at that time it was by no means wealthy, but a wild country, the inhabitants of which dwelt for the most part in tents. It is only a small district which produces the aromatics from which the whole territory afterwards received its name, owing to the rarity of the commodity amongst us, and the value set upon it. That theArabians are now flourishing and wealthy is due to their vast and extended traffic, but formerly it does not appear to have been considerable. A merchant orcamel-driver might attain to opulence by the sale of these aromatics and similar commodities; butMenelaus could only become so either by plunder, or presents conferred on him by kings and nobles, who had the means at their disposal, and wished to gratify one so distinguished by glory and renown. TheEgyptians, it is true, and the neighbouringEthiopians andArabians, were not so entirely destitute of the luxuries of civilization, nor so unacquainted with the fame ofAgamemnon, especially after the termination of theTrojan War, but thatMenelaus might have expected some benefits from their generosity, even as the breastplate ofAgamemnon is said to be "The gift OfCinyras long since; for rumour loud HadCyprus reached." Iliad xi. 20. And we are told that the greater part of his wanderings were inPhoenicia,Syria,Egypt, Africa, aroundCyprus, and, in fact, the whole of our coasts and islands. Here, indeed, he might hope to enrich himself both by the gifts of friendship and by violence, and especially by the plunder of those who had been the allies ofTroy. They however who dwelt on the exterior ocean, and the distant barbarians, held out no such encouragement: and whenMenelaus is said to have been inEthiopia, it is because he had reached the frontiers of that country nextEgypt. But perhaps at that time the frontiers lay more contiguous toThebes than they do now. At the present day the nearest are the districts adjacent toSyene andPhilae, the former town being entirely inEgypt, whilePhilae is inhabited by a mixed population ofEthiopians andEgyptians. Supposing therefore he had arrived atThebes, and thus reached the boundary-line ofEthiopia, where he experienced the munificence of the king, we must not be surprised if he is described as having passed through the country. On no better authorityUlysses declares he has been to the land of theCyclops, although he merely left the sea to enter a cavern which he himself tells us was situated on the very borders of the country: and, in fact, wherever he came to anchor, whether atAeolia,Laestrygonia, or elsewhere, he is stated to have visited those places. In the same mannerMenelaus is said to have been toEthiopia andLibya, because here and there he touched at those places, and the port near Ardania aboveParaetonium is called after him "the port ofMenelaus."
§ 1.2.33 When, after mentioningPhoenicia, he talks ofSidon, its metropolis, he merely employs a common form of expression, for example, "He urged theTrojans andHector to the ships." (Iliad xiii.1) "For the sons of magnanimousOeneus were no more, nor was he himself surviving; moreover, fair-hairedMeleager was dead." "He came toIda — and toGargarus." Iliad viii.47 "He possessedEuboea,Chalcis, andEretria." Iliad ii. 536.Sappho likewise [says], "WhetherCyprus, or the well-harbouredPaphos." But he had some other cause besides this for mentioningSidon immediately after having spoken of thePhoenicians: for had he merely desired to recount the nations in order, it would have been quite sufficient to say, "Having wandered toCyprus,Phoenice, and theEgyptians, I came to theEthiopians." But that he might record his sojourn amongst theSidonians, which was considerably prolonged, he thought it well to refer to it repeatedly. Thus he praises their prosperity and skill in the arts, and alludes to the hospitality the citizens had shown toHelen andAlexander. Thus he tells us of the many [treasures]of this nature laid up in store byAlexander. " There his treasures lay, Works ofSidonian women, whom her son, The godlikeParis, when he crossed the seas WithJove-begottenHelen, brought toTroy." Iliad vi. 289. And also byMenelaus, who says toTelemachus, "'I give thee this bright beaker, argent all, But round encircled with a lip of gold. It is the work ofVulcan, which to me The heroPhaedimus presented, king Of theSidonians, when on my return Beneath his roof I lodged. I make it thine.'" [Od. xv. 115.] Here the expression, "work ofVulcan," must be looked upon as a hyperbole: in the same way all elegant productions are said to be the work ofMinerva, of theGraces, or of theMuses. But that theSidonians were skilful artists, is clear from the praises bestowed [byHomer] on the bowl whichEuneos gave in exchange forLycaon: "Earth Own'd not its like for elegance of form. SkilfulSidonian artists had around Embellish'd it, and o'er the sable deepPhoenician merchants intoLemnos' port Had borne it." Iliad xxiii.742.
§ 1.2.34 Many conjectures have been hazarded as to who theErembi were: they who suppose theArabs are intended, seem to deserve the most credit. OurZeno reads the passage thus: — " I came to theEthiopians, theSidonians, and theArabians." But there is no occasion to tamper with the text, which is of great antiquity; it is a far preferable course to suppose a change in the name itself, which is of frequent and ordinary occurrence in every nation: and in fact certain grammarians establish this view by a comparison of the radical letters.Posidonius seems to me to adopt the better plan after all, in looking for the etymology of names in nations of one stock and community; thus between theArmenians, Syrians, andArabians there is a strong affinity both in regard to dialect, mode of life, peculiarities of physical conformation, and above all in the contiguity of the countries.Mesopotamia, which is a motley of the three nations, is a proof of this; for the similarity amongst these three is very remarkable. And though in consequence of the various latitudes there may be some difference between those who dwell in the north and those of the south, and again between each of these and the inhabitants of the middle region, still the same characteristics are dominant in all. Also theAssyrians andArians have a great affinity both to these people and to each other. And [Posidonius] believes there is a similarity in the names of these different nations. Those whom we call Syrians style themselvesArmenians and Arammaeans, names greatly like those of theArmenians,Arabs, andErembi. Perhaps this [last] term is that by which the Greeks anciently designated theArabs; the etymon of the word certainly strengthens the idea. Many deduce the etymology of theErembi from ἔραν ἐμβαίνειν, (to go into the earth,) which [they say] was altered by the people of a later generation into the more intelligible name ofTroglodytes, by which are intended thoseArabs who dwell on that side of theArabian Gulf next toEgypt andEthiopia. It is probable then that the poet describesMenelaus as having visited these people in the same way that he says he visited theEthiopians; for they are likewise near to theThebaid; and he mentions them not on account of any commerce or gain, (for of these there was not much,) but probably to enhance the length of the journey and his meed of praise: for such distant travelling was highly thought of. For example, — " Discover'd various cities, and the mind And manners learn'd of men in lands remote." [Od. i. 3.] And again: "After numerous toils And perilous wanderings o'er the stormy deep, In the eighth year at last I brought them home." [Od. iv. 81.]Hesiod, in his Catalogue, writes, "And the daughter ofArabus, whom graciousHermes andThronia, descended from kingBelus, brought forth." Thus, too, saysStesichorus. Whence it seems that at that time the country was from him namedArabia, though it is not likely this was the case in the heroic period.
§ 1.2.35 There are many who would make theErembi a tribe of theEthiopians, or of theCephenes, or again of thePygmies, and a thousand other fancies. These ought to be regarded with little trust; since their opinion is not only incredible, but they evidently labour under a certain confusion as to the different characters of history and fable. In the same category must be reckoned those who place theSidonians andPhoenicians in thePersian Gulf, or somewhere else in the Ocean, and make the wanderings ofMenelaus to have happened there. Not the least cause for mistrusting these writers is the manner in which they contradict each other. One half would have us believe that theSidonians are a colony from the people whom they describe as located on the shores of the [Indian] Ocean, and who they say were calledPhoenicians from the colour of theErythraean Sea, while the others declare the opposite. Some again would transportEthiopia into ourPhoenicia, and makeJoppa the scene of the adventures ofAndromeda; and this not from any ignorance of the topography of those places, but by a kind of mythic fiction similar to those ofHesiod and other writers censured byApollodorus, who, however, couplesHomer with them, without, as it appears, any cause. He cites as instances whatHomer relates of theEuxine andEgypt, and accuses him of ignorance for pretending to speak the actual truth, and then recounting fable, all the while ignorantly mistaking it for fact. Will anyone then accuseHesiod of ignorance on account of his Hemicynes, hisMacrocephali, and hisPygmies; orHomer for his like fables, and amongst others thePygmies themselves; orAlcman for describing theSteganopodes; orAeschylus for hisCynocephali, Sternophthalmi, andMonommati; when amongst prose writers, and in works bearing the appearance of veritable history, we frequently meet with similar narrations, and that without any admission of their having inserted such myths. Indeed it becomes immediately evident that they have woven together a tissue of myths not through ignorance of the real facts, but merely to amuse by a deceptive narration of the impossible and marvellous. If they appear to do this in ignorance, it is because they can romance more frequently and with greater plausibility on those things which are uncertain and unknown. ThisTheopompus plainly confesses in the announcement of his intention to relate the fables in his history in a better style thanHerodotus,Ctesias,Hellanicus, and those who had written on the affairs ofIndia.
§ 1.2.36 Homer has described to us the phenomena of the ocean under the form of a myth; this [art] is very desirable in a poet; the idea of hisCharybdis was taken from the ebb and flow of the tide, and was by no means a pure invention of his own, but derived from what he knew concerning theStrait of Sicily. And although he states that the ebb and flow occurred thrice during the four and twenty hours, instead of twice, "(Each day she thrice disgorges, and each day Thrice swallows it") we must suppose that he said this not through any ignorance of the fact, but for tragic effect, and to excite the fear whichCirce endeavours to infuse into her arguments to deterUlysses from departing, even at a little expense of truth. The following is the languageCirce makes use of in her speech to him: "Each day she thrice disgorges, and each day Thrice swallows it. Ah! well-forewarn'd beware What time she swallows, that thou come not nigh, For not himself,Neptune, could snatch thee thence." [Od. xii. 105.] And yet whenUlysses was ingulfed in the eddy he was not lost. He tells us himself, "'It was the time when she absorb'd profound The briny flood, but by a wave upborne, I seized the branches fast of the wild fig, To which bat-like I clung." And then having waited for the timbers of the wreck he seized hold of them, and thus saved himself.Circe, therefore, had exaggerated both the peril, and also the fact of its vomiting forth thrice a day instead of twice. However, this latter is a hyperbole which every one makes use of; thus we say thricehappy and thrice-miserable. So the poet, "Thrice-happy Greeks!" [Od. v. 306.] Again, "O delightful, thrice-wished for!" Iliad viii. 488. And again, "O thrice and four times." Iliad iii. 363. Any one, too, might conclude from the passage itself thatHomer even here hinted at the truth, for the long time which the remains of the wreck lay under water, whichUlysses, who was all the while hanging suspended to the branches, so anxiously desired to rise, accords much better with the ebb and flow taking place but twice during the night and day instead of thrice. " Therefore hard I clench'd the boughs, till she disgorged again Both keel and mast. Not undesired by me They came, though late; for at what hour the judge, After decision made of numerous strifes Between young candidates for honour, leaves The forum, for refreshment's sake at home, Then was it that the mast and keel emerged." [Od. xii. 437.] Every word of this indicates a considerable length of time, especially when he prolongs it to the evening, not merely saying at that time when the judge has risen, but having adjudicated on a vast number of cases, and therefore detained longer than usual. Otherwise his account of the return of the wreck would not have appeared likely, if he had brought it back again with the return of the wave, before it had been first carried a long way off.
§ 1.2.37 Apollodorus, who agrees withEratosthenes, throws much blame uponCallimachus for asserting, in spite of his character as a grammarian, thatGaudus andCorcyra were among the scenes ofUlysses' wandering, such an opinion being altogether in defiance ofHomer's statement, and his description of the places as situated in the exterior ocean. This criticism is just if we suppose the wandering to have never actually occurred, and to be merely the result ofHomer's imagination; but if it did take place, although in other regions,Apollodorus ought plainly to have stated which they were, and thus set right the mistake ofCallimachus. Since, however, after such evidence as we have produced, we cannot believe the whole account to be a fiction, and since no other more likely places have as yet been named, we hold that the grammarian is absolved from blame.
§ 1.2.38 Demetrius ofSkepsis is also wrong, and, in fact, the cause of some of the mistakes ofApollodorus. He eagerly objects to the statement ofNeanthes ofCyzicus, that theArgonauts, when they sailed to thePhasis, instituted atCyzicus the rites of theIdaean Mother. Though their voyage is attested both byHomer and other writers, he denies thatHomer had any knowledge whatever of the departure ofJason to thePhasis. In so doing, he not only contradicts the very words ofHomer, but even his own assertions. The poet informs us thatAchilles, having ravagedLesbos and other districts, sparedLemnos and the adjoining islands, on account of his relationship withJason and his sonEuneos, who then had possession of the island. How should he know of a relationship, identity of race, or other connexion existing betweenAchilles andJason, which, after all, was nothing else than that they were bothThessalians, one being ofIolcos, the other of theAchaean Phthiotis, and yet was not aware how it happened thatJason, who was aThessalian ofIolcos, should leave no descendants in the land of his nativity, but establish his son as ruler ofLemnos?Homer then was familiar with the history ofPelias and the daughters ofPelias, ofAlcestis, who was the most charming of them all, and of her son "Eumelus, whomAlcestis, praised For beauty above all her sisters fair, InThessaly to kingAdmetus bore," Iliad ii. 714. and was yet ignorant of all that befellJason, andArgo, and theArgonauts, matters on the actual occurrence of which all the world is agreed. The tale then of their voyage in the ocean fromAeeta, was a mere fiction, for which he had no authority in history.
§ 1.2.39 If, however, the expedition to thePhasis, fitted out byPelias, its return, and the conquest of several islands, have at the bottom any truth whatever, as all say they have, so also has the account of their wanderings, no less than those ofUlysses andMenelaus; monuments of the actual occurrence of which remain to this day elsewhere than in the writings ofHomer. The city ofAea, close by thePhasis, is still pointed out.Aeetes is generally believed to have reigned inColchis, the name is still common throughout the country, tales of the sorceressMedea are yet abroad, and the riches of the country in gold, silver, and iron, proclaim the motive ofJason's expedition, as well as of that whichPhrixus had formerly undertaken. Traces both of one and the other still remain. Such is Phrixium, midway betweenColchis andIberia, and theJasonia, or towns ofJason, which are everywhere met with inArmenia,Media, and the surrounding countries. Many are the witnesses to the reality of the expeditions ofJason andPhrixus atSinope and its shore, atPropontis, at theHellespont, and even atLemnos. OfJason and hisColchian followers there are traces even as far asCrete,Italy, and theAdriatic.Callimachus himself alludes to it where he says, "AigletenAnaphe, Near toLaconianThera." In the verses which commence, "I sing how the heroes from CytaeanAeeta, Return'd again to ancientAemonia." And again concerning theColchians, who, "Ceasing to plough with oars theIllyrian Sea,
Near to the tomb of fairHarmonia,
Who was transform'd into a dragon's shape,
Founded their city, which a Greek would call
The Town of Fugitives, but in their tongue
IsPola named." Some writers assert thatJason and his companions sailed high up theIster, others say he sailed only so far as to be able to gain theAdriatic: the first statement results altogether from ignorance; the second, which supposes there is a secondIster having its source from the larger river of the same name, and discharging its waters into theAdriatic, is neither incredible nor even improbable.
§ 1.2.40 Starting from these premises, the poet, in conformity both with general custom and his own practice, narrates some circumstances as they actually occurred, and paints others in the colours of fiction. He follows history when he tells us ofAeetes andJason also, when he talks ofArgo, and on the authority of [the actual city ofAea], feigns his city ofAeaea, when he settlesEuneos inLemnos, and makes that island friendly toAchilles, and when, in imitation ofMedea, he makes the sorceressCirce " Sister by birth of the all-wiseAeetes," [Od. x. 137.] he adds the fiction of the entrance of theArgonauts into the exterior ocean as the sequel to their wanderings on their return home. Here, supposing the previous statements admitted, the truth of the phrase "the renownedArgo," is evident, since, in that case, the expedition was directed to a populous and well-known country. But if, as [Demetrius] theSkepsian asserts, on the authority ofMimnermus,Aeetes dwelt by the Ocean, andJason was sent thither far east byPelias, to bring back the fleece, it neither seems probable that such an expedition would have been undertaken into unknown and obscure countries after the Fleece, nor could a voyage to lands desert, uninhabited, and so far remote from us, be considered either glorious or renowned. [Here follow the words ofDemetrius.] "Nor as yet hadJason, having accomplished the arduous journey, carried off the splendid fleece fromAea, fulfilling the dangerous mission of the insolentPelias, nor had they ploughed the glorious wave of the ocean." And again: "The city ofAeetes, where the rays of the swift sun recline on their golden bed by the shore of the ocean, which the nobleJason visited."
§ 1.3.1 Eratosthenes is guilty of another fault in so frequently referring to the works of men beneath his notice, sometimes for the purpose of refuting them; at others, when he agrees with them, in order to cite them as authorities. I allude toDamastes, and such as him, who even when they speak the truth, are utterly unworthy of being appealed to as authorities, or vouchers for the credibility of a statement. For such purposes the writings of trustworthy men should only be employed, who have accurately described much; and though perhaps they may have omitted many points altogether, and barely touched on others, are yet never guilty of wilfully falsifying their statements. To citeDamastes as an authority is little better than to quote theBergaean, orEuemerus theMessenian, and those other scribblers whomEratosthenes himself sneers at for their absurdities. Why, he even points out as one of the follies of thisDamastes, his observation that theArabian Gulf was a lake; likewise the statement thatDiotimus, the son of Strombicus and chief of theAthenian legation, sailed throughCilicia up theCydnus into the riverChoaspes, which flows bySusa, and so arrived at that capital after forty days' journey. This particular he professes to state on the authority ofDiotimus himself, and then expresses his wonder whether theCydnus could actually cross theEuphrates andTigris in order to disgorge itself into theChoaspes.
§ 1.3.2 However, this is not all we have to say against him. Of many places he tells us that nothing is known, when in fact they have every one been accurately described. Then he warns us to be very cautious in believing what we are told on such matters, and endeavours by long and tedious arguments to show the value of his advice; swallowing at the same time the most ridiculous absurdities himself concerning theEuxine andAdriatic. Thus he believed theGulf of Issos to be the most easterly point of the Mediterranean, thoughDioscurias, which is nearly at the bottom of thePontus Euxinus, is, according to his own calculations, farther east by a distance of 3000 stadia. In describing the northern and farther parts of theAdriatic he cannot refrain from similar romancing, and gives credit to many strange narrations concerning what lies beyond thePillars of Hercules, informing us of an Isle ofKerne there, and other places now nowhere to be found, which we shall speak of presently. Having remarked that the ancients, whether out onpiratical excursions, or for the purposes of commerce, never ventured into the high seas, but crept along the coast, and instancingJason, who leaving his vessels atColchis penetrated intoArmenia andMedia on foot, he proceeds to tell us that formerly no one dared to navigate either theEuxine or the seas byLibya,Syria, andCilicia. If by formerly he means periods so long past that we possess no record of them, it is of little consequence to us whether they navigated those seas or not, but if [he speaks] of times of which we know any thing, and if we are to place any trust in the accounts which have come down to us, every one will admit that the ancients appear to have made longer journeys both by sea and land than their successors; witnessBacchus,Hercules, nayJason himself, and againUlysses andMenelaus, of whomHomer tells us. It seems most probable thatTheseus andPirithous are indebted to some long voyages for the credit they afterwards obtained of having visited the infernal regions; and in like manner theDioscuri gained the appellation of guardians of the sea, and the deliverers of sailors. The sovereignty of the seas exercised byMinos, and the navigation carried on by thePhoenicians, is well known. A little after the period of theTrojan War they had penetrated beyond thePillars of Hercules, and founded cities as well there as to the midst of the African coast. Is it not correct to number amongst the ancientsAeneas,Antenor, theHeneti, and all the crowd of warriors, who, after the destruction ofTroy, wandered over the face of the whole earth? For at the conclusion of the war both the Greeks and Barbarians found themselves deprived, the one of their livelihood at home, the other of the fruits of their expedition; so that whenTroy was overthrown, the victors, and still more the vanquished, who had survived the conflict, were compelled by want to a life ofpiracy; and we learn that they became the founders of many cities along the sea-coast beyond Greece, besides several inland settlements.
§ 1.3.3 Again, having discoursed on the advance of knowledge respecting the Geography of the inhabited earth, between the time ofAlexander and the period when he was writing,Eratosthenes goes into a description of the figure of the earth; not merely of the habitable earth, an account of which would have been very suitable, but of the whole earth, which should certainly have been given too, but not in this disorderly manner. He proceeds to tell us that the earth is spheroidal, not however perfectly so, inasmuch as it has certain irregularities, he then enlarges on the successive changes of its form, occasioned by water, fire, earthquakes, eruptions, and the like; all of which is entirely out of place, for the spheroidal form of the whole earth is the result of the system of the universe, and the phenomena which he mentions do not in the least change its general form; such little matters being entirely lost in the great mass of the earth. Still they cause various peculiarities in different parts of our globe, and result from a variety of causes.
§ 1.3.4 He points out as a most interesting subject for disquisition the fact of our finding, often quite inland, two or three thousand stadia from the sea, vast numbers of muscle, oyster, and scallop-shells, and salt-water lakes. He gives as an instance, that about the sanctuary ofAmmon, and along the road to it for the space of 3000 stadia, there are yet found a vast amount of oyster shells, many salt-beds, and salt springs bubbling up, besides which are pointed out numerous fragments of wreck which they say have been cast up through some opening, anddolphins placed on pedestals with the inscription, Of the delegates fromCyrene. Herein he agrees with the opinion ofStrato the natural philosopher, andXanthus ofLydia.Xanthus mentioned that in the reign ofArtaxerxes there was so great a drought, that every river, lake, and well was dried up: and that in many places he had seen a long way from the sea fossil shells, some like cockles, others resembling scallop shells, also salt lakes inArmenia,Matiana, and LowerPhrygia, which induced him to believe that sea had formerly been where the land now was.Strato, who went more deeply into the causes of these phenomena, was of opinion that formerly there was no exit to theEuxine as now atByzantium, but that the rivers running into it had forced a way through, and thus let the waters escape into thePropontis, and thence to theHellespont. And that a like change had occurred in the Mediterranean. For the sea being overflowed by the rivers, had opened for itself a passage by thePillars of Hercules, and thus, much that was formerly covered by water, had been left dry. He gives as the cause of this, that anciently the levels of the Mediterranean andAtlantic were not the same, and states that a bank of earth, the remains of the ancient separation of the two seas, is still stretched under water from Europe to Africa. He adds, that theEuxine is the most shallow, and the seas ofCrete,Sicily, andSardinia much deeper, which is occasioned by the number of large rivers flowing into theEuxine both from the north and east, and so filling it up with mud, whilst the others preserve their depth. This is the cause of the remarkable sweetness of theEuxine Sea, and of the currents which regularly set towards the deepest part. He gives it as his opinion, that should the rivers continue to flow in the same direction, theEuxine will in time be filled up [by the deposits], since already the left side of the sea is little else than shallows, as alsoSalmydessus, and the shoals at the mouth of theIster, and the desert ofScythia, which the sailors call the Breasts. Probably too the sanctuary ofAmmon was originally close to the sea, though now, by the continual deposit of the waters, it is quite inland: and he conjectures that it was owing to its being so near the sea that it became so celebrated and illustrious, and that it never would have enjoyed the credit it now possesses had it always been equally remote from the sea.Egypt too [he says] was formerly covered by sea as far as the marshes nearPelusium, MountCasius, and the LakeSirbonis. Even at the present time, when salt is being dug inEgypt, the beds are found under layers of sand and mingled with fossil shells, as if this district had formerly been under water, and as if the whole region aboutCasium andGerrha had been shallows reaching to theArabian Gulf. The sea afterwards receding left the land uncovered, and the LakeSirbonis remained, which having afterwards forced itself a passage, became a marsh. In like manner the borders of the LakeMoeris resemble a sea-beach rather than the banks of a river. Every one will admit that formerly at various periods a great portion of the mainland has been covered and again left bare by the sea. Likewise that the land now covered by the sea is not all on the same level, any more than that whereon we dwell; which is now uncovered and has experienced so many changes, asEratosthenes has observed. Consequently in the reasoning ofXanthus there does not appear to be any thing out of place.
§ 1.3.5 In regard toStrato, however, we must remark that, leaving out of the question the many arguments he has properly stated, some of those which he has brought forward are quite inadmissible. For first he is inaccurate in stating that the beds of the interior and the exterior seas have not the same level, and that the depth of those two seas is different: whereas the cause why the sea is at one time raised, at another depressed, that it inundates certain places and again retreats, is not that the beds have different levels, some higher and some lower, but simply this, that the same beds are at one time raised, at another depressed, causing the sea to rise or subside with them; for having risen they cause an inundation, and when they subside the waters return to their former places. For if it is so, an inundation will of course accompany every sudden increase of the waters of the sea, [as in the spring-tides, ] or the periodical swelling of rivers, in the one instance the waters being brought together from distant parts of the ocean, in the other, their volume being increased. But the risings of rivers are not violent and sudden, nor do the tides continue any length of time, nor occur irregularly; nor yet along the coasts of our sea do they cause inundations, nor any where else. Consequently we must seek for an explanation of the cause either in the stratum composing the bed of the sea, or in that which is overflowed; we prefer to look for it in the former, since by reason of its humidity it is more liable to shiftings and sudden changes of position, and we shall find that in these matters the wind is the great agent after all. But, I repeat it, the immediate cause of these phenomena, is not in the fact of one part of the bed of the ocean being higher or lower than another, but in the upheaving or depression of the strata on which the waters rest.Strato's hypothesis evidently originated in the belief that that which occurs in rivers is also the case in regard to the sea; viz. that there is a flow of water from the higher places. Otherwise he would not have attempted to account for the current he observed at the Strait ofByzantium in the manner he does, attributing it to the bed of theEuxine being higher than that of thePropontis and adjoining ocean, and even attempting to explain the cause thereof: viz. that the bed of theEuxine is filled up and choked by the deposit of the rivers which flow into it; and its waters in consequence driven out into the neighbouring sea. The same theory he would apply in respect to the Mediterranean andAtlantic, alleging that the bed of the former is higher than that of the latter, in consequence of the number of rivers which flow into it, and the alluvium they carry along with them. In that case there ought to be a like influx at thePillars andCalpe, as there is atByzantium. But I waive this objection, as it might be asserted that the influx was the same in both places, but owing to the interference of the ebb and flow of the sea, became imperceptible.
§ 1.3.6 I rather make this inquiry: — If there were any reason why, before the outlet was opened atByzantium, the bed of theEuxine (being deeper than either that of thePropontis or of the adjoining sea) should not gradually have become more shallow by the deposit of the rivers which flow into it, allowing it formerly either to have been a sea, or merely a vast lake greater than thePalus Maeotis? This proposition being conceded, I would next ask, whether before this the bed of theEuxine would not have been brought to the same level as thePropontis, and in that case, the pressure being counterpoised, the overflowing of the water have been thus avoided; and if after theEuxine had been filled up, the superfluous waters would not naturally have forced a passage and flowed off, and by their commingling and power have caused theEuxine andPropontis to flow into each other, and thus become one sea? no matter, as I said above, whether formerly it were a sea or a lake, though latterly certainly a sea. This also being conceded, they must allow that the present efflux depends neither upon the elevation nor the inclination of the bed, asStrato's theory would have us consider it.
§ 1.3.7 We would apply the same arguments to the whole of the Mediterranean andAtlantic, and account for the efflux of the former, not by any [supposed] difference between the elevation and inclination of its bed and of that of theAtlantic, but attribute it to the number of rivers which empty themselves into it. Since, according to this supposition, it is not incredible that, had the whole of the Mediterranean Sea in times past been but a lake filled by the rivers, and having overflowed, it might have broken through the Strait at thePillars, as through a cataract; and still continuing to swell more and more, theAtlantic in course of time would have become confluent by that channel, and have run into one level, the Mediterranean thus becoming a sea. In fine, the Physician did wrong in comparing the sea to rivers, for the latter are borne down as a descending stream, but the sea always maintains its level. The currents of straits depend upon other causes, not upon the accumulation of earth formed by the alluvial deposit from rivers, filling up the bed of the sea. This accumulation only goes on at the mouths of rivers. Such are what are called the Stethe or Breasts at the mouth of theIster, the desert of theScythians, andSalmydessus, which are partially occasioned by other winter-torrents as well; witness the sandy, low, and even coast ofColchis, at the mouth of thePhasis, the whole of the coast ofThemiscyra, named the plain of theAmazons, near the mouths of theThermodon andIris, and the greater part ofSidene. It is the same with other rivers, they all resemble theNile in forming an alluvial deposit at their mouths, some more, some less than others. Those rivers which carry but little soil with them deposit least, while others, which traverse an extended and soft country, and receive many torrents in their course, deposit the greatest quantity. Such for example is the riverPyramus, by whichCilicia has been considerably augmented, and concerning which an oracle has declared, "This shall occur when the wide waters of thePyramus have enlarged their banks as far as sacredCyprus." This river becomes navigable from the middle of the plains ofCataonia, and enteringCilicia by the defiles of theTaurus, discharges itself into the sea which flows between that country and the island ofCyprus.
§ 1.3.8 These river deposits are prevented from advancing further into the sea by the regularity of the ebb and flow, which continually drive them back. For after the manner of living creatures, which go on inhaling and exhaling their breath continually, so the sea in a like way keeps up a constant motion in and out of itself. Any one may observe who stands on the sea-shore when the waves are in motion, the regularity with which they cover, then leave bare, and then again cover up his feet. This agitation of the sea produces a continual movement on its surface, which even when it is most tranquil has considerable force, and so throws all extraneous matters on to the land, and "Flings forth the salt weed on the shore." Iliad ix. 7. This effect is certainly most considerable when the wind is on the water, but it continues when all is hushed, and even when it blows from land the swell is still carried to the shore against the wind, as if by a peculiar motion of the sea itself. To this the verses refer — " O'er the rocks that breast the flood Borne turgid, scatter far the showery spray," Iliad iv. 425. and, "Loud sounds the roar of waves ejected wide." Iliad xvii. 265.
§ 1.3.9 The wave, as it advances, possesses a kind of power, which some call the purging of the sea, to eject all foreign substances. It is by this force that dead bodies and wrecks are cast on shore. But on retiring it does not possess sufficient power to carry back into the sea either dead bodies, wood, or even the lightest substances, such as cork, which may have been cast out by the waves. And by this means when places next the sea fall down, being undermined by the wave, the earth and the water charged with it are cast back again; and the weight [of the mud] working at the same time in conjunction with the force of the advancing tide, it is the sooner brought to settle at the bottom, instead of being carried out far into the sea. The force of the river current ceases at a very little distance beyond its mouth. Otherwise, supposing the rivers had an uninterrupted flow, by degrees the whole ocean would be filled in from the beach onwards, by the alluvial deposits. And this would be inevitable even were theEuxine deeper than the sea ofSardinia, than which a deeper sea has never been sounded, measuring, as it does, according toPosidonius, about 1000 fathoms.
§ 1.3.10 Some, however, may be disinclined to admit this explanation, and would rather have proof from things more manifest to the senses, and which seem to meet us at every turn. Now deluges, earthquakes, eruptions of wind, and risings in the bed of the sea, these things cause the rising of the ocean, as sinking of the bottom causes it to become lower. It is not the case that small volcanic or other islands can be raised up from the sea, and not large ones, nor that all islands can, but not continents, since extensive sinkings of the land no less than small ones have been known; witness the yawning of those chasms which have ingulfed whole districts no less than their cities, as is said to have happened toBura,Bizone, and many other towns at the time of earthquakes: and there is no more reason why one should rather thinkSicily to have been disjoined from the main-land ofItaly than cast up from the bottom of the sea by the fires ofAetna, as theLipari andPithecussan Isles have been.
§ 1.3.11 However, so nice a fellow isEratosthenes, that though he professes himself a mathematician, he rejects entirely the dictum ofArchimedes, who, in his work "On Bodies in Suspension," says that all liquids when left at rest assume a spherical form, having a centre of gravity similar to that of the earth. A dictum which is acknowledged by all who have the slightest pretensions to mathematical sagacity. He says that the Mediterranean, which, according to his own description, is one entire sea, has not the same level even at points quite close to each other; and offers us the authority of engineers for this piece of folly, notwithstanding the affirmation of mathematicians that engineering is itself only one division of the mathematics. He tells us thatDemetrius intended to cut through theIsthmus of Corinth, to open a passage for his fleet, but was prevented by his engineers, who, having taken measurements, reported that the level of the sea at theGulf of Corinth was higher than atCenchreae, so that if he cut through the isthmus, not only the coasts nearAigina, but evenAigina itself, with the neighbouring islands, would be laid completely under water, while the passage would prove of little value. According toEratosthenes, it is this which occasions the current in straits, especially the current in theStrait of Sicily, where effects similar to the flow and ebb of the tide are remarked. The current there changes twice in the course of a day and night, like as in that period the tides of the sea flow and ebb twice. In theTyrrhenian sea the current which is called descendent, and which runs towards the sea ofSicily, as if it followed an inclined plane, corresponds to the flow of the tide in the ocean. We may remark, that this current corresponds to the flow both in the time of its commencement and cessation. For it commences at the rising and setting of the moon, and recedes when that satellite attains its meridian, whether above [in the zenith] or below the earth [in the nadir]. In the same way occurs the opposite or ascending current, as it is called. It corresponds to the ebb of the ocean, and commences as soon as the moon has reached either zenith or nadir, and ceases the moment she reaches the point of her rising or setting. [So farEratosthenes.]
§ 1.3.12 The nature of the ebb and flow has been sufficiently treated of byPosidonius andAthenodorus. Concerning the flux and reflux of the currents, which also may be explained by physics, it will suffice our present purpose to observe, that in the various straits these do not resemble each other, but each strait has its own peculiar current. Were they to resemble each other,. the current at theStrait of Sicily would not change merely twice during the day, (asEratosthenes himself tells us it does,) and atChalcis seven times; nor again that ofConstantinople, which does not change at all, but runs always in one direction from theEuxine to thePropontis, and, asHipparchus tells us, sometimes ceases altogether. However, if they did all depend on one cause, it would not be that whichEratosthenes has assigned, namely, that the various seas have different levels. The kind of inequality he supposes would not even be found in rivers only for the cataracts; and where these cataracts occur, they occasion no ebbing, but have one continued downward flow, which is caused by the inclination both of the flow and the surface; and therefore though they have no flux or reflux they do not remain still, on account of a principle of flowing which is inherent in them; at the same time they cannot be on the same level, but one must be higher and one lower than another. But who ever imagined the surface of the ocean to be on a slope, especially those who follow a system which supposes the four bodies we call elementary, to be spherical. For water is not like the earth, which being of a solid nature is capable of permanent depressions and risings, but by its force of gravity spreads equally over the earth, and assumes that kind of level whichArchimedes has assigned it.
§ 1.3.13 To what we cited before concerning the sanctuary ofAmmon andEgypt,Eratosthenes adds, that to judge from appearances, MountCasius was formerly covered by sea, and the whole district now known asGerra lay under shoal water touching the bay of theErythraean Sea, but was left dry on the union of the [Mediterranean] Sea [with the ocean]. A certain amphibology lurks here under this description of the district lying under shoal water and touching the bay of theErythraean Sea; for to touch both means to be close to, and also to be in actual contact with, so that when applied to water it would signify that one flows into the other. I understand him to mean, that so long as the strait by thePillars of Hercules remained closed, these marshes covered with shoalwater extended as far as theArabian Gulf, but on that passage being forced open, the Mediterranean, discharging itself by the strait, became lower, and the land was left dry. On the other hand,Hipparchus understands by the term touching, that the Mediterranean, being over-full, flowed into theErythraean Sea, and he inquires how it could happen, that as the Mediterranean flowed out by this new vent at thePillars of Hercules, theErythraean Sea, which was all one with it, did not flow away too, and thus become lower, but has always retained the same level? and sinceEratosthenes supposes the whole exterior sea to be confluent, it follows that the Western Ocean and theErythraean Sea are all one; and thus [remarksHipparchus] as a necessary consequence, the sea beyond thePillars of Hercules, theErythraean Sea, and that also which is confluent with it, have all the same level.
§ 1.3.14 But,Eratosthenes would reply, I never said that, in consequence of the repletion of the Mediterranean, it actually flowed into theErythraean Sea, but only that it approached very near thereto: besides, it does not follow, that in one and the self-same sea, the level of its surface must be all the same; to instance the Mediterranean itself, no one, surely, will say it is of the same height atLechaion and atCenchreae. This answerHipparchus anticipated in his Critique; and being aware of the opinion ofEratosthenes, was justified in attacking his arguments. But he ought not to have taken it for granted, that whenEratosthenes said the exterior sea was all one, he necessarily implied that its level was every where the same.
§ 1.3.15 Hipparchus rejects as false the [account] of the inscription on thedolphins "by the delegates fromCyrene," but the reason he assigns for this is insufficient, viz. that thoughCyrene was built in times of which we have record, no one mentions the oracle, as being situated on the sea-shore. But what matters it that no historian has recorded this, when amongst the other proofs from which we infer that this place was formerly on the sea-shore, we number this of thedolphins which were set up, and the inscription, "by the delegates fromCyrene?"Hipparchus agrees that if the bottom of the sea were raised up, it would lift the water with it, and might therefore overflow the land as far as the locality of the oracle, or more than 3000 stadia from the shore; but he will not allow that the rising would be sufficient to overflow the Island ofPharos and the major portion ofEgypt, since [he says] the elevation would not be sufficient to submerge these. He alleges that if before the opening of the passage at thePillars of Hercules, the Mediterranean had been swollen to such an extent asEratosthenes affirms, the whole ofLibya, and the greater part of Europe andAsia, must long ago have been buried beneath its waves. Besides, he adds, in this case theEuxine would in certain places have been connected with theAdriatic, since in the vicinity of theEuxine, [near to its source,) theIster is divided in its course, and flows into either sea, owing to the peculiarities of the ground. To this we object, that theIster does not take its rise at all in the vicinity of theEuxine, but, on the contrary, beyond the mountains of theAdriatic; neither does it flow into both the seas, but into theEuxine alone, and only becomes divided just above its mouths. This latter, however, was an error into which he fell in common with many of his predecessors. They supposed that there was another river in addition to the formerIster, bearing the same name, which emptied itself into theAdriatic, and from which the country ofIstria, through which it flowed, gained that appellation. It was by this river they believedJason returned on his voyage fromColchis.
§ 1.3.16 In order to lessen surprise at such changes as we have mentioned as causes of the inundations and other similar phenomena which are supposed to have producedSicily, the islands ofAeolus, and thePithecussae, it may be as well to compare with these others of a similar nature, which either now are, or else have been observed in other localities. A large array of such facts placed at once before the eye would serve to allay our astonishment; while that which is uncommon startles our perception, and manifests our general ignorance of the occurrences which take place in nature and physical existence. For instance, supposing any one should narrate the circumstances concerningThera and the Therasian Islands, situated in the strait betweenCrete and theCyrenaic,Thera being itself the metropolis ofCyrene; or those [in connexion with]Egypt, and many parts of Greece. For midway betweenThera andTherasia flames rushed forth from the sea for the space of four days; causing the whole of it to boil and be all on fire; and after a little an island twelve stadia in circumference, composed of the burning mass, was thrown up, as if raised by machinery. After the cessation of this phenomenon, theRhodians, then masters of the sea, were the first who dared to sail to the place, and they built there on the island a sanctuary to the AsphalianNeptune.Posidonius remarks, that during an earthquake which occurred inPhoenicia, a city situated aboveSidon was swallowed up, and that nearly two-thirds ofSidon also fell, but not suddenly, and therefore with no great loss of life. That the same occurred, though in a lighter form, throughout nearly the whole ofSyria, and was felt even in some of theCyclades and the Island ofEuboea, so that the fountains ofArethusa, a spring inChalcis, were completely obstructed, and after some time forced for themselves another opening, and the whole island ceased not to experience shocks until a chasm was rent open in the earth in the plain ofLelanto, from which poured a river of burning mud.
§ 1.3.17 Many writers have recorded similar occurrences, but it will suffice us to narrate those which have been collected byDemetrius ofSkepsis. Apropos of that passage ofHomer: — "And now they reach'd the running rivulets clear, Where fromScamander's dizzy flood arise Two fountains, tepid one, from which a smoke Issues voluminous as from a fire, The other, even in summer heats, like hail For cold, or snow, or crystal stream frost-bound: "Iliad xxii. 147. this writer tells us we must not be surprised, that although the cold spring still remains, the hot cannot be discovered; and says we must reckon the failing of the hot spring as the cause. He goes on to relate certain catastrophes recorded byDemocles, how formerly in the reign ofTantalus there were great earthquakes inLydia andIonia as far as theTroad, which swallowed up whole villages and overturned MountSipylus; marshes then became lakes, and the city ofTroy was covered by the waters.Pharos, nearEgypt, which anciently was an island, may now be called a peninsula, and the same may be said ofTyre andClazomenae. During my stay atAlexandria inEgypt the sea rose so high nearPelusium and MountCasius as to overflow the land, and convert the mountain into an island, so that a journey fromCasius intoPhoenicia might have been undertaken by water. We should not be surprised therefore if in time to come the isthmus which separates theEgyptian sea from theErythraean Sea, should part asunder or subside, and becoming a strait, connect the outer and inner seas, similarly to what has taken place at the strait of thePillars. At the commencement of this work will be found some other narrations of a similar kind, which should be considered at the same time, and which will greatly tend to strengthen our belief both in these works of nature and also in its other changes.
§ 1.3.18 ThePiraeus having been formerly an island, and lying πέραν, or off the shore, is said to have thus received its name.Leucas, on the contrary, has been made an island by theCorinthians, who cut through the isthmus which connected it with the shore [of the mainland]. It is concerning this place thatLaertes is made to say, "Oh that I possessed Such vigour now as when in arms I tookNericus, continental city fair." Here man devoted his labour to make a separation, in other instances to the construction of moles and bridges. Such is that which connects the island opposite toSyracuse with the mainland. This junction is now effected by means of a bridge, but formerly, according toIbycus, by a pier of picked stones, which he calls elect. OfBura andHelice, one has been swallowed by an earthquake, the other covered by the waves. Near toMethone, which is on theHermionic Gulf, a mountain seven stadia in height was cast up during a fiery eruption; during the day it could not be approached on account of the heat and sulphureous smell; at night it emitted an agreeable odour, appeared brilliant at a distance, and was so hot that the sea boiled all around it to a distance of five stadia, and appeared in a state of agitation for twenty stadia, the heap being formed of fragments of rock as large as towers. BothArne andMideia have been buried in the waters of LakeCopais. These towns the Poet in hisCatalogue thus speaks of; "Arne claims a record next for her illustrious sons, Vine-bearingArne. Thou wast also thereMideia." Iliad 2.507. It seems that several Thracian cities have been submerged by the LakeBistonis, and that now called Aphnitis. Some also affirm that certain cities ofTrerus were also overwhelmed, in the neighbourhood ofThrace.Artemita, formerly one of theEchinades, is now part of the mainland; the same has happened to some other of the islets near theAchelous, occasioned, it is said, in the same way, by the alluvium carried into the sea by that river, andHesiod assures us that a like fate awaits them all. Some of theAetolian promontories were formerly islands. Asteria, called byHomerAsteris, is no longer what it was.
"There is a rocky isle
In the mid-sea, betweenSamos the rude
AndIthaca, not large, namedAsteris. It hath commodious havens, into which
A passage clear opens on either side." [Odyssey 4.844] There is no good anchorage there now. Neither is there inIthaca the cavern, nor yet the sanctuary of the nymphs described to us byHomer. It seems more correct to attribute this to change having come over the places, than either to the ignorance or the romancing of the poet. This however, being uncertain, must be left to every man's opinion.
§ 1.3.19 Myrsilus tells us thatAntissa was formerly an island, and so called because it was opposite toLesbos, then namedIssa. Now, however, it forms one of the towns ofLesbos. Some have believed thatLesbos itself has been disjoined from MountIda in the same way asProchytas andPithecussa fromMisenum,Capreae from theAthenaion,Sicily fromRhegium, andOssa fromOlympus. Many changes similar to these have occurred elsewhere. The riverLadon inArcadia ceased for some time its flow.Duris informs us that theRhagae inMedia gained that appellation from chasms made in the ground near theCaspian Gates by earthquakes, in which many cities and villages were destroyed, and the rivers underwent various changes.Ion, in his satirical composition ofOmphale, has said ofEuboea, "The light wave of theEuripus has divided the land ofEuboea fromBoeotia; separating the projecting land by a strait."
§ 1.3.20 Demetrius ofCallatis, speaking of the earthquakes which formerly occurred throughout the whole of Greece, states that a great portion of theLichadian Islands and ofKenaion were submerged; that the hot springs ofAedepsus andThermopylae were suppressed for three days, and that when they commenced to run again those ofAedepsus gushed from new fountains. That atOreus on the sea-coast the wall and nearly seven hundred houses fell at once. That the greater part ofEchinus,Phalara, andHeraclaea ofTrachis were thrown down,Phalara being overturned from its very foundations. That almost the same misfortune occurred to theLamians and inhabitants ofLarissa; thatScarpheia was overthrown from its foundations, not less than one thousand seven hundred persons being swallowed up, and atThronium more than half that number. That a torrent of water gushed forth taking three directions, one toScarphe andThronium, another toThermopylae, and a third to the plains ofDaphnus inPhocis. That the springs of [many] rivers were for several days dried up; that the course of theSperchius was changed, thus rendering navigable what formerly were highways; that theBoagrius flowed through another channel; that many parts ofAlope,Cynus, andOpus were injured, and the castle ofOeum, which commands the latter city, entirely overturned. That part of the wall ofElateia was thrown down; and that atAlponus, during the celebration of the games in honour ofCeres, twenty-five maidens, who had mounted a tower to enjoy the show exhibited in the port, were precipitated into the sea by the falling of the tower. They also record that a large fissure was made [by the water] through the midst of the island ofAtalanta, oppositeEuboea, sufficient for ships to sail in; that the course of the channel was in places as broad as twenty stadia between the plains; and that a trireme being raised [thereby] out of the docks, was carried over the walls.
§ 1.3.21 Those who desire to instill into us that more perfect freedom from [ignorant] wonder, whichDemocritus and all other philosophers so highly extol, should add the changes which have been produced by the migrations of various tribes: we should thus be inspired with courage, steadiness, and composure. For instance, the WesternIberians, removed to the regions beyond theEuxine andColchis, being separated fromArmenia, according toApollodorus, by theAraxes, but rather by theCyrus and Moschican mountains. The expedition of theEgyptians intoEthiopia andColchis. The migration of theHeneti, who passed fromPaphlagonia into the country bordering on theAdriatic Gulf. Similar emigrations were also undertaken by the nations of Greece, theIonians,Dorians,Achaians, andAeolians; and theAenians, now next neighbours to theAetolians, formerly dwelt nearDotium andOssa, beyond thePerrhaebi; thePerrhaebi too are but wanderers here themselves. Our present work furnishes numerous instances of the same kind. Some of these are familiar to most readers, but the migrations of theCarians, theTreres, the Teucrians, and theGalatae orGauls, are not so generally known. Nor yet for the most part are the expeditions of their chiefs, for instance,Madys theScythian, Tearko the Ethiopian, Cobus ofTrerus,Sesostris and Psammeticus theEgyptians; nor are those of thePersians fromCyrus toXerxes familiar to every one. TheKimmerians, or a separate tribe of them, called theTreres, have frequently overrun the countries to the right of theEuxine and those adjacent to them, bursting now intoPaphlagonia, now intoPhrygia, as they did when, according to report,Midas came to his death by drinkingbull's blood.Lygdamis led his followers intoLydia, passed throughIonia, tookSardis, but was slain inCilicia. TheKimmerians andTreres frequently made similar incursions, until at last, as it is reported, these latter, together with [their chief] Cobus, were driven out byMadys, king of the "Scythians." But enough has been said in this place on the general history of the earth, as each country will have a particular account.
§ 1.3.22 We must now return to the point whence we digressed.Herodotus having observed that there could be no such people asHyperborean, inasmuch as there were noHypernotii,Eratosthenes calls this argument ridiculous, and compares it to the sophism, that there are no epichaerekaki, inasmuch as there are no epichaeragathi; [adding] perhaps there areHypernotii; since at all events inEthiopiaNotus does not blow, although lower down it does. It would indeed be strange, since winds blow under every latitude, and especially the southern wind calledNotus, if any region could be found where this latter was not felt. On the contrary, not only doesEthiopia experience ourNotus, but also the whole country which lies above as far as the equator. IfHerodotus must be blamed at all, it is for supposing that theHyperboreans were so named in consequence ofBoreas, or the north wind, not blowing upon them. The poets are allowed much licence in their modes of expression; but their commentators, who endeavour always to give us the correct view, tell us that the people who dwelt in the extreme north, were styledHyperboreans. The pole is the boundary of the northern winds, and the equator of the southern; these winds have no other limit.
§ 1.3.23 Eratosthenes next finds fault with the writers who fill their narrative with stories evidently feigned and impossible; some as mere fable, but others as history, which did not deserve mention. In the discussion of a subject like his, he should not have wasted his time about such trifles. Such is the way in which this writer completes the First Book of his Memoirs.
§ 1.4.1 IN his Second BookEratosthenes endeavours to correct some errors in geography, and offers his own views on the subject, any mistakes in which we shall endeavour in our turn to set right. He is correct in saying that the inductions of mathematics and natural philosophy should be employed, and that if the earth is spheroidal like the universe, it is inhabited in all parts; together with some other things of this nature. Later writers do not agree with him as to the size of the earth, nor admit his measurement. HoweverHipparchus, when noting the celestial appearances for each particular locality, adopts his admeasurements, saying that those taken for the meridian ofMeroe,Alexandria, and theDnieper, differ but very slightly from the truth.Eratosthenes then enters into a long discussion concerning the figure of the globe, proving that the form of the earth together with the water is spheroidal, as also the heavens. This however we imagine was foreign to his purpose, and should have been disposed of in the compass of a few words.
§ 1.4.2 After this he proceeds to determine the breadth of the habitable earth: he tells us, that measuring from the meridian ofMeroe toAlexandria, there are 10,000 stadia. From thence to theHellespont about 8100. Again; from thence to theDnieper, 5000; and thence to the parallel ofThule, whichPytheas says is six days' sail north fromBritain, and near the Frozen Sea, other 11,500. To which if we add 3400 stadia aboveMeroe in order to include the Island of theEgyptians, the Cinnamon country, andTaprobane, there will be in all 38,000 stadia.
§ 1.4.3 We will let pass the rest of his distances, since they are something near, — but that theDnieper is under the same parallel asThule, what man in his senses could ever agree to this?Pytheas, who has given us the history ofThule, is known to be a man upon whom no reliance can be placed, and other writers who have seenBritain andIerne, although they tell us of many small islands roundBritain, make no mention whatever ofThule. The length ofBritain itself is nearly the same as that ofKeltica, opposite to which it extends. Altogether it is not more than 5000 stadia in length, its outermost points corresponding to those of the opposite continent. In fact the extreme points of the two countries lie opposite to each other, the eastern extremity to the eastern, and the western to the western: the eastern points are situated so close as to be within sight of each other, both at Kent and at the mouths of theRhine. ButPytheas tells us that the island [ofBritain] is more than 20,000 stadia in length, and that Kent is some days' sail from France. With regard to the locality of theOstimii, and the countries beyond theRhine, as far asScythia, he is altogether mistaken. The veracity of a writer who has been thus false in describing countries with which we are well acquainted, should not be too much trusted in regard to unknown places.
§ 1.4.4 Further,Hipparchus and many others are of opinion that the parallel of latitude of theDnieper does not differ from that ofBritain; since that ofByzantium andMarseilles are the same. The degree of shadow from the gnomon whichPytheas states he observed atMarseilles being exactly equal to that whichHipparchus says he found atByzantium; the periods of observation being in both cases similar. Now fromMarseilles to the centre ofBritain is not more than 5000 stadia; and if from the centre ofBritain we advance north not more than 4000 stadia, we arrive at a temperature in which it is scarcely possible to exist. Such indeed is that ofIerne. Consequently the far region in whichEratosthenes placesThule must be totally uninhabitable. By what guesswork he arrived at the conclusion that between the latitude ofThule and theDnieper there was a distance of 11,500 stadia I am unable to divine.
§ 1.4.5 Eratosthenes being mistaken as to the breadth [of the habitable earth], is necessarily wrong as to its length. The most accurate observers, both ancient and modern, agree that the known length of the habitable earth is more than twice its breadth. Its length I take to be from the [eastern] extremity ofIndia to the [westernmost] point of Spain; and its breadth from [the south of]Ethiopia to the latitude ofIerne.Eratosthenes, as we have said, reckoning its breadth from the extremity ofEthiopia toThule, was forced to extend its length beyond the true limits, that he might make it more than twice as long as the breadth he had assigned to it. He says thatIndia, measured where it is narrowest, is 16,000 stadia to the riverIndus. If measured from its most prominent capes it extends 3000 more. Thence to theCaspian Gates, 14,000. From theCaspian Gates to theEuphrates, 10,000. From theEuphrates to theNile, 5000. Thence to theCanopic mouth, 1300. From theCanopic mouth toCarthage, 13,500. From thence to thePillars at least 8000. Which make in all 70,800 stadia. To these [he says] should be added the curvature of Europe beyond thePillars of Hercules, fronting theIberians, and inclining west, not less than 3000 stadia, and the headlands, including that of theOstimii, named Cabaion, and the adjoining islands, the last of which, named Uxisama, is distant, according toPytheas, a three days' sail. But he added nothing to its length by enumerating these last, viz. the headlands, including that of theOstimii, the island of Uxisama, and the rest; they are not situated so as affect the length of the earth, for they all lie to the north, and belong toKeltica, not toIberia; indeed it seems but an invention ofPytheas. Lastly, to fall in with the general opinion that the breadth ought not to exceed half the length, he adds to the stated measure of its length 2000 stadia west, and as many east.
§ 1.4.6 Further, endeavouring to support the opinion that it is in accordance with natural philosophy to reckon the greatest dimension of the habitable earth from east to west, he says that, according to the laws of natural philosophy, the habitable earth ought to occupy a greater length from east to west, than its breadth from north to south. The temperate zone, which we have already designated as the longest zone, is that which the mathematicians denominate a continuous circle returning upon itself. So that if the extent of theAtlantic Ocean were not an obstacle, we might easily pass by sea fromIberia toIndia, still keeping in the same parallel; the remaining portion of which parallel, measured as above in stadia, occupies more than a third of the whole circle: since the parallel drawn throughAthens, on which we have taken the distances fromIndia toIberia, does not contain in the whole 200,000 stadia. Here too his reasoning is incorrect. For this speculation respecting the temperate zone which we inhabit, and whereof the habitable earth is a part, devolves properly on those who make mathematics their study. But it is not equally the province of one treating of the habitable earth. For by this term we mean only that portion of the temperate zone where we dwell, and with which we are acquainted. But it is quite possible that in the temperate zone there may be two or even more habitable earths, especially near the circle of latitude which is drawn throughAthens and theAtlantic Ocean. After this he returns to the form of the earth, which he again declares to be spheroidal. Here he exhibits the same churlishness we have previously pointed out, and goes on abusingHomer in his old style. He proceeds:
§ 1.4.7 "There has been much argument respecting the continents. Some, considering them to be divided by the riversNile andTanais, have described them as islands; while others suppose them to be peninsulas connected by the isthmuses between theCaspian and theEuxine Seas, and between theErythraean Sea andEcregma." He adds, that this question does not appear to him to be of any practical importance, but rather, asDemocritus observed, a bone of contention for angry litigants. Where there are no precise boundary marks, columns, or walls, as atColyttus andMelite, it is easy for us to say such a place isColyttus, and such anotherMelite, but not so easy to show the exact limits: thus disputes have frequently arisen concerning certain districts; that, for instance, between theArgives andLacedemonians concerning [the possession of]Thyrea, and that between theAthenians andBoeotians relative toOropus. Further, in giving names to the three continents, the Greeks did not take into consideration the whole habitable earth, but merely their own country and the land exactly opposite, namely,Caria, which is now inhabited by theIonians and other neighbouring tribes. In course of time, as they advanced further and daily became acquainted with new countries, this their division came to be general." I take this last part first, and (to useEratosthenes' own words, not those ofDemocritus) willing to pick my bone of contention, inquire, whether they who first made the division of the three continents were the same persons as those who first desired to distinguish their own land from that of theCarians opposite, or whether they were only acquainted with Greece,Caria, and some few other adjoining countries, and not with Europe,Asia, or Africa; but that others who followed them, and were able to write a description of the habitable earth, were the real authors of the division into three continents. How did he know that these were not the men who made this division of the habitable earth? And he who divided the earth into three parts, giving to each portion the name of "continent," could he not form in his mind a just idea of that taken as a whole, which he had so parcelled out. But if indeed he were not acquainted with the whole habitable earth, but merely made a division of some part thereof, pray what portion of that part did he denominateAsia, or Europe, or simply continent? Such talk is altogether nonsense.
§ 1.4.8 The reasoning ofEratosthenes, however, is still more absurd, when he declares that he sees no advantage in being acquainted with the exact boundaries of countries, and then cites the example ofColyttus andMelite, which prove just the contrary of his assertion. Surely if a want of certainty respecting the boundaries ofThyrea andOropus gave rise to war, a knowledge of the limits of different districts must be of practical importance. Will he tell us that the boundaries of districts, or the limits of kingdoms, may be of some service, but when applied to continents it is carrying the matter too far. We reply, it is of equal consequence here. Suppose a dispute between two powerful princes, one claiming the possession ofAsia and the other of Africa, to which of these shouldEgypt, I mean the country called LowerEgypt, appertain. Will any one paws over such cases on account of their rarity? By no means. It is acknowledged by every one that the limits of each continent ought to be defined by some notable boundary, indicated by the configuration of the whole habitable earth. In following out this principle, we should not be very particular if they who determine boundaries by the rivers leave some districts undefined, since the rivers do not reach from sea to sea, nor leave the continents altogether as islands.
§ 1.4.9 At the close of the bookEratosthenes blames the system of those who would divide all mankind into Greeks and Barbarians, and likewise those who recommendedAlexander to treat the Greeks as friends, but the Barbarians as enemies. He suggests, as a better course, to distinguish them according to their virtues and their vices, "since amongst the Greeks there are many worthless characters, and many highly civilized are to be found amongst the Barbarians; witness theIndians andAriani, or still better the Romans andCarthaginians, whose political system is so beautifully perfect.Alexander, considering this, disregarded the advice which had been offered him, and patronized without distinction any man he considered to be deserving." But we would inquire whether those men who thus divided the human race, abandoning one portion to contempt, and exalting to dignity the other, were not actuated to this because they found that on one side justice, knowledge, and the force of reason reigned supreme, but their contraries on the other.Alexander did not disregard the advice tendered him, but gladly embraced and followed it, respecting the wisdom of those who gave it; and so far from taking the opposite course, he closely pursued that which they pointed out.
§ 2.1.1 IN the Third Book of his GeographyEratosthenes furnishes us with a chart of the habitable earth. This he divides into two portions, by a line running from east to west parallel to the equator. He makes thePillars of Hercules the boundary of this line to the west, and to the east the farthest ridges of those mountains which boundIndia on the north. From thePillars he draws the line through theStrait of Sicily, and the southern extremities ofPeloponnesus andAttica, toRhodes and theGulf of Issos. He says, "Through the whole of this distance the line mentioned is drawn across the sea and adjacent continents; the whole length of the Mediterranean as far asCilicia extending in that direction. Thence it runs nearly in a straight line along the whole chain of theTaurus toIndia. TheTaurus continuing in a straight line from thePillars dividesAsia through its whole length into two halves, north and south. So that both theTaurus and the sea from thePillars hither lie under the parallel ofAthens."
§ 2.1.2 He then declares that the ancient geographical chart wants revision; that in it the eastern portion of theTaurus is made to run too far north,India itself being also too much drawn in the same direction. One proof which he offers in support of this is, that the most southern extremities ofIndia are under the same latitude asMeroe, as attested by many, both from astronomical observations and the temperature of the climate. From thence to the most northerly point by the mountains of theCaucasus, there are 15,000 stadia, according toPatrocles, a writer whom we are bound to believe, both on account of his worth, and the vast amount of his geographical attainments. Now since the distance fromMeroe to the parallel ofAthens is nearly the same, the most northerly points ofIndia next to theCaucasian mountains ought to be under the same degree of latitude.
§ 2.1.3 But there is another method (saysEratosthenes) of proving this. The distance from theGulf of Issos to theEuxine, proceeding in a northerly direction towardsAmisus andSinope, is about 3000 stadia, which is as much as the supposed extent of the mountains [of theTaurus]. The traveller who directs his course fromAmisus due east, arrives first atColchis, then at the high lands by theHyrcanian Sea, afterwards at the road leading toBactra, and beyond to theScythians; having the mountains always on the right. The same line drawn throughAmisus westward, crosses thePropontis andHellespont. FromMeroe to theHellespont there are not more than 18,000 stadia. The distance is just the same from the southern extremity ofIndia to the land ofBactria, if we add to the 15,000 stadia of that country the 3000 which its mountains occupy in breadth.
§ 2.1.4 Hipparchus tries to invalidate this view ofEratosthenes, by sneering at the proofs on which it rests.Patrocles, he says, merits little credit, being contradicted by the two writersDeimachus andMegasthenes, who say that the distance taken from the southern ocean, is in some places 20,000, in others 30,000 stadia; that in this assertion they are supported by the ancient charts, and he considers it absurd to require us to put implicit faith inPatrocles alone, when there is so much testimony against him; or that the ancient charts should be corrected; but rather that they should be left as they are until we have something more certain on the subject.
§ 2.1.5 This argument, I think, is in many instances unfounded.Eratosthenes availed himself of the statements of many writers, althoughHipparchus alleges he was solely led byPatrocles. Who then are the authors of the statement that the southern extremity ofIndia is under the same parallel asMeroe; and who are they who estimate the distance fromMeroe to the parallel passing throughAthens? Or who, again, were those who asserted that the whole breadth occupied by the mountains was equal to the distance fromCilicia toAmisus? Or who made known that, travelling fromAmisus, the course lay in a straight line due east throughColchis, the [sea of]Hyrcania, so on toBactria, and beyond this to the eastern ocean, the mountains being always on the right hand; and that this same line carried west in a straight line, traverses thePropontis and theHellespont? These thingsEratosthenes advances on the testimony of men who had been on the spot, and from the study of those numerous memoirs which he had for reference in that noble library whichHipparchus himself acknowledges to be gigantic.
§ 2.1.6 Besides, the credibility ofPatrocles can be proved by a variety of evidence — the princes who confided to him so important trusts — the authors who follow his statements — and those, too, who criticise them, whose namesHipparchus has recorded. Since whenever these are refuted, the credit ofPatrocles is by so much advanced. Nor doesPatrocles appear to state any thing improbable when he says that the army ofAlexander took but a very hasty view of every thing [inIndia], butAlexander himself a more exact one, causing the whole country to be described by men well acquainted with it. Which description he says was afterwards put into his hands byXenocles the treasurer.
§ 2.1.7 Again, in the second volume of his Commentaries,Hipparchus accusesEratosthenes of himself throwing discredit on the statement ofPatrocles, on account of his differing withMegasthenes, as to the length ofIndia on its northern side;Megasthenes stating the length at 16,000 stadia, andPatrocles at 1000 less. Being biassed by a certain Itinerary,Eratosthenes was led to reject them both on account of this discrepancy, and to follow the Itinerary. If then merely the difference of 1000 stadia is sufficient to cause the authority ofPatrocles to be rejected, how much more should this be the case when we find a difference of 8000 stadia between his statement and that of two writers who agree perfectly in theirs, that the breadth ofIndia is 20,000 stadia, while he gives only 12,000!
§ 2.1.8 We reply, that [Eratosthenes] did not object [to the statement ofPatrocles] merely because it differed [from that ofMegasthenes], but because the statement of this latter as to the stadia was confirmed by the Itinerary, an authority of no mean importance. There is nothing wonderful in this, that though a certain statement may be credible, another may be more credible; and that while in some instances we follow the former, in others we may dissent from it on finding a more trust-worthy guide. It is ridiculous to say that the greater the difference of one writer from others, the less he should be trusted. On the contrary, such a rule would be more applicable in regard to small differences; for in little particulars the ordinary observer and the man of great ability are equally liable to err. On the other hand, in great matters, the ordinary run of men are more like to be deceived than the man of superior talent, to whom consequently in such cases greater deference is paid.
§ 2.1.9 Generally speaking, the men who hitherto have written on the affairs ofIndia, were a set of liars.Deimachus holds the first place in the list,Megasthenes comes next, whileOnesicritus andNearchus, with others of the same class, manage to stammer out a few words [of truth]. Of this we became the more convinced whilst writing the history ofAlexander. No faith whatever can be placed inDeimachus andMegasthenes. They coined the fables concerning men with ears large enough to sleep in, men without any mouths, without noses, with only one eye, withspider-legs, and with fingers bent backward. They renewedHomer's fable concerning thebattles of the Cranes andPygmies, and asserted the latter to be three spans high. They told of ants digging for gold, of Pans with wedge-shaped heads, ofserpents swallowing downoxen and stags, horns and all; meantime, asEratosthenes has observed, reciprocally accusing each other of falsehood. Both of these men were sent ambassadors toPalimbothra, —Megasthenes toSandrocottus,Deimachus to Allitrochades his son; and such are the notes of their residence abroad, which, I know not why, they thought fit to leave.Patrocles certainly does not resemble them; nor do any other of the authorities consulted byEratosthenes contain such absurdities.
§ 2.1.10 If the meridian ofRhodes andByzantium has been rightly determined to be the same, then that ofCilicia andAmisus has likewise been rightly determined; many observations having proved that the lines are parallel, and that they never impinge on each other.
§ 2.1.11 In like manner, that the voyage fromAmisus toColchis, and the route to theCaspian, and thence on toBactra, are both due east, is proved by the winds, the seasons, the fruits, and even the sun-risings. Frequently evidence such as this, and general agreement, are more to be relied on than the measurement taken by means of instruments.Hipparchus himself was not wholly indebted to instruments and geometrical calculations for his statement that thePillars andCilicia lie in a direct line due east. For that part of it included between thePillars and theStrait of Sicily he rests entirely on the assertion of sailors. It is therefore incorrect to say that, because we cannot exactly determine the duration of the longest and shortest days, nor the degree of shadow of the gnomon throughout the mountainous region betweenCilicia andIndia, that therefore we are unable to decide whether the line traced obliquely on the ancient charts should or should not be parallel, and consequently must leave it unreformed, keeping it oblique as the ancient charts have it. For in the first place, not to determine any thing is to leave it undetermined; and to leave a thing undetermined, is neither to take one view of the matter nor the other: but to agree to leave it as the ancients have, that is to take a view of the case. It would have been more consistent with his reasoning, if he had told us to leave Geography alone altogether, since we are similarly unable to determine the position of theAlps, thePyrenees, and the mountains ofThrace,Illyria, andGermania. Wherefore should we give more credit to the ancient writers than to the modern, when we call to mind the numerous errors of their charts which have been pointed out byEratosthenes, and whichHipparchus has not attempted to defend.
§ 2.1.12 But the system ofHipparchus altogether teems with difficulties. Reflect for an instant on the following absurdity; after admitting that the southern extremity ofIndia is under the same degree of latitude asMeroe, and that the distance fromMeroe to the Strait ofByzantium is about 18,000 stadia, lie then makes the distance from the southern extremity ofIndia to the mountains 30,000 stadia. SinceByzantium andMarseilles are under the same parallel of latitude, asHipparchus tells us they are, on the authority ofPytheas, and sinceByzantium and theDnieper have also the same meridian, asHipparchus equally assures us, if we take his assertion that there is a distance of 3700 stadia betweenByzantium and theDnieper, there will of course be a like difference between the latitude ofMarseilles and theDnieper. This would make the latitude of theDnieper identical with that ofKeltica next the Ocean; for on proceeding 3700 stadia [north ofMarseilles ], we reach the ocean.
§ 2.1.13 Again, we know that the Cinnamon Country is the most southerly point of the habitable earth. According toHipparchus's own statement, the latitude of this country, which marks the commencement of the temperate zone, and likewise of the habitable earth, is distant from the equator about 8800 stadia. And since he likewise says that from the equator to the parallel of theDnieper there are 34,000 stadia, there will remain a distance of 25,200 stadia between the parallel of theDnieper (which is the same as that which passes over the side ofKeltica next the Ocean) to that which separates the torrid from the temperate zone. It is said that the farthest voyages now made north ofKeltica are toIerne, which lies beyondBritain, and, on account of its extreme cold, barely sustains life; beyond this it is thought to be uninhabitable. Now the distance betweenKeltica andIerne is estimated at not more than 5000 stadia; so that on this view they must have estimated the whole breadth of the habitable earth at 30,000 stadia, or just above.
§ 2.1.14 Let us then transport ourselves to the land opposite the Cinnamon Country, and lying to the east under the same parallel of latitude; we shall there find the country namedTaprobane. ThisTaprobane is universally believed to be a large island situated in the high seas, and lying to the south oppositeIndia. Its length in the direction ofEthiopia is above 5000 stadia, as they say. There are brought from thence to theIndian markets, ivory, tortoise-shells, and other wares in large quantities. Now if this island is broad in proportion to its length, we cannot suppose that the whole distance, inclusive of the space which separates it fromIndia, is less than 3000 stadia, which is equal to the distance of the southern extremity of the habitable earth fromMeroe, since the [southern] extremities ofIndia andMeroe are under the same parallel. It is likely there are more than 3000 stadia, but taking this number, if we add thereto the 30,000 stadia, whichDeimachus states there are between [the southern extremity ofIndia] and the country of theBactrians andSogdians, we shall find both of these nations lie beyond the temperate zone and habitable earth. Who will venture to affirm such to be the case, hearing, as they must, the statement made both by ancients and moderns of the genial climate and fertility of northernIndia,Hyrcania,Aria,Margiana, andBactriana also? These countries are all equally close to the northern side of theTaurus,Bactriana being contiguous to that part of the chain which forms the boundary ofIndia. A country blessed with such advantages must be very far from uninhabitable. It is said that inHyrcania each vine produces a metrete of wine, and each fig tree 60 medimni of fruit. That the grains of wheat which fall from the husk on to the earth spring up the year following; thatbee-hives are in the trees, and the leaves flow with honey. The same may be met with in the part ofMedia calledMatiana, and also in Sacasena and Araxena, countries ofArmenia. In these three it is not so much to be wondered at, since they lie more to the south thanHyrcania, and surpass the rest of the country in the beauty of their climate; but inHyrcania it is more remarkable. It is said that inMargiana you may frequently meet with a vine whose stock would require two men with outstretched arms to clasp it, and clusters of grapes two cubits long.Aria is described as similarly fertile, the wine being still richer, and keeping perfectly for three generations in unpitched casks.Bactriana, which adjoinsAria, abounds in the same productions, if we except olives.
§ 2.1.15 That there are cold regions in the high and mountainous parts of these countries is not to be wondered at; since in the [more] southern climates the mountains, and even the tablelands, are cold. The districts next theEuxine, inCappadocia, are much farther north than those adjoining theTaurus. Bagadania, a vast plain, situated between the mountains ofArgaeus andTaurus, hardly produces any fruit trees, although south of theEuxine Sea by 3000 stadia; while the territory roundSinope,Amisus, andPhanaroea abounds in olives. TheOxus, which dividesBactriana fromSogdiana, is said to be of such easy navigation that the wares ofIndia are brought up it into the sea ofHyrcania, and thence successively by various other rivers to the districts near theEuxine.
§ 2.1.16 Can one find any fertility to compare with this near to theDnieper, or that part ofKeltica next the ocean, where the vine either does not grow at all, or attains no maturity. However, in the more southerly portions of these districts, close to the sea, and those next theBosphorus, the vine brings its fruit to maturity, although the grapes are exceedingly small, and the vines are covered up all the winter. And in the parts near the mouth of thePalus Maeotis, the frost is so strong that a general ofMithridates defeated the barbarians here in a cavalry engagement during the winter, and on the very same spot in a naval fight in summer, when the ice was thawed.Eratosthenes furnishes us with the following inscription, which he found in the sanctuary ofAesculapius atPanticapaion, on a brazen vase which had been broken by the frost: — "If any one doubts the intensity of our winter's cold, let him believe when he sees this vase. The priestStratius placed it here, not because he considered it a worthy offering to the god, but as a proof of the severity of our winter." Since therefore the provinces we have just enumerated [are so superior in climate, that they] cannot be compared with the countries surrounding theBosphorus, nor even the regions ofAmisus andSinope, (for every one will admit that they are much superior to these latter,) it would be idle to compare them with the districts near theBorysthenes and the north ofKeltica; for we have shown that their temperature is not so low asAmisus,Sinope,Byzantium, andMarseilles, which are universally acknowledged to be 3700 stadia south of theDnieper andKeltica.
§ 2.1.17 If the followers ofDeimachus add to the 30.000 stadia the distance toTaprobane and the boundaries of the torrid zone, which cannot be reckoned less than 4000 stadia, they will then removeBactria andAria from their actual localities and place them 34,000 stadia from the torrid zone, a distance equal to that whichHipparchus states to be between the equator and [the mouth of] theDnieper, and the two countries will therefore be removed 8800 stadia north of [the mouth of] theDnieper andKeltica; for there are reckoned to be 8800 stadia from the equator to the parallel of latitude which separates the temperate from the torrid zone, and which crosses the Cinnamon Country. We have proved that the regions not more than 5000 stadia north ofKeltica, as far asIerne, are scarcely habitable, but their reasoning leads to the conclusion that there is another circle fitted for the habitation of man, although 3800 stadia north ofIerne. And thatBactra is still farther north than the mouth of theCaspian orHyrcanian Sea, which is distant about 6000 stadia from the recess of theCaspian and the mountains ofArmenia andMedia, and which appears to be the most northerly point of the whole coast as far asIndia, with a sea navigable toIndia all the way, asPatrocles, who had the government of these regions, affirms. NowBactriana stretches 1000 stadia farther north. Beyond this theScythians occupy a much larger territory, bounded by the Northern Ocean: here they dwell, though to be sure theirs is a nomade life. But we ask how they could exist here at all, supposing evenBactra to be beyond the limits of the habitable globe. The distance from theCaucasus to the Northern Sea throughBactra would be rather more than 4000 stadia. This being added to the number of stadia north ofIerne above-mentioned, will give us the whole amount of uninhabitable land fromIerne northward 7800 stadia, and even omitting the 4000 stadia altogether, those parts ofBactriana next theCaucasus will still be 3800 stadia farther north thanIerne, and 8800 farther north thanKeltica, and [the mouth] of theDnieper.
§ 2.1.18 Hipparchus narrates that at theDnieper and [the north of]Keltica, during the whole of the summer nights there is one continued twilight from sun-set to sun-rise, but at the winter solstice the sun never rises more than nine cubits above the horizon. He adds that this phenomenon is yet more remarkable in regions 6300 stadia north ofMarseilles, (these regions he supposes to be peopled byKelts, but I believe are inhabited byBritons, and 2500 stadia north ofKeltica,) where the sun at the winter solstice rises only six cubits above the horizon. That at 9100 stadia north ofMarseilles it only rises four cubits, and not so much as three in the countries beyond, and which I consider much farther north thanIerne. However,Hipparchus, on the authority ofPytheas, places them south ofBritain, and says that the longest day there consists only of 19 hours; while in countries where the sun rises but four cubits above the horizon, and which are situated 9100 stadia north ofMarseilles, the day has 18 hours. Consequently [according to his hypothesis] the most southerly parts ofBritain must be north of these regions. They must therefore be under the same parallel, or almost the same, as the parts ofBactriana next to theCaucasus, which I have shown are, according to the followers ofDeimachus, 3800 stadia farther north thanIerne. Now if we add this to the number betweenMarseilles andIerne, we shall get 12,500 stadia. But who ever made known to us that, in those parts, I mean, in the vicinity ofBactra, this was the duration of the longest day, or the height which the sun attains in the meridian at the winter solstice? All these things are patent to the eyes of every man, and require no mathematical investigation; therefore they certainly would have been mentioned by numerous writers both amongst the ancients who have left us histories ofPersia, and by the later writers too, who have carried them down to our own time. How, too, would their fertility, which I have described above, harmonize with such a latitude? The facts here advanced are sufficient to give an idea of the learned manner in whichHipparchus attempts to controvert the reasoning ofEratosthenes by mere petitiones principii.
§ 2.1.19 Again,Eratosthenes wished to show the ignorance ofDeimachus, and his want of information concerning such matters, as proved by his assertion thatIndia lies between the autumnal equinox and winter tropic. Also in his blamingMegasthenes, where he says that in the southern parts ofIndia the Greater and Lesser Bear are seen to set, and the shadows to fall both ways; assuring us that such is not the case inIndia. These assertions, saysEratosthenes, arise from the ignorance ofDeimachus. For it is nothing else than ignorance to suppose that the autumnal equinox is not equally distant from the tropics with the vernal; since in both equinoxes the sun rises at the same point, and performs a similar revolution. Further, [he continues, ] the distance from the terrestrial tropic to the equator, between which, according toDeimachus himself,India is situated, has been proved by measurement to be much less than 20,000 stadia, consequently his own statements prove that my assertion is correct, and not his. For supposingIndia to be twenty or thirty thousand stadia [in breadth] it could not be contained in the given space, but if my estimate be taken it is simple enough. It is another evidence of his want of information, to say that the two Bears are not seen to set, or the shadows to fall both ways, in any part ofIndia, since 5000 stadia south ofAlexandria both of these phenomena are observable. Thus reasonsEratosthenes; whomHipparchus again criticises in the same mistaken way. First he substitutes [in the text ofDeimachus] the summer in place of the winter tropic; then he says that the evidence of a man ignorant of astronomy ought not to be received in a mathematical question; as ifEratosthenes in the main had actually been guided by the authority ofDeimachus. Could he not see thatEratosthenes had followed the general custom in regard to idle reasoners, one means of refuting whom is to show that their arguments, whatever they may be, go only to confirm our views.
§ 2.1.20 It is by assuming as a fact that the southern extremity ofIndia is under the same parallel asMeroe, a thing affirmed and believed by most writers, that we shall be best able to show the absurdities of the system ofHipparchus. In the first book of his Commentaries he does not object to this hypothesis, but in the second book he no longer admits it; we must examine his reasons for this. He says, "when two countries are situated under the same parallel, but separated by a great distance, you cannot be certain that they are exactly under the same parallel, unless the climata of both the places are found to be similar. NowPhilo, in his account of a voyage by sea toEthiopia, has given us the clima ofMeroe. He says that at that place the sun is vertical forty-five days before the summer solstice, he also informs us of the proportion of shadow thrown by the gnomon both at the equinoxes and solstices.Eratosthenes agrees almost exactly withPhilo. But not a single writer, not evenEratosthenes, has informed us of the clima ofIndia; but if it is the case, as many are inclined to believe on the authority ofNearchus, that the two Bears are seen to set in that country, then certainlyMeroe and the southern extremity ofIndia cannot be under the same parallel." [Such is the reasoning ofHipparchus, but we reply, ] IfEratosthenes confirms the statement of those authors who tell us that inIndia the two Bears are observed to set, how can it be said that not a single person, not evenEratosthenes, has informed us of any thing concerning the clima ofIndia? This is itself information on that point. If, however, he has not confirmed this statement, let him be exonerated from the error. Certain it is he never did confirm the statement. Only whenDeimachus affirmed that there was no place inIndia from which the two Bears might be seen to set, or the shadows fall both ways, asMegasthenes had asserted,Eratosthenes thereupon taxed him with ignorance, regarding as absolutely false this two-fold assertion, one half of which, namely, that concerning the shadows not falling both ways,Hipparchus himself acknowledged to be false; for if the southern extremity ofIndia were not under the same parallel asMeroe, stillHipparchus appears to have considered it south ofSyene.
§ 2.1.21 In the instances which follow,Hipparchus, treating of these subjects, either asserts things similar to those which we have already refuted, or takes for granted matters which are not so, or draws improper sequences. For instance, from the computation [ofEratosthenes] that the distance fromBabylon toThapsacus is 4800 stadia, and thence northward to the mountains ofArmenia 2100 stadia more, it does not follow that, starting from the meridian of that city, the distance to the northern mountains is above 6000 stadia. Besides,Eratosthenes never says that the distance fromThapsacus to these mountains is 2100 stadia, but that a part thereof has never yet been measured; so that this argument [ofHipparchus], founded on a false hypothesis, amounts to nothing. Nor didEratosthenes ever assert thatThapsacus lies more than 4500 stadia north ofBabylon.
§ 2.1.22 Again,Hipparchus, ever anxious to defend the [accuracy of the] ancient charts, instead of fairly stating the words ofEratosthenes concerning his third section of the habitable earth, wilfully makes him the author of an assertion easy of disproof. ForEratosthenes, following the opinion we before mentioned, that a line drawn from thePillars of Hercules across the Mediterranean, and the length of theTaurus, would run due west and east, divides, by means of this line, the habitable earth into two portions, which he calls the northern and southern divisions; each of these he again essays to subdivide into as many smaller partitions as practicable, which he denominates sections. He makesIndia the first section of the southern part, andAriana the second; these two countries possessing a good outline, he has been able not only to give us an accurate statement of their length and breadth, but an almost geometrically exact description of their figure. He tells us that the form ofIndia is rhomboidal, being washed on two of its sides by the southern and eastern oceans [respectively], which do not deeply indent its shores, The two remaining sides are contained by its mountains and the river [Indus], so that it presents a kind of rectilinear figure. As toAriana, he considered three of its sides well fitted to form a parallelogram; but of the western side he could give no regular definition, as it was inhabited by various nations; nevertheless he attempts an idea of it by a line drawn from theCaspian Gates to the limits ofCarmania, which border on thePersian Gulf. This side he calls western, and that next theIndus eastern, but he does not tell us they are parallel to each other; neither does he say this of the other sides, one bounded by the mountains, and the other by the sea; he simply calls them north and south.
§ 2.1.23 Having in this manner but imperfectly traced the outlines of his second section, the third section, for various reasons, is still less exact. The first cause has been already explained, viz. that the line from theCaspian Gates toCarmania is not clearly defined, as the side of the section is common both to the third and second sections. Secondly, on account of thePersian Gulf interrupting the continuity of the southern side, as he himself tells us, he has been obliged to take the measured road running throughSusa andPersepolis to the boundaries ofCarmania andPersia, and suppose it straight. This road, which he calls the southern side, is a little more than 9000 stadia. He does not, however, tell us, that it runs parallel to the northern side. It is also clear that theEuphrates, which he makes the western boundary, is any thing but a straight line. On leaving the mountains it flows south, but soon shifts its course to the east; it then again pursues a southerly direction till it reaches the sea. In fact,Eratosthenes himself acknowledges the indirect course of this river, when he compares the shape ofMesopotamia, which is formed by the junction of theTigris andEuphrates, to the cushion on a rower's bench. The western side bounded by theEuphrates is not entirely measured; for he tells us that he does not know the extent of the portion betweenArmenia and the northern mountains, as it has not been measured. By reason of these hinderances he states that he has been only able to give a very superficial view of the third section, and that his estimate of the distances is borrowed from various Itineraries, some of them, according to his own description, anonymous.Hipparchus therefore must be considered guilty of unfairness, for criticising with geometrical precision a work of this general nature. We ought rather to be grateful to a person who gives us any description at all of the character of such [unknown] places. But when he urges his geometrical objections not against any real statement ofEratosthenes, but merely against imaginary hypotheses of his own creation, he shows too plainly the contradictory bent of his mind.
§ 2.1.24 It is in this general kind of description of the third section thatEratosthenes supposes 10,000 stadia from theCaspian Gates to theEuphrates. This he again divides according to former admeasurements which he found preserved. Starting from the point where theEuphrates passes near toThapsacus, he computes from thence to the place whereAlexander crossed theTigris 2400 stadia. The route thence throughGaugamela, theLycus,Arbela, andEcbatana, whitherDarius fled fromGaugamela to theCaspian Gates, makes up the 10,000 stadia, which is only 300 stadia too much. Such is the measure of the northern side given byEratosthenes, which he could not have supposed to be parallel to the mountains, nor yet to the line drawn from thePillars of Hercules throughAthens andRhodes. ForThapsacus is far removed from the mountains, and the route fromThapsacus to theCaspian Gates only falls in with the mountains at that point. Such is the boundary on the northern side.
§ 2.1.25 Thus, saysEratosthenes, we have given you a description of the northern side; as for the southern, we cannot take its measure along the sea, on account of thePersian Gulf, which intercepts [its continuity], but fromBabylon throughSusa andPersepolis to the confines ofPersia andCarmania there are 9200 stadia. This he calls the southern side, but he does not say it is parallel to the northern. The difference of length between the northern and southern sides is caused, he tells us, by theEuphrates, which after running south some distance shifts its course almost due east.
§ 2.1.26 Of the two remaining sides, he describes the western first, but whether we are to regard it as one single straight line, or two, seems to be undecided. He says, — FromThapsacus toBabylon, following the course of theEuphrates, there are 4800 stadia; from thence to the mouth of theEuphrates and the city ofTeredon, 3000 more; fromThapsacus northward to theGates ofArmenia, having been measured, is stated to be 1100 stadia, but the distance throughGordyaea andArmenia, not having yet been measured, is not given. The eastern side, which stretches lengthwise throughPersia from theRed Sea towardsMedia and the north, does not appear to be less than 8000 stadia, and measured from certain headlands above 9000, the rest of the distance through Paraetacena andMedia to theCaspian Gates being 3000 stadia. The riversTigris andEuphrates flowing fromArmenia towards the south, after having passed the Gordytaean mountains, and having formed a great circle which embraces the vast country ofMesopotamia, turn towards the rising of the sun in winter and the south, particularly theEuphrates, which, continually approaching nearer and nearer to theTigris, passes by the rampart ofSemiramis, and at about 200 stadia from the village ofOpis, thence it flows throughBabylon, and so discharges itself into thePersian Gulf. Thus the figure ofMesopotamia andBabylon resembles the cushion of a rower's bench. — Such are the words ofEratosthenes.
§ 2.1.27 In the Third Section it is true he does make some mistakes, which we shall take into consideration; but they are nothing like the amount whichHipparchus attributes to him. However, we will examine his objections. [In the first place,] he would have the ancient charts left just as they are, and by no meansIndia brought more to the south, asEratosthenes thinks proper. Indeed, he asserts that the very arguments adduced by that writer only confirm him the more in his opinion. He says, "According toEratosthenes, the northern side of the third section is bounded by a line of 10,000 stadia drawn from theCaspian Gates to theEuphrates, the southern side fromBabylon to the confines ofCarmania is a little more than 9000 stadia. On the western side, following the course of theEuphrates, fromThapsacus toBabylon there are 4800 stadia, and thence to the outlets of the river 3000 stadia more. Northward fromThapsacus [to the Gates ofArmenia] is reckoned 1100 stadia; the rest has not been measured. Now sinceEratosthenes says that the northern side of this Third Section is about 10,000 stadia, and that the right line parallel thereto drawn fromBabylon to the eastern side is computed at just above 9000 stadia, it follows thatBabylon is not much more than 1000 stadia east of the passage of [theEuphrates] nearThapsacus."
§ 2.1.28 We answer, that if theCaspian Gates and the boundary line ofCarmania andPersia were exactly under the same meridian, and if right lines drawn in the direction ofThapsacus andBabylon would intersect such meridian at right angles, the inference would be just. For then the line [from the common frontier ofCarmania andPersia] toBabylon if produced to the meridian ofThapsacus, would appear to the eye equal, or nearly equal, to that from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus. Consequently,Babylon would only be east ofThapsacus in the same proportion as the line drawn from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus exceeds the line drawn from the frontier ofCarmania toBabylon.Eratosthenes, however, does not tell us that the line which bounds the western coast ofAriana follows the direction of the meridian; nor yet that a line drawn from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus would form right angles with the meridian of theCaspian Gates. But rather, that the line which would form right angles with the meridian, would be one which should follow the course of theTaurus, and with which the line drawn from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus would form an acute angle. Nor, again, does he ever say that a line drawn fromCarmania toBabylon would be parallel to that drawn [from theCaspian Gates ] toThapsacus; and even if it were parallel, this would prove nothing for the argument ofHipparchus, since it does not form right angles with the meridian of theCaspian Gates.
§ 2.1.29 But taking this for granted, and proving, as he imagines, that, according toEratosthenes,Babylon is east ofThapsacus rather more than 1000 stadia, he draws from this false hypothesis a new argument, which he uses to the following purpose; and says, If we suppose a right line drawn fromThapsacus towards the south, and another fromBabylon perpendicular thereto, a right-angled triangle would be the result; whose sides should be, 1. A line drawn fromThapsacus toBabylon; 2. A perpendicular drawn fromBabylon to the meridian ofThapsacus; 3. The meridian line ofThapsacus. The hypotenuse of this triangle would be a right line drawn fromThapsacus toBabylon, which he estimates at 4800 stadia. The perpendicular drawn fromBabylon to the meridian ofThapsacus is scarcely more than 1000 stadia; the same amount by which the line drawn [from theCaspian Gates ] toThapsacus exceeds that [from the common frontier ofCarmania andPersia] toBabylon. The two sides [of the triangle] being given,Hipparchus proceeds to find the third, which is much greater than the perpendicular aforesaid. To this he adds the line drawn fromThapsacus northwards to the mountains ofArmenia, one part of which, according toEratosthenes, was measured, and found to be 1100 stadia; the other, or part unmeasured byEratosthenes,Hipparchus estimates to be 1000 stadia at the least: so that the two together amount to 2100 stadia. Adding this to the [length of the] side upon which falls the perpendicular drawn fromBabylon,Hipparchus estimated a distance of many thousand stadia from the mountains ofArmenia and the parallel ofAthens to this perpendicular, which falls on the parallel ofBabylon.From the parallel ofAthens to that ofBabylon he shows that there cannot be a greater distance than 2400 stadia, even admitting the estimate supplied byEratosthenes himself of the number of stadia which the entire meridian contains; and that if this be so, the mountains ofArmenia and theTaurus cannot be under the same parallel of latitude asAthens, (which is the opinion of'Eratosthenes,) but many thousand stadia to the north, as the data supplied by that writer himself prove. But here, for the formation of his right-angled triangle,Hipparchus not only makes use of propositions already overturned, but assumes what was never granted, namely, that the hypotenuse subtending his right angle, which is the straight line fromThapsacus toBabylon, is 4800 stadia in length. WhatEratosthenes says is, that this route follows the course of theEuphrates, and adds, thatMesopotamia andBabylon are encompassed as it were by a great circle formed by theEuphrates andTigris, but principally by the former of these rivers. So that a straight line fromThapsacus toBabylon would neither follow the course of theEuphrates, nor yet be near so many stadia in length. Thus the argument [ofHipparchus] is overturned. We have stated before, that supposing two lines drawn from theCaspian Gates, one toThapsacus, and the other to the mountains ofArmenia oppositeThapsacus, and distant therefrom, according toHipparchus's own estimate, 2100 stadia at the very least, neither of them would be parallel to each other, nor yet to that line which, passing throughBabylon, is styled byEratosthenes the southern side [of the third section]. As he could not inform us of the exact length of the route by the mountains,Eratosthenes tells us the distance betweenThapsacus and theCaspian Gates; in fact, to speak in a general way, he puts this distance in place of the other; besides, as he merely wanted to give the length of the territory betweenAriana and theEuphrates, he was not particular to have the exact measure of either route. To pretend that he considered the lines to be parallel to each other, is evidently to accuse the man of more than childish ignorance, and we dismiss the insinuation as nonsense forthwith.
§ 2.1.30 There, however, are some instances in which one may justly accuseEratosthenes. There is a difference in dissecting limb by limb, or merely cutting off portions [indiscriminately], (for in the former you may only separate parts having a natural outline, and distinguished by a regular form; this the poet alludes to in the expression, "Cutting them limb from limb;" whereas in regard to the latter this is not the case,) and we may adopt with propriety either one or other of these plans according to the time and necessity. So in Geography, if you enter into every detail, you may sometimes be compelled to divide your territories into portions, so to speak, but it is a more preferable way to separate them into limbs, than into such chance pieces; for thus only you can define accurately particular points and boundaries, a thing so necessary to the geographer. When it can be done, the best way to define a country is by the rivers, mountains, or sea; also, where possible, by the nation or nations [who inhabit it], and by its size and configuration. However, in default of a geometrical definition, a simple and general description may be said always to answer the purpose. In regard to size, it is sufficient to state the greatest length and breadth; for example, that the habitable earth is 70,000 stadia long, and that its breadth is scarcely half its length. And as to form, to compare a country to any geometrical or other well-known figure. For example,Sicily to a triangle, Spain to anox-hide, or thePeloponnesus to a plane-leaf. The larger the territory to be divided, the more general also ought its divisions to be.
§ 2.1.31 [In the system ofEratosthenes], the habitable earth has been admirably divided into two parts by theTaurus and the Mediterranean Sea, which reaches to thePillars. On the southern side, the limits ofIndia have been described by a variety of methods; by its mountains, its river, its seas, and its name, which seems to indicate that it is inhabited only by one people. It is with justice too that he attributes to it the form of a quadrilateral or rhomboid.Ariana is not so accurately described, on account of its western side being interwoven with the adjacent land. Still it is pretty well distinguished by its three other sides, which are formed by three nearly straight lines, and also by its name, which shows it to be only one nation. As to the Third Section ofEratosthenes, it cannot be considered to be defined or circumscribed at all; for that side of it which is common toAriana is but ill defined, as before remarked. The southern side, too, is most negligently taken: it is, in fact, no boundary to the section at all, for it passes right through its centre, leaving entirely outside of it many of the southern portions. Nor yet does it represent the greatest length of the section, for the northern side is the longest. Nor, lastly, can theEuphrates be its western boundary, not even if it flowed in a right line, since its two extremes do not lie under the same meridian. How then is it the western rather than the southern boundary? Apart from this, the distance to the Seas ofCilicia andSyria is so inconsiderable, that there can be no reason why he should not have enlarged the third section, so as to include the kingdoms ofSemiramis andNinus, who are both of them known as Syrian monarchs; the first builtBabylon, which he made his royal residence; the secondNinus, the capital ofSyria; and the same dialect still exists on both sides of theEuphrates. The idea of thus dismembering so renowned a nation, and allotting its portions to strange nations with which it had no connexion, is as peculiarly unfortunate.Eratosthenes cannot plead that he was compelled to do this on account of its size, for had it extended as far as the sea and the frontiers ofArabia Felix andEgypt, even then it would not have been as large asIndia, or evenAriana. It would have therefore been much better to have enlarged the third section, making it comprehend the whole space as far as the Sea ofSyria; but if this were done, the southern side would not be as he represents it, nor yet in a straight line, but starting fromCarmania would follow the right side of the sea-shore from thePersian Gulf to the mouth of theEuphrates; it would then approach the limits ofMesene andBabylon, where the isthmus commences which separatesArabia Felix from the rest of the continent. Traversing the isthmus, it would continue its course to the recess of theArabian Gulf andPelusium, thence to the mouth of theNile atCanopus. Such would be the southern side. The west would be traced by the sea-shore from the [river's] mouth atCanopus toCilicia.
§ 2.1.32 The fourth section would consist ofArabia Felix, theArabian Gulf, and the whole ofEgypt andEthiopia. Its length bounded by two meridians, one drawn through its most western point, the other through its most eastern; and its breadth by two parallels through its most northern and southern points. For this is the best way to describe the extent of irregular figures, whose length and breadth cannot be determined by their sides. In general it is to be observed, that length and breadth are to be understood in different ways, according as you speak of the whole or a part. Of a whole, the greater distance is called its length, and the lesser its breadth; of a part, that is to be considered the length which is parallel to the length of the whole, without any regard whether it, or that which is left for the breadth, be the greater distance. The length of the whole habitable earth is measured from east to west by a line drawn parallel to the equator, and its breadth from north to south in the direction of the meridian; consequently, the length of any of the parts ought to be portions of a line drawn parallel to the length of the whole, and their breadth to the breadth of the whole. For, in the first place, by this means the size of the whole habitable earth will be best described; and secondly, the disposition and configuration of its parts, and the manner in which one may be said to be greater or less than another, will be made manifest by thus comparing them.
§ 2.1.33 Eratosthenes, however, measures the length of the habitable earth by a line which he considers straight, drawn from thePillars of Hercules, in the direction of theCaspian Gates and theCaucasus. The length of the third section, by a line drawn from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus, and of the fourth, by one running fromThapsacus throughHeroopolis to the country surrounded by theNile: this must necessarily be deflected toCanopus andAlexandria, for there is the last mouth of theNile, which goes by the name of the Canopic or Heracleotic mouth. Whether therefore these two lengths be considered to form one straight line, or to make an angle withThapsacus, certain it is that neither of them is parallel to the length of the habitable earth; this is evident from whatEratosthenes has himself said concerning them. According to him the length of the habitable earth is described by a right line running through theTaurus to thePillars of Hercules, in the direction of theCaucasus,Rhodes, andAthens. FromRhodes toAlexandria, following the meridian of the two cities, he says there cannot be much less than 4000 stadia, consequently there must be the same difference between the latitudes ofRhodes andAlexandria. Now the latitude ofHeroopolis is about the same asAlexandria, or rather more south. So that a line, whether straight or broken, which intersects the parallel ofHeroopolis,Rhodes, or theGates of the Caspian, cannot be parallel to either of these. These lengths therefore are not properly indicated, nor are the northern sections any better.
§ 2.1.34 We will now return at once toHipparchus, and see what comes next. Continuing to palm assumptions of his own [uponEratosthenes], he goes on to refute, with geometrical accuracy, statements which that author had made in a mere general way. "Eratosthenes," he says, "estimates that there are 6700 stadia betweenBabylon and theCaspian Gates, and fromBabylon to the frontiers ofCarmania andPersia above 9000 stadia; this he supposes to lie in a direct line towards the equinoctial rising, and perpendicular to the common side of his second and third sections. Thus, according to his plan, we should have a right-angled triangle, with the right angle next to the frontiers ofCarmania, and its hypotenuse less than one of the sides about the right angle! ConsequentlyPersia should be included in the second section." To this we reply, that the line drawn fromBabylon toCarmania was never intended as a parallel, nor yet that which divides the two sections as a meridian, and that therefore nothing has been laid to his charge, at all events with any just foundation. In fact,Eratosthenes having stated the number of stadia from theCaspian Gates toBabylon as above given, [from theCaspian Gates ] toSusa 4900 stadia, and fromBabylon [toSusa ] 3400 stadia,Hipparchus runs away from his former hypothesis, and says that [by drawing lines from] theCaspian Gates,Susa, andBabylon, an obtuse-angled triangle would be the result, whose sides should be of the length laid down, and of whichSusa would form the obtuse angle. He then argues, that "according to these premises, the meridian drawn from theGates of the Caspian will intersect the parallel ofBabylon andSusa 4400 stadia more to the west, than would a straight line drawn from theCaspian to the confines ofCarmania andPersia; and that this last line, forming with the meridian of theCaspian Gates half a right angle, would lie exactly in a direction midway between the south and the equinoctial rising. Now as the course of theIndus is parallel to this line, it cannot flow south on its descent from the mountains, asEratosthenes asserts, but in a direction lying between the south and the equinoctial rising, as laid down in the ancient charts." But who is there who will admit this to be an obtuse-angled triangle, without also admitting that it contains a right angle? Who will agree that the line fromBabylon toSusa, which forms one side of this obtuse-angled triangle, lies parallel, without admitting the same of the whole line as far asCarmania? or that the line drawn from theCaspian Gates to the frontiers ofCarmania is parallel to theIndus? Nevertheless, without this the reasoning [ofHipparchus] is worth nothing "Eratosthenes himself also states," [continuesHipparchus, ] "that the form ofIndia is rhomboidal; and since the whole eastern border of that country has a decided tendency towards the east, but more particularly the extremest cape, which lies more to the south than any other part of the coast, the side next theIndus must be the same."
§ 2.1.35 These arguments may be very geometrical, but they are not convincing. After having himself invented these various difficulties, he dismisses them, saying, "Had [Eratosthenes] been chargeable for small distances only, he might have been excused; but since his mistakes involve thousands of stadia, we cannot pardon him, more especially since he has laid it down that at a mere distance of 400 stadia, such as that between the parallels ofAthens andRhodes, there is a sensible variation [of latitude]." But these sensible variations are not all of the same kind, the distance [involved therein] being in some instances greater, in others less; greater, when for our estimate of the climata we trust merely to the eye, or are guided by the vegetable productions and the temperature of the air; less, when we employ gnomons and dioptric instruments. Nothing is more likely than that if you measure the parallel ofAthens, or that ofRhodes andCaria, by means of a gnomon, the difference resulting from so many stadia will be sensible. But when a geographer, in order to trace a line from west to east, 3000 stadia broad, makes use of a chain of mountains 40,000 stadia long, and also of a sea which extends still farther 30,000 stadia, and farther wishing to point out the situation of the different parts of the habitable earth relative to this line, calls some southern, others northern, and finally lays out what he calls the sections, each section consisting of divers countries, then we ought carefully to examine in what acceptation he uses his terms; in what sense he says that such a side [of any section] is the north side, and what other is the south, or east, or west side. If he does not take pains to avoid great errors, he deserves to be blamed, but should he be guilty merely of trifling inaccuracies, he should be forgiven. But here nothing shows thoroughly thatEratosthenes has committed either serious or slight errors, for on one hand what he may have said concerning such great distances, can never be verified by a geometrical test, and on the other, his accuser, while endeavouring to reason like a geometrician, does not found his arguments on any real data, but on gratuitous suppositions.
§ 2.1.36 The fourth sectionHipparchus certainly manages better, though he still maintains the same censorious tone, and obstinacy in sticking to his first hypotheses, or others similar. He properly objects toEratosthenes giving as the length of this section a line drawn fromThapsacus toEgypt, as being similar to the case of a man who should tell us that the diagonal of a parallelogram was its length. ForThapsacus and the coasts ofEgypt are by no means under the same parallel of latitude, but under parallels considerably distant from each other, and a line drawn fromThapsacus toEgypt would lie in a kind of diagonal or oblique direction between them. But he is wrong when he expresses his surprise thatEratosthenes should dare to state the distance betweenPelusium andThapsacus at 6000 stadia, when he says there are above 8000. In proof of this he advances that the parallel ofPelusium is south of that ofBabylon by more than 2500 stadia, and that according toEratosthenes (as he supposes) the latitude ofThapsacus is above 4800 stadia north of that ofBabylon; from whichHipparchus tells us it results that [betweenThapsacus andPelusium ] there are more than 8000 stadia. But I would inquire how he can prove thatEratosthenes supposed so great a distance between the parallels ofBabylon andThapsacus? He says, indeed, that such is the distance fromThapsacus toBabylon, but not that there is this distance between their parallels, nor yet thatThapsacus andBabylon are under the same meridian. So much the contrary, thatHipparchus has himself pointed out, that, according toEratosthenes,Babylon ought to be east ofThapsacus more than 2000 stadia. We have before cited the statement ofEratosthenes, thatMesopotamia andBabylon are encircled by theTigris andEuphrates, and that the greater portion of the Circle is formed by this latter river, which flowing north and south takes a turn to the east, and then, returning to a southerly direction, discharges itself [into the sea]. So long as it flows from north to south, it may be said to follow a southerly direction; but the turning towards the east andBabylon is a decided deviation from the southerly direction, and it never recovers a straight course, but forms the circuit we have mentioned above. When he tells us that the journey fromBabylon toThapsacus is 4800 stadia, he adds, following the course of theEuphrates, as if on purpose lest any one should understand such to be the distance in a direct line, or between the two parallels. If this be not granted, it is altogether a vain attempt to show that if a right-angled triangle were constructed by lines drawn fromPelusium andThapsacus to the point where the parallel ofThapsacus intercepts the meridian ofPelusium, that one of the lines which form the right angle, and is in the direction of the meridian, would be longer than that forming the hypotenuse drawn fromThapsacus toPelusium. Worthless, too, is the argument in connexion with this, being the inference from a proposition not admitted; forEratosthenes never asserts that fromBabylon to the meridian of theCaspian Gates is a distance of 4800 stadia. We have shown thatHipparchus deduces this from data not admitted byEratosthenes; but desirous to controvert every thing advanced by that writer, he assumes that fromBabylon to the line drawn from theCaspian Gates to the mountains ofCarmania, according toEratosthenes' description, there are above 9000 stadia, and from thence draws his conclusions.
§ 2.1.37 Eratosthenes cannot, therefore, be found fault with on these grounds; what may be objected against him is as follows. When you wish to give a general outline of size and configuration, you should devise for yourself some rule which may be adhered to more or less. After having laid down that the breadth of the space occupied by the mountains which run in a direction due east, as well as by the sea which reaches to thePillars of Hercules, is 3000 stadia, would you pretend to estimate different lines, which you may draw within the breadth of that space, as one and the same line? We should be more willing to grant you the power of doing so with respect to the lines which run parallel to that space than with those which fall upon it; and among these latter, rather with respect to those which fall within it than to those which extend without it; and also rather for those which, in regard to the shortness of their extent, would not pass out of the said space than for those which would. And again, rather for lines of some considerable length than for any thing very short, for the inequality of lengths is less perceptible in great extents than the difference of configuration. For example, if you give 3000 stadia for the breadth at theTaurus, as well as for the sea which extends to thePillars of Hercules, you will form a parallelogram entirely enclosing both the mountains of theTaurus and the sea; if you divide it in its length into several other parallelograms, and draw first the diagonal of the great parallelogram, and next that of each smaller parallelogram, surely the diagonal of the great parallelogram will be regarded as a line more nearly parallel and equal to the side forming the length of that figure than the diagonal of any of the smaller parallelograms: and the more your lesser parallelograms should be multiplied, the more will this become evident. Certainly, it is in great figures that the obliquity of the diagonal and its difference from the side forming the length are the less perceptible, so that you would have but little scruple in taking the diagonal as the length of the figure. But if you draw the diagonal more inclined, so that it falls beyond both sides, or at least beyond one of the sides, then will this no longer be the case; and this is the sense in which we have observed, that when you attempted to draw even in a very general way the extents of the figures, you ought to adopt some rule. ButEratosthenes takes a line from theCaspian Gates along the mountains, running as it were in the same parallel as far as thePillars, and then a second line, starting directly from the mountains to touchThapsacus; and again a third line fromThapsacus to the frontiers ofEgypt, occupying so great a breadth. If then in proceeding you give the length of the two last lines [taken together] as the measure of the length of the district, you will appear to measure the length of one of your parallelograms by its diagonal. And if, farther, this diagonal should consist of a broken line, as that would be which stretches from theCaspian Gates to the embouchure of theNile, passing byThapsacus, your error will appear much greater. This is the sum of what may be alleged againstEratosthenes.
§ 2.1.38 In another respect also we have to complain ofHipparchus, because, as he had given a category of the statements ofEratosthenes, he ought to have corrected his mistakes, in the same way that we have done; but whenever he has any thing particular to remark, he tells us to follow the ancient charts, which, to say the least, need correction infinitely more than the map ofEratosthenes. The argument which follows is equally objectionable, being founded on the consequences of a proposition which, as we have shown, is inadmissible, namely, thatBabylon was not more than 1000 stadia east ofThapsacus; when it was quite clear, fromEratosthenes' own words, thatBabylon was above 2400 stadia east of that place; since fromThapsacus to the passage of theEuphrates where it was crossed byAlexander, the shortest route is 2400 stadia, and theTigris andEuphrates, having encompassedMesopotamia, flow towards the east, and afterwards take a southerly direction and approach nearer to each other and toBabylon at the same time: nothing appears absurd in this statement ofEratosthenes.
§ 2.1.39 The next objection ofHipparchus is likewise false. He attempts to prove thatEratosthenes, in his statement that the route fromThapsacus to theCaspian Gates is 10,000 stadia, gives this as the distance taken in a straight line; such not being the case, as in that instance the distance would be much shorter. His mode of reasoning is after this fashion. He says, "According toEratosthenes, the mouth of theNile atCanopus, and theCyaneae, are under the same meridian, which is distant from that ofThapsacus 6300 stadia. Now from theCyaneae to MountCaspius, which is situated close to the defile leading fromColchis to theCaspian Sea, there are 6600 stadia, so that, with the exception of about 300 stadia, the distance from the meridian of theCyaneae to that ofThapsacus, or to that of MountCaspius, is the same: and bothThapsacus and MountCaspius are, so to speak, under the same meridian. It follows from this that theCaspian Gates are about equi-distant betweenThapsacus and MountCaspius, but that the distance between them andThapsacus is much less than the 10,000 stadia mentioned byEratosthenes. Consequently, as the distance in a right line is much less than 10,000 stadia, this route, which he considered to be in a straight course from theCaspian Gates toThapsacus, must have been a circumbendibus." To this we reply, thatEratosthenes, as is usual in Geography, speaks of right lines, meridians, and parallels to the equator, with considerable latitude, whereasHipparchus criticizes him with geometrical nicety, as if every line had been measured with rule and compass.Hipparchus at the same time himself frequently deciding as to right lines and parallels, not by actual measurement, but mere conjecture. Such is the first error of this writer. A second is, that he never lays down the distances asEratosthenes has given them, nor yet reasons on the data furnished by that writer, but from mere assumptions of his own coinage. Thus, whereEratosthenes states that the distance from the mouth of the [ThracianBosphorus ] to thePhasis is 8000 stadia, from thence toDioscurias 600 stadia, and fromDioscurias toCaspius five days' journey, (whichHipparchus estimates at 1000 stadia,) the sum of these, as stated byEratosthenes, would amount to 9600 stadia. ThisHipparchus abridges in the following manner. From theCyaneae to thePhasis are 5600 stadia, and from thePhasis to theCaspius 1000 more. There fore it is no statement ofEratosthenes that theCaspius andThapsacus are under the same meridian, but ofHipparchus himself. However, supposingEratosthenes says so, does it follow that the distance from theCaspius to theCaspian Gates, and that fromThapsacus to the same point, are equal.
§ 2.1.40 In the second book of his Commentaries,Hipparchus, having again mooted the question concerning the mountains of theTaurus, of which we have spoken sufficiently, proceeds with the northern parts of the habitable earth. He then notices the statement ofEratosthenes concerning the countries situated west of theEuxine, namely, that the three [principal] headlands [of this continent], the first thePeloponnesian, the second theItalian, the third theLigurian, run from north [to south], enclosing theAdriatic andTyrrhenian gulfs. After this general exposition,Hipparchus proceeds to criticise each point in detail, but rather on geometrical than geographical grounds; on these subjects, however, the number ofEratosthenes' errors is so overwhelming, as also ofTimosthenes the author of the Treatise on the Ports, (whomEratosthenes prefers above every other writer, though he often decides even against him,) that it does not seem to be worth my time to review their faulty productions, nor even whatHipparchus has to say about them; since he neither enumerates all their blunders, nor yet sets them right, but only points out how they falsify and contradict each other. Still any one might certainly object to the saying ofEratosthenes, that Europe has but three headlands, and considering as one that which terminates by thePeloponnesus, notwithstanding it is broken up into so many divisions. In fact,Sounion is as much a promontory asLaconia, and not very much less south thanMalea, forming a considerable bay, and the ThracianChersonesus andSounion form the Gulf ofMelas, and likewise those ofMacedonia. Added to this, it is manifest that the majority of the distances are falsely stated, thus arguing an ignorance of geography scarcely credible, and so far from requiring geometrical demonstration that it stands out prominent on the very face of the statements. For example, the distance fromEpidamnus to theThermaic Gulf is above 2000 stadia;Eratosthenes gives it at 900. So too he states the distance fromAlexandria toCarthage at 13,000 stadia; it is not more than 9000, that is, if, as he himself tells us,Caria andRhodes are under the same meridian asAlexandria, and theStrait of Messina under the same asCarthage, for every one is agreed that the voyage fromCaria to theStrait of Sicily does not exceed 9000 stadia. It is doubtless permissible in very great distances to consider as under one and the same meridian places which are not more east and west of each other thanCarthage is west of theStrait; but an error of 3000 stadia is too much; and when he placesRome under the same meridian asCarthage, notwithstanding its being so far west of that city, it is but the crowning proof of his extreme ignorance both of these places, and likewise of the other countries farther west as far as thePillars of Hercules.
§ 2.1.41 SinceHipparchus does not furnish a Geography of his own, but merely reviews what is said in that ofEratosthenes, he ought to have gone farther, and corrected the whole of that writer's mistakes. As for ourselves, it is only in those particulars whereEratosthenes is correct (and we acknowledge that he frequently errs) that we have thought it our duty to quote his own words, in order to reinstate them in their position, and to defend him when he could be acquitted of the charges ofHipparchus; never failing to break a lance with the latter writer whenever his objections seemed to be the result of a mere propensity to find fault. But whenEratosthenes is grossly mistaken, and the animadversions ofHipparchus are just, we have thought it sufficient in our Geography to set him (Eratosthenes) right by merely stating facts as they are. As the mistakes were so continual and numerous, it was better not to mention them except in a sparse and general manner. This principle in the details we shall strive to carry out. In the present instance we shall only remark, thatTimosthenes,Eratosthenes, and those who preceded them, were but ill acquainted withIberia andKeltica, and a thousand times less withGermania,Britain, and the land of theGetae andBastarnae. Their want of knowledge is also great in regard toItaly, theAdriatic, theEuxine, and the countries north of these. Possibly this last remark may be regarded as captious, sinceEratosthenes states, that as to distant countries, he has merely given the admeasurements as he finds them supplied by others, without vouching for their accuracy, although he sometimes adds whether the route indicated is more or less in a right line. We should not therefore subject to a too rigorous examination distances as to which no one is agreed, after the mannerHipparchus does, both in regard to the places already mentioned, and also to those of whichEratosthenes has given the distance fromHyrcania toBactria and the countries beyond, and those fromColchis to the Sea ofHyrcania. These are points where we should not scrutinize him so narrowly as [when he describes] places situated in the heart of our continent, or others equally well known; and even these should be regarded from a geographical rather than a geometrical point of view.Hipparchus, at the end of the second book of his Commentaries on the Geography ofEratosthenes, having found fault with certain statements relative toEthiopia, tells us at the commencement of the third, that his strictures, though to a certain point geographical, will be mathematical for the most part. As for myself, I cannot find any geography there. To me it seems entirely mathematical; butEratosthenes himself set the example; for he frequently runs into scientific speculations, having little to do with the subject in hand, and which result in vague and inexact conclusions. Thus he is a mathematician in geography, and in mathematics a geographer; and so lies open to the attacks of both parties. In this third book, both he andTimosthenes get such severe justice, that there seems nothing left for us to do;Hipparchus is quite enough.
§ 2.2.1 WE will now proceed to examine the statements made byPosidonius in his Treatise on the Ocean. This Treatise contains much geographical information, sometimes given in a manner conformable to the subject, at others too mathematical. It will not, therefore, be amiss to look into some of his statements, both now and afterwards, as opportunity occurs, taking care to confine ourselves within bounds. He deals simply with geography, when he tells us that the earth is spheroidal and the universe too, and admits the necessary consequences of this hypothesis, one of which is, that the earth contains five zones.
§ 2.2.2 Posidonius informs us thatParmenides was the first to make this division of the earth into five zones, but that he almost doubled the size of the torrid zone, which is situated between the tropics, by bringing it beyond these into the temperate zones. But according toAristotle the torrid zone is contained between the tropics, the temperate zones occupying the whole space between the tropics and the arctic circles. Both of these divisionsPosidonius justly condemns, for the torrid zone is properly the space rendered uninhabitable by the heat. Whereas more than half of the space between the tropics is inhabited, as we may judge by theEthiopians who dwell aboveEgypt. The equator divides the whole of this space into two equal parts. Now fromSyene, which is the limit of the summer tropic, toMeroe, there are 5000 stadia, and thence to the parallel of the Cinnamon region, where the torrid zone commences, 3000 stadia. The whole of this distance has been measured, and it may be gone over either by sea or land; the remaining portion to the equator is, if we adopt the measure of the earth supplied byEratosthenes, 8800 stadia. Therefore, as 16,800 is to 8800, so is the space comprised between the tropics to the breadth of the torrid zone. If of the more recent measurements we prefer those which diminish the size of the earth, such as that adopted byPosidonius, which is about 180,000 stadia, the torrid zone will still only occupy half, or rather more than half, of the space comprised between the tropics; but never an equal space. [Respecting the system ofAristotle,Posidonius farther says, ] "Since it is not every latitude which has Arctic Circles, and even those which do possess them have not the same, how can any one determine by them the bounds of the temperate zones, which are immutable?" Nothing however is proved [againstAristotle] from the fact that there are not Arctic Circles for every latitude, since they exist for all the inhabitants of the temperate zone, on whose account alone the zone receives its name of temperate. But the objection that the Arctic Circles do not remain the same for every latitude, but shift their places, is excellent.
§ 2.2.3 Posidonius, who himself divides the earth into zones, tells us that "five is the number best suited for the explanation of the celestial appearances, two of these are periscii, which reach from the poles to the point where the tropics serve for Arctic Circles; two more are heteroscii, which extend from the former to the inhabitants of the tropics, and one between the tropics, which is called amrphiscius, but for matters relative to the earth, it is convenient to suppose two other narrow zones placed under the tropics, and divided by then into two halves, over which [every year] for the space of a fortnight, the sun is vertical." These zones are remarkable for being extremely arid and sandy, producing no vegetation with the exception of silphium, and a parched grain somewhat resembling wheat. This is caused by there being no mountains to attract the clouds and produce rain, nor any rivers flowing through the country. The consequence is that the various species are born with woolly hair, crumpled horns, protruding lips, and wide nostrils; their extremities being as, it were gnarled. Within these zones also dwell theIchthyophagi. He further remarks, that these peculiarities are quite sufficient to distinguish the zones in question: those which are farther south having a more salubrious atmosphere, and being more fruitful and better supplied with water.
§ 2.3.1 POLYBIUS supposes six zones: two situated between the poles and the arctic circles; two between the arctic circles and the tropics; and two between the tropics which are divided by the equator. However, it appears to me that the division into five zones accords best both with the order of external nature and geography. With external nature, as respects the celestial phenomena, and the temperature of the atmosphere. With respect to the celestial phenomena, as thePeriscii and Amphiscii are thereby divided in the best possible manner, and it also forms an excellent line of separation in regard to those who behold the stars from an opposite point of view. With respect to the temperature of the atmosphere, inasmuch as looked at in connexion with the sun, there are three main divisions, which influence in a remarkable degree both plants, animals, and every other animated thing, existing either in the air, or exposed to it, namely, excess of heat, want of heat, and a moderate supply of heat. In the division into [five] zones, each of these is correctly distinguished. The two frigid zones indicate the want of heat, being alike in the temperature of their atmosphere; the temperate zones possess a moderate heat, and the remaining, or torrid zone, is remarkable for its excess of heat. The propriety of this division in regard to geography is equally apparent; the object of this science being to determine the limits of that one of the temperate zones which we inhabit. To the east and west, it is true, the boundaries are formed by the sea, but to the north and south they are indicated by the atmosphere; which in the middle is of a grateful temperature both to animals and plants, but on either side is rendered intemperate either through excess or defect of heat. To manifest this threefold difference, the division of the globe into five zones becomes necessary. In fact, the division of the globe, by means of the equator, into two hemispheres, the one northern, wherein we dwell, and the other southern, points to this threefold division, for the regions next the equator and torrid zone are uninhabitable on account of the heat, those next the poles on account of the cold, but those in the middle are mild, and fitted for the habitation of man.Posidonius, in placing two zones under the tropics, pays no regard to the reasons which influenced the division into five zones, nor is his division equally appropriate. It is no more than if he were to form his division into zones merely according to the [countries inhabited] by different nations, calling one the Ethiopian, another theScythian andKeltic, and a third the Intermediate zone.
§ 2.3.2 Polybius, indeed, is wrong in bounding certain of his zones by the arctic circles, namely, the two which lie under them, and the two between these and the tropics. The impropriety of using shifting points to mark the limits of those which are fixed has been remarked before; and we have likewise objected to the plan of making the tropics the boundary of the torrid zone. However, in dividing the torrid zone into two parts [Polybius] seems to have been influenced by no inconsiderable reason, the same which led us to regard the whole earth as properly divided by the equator into two hemispheres, north and south. We at once see that by means of this division the torrid zone is divided into two parts, thus establishing a kind of uniformity; each hemisphere consisting of three entire zones, respectively similar to each other. Thus this partition will admit of a division into six zones, but the other does not allow of it at all. Supposing you cut the earth into two portions by a line drawn through the poles, you can find no sufficient cause for dividing the eastern and western hemispheres into six zones; on the other hand, five would be preferable. For since both the portions of the torrid zone, divided by the equator, are similar and contiguous to each other, it would seem out of place and superfluous to separate them; whereas the temperate and frigid zones respectively resemble each other, although lying apart. Wherefore, supposing the whole earth to consist of these two hemispheres, it is sufficient to divide them into five zones. If there be a temperate region under the equator, asEratosthenes asserts, and is admitted byPolybius, (who adds, that it is the most elevated part of the earth, and consequently subject to the drenching rains occasioned by the monsoons bringing up from the north innumerable clouds, which discharge themselves on the highest lands,) it would be better to suppose this a third narrow temperate zone, than to extend the two temperate zones within the circles of the tropics. This supposition is supported by the statements ofPosidonius, that the course of the sun, whether in the ecliptic, or from east to west, appears most rapid in tie region [of which we are speaking], because the rotations of that luminary are performed with a speed increased in proportion to the greater size of the circle.
§ 2.3.3 Posidonius blamesPolybius for asserting that the region of the earth, situated under the equator, is the highest, since a spherical body being equal all round, no part can be described as high; and as to mountainous districts, there are none under the equator, it is on the contrary a flat country, about the same level as the sea; as for the rains which swell theNile, they descend from the mountains ofEthiopia. Although advancing this, he afterwards seems to adopt the other opinion, for he says that he fancies there may be mountains under the equator, around which the clouds assembling from both of the temperate zones, produce violent rains. Here is one manifest contradiction; again, in stating that the land under the equator is mountainous, another contradiction appears. For they say that the ocean is confluent, how then can they place mountains in the midst of it? unless they mean to say that there are islands. However, whether such be the fact does not lie within the province of geography to determine, the inquiry would better be left to him who makes the ocean in particular his study.
§ 2.3.4 Posidonius, in speaking of those who have sailed round Africa, tells us thatHerodotus was of opinion that some of those sent out byDarius actually performed this enterprise; and thatHeraclides ofPontus, in a certain dialogue, introduces one of theMagi presenting himself toGelon, and declaring that he had performed this voyage; but he remarks that this wants proof. He also narrates how a certainEudoxus ofCyzicus, sent with sacrifices and oblations to the Corean games, travelled intoEgypt in the reign ofEuergetes II.; and being a learned man, and much interested in the peculiarities of different countries, he made interest with the king and his ministers on the subject, but especially for exploring theNile. It chanced that a certainIndian was brought to the king by the [coast]-guard of theArabian Gulf. They reported that they had found him in a ship, alone, and half dead: but that they neither knew who he was, nor where he came from, as he spoke a language they could not understand. He was placed in the hands of preceptors appointed to teach him the Greek language. On acquiring which, he related how he had started from the coasts ofIndia, but lost his course, and reachedEgypt alone, all his companions having perished with hunger; but that if he were restored to his country he would point out to those sent with him by the king, the route by sea toIndia.Eudoxus was of the number thus sent. He set sail with a good supply of presents, and brought back with him in exchange aromatics and precious stones, some of which theIndians collect from amongst the pebbles of the rivers, others they dig out of the earth, where they have been formed by the moisture, as crystals are formed with us. [He fancied that he had made his fortune], however, he was greatly deceived, forEuergetes took possession of the whole treasure. On the death of that prince, his widow,Cleopatra, assumed the reins of government, andEudoxus was again despatched with a richer cargo than before. On his journey back, he was carried by the winds aboveEthiopia, and being thrown on certain [unknown] regions, he conciliated the inhabitants by presents of grain, wine, and cakes of pressed figs, articles which they were without; receiving in exchange a supply of water, and guides for the journey. He also wrote down several words of their language, and having found the end of a prow, with ahorse carved on it, which he was told formed part of the wreck of a vessel coming from the west, he took it with him, and proceeded on his homeward course. He arrived safely inEgypt, where no longerCleopatra, but her son, ruled; but he was again stripped of every thing on the accusation of having appropriated to his own uses a large portion of the merchandise sent out. However, he carried the prow into the market-place, and exhibited it to the pilots, who recognised it as being come fromGades. The merchants [of that place] employing large vessels, but the lesser traders small ships, which they stylehorses, from the figures of that animal borne on the prow, and in which they go out fishing aroundMaurusia, as far as the Lixus. Some of the pilots professed to recognise the prow as that of a vessel which had sailed beyond the river Lixus, but had not returned. From thisEudoxus drew the conclusion, that it was possible to circumnavigateLibya; he therefore returned home, and having collected together the whole of his substance, set out on his travels. First he visitedDicaearchia, and thenMarseilles, and afterwards traversed the whole coast as far asGades. Declaring his enterprise everywhere as he journeyed, he gathered money sufficient to equip a great ship, and two boats, resembling those used bypirates. On board these he placed singing girls, physicians, and artisans of various kinds, and launching into open sea, was carried towardsIndia by steady westerly winds. However, they who accompanied him becoming wearied with the voyage, steered their course towards land, but much against his will, as he dreaded the force of the ebb and flow. What he feared actually occurred. The ship grounded, but gently, so that it did not break up at once, but fell to pieces gradually, the goods and much of the timber of the ship being saved. With these he built a third vessel, closely resembling a ship of fifty oars, and continuing his voyage, came amongst a people who spoke the same language as that some words of which he had on a former occasion committed to writing. He further discovered, that they were men of the same stock as those otherEthiopians, and also resembled those of the kingdom of Bogus. However, he abandoned his [intended] voyage toIndia, and returned home. On his voyage back he observed an uninhabited island. well watered and wooded, and carefully noted its position. Having reachedMaurusia in safety, he disposed of his vessels, and travelled by land to the court of Bogus. He recommended that sovereign to undertake an expedition thither. This, however, was prevented on account of the fear of the [king's] advisers, lest the district should chance to expose then to treachery, by making known a route by which foreigners might come to attack them.Eudoxus, however, became aware, that although it was given out that he was himself to be sent on this proposed expedition, the real intent was to abandon him on some desert island. He therefore fled to the Roman territory, and passed thence intoIberia. Again, he equipped two vessels, one round and the other long, furnished with fifty oars, the latter framed for voyaging in the high seas. the other for coasting along the shores. He placed on board agricultural implements, seed, and builders, and hastened on the same voyage, determined, if it should prove too long, to winter on the island he had before observed, sow his seed. and leaving reaped the harvest, complete the expedition he had intended from the beginning.
§ 2.3.5 "Thus far," saysPosidonius, "I have followed the history ofEudoxus. What happened afterwards is probably known to the people ofGades andIberia;" "but," says he, "all these things only demonstrate more clearly the fact, that the inhabited earth is entirely surrounded by the ocean." "By no continent fettered in, But boundless in its flow, and free from soil."Posidonius is certainly a most strange writer; he considers that the voyage of theMagus, related byHeraclides, wants sufficient evidence, and also the account given byHerodotus of those sent out [to explore] byDarius. But this Bergaean nonsense, either the coinage of his own brain, or of some other story-teller, in whom he trusts, he pretends to be worthy of our belief. But in the first place, what is there credible in this tale of theIndian missing his way? TheArabian Gulf, which resembles a river, is narrow, and in length is from 5000 to 10,000 stadia up to its mouth, where it is narrowest of all. It is not likely that theIndians in their voyage out would have entered this Gulf by mistake. The extreme narrowness of the mouth must have warned them of their error. And if they entered it voluntarily, then there was no excuse for introducing the pretext of mistake and uncertain winds. And how did they suffer all of themselves but one to perish through hunger? And how was it that this survivor was able to manage the ship, which could not have been a small one either, fitted as it was for traversing such vast seas? What must have been his aptitude in learning the language of the country, and thus being able to persuade the king of his competence, as leader of the expedition? And how came it thatEuergetes was in want of such guides, so many being already acquainted with this sea? How was it that he who was sent by the inhabitants ofCyzicus to carry libations and sacrifices, should forsake his city and sail forIndia? How was it that so great an affair was intrusted to him? And how came it that on his return, after being deprived of every thing contrary to expectation, and disgraced, a yet larger cargo of goods was intrusted to him? And when he had again returned intoEthiopia, what cause induced him to write down the words, or to inquire whence came the portion of the prow of the boat? For to learn that it was a ship of some sailing from the west, would have been no information to him, as he himself would have to sail from the west on his voyage back. When, on his return toAlexandria, he was detected in having appropriated to himself much of the merchandise, how came it that he was not punished, but allowed to go about interrogating the pilots, and exhibiting his bit of prow? And that one of these fellows actually recognised the relic, is it not delicious!Eudoxus too believed it, this is still richer; and inspired by the hope, hastens home, and then starts on a voyage beyond thePillars of Hercules! But he could never have leftAlexandria without a passport, still less after having stolen the royal property. To set sail on the sly was impossible, as the port and every other exit was kept by a numerous guard, which still exists, as we very well know who have lived inAlexandria for a long time, although it is not so strict since the Romans have had possession, but under the kings the guards were infinitely more alert. But allowing that he reachedGades, that he there constructed ships, and sailed thence with quite a royal fleet, when his vessel was shattered, by what means was he able to construct a third boat in a desert land? And when, being again on his voyage, he found that theEthiopians of the West spoke the same language as those of the East, how came it that he, so proud of his travelling propensities, forgot the completion of his voyage, when he must have had so good an expectation that there was but little now left unexplored, but relinquishing these prospects, set his mind on the expedition being undertaken by Bogus? How did he become acquainted with the snare spread for him by that king? And what advantage would have accrued to Bogus by making away with the man, rather than by dismissing him? WhenEudoxus learned the plot against himself, what means had he to escape to safer quarters? It is true that not one of these situations was actually impossible, but still they were difficult circumstances, such as one rarely escapes from by any prosperous fortune. However, he always came off with good luck, notwithstanding he was never out of danger. Besides this, how did it happen, that having escaped from Bogus, he was not afraid to sail round Africa a second time, with all the requisites for taking up his abode on the island? All this too closely resembles the falsehoods ofPytheas,Euhemerus, andAntiphanes. They however may be pardoned; for their only aim was that of the juggler. But who can forgive a demonstrator and philosopher, and one too striving to be at the head of their order? it is really too bad!
§ 2.3.6 However, he is right in attributing to earthquakes and other similar causes, which we also have enumerated, the risings, slips, and changes which at various periods come over the earth. He did well, too, in citing the opinion ofPlato, "that the tradition concerning the Island ofAtlantis might be received as something more than a mere fiction, it having been related bySolon on the authority of theEgyptian priests, that this island, almost as large as a continent, was formerly in existence, although now it had disappeared."Posidonius thinks it better to quote this than to say, "He who brought it into existence can also cause it to disappear, as the poet did the wall of theAchivi." He (Posidonius) is also of opinion that the emigration of theCimbrians and other kindred races from their native territory, was gradual, and occasioned by the inundation of the sea, and by no means a sudden movement. He supposes that the length of the inhabited earth is about 70,000 stadia, being the half of the whole circle on which it is taken; so that, says he, starting from the west, one might, aided by a continual east wind, reachIndia in so many thousand stadia.
§ 2.3.7 Next he undertakes to find fault with those who gave to the continents their present division, instead of marking them out by lines drawn parallel to the equator, by which means the different animals, plants, and temperatures would have been distinguished, according as they approached the frigid or the torrid zones; so that each continent would have formed a kind of zone. Afterwards, however, he overturns and gives up altogether this view, bestowing every commendation on the existing system, and thus making his argument altogether worthless and of no avail. In fact, the various arrangements [of a country] are not the result of premeditation, any more than the diversities of nations or languages; they all depend on circumstances and chance. Arts, forms of government, and modes of life, arising from certain [internal] springs, flourish under whatever climate they may be situated; climate, however, has its influence, and therefore while some peculiarites are due to the nature of the country, others are the result of institutions and education. It is not owing to the nature of the country, but rather to their education, that theAthenians cultivate eloquence, while theLacedemonians do not; nor yet theThebans, who are nearer still. Neither are theBabylonians andEgyptians philosophers by nature, but by reason of their institutions and education. In like manner the excellence ofhorses,oxen, and other animals, results not alone from the places where they dwell, but also, from their breeding.Posidonius confounds all these distinctions. In praising the division of the continents as it now stands, he advances as an argument the difference between theIndians and theEthiopians ofLibya, the former being more robust, and less dried by the heat of the climate. It is on this account thatHomer, who includes them all under the title ofEthiopians, describes them as being separated into two divisions, "These eastward situate, those toward the west." [Od. i, 23. [Crates], to support his hypothesis, supposes another inhabited earth, of whichHomer certainly knew nothing; and says that the passage ought to be read thus, "towards the descending sun," viz. when having passed the meridian, it begins to decline.
§ 2.3.8 First, then, theEthiopians nextEgypt are actually separated into two divisions; one part being inAsia, the other inLibya, otherwise there is no distinction between them. But it was not on this account thatHomer divided theEthiopians, nor yet because he was acquainted with the physical superiority of theIndians, (for it is not probable thatHomer had the slightest idea of theIndians, since, according to the assertion ofEudoxus,Euergetes was both ignorant ofIndia, and of the voyage thither,) but his division rather resulted from the cause we formerly mentioned. We have shown that as for the alteration ofCrates, it makes no difference whether it be read so or not.Posidonius, however, says that it does make a difference, and would be better altered into "towards the descending [sun]." But in what can this be said to differ from "towards the west," since the whole section of the hemisphere west of the meridian is styled "the west," not only the mere semicircle of the horizon. This is manifested by the following expression ofAratus, "Where the extremities of the west and east blend together." Phaenom. v. 61. However, if the reading ofPosidonius be preferable to that ofCrates, any one may likewise claim for it a superiority over that ofAristarchus. So much forPosidonius. There are, however, many particulars relating to Geography, which we shall bring under discussion; others relating to Physics, which must be examined elsewhere, or altogether disregarded; for he is much too fond of imitatingAristotle's propensity for diving into causes, a subject which we [Stoics] scrupulously avoid, simply because of the extreme darkness in which all causes are enveloped.
§ 2.4.1 POLYBIUS, in his Chorography of Europe, tells us that it is not his intention to examine the writings of the ancient geographers, but the statements of those who have criticised them, such asDicaearchus,Eratosthenes, (who was the last of those who [in his time] had laboured on geography,) andPytheas, by whom many have been deceived. It is this last writer who states that he travelled all overBritain on foot, and that the island is above 40,000 stadia in circumference. It is likewise he who describesThule and other neighbouring places, where, according to him, neither earth, water, nor air exist, separately, but a sort of concretion of all these, resembling marine sponge, in which the earth, the sea, and all things were suspended, thus forming, as it were, a link to unite the whole together. It can neither be travelled over nor sailed through. As for the substance, he affirms that he has beheld it with his own eyes; the rest, he reports on the authority of others. So much for the statements ofPytheas, who tells us, besides, that after he had returned thence, he traversed the whole coasts of Europe fromGades to theTanais.
§ 2.4.2 Polybius asks, "How is it possible that a private individual, and one too in narrow circumstances, could ever have performed such vast expeditions by sea and land? And how couldEratosthenes, who hesitates whether he may rely on his statements in general, place such entire confidence in what that writer narrates concerningBritain,Gades, andIberia?" says he, "it would have been better hadEratosthenes trusted to theMessenian rather than to this writer. The former merely pretends to have sailed into one [unknown] country, viz.Panchaea, but the latter, that he has visited the whole of the north of Europe as far as the ends of the earth; which statement, even had it been made byMercury, we should not have believed. NeverthelessEratosthenes, who termsEuhemerus aBergaean, gives credit toPytheas, although evenDicaearchus would not believe him." This argument, "although evenDicaearchus would not believe him," is ridiculous, just as ifEratosthenes ought to take for his standard a writer whomPolybius is himself for ever complaining of. The ignorance ofEratosthenes respecting the western and northern portions of Europe, we have before remarked. But both he andDicaearchus must be pardoned for this, as neither of them were personally familiar with those localities. But how can one excusePolybius andPosidonius? especiallyPolybius, who treats as mere hearsay whatEratosthenes andDicaearchus report concerning the distances of various places; and many other matters, about which, though he blames them, he is not himself free from error.Dicaearchus states that there are 10,000 stadia from thePeloponnesus to thePillars, and something above this number from thePeloponnesus to the recess of theAdriatic. He supposes 3000 stadia between thePeloponnesus and theStrait of Sicily; thus there would remain 7000 between theStrait of Sicily and thePillars. "I will not inquire," saysPolybius, "whether the statement concerning the 3000 stadia is correct or not, but 7000 stadia is not the correct measure [from theStrait of Messina to thePillars of Hercules], whether taken along the sea-shore, or right across the sea. The coast closely resembles an obtuse angle, one side reaching to theStrait of Sicily, the other to thePillars, the vertex beingNarbonne. Now let a triangle be constructed, having for its base a right line drawn through the sea, and its sides forming the aforementioned angle. The side reaching from theStrait of Sicily toNarbonne is above 11,200 stadia, while the other is below 8000. Now the greatest distance from Europe toLibya, across theTyrrhenian sea, is not above 3000 stadia, and across the Sea ofSardinia it is less still. But supposing that it too is 3000 stadia add to this 2000 stadia, the depth of the bay atNarbonne as a perpendicular from the vertex to the base of the obtuse-angled triangle. It will, then, be clear even to the geometrical powers of a child, that the entire coast from theStrait of Sicily to thePillars, does not exceed by more than 500 stadia the right line drawn across the sea; adding to these the 3000 stadia from thePeloponnesus to theStrait of Sicily, the whole taken together will give a straight line above double the length assigned byDicaearchus; and, according to his system, you must add in addition to these the stadia at the recess of theAdriatic."
§ 2.4.3 True, dearPolybius, (one might say,) this error [ofDicaearchus] is manifested by the proof which you yourself have given when you inform us that from thePeloponnesus toLeucas there are 700 stadia; from thence toCorcyra the same number; and the same number again fromCorcyra to theCeraunian Mountains; and from theCeraunian Mountains toIapygia, following the coast ofIllyria on the right, 6150 stadia. But the statement ofDicaearchus, that the distance from theStrait of Sicily to thePillars is 7000 stadia, and also your view of the matter, are both of them equally incorrect. For almost every one is agreed that the distance measured straight across the sea is 12,000 stadia, and this coincides with the received calculation of the length of the inhabited earth, which is estimated at above 70,000 stadia; the western portion of this from theGulf of Issos to the extreme western point ofIberia is little less than 30,000 stadia, and is thus calculated: from theGulf of Issos toRhodes 5000 stadia; from thence to CapeSalmonium, which forms the eastern extremity ofCrete, 1000; the length ofCrete toCriu-metopon above 2000; thence to CapePachynus inSicily 4500, and fromPachynus to theStrait of Sicily above 1000 stadia; the run from theStrait to thePillars 12,000 and lastly, from thePillars to the extremity of the said promontory ofIberia, about 3000 stadia. In addition to this, the perpendicular is not correct, supposing it true thatNarbonne lies under almost the same parallel asMarseilles, and that this latter place is under the same parallel asByzantium; which is the opinion ofHipparchus. Now the line drawn across the sea lies under the same parallel as the Strait [of thePillars] andRhodes; and the distance fromRhodes toByzantium, which both lie under the same meridian, is estimated at about 5000 stadia; to which the above-mentioned perpendicular ought to be equal. But since they say that from the recess of the Galatic Gulf, the greatest distance across the sea from Europe toLibya is 5000 stadia, it seems to me that either there is some error in this statement, or that at this pointLibya must incline very much to the north, and so come under the same parallel as thePillars.Polybius is likewise mistaken in telling us that this said perpendicular terminates close toSardinia; for instead of being lose toSardinia, it is far west thereof, having almost the whole of the sea ofLiguria between it and that island. Besides this he makes the length of the sea-coast too great; but this [error] is not so considerable [as the two preceding].
§ 2.4.4 After thisPolybius proceeds to set right the mistakes of'Eratosthenes. In this he is sometimes successful; at others his corrections are for the worse. For example,Eratosthenes gives 300 stadia fromIthaca toCorcyra;Polybius makes it above 900. FromEpidamnus toThessalonicaEratosthenes allows 900 stadia;Polybius says above 2000 [303km, about 1650 stades as crow flies]. In these instances he is correct. But whereEratosthenes states that fromMarseilles to thePillars there are 7000 stadia, and from thePyrenees [to the same place] 6000, andPolybius alters this to more than 9000 fromMarseilles, and little less than 8000 from thePyrenees, he is quite mistaken, and not so near to the truth asEratosthenes. For all are now agreed that, barring the indirectness of the roads, the whole length ofIberia is not more than 6000 stadia from thePyrenees to its western limits; notwithstandingPolybius gives 8000 stadia for the length of the riverTagus, from its source to its outlets, and this in a straight line without any reference to its sinuosities, which in fact never enter into the geographical estimate, although the sources of theTagus are above 1000 stadia from thePyrenees. His remark is quite correct, thatEratosthenes knew little aboutIberia, and on this account sometimes makes conflicting statements concerning it. He tells us, for example, that the portion of this country situated on the seacoast as far asGades is inhabited by Galatae, who possess western Europe as far asGades; nevertheless, in his account ofIberia he seems quite to have forgotten this, and makes no mention of these Galatae whatever.
§ 2.4.5 Again, however,Polybius makes an incorrect assertion, in stating that the whole length of Europe is unequal to that of Africa andAsia taken together. He tells us "that the entrance at thePillars corresponds in direction to the equinoctial west, and that theTanais flows from the summer rising, consequently the length of Europe is less than that ofAsia and Africa taken together by the space between the summer rising and the equinoctial rising, sinceAsia occupies the eastern portion of the northern semicircle. Now, in addition to the obscurity whichPolybius throws over subjects which might have been simply stated, it is false that the riverTanais flows from the summer rising. For all who are acquainted with these localities inform us that this river flows from the north into theMaeotis, so that the mouth of the river lies under the same meridian as that of theMaeotis; and so in fact does the whole river as far as is known.
§ 2.4.6 Equally unworthy of credit is the statement of those who tell us, that theTanais rises in the vicinity of theDanube, and flows from the west; they do not remember that between these are theTyras [Dniester], theDnieper, and theHypanis [Bug], all great rivers, which flow [into theEuxine Sea]; one runs parallel to theDanube, the other two to theTanais. Now if at the present day we are ignorant of the sources both of theTyras, and also of theDnieper andHypanis, the regions farther north must certainly be still less known. It is therefore a fictitious and idle assertion, that theTanais crosses these rivers, and then turns northward on its way to discharge itself into theMaeotis, it being well known that the outlets to this river are in the most northern and eastern portions of the lake. No less idle is the statement which has also been advanced. that theTanais, after crossing theCaucasus, flows northward and then turns towards theMaeotis. No one, however, [with the exception ofPolybius, ] made this river flow from the east If such were its course, our best geographers would never have told us that its direction was contrary to that of theNile, and, so to speak, diametrically opposite thereto, as if the course of both rivers lay under the same meridian.
§ 2.4.7 Further, the length of the inhabited earth is measured on a line parallel with the equator, as it is in this direction that its greatest length lies: in the same way with respect to each of the continents, we must take their length as it lies between two meridians. The measure of these lengths consists of a certain number of stadia, which we obtain either by going over the places themselves, or roads or ways parallel thereto.Polybius abandons this method, and adopts the new way of taking the segment of the northern semicircle comprised between the summer rising and the equinoctial rising. But no one ought to calculate by variable rules or measures in determining the length of fixed distances: nor yet should he make use of the phenomena of the heavens, which appear different when observed from different points, for distances which have their length determined by themselves and remain unchanged. The length of a country never varies, but depends upon itself; whereas, the equinoctial rising and setting, and the summer and winter rising and setting, depend not on themselves, but on our position [with respect to them]. As we shift from place to place, the equinoctial rising and setting, and the winter and summer rising and setting, shift with us; but the length of a continent always remains the same. To make theTanais and theNile the bounds of these continents, is nothing out of the way, but it is something strange to employ for this purpose the equinoctial rising and the summer rising.
§ 2.4.8 Of the many promontories formed by Europe, a better description is given byPolybius than byEratosthenes; but even his is not sufficient.Eratosthenes only names three; one at thePillars of Hercules, whereIberia is situated; a second at theStrait of Sicily, and containingItaly; the third terminated by the Cape ofMalea, comprising all the countries situated between theAdriatic, theEuxine, and theTanais. The two former of thesePolybius describes in the same manner asEratosthenes, but the third, which is equally terminated by the Cape ofMalea and CapeSounion, [he makes to] comprehend the whole of Greece,Illyria, and some portion ofThrace. [He supposes] a fourth, containing the ThracianChersonesus and the countries contiguous to the Strait, betwixtSestos andAbydos. This is occupied by theThracians. Also a fifth, about the KimmerianBosphorus and the mouth of theMaeotis. Let us allow [toPolybius] his two former [promontories], they are clearly distinguished by unmistakeable bays; the first by the bay betweenCalpe and theSacred Promontory whereGades is situated, as also by the sea between thePillars andSicily; the second by the latter sea and theAdriatic, although it may be objected that the extremity ofIapygia, being a promontory in itself, causesItaly to have a double cape. But as for the remaining [promontories ofPolybius], they are plainly much more irregular, and composed of many parts, and require some other division. So likewise his plan of dividing [Europe] into six parts, similar to that of the promontories, is liable to objection. However, we will set to rights each of these errors separately, as we meet with them, as well as the other blunders into which he has fallen in his description of Europe, and the journey round Africa. For the present we think that we have sufficiently dwelt on those of our predecessors whom we have thought proper to introduce as testimonies in our behalf, that both in the matter of correction and addition we had ample cause to undertake the present work.
§ 2.5.1 AFTER these criticisms on the writers who have preceded us, we must now confine our attention to the fulfilment of our promise. We start with a maxim we laid down at the commencement, that whoever undertakes to write a Chorography, should receive as axioms certain physical and mathematical propositions, and frame the rest of his work in accordance with, and in full reliance on, these principles. We have already stated [our opinion], that neither builder nor architect could build house or city properly and as it ought to be, unless acquainted with the climax of the place, its position in respect to celestial appearances, its shape, magnitude, degree of heat and cold, and similar facts; much less should he [be without such information] who undertakes to describe the situation of the various regions of the inhabited earth. Represent to the mind on one and the same plane-surfaceIberia andIndia with the intermediate countries, and define likewise the west, the east, and the south, which are common to every country. To a man already acquainted with the arrangement and motions of the heavens, and aware that in reality the surface of the earth is spherical, although here for the sake of illustration represented as a plane, this will give a sufficiently exact idea of the geographical [position of the various countries], but not to one who is unacquainted with those matters. The tourist travelling over vast plains like those ofBabylon, or journeying by sea, may fancy that the whole country stretched before, behind, and on either side of him is a plane-surface; he may be unacquainted with the counterindications of the celestial phenomena, and with the motions and appearance of the sun and stars, in respect to us. But such facts as these should ever be present to the mind of those who compose Geographies The traveller, whether by sea or land, is directed by certain common appearances, which answer equally for the direction both of the unlearned and of the man of the world. Ignorant of astronomy, and unacquainted with the varied aspect of the heavens, he beholds the sun rise and set, and attain the meridian, but without considering how this takes place. Such knowledge could not aid the object he has in view, any more than to know whether the country he chances to be in may be under the same latitude as his own or not. Even should he bestow a slight attention to the subject, on all mathematical points he will adopt the opinions of the place; and every country has certain mistaken views of these matters. But it is not for any particular nation, nor for the man of the world who cares nothing for abstract mathematics, still less is it for the reaper or ditcher, that the geographer labours; but it is for him who is convinced that the earth is such as mathematicians declare it to be, and who admits every other fact resulting from this hypothesis. He requests that those who approach him shall have already settled this in their minds as a fact, that they may be able to lend their whole attention to other points. He will advance nothing which is not a consequence of these primary facts; therefore those who hear him, if they have a knowledge of mathematics, will readily be able to turn his instructions to account; for those who are destitute of this information he does not pretend to expound Geography.
§ 2.5.2 Those who write on the science of Geography should trust entirely for the arrangement of the subject they are engaged on to the geometers, who have measured the whole earth; they in their turn to astronomers; and these again to natural philosophers. Now natural philosophy is one of the perfect sciences. The "perfect sciences" they define as those which, depending on no external hypothesis, have their origin, and the evidence of their propositions, in themselves. Here are a few of the facts established by natural philosophers. The earth and heavens are spheroidal. The tendency of all bodies having weight, is to a centre. Further, the earth being spheroidal, and having the same centre as the heavens, is motionless, as well as the axis which passes through both it and the heavens. The heavens turn round both the earth and its axis, from east to west. The fixed stars turn round with it, at the same rate as the whole. These fixed stars follow in their course parallel circles; the principal of which are, the equator, the two tropics, and the arctic circles. While the planets, the sun, and the moon, describe certain oblique circles comprehended within the zodiac. Admitting these points in whole or in part, astronomers proceed to treat of other matters, [such as] the motions [of the stars], their revolutions, eclipses, size, relative distance, and a thousand similar particulars. On their side, geometers, when measuring the size of the entire earth, avail themselves of the data furnished by the natural philosopher and astronomer; and the geographer on his part makes use of those of the geometer.
§ 2.5.3 The heavens and the earth must be supposed to be divided each into five zones, and the celestial zones to possess the same names as those below. The motives for such a division into zones we have already detailed. These zones may be distinguished by circles drawn parallel to the equator, on either side of it. Two of these will separate the torrid from the temperate zones, and the remaining two, the temperate from the frigid. To each celestial circle there shall be one corresponding on earth, and bearing the same name, and likewise zone for zone. The [two] zones capable of being inhabited, are styled temperate. The remaining [three] are uninhabitable, one on account of the heat, the others because of the extreme cold. The same is the case with regard to the tropical, and also to the arctic circles, in respect of those countries for which arctic circles can be said to exist. Circles on the earth are supposed, corresponding to those in the heavens, and bearing the same name, one for one. As the whole heaven is separated into two parts by its equator, it follows that the earth must, by its equator, be similarly divided. The two hemispheres, both celestial and terrestrial, are distinguished into north and south. Likewise the torrid zone, which is divided into two halves by the equator, is distinguished as having a northern and southern side. Hence it is evident that of the two temperate zones, one should be called northern, the other southern, according to the hemisphere to which it belongs. The northern hemisphere is that containing the temperate zone, in which looking from east to west, you will have the pole on your right hand, and the equator on the left, or, in which, looking south, the west will be on the right hand, and the east on the left. The southern hemisphere is exactly the contrary to this. It is clear that we are in one or other of these hemispheres, namely, the north; we cannot be in both: "Broad rivers roll, and awful floods between, But chief the ocean." [Od. xi.] 156, 157. And next is the torrid zone. But neither is there any ocean in the midst of the earth wherein we dwell, dividing the whole thereof, nor yet have we any torrid region. Nor is there any portion of it to be found in which the climata are opposite to those which have been described as characterizing the northern temperate zone.
§ 2.5.4 Assuming these data, and availing himself likewise of astronomical observations, by which the position of every place is properly determined, whether with respect to the circles parallel to the equator, or to those which cut these latter at right angles, in the direction of the poles, the geometer measures the region in which he dwells, and [judges of the extent of] others by comparing the distance [between the corresponding celestial signs]. By this means he discovers the distance from the equator to the pole, which is a quarter of the largest circle of the earth; having obtained this, he has only to multiply by four, the result is the [measure of the] perimeter of the globe. In the same manner as he who takes the measures of the earth, borrows the foundation of his calculations from the astronomer, who himself is indebted to the natural philosopher, so in like manner the geographer adopts certain facts laid down as established by the geometer, before setting forth his description of the earth we inhabit; its size, form, nature, and the proportion it bears to the whole earth. These latter points are the peculiar business of the geographer. He will next enter on a particular description of every thing deserving notice, whether on land or sea; he will likewise point out whatever has been improperly stated by those who have preceded him, especially by those who are regarded as chief authorities in these matters.
§ 2.5.5 Let it be supposed that the earth and sea together form a spheroidal body, and preserve one and the same level in all the seas. For though some portions of the earth may be higher, yet this bears so small a relation to the size of the whole mass, as need not be noticed. The spheroid in consequence is not so minutely exact as one might be made by the aid of a turner's instrument, or as would answer the definition of a geometer, still in general appearance, and looked at roughly, it is a spheroid. Let the earth be supposed to consist of five zones, with (1.) the equatorial circle described round it, (2.) another parallel to this, and defining the frigid zone of the northern hemisphere, and (3.) a circle passing through the poles, and cutting the two preceding circles at right angles. The northern hemisphere contains two quarters of the earth, which are bounded by the equator and the circle passing through the poles. Each of these [quarters] should be supposed to contain a four-sided district, its northern side being composed of one half of the parallel next the pole; its southern, by the half of the equator; and its remaining sides, by [two] segments of the circle drawn through the poles, opposite to each other, and equal in length. In one of these quadrilaterals (which of them is of no consequence) the earth that we inhabit is situated, surrounded by sea, and similar to an island. This, as we said before, is evident both to our senses and to our reason. But should any one doubt thereof, it makes no difference so far as Geography is concerned, whether you suppose the portion of the earth we inhabit to be an island, or only admit what we know from experience, viz. that whether you start from the east or west, you may sail all round it. Certain intermediate spaces may have been left [unexplored], but these are as likely to be occupied by sea, as uninhabited lands. The object of the geographer is to describe known countries; those which are unknown he passes over equally with those beyond the limits of the inhabited earth. It will therefore be sufficient for describing the contour of the island we have been speaking of, if we join by a right line the utmost points which, up to this time, have been explored by voyagers along the coast on either side.
§ 2.5.6 Let it be supposed that this island is contained in one of the above quadrilaterals; we must obtain its apparent magnitude by subtracting our hemisphere from the whole extent of the earth, from this take the half, and from this again the quadrilateral, in which we state our earth to be situated. We may judge also by analogy of the figure of the whole earth, by supposing that it accords with those parts with which we are acquainted. Now as the portion of the northern hemisphere, between the equator and the parallel next the [north] pole, resembles a vertebre or joint of the back-bone in shape, and as the circle which passes through the pole divides at the same time the hemisphere and the vertebre into two halves, thus forming the quadrilateral; it is clear that this quadrilateral to which theAtlantic is adjacent, is but the half of the vertebre; while at the same time the inhabited earth, which is an island in this, and shaped like a chlamys or soldier's cloak, occupies less than the half of the quadrilateral. This is evident from geometry, also from the extent of the surrounding sea, which covers the extremities of the continents on either side, compressing them into a smaller figure, and thirdly, by the greatest length and breadth [of the earth itself]. The length being 70,000 stadia, enclosed almost entirely by a sea, impossible to navigate owing to its wildness and vast extent, and the breadth 30,000 stadia, bounded by regions rendered uninhabitable on account either of their intense heat or cold. That portion of the quadrilateral which is unfitted for habitation on account of the heat, contains in breadth 8800 stadia, and in its greatest length 126,000 stadia, which is equal to one half of the equator, and larger than one half the inhabited earth; and what is left is still more.
§ 2.5.7 These calculations are nearly synonymous with those furnished byHipparchus, who tells us, that supposing the size of the globe as stated byEratosthenes to be correct, we can then subtract from it the extent of the inhabited earth, since in noting the celestial appearances [as they are seen] in different countries, it is not of much importance whether we make use of this measure, or that furnished by later writers. Now as the whole circle of the equator according toEratosthenes contains 252,000 stadia, the quarter of this would be 63,000, that is, the space from the equator to the pole contains fifteen of the sixty divisions into which the equator itself is divided. There are four [divisions] between the equator and the summer tropic or parallel passing throughSyene. The distances for each locality are calculated by the astronomical observations. It is evident thatSyene is under the tropic, from the fact that during the summer solstice the gnomon at mid-day casts no shadow there. As for the meridian ofSyene, it follows very nearly the course of theNile fromMeroe toAlexandria, a distance of about 10,000 stadia.Syene itself is situated about mid-way between these places, consequently from thence toMeroe is a distance of 5000 stadia. Advancing 3000 stadia southward in a right line, we come to lands unfitted for habitation on account of the heat. Consequently the parallel which bounds these places, and which is the same as that of the Cinnamon Country, is to be regarded as the boundary and commencement of the habitable earth on the south. If, then, 3000 stadia be added to the 5000 betweenSyene andMeroe, there will be altogether 8000 stadia [fromSyene] to the [southern] extremity of the habitable earth. But fromSyene to the equator there are 16,800 stadia, (for such is the amount of the four-sixtieths, each sixtieth being equivalent to 4200 stadia,) and consequently from the [southern] boundaries of the habitable earth to the equator there are 8800 stadia, and fromAlexandria 21,800. Again, every one is agreed that the voyage fromAlexandria toRhodes, and thence byCaria andIonia to theTroad,Byzantium, and theDnieper, is in a straight line with the course of theNile. Taking therefore these distances, which have been ascertained by voyages, we have only to find out how far beyond theDnieper the land is habitable, (being careful always to continue in the same straight line,) and we shall arrive at a knowledge of the northern boundaries of our earth. Beyond theDnieper dwell theRoxolani, the last of theScythians with which we are acquainted; they are nevertheless more south than the farthest nations we know of beyondBritain. Beyond theseRoxolani the country is uninhabitable on account of the severity of the climate. TheSauromati who live around theMaeotis, and the otherScythians as far as theScythians of the East, dwell farther south.
§ 2.5.8 It is true thatPytheas ofMarseilles affirms that the farthest country north of theBritish islands isThule; for which place he says the summer tropic and the arctic circle is all one. But he records no other particulars concerning it; [he does not say] whetherThule is an island, or whether it continues habitable up to the point where the summer tropic becomes one with the arctic circle. For myself, I fancy that the northern boundaries of the habitable earth are greatly south of this. Modern writers tell us of nothing beyondIerne, which lies just north ofBritain, where the people live miserably and like savages on account of the severity of the cold. It is here in my opinion the bounds of the habitable earth ought to be fixed. If on the one hand the parallels ofByzantium andMarseilles are the same, asHipparchus asserts on the faith ofPytheas, (for he says that atByzantium the gnomon indicates the same amount of shadow asPytheas gives forMarseilles,) and at the same time the parallel of theDnieper is distant fromByzantium about 3800 stadia, it follows, if we take into consideration the distance betweenMarseilles andBritain, that the circle which passes over theDnieper traversesBritain as well. But the truth is thatPytheas, who so frequently misleads people, deceives in this instance too. It is generally admitted that a line drawn from thePillars of Hercules, and passing over theStrait [ofMessina ],Athens, andRhodes, would lie under the same parallel of latitude. It is likewise admitted, that the line in passing from thePillars to theStrait of Sicily divides the Mediterranean through the midst. Navigators tell us that the greatest distance fromKeltica toLibya, starting from the bottom of the Galatic Bay, is 5000 stadia, and that this is likewise the greatest breadth of the Mediterranean. Consequently from the said line to the bottom of the bay is 2500 stadia; but toMarseilles the distance is rather less, in consequence of that city being more to the south than the bottom of the bay. But since fromRhodes toByzantium is about 4900 stadia, it follows thatByzantium must be far north ofMarseilles. The distance from this latter city toBritain is about the same as fromByzantium to theDnieper. How far it may be fromBritain to the island ofIerne is not known. As to whether beyond it there may still be habitable lands, it is not our business to inquire, as we stated before. It is sufficient for our science to determine this in the same manner that we did the southern boundaries. We there fixed the bounds of the habitable earth at 3000 stadia south ofMeroe (not that these were its exact limits, but because they were sufficiently near); so in this instance they should be placed about the same number of stadia north ofBritain, certainly not more than 4000. It would not serve any political purpose to be well acquainted with these distant places and the people who inhabit them; especially if they are islands whose inhabitants can neither injure us, nor yet benefit us by their commerce. The Romans might easily have conqueredBritain, but they did not care to do so, as they perceived there was nothing to fear from the inhabitants, (they not being powerful enough to attack us,) and that they would gain nothing by occupying the land. Even now it appears that we gain more by the customs they pay, than we could raise by tribute, after deducting the wages of the soldiers necessary for guarding the island and exacting the taxes. And the other islands adjacent to this would be still more unproductive.
§ 2.5.9 If, then, to the distance betweenRhodes and theDnieper be added four thousand stadia north of the latter place, the whole would come to 12,700 stadia; and since fromRhodes to the southern limit of the habitable earth there are 16,600 stadia, its total breadth from north to south would be under 30,000 stadia. Its length from west to east is stated at 70,000 stadia, the distance being measured from the extremities ofIberia to those ofIndia, partly over the land and partly across the sea. That this length is contained within the quadrilateral aforesaid, is proved by the proportion borne by these parallels to the equator. Thus the length of the habitable earth is above twice its breadth. It has been compared in figure to a chlamys, or soldier's cloak, because if every part be carefully examined, it will be found that its breadth is greatly diminished towards the extremities, especially in the west.
§ 2.5.10 We have now been tracing upon a spherical surface the region which we state to be occupied by the habitable earth; and whoever would represent the real earth as near as possible by artificial means, should make a globe like that ofCrates, and upon this describe the quadrilateral within which his chart of geography is to be placed. For this purpose, however, a large globe is necessary, since the section mentioned, though but a very small portion of the entire sphere, must be capable of properly containing all the regions of the habitable earth, and presenting an accurate view of them to all those who wish to consult it. Any one who is able will certainly do well to obtain such a globe. But it should have a diameter of not less than ten feet: those who cannot obtain a globe of this size, or one nearly as large, had better draw their chart on a planesurface, of not less than seven feet. Draw straight lines, some parallel, for the parallels [of latitude], and others at right angles to these; we may easily imagine how the eye can transfer the figure and extent [of these lines] from a plane-surface to one that is spherical. What we have just observed of the circles in general, may be said with equal truth touching the oblique circles. On the globe it is true that the meridians of each country passing the pole have a tendency to unite in a single point, nevertheless on the planesurface of the map, there would be no advantage if the right lines alone which should represent the meridians were drawn slightly to converge. The necessity for such a proceeding would scarcely ever be really felt. Even on our globe itself the tendency of those meridians (which are transferred to the map as right lines) to converge is not much, nor any thing near so obvious as their circular tendency.
§ 2.5.11 In what follows we shall suppose the chart drawn on a plane-surface; and our descriptions shall consist of what we ourselves have observed in our travels by land and sea, and of what we conceive to be credible in the statements and writings of others. For ourselves, in a westerly direction we have travelled fromArmenia to that part of Tyrrhenia which is over againstSardinia; and southward, from theEuxine to the frontiers ofEthiopia. Of all the writers on Geography, not one can be mentioned who has travelled over a wider extent of the countries described than we have. Some may have gone farther to the west, but then they have never been so far east as we have; again, others may have been farther east, but not so far west; and the same with respect to north and south. However, in the main, both we and they have availed ourselves of the reports of others, from which to describe the form, the size, and the other peculiarities of the country, what they are and how many, in the same way that the mind forms its conceptions from the information of the senses. The figure, colour, and size of an apple, its scent, feel to the touch, and its flavour, are particulars communicated by the senses, from which the mind forms its conception of an apple. So in large figures, the senses observe the various parts, while the mind combines into one conception what is thus seen. And in like manner, men eager after knowledge, trusting to those who have been to various places, and to [the descriptions of] travellers in this or that country, gather into one sketch a view of the whole habitable earth. In the same way, the generals perform every thing, nevertheless, they are not present every where, but most of their success depends on others, since they are obliged to trust to messengers, and issue their commands in accordance with the reports of others. To pretend that those only can know who have themselves seen, is to deprive hearing of all confidence, which, after all, is a better servant of knowledge than sight itself.
§ 2.5.12 Writers of the present day can describe with more certainty [than formerly] theBritons, the Germans, and the dwellers on either side of theDanube, theGetae, theTyrigetae, theBastarnae, the tribes dwelling by theCaucasus, such as theAlbanians andIberians. We are besides possessed of a description ofHyrcania andBactriana in the Histories ofParthia written by such men asApollodorus ofArtemita, who leave detailed the boundaries [of those countries] with greater accuracy than other geographers. The entrance of a Roman army intoArabia Felix under the command of my friend and companionAelius Gallus, and the traffic of theAlexandrian merchants whose vessels pass up theNile andArabian Gulf toIndia, have rendered us much better acquainted with these countries than our predecessors were. I was withGallus at the time he was prefect ofEgypt, and accompanied him as far asSyene and the frontiers ofEthiopia, and I found that about one hundred and twenty ships sail from Myos-hormos toIndia, although, in the time of thePtolemies, scarcely any one would venture on this voyage and the commerce with the Indies.
§ 2.5.13 Our first and most imperative duty then, both in respect to science and to the necessities of the man of business, is to undertake to lay down the projection of the different countries on the chart in as clear a style as possible, and to signify at the same time the relation and proportion they bear to the whole earth. For such is the geographer's peculiar province. It belongs to another science to give an exact description of the whole earth, and of the entire vertebre of either zone, and as to whether the vertebre in the opposite quarter of the earth is inhabited. That such is the case is most probable, but not that it is inhabited by the same race of men as dwell with us. And it must therefore be regarded as another habitable earth. We however have only to describe our own.
§ 2.5.14 In its figure the habitable earth resembles a chlamys, or soldier's cloak, the greatest breadth of which would be indicated by a line drawn in the direction of theNile, commencing from the parallel of the Cinnamon Country, and the Island of theEgyptian Exiles, and terminating at the parallel ofIerna; and its length by a line drawn from the west at right angles to the former, passing by thePillars of Hercules and theStrait of Sicily toRhodes and theGulf of Issos, then proceeding along the chain of theTaurus, which dividesAsia, and terminating in the Eastern Ocean, betweenIndia and theScythians dwelling beyondBactriana. We must therefore fancy to ourselves a parallelogram, and within it a chlamys-shaped figure, described in such a manner that the length of the one figure may correspond to the length and size of the other, and likewise breadth to breadth. The habitable earth will therefore be represented by this kind of chlamys. We have before said that its breadth is marked out by parallels bounding its sides, and separating on either side the portions that are habitable from those that are not. On the north [these parallels] pass overIerna, and on the side of the torrid zone over the Cinnamon Country. These lines being produced east and west to the opposite extremities of the habitable earth, form, when joined by the perpendiculars falling from their extremities, a kind of parallelogram. That within this the habitable earth is contained is evident, since neither its greatest breadth nor length project beyond. That in configuration it resembles a chlamys is also clear, from the fact that at either end of its length, the extremities taper to a point. Owing to the encroachments of the sea, it also loses something in breadth. This we know from those who have sailed round its eastern and western points. They inform us that the island calledTaprobana is much to the south ofIndia, but that it is nevertheless inhabited, and is situated opposite to the island of theEgyptians and the Cinnamon Country, as the temperature of their atmospheres is similar. On the other side the country about the embouchure of theHyrcanian Sea is farther north than the farthestScythians who dwell beyondIndia, andIerna still more so. It is likewise stated of the country beyond thePillars of Hercules, that the most western point of the habitable earth is the promontory of theIberians named theSacred Promontory. It lies nearly in a line withGades, thePillars of Hercules, theStrait of Sicily, andRhodes; for they say that the horologes accord, as also the periodical winds, and the duration of the longest nights and days, which consist of fourteen and a half equinoctial hours. From the coast ofGades andIberia ......... is said to have been formerly observed.Posidonius relates, that from the top of a high house in a town about 400 stadia distant from the places mentioned, he perceived a star which he believed to beCanopus, both in consequence of the testimony of those who having proceeded a little to the south ofIberia affirmed that they could perceive it, and also of the tradition preserved atCnidus; for the observatory ofEudoxus, from whence he is reported to have viewedCanopus, is not much higher than these houses; andCnidus is under the same parallel asRhodes, which is likewise that ofGades and its sea-coast.
§ 2.5.15 Sailing thence,Libya lies to the south. Its most western portions project a little beyondGades; it afterwards forms a narrow promontory receding towards the east and south, and becoming slightly broader, till it touches upon the westernEthiopians, who are the last of the nations situated belowCarthage, and adjoin the parallel of the Cinnamon Country. They, on the contrary, who sail from theSacred Promontory, towards theArtabri, journey northwards, havingLusitania on the right hand. The remaining portion forms an obtuse angle towards the east as far as the extremities of thePyrenees which terminate at the ocean. Northward and opposite to this are the western coasts ofBritain. Northward and opposite to theArtabri are the islands denominatedCassiterides, situated in the high seas, but under nearly the same latitude asBritain. From this it appears to what a degree the extremities of the habitable earth are narrowed by the surrounding sea.
§ 2.5.16 Such being the configuration of the whole earth, it will be convenient to take two straight lines, cutting each other at right angles, and running the one through its greatest length, and the other through its breadth. The former of these lines will represent one of the parallels, and the latter one of the meridians. Afterwards we must imagine other lines parallel to either of these respectively, and dividing both the land and sea with which we are acquainted. By this means the form of the habitable earth will appear more clearly to be such as we have described it; likewise the extent of the various lines, whether traced through its length or breadth, and the latitudes [of places], will also be more clearly distinguished, whether north or south, as also [the longitudes] whether east or west. However, these right lines should be drawn through places that are known. Two have already been thus fixed upon, I mean the two middle [lines] running through its length and breadth, which have been already explained, and by means of these the others may easily be determined. These lines will serve us as marks to distinguish countries situated under the same parallel, and otherwise to determine different positions both in respect to the other portions of the earth, and also of the celestial appearances.
§ 2.5.17 The ocean it is which principally divides the earth into various countries, and moulds its form. It creates bays, seas, straits, isthmuses, peninsulas, and capes; while rivers and mountains serve to the same purpose. It is by these means that continents, nations, and the position of cities are capable of being clearly distinguished, together with those various other details of which a chorographical chart is full. Amongst these latter are the multitude of islands scattered throughout the seas, and along every coast; each of them distinguished by some good or bad quality, by certain advantages or disadvantages, due either to nature or to art. The natural advantages [of a place] should always be mentioned, since they are permanent. Advantages which are adventitious are liable to change, although the majority of those which have continued for any length of time should not be passed over, nor even those which, although but recent, have yet acquired some note and celebrity. For those which continue, come to be regarded by posterity not as works of art, but as the natural advantages of the place; these therefore it is evident we must notice. True it is, that to many a city we may apply the reflection ofDemosthenes onOlynthus and its neighbouring towns: "So completely have they vanished, that no one who should now visit their sites could say that they had ever been inhabited!" Still we are gratified by visiting these and similar localities, being desirous of beholding the traces of such celebrated places, and the tombs of famous men. In like manner we should record laws and forms of government no longer in existence, since these are serviceable to have in mind, equally with the remembrance of actions, whether for the sake of imitating or avoiding the like.
§ 2.5.18 Continuing our former sketch, we now state that the earth which we inhabit contains numerous gulfs, formed by the exterior sea or ocean which surrounds it. Of these there are four principal. The northern, called theCaspian, by others designated theHyrcanian Sea, thePersian andArabian Gulfs, formed by the [Southern] Sea, the one being nearly opposite to theCaspian, the other to theEuxine; the fourth, which in size is much more considerable than the others, is called the Internal and Our Sea. It commences in the west at the Strait of thePillars of Hercules, and continues in an easterly direction, but with varying breadth. Farther in, it becomes divided, and terminates in two gulfs; that on the left being called theEuxine Sea, while the other consists of the seas ofEgypt,Pamphylia, andIssos. All these gulfs formed by the exterior sea, have a narrow entrance; those of theArabian Gulf, however, and thePillars of Hercules are smaller than the rest. The land which surrounds these, as before remarked, consists of three divisions. Of these, the configuration of Europe is the most irregular.Libya, on the contrary, is the most regular; whileAsia holds a middle place between the two. In all of these continents, the regularity or irregularity of form relates merely to the interior coasts; the exterior, with the exception of the gulfs be fore mentioned, is unindented, and, as I have stated, resembles a chlamys in its form; any slight differences being of course overlooked, as in large matters what is insignificant passes for nothing. Since in geographical descriptions we not only aim at portraying the configuration and extent of various places, but also their common boundaries, we will remark here, as we have done before, that the coasts of the Internal Sea present a greater variety in their appearance than those of the Exterior [Ocean]; the former is also much better known, its climate is more temperate, and more civilized cities and nations are here than there. We are also anxious to be informed where the form of government, the arts, and whatever else ministers to intelligence, produce the greatest results. Interest will always lead us to where the relations of commerce and society are most easily established, and these are advantages to be found where government is administered, or rather where it is well administered. In each of these particulars, as before remarked, Our Sea possesses great advantages, and here therefore we will begin our description.
§ 2.5.19 This gulf, as before stated, commences at the Strait of thePillars; this at its narrowest part is said to be 70 stadia. Having sailed down a distance of 120 stadia, the shores widen considerably, especially to the left, and you behold a vast sea, bounded on the right by the shore ofLibya as far asCarthage, and on the opposite side by those ofIberia andKeltica as far asNarbonne andMarseilles, thence by theLigurian, and finally by theItalian coast to theStrait of Sicily. The eastern side of this sea is formed bySicily and the straits on either side of it. That nextItaly being 7 stadia [in breadth], and that nextCarthage 1500 stadia. The line drawn from thePillars to the lesser strait of 7 stadia, forms part of the line toRhodes and theTaurus, and intersects the sea under discussion about its middle; this line is said to be 12,000 stadia, which is accordingly the length of the sea. Its greatest breadth is about 5000 stadia, and extends from the Galatic Gulf, betweenMarseilles andNarbonne, to the opposite coast ofLibya. The portion of the sea which washesLibya is called the Libyan Sea; that surrounding the land opposite is designated by the respective names of theIberian, theLigurian, and theSardinian Seas, while the remaining portion as far asSicily is named theTyrrhenian sea. All along the coast between theTyrrhenian andLigurian Seas, there are numerous islands, the largest of which areSardinia andCyrnus, always exceptingSicily, which is larger and more fertile than any of our islands. The remainder are much smaller. Of this number are, in the high sea,Pandataria andPontia, and close to the shoreAethalia,Planasia,Pithecussa,Prochyta,Capriae,Leucosia, and many others On the other side of theLigurian shore, and along the rest of the coast as far as thePillars, there are but few islands; theGymnasiae andEbusus are of this number. There are likewise but few islands along the coasts ofLibya andSicily. We may mention howeverCossura,Aegimurus, and theLipari Islands, likewise called the Islands ofAeolus.
§ 2.5.20 AfterSicily and the straits on either side of it, there are other seas, for instance, that opposite theSyrtes and theCyrenaic, the Syrtes themselves, and the sea formerly called theAusonian, but which, as it flows into and forms part of the Sea ofSicily, is now included under the latter name. The sea opposite to the Syrtes and theCyrenaic is called the Libyan Sea; it extends as far as the Sea ofEgypt. The LesserSyrtes is about 1600 stadia in circumference. On either side of its mouth lie the islands ofMeninx andKerkina. The GreaterSyrtes is (according toEratosthenes) 5000 stadia in circuit, and in depth 1800, from theHesperides toAutomala, and the frontier which separates theCyrenaic from the rest ofLibya. According to others, its circumference is only 4000 stadia, its depth 1500 stadia, and the breadth at its mouth the same. The Sea ofSicily washesItaly, from theStrait ofRhegium toLocris, and also the eastern coast ofSicily fromMessene toSyracuse andPachynus. On the eastern side it reaches to the promontories ofCrete, surrounds the greater part ofPeloponnesus, and fills theGulf of Corinth. On the north it advances to theIapygian Promontory, the mouth of theIonian Sea, the southern parts ofEpirus, as far as theAmbracic Gulf, and the continuation of the coast which forms theCorinthian Gulf, near thePeloponnesus. TheIonian Sea forms part of what we now call theAdriatic.Illyria forms its right side, andItaly as far as the recess whereAquileia is situated, the left. TheAdriatic stretches north and west; it is long and narrow, being in length about 6000 stadia, and its greatest breadth 1200. There are many islands situated here opposite the coasts ofIllyria, such as theAbsyrtides, Cyrictica, and theLibyrnides, alsoIssa,Tragurium, theBlack Corcyra, andPharos. Opposite toItaly are the Islands ofDiomede. The Sea ofSicily is said to be 4500 stadia fromPachynus toCrete, and the same distance toTaenarus inLaconia. From the extremities ofIapygia to the bottom of theGulf of Corinth the distance is less than 3000 stadia, while fromIapygia toLibya it is more than 4000. In this sea are the Islands ofCorcyra andSybota, opposite the coasts ofEpirus; and beyond these, opposite theGulf of Corinth,Cephallenia,Ithaca,Zacynthus, and theEchinades.
§ 2.5.21 Next to the Sea ofSicily, are theCretan,Saronic, andMyrtoan Seas, comprised betweenCrete,Argia, andAttica. Their greatest breadth, measured fromAttica, is 1200 stadia, and their length not quite double the distance. Within are included the Islands ofCythera,Calauria,Aigina,Salamis, and certain of theCyclades. Adjacent to these are theAegean Sea, the Gulf ofMelas, theHellespont, theIcarian andCarpathian Seas, as far asRhodes,Crete,Cnidus, and the commencement ofAsia. [In these seas] are theCyclades, theSporades, and the islands oppositeCaria,Ionia, andAeolia, as far as theTroad, namely,Cos,Samos,Chios,Lesbos, andTenedos; likewise on the Grecian side as far asMacedonia and the borders ofThrace,Euboea,Scyros,Peparethus,Lemnos,Thasos,Imbros,Samothrace, and numerous others, of which it is our intention to speak in detail. The length of this sea is about 4000 stadia, or rather more, its breadth about 2000. It is surrounded by the coast ofAsia above mentioned, and by those of Greece fromSounion northwards to theThermaic Gulf and the Gulfs ofMacedonia, and as far as the ThracianChersonesus.
§ 2.5.22 Here too is the strait, seven stadia in length, which is betweenSestos andAbydos, and through which theAegean andHellespont communicate with another sea to the north, named thePropontis, and this again with another called theEuxine. This latter is, so to speak, a double sea, for towards its middle are two projecting promontories, one to the north, on the side of Europe, and the other opposite from the coast ofAsia, which leave only a narrow passage between them, and thus form two great seas. The European promontory is namedCriu-metopon; that ofAsia,Carambis. They are distant from each other about 2500 stadia. The length of the western portion of this sea fromByzantium to the outlets of theDnieper is 3800 stadia, its breadth 2000. Here is situated the Island ofLeuca. The eastern portion is oblong and terminates in the narrow recess in whichDioscurias is situated. In length it is 5000 stadia, or rather more, and in breadth about 3000. The entire circumference of theEuxine is about 25,000 stadia. Some have compared the shape of its circumference to aScythian bow when bent, the string representing the southern portions of theEuxine, (viz. the coast, from its mouth to the recess in whichDioscurias is situated; for, with the exception ofCarambis, the sinuosities of the shore are but trifling, so that it may be justly compared to a straight line,) and the remainder [of the circumference representing] the wood of the bow with its double curve, the uppermost very much rounded, the lower more in a straight line. So this sea forms two gulfs, the western much more rounded than the other.
§ 2.5.23 To the north of the eastern Gulf of thePontus, is the LakeMaeotis, whose perimeter is 9000 stadia or rather more. It communicates with theEuxine by means of the CimmerianBosphorus, and theEuxine with thePropontis by the ThracianBosphorus, for such is the name given to the Strait ofByzantium, which is four stadia in breadth. The length of thePropontis from theTroad toByzantium is stated to be 1500 stadia. Its breadth is about the same. It is in this sea that the Island of theCyziceni is situated, with the other islands around it.
§ 2.5.24 Such and so great is the extent of theAegean Sea towards the north. Again, starting fromRhodes, the [Mediterranean] forms the seas ofEgypt,Pamphylia, andIssus, extending in an easterly direction fromCilicia toIssus, a distance of 5000 stadia, along the coasts ofLycia,Pamphylia, and the whole ofCilicia. From thenceSyria,Phoenicia, andEgypt surround the sea to the south and west as far asAlexandria. The Island ofCyprus is situated in the Gulfs ofIssos andPamphylia, close to the Sea ofEgypt. The passage betweenRhodes andAlexandria from north [to south] is about 4000 stadia; sailing round the coasts it is double this distance.Eratosthenes informs us that, although the above is the distance according to some mariners, others avow distinctly that it amounts to 5000 stadia; while he himself, from observations of the shadows indicated by the gnomon, calculates it at 3750. That part of the Mediterranean Sea which washes the coasts ofCilicia andPamphylia together with the right side of theEuxine, thePropontis, and the sea-coast beyond this as far asPamphylia, form a kind of extensive Chersonesus, the isthmus of which is also large, and reaches from the sea nearTarsus to the city ofAmisus, and thence toThemiscyra, the plain of theAmazons. In fact the whole region within this line as far asCaria andIonia, and the nations dwelling on this side theHalys, is entirely surrounded by theAegean and the aforementioned parts of the Mediterranean andEuxine Seas. This is what we callAsia properly, although the whole continent bears the same name.
§ 2.5.25 To speak shortly, the southernmost point of Our Sea is the recess of the GreaterSyrtes; next to thisAlexandria inEgypt, and the mouths of theNile; while the most northerly is the mouth of theDnieper, or if theMaeotis be considered to belong to theEuxine, (and it certainly does appear to form a part of it,) the mouth of theTanais. The Strait at thePillars is the most westerly point, and the most easterly is the said recess, in whichDioscurias is situated; and not, asEratosthenes falsely states, theGulf of Issos, which is under the same meridian asAmisus andThemiscyra, and, if you will have it so,Sidene as far asPharnacia. Proceeding thence in an easterly direction toDioscurias, the distance by sea is above 3000 stadia, as will be seen more plainly in my detailed account of those countries. Such then is the Mediterranean.
§ 2.5.26 We must now describe the countries which surround it; and here we will begin from the same point, whence we commenced our description of the sea itself. Entering the Strait at thePillars,Libya, as far as the riverNile, is on the right hand, and to the left, on the other side of the Strait, is Europe, as far as theTanais.Asia bounds both these continents. We will commence with Europe, both because its figure is more varied, and also because it is the quarter most favourable to the mental and social ennoblement of man, and produces a greater portion of comforts than the other continents. Now the whole of Europe is habitable with the exception of a small part, which cannot be dwelt in, on account of the severity of the cold, and which borders on theHamaxoeci, who dwell by theTanais,Maeotis, andDnieper. The wintry and mountainous parts of the habitable earth would seem to afford by nature but a miserable means of existence; nevertheless, by good management, places scarcely inhabited by any but robbers, may be got into condition. Thus the Greeks, though dwelling amidst rocks and mountains, live in comfort, owing to their economy in government and the arts, and all the other appliances of life. Thus too the Romans, after subduing numerous nations who were leading a savage life, either induced by the rockiness of their countries, or want of ports, or severity of the cold, or for other reasons scarcely habitable, have taught the arts of commerce to many who were formerly in total ignorance, and spread civilization amongst the most savage. Where the climate is equable and mild, nature herself does much towards the production of these advantages. As in such favoured regions every thing inclines to peace, so those which are sterile generate bravery and a disposition to war. These two races receive mutual advantages from each other, the one aiding by their arms, the other by their husbandry, arts, and institutions. Harm must result to both when failing to act in concert, but the advantage will lie on the side of those accustomed to arms, except in instances where they are overpowered by multitudes. This continent is very much favoured in this respect, being interspersed with plains and mountains, so that every where the foundations of husbandry, civilization, and hardihood lie side by side. The number of those who cultivate the arts of peace, is, however, the most numerous, which preponderance over the whole is mainly due to the influence of the government, first of the Greeks, and afterwards of theMacedonians and Romans. Europe has thus within itself resources both for war [and peace]. It is amply supplied with warriors, and also with men fitted for the labours of agriculture, and the life of the towns. It is likewise distinguished for producing in perfection those fruits of the earth necessary to life, and all the useful metals. Perfumes and precious stones must be imported from abroad, but as far as the comfort of life is concerned, the want or the possession of these can make no difference. The country likewise abounds incattle, while of wild beasts the number is but small. Such is the general nature of this continent.
§ 2.5.27 We will now describe separately the various countries into which it is divided. The first of these on the west isIberia, which resembles the hide of anox [spread out]; the eastern portions, which correspond to the neck, adjoining the neighbouring country of Gaul. The two countries are divided on this side by the chain of mountains called thePyrenees; on all its other sides it is surrounded by sea; on the south, as far as thePillars, by Our Sea; and thence to the northern extremity of thePyrenees by theAtlantic. The greatest length of this country is about 6000 stadia, its breadth 5000.
§ 2.5.28 East of this isKeltica, which extends as far as theRhine. Its northern side is washed by the entire of theBritish Channel, for this island lies opposite and parallel to it throughout, extending as much as 5000 stadia in length. Its eastern side is bounded by the riverRhine, whose stream runs parallel with thePyrenees; and its southern side commencing from theRhine, [is bounded] partly by theAlps, and partly by Our Sea; where what is called the Galatic Gulf runs in, and on this are situated the far-famed cities ofMarseilles andNarbonne. Right opposite to the Gulf on the other side of the land, lies another Gulf, called by the same name, Galatic, looking towards the north andBritain. It is here that the breadth ofKeltica is the narrowest, being contracted into an isthmus less than 3000 stadia, but more than 2000. Within this region there is a mountain ridge, named MountCemmenus, which runs nearly at right angles to thePyrenees, and terminates in the central plains ofKeltica. TheAlps, which are a very lofty range of mountains, form a curved line, the convex side of which is turned towards the plains ofKeltica, mentioned before, and MountCemmenus, and the concave towardsLiguria andItaly. TheAlps are inhabited by numerous nations, but allKeltic with the exception of theLigurians, and these, though of a different race, closely resemble them in their manner of life. They inhabit that portion of theAlps which is next theApennines, and also a part of theApennines themselves. This latter mountain ridge traverses the whole length ofItaly from north to south, and terminates at theStrait of Sicily.
§ 2.5.29 The first parts ofItaly are the plains situated under theAlps, as far as the recess of theAdriatic and the neighbouring places. The parts beyond form a narrow and long slip, resembling a peninsula, traversed, as I have said, throughout its length by theApennines; its length is 7000 stadia, but its breadth is very unequal. The seas which form the peninsula ofItaly are, theTyrrhenian sea, which commences from theLigurian, theAusonian, and theAdriatic.
§ 2.5.30 AfterItaly andKeltica, the remainder of Europe extends towards the east, and is divided into two by theDanube. This river flows from west to east, and discharges itself into theEuxine Sea, leaving on its left the entire ofGermania commencing from theRhine, as well as the whole of theGetae, theTyrigetae, theBastarni, and theSauromati, as far as the riverTanais, and the LakeMaeotis, on its right being the whole ofThrace andIllyria, and in fine the rest of Greece. Fronting Europe lie the islands which we have mentioned. Without thePillars,Gadeira, theCassiterides, and theBritannic Isles. Within thePillars are theGymnesian Islands, the other little islands of thePhoenicians, theMarseillais, and theLigurians; those frontingItaly as far as the islands ofAeolus andSicily, and the whole of those alongEpirus and Greece, as far asMacedonia and the ThracianChersonesus.
§ 2.5.31 From theTanais and theMaeotis commences [Asia] on this side theTaurus; beyond these is [Asia] beyond theTaurus. For since this continent is divided into two by the chain of theTaurus, which extends from the extremities ofPamphylia to the shores of the Eastern Sea, inhabited by theIndians and neighbouringScythians, the Greeks naturally called that part of the continent situated north of these mountains [Asia] on this side theTaurus, and that on the south [Asia] beyond theTaurus. Consequently the parts adjacent to theMaeotis andTanais are on this side theTaurus. The first of these is the territory between theCaspian Sea and theEuxine, bounded on one side by theTanais, the Exterior Ocean, and the Sea ofHyrcania; on the other by the isthmus where it is narrowest from the recess of theEuxine to theCaspian. Secondly, but still on this side theTaurus, are the countries above the Sea ofHyrcania as far as theIndians andScythians, who dwell along the said sea andMount Imaus. These countries are possessed on the one side by theMaeotae, and the people dwelling between the Sea ofHyrcania and theEuxine as far as theCaucasus, theIberians andAlbanians, viz. theSauromatians,Scythians, Achtaeans,Zygi, andHeniochi: on the other side beyond the Sea ofHyrcania, by theScythians,Hyrcanians,Parthians,Bactrians,Sogdians, and the other nations ofIndia farther towards the north. To the south, partly by the Sea ofHyrcania, and partly by the whole isthmus which separates this sea from theEuxine, is situated the greater part ofArmenia,Colchis, the whole ofCappadocia as far as theEuxine, and theTibaranic nations. Further [west] is the country designated on this side theHalys, containing on the side of theEuxine andPropontis thePaphlagonians,Bithynians,Mysians, andPhrygia on theHellespont, which comprehends theTroad; and on the side of theAegean and adjacent seasAeolia,Ionia,Caria, andLycia. Inland is thePhrygia which contains that portion of Gallo-Graecia styledGalatia,Phrygia Epictetus, theLycaonians, and theLydians.
§ 2.5.32 Next these on this side theTaurus are the mountaineers ofParopamisus, and various tribes ofParthians,Medes,Armenians,Cilicians, with "theLycaonians," andPisidians. After these mountaineers come the people dwelling beyond theTaurus. First amongst these isIndia, a nation greater and more flourishing than any other; they extend as far as the Eastern Sea and the southern part of theAtlantic. In the most southerly part of this sea opposite toIndia is situated the island ofTaprobana, which is not less thanBritain. BeyondIndia to the west, and leaving the mountains [of theTaurus] on the right, is a vast region, miserably inhabited, on account of the sterility of its soil, by men of different races, who are absolutely in a savage state. They are namedArians, and extend from the mountains toGedrosia andCarmania. Beyond these towards the sea are thePersians, the Susians, and theBabylonians, situated along thePersian Gulf, besides several smaller neighbouring states. On the side of the mountains and amidst the mountains are theParthians, theMedes, theArmenians, and the nations adjoining these, together withMesopotamia. BeyondMesopotamia are the countries on this side theEuphrates; viz. the whole ofArabiaFelix, bounded by the entireArabian andPersian Gulfs, together with the country of theScenitae and Phylarchi, who are situated along theEuphrates and inSyria. Beyond theArabian Gulf and as far as theNile dwell theEthiopians andArabians, and next these theEgyptians, Syrians, andCilicians, both those styled Trachiotae and others besides, and last of all thePamphylians.
§ 2.5.33 AfterAsia comesLibya, which adjoinsEgypt andEthiopia. The coast next us, fromAlexandria almost to thePillars, is in a straight line, with the exception of theSyrtes, the sinuosities of some moderately sized bays, and the projection of the promontories by which they are formed. The side next the ocean fromEthiopia up to a certain point is almost parallel to the former; but after this the southern portions become narrowed into a sharp peak, extending a little beyond thePillars of Hercules, and giving to the country something the figure of a trapezium. Its appearance, both by the accounts of other writers, and also the description given to ourselves byCnaeus Piso, who was governor of this province, is that of a panther's skin, being dotted over with habitations surrounded by parched and desert land: these habitations theEgyptians callAuases. This continent offers besides several other peculiarities, which may be said to divide it into three distinct portions. Most of the coast next us is very fertile, more especially about theCyrenaic and the parts aboutCarthage, as far asMaurusia and thePillars of Hercules. Next the ocean it is likewise tolerably fitted for the habitation of man; but not so the centre of the country, which produces silphium; this for the most part is barren, rugged, and sandy; and the same is the case with regard to the whole ofAsia lying under the same right line which traversesEthiopia, theTroglodytic,Arabia, and the part ofGedrosia occupied by theIchthyophagi. The people inhabitingLibya are for the most part unknown to us, as it has rarely been entered, either by armies or adventurers. But few of its inhabitants from the farther parts come amongst us, and their accounts are both incomplete and not to be relied on. The sum of what they say is as follows. Those which are most southern are calledEthiopians. North of these the principal nations are theGaramantes, thePharusians, and theNigritae. Still farther north are theGaetuli. Close to the sea, and adjoining it nextEgypt, and as far as theCyrenaic, dwell theMarmaridae. Above theCyrenaic and theSyrtes are thePsylli andNasamones, and certain of theGaetuli; and after them theAsbystae andByzacii, as far asCarthage.Carthage is vast. Adjoining it are theNumidae ;of these people the tribes best known to us are called theMasylies and theMasuaesylii. The most westerly are theMaurusians. The whole land, fromCarthage to thePillars of Hercules, is fertile. Nevertheless it abounds in wild beasts no less than the interior; and it does not seem improbable that the cause why the name of Nomades, or Wanderers, was bestowed on certain of these people originated in their not being able anciently to devote themselves to husbandry on account of the wild beasts. At the present day, when they are well skilled in hunting, and are besides assisted by the Romans in their rage for the spectacle of fights with beasts, they are both masters of the beasts and of husbandry. This finishes what we have to say on the continents.
§ 2.5.34 It now remains for us to speak of the climata. Of these too we shall give but a general description, commencing with those lines which we have denominated elementary, namely, those which determine the greatest length and breadth of the [habitable earth], but especially its breadth. To enter fully into this subject is the duty of astronomers. This has been done byHipparchus, who has noted down (as he says) the differences of the heavenly appearances for every degree of that quarter of the globe in which our habitable earth is situated, namely, from the equator to the north pole. What is beyond our habitable earth it is not however the business of the geographer to consider. Nor yet even in regard to the various parts of the habitable earth must too minute and numerous differences be noticed, since to the man of the world they are perplexing; it will suffice to give the most striking and simple of the statements ofHipparchus. Assuming, as he does himself after the assertion ofEratosthenes, that the circumference of the earth is 252,000 stadia, the differences of the [celestial] phenomena will not be great for each [degree] within the limits between which the habitable earth is contained. Supposing we cut the grand circle of the earth into 360 divisions, each of these divisions will consist of 700 stadia. This is the calculation adopted by [Hipparchus] to fix the distances, which [as we said] should be taken under the before-mentioned meridian ofMeroe. He commences at the regions situated under the equator, and stopping from time to time at every 700 stadia along the whole length of the meridian above mentioned, proceeds to describe the celestial phenomena as they appear from each. But the equator is not the place for us to start from. For even if there be there a habitable region, as some suppose, it forms a habitable earth to itself, a narrow slip enclosed by the regions uninhabitable on account of the heat; and can be no part of our habitable earth. Now the geographer should attend to none but our own habitable earth, which is confined by certain boundaries; on the south by the parallel which passes over the Cinnamon Country; on the north by that which passes overIerna. But keeping in mind the scheme of our geography, we have no occasion to mark all the places comprehended within this distance, nor yet all the celestial phenomena. We must however commence, asHipparchus does, with the southern regions.
§ 2.5.35 He tells us that the people who dwell under the parallel of the Cinnamon Country, which he places at 3000 stadia south ofMeroe, and 8800 [north] of the equator, live nearly at equal distances between the equator and the summer tropic which passes bySyene; forSyene is 5000 stadia [north] ofMeroe. They are the first for whom the whole [constellation] of the Lesser Bear is comprised within the Artic Circle, and to whom it is always visible. For the bright and most southern star, at the tip of the tail, is here contained within the Arctic Circle, and appears to touch the horizon. TheArabian Gulf lies eastward parallel to the said meridian. Its egress into the Exterior Ocean is [in the same latitude as] the Cinnamon Country, the place where anciently they used to hunt the elephants. The parallel of the Cinnamon Country on the one side passes a little south ofTaprobana, or perhaps over its southern extremity; and on the other side over the most southern parts ofLibya.
§ 2.5.36 AtMeroe andPtolemais in theTroglodytic the longest day consists of thirteen equinoctial hours. These cities are at nearly equal distances between the equator andAlexandria, the preponderance on the side of the equator being only 1800 stadia. The parallel ofMeroe passes on one side over unknown countries, and on the other over the extremities ofIndia. AtSyene, and atBerenice, which is situated on theArabian Gulf and in theTroglodytice, at the summer solstice the sun is vertical, and the longest day consists of thirteen equinoctial hours and a half, and the whole of the Greater Bear appears within the Arctic Circle, with the exception of his thighs, the tip of his tail, and one of the stars composing his body. The parallel ofSyene traverses on one side the portion ofGedrosia occupied by theIchthyophagi, andIndia; and on the other side the countries situated south ofCyrene by rather less than 5000 stadia.
§ 2.5.37 In all the countries situated between the tropic and the equatorial circle, the shadows fall [alternately] on either side, north and south. In those which are north ofSyene and beyond the summer tropic the shadows at mid-day fall to the north. The former are called amphiscii, the latter heteroscii. There is also another method of determining what places are under the tropic, which we spoke of in our observations on the zones. The soil is sandy, arid, and produces nothing but silphium, while more to the south the land is well irrigated and fertile.
§ 2.5.38 In the countries situated about 400 stadia south of the parallel ofAlexandria andCyrene, where the longest day consists of fourteen equinoctial hours,Arcturus passes the zenith, slightly declining towards the south. AtAlexandria at the time of the equinox the proportion which the gnomon bears to the shadow is as five to seven. Thus they are south ofCarthage 1300 stadia, that is, admitting that inCarthage at the time of the equinox the proportion which the gnomon bears to the shadow is as eleven to seven. This parallel on the one side passes byCyrene and the regions 900 stadia south ofCarthage as far as the midst ofMaurusia; and on the other side throughEgypt,Coelosyria, UpperSyria,Babylonia,Susiana,Persia,Carmania, UpperGedrosia, andIndia.
§ 2.5.39 AtPtolemais inPhoenicia, and atSidon andTyre, the longest day consists of fourteen hours and a quarter. These cities are north ofAlexandria by about 1600 stadia, and north ofCarthage about 700. In thePeloponnesus, and about the middle ofRhodes, atXanthus inLycia, or a little to the south of this place, and at 400 stadia south ofSyracuse, the longest day consists of fourteen and a half equinoctial hours. These places are distant fromAlexandria 3640 stadia. . . . This parallel, according toEratosthenes, passes throughCaria,Lycaonia,Cataonia,Media, theCaspian Gates, andIndia next theCaucasus.
§ 2.5.40 In the parts of theTroad nextAlexandria inAmphipolis,Apollonia inEpirus, the countries just south ofRome and north ofNeapolis, the longest day consists of fifteen hours. This parallel is distant from that ofAlexandria inEgypt 7000 stadia to the north, above 28,800 stadia north of the equator, and 3400 stadia from the parallel ofRhodes; it is south ofByzantium,Nicaae, andMarseilles 1500 stadia. The parallel ofLysimachia is a little to the north, and according toEratosthenes passes throughMysia,Paphlagonia,Sinope,Hyrcania, andBactra.
§ 2.5.41 AboutByzantium the longest day consists of fifteen and a quarter equinoctial hours; the proportion borne by the gnomon to the shadow at the summer solstice, is as 120 to 42, minus one-fifth. These places are distant from the middle ofRhodes about 4900 stadia, and 30,300 from the equator. Sailing into theEuxine and advancing 1400 stadia to the north, the longest day is found to consist of fifteen and a half equinoctial hours. These places are equi-distant between the pole and equatorial circle; the arctic circle is at their zenith, the star in the neck ofCassiopeia is within this circle, the star forming the right elbow ofPerseus being a little more to the north.
§ 2.5.42 In regions 3800 stadia north ofByzantium the longest day consists of sixteen equinoctial hours; the constellationCassiopeia being brought within the arctic circle. These regions are situated around [the mouth of] theDnieper and the southern parts of theMaeotis, at a distance from the equator of 34,100 stadia; and the northern part of the horizon during almost all the summer nights is illuminated by the light of the sun; a certain degree of light continuing from sunset to sunrise. For the summer tropic is distant from the horizon only the half and the twelfth part of a sign [of the zodiac], and this therefore is the greatest distance of the sun below the horizon at midnight. With us when the sun is at this distance from the horizon before sunrise and after sunset, the atmosphere is enlightened to the east and west respectively. In the winter the sun when at the highest is nine cubits above the horizon. These places, according toEratosthenes, are distant fromMeroe rather more than 23,000 stadia, for he says that [from the parallel ofMeroe] to theHellespont there are 18,000 stadia, and thence to theDnieper 5000 more. In regions distant 6300 stadia fromByzantium, and north of theMaeotis, the sun during the winter time is, when highest, six cubits [above the horizon]. The longest day consists of seventeen hours.
§ 2.5.43 The countries beyond this which border upon the regions uninhabitable on account of their cold, have no interest to the geographer. He who desires to learn about them, and the celestial phenomena whichHipparchus has described, but which we pass over as being too much in detail for our present undertaking, must seek for them in that author. The statements ofPosidonius concerning the periscii, the amphiscii, and the heteroscii are likewise too detailed. Still we must touch on these points sufficiently to explain his view, and to point out how far such matters are serviceable in geography, and how far not. The terms made use of refer to the shadows cast from the sun. The sun appears to the senses to describe a circle parallel to that of the earth. Of those people for whom each revolution of the earth produces a day and a night, the sun being carried first over, then under, the earth, some are denominated amphiscii, others heteroscii. The amphiscii are the inhabitants of countries in which when a gnomon is placed perpendicularly on a plane surface, the shadow which it casts at mid-day, falls first to one side then to the other, as the sun illumines first this side, then that. This however only occurs in places situated between the tropics. The heteroscii are those amongst whom the shadow always falls to the north, as with us; or to the south, as amongst those who inhabit the other temperate zone. This occurs in all those regions where the arctic circle is less than the tropic. Where however it becomes the same as or greater than the tropic, this shows the commencement of the periscii, who extend thence to the pole. In regions where the sun remains above the horizon during an entire revolution of the earth, the shadow must evidently have turned in a complete circle round the gnomon. On this account he named them periscii. However they have nought to do with geography, inasmuch as the regions are not habitable on account of the cold, as we stated in our review ofPytheas. Nor is there any use in determining the size of this uninhabitable region, [it is enough to have established] that those countries, having the tropic for their arctic circle, are situated beneath the circle which is described by the pole of the zodiac in the diurnal] revolution of the earth, and that the distance between the equator and the tropic equals four-sixtieths of the great circle [of the earth].
§ 3.1.1 HAVING thus given a general view of Geography, it will now be proper to describe each separate country in detail, as we engaged to do. We fancy that the method which we have adopted in the division of our subject, up to this point, has been correct; and we now re-commence with Europe and the various countries into which it is divided, on the same principles as formerly, and induced by the same reasons.
§ 3.1.2 The first division of this continent towards the west isIberia, as we before stated. The greater part of this country is but little fitted for habitation; consisting chiefly of mountains, woods, and plains covered with a light meagre soil, the irrigation of which is likewise uncertain The part next the north, which borders on the ocean, is extremely cold, and besides its rugged character, has no communication or intercourse with other [countries], and thus to dwell there is attended with peculiar hardship. Such is the character of this portion; on the other hand, almost the whole of the south is fertile, especially what is beyond thePillars [ofHercules]. This however will be shown more in detail, but we must first describe the figure and extent [of the country].
§ 3.1.3 In shape it resembles a hide stretched out in length from west to east, the forepart towards the east, its breadth being from north to south. Its length is about 6000 stadia; the greatest breadth is 5000; while there are parts considerably less than 3000, particularly in the vicinity of thePyrenees, which form the eastern side. This chain of mountains stretches without interruption from north to south, and dividesKeltica fromIberia. The breadth both ofKeltica andIberia is irregular, the narrowest part in both of them from the Mediterranean to the [Atlantic] Ocean being near thePyrenees, particularly on either side of that chain; this gives rise to gulfs both on the side of the Ocean, and also of the Mediterranean; the largest of these are denominated theKeltic or Galatic Gulfs, and they render the [Keltic] isthmus narrower than that ofIberia. ThePyrenees form the eastern side ofIberia, and the Mediterranean the southern from thePyrenees to thePillars of Hercules, thence the exterior [ocean] as far as theSacred Promontory. The third or western side runs nearly parallel to thePyrenees from theSacred Promontory to the promontory of theArtabri, called [Cape]Nerium. The fourth side extends hence to the northern extremity of thePyrenees.
§ 3.1.4 We will now commence our detailed account, beginning from theSacred Promontory. This is the most western point not only of Europe, but of the whole habitable earth. For the habitable earth is bounded to the west by two continents, namely, the extremities of Europe andLibya, which are inhabited respectively by theIberians and theMaurusians. But theIberian extremity, at the promontory we have mentioned, juts out beyond the other as much as 1500 stadia. The region adjacent to this cape they call in theLatin tongue Cuneum, which signifies a wedge. The promontory which projects into the sea,Artemidorus (who states that he has himself been at the place) compares to a ship; three little islands, [he says, ] each having a small harbour, contribute to give it this form; the former island resembling the beak of the ship, and the two latter the beams on each side of the ship's bows. [He adds] that there is no sanctuary ofHercules shown there, asEphorus falsely states, nor yet any altar [to him] nor to any other divinity; but in many parts there are three or four stones placed together, which are turned by all travellers who arrive there, in accordance with a certain local custom, and are changed in position by such as turn them incorrectly. It is not lawful to offer sacrifice there, nor yet to approach the place during the night, for it is said that then the gods take up their abode at the place. Those who go thither to view it stay at a neighbouring village over-night, and proceed to the place on the morrow, carrying water with them, as there is none to be procured there.
§ 3.1.5 It is quite possible that these things are so, and we ought not to disbelieve them. Not so however with regard to the other common and vulgar reports; forPosidonius tells us the common people say that in the countries next the ocean the sun appears larger as he sets, and makes a noise resembling the sound of hot metal in cold water, as though the sea were hissing as the sun was submerged in its depths. The statement [ofArtemidorus] is also false, that night follows immediately on the setting of the sun: it does not follow immediately, although certainly the interval is short, as in other great seas. For when he sets behind mountains the agency of the false light continues the day for a long period; over the sea the twilight is shorter, still darkness does not immediately supervene. The same thing may be remarked in large plains. The image of the sun is enlarged on the seas at its rising as well as at its setting, because at these times a larger mass of exhalations rises from the humid element; and the eye looking through these exhalations, sees images refracted into larger forms, as observed through tubes. The same thing happens when the setting sun or moon is seen through a dry and thin cloud, when those bodies likewise appear reddish.Posidonius tells us that, having himself passed thirty days atGades, during which time he carefully observed the setting of the sun, he is convinced of the falsity ofArtemidorus's account. This latter writer tells us, that at the time of its setting the sun appears a hundred times larger than its ordinary size, and that night immediately succeeds. If we attend to his account, we cannot believe that he himself remarked this phenomenon at theSacred Promontory, for he tells us that no one can approach during the night; therefore they cannot approach at sunset, since night immediately supervenes thereupon. Neither did he observe it from any other part of the coast washed by the ocean, forGades is upon the ocean, and bothPosidonius and many others testify that there such is not the case.
§ 3.1.6 The sea-coast next theSacred Promontory forms on one side the commencement of the western coast of Spain as far as the outlet of the riverTagus; and on the other forms the southern coast as far as the outlet of another river, named theAna. Both of these rivers descend from the eastern parts [of Spain]; but the former, which is much larger than the other, pursues a straight course towards the west, while theAna bends its course towards the south. They enclose an extent of country peopled for the most part byKelts and certainLusitanians, whom the Romans caused to settle here from the opposite side of theTagus. Higher up, the country is inhabited by theCarpetani, theOretani, and a large number ofVettones. This district is moderately fertile, but that which is beyond it to the east and south, does not give place in superiority to any part of the habitable earth with which it may be compared, in the excellence of its productions both of land and sea. This is the country through which the riverBaetis flows. This river takes its rise from the same parts as theAna and theTagus, and is between these two in size. Like theAna, the commencement of its course flows towards the west, but it afterwards turns to the south, and discharges itself at the same side of the coast as that river. From this river the country has received the name ofBaetica; it is calledTurdetania by the inhabitants, who are themselves denominatedTurdetani, andTurduli. Some think these two names refer to one nation, while others believe that they designate two distinct people. Of this latter opinion isPolybius, who imagines that theTurduli dwell more to the north than theTurdetani. At the present day however there does not appear to be any distinction between them. These people are esteemed to be the most intelligent of all theIberians; they have an alphabet, and possess ancient writings, poems, and metrical laws six thousand years old, as they say. The otherIberians are likewise furnished with an alphabet, although not of the same form, nor do they speak the same language. Their country, which is on this side theAna, extends eastward as far asOretania, and southward along the sea-coast from the outlets of theAna to thePillars. But it is necessary that I should enter into further particulars concerning this and the neighbouring places, in order to illustrate their excellence and fertility.
§ 3.1.7 Between this coast, where theBaetis andAna discharge themselves, and the extremities ofMaurusia, theAtlantic Ocean forms the strait at thePillars [ofHercules] by which it is connected with the Mediterranean. Here is situatedCalpe, the mountain of theIberians who are denominatedBastetani, by othersBastuli. Its circumference is not large, but it is so high and steep as to resemble an island in the distance. Sailing from the Mediterranean into theAtlantic, it is left on the right hand. At a distance of 40 stadia from this [mountain] is the considerable and ancient city ofCarteia, formerly a marine arsenal of theIberians. Some assert that it was founded byHercules; of this number isTimosthenes, who tells us it was anciently called Heraclaea, and that vast walls and ship-sheds are still shown.
§ 3.1.8 Next to these isMellaria, where they make salted provisions. After this the city and river ofBelo. Here the merchandise and salted provisions forTingis inMaurusia are principally shipped. There was a city named Zelis near toTingis, but the Romans transferred it to the opposite coast [of Spain], and having placed there in addition some of the inhabitants ofTingis, and sent over also some of their own people, they then gave to the city the name ofJulia Joza. Beyond this isGadeira, an island separated fromTurdetania by a narrow strait, and distant fromCalpe about 750 stadia, or, as others say, 800. This island has nothing to distinguish it above others, but owing to the boldness of its people in their expeditions by sea, and their friendship with the Romans, has attained to that pitch of good fortune, that although situated at the farthest extremities of the earth, it possesses a greater celebrity than any other island. But we will describe it when we come to speak of the other islands.
§ 3.1.9 Next after [Cadiz ] is the port ofMenestheus, and the estuary near toAsta andNebrissa. These estuaries are valleys filled by the sea during its flood-tides, up which you may sail into the interior, and to the cities built on them, in the same way as you sail up a river. Immediately after are the two outlets of theBaetis. The island embraced by these mouths has a coast of a hundred stadia, or rather more according to others. Hereabouts is the Oracle ofMenestheus, and the tower ofCaepio, built upon a rock and washed on all sides by the sea. This is an admirable work, resembling thePharos, and constructed for the safety of vessels. For the mud carried out by the river forms shallows, and sunken rocks are also scattered before it, so that a beacon was greatly needed. Thence sailing up the river is the city ofEbura and the sanctuary of Phosphorus, which they call Lux Dubia. You then pass up the other estuaries; and after these the riverAna, which has also two mouths, up either of which you may sail. Lastly, beyond is theSacred Promontory, distant fromGadeira less than 2000 stadia. Some say that from theSacred Promontory to the mouth of theAna there are 60 miles; thence to the mouth of theBaetis 100; and from this latter place toGadeira 70.
§ 3.2.1 TURDETANIA lies above the coast on this side theAna, and is intersected by the riverBaetis. It is bounded on the west and north by the riverAna; on the east by certain of theCarpetani and theOretani; on the south by those of theBastetani who inhabit the narrow slip of coast betweenCalpe andGadeira, and by the sea beyond as far as theAna. TheBastetani whom I have mentioned, together with the people on the other side theAna, and many of the places adjacent, belong toTurdetania. The size of this country in its length and breadth does not exceed two thousand stadia, still it contains a vast number of towns; two hundred, it is said. Those best known are situated on the rivers, estuaries, and sea; but the two which have acquired the greatest name and importance are,Corduba, founded byMarcellus, and the city of theGaditanians. The latter for its naval importance, and its alliance with the Romans; and the former on account of its fertility and extent, a considerable portion of theBaetis flowing by it; in addition to this it has been from its commencement inhabited by picked men, whether natives or Romans; and it was the first colony planted by the Romans in these parts. After this city and that of theGaditanians,Hispalis is the most noted. This also is a Roman colony. Commerce is still carried on here, although at the present moment the city ofBaetis though not so finely built, is outshining it, on account of the honour it has received from the soldiers ofCaesar taking up their quarters there.
§ 3.2.2 After these areItalica, andIlipa, situated on theBaetis; farther on areAstygis,Carmo, andObulco; and besides these are the places where the sons ofPompey were defeated,Munda,Ategua,Urso,Tukkis,Julia, and Aegua. None of these places are far fromCorduba.Munda is in some sort regarded as the metropolis of the whole district. This place is distant fromCarteia 1400 stadia, and it was here thatCnaeus fled after his defeat, and sailing thence landed on a rocky height overlooking the sea, where he was murdered. His brotherSextus, having escaped fromCorduba, after carrying on the war for a short time in Spain, caused a revolt inSicily. Flying thence intoAsia he was seized atMiletus by the generals ofAntony, and executed. Amongst theKelts the most famous place isConistorgis. Upon the estuaries isAsta, in which theGaditani mostly hold their assemblies; it is opposite the sea-port of the island, at a distance of not more than 100 stadia.
§ 3.2.3 A vast number of people dwell along theBaetis; and you may sail up it almost 1200 stadia from the sea toCorduba, and the places a little higher up. The banks and little islets of this river are cultivated with the greatest diligence. The eye is also delighted with groves and gardens, which in this district are met with in the highest perfection. As far asHispalis, which is a distance of not less than 500 stadia, the river is navigable for ships of considerable size; but for the cities higher up, as far asIlipas, smaller vessels are employed, and thence toCorduba river-boats. These are now constructed of planks joined together, but they were formerly made out of a single trunk. Above this toCastlon the river is no longer navigable. A chain of mountains, rich in metal, runs parallel to theBaetis, approaching the river sometimes more, sometimes less, towards the north. There is much silver found in the parts aboutIlipas andSisapo, both in that which is called the old town and the new. There are copper and gold about theCotinae. These mountains are on the left as you sail up the river; on the right there is a vast and elevated plain, fertile, full of large trees, and containing excellent pasturage. TheAna is likewise navigable, but not for vessels equally large, nor yet so far up. It is also bordered by mountains containing metal, and extends as far as theTagus. Districts which contain metals must, of necessity, be rugged and poor, as indeed are those adjoiningCarpetania, and still more those next theKeltiberians. The same is the case withBaeturia, the plains of which, bordering on theAna, are arid.
§ 3.2.4 Turdetania, on the other hand, is marvellously fertile, and abounds in every species of produce. The value of its productions is doubled by means of exportation, the surplus products finding a ready sale amongst the numerous ship-owners. This results from its rivers and estuaries, which, as we have said, resemble rivers, and by which you may sail from the sea to the inland towns, not only in small, but even in large-sized skiffs. For the whole country above the coast, and situated between theSacred Promontory and thePillars, consists of an extended plain. Here in many places are hollows running inland from the sea, which resemble moderately-sized ravines or the beds of rivers, and extend for many stadia. These are filled by the approach of the sea at high tide, and may be navigated as easily, or even more so than rivers. They are navigated much the same as rivers the sea, meeting with no obstacle, enters like the flow of a river at flood-tide. The sea comes in here with greater force than in the other places; for being forced from the wide ocean into the narrow strait, formed by the coast ofMaurusia andIberia, it experiences recoils, and thus is borne full into the retiring parts of the land. Some of these shallows are left dry as the tide ebbs, while others are never destitute of water; others again contain islands, of this kind are the estuaries between theSacred Promontory and thePillars, where the tide comes in with more violence than at other places. Such a tide is of considerable advantage to sailors, since it makes the estuaries both fuller and more spacious, frequently swelling them to a breadth of eight stadia, so that the whole land, so to speak, is rendered navigable, thus giving wonderful facility both for the export and import of merchandise. Nevertheless there is some inconvenience. For in the navigation of the rivers, the sailors run considerable danger both in ascending and descending, owing to the violence with which the flood-tide encounters the current of the stream as it flows down. The ebb-tides are likewise the cause of much damage in these estuaries, for resulting as they do from the same cause as the flood-tides, they are frequently so rapid as to leave the vessel on dry land; and herds in passing over to the islands that are in these estuaries are sometimes drowned [in the passage] and sometimes surprised in the islands, and endeavouring to cross back again to the continent, are unable, and perish in the attempt. They say that certain of thecattle, having narrowly observed what takes place, wait till the sea has retired, and then cross over to the main-land.
§ 3.2.5 The men [of the country], being well acquainted with the nature of these places, and that the estuaries would very well answer the same purpose as rivers, founded cities and other settlements along them the same as along rivers. Of this number areAsta,Nebrissa,Onoba,Ossonoba,Maenoba, besides many others. The canals which have been cut in various directions are also found useful in the traffic which is carried on between place and place, both amongst the people themselves and with foreigners. The conflux of water at the flood-tides is also valuable, as rendering navigable the isthmuses which separate the different pieces of water, thus making it possible to ferry over from the rivers into the estuaries, and from the estuaries into the rivers. Their trade is wholly carried on withItaly andRome. The navigation is excellent as far as thePillars, (excepting perhaps some little difficulties at the Strait,) and equally so on the Mediterranean, where the voyages are very calm, especially to those who keep the high seas. This is a great advantage to merchant-vessels. The winds on the high seas blow regularly; and peace reigns there now, thepirates having been put down, so that in every respect the voyage is facile.Posidonius tells us he observed the singular phenomenon in his journey fromIberia, that in this sea, as far as the Gulf ofSardinia, the south-east winds blow periodically. And on this account he strove in vain for three whole months to reachItaly, being driven about by the winds against theGymnesian islands,Sardinia, and the opposite coasts ofLibya.
§ 3.2.6 Large quantities of corn and wine are exported fromTurdetania, besides much oil, which is of the first quality; also wax, honey, pitch, large quantities of the kermesberry, and vermilion not inferior to that ofSinope. The country furnishes the timber for their shipbuilding. They have likewise mineral salt, and not a few salt streams. A considerable quantity of salted fish is exported, not only from hence, but also from the remainder of the coast beyond thePillars, equal to that ofPontus. Formerly they exported large quantities of garments, but they now send the [unmanufactured] wool, which is superior even to that of theCoraxi, and remarkable for its beauty. Rams for the purpose of covering fetch a talent. The stuffs manufactured by theSaltiatae are of incomparable texture. There is a superabundance ofcattle, and a great variety of game: while, on the other hand, of destructive animals there are scarcely any, with the exception of certain little hares which burrow in the ground, and are called by some leberides. These creatures destroy both seeds and trees by gnawing their roots. They are met with throughout almost the whole ofIberia, and extend toMarseilles, infesting likewise the islands. It is said that formerly the inhabitants of theGymnesian islands sent a deputation to the Romans soliciting that a new land might be given them, as they were quite driven out of their country by these animals, being no longer able to stand against their vast multitudes. It is possible that people should be obliged to have recourse to such an expedient for help in waging war in so great an extremity, which however but seldom happens, and is a plague produced by some pestilential state of the atmosphere, which at other times has producedserpents andrats in like abundance; but for the ordinary increase of these little hares, many ways of hunting have been devised, amongst others by wildcats from Africa, trained for the purpose. Having muzzled these, they turn them into the holes, when they either drag out the animals they find there with their claws, or compel them to fly to the surface of the earth, where they are taken by people standing by for that purpose. The large amount of the exports fromTurdetania is evinced by the size and number of their ships. Merchant vessels of the greatest size sail thence toDicaearchia andOstia, a Roman port; they are in number nearly equal to those which arrive fromLibya.
§ 3.2.7 Such is the wealth of the inland part ofTurdetania, and its maritime portions are found fully to equal it in the richness of their sea-productions. In fact, oysters and every variety of shell-fish, remarkable both for their number and size, are found along the whole of the exterior sea, but here in particular. It is probable that the flow and ebb tides, which are particularly strong here, contribute both to their quantity and size, on count of the great number of pools and standing waters which they form. The same is the case with regard to all kinds of cetacea, narwhals, whales, and physeteri, which when they blow [up the water from their snouts] appear to observers from a distance to resemble a cloud shaped like a column. The congers are quite monstrous, far surpassing in size those of our [sea]; so are the lampreys, and many other fish of the same kind. It is said that inCarteia there are kerukae and cuttle-fish which would contain as much as ten cotylae. In the parts more exterior there are lampreys and congers weighing 80 minae, and polypesa talent, also teuthidae two cubits in length, with other fish in proportion. Shoals of rich fattunny are driven hither from the sea-coast beyond. They feed on the fruit of a species of stunted oak, which grows at the bottom of the sea, and produces very large acorns. The same oaks grow in large numbers throughout the land ofIberia, their roots are of the same size as those of the full-grown oak, although the tree itself never attains the height of a low shrub. So great is the quantity of fruit which it produces, that at the season when they are ripe, the whole coast on either side of thePillars is covered with acorns which have been thrown up by the tides: the quantity however is always less on this side thePillars [than on the other].Polybius states that these acorns are ejected [by the sea] as far as [the shores of]Latium, unless, he adds,Sardo and the neighbouring districts also produce them. Thetunny-fish become gradually thinner, owing to the failure of their food, as they approach thePillars from the outer sea. This fish, in fact, may be regarded as a kind of sea-hog, being fond of the acorn, and growing marvellously fat upon it; and whenever acorns are abundant,tunny-fish are abundant likewise.
§ 3.2.8 Of the various riches of the aforenamed country, not the least is its wealth in metals: this every one will particularly esteem and admire. Of metals, in fact, the whole country of theIberians is full, although it is not equally fertile and flourishing throughout, especially in those parts where the metals most abound. It is seldom that any place is blessed with both these advantages, and likewise seldom that the different kinds of metals abound in one small territory.Turdetania, however, and the surrounding districts surpass so entirely in this respect, that however you may wish, words cannot convey their excellence. Gold, silver, copper, and iron, equal in amount and of similar quality, not having been hitherto discovered in any other part of the world. Gold is not only dug from the mines, but likewise collected; sand containing gold being washed down by the rivers and torrents. It is frequently met with in arid districts, but here the gold is not visible to the sight, whereas in those which are overflowed the grains of gold are seen glittering. On this account they cause water to flow over the arid places in order to make the grains shine; they also dig pits, and make use of other contrivances for washing the sand, and separating the gold from it; so that at the present day more gold is procured by washing than by digging it from the mines. TheGalatae affirm that the mines along the Kemmenus mountains and their side of thePyrenees are superior; but most people prefer those on this side. They say that sometimes amongst the grains of gold lumps have been found weighing half a pound, these they call paloe; they need but little refining. They also say that in splitting open stones they find small lumps, resembling paps. And that when they have melted the gold, and purified it by means of a kind of aluminous earth, the residue left is electrum. This, which contains a mixture of silver and gold, being again subjected to the fire, the silver is separated and the gold left [pure]; for this metal is easily dissipated and fat, and on this account gold is most easily melted by straw, the flame of which is soft, and bearing a similarity [to the gold], causes it easily to dissolve: whereas coal, besides wasting a great deal, melts it too much by reason of its vehemence, and carries it off [in vapour]. In the beds of the rivers the sand is either collected and washed in boats close by, or else a pit is dug to which the earth is carried and there washed. The furnaces for silver are constructed lofty, in order that the vapour, which is dense and pestilent, may be raised and carried off. Certain of the copper mines are called gold mines, which would seem to show that formerly gold was dug from them.
§ 3.2.9 Posidonius, in praising the amount and excellence of the metals, cannot refrain from his accustomed rhetoric, and becomes quite enthusiastic in exaggeration. He tells us we are not to disbelieve the fable, that formerly the forests having been set on fire, the earth, which was loaded with silver and gold, melted, and threw up these metals to the surface, forasmuch as every mountain and wooded hill seemed to be heaped up with money by a lavish fortune. Altogether (he remarks) any one seeing these places, could only describe them as the inexhaustible treasuries of nature, or the unfailing exchequer of some potentate; for not only, he tells us, is this land rich itself, but riches abound beneath it. So that amongst these people the subterraneous regions should not be regarded as the realms ofPluto, but ofPlutus. Such is the flourished style in which he speaks on this subject, that you would fancy his turgid language had been dug from a mine itself. Discoursing on the diligence of the miners, he applies to them the remark [ofDemetrius Phalareus, who, speaking of the silver mines ofAttica, said that the men there dug with as much energy as if they thought they could grub upPlutus himself. He compares with these the activity and diligence of theTurdetani, who are in the habit of cutting tortuous and deep tunnels, and draining the streams which they frequently encounter by means ofEgyptian screws. As for the rest, they are quite different from theAttic miners, whose mining (he remarks) may be justly compared to that enigma, What I have taken up I have not kept, and what I have got I have thrown away. Whereas theTurdetanians make a good profit, since a fourth part of the ore which they extract from the copper mines is [pure] copper, while from the silver mines one person has taken as much as aEuboean talent. He says that tin is not found upon the surface, as authors commonly relate, but that it is dug up; and that it is produced both in places among the barbarians who dwell beyond theLusitanians and in the islandsCassiterides; and that from theBritannic Islands it is carried toMarseilles. Amongst theArtabri, who are the last of theLusitanians towards the north and west, he tells us that the earth is powdered with silver, tin, and white gold, that is, mixed with silver, the earth having been brought down by the rivers: this the women scrape up with spades, and wash in sieves, woven after the fashion of baskets. Such is the substance of what [Posidonius] tells us concerning the mines [ofIberia].
§ 3.2.10 Polybius, speaking of the silver mines ofNew Carthage, tells us that they are extremely large, distant from the city about 20 stadia, and occupy a circuit of 400 stadia, that there are 40,000 men regularly engaged in them, and that they yield daily to the Roman people [a revenue of] 25,000 drachmae. The rest of the process I pass over, as it is too long, but as for the silver ore collected, he tells us that it is broken up, and sifted through sieves over water; that what remains is to be again broken, and the water having been strained off, it is to be sifted and broken a third time. The dregs which remain after the fifth time are to be melted, and the lead being poured off, the silver is obtained pure. These silver mines still exist; however they are no longer the property of the state, neither these nor those elsewhere, but are possessed by private individuals. The gold mines, on the contrary, nearly all belong to the state. Both atCastlon and other places there are singular lead mines worked. They contain a small proportion of silver, but not sufficient to pay for the expense of refining.
§ 3.2.11 Not far fromCastlon is the mountain in which they report that the [river]Baetis takes its rise. They call it silver mountain on account of the silver mines which it contains.Polybius asserts that both theAna and this river have their sources inKeltiberia, notwithstanding they are separated from each other by a distance of 900 stadia; [this we are to attribute to] theKeltiberians having increased in power, and having consequently conferred their name on the surrounding country. It appears the ancients knew theBaetis under the name of theTartessus, andGades with the neighbouring islands under that ofErythia; and it is thought that we should understand in this sense the words ofStesichorus concerning the pastoral poetGeryon, that he was born "almost opposite to the renownedErythia, in a rocky cave near to the abundant springs of the silver-bedded riverTartessus." They say that on the piece of land enclosed between the two outlets of this river there formerly stood a city named, like the river,Tartessus, and that the district was calledTartessis, which theTurduli now inhabit.Eratosthenes likewise tells us that the [country] near toCalpe was calledTartessis, and alsoErythia the Fortunate Island. ThisArtemidorus contradicts, and says that it is as false as his other statements, that theSacred Promontory is distant fromGades five days' sail, when in fact they are [distant from each other] not more than 1700 stadia. Likewise that the tide ceased at this point, whereas it passes round the whole circuit of the habitable earth. That it is easier to pass from the northern parts ofIberia intoKeltica, than to proceed thither by sea; with many other things which he asserted on the faith of that charlatanPytheas.
§ 3.2.12 Our poet [Homer] being very explicit, and possessing great experience, gives one cause to believe that he was not unfamiliar with these localities. Of this any one may be convinced who will examine carefully what has been written on these points, both the incorrect [comments], and likewise those which are better and more truthful. One amongst these incorrect ideas is, that he considered [Tartessis] to be the farthest country towards the west, where, as he himself expresses it, "The radiant sun in ocean sank, Drawing night after him o'er all the earth." Iliad viii. 485. Now, since it is evident that night is ominous, and near toHades, andHades toTartarus, it seems probable that [Homer], having heard ofTartessus, took thence the name ofTartarus to distinguish the farthest of the places beneath the earth, also embellishing it with fable in virtue of the poetic licence. In the same way, knowing that theCimmerians dwelt in northern and dismal territories near to theBosphorus, he located them in the vicinity ofHades; perhaps also on account of the common hatred of theIonians against this people. For they say that in the time ofHomer, or a little before, theCimmerians made an incursion as far asAeolia andIonia. Always drawing his fables from certain real facts, hisPlanetae are modelled on theCyaneae. He describes them as dangerous rocks, as they tell us the Cyaneaean rocks are, [and] on which account [in fact] they are calledSymplegades. He adds to this [the account of]Jason's navigating through the midst of them. The Straits of thePillars andSicily, likewise, suggested to him the fable of thePlanetae. Thus, even according to the worst comments, from the fiction ofTartarus any one might gather thatHomer was acquainted with the regions aboutTartessus.
§ 3.2.13 Of these facts, notwithstanding, there are better proofs. For instance, the expeditions ofHercules and thePhoenicians to this country were evidence to him of the wealth and luxury of the people. They fell so entirely under the dominion of thePhoenicians, that at the present day almost the whole of the cities ofTurdetania and the neighbouring places are inhabited by them. It also seems to me that the expedition ofUlysses hither, as it took place and was recorded, was the foundation both of hisOdyssey andIliad, which he framed upon facts collected into a poem, and embellished as usual with poetical mythology. It is not only inItaly,Sicily, and a few other places that vestiges of these [events] occur; even inIberia a city is shown namedOdysseia, also a sanctuary ofMinerva, and a myriad other traces both of the wandering ofUlysses and also of other survivors of theTrojan War, which was equally fatal to the vanquished and those who tookTroy. These latter in fact gained aCadmean victory, for their homes were destroyed, and the portion of booty which fell to each was exceedingly minute. Consequently not only those who had survived the perils [of their country], but the Greeks as well, betook themselves topiracy, the former because they had been pillaged of every thing; the latter, on account of the shame which each one anticipated to himself: "The shame That must attend us, after absence long Returning unsuccessful, who can bear?" Iliad ii. 298. In the same way is related the wandering ofAeneas, ofAntenor, and of theHeneti; likewise ofDiomedes, ofMenelaus, ofUlysses, and of many others. Hence the poet, knowing of similar expeditions to the extremities ofIberia, and having heard of its wealth and other excellencies, (which thePhoenicians had made known,) feigned this to be the region of the Blessed, and the Plain ofElysium, whereProteus informsMenelaus that he is to depart to: "But far hence the gods Will send thee toElysium, and the earth's Extremest bounds; thereRhadamanthus dwells, The golden-haired, and there the human kind Enjoy the easiest life; no snow is there, No biting winter, and no drenching shower, But zephyr always gently from the sea Breathes on them to refresh the happy race." [Od. iv. 563.] Now the purity of the air, and the gentle breathing of the zephyr, are both applicable to this country, as well as the softness of the climate, its position in the west, and its place at the extremities of the earth, where, as we have said, he feigned thatHades was. By couplingRhadamanthus with it, he signifies that the place was near toMinos, of whom he says, "There saw IMinos, offspring famed ofJove; His golden sceptre in his hand, he sat Judge of the dead." [Od. xi. 567.]. Similar to these are the fables related by later poets; such, for instance, as the expeditions after theoxen ofGeryon, and the golden apples of theHesperides, theIslands of the Blessed they speak of, which we know are still pointed out to us not far distant from the extremities ofMaurusia, and opposite toGades.
§ 3.2.14 I repeat that thePhoenicians were the discoverers [of these countries], for they possessed the better part ofIberia andLibya before the time ofHomer, and continued masters of those places until their empire was overthrown by the Romans. This also is an evidence of the wealth ofIberia: in the expedition of theCarthaginians under Barcas, they found, according to historians, that the people ofTurdetania used silver goblets and casks. One might guess too that it was on account of this great opulence that the men of the country, and their chiefs in particular, were styled long-lived. WhereforeAnacreon thus sings, "Neither would I desire the horn ofAmalthea, nor to reign overTartessus one hundred and fifty years."Herodotus too has preserved the name of the king, whom he callsArganthonius. The passage ofAnacreon must therefore either be understood [of this king], or some other like him; or else more generally thus, "nor to reign for a lengthened period inTartessus." Some writers are of opinion thatTartessus is the presentCarteia.
§ 3.2.15 TheTurdetani not only enjoy a salubrious climate, but their manners are polished and urbane, as also are those of the people ofKeltica, by reason of their vicinity [to theTurdetani], or, according toPolybius, on account of their being of the same stock, but not to so great a degree, for they live for the most part scattered in villages. TheTurdetani, on the other hand, especially those who dwell about theBaetis, have so entirely adopted the Roman mode of life, as even to have forgotten their own language. They have for the most part becomeLatins, and received Roman colonists; so that a short time only is wanted before they will be all Romans. The very names of many of the towns at present, such asPax Augusta amongst theKeltici,Augusta-Emerita amongst theTurduli,Caesaraugusta amongst theKeltiberians and certain other colonies, are proof of the change of manners I have spoken of. Those of theIberians who adopt these new modes of life are styled togati. Amongst their number are theKeltiberians, who formerly were regarded as the most uncivilized of them all. So much for these.
§ 3.3.1 STARTING again from theSacred Promontory, and continuing along the other side of the coast, we come to the gulf near theTagus, afterwardsCape Barbarium, and near to this the outlets of theTagus, which may be reached by sailing in a straight course for a distance of 10 stadia. Here are estuaries, one of them more than 400 stadia from the said tower, on a part of whichLaccaea is situated. The breadth of the mouth of theTagus is about 20 stadia, its depth is so great as to be capable of navigation by vessels of the greatest burden. At the flood-tide theTagus forms two estuaries in the plains which lie above it, so that the plain is inundated and rendered navigable for a distance of 150 stadia. In the upper estuary an island is formed about 30 stadia in length, and nearly equal in breadth, which is fertile, and has excellent vines. The island lies near toMoro, a city happily situated on a mountain close to the river, and about 500 stadia from the sea. The country surrounding it is very fine, and the ascent [of theTagus] for a considerable way practicable for vessels of a large size, the remainder is performed in riverboats. AboveMoro it is navigable for a yet longer distance.Brutus, surnamed the Gallician, made use of this city as a military station, when fighting against theLusitanians, whom he subdued. On the sides of the river he fortifiedOlysipo, in order that the passage up the river and the carriage of necessaries might be preserved unimpeded. These therefore are the finest cities near theTagus. The river contains much fish, and is full of oysters. It takes its rise amongst theKeltiberians, and flows through the [country of the]Vettones,Carpetani, andLusitani, towards the west; to a certain distance it runs parallel with theAna andBaetis, but parts from them as they decline towards the southern coast.
§ 3.3.2 Of those who dwell above the aforesaid mountains, theOretani are the most southern, extending in part as far as the sea-coast on this side thePillars. Next these towards the north are theCarpetani, then theVettones andVaccaei, through whose [country] theDouro flows as it passes Acontia, a city of theVaccaei. TheGallicians are the last, and inhabit for the most part a mountainous country: on this account they were the most difficult to subdue, and furnished his surname to the conqueror of theLusitanians; in fact, at the present day the greater part of theLusitanians are beginning to call themselvesGallicians. The finest cities ofOretania areCastulo andOria.
§ 3.3.3 North of theTagus isLusitania, the principal of the nations ofIberia, and the one which has most frequently encountered the arms of the Romans. On the southern side this country is bounded by theTagus, on the west and north by the ocean, on the east by the well-known nations of theCarpetani, theVettones, theVaccaei, theGallicians, and by others not worthy to be mentioned on account of their insignificance and obscurity. On the other hand, certain historians of the present day give the name ofLusitanians to all of these nations. To the east theGallicians border on the nation of theAstures andKeltiberians, the others [border] on theKeltiberians. In lengthLusitania is 3000 stadia; its breadth, which is comprised between the eastern side and the opposite seacoast, is much less. The eastern part is mountainous and rugged, while the country beyond, as far as the sea, consists entirely of plains, with the exception of a few inconsiderable mountains. On this accountPosidonius remarks thatAristotle was not correct in supposing that the ebb and flow of the tide was occasioned by the sea-coast ofIberia andMaurusia. ForAristotle asserted that the tides of the sea were caused by the extremities of the land being mountainous and rugged, and therefore both receiving the wave violently and also casting it back. WhereasPosidonius truly remarks that they are for the most part low and sandy.
§ 3.3.4 The country which we are describing is fertile, and irrigated by rivers both large and small, all of which flow from the eastern parts parallel with theTagus: most of them are navigable and full of gold dust. After theTagus, the most noted rivers are theMounda and the Vacua, which are navigable but for a short distance. After these is theDourios, which flows from afar byNumantia, and many other colonies of theKeltiberians andVaccaei; it is capable of being navigated in large vessels for a distance of nearly 800 stadia. Besides these there are other rivers, after which is the [river] ofLethe, which some call theLimaea, others the Belio, it likewise rises amongst theKeltiberians andVaccaei. After this is the Baenis (some call it theMinius), by far the largest river ofLusitania, being navigable for a distance of 800 stadia.Posidonius says this too rises amongst theCantabrians. An island lies before its outlet, and two moles affording anchorage for vessels. A natural advantage [of this country] well deserving of commendation is, that the banks of the rivers are so lofty as to be capable of containing the entire of the water raised by the high tides of the sea, without either being overfilled, or overflowing the plains. This was the limit ofBrutus's expedition. Beyond there are many other rivers parallel to those I have named.
§ 3.3.5 TheArtabri are the last of the people [on this coast]. They inhabit the promontory calledNerium, which is the boundary [ofIberia] on its western and northern sides. Around it dwell theKeltici, a kindred race to those who are situated along theAna. They say that these latter, together with theTurduli, having undertaken an expedition thither, quarrelled after they had crossed the riverLima, and, besides the sedition, their leader having also died, they remained scattered there, and from this circumstance the river was called theLethe. TheArtabri have besides many cities established round the Gulf, which mariners and those familiar with the places designate as the Port of theArtabri. At the present day theArtabri are denominated theArotrebae. About thirty different nations occupy the country between theTagus and theArtabri. Notwithstanding the fertility of the country in corn,cattle, gold, silver, and numerous other similar productions, the majority of its inhabitants, neglecting to gain their subsistence from the ground, passed their lives in pillage and continual warfare, both between themselves and their neighbours, whom they used to cross theTagus [to plunder]. To this the Romans at length put a stop by subduing them, and changing many of their cities into villages, besides colonizing some of them better. The mountaineers, as was natural, were the first to commence this lawless mode of life: for living but scantily, and possessing little, they coveted the goods of others, who being obliged to repulse them, of necessity relinquished their proper employments, and instead of pursuing agriculture took up arms. Thus it happened that their country, being neglected, became barren notwithstanding its natural advantages, and inhabited by bandits.
§ 3.3.6 TheLusitanians are reported to be clever in laying ambushes, sharp, swift of foot, light, and easily disciplined as soldiers. The small shield they make use of is two feet in diameter, its outer surface concave, and suspended by leather thongs; it neither has rings nor handles. They have in addition a poignard or dagger. Their corselets are for the most part made of linen; a few have chain-coats and helmets with triple crests, but the others use helmets composed of sinews. The infantry wear greaves, each man is furnished with a number of javelins; some also use spears pointed with brass. They report that some of those who dwell near to the riverDouro imitate theLacedemonians in anointing their bodies with oil, using hot air-baths made of heated stones, bathing in cold water, and taking but one tidy and frugal meal a day. TheLusitanians are frequent in the performance of sacrifice; they examine the entrails, but without cutting them out of the body; they also examine the veins of the side, and practise augury by the touch. They likewise divine by the entrails of captive enemies, whom they first cover with a military cloak, and when stricken under the entrails by the haruspex, they draw their first auguries from the fall [of the victim]. They cut off the right hands of their prisoners, and consecrate them to the gods.
§ 3.3.7 All the mountaineers are frugal, their beverage is water, they sleep on the ground, and wear a profuse quantity of long hair after the fashion of women, which they bind around the forehead when they go to battle. They subsist principally on the flesh of thegoat, which animal they sacrifice toMars, as also prisoners taken in war, andhorses. They likewise offer hecatombs of each kind after the manner of the Greeks, described byPindar, "To sacrifice a hundred of every [species]." They practise gymnastic exercises, both as heavy-armed soldiers, and cavalry, also boxing, running, skirmishing, and fighting in bands. For two-thirds of the year the mountaineers feed on the acorn, which they dry, bruise, and afterwards grind and make into a kind of bread, which may be stored up for a long period. They also use beer; wine is very scarce, and what is made they speedily consume in feasting with their relatives. In place of oil they use butter. Their meals they take sitting, on seats put up round the walls, and they take place on these according to their age and rank. The supper is carried round, and whilst drinking they dance to the sound of the flute and trumpet, springing up and sinking upon the knees. InBastetania the women dance promiscuously with the men, each holding the other's hand. They all dress in black, the majority of them in cloaks called saga, in which they sleep on beds of straw. They make use of wooden vessels like theKelts. The women wear dresses and embroidered garments. Instead of money, those who dwell far in the interior exchange merchandise, or give pieces of silver cut off from plates of that metal. Those condemned to death are executed by stoning; parricides are put to death without the frontiers or the cities. They marry according to the customs of the Greeks. Their sick they expose upon the highways, in the same way as theEgyptians did anciently, in the hope that some one who has experienced the malady may be able to give them advice. Up to the time of [the expedition of]Brutus they made use of vessels constructed of skins for crossing the lagoons formed by the tides; they now have them formed out of the single trunk of a tree, but these are scarce. Their salt is purple, but becomes white by pounding. The life of the mountaineers is such as I have described, I mean those bordering the northern side ofIberia, theGallicians, theAsturians, and theCantabrians, as far as theVascons and thePyrenees. The mode of life amongst all these is similar. But I am reluctant to fill my page with their names, and would fain escape the disagreeable task of writing them, unless perchance thePleutauri, theBardyetae, theAllotriges, and other names still worse and more out of the way than these might be grateful to the ear of some one.
§ 3.3.8 The rough and savage manners of these people is not alone owing to their wars, but likewise to their isolated position, it being a long distance to reach them, whether by sea or land. Thus the difficulty of communication has deprived them both of generosity of manners and of courtesy. At the present time, however, they suffer less from this both on account of their being at peace and the intermixture of Romans. Wherever these [influences] are not so much experienced people are harsher and more savage. It is probable that this ruggedness of character is increased by the barrenness of the mountains and some of the places which they inhabit. At the present day, as I have remarked, all warfare is put an end to,Augustus Caesar having subdued theCantabrians and the neighbouring nations, amongst whom the system of pillage was mainly carried on in our day. So that at the present time, instead of plundering the allies of the Romans, theConiaci and those who dwell by the sources of theEbro, with the exception of theTuisi, bear arms for the Romans.Tiberius, who succeededAugustus Caesar, carried out his intention of placing a military force of three legions in these parts, by which means he has not only preserved peace, but introduced amongst some of them a civil polity.
§ 3.4.1 WHAT remains [to be described] ofIberia, is the seacoast of the Mediterranean from thePillars to thePyrenees, and the whole of the inland country which lies above. The breadth of this is irregular, its length a little above 4000 stadia. It has been remarked that the sea-coast is above 2000 stadia, and they say that from MountCalpe, which is near thePillars, toNew Carthage, there are 2200 stadia. This coast is inhabited by theBastetani, also called theBastuli, and in part by theOretani. Thence to theEbro the distance is nearly as great. This [region] is inhabited by theEdetani. On this side theEbro to thePyrenees and theTrophies ofPompey there are 1600 stadia. It is peopled by a small portion of theEdetani, and the rest by a people named theIndicetes, divided into four cantons.
§ 3.4.2 Commencing our particular description fromCalpe, there is [first] the mountain-chain ofBastetania and theOretani. This is covered with thick woods and gigantic trees, and separates the sea-coast from the interior. In many places it also contains gold and other mines. The first city along the coast isMalaca, which is about as far distant fromCalpe asCalpe is fromGades. It is a market for the nomad tribes from the opposite coast, and there are great stores of salt-fish there. Some suppose it to be the same asMaenaca, which tradition reports to be the farthest west of the cities of thePhocaei; but this is not the case, forMaenaca, which was situated at a greater distance fromCalpe, is in ruins, and preserves traces of having been a Grecian city, whereasMalaca is nearer, andPhoenician in its configuration. Next in order is the city of theExitani, from which the salted fish bearing that name takes its appellation.
§ 3.4.3 After these comesAbdera, founded likewise by thePhoenicians. Above these places, in the mountains, the city ofOdysseia is shown, containing a sanctuary ofAthena, according to the testimony ofPosidonius,Artemidorus, andAsclepiades theMyrlean, a man who taught literature inTurdetania, and published a description of the nations dwelling there. He says that in the sanctuary ofAthena were hung up spears and prows of vessels, monuments of the wanderings ofUlysses. That some of those who followedTeucer in his expedition settled among theGallicians; and that two cities were there, the one called Hellenes, the other Amphilochi; butAmphilochus having died, his followers wandered into the interior. He adds, that it is said, that some of the followers ofHercules, and certain also of the inhabitants ofMessene, settled inIberia. Both he and others assert that a portion ofCantabria was occupied byLaconians. Here is the city named Opsicella, founded by Ocela, who passed intoItaly withAntenor and his children. Some believe the account of the merchants ofGades, asserted byArtemidorus, that inLibya there are people living aboveMaurusia, near to the WesternEthiopians, namedLotophagi, because they feed on the leaves and root of the lotus without wanting to drink; for they possess [no drink], being without water. These people they say extend as far as the regions aboveCyrene. There are others also calledLotophagi, who inhabitMeninx, one of the islands situated opposite the LesserSyrtes.
§ 3.4.4 No one should be surprised that the poet, in his fiction descriptive of the wanderings ofUlysses, should have located the majority of the scenes which he narrates without thePillars, in theAtlantic. For historical events of a similar character did actually occur near to the places, so that the other circumstances which he feigned did not make his fiction incredible; nor [should any one be surprised] if certain persons, putting faith in the historical accuracy and extensive knowledge of the poet, should have attempted to explain the poem ofHomer on scientific principles; a proceeding undertaken byCrates ofMallos, and some others. On the other hand, there have been those who have treated the undertaking ofHomer so contemptuously, as not only to deny any such knowledge to the poet, as though he were a ditcher or reaper, but have stigmatized as fools those who commented on his writings. And not one either of the grammarians, or of those skilled in the mathematics, has dared to undertake their defence, or to set right any mistakes in what they have advanced, or any thing else; although it seems to me possible both to prove correct much that they have said, and also to set right other points, especially where they have been misled by putting faith inPytheas, who was ignorant of the countries situated along the ocean, both to the west and north. But we must let these matters pass, as they require a particular and lengthened discussion.
§ 3.4.5 The settlement of the Grecians amongst these barbarous nations may be regarded as the result of the division of these latter into small tribes and sovereignties, having on account of their moroseness no union amongst themselves, and therefore powerless against attacks from without. This moroseness is remarkably prevalent amongst theIberians, who are besides crafty in their manner, devoid of sincerity, insidious, and predatory in their mode of life; they are bold in little adventures, but never undertake any thing of magnitude, inasmuch as they have never formed any extended power or confederacy. If they had had but the will to assist each other, neither could theCarthaginians by making an incursion have so easily deprived them of the greater part of their country, nor before them theTyrians, then theKelts, now called theKeltiberians and Berones, nor after these the brigandViriathus, andSertorius, nor any others who desired power. On this account the Romans, having carried the war intoIberia, lost much time by reason of the number of different sovereignties, having to conquer first one, then another; in fact, it occupied nearly two centuries, or even longer, before they had subdued the whole. — I return to my description.
§ 3.4.6 AfterAbdera isNew Carthage, founded byAsdrubal, who succeeded Barcas, the father ofHannibal. It is by far the most powerful city of this country, being impregnable, and furnished with a noble wall, harbours, and a lake, besides the silver mines already mentioned. The places in the vicinity have an abundance of salted fish, and it is besides the great emporium of the sea merchandise for the interior, and likewise for the merchandise from the interior for exportation. About midway along the coast between this city and theEbro, we meet with the outlet of the riverSucro, and a city bearing the same name. It rises in a mountain belonging to the chain which overlooksMalaca, and the regions aroundCarthage, and may be forded on foot; it is nearly parallel to theEbro, but not quite so far distant fromCarthage as from theEbro. Between theSucro andCarthage are three small towns of the people ofMarseilles, not far from the river. Of these the best known isHemeroscopium. On the promontory there is a sanctuary toDiana ofEphesus, held in great veneration.Sertorius used it as an arsenal, convenient to the sea, both on account of its being fortified and fitted forpiratical uses, and because it is visible from a great distance to vessels approaching. It is calledDianium, fromDiana. Near to it are some fine iron-works, and two small islands, Planesia and Plumbaria, with a sea-water lake lying above, of 400 stadia in circumference. Next is the island ofHercules, near toCarthage, and called Scombraria, on account of the mackerel taken there, from which the finest garum is made. It is distant 24 stadia fromCarthage. On the other side of theSucro, going towards the outlet of theEbro, isSaguntum, founded by theZacynthians. The destruction of this city byHannibal, contrary to his treaties with the Romans, kindled the second Punic war. Near to it are the cities of Cherronesus, Oleastrum, and Cartalia, and the colony ofDertossa, on the very passage of theEbro. TheEbro takes its source amongst theCantabrians; it flows through an extended plain towards the south, running parallel with thePyrenees.
§ 3.4.7 The first city between the windings of theEbro and the extremities of thePyrenees, near to where theTrophies ofPompey are erected, isTarraco; it has no harbour, but is situated on a bay, and possessed of many other advantages. At the present day it is as well peopled asCarthage; for it is admirably suited for the stay of the prefects, and is as it were the metropolis, not only of [the country lying] on this side theEbro, but also of a great part of what lies beyond. The near vicinity of theGymnesian Islands, andEbusus, which are all of considerable importance, are sufficient to inform one of the felicitous position of the city.Eratosthenes tells us that it has a naval station, butArtemidorus contradicts this, and affirms that it scarcely possesses an anchorage.
§ 3.4.8 The whole coast from thePillars up to this place wants harbours, but all the way from here toEmporium, the countries of theLeetani, theLartolaeetae, and others, are both furnished with excellent harbours and fertile.Emporium was founded by the people ofMarseilles, and is about 4000 stadia distant from thePyrenees, and the confines ofIberia andKeltica. This is a very fine region, and possesses good ports. Here also isRhode, a small town of theEmporitae, but some say it was founded by theRhodians. Both here and inEmporium they reverence theEphesianDiana. The cause of this we will explain when we come to speak ofMassalia. in former times theEmporitae dwelt on a small island opposite, now called the old city, but at the present day they inhabit the mainland. The city is double, being divided by a wall, for in past times some of theIndiceti dwelt close by, who, although they had a separate polity to themselves, desired, for the sake of safety, to be shut in by a common enclosure with the Greeks; but at the same time that this enclosure should be two-fold, being divided through its middle by a wall. In time, however, they came to have but one government, a mixture of Barbarian and Greek laws; a result which has taken place in many other [states].
§ 3.4.9 A river flows near to it, which has its sources in thePyrenees; its outlet forms a port for theEmporitae, who are skilful workers in flax. Of the interior of their country some parts are fertile, others covered with spartum, a rush which flourishes in marshes, and is entirely useless: they call this the Iugarium Plain. There are some who inhabit thePyrenean mountains as far as theTrophies ofPompey, on the route which leads fromItaly into UlteriorIberia, and particularly intoBaetica. This road runs sometimes close to the sea, sometimes at a distance therefrom, particularly in the western parts. From theTrophies ofPompey it leads toTarraco, through the Iugarium Plain, theBetteres, and the plain called in theLatin tongue [the plain] ofMarathon, on account of the quantity of fennel growing there. FromTarraco [the road runs] towards the passage of theEbro at the city ofDertossa; from thence having traversed the city ofSaguntum, and Setabis, it follows a course more and more distant from the sea, till it approaches the Plain of Spartarium, which signifies the Plain of Rushes. This is a vast arid plain, producing the species of rush from which cords are made, and which are exported to all parts, but particularly toItaly. Formerly the road passed on through the midst of the plain, and [the city of] Egelastae, which was both difficult and long, but they have now constructed a new road close to the sea, which merely touches upon the Plain of Rushes, and leads to the same places as the former, [viz.]Castlon, andObulco, through which runs the road toCorduba andGades, the two greatest emporia [ofIberia].Obulco is distant about 300 stadia fromCorduba. Historians report thatCaesar came fromRome toObulco, and to his army there, within the space of twenty-seven days, when about to fight the battle ofMunda.
§ 3.4.10 Such is the whole sea-coast from thePillars to the confines of theIberians andKelts. The interior of the country lying above, and included between the mountains of thePyrenees and the northern side [ofIberia], as far as theAstures, is principally divided by two mountain chains; the one of these is parallel to thePyrenees, and takes its commencement from the country of theCantabri, terminating at the Mediterranean. This is called the Idubeda. The second, springing from the middle [of this first], runs towards the west, inclining however to the south and the sea-coast towards thePillars. At the commencement it consists of bare hills, but after traversing the Plain of Spartarium, falls in with the forest lying aboveCarthage, and the regions roundMalaca. It is namedOrospeda. The riverEbro flows between thePyrenees and Idubeda, and parallel to both these mountains. It is fed by the rivers and other waters carried down from [the mountains]. Situated on theEbro is the city ofCaesar Augusta, and the colony ofCelsa, where there is a stone bridge across the river. This country is inhabited by many nations, the best known being that of theIaccetani. Commencing at the foot of thePyrenees, it widens out into the plains, and reaches to the districts aroundIlerda andOsca, [cities] of theIlergetes not far distant from theEbro. It was in these cities, and inCalaguris, a city of theVascons, as well as those ofTarraco andHemeroscopium, situated on the coast, thatSertorius sustained the last efforts of the war, after being ejected from the country of theKeltiberians. He died atOsca, and it was near toIlerda thatAfranius andPetreius,Pompey's generals, were afterwards defeated by divusCaesar.Ilerda is distant 160 stadia from theEbro, which is on its west, about 460 fromTarraco, which is on the south, and 540 fromOsca, which lies to the north. Passing through these places fromTarraco to the extremities of theVascons who dwell by the ocean, nearPompelon and the city of Oeaso situated on the ocean, the route extends 2400 stadia, to the very frontiers ofAquitaine andIberia. It was in the country of theIaccetani thatSertorius fought againstPompey, and here afterwardsSextus,Pompey's son, fought against the generals ofCaesar. The nation of theVascons, in which isPompelon, orPompey's city, lies north of Iaccetania.
§ 3.4.11 The side of thePyrenees nextIberia is covered with forests containing numerous kinds of trees and evergreens, whilst the side nextKeltica is bare: in the midst [the mountains] enclose valleys admirably fitted for the habitation of man. These are mainly possessed by theKerretani, a people of theIberians. The hams they cure are excellent, fully equal to those of theCantabrians, and they realize no inconsiderable profit to the inhabitants.
§ 3.4.12 Immediately after passing Idubeda, you enter onKeltiberia, a large and irregular country. It is for the most part rugged, and watered by rivers, being traversed by theAna, theTagus, and many other of the rivers which flow into the western sea, but have their sources inKeltiberia. Of their number is theDouro, which flows byNumantia andSerguntia. TheBaetis rises inOrospeda, and after passing throughOretania, entersBaetica. TheBerones inhabit the districts north of theKeltiberians, and are neighbours of theConisciCantabrians. They likewise had their origin in theKeltic expedition. Their city isVaria, situated near to the passage of theEbro. They are adjacent to theBardyitae, now called theBardyli. To the west [of theKeltiberians] are certain of theAstures,Gallicians, andVaccaei, besidesVettones andCarpetani. On the south are theOretani, and the other inhabitants ofOrospeda, bothBastetani andEdetani, and to the east is Idubeda.
§ 3.4.13 Of the four divisions into which theKeltiberians are separated, the most powerful are theAruaci, situated to the east and south, near to theCarpetani and the sources of theTagus. Their most renowned city isNumantia. They showed their valour in the war of twenty years, waged by theKeltiberians against the Romans; for many armies of the Romans, together with their generals, were destroyed; and in the end theNumantians, besieged within their city, endured the famine with constancy, till, reduced to a very small number, they were compelled to surrender the place. TheLusones are also situated to the east, and likewise border on the sources of theTagus.Segeda andPallantia are cities of theAruaci.Numantia is distant fromCaesar Augusta, situated as we have said upon theEbro, about 800 stadia. Near toSegobriga andBilbilis, likewise cities of theKeltiberians, was fought the battle betweenMetellus andSertorius.Polybius, describing the people and countries of theVaccaei andKeltiberians, enumerates Segesama andIntercatia amongst their other cities.Posidonius tells us thatMarcus Marcellus exacted ofKeltiberia a tribute of 600 talents, which proves that theKeltiberians were a numerous and wealthy people, notwithstanding the little fertility of their country.Polybius narrates thatTiberius Gracchus destroyed 300 cities of theKeltiberians. ThisPosidonius ridicules, and asserts that to flatterGracchus,Polybius described as cities the towers such as are exhibited in the triumphal processions. This is not incredible; for both generals and historians easily fall into this species of deception, by exaggerating their doings. Those who assert thatIberia contained more than a thousand cities, seem to me to have been carried away in a similar manner, and to have denominated as cities what were merely large villages; since, from its very nature, this country is incapable of maintaining so many cities, on account of its sterility, wildness, and its out-of-the-way position. Nor, with the exception of those who dwell along the shores of the Mediterranean, is any such statement confirmed by the mode of life or actions of the inhabitants. The inhabitants of the villages, who constitute the majority of theIberians, are quite uncivilized. Even the cities cannot very easily refine the manners [of their inhabitants], as the neighbouring woods are full of robbers, waiting only an opportunity to inflict injury on the citizens.
§ 3.4.14 Beyond theKeltiberians to the south are the inhabitants ofOrospeda and the country about theSucro, theSidetani, [who extend] as far asCarthage, and theBastetani andOretani, [who extend] almost as far asMalaca.
§ 3.4.15 All theIberians, so to speak, were peltastae, furnished with light arms for the purposes of robbery, and, as we described theLusitanians, using the javelin, the sling, and the sword. They have some cavalry interspersed amongst the foot-soldiers, thehorses are trained to traverse the mountains, and to sink down on their knees at the word of command, in case of necessity.Iberia produces abundance of antelopes and wildhorses. In many places the lakes are stocked. They have fowl, swans, and birds of similar kind, and vast numbers of bustards. Beavers are found in the rivers, but the castor does not possess the same virtue as that from theEuxine, the drug from that place having peculiar properties of its own, as is the case in many other instances. ThusPosidonius tells us that theCyprian copper alone produces the cadmian stone, copperas-water, and oxide of copper. He likewise informs us of the singular fact, that inIberia thecrows are not black; and that thehorses ofKeltiberia which are spotted, lose that colour when they pass into UlteriorIberia. He compares them to theParthianhorses, for indeed they are superior to all other breeds, both in fleetness and their ease in speedy travelling.
§ 3.4.16 Iberia produces a large quantity of roots used in dyeing. In olives, vines, figs, and every kind of similar fruit trees, theIberian coast next the Mediterranean abounds, they are likewise plentiful beyond. Of the coasts next the ocean, that towards the north is destitute of them, on account of the cold, and the remaining portion generally on account of the apathy of the men, and because they do not lead a civilized life, but pass their days in poverty, only acting on the animal impulse, and living most corruptly. They do not attend to ease or luxury, unless any one considers it can add to the happiness of their lives to wash themselves and their wives in stale urine kept in tanks, and to rinse their teeth with it, which they say is the custom both with theCantabrians and their neighbours. This practice, as well as that of sleeping on the ground, is common both among theIberians andKelts. Some say that theGallicians are atheists, but that theKeltiberians, and their neighbours to the north, [sacrifice] to a nameless god, every full moon, at night, before their doors, the whole family passing the night in dancing and festival. TheVettones, the first time they came to a Roman camp, and saw certain of the officers walking up and down the roads for the mere pleasure of walking, supposed that they were mad, and offered to show them the way to their tents. For they thought, when not fighting, one should remain quietly seated at ease.
§ 3.4.17 WhatArtemidorus relates concerning the adornment of certain of their women, must likewise be attributed to their barbarous customs. He says that they wear iron collars havingcrows fixed to them which bend over the head, and fall forward considerably over the forehead. When they wish they draw their veil over thesecrows, so as to shade the whole face: this they consider an ornament. Others wear a tympanium surrounding the occiput, and fitting tight to the head as far as the ears, turning over [and increasing] little by little in height and breadth. Others again make bald the front of the head, in order to display the forehead to greater advantage. Some twist their flowing hair round a small style, a foot high, and afterwards cover it with a black veil. Of singularities like these many have been observed and recorded as to all theIberian nations in common, but particularly those towards the north not only concerning their bravery, but likewise their cruelty and brutal madness. For in the war against theCantabrians, mothers have slain their children sooner than suffer them to be captured; and a young boy, having obtained a sword, slew, at the command of his father, both his parents and brothers, who had been made prisoners and were bound, and a woman those who had been taken together with her. A man being invited by a party of drunken [soldiers] to their feast, threw himself into a fire. These feelings are common both to theKeltic, Thracian, andScythian nations, as well as the valour not only of their men, but likewise of their women. These till the ground, and after parturition, having put their husbands instead of themselves to bed, they wait upon them. Frequently in their employment they wash and swathe their infants, sitting down by some stream.Posidonius tells us that inLiguria, his host Charmoleon, a man who came fromMarseilles, related to him, that having hired some men and women to dig his land, one of the women was seized with the pains of labour, and going to a little distance from where they were at work, she brought forth, and returned immediately to her work, for fear she might lose her pay. He observed that she was evidently working in considerable pain, but was not aware of the cause till towards evening, when he ascertained it, and sent her away, having given her her wages. She then carried her infant to a small spring, and having washed it, wrapped it up in as good swaddling clothes as she could get, and made the best of her way home.
§ 3.4.18 Another practice, not restricted to theIberians alone, is for two to mount on onehorse, so that in the event of a conflict, one may be there to fight on foot. Neither are they the only sufferers in being tormented with vast swarms ofmice, from which pestilential diseases have frequently ensued. This occurred to the Romans inCantabria, so that they caused it to be proclaimed, that whoever would catch themice should receive rewards according to the number taken, and [even with this] they were scarcely preserved, as they were suffering besides from want of corn and other necessaries, it being difficult to get supplies of corn fromAquitaine on account of the rugged nature of the country. It is a proof of the ferocity of theCantabrians, that a number of them having been taken prisoners and fixed to the cross, they chanted songs of triumph. Instances such as these are proofs of the ferocity of their manners. There are others which, although not showing them to be polished, are certainly not brutish. For example, amongst theCantabrians, the men give dowries to their wives, and the daughters are left heirs, but they procure wives for their brothers. These things indicate a degree of power in the woman, although they are no proof of advanced civilization. It is also a custom with theIberians to furnish themselves with a poison, which kills without pain, and which they procure from a herb resembling parsley. This they hold in readiness in case of misfortune, and to devote themselves for those whose cause they have joined, thus dying for their sake.
§ 3.4.19 Some, as I have said, state that this country is separated into four divisions; others, into five. It is not easy to state any thing precisely on these points, both on account of the changes which the places have undergone, and by reason of their obscurity. In well-known and notable countries both the migrations are known, and the divisions of the land, and the changes of their names, and every thing else of the same kind. Such matters being the common topics with everybody, and especially with the Greeks, who are more talkative than any other people. But in barbarous and out-of-the-way countries, and such as are cut up into small divisions, and lie scattered, the remembrance of such occurrences is not nearly so certain, nor yet so full. If these countries are far removed from the Greeks [our] ignorance is increased. For although the Roman historians imitate the Greeks, they fall far short of them. What they relate is taken from the Greeks, very little being the result of their own ardour in acquiring information. So that whenever any thing has been omitted by the former there is not much supplied by the latter. Add to this, that the names most celebrated are generally Grecian. Formerly the name ofIberia was given to the whole country between theRhone and the isthmus formed by the two Galatic gulfs; whereas now they make thePyrenees its boundary, and call it indifferentlyIberia orHispania; others have restrictedIberia to the country on this side theEbro. Still earlier it bore the name of theIgletes, who inhabited but a small district, according toAsclepiades theMyrlean. The Romans call the whole indifferentlyIberia andHispania, but designate one portion of it Ulterior, and the otherCiterior. However, at different periods they have divided it differently, according to its political aspect at various times.
§ 3.4.20 At the present time some of the provinces having been assigned to the people and senate of the Romans, and the others to the emperor,Baetica appertains to the people, and a praetor has been sent into the country, having under him a quaestor and a lieutenant. Its eastern boundary has been fixed near toCastlon. The remainder belongs to the emperor, who deputes two lieutenants, a praetor, and a consul. The praetor with a lieutenant administers justice amongst theLusitanians, who are situated nextBaetica, and extend as far as the outlets of the riverDouro, for at the present time this district is calledLusitania by the inhabitants. Here is [the city of]Augusta Emerita. What remains, which is [indeed] the greater part ofIberia, is governed by the consul, who has under him a respectable force, consisting of about three legions, with three lieutenants, one of whom with two legions guards the whole country north of theDouro, the inhabitants of which formerly were styledLusitanians, but are now calledGallicians. The northern mountains, together with theAsturian andCantabrian, border on these. The river Melsus flows through the country of theAsturians, and at a little distance is the city of Nougat, close to an estuary formed by the ocean, which separates theAsturians from theCantabrians. The second lieutenant with the remaining legion governs the adjoining district as far as thePyrenees. The third oversees the midland district, and governs the cities inhabited by the togati, whom we have before alluded to as inclined to peace, and who have adopted the refined manners and mode of life of theItalians, together with the toga. These are theKeltiberians, and those who dwell on either side of theEbro, as far as the sea-coast. The consul passes the winter in the maritime districts, mostly administering justice either in [the city of]Carthage, orTarraco. During the summer he travels through the country, observing whatever may need reform. There are also the procurators of the emperor, men of the equestrian rank, who distribute the pay to the soldiers for their maintenance.
§ 3.5.1 OF the islands which are situated in front ofIberia, two named thePityussae, and two theGymnasiae, (also called the Baleares,) are situated on the sea-coast betweenTarraco and [the river]Sucro, on whichSaguntum is built. ThePityussae are situated farther in the high seas and more to the West than theGymnasiae. One of thePityussae is called Ebusus, having a city of the same name. This island is 400 stadia in circumference, and nearly equal in its breadth and length. The other, [named]Orpheus, is situated near to this, but is desert, and much smaller. The larger of theGymnasiae contains two cities,Palma, andPolentia; the latter lying towards the east, the former towards the west. The length of this island is scarcely less than 600 stadia, its breadth 200; althoughArtemidorus asserts it is twice this size both in breadth and length. The smaller island is about [2]70 stadia distant fromPolentia; in size it is far surpassed by the larger island, but in excellence it is by no means inferior, for both of them are very fertile, and furnished with harbours. At the mouths of these however there are rocks rising but a little out of the water, which renders attention necessary in entering them. The fertility of these places inclines the inhabitants to peace, as also the people ofEbusus. But certain malefactors, though few in number, having associated with thepirates in those seas, they all got a bad name, andMetellus, surnamedBalearicus, marched against them. He it was who built the cities. But owing to the great fertility of the country, these people have always had enemies plotting against them. Although naturally disposed to peace, they bear the reputation of being most excellent slingers, which art they have been proficient in since the time that thePhoenicians possessed the islands. It is said that these were the first who introduced amongst the men [of theBaleares] the custom of wearing tunics with wide borders. They were accustomed to go into battle naked, having a shield covered withgoat-skin in their hand, and a javelin hardened by fire at the point, very rarely with an iron tip, and wearing round the head three slings of black rush, hair, or sinew. The long sling they use for hitting at far distances, the short one for near marks, and the middle one for those between. From childhood they were so thoroughly practised in the use of slings, that bread was never distributed to the children till they had won it by the sling. On this accountMetellus, when he was approaching the islands, spread pelts over the decks as a shelter from the slings. He introduced into the country 3000 Roman colonists from Spain.
§ 3.5.2 In addition to the fruitfulness of the land, noxious animals are rarely to be met with. Even the rabbits, they say, were not indigenous, but that a male and female having been introduced by some one from the opposite continent, from thence the whole stock sprung, which formerly was so great a nuisance that even houses and trees were overturned, [being undermined] by their warrens, and the inhabitants were compelled, as we have related, to resort for refuge to the Romans. However, at the present day the facility with which these animals are taken, prevents them from doing injury, consequently those who possess land cultivate it with advantage. These [islands] are on this side of what are called thePillars of Hercules.
§ 3.5.3 Near to them are two small islands, one of which is called the Island ofJuno: some call these thePillars. Beyond thePillars isGades, concerning which all that we have hitherto remarked is, that it is distant fromCalpe about 750 stadia, and is situated near to the outlet of theBaetis. Notwithstanding there is much can be said about it. For its inhabitants equip the greatest number of ships, and the largest in size, both for our sea, and the exterior [ocean], although the island they inhabit is by no means large, nor yet do they possess much of the mainland, nor are masters of other islands. They dwell for the most part on the sea, only a few staying at home or passing their time inRome. Still, in amount of population, their city does not seem to be surpassed by any with the exception ofRome. I have heard that in a census taken within our own times, there were enumerated five hundred citizens ofGades of the equestrian order, a number equalled by none of theItalian cities excepting that of thePatavini. However, notwithstanding their vast number, its inhabitants possess an island, in length not much above 100 stadia, and in some places only one stadium in breadth. Originally the city in which they dwelt was extremely small, butBalbus theGaditanian, who received the honours of a triumph, added another to it which they call the New Town. These two form the city of Didyme, which is not above twenty stadia in circumference. In it, however, they are not pressed for room, because few live at home, the majority passing their lives on the sea, some too dwelling on the opposite continent, and particularly on a little island adjacent on account of its excellence. They have such a liking for this place as almost to have made it a rival city to Didyme. However, few in comparison inhabit either this or the sea-port whichBalbus constructed for them on the opposite continent. Their city is situated in the western parts of the island. Near to it is the sanctuary ofSaturn, which terminates [Gades to the west], and is opposite the smaller island. The sanctuary ofHercules is on the other side, to the east, where the island approaches nearest to the mainland, being only separated therefrom by a strait of a stadium [in breadth]. They say that this sanctuary is twelve miles from the city, thus making the number of miles and the number of [Hercules'] labours equal: but this is too great, being almost equal to the length of the island. Now the length of the island runs from west to east.
§ 3.5.4 Pherecydes appears to have given toGades the name ofErythia, the locality of the myths concerningGeryon: others suppose it to have been the island situated near to this city, and separated from it by a strait of merely one stadium. This they do on account of the excellence of its pasturage. For the milk of thecattle which feed there does not yield any whey, and they are obliged to mix it with large quantities of water when they make cheese on account of its richness. After fifty days the beasts [pasturing there] would be choked unless they were let blood. The pasturage of the country is dry, but it fattens wonderfully: and it is thought that from this the myth concerning theoxen ofGeryon took its rise. The whole sea-shore however is possessed in common.
§ 3.5.5 Concerning the foundation ofGades, theGaditanians report that a certain oracle commanded theTyrians to found a colony by thePillars of Hercules. Those who were sent out for the purpose of exploring, when they had arrived at the strait byCalpe, imagined that the capes which form the strait were the boundaries of the habitable earth, as well as of the expedition ofHercules, and consequently they were what the oracle termed thePillars. They landed on the inside of the straits, at a place where the city of theExitani now stands. Here they offered sacrifices, which however not being favourable, they returned. After a time others were sent, who advanced about 1500 stadia beyond the strait, to an island consecrated toHercules, and lying opposite toOnoba, a city ofIberia: considering that here were thePillars, they sacrificed to the god, but the sacrifices being again unfavourable, they returned home. In the third voyage they reachedGades, and founded the sanctuary in the eastern part of the island, and the city in the west. On this account some consider that the capes in the strait are thePillars, others supposeGades, while others again believe that they lie still farther, beyondGades. There are also some who think that thePillars areCalpe, and the mountain ofLibya which is opposite, namedAbilyx, and situated, according toEratosthenes, amongst theMetagonians, a wandering race. Others fancy that they are two small islands near to the former, one of which is named the Island ofJuno.Artemidorus speaks both of the Island ofJuno and the sanctuary there, but makes no mention either of mountAbilyx, or the nation of theMetagonians. Some have transported hither thePlanctae and theSymplgades, supposing them to be thePillars, whichPindar calls the Gates ofGades, when he says that they were the farthest limits at whichHercules arrived.Dicaearchus,Eratosthenes, andPolybius, with most of the Grecians, represent thePillars as being close to the strait, while theIberians andLibyans place them atGades, alleging that there is nothing at all resembling pillars close by the strait. Others pretend that they are the pillars of brass eight cubits high in the sanctuary ofHercules atGades, on which is inscribed the cost of erecting that edifice; and that the sailors coming there on the completion of their voyage and sacrificing toHercules, rendered the place so famous that it came to be regarded as the termination of the land and sea.Posidonius thinks this view the most probable of all, and looks upon the oracle and the several expeditions as aPhoenician invention. As for the expeditions, what matters it whether any one should vehemently deny or credit the account, as neither the one nor the other would be inconsistent with reason: but the assertion that neither the little islands, nor yet the mountains, bear much resemblance to pillars, and that we should seek for pillars, strictly so called, [set up] either as the termination of the habitable earth, or of the expedition ofHercules, has at all events some reason in it; it being an ancient usage to set up such boundary marks. As for instance the smallcolumn which the inhabitants ofRhegium erected by theStrait of Sicily, which is indeed a little tower; and the tower called afterPelorus, which is situated opposite to this small column; also the structures calledaltars of the Philaeni, about midway in the land between theSyrtes; likewise it is recorded, that a certain pillar was formerly erected on theIsthmus ofCorinth, which theIonians who took possession ofAttica andMegaris when they were driven out of thePeloponnesus, and those who settled in thePeloponnesus, set up in common, and inscribed on the side nextMegaris, "This is no longerPeloponnesus, butIonia," and on the opposite, "This isPeloponnesus, notIonia. "Alexander too erected altars as boundaries of hisIndian campaign in those parts of the Indies he arrived at, which were situated farthest towards the east, in imitation ofHercules andBacchus. That this custom existed, then, cannot be doubted.
§ 3.5.6 It is probable that the places themselves took the same name [as the monuments], especially after time had destroyed the boundary marks which had been placed there. For instance, at the present day thealtars of the Philaeni no longer exist, but the place itself bears that designation. Similarly they say that inIndia neither thepillars of Hercules orBacchus are to be seen, nevertheless certain localities being described and pointed out to theMacedonians, they believed that those places were the pillars in which they discovered any trace either of the adventures ofBacchus orHercules. In the instance before us, it is not improbable that they who first [visited these regions], set up boundary marks fashioned by the hand of man, such as altars, towers, and pillars, in the most remarkable situations, to indicate the farthest distance they had reached, (and straits, the surrounding mountains, and little islands, are indubitably the most remarkable situations for pointing out the termination or commencement of places,) and that after these human monuments had decayed, their names descended to the places [where they had stood]; whether that were the little islands or the capes forming the strait. This latter point it would not be easy now to determine; the name would suit either place, as they both bear some resemblance to pillars; I say bear some resemblance, because they are placed in such situations as might well indicate boundaries. Now this strait is styled a mouth, as well as many others, but the mouth is at the beginning to those sailing into the strait, and to those who are quitting it at the end. The little islands at the mouth having a contour easy to describe, and being remarkable, one might not improperly compare to pillars. In like manner the mountains overlooking the strait are prominent, resembling columns or pillars. So tooPindar might very justly have said, "TheGaditanian Gates," if he had in mind the pillars at the mouth; for these mouths are very similar to gates. On the other hand,Gades is not in a position to indicate an extremity, but is situated about the middle of a long coast forming a kind of gulf. The supposition that the pillars of the sanctuary ofHercules inGades are intended, appears to me still less probable. It seems most likely that the name was originally conferred not by merchants, but generals, its celebrity afterwards became universal, as was the case with theIndian pillars. Besides, the inscription recorded refutes this idea, since it contains no religious dedication, but a mere list of expenses; whereas thepillars of Hercules should have been a record of the hero's wonderful deeds, not ofPhoenician expenditure.
§ 3.5.7 Polybius relates that there is a spring within the sanctuary ofHercules atGades, having a descent of a few steps to fresh water, which is affected in a manner the reverse of the sea tides, subsiding at the flow of the tide, and springing at the ebb. He assigns as the cause of this phenomenon, that air rises from the interior to the surface of the earth; when this surface is covered by the waves, at the rising of the sea, the air is deprived of its ordinary vents, and returns to the interior, stopping up the passages of the spring, and causing a want of water, but when the surface is again laid bare, the air having a direct exit liberates the channels which feed the spring, so that it gushes freely.Artemidorus rejects this explanation, and substitutes one of his own, recording at the same time the opinion of the historianSilanus; but neither one or other of their views seems to me worth relating, since both he andSilanus were ignorant in regard to these matters.Posidonius asserts that the entire account is false, and adds that there are two wells in the sanctuary ofHercules, and a third in the city. That the smaller of the two in the sanctuary ofHercules, if drawn from frequently, will become for a time exhausted, but that on ceasing to draw from it, it fills again: while in regard to the larger, it may be drawn from during the whole day; that it is true it becomes lower, like all other wells, but that it fills again during the night when drawing ceases. [He adds] that the ebb tide frequently happening to occur during the period of its re-filling, gave rise to the groundless belief of the inhabitants as to its being affected in an opposite manner [to the tides of the ocean]. However it is not only related by him that it is a commonly believed fact, but we have received it from tradition as much referred to amongst paradoxes. We have likewise heard that there are wells both within the city and also in the gardens without, but that on account of the inferiority of this water, tanks are generally constructed throughout the city for the supply of water: whether likewise any of these reservoirs give any signs of being affected in an opposite manner to the tides, we know not. If such be the case, the causes thereof should be received as amongst phenomena hard to be explained. It is likely thatPolybius may have assigned the proper reason; but it is also likely that certain of the channels of the springs being damped outside become relaxed, and so let the water run out into the surrounding land, instead of forcing it along its ancient passage to the spring; and there will of course be moisture when the tide overflows. But if, asAthenodorus asserts, the ebb and flow resemble the inspiration and expiration of the breath, it is possible that some of the currents of water which naturally have an efflux on to the surface of the earth, through various channels, the mouths of which we denominate springs and fountains, are by other channels drawn towards the depths of the sea, and raise it, so as to produce a flood-tide; when the expiration is sufficient, they leave off the course in which they are then flowing, and again revert to their former direction, when that again takes a change.
§ 3.5.8 I cannot tell how it is thatPosidonius, who describes thePhoenicians as sagacious in other things, should here attribute to them folly rather than shrewdness. The sun completes his revolution in the space of a day and night, being a portion of the time beneath the earth, and a portion of the time shining upon it. Now he asserts that the motion of the sea corresponds with the revolution of the heavenly bodies, and experiences a diurnal, monthly, and annual change, in strict accordance with the changes of the moon. For [he continues] when the moon is elevated one sign of the zodiac above the horizon, the sea begins sensibly to swell and cover the shores, until she has attained her meridian; but when that satellite begins to decline, the sea again retires by degrees, until the moon wants merely one sign of the zodiac from setting; it then remains stationary until the moon has set, and also descended one sign of the zodiac below the horizon, when it again rises until she has attained her meridian below the earth; it then retires again until the moon is within one sign of the zodiac of her rising above the horizon, when it remains stationary until the moon has risen one sign of the zodiac above the earth, and then begins to rise as before. Such he describes to be the diurnal revolution. In respect to the monthly revolution, [he says] that the spring-tides occur at the time of the new moon, when they decrease until the first quarter; they then increase until full moon, when they again decrease until the last quarter, after which they increase till the new moon; [he adds] that these increases ought to be understood both of their duration and speed. In regard to the annual revolution, he says that he learned from the statements of theGaditanians, that both the ebb and flow tides were at their extremes at the summer solstice: and that hence he conjectured that they decreased until the [autumnal] equinox; then increased till the winter solstice; then decreased again until the vernal equinox; and [finally] increased until the summer solstice. But since these revolutions occur twice in the four-and-twenty hours, the sea rising twice and receding twice, and that regularly every day and night, how is it that the filling and failing of the well do not frequently occur during the ebb and flow of the tide? or if it be allowed that this does often occur, why does it not do so in the same proportion? and if it does so in the same proportion, how comes it that theGaditanians are not competent to observe what is of daily occurrence, while they are nevertheless competent to the observing of revolutions which occur but once in the year. ThatPosidonius himself credited these reports is evident from his own conjecture respecting the decrease and increase [of the sea] from solstice to solstice. However, it is not likely, being an observant people, that they should be ignorant of what actually occurred, whilst giving credit to imaginary phenomena.
§ 3.5.9 Posidonius tells us thatSeleucus, a native of the country next theErythraean Sea, states that the regularity and irregularity of the ebb and flow of the sea follow the different positions of the moon in the zodiac; that when she is in the equinoctial signs the tides are regular, but that when she is in the signs next the tropics, the tides are irregular both in their height and force; and that for the remaining signs the irregularity is greater or less, according as they are more or less removed from the signs before mentioned.Posidonius adds, that during the summer solstice and whilst the moon was full, he himself passed many days in the sanctuary ofHercules atGades, but could not observe any thing of these annual irregularities. However, about the new moon of the same month he observed atIlipa a great change in the reflux of the water of theBaetis, as compared with previous flood-tides, in which the water did not rise half as high as the banks, and that then the water poured in so copiously, that the soldiers there dipped their supply without difficulty, althoughIlipa is about 700 stadia from the sea. He says, that the plains next the sea were covered by the tides to a distance of 30 stadia, and to such a depth as to form islands, while the basement of the sanctuary in the enclosure dedicated toHercules, and the top of the mole in front of the harbour ofGades, were not covered higher than 10 cubits, as observed by actual soundings; but if any one should add the double of that for the occasional risings of the tide which occur, [neither] thus would he be able to estimate the violence with which the full force of the high tide rushes over the plains.Posidonius informs us that this violence [of the tide] is common to all the coasts of Spain on theAtlantic, but what he relates concerning theEbro is unusual and peculiar to itself, for he says that it sometimes overflows after continued north winds, although there may have been neither rains nor snows. The cause of this [he supposes] to be the lake through which theEbro flows, its waters being driven by the winds into the current of the river.
§ 3.5.10 The same writer mentions a tree atGades, which had boughs reaching to the ground; its sword-shaped leaves often measuring a cubit long, and four fingers broad. Also that aboutCarthagena there was a tree whose thorns produced a bark from which most beautiful stuffs were woven. As for the tree [he saw] atGades, we ourselves have observed a similar inEgypt, so far as the inclination of the boughs is concerned, but with a differently shaped leaf, and producing no fruit, which according to him the other did. InCappadocia there are stuffs made from thorns, but it is not a tree which produces the thorn from which the bark is taken, but a low plant; he also tells us of a tree atGades, from which if a branch be broken off a milk will flow, and if the root be cut a red fluid runs. Thus much forGades.
§ 3.5.11 TheCassiterides are ten in number, and lie near each other in the ocean towards the north from the haven of theArtabri. One of them is desert, but the others are inhabited by men in black cloaks, clad in tunics reaching to the feet, girt about the breast, and walking with staves, thus resembling theFuries we see in tragic representations. They subsist by theircattle, leading for the most part a wandering life. Of the metals they have tin and lead; which with skins they barter with the merchants for earthenware, salt, and brazen vessels. Formerly thePhoenicians alone carried on this traffic fromGades, concealing the passage from every one; and when the Romans followed a certain ship-master, that they also might find the market, the shipmaster of jealousy purposely ran his vessel upon a shoal, leading on those who followed him into the same destructive disaster; he himself escaped by means of a fragment of the ship, and received from the state the value of the cargo he had lost. The Romans nevertheless by frequent efforts discovered the passage, and as soon asPublius Crassus, passing over to them, perceived that the metals were dug out at a little depth, and that the men were peaceably disposed, he declared it to those who already wished to traffic in this sea for profit, although the passage was longer than that toBritain. Thus far concerningIberia and the adjacent islands.
§ 4.1.1 NEXT in order [afterIberia] comesKeltica beyond theAlps, the configuration and size of which has been already mentioned in a general manner; we are now to describe it more particularly. Some divide it into the three nations of theAquitani, Belge, and Kelte. Of these theAquitani differ completely from the other nations, not only in their language but in their figure, which resembles more that of theIberians than theGalatae. The others are Galatae in countenance, although they do not all speak the same language, but some make a slight difference in their speech; neither is their polity and mode of life exactly the same. These writers give the name ofAquitani andKeltae to the dwellers near thePyrenees, which are bounded by theCevennes. For it has been stated that thisKeltica is bounded on the west by the mountains of thePyrenees, which extend to either sea, both the Mediterranean and the ocean; on the east by theRhine, which is parallel to thePyrenees; on the north by the ocean, from the northern extremities of thePyrenees to the mouths of theRhine; on the south by the sea ofMarseilles, andNarbonne, and by theAlps fromLiguria to the sources of theRhine. TheCevennes lie at right angles to thePyrenees, and traverse the plains for about 2000 stadia, terminating in the middle nearLugdunum. They call those peopleAquitani who inhabit the northern portions of thePyrenees, and theCevennes extending as far as the ocean, and bounded by the riverGaronne; andKeltae, those who dwell on the other side of theGaronne, towards the sea ofMarseilles andNarbonne, and touching a portion of theAlpine chain. This is the division adopted by divusCaesar in his Commentaries. ButAugustus Caesar, when dividing the country into four parts, united theKeltae to the Narbonnaise; theAquitani he preserved the same asJulius Caesar, but added thereto fourteen other nations of those who dwelt between theGaronne and the riverLoire, and dividing the rest into two parts, the one extending to the upper districts of theRhine he made dependent uponLugdunum, the other [he assigned] to theBelgae. However, it is the duty of the Geographer to describe the physical divisions of each country, and those which result from diversity of nations, when they seem worthy of notice; as to the limits which princes, induced by a policy which circumstances dictate, have variously imposed, it will be sufficient for him to notice them summarily, leaving others to furnish particular details.
§ 4.1.2 The whole of this country is irrigated by rivers descending from theAlps, theCevennes, and thePyrenees, some of which discharge themselves into the ocean, others into the Mediterranean. The districts through which they flow are mostly plains interspersed with hills, and having navigable streams. The course of these rivers is so happily disposed in relation to each other, that you may traffic from one sea to the other, carrying the merchandise only a small distance, and that easily, across the plains; but for the most part by the rivers, ascending some, and descending others. TheRhone is pre-eminent in this respect, both because it communicates with many other rivers, and also because it flows into the Mediterranean, which, as we have said, is superior to the ocean, and likewise passes through the richest provinces of Gaul. The whole of the Narbonnaise produces the same fruits asItaly. As we advance towards the north, and the mountains of theCevennes, the plantations of the olive and fig disappear, but the others remain. Likewise the vine, as you proceed northward, does not easily mature its fruit. The entire of the remaining country produces in abundance corn, millet, acorns, and mast of all kinds. No part of it lies waste except that which is taken up in marshes and woods, and even this is inhabited. The cause of this, however, is rather a dense population than the industry of the inhabitants. For the women there are both very prolific and excellent nurses, while the men devote themselves rather to war than husbandry. However, their arms being now laid aside, they are compelled to engage in agriculture. These remarks apply generally to the whole of TransalpineKeltica. We must now describe particularly each of the four divisions, which hitherto we have only mentioned in a summary manner. And, first, of the Narbonnaise.
§ 4.1.3 The configuration of this country resembles a parallelogram, the western side of which is traced by thePyrenees, the north by theCevennes; as for the other two sides, the south is bounded by the sea between thePyrenees andMarseilles, and the east partly by theAlps, and partly by a line drawn perpendicularly from these mountains to the foot of theCevennes, which extend towards theRhone, and form a right angle with the aforesaid perpendicular drawn from theAlps. To the southern side of this parallelogram we must add the sea-coast inhabited by theMassilienses andSalyes, as far as the country of theLigurians, the confines ofItaly, and the riverVar. This river, as we have said before, is the boundary of the Narbonnaise andItaly. It is but small in summer, but in winter swells to a breadth of seven stadia. From thence the coast extends to thesanctuary of the Pyrenaean Venus, which is the boundary between this province andIberia. Some, however, assert that the spot where theTrophies ofPompey stand is the boundary betweenIberia andKeltica. From thence toNarbonne is 63 miles; fromNarbonne toNemausus, 88; fromNemausus throughUgernum andTarusco, to the hot waters calledSextiae nearMarseilles, 53; from thence toAntipolis and the riverVar, 73; making in the total 277 miles. Some set down the distance from thesanctuary ofVenus to theVar at 2600 stadia; while others increase this number by 200 stadia; for there are different opinions as to these distances. As for the other road, which traverses the [countries of the]Vocontii andCottius, fromNemausus toUgernum andTarusco, the route is common; from thence [it branches off in two directions], one throughDruentia and Caballio, to the frontiers of theVocontii and the commencement of the ascent of theAlps, which is 63 miles; the other is reckoned at 99 miles from the same point to the other extremity of theVocontii, bordering on the state ofCottius, as far as the village ofEbrodunum. The distance is said to be the same by the route through the village ofBrigantium,Scingomagus, and the passage of theAlps toOcelum, which is the limit of the country ofCottius. However, it is considered to beItaly fromScingomagus. AndOcelum is 28 miles beyond this.
§ 4.1.4 Marseilles, founded by thePhocaeans, is built in a stony region. Its harbour lies beneath a rock, which is shaped like a theatre, and looks towards the south. It is well surrounded with walls, as well as the whole city, which is of considerable size. Within the citadel are placed theEphesium and the sanctuary of theDelphianApollo. This latter sanctuary is common to all theIonians; theEphesium is a temple consecrated toArtemis of Ephesus. They say that when thePhocaeans were about to quit their country, an oracle commanded them to take fromDiana ofEphesus a conductor for their voyage. On arriving atEphesus they therefore inquired how they might be able to obtain from the goddess what was enjoined them. The goddess appeared in a dream toAristarcha, one of the most honourable women of the city, and commanded her to accompany thePhocaeans, and to take with her a likeness of the sacred objects. These things being performed, and the colony being settled, thePhocaeans founded a sanctuary, and evinced their great respect forAristarcha by making her priestess. All the colonies [sent out fromMarseilles ] hold this goddess in peculiar reverence, preserving both the shape of the cult image [xoanon], and also every rite observed in the metropolis.
§ 4.1.5 TheMassilians live under a well-regulated aristocracy. They have a council composed of 600 persons called timouchi, who enjoy this dignity for life. Fifteen of these preside over the council, and have the management of current affairs; these fifteen are in their turn presided over by three of their number, in whom rests the principal authority; and these again by one. No one can become a timouchus who has not children, and who has not been a citizen for three generations. Their laws, which are the same as those of theIonians, they expound in public. Their country abounds in olives and vines, but on account of its ruggedness the wheat is poor. Consequently they trust more to the resources of the sea than of the land, and avail themselves in preference of their excellent position for commerce. Nevertheless they have been enabled by the power of perseverance to take in some of the surrounding plains, and also to found cities: of this number are the cities they founded inIberia as a rampart against theIberians, in which they introduced the worship ofDiana ofEphesus, as practised in their father-land, with the Grecian mode of sacrifice. In this number too are Rhoa [and]Agatha, [built for defence] against the barbarians dwelling around the riverRhone; alsoTauroentium,Olbia,Antipolis andNicaea, [built as a rampart] against the nation of theSalyes and theLigurians who inhabit theAlps. They possess likewise dry docks and armouries. Formerly they had an abundance of vessels, arms, and machines, both for the purposes of navigation and for besieging towns; by means of which they defended themselves against the barbarians, and likewise obtained the alliance of the Romans, to whom they rendered many important services; the Romans in their turn assisting in their aggrandizement.Sextius, who defeated theSalyes, founded, not far fromMarseilles, a city which was named after him and the hot waters, some of which they say have lost their heat. Here he established a Romangarrison, and drove from the sea-coast which leads fromMarseilles toItaly the barbarians, whom theMassilians were not able to keep back entirely. However, all he accomplished by this was to compel the barbarians to keep at a distance of twelve stadia from those parts of the coast which possessed good harbours, and at a distance of eight stadia where it was rugged. The land which they thus abandoned, he presented to theMassilians. In their city are laid up heaps of booty taken in naval engagements against those who disputed the sea unjustly. Formerly they enjoyed singular good fortune, as well in other matters as also in their amity with the Romans. Of this [amity] we find numerous signs, amongst others the statue ofDiana which the Romans dedicated on theAventine mount, of the same figure as that of theMassilians. Their prosperity has in a great measure decayed since the war ofPompey againstCaesar, in which they sided with the vanquished party. Nevertheless some traces of their ancient industry may still be seen amongst the inhabitants, especially the making of engines of war and ship-building. Still as the surrounding barbarians, now that they are under the dominion of the Romans, become daily more civilized, and leave the occupation of war for the business of towns and agriculture, there is no longer the same attention paid by the inhabitants ofMarseilles to these objects. The aspect of the city at the present day is a proof of this. For all those who profess to be men of taste, turn to the study of elocution and philosophy. Thus this city for some little time back has become a school for the barbarians, and has communicated to theGalatae such a taste for Greek literature, that they even draw contracts on the Grecian model. While at the present day it so entices the noblest of the Romans, that those desirous of studying resort thither in preference toAthens. These theGalatae observing, and being at leisure on account of the peace, readily devote themselves to similar pursuits, and that not merely individuals, but the public generally; professors of the arts and sciences, and likewise of medicine, being employed not only by private persons, but by towns for common instruction. Of the wisdom of theMassilians and the simplicity of their life, the following will not be thought an insignificant proof. The largest dowry amongst them consists of one hundred gold pieces, with five for dress, and five more for golden ornaments. More than this is not lawful.Caesar and his successors treated with moderation the offences of which they were guilty during the war, in consideration of their former friendship; and have preserved to the state the right of governing according to its ancient laws. So that neitherMarseilles nor the cities dependent on it are under submission to the governors sent [into the Narbonnaise]. So much forMarseilles.
§ 4.1.6 The mountains of theSalyes incline gently from west to north in proportion as they retire from the sea. The coast runs west, and extending a short distance, about 100 stadia, fromMarseilles, it begins to assume the character of a gulf at a considerable promontory near to certain stone quarries, and extending to theAphrodisium, the headland which terminates thePyrenees, forms the Galatic Gulf, which is also called the Gulf ofMarseilles: it is double, for in its circuit Mount Setium stands out together with the island ofBlascon, which is situated close to it, and separates the two gulfs. The larger of these is properly designated the Galatic Gulf, into which theRhone discharges itself; the smaller is on the coast ofNarbonne, and extends as far as thePyrenees.Narbonne is situated above the outlets of theAtax (Aude) and the lake ofNarbonne. It is the principal commercial city on this coast. On theRhone isArelate, a city and emporium of considerable traffic. The distance between these two cities is nearly equal to that which separates them from the aforesaid promontories, namely,Narbonne from theAphrodisium, andArelate from the cape ofMarseilles. There are other rivers besides which flow on either side ofNarbonne, some from theCevennes, others from thePyrenees. Along these rivers are situated cities not far upriver for small vessels. The rivers which proceed from thePyrenees, are theRuscinon (Tet) and theIlibirris (Tech); two cities are built on them, which bear respectively the same name as the rivers. There is a lake near toRuscino, and a little above the sea a marshy district full of salt springs, which supplies "dug mullets," for whoever digs two or three feet and plunges a trident into the muddy water, will be sure to take the fish, which are worthy of consideration on account of their size; they are nourished in the mud like eels. Such are the rivers which flow from thePyrenees betweenNarbonne and theAphrodisium. On the other side ofNarbonne the following rivers descend from theCevennes into the sea. TheAtax (Aude), the Orbis, and the Arauris. On the first of these latter is situated the strong city ofBaetera, near toNarbonne; on the lastAgatha, founded by the people ofMarseilles.
§ 4.1.7 Of one marvel of this sea-coast, namely the "dug mullets," we have already spoken; we will now mention another, even more surprising. BetweenMarseilles and the outlets of theRhone there is a circular plain, about 100 stadia distant from the sea, and about 100 stadia in diameter. It has received the name of Lithodes (the Stony Plain), from the circumstance of its being covered with stones the size of the fist, from beneath which an abundant herbage springs up for the pasturage ofcattle. In the midst of it are water, saltsprings, and salt. The whole both of this district and that above it is exposed to the wind, but in this plain the black north, a violent and horrible wind, rages especially: for they say that sometimes the stones are swept and rolled along, and men hurled from their carriages and stripped both of their arms and garments by the force of the tempest.Aristotle tells us that these stones being cast up by the earthquakes designated brastai, and falling on the surface of the earth, roll into the hollow places of the districts; butPosidonius, that the place was formerly a lake, which being congealed during a violent agitation, became divided into numerous stones, like river pebbles or the stones by the sea-shore, which they resemble both as to smoothness, size, and appearance. Such are the causes assigned by these two [writers]; however, neither of their opinions is credible, for these stones could neither have thus accumulated of themselves, nor yet have been formed by congealed moisture, but necessarily from the fragments of large stones shattered by frequent convulsions.Aeschylus having, however, learnt of the difficulty of accounting for it, or having been so informed by another, has explained it away as a myth. He makesPrometheus utter the following, whilst directingHercules the road from theCaucasus to theHesperides: "There you will come to the undaunted army of theLigurians, where, resistless though you be, sure am I you will not worst them in battle; for it is fated that there your darts shall fail you; nor will you be able to take up a stone from the ground, since the country consists of soft mould; butJupiter, beholding your distress, will compassionate you, and overshadowing the earth with a cloud, he will cause it to hail round stones, which you hurling against theLigurian army, will soon put them to flight!"Posidonius asks, would it not have been better to have rained down these stones upon theLigurians themselves, and thus have destroyed them all, than to makeHercules in need of so many stones? As for the number, they were necessary against so vast a multitude; so that in this respect the writer of the myth seems to me deserving of more credit than he who would refute it. Further, the poet, in describing it as fated, secures himself against such fault-finding. For if you dispute Providence and Destiny, you can find many similar things both in human affairs and nature, that you would suppose might be much better performed in this or that way; as for instance, thatEgypt should have plenty of rain of its own, without being irrigated from the land ofEthiopia. That it would have been much better ifParis had suffered shipwreck on his voyage toSparta, instead of expiating his offences after having carried offHelen, and having been the cause of so great destruction both amongst the Greeks and Barbarians.Euripides attributes this toJupiter: "FatherJupiter, willing evil to theTrojans and suffering to the Greeks, decreed such things."
§ 4.1.8 As to the mouths of theRhone,Polybius asserts that there are but two, and blamesTimaeus for saying five.Artemidorus says that there are three. AfterwardsMarius, observing that the mouth was becoming stopped up and difficult of entrance on account of the deposits of mud, caused a new channel to be dug, which received the greater part of the river into it. This he gave to the people ofMarseilles in recompense for their services in the war against theAmbrones and Toygeni. This canal became to them a source of much revenue, as they levied a toll from all those who sailed up or down it: notwithstanding, the entrance [to the river] still continues difficult to navigate, on account of its great impetuosity, its deposits, and the [general] flatness of the country, so that in foul weather you cannot clearly discern the land even when quite close. On this account the people ofMarseilles, who wished by all means to inhabit the country, set up towers as beacons; they have even set up a sanctuary ofDiana ofEphesus on a piece of the land, which the mouths of the rivers have formed into an island. Above the outlets of theRhone is a salt-lake which they callStomalimne. It abounds in shell and other fish. There are some who enumerate this amongst the mouths of theRhone, especially those who say that it has seven mouths. But in this they are quite mistaken; for there is a mountain between, which separates the lake from the river. Such then is the disposition and extent of the coast from thePyrenees toMarseilles.
§ 4.1.9 The [coast] which extends from this [last city] to the riverVar, and theLigurians who dwell near it, contains theMassilian cities ofTauroentium,Olbia,Antipolis,Nicaea, and the sea-port ofAugustus Caesar, calledForum Julium. which is situated betweenOlbia andAntipolis, and distant fromMarseilles about 600 stadia. TheVar is betweenAntipolis andNicaea; distant from the one about 20 stadia, from the other about 60; so that according to the boundary now markedNicaea belongs toItaly, although it is a city of the people ofMarseilles, for they built these cities [as a defence] against the barbarians who dwelt higher up the country, in order to maintain the sea free, as the barbarians possessed the land. For this [region] is mountainous and fortified by nature, leaving however a considerable extent of plain country nearMarseilles; but as you proceed towards the east the country is so hemmed in by the mountains, as scarcely to leave a sufficient road for passage by the sea-shore. The former districts are inhabited by theSalyes, the latter by theLigurians, who border onItaly, of whom we shall speak afterwards. It should here be mentioned, that althoughAntipolis is situated in the Narbonnaise, andNicaea inItaly, this latter is dependent onMarseilles, and forms part of that province; whileAntipolis is ranked amongst theItalian cities, and freed from the government of theMarseillese by a judgment given against them.
§ 4.1.10 Lying off this narrow pass along the coast, as you commence your journey fromMarseilles, are theStoechades islands. Three of these are considerable, and two small. They are cultivated by the people ofMarseilles. Anciently they contained a garrison, placed here to defend them from the attacks ofpirates, for they have good ports. After theStoechades come [the islands of]Planasia andLero, both of them inhabited. InLero, which lies opposite toAntipolis, is a heroon ofLero. There are other small islands not worth mentioning, some of them beforeMarseilles, others before the rest of the coast which I have been describing. As to the harbours, those of the seaport andMarseilles are considerable, the others are but middling. Of this latter class is the portOxybius, so named from theOxybianLigurians. — This concludes what we have to say of this coast.
§ 4.1.11 The country above this is bounded principally by the surrounding mountains and rivers. Of these theRhone is the most remarkable, being both the largest, and capable of being navigated farther than any of the others, and also receiving into it a greater number of tributaries; of these we must speak in order. Commencing atMarseilles, and proceeding to the country between theAlps and theRhone, to the riverDurance, dwell theSalyes for a space of 500 stadia. From thence you proceed in a ferry-boat to the city ofCaballio; beyond this the whole country belongs to theCavari as far as the junction of theIsara with theRhone; it is here too that theCevennes approach theRhone. From theDurance to this point is a distance of 700 stadia. TheSalyes occupy the plains and mountains above these. TheVocontii,Tricorii, Icomi, andMedylli, lie above theCavari. Between theDurance and theIsara there are other rivers which flow from theAlps into theRhone; two of these, after having flowed round the city of theCavari, discharge themselves by a common outlet into theRhone. TheSulgas, which is the third, mixes with theRhone near the city ofVindalum, whereCnaeus Aenobarbus in a decisive engagement routed many myriads of theKelts. Between these are the cities ofAvenio,Arausio, andAeria, which latter, remarksArtemidorus, is rightly named aerial, being situated in a very lofty position. The whole of this country consists of plains abounding in pasturage, excepting on the route fromAeria toAvenio, where there are narrow defiles and woods to traverse. It was at the point where the riverIsara and theRhone unite near theCevennes, thatQuintus Fabius Maximus Aemilianus, with scarcely 30,000 men, cut to pieces 200,000Kelts. Here he erected a white stone as a trophy, and two temples, one toMars, and the other toHercules. From theIsara toVienne, the metropolis of theAllobroges, situated on theRhone, the distance is 320 stadia.Lugdunum is a little aboveVienne at the confluence of theArar and theRhone. The distance by land [from this latter city] toLugdunum, passing through the country of theAllobroges, is about 200 stadia, and rather more by water. Formerly theAllobroges engaged in war, their armies consisting of many myriads; they now occupy themselves in cultivating the plains and valleys of theAlps. They dwell generally in villages, the most notable of them inhabitingVienne, which was merely a village, although called the metropolis of their nation; they have now improved and embellished it as a city; it is situated on theRhone. So full and rapid is the descent of this river from theAlps, that the flow of its waters through LakeLemannus may be distinguished for many stadia. Having descended into the plains of the countries of theAllobroges, andSegusii, it falls into theArar, near toLugdunum, a city of theSegusii. TheArar rises in theAlps, and separates theSequani, theAedui, and theLincasii. It afterwards receives theDubis, a navigable river which rises in the same mountains, still however preserving its own name, and consisting of the two, mingles with theRhone. TheRhone in like manner preserves its name, and flows on toVienne. At their rise these three rivers flow towards the north, then in a westerly direction, afterwards uniting into one they take another turn and flow towards the south, and having received other rivers, they flow in this direction to the sea. Such is the country situated between theAlps and theRhone.
§ 4.1.12 The main part of the country on the other side of theRhone is inhabited by theVolcae, surnamedArecomisci. Their naval station isNarbonne, which may justly be called the emporium of all Gaul, as it far surpasses every other in the multitude of those who resort to it. TheVolcae border on theRhone, theSalyes andCavari being opposite to them on the other side of the river. However, the name of theCavari has so obtained, that all the barbarians inhabiting near now go by that designation; nay, even those who are no longer barbarians, but follow the Roman customs, both in their speech and mode of life, and some of those even who have adopted the Roman polity. Between theArecomisci and thePyrenees there are some other small and insignificant nations.Nemausus is the metropolis of theArecomisci; though far inferior toNarbonne both as to its commerce, and the number of foreigners attracted thither, it surpasses that city in the number of its citizens; for it has under its dominion four and twenty different villages all well inhabited, and by the same people, who pay tribute; it likewise enjoys the rights of theLatin towns, so that inNemausus you meet with Roman citizens who have obtained the honours of the aedile and quaestorship, wherefore this nation is not subject to the orders issued by the praetors fromRome. The city is situated on the road fromIberia toItaly; this road is very good in the summer, but muddy and overflowed by the rivers during winter and spring. Some of these streams are crossed in ferry-boats, and others by means of bridges constructed either of wood or stone. The inundations which destroy the roads are caused by the winter torrents, which sometimes pour down from theAlps even in summer-time after the melting of the snows. To perform the route before mentioned, the shortest way is, as we have said, across the territory of theVocontii direct to theAlps; the other, along the coast ofMarseilles andLiguria, is longer, although it offers an easier passage intoItaly, as the mountains are lower.Nemausus is about 100 stadia distant from theRhone, situated opposite to the small town of Tarascon, and about 720 stadia fromNarbonne. TheTectosages, and certain others whom we shall mention afterwards, border on the range of theCevennes, and inhabit its southern side as far as the promontory of theVolcae. Respecting all the others we will speak hereafter.
§ 4.1.13 But theTectosages dwell near to thePyrenees, bordering for a small space the northern side of theCevennes; the land they inhabit is rich in gold. It appears that formerly they were so powerful and numerous, that dissensions having arisen amongst them, they drove a vast multitude of their number from their homes; and that these men associating with others of different nations took possession ofPhrygia, next toCappadocia, and thePaphlagonians. Of this those who are now called theTectosages afford us proof, for [Phrygia contains] three nations, one of them dwelling near to the city ofAncyra, being called theTectosages; the remaining two, theTrocmi andTolistobogii. The resemblance these nations bear to theTectosages is evidence of their having immigrated fromKeltica, though we are unable to say from which district they came, as there does not appear to be any people at the present time bearing the name ofTrocmi orTolistobogii, who inhabit either beyond theAlps, theAlps themselves, or on this side theAlps. It would seem that continual emigration has drained them completely from their native country, a circumstance which has occurred to many other nations, as some say that theBrennus, who led an expedition toDelphi, was a leader of thePrausi; but we are unable to say where thePrausi formerly inhabited. It is said that theTectosages took part in the expedition toDelphi, and that the treasures found in the city ofTolosa (Tolosse) by the Roman generalCaepio formed a portion of the booty gained there, which was afterwards increased by offerings which the citizens made from their own property, and consecrated in order to conciliate the god. And that it was for daring to touch these thatCaepio terminated so miserably his existence, being driven from his country as a plunderer of temples, and leaving behind him his daughters, who, asTimagenes informs us, having been wickedly violated, perished miserably. However, the account given byPosidonius is the more credible. He tells us that the wealth found inTolosa amounted to somewhere about 15,000 talents, a part of which was hidden in the chapels, and the remainder in the sacred lakes, and that it was not coined [money], but gold and silver in bullion. But at this time the sanctuary ofDelphi was emptied of these treasures, having been pillaged by thePhocians at the period of the Sacred war and supposing any to have been left, it would have been distributed amongst many. Nor is it probable that theTectosages returned home, since they came off miserably after leavingDelphi, and owing to their dissensions were scattered here and there throughout the country; there is much more likelihood in the statement made byPosidonius and many others, that the country abounding in gold, and the inhabitants being superstitious, and not living expensively, they hid their treasures in many different places, the lakes in particular affording them a hiding place for depositing their gold and silver bullion. When the Romans obtained possession of the country they put up these lakes to public sale, and many of the purchasers found therein solid masses of silver. InTolosa there was a sacred sanctuary, held in great reverence by the inhabitants of the surrounding country, and on this account loaded with riches, inasmuch as there were many who offered gifts, and no one dared to touch them.
§ 4.1.14 Tolosa is situated upon the narrowest part of the isthmus which separates the ocean from the sea ofNarbonne; the breadth of the [isthmus], according toPosidonius, being less than 3000 stadia. The perfect similarity maintained throughout this country both in respect to its rivers, and to the exterior and interior sea, appears to us worthy of especial notice, as we have said before. This, on reflection, will prove to be one main cause of the excellence of this country, since the inhabitants are enabled mutually to communicate, and to procure from each other the necessaries of life; this is peculiarly the case at the present time, when on account of their leisure from war they are devoting themselves to agriculture and the pursuits of social life. In this we are persuaded that we behold the work of Providence; such a disposition of these regions not resulting from chance, but from the thought of some [intelligence]. TheRhone, for instance, is navigable to a considerable distance for vessels of heavy burden, which it is capable of transmitting through various districts of the country by means of other rivers which fall into it, and are likewise fitted for the navigation of large vessels. To theRhone succeeds theArar, and into this latter river falls theDoubs; thence the merchandise is carried by land to the riverSeine; whence it is transported to the ocean and the [countries of the]Lexovii andCaleti, the distance thence toBritain being less than a day's journey. The navigation of theRhone being difficult on account of the rapidity of its current, the merchants prefer to transport in waggons certain of their wares, which are destined for theArverni, and the riverLoire, notwithstanding the vicinity of theRhone in some places, but the road being level and the distance not far, (about 800 stadia,) they do not make use of water carriage on account of the facility of the transport by land, from thence the merchandise is easily conveyed by theLoire. This river flows from theCevennes into the ocean. FromNarbonne the voyage to theAtax is short, but the journey by land to the riverGaronne longer, being as much as 700 or 800 stadia. TheGaronne likewise flows into the ocean. Such is what we have to say concerning the inhabitants of the Narbonnaise, who were formerly namedKelts. In my opinion the celebrity of theKelts induced the Grecians to confer that name on the whole of theGalatae; the vicinity of theMassilians may also have had something to do with it.
§ 4.2.2 WE must now speak of theAquitani and the fourteen Galatic nations pertaining to them, situated between theGaronne and theLoire, some of which extend to the riverRhone and the plains of the Narbonnaise. Generally speaking, theAquitani may be said to differ from the Galatic race, both as to form of body and language, resembling more nearly theIberians. They are bounded by theGaronne, and dwell between this river and thePyrenees. There are above twenty nations which bear the name ofAquitani, small and obscure, the major part of them dwelling by the ocean, and the remainder in the interior and by the extremities of theCevennes, as far as theTectosages. This district, however, being too small, they added to it the territory between theGaronne and theLoire. These rivers are nearly parallel with thePyrenees, and form with them two parallelograms, bounded on the remaining sides by the ocean and the mountains of theCevennes. Both of these rivers are navigable for a distance of about 2000 stadia. TheGaronne, after being augmented by three other rivers, discharges itself into the [ocean] between the [country] of theBituriges, surnamed theVivisci, and that of theSantoni; both of them Gallic nations. TheBituriges are the only foreign people who dwell among theAquitani without forming a part of them. Their emporium isBurdegala, situated on a creek formed by the outlets of the river. TheLoire discharges itself between thePictones and theNamnetae. Formerly there was an emporium on this river named Corbilon, mentioned byPolybius when speaking of the fictions ofPytheas. "TheMarseillese, [says he, ] when interrogated byScipio at their meeting, had nothing to tell aboutBritain worth mentioning, nor yet had the people of the Narbonnaise, nor those of Corbilon; notwithstanding these were the two principal cities of the district,Pytheas alone dared to forge so many lies [concerning that island]."Mediolanium is the capital of theSantoni. The part ofAquitaine next the ocean is for the most part sandy and meagre, producing millet, but barren of all other fruits. Here is the gulf which, with that on the coast ofNarbonne, forms the isthmus. Both these gulfs go by the name of the Galatic gulf. The former gulf belongs to theTarbelli. These people possess the richest gold mines; masses of gold as big as the fist can contain, and requiring hardly any purifying, being found in diggings scarcely beneath the surface of the earth, the remainder consisting of dust and lumps, which likewise require but little working. In the interior and mountainous parts [ofAquitaine] the soil is superior; for instance, in the district near thePyrenees belonging to theConvenae, which name signifies people assembled from different countries to dwell in one place. Here is the city ofLugdunum, and the hot springs of theOnesii, which are most excellent for drinking. The country of theAuscii likewise is fine.
§ 4.2.2 The nations between theGaronne and theLoire annexed to theAquitani, are theElui, who commence at theRhone. After these theVellaei, who were formerly comprehended amongst theArverni, but now form a people to themselves. After theseArverni come theLemovices, andPetrocorii, and after them theNitiobriges, theCadurci, and theBituriges, surnamedCubi. Along the ocean we meet with theSantoni, andPictones, the former dwelling by theGaronne, as we have stated, and the latter by theLoire. TheRuteni and theGabales are in the vicinity of Narbonitis. ThePetrocorii andBituriges-Cubi possess excellent ironworks, theCadurci linen-factories, and theRuteni silvermines: theGabales likewise possess silver-mines. On certain amongst theAquitani the Romans have conferred the rights ofLatin cities; such for instance as theAuscii, and theConvenae.
§ 4.2.3 TheArverni are situated along theLoire.Nemossus, their metropolis, is built on the same river. This river having flowed pastCenabum, an emporium of theCarnutes, situated about the middle of its course, discharges itself into the ocean. A great proof of the former power of theArverni, is the fact of the frequent wars which they sustained against the Romans, sometimes with armies of 200,000 men, and sometimes with double that number, which was the amount of their force when they fought against divusCaesar under the command ofVercingetorix. Before this they had brought 200,000 men againstMaximus Aemilianus, and the same number againstDomitius Aenobarbus. Their battles withCaesar took place, one inGergovia, a city of theArverni situated on a lofty mountain, the birth-place ofVercingetorix; the other, near toAlesia, a city of theMandubii, who border on theArverni; this city is likewise situated on a high hill, surrounded by mountains, and between two rivers. Here the war was terminated by the capture of their leader. The battle withMaximus Aemilianus was fought near the confluence of theIsara and theRhone, at the point where the mountains of theCevennes approach the latter river. That withDomitius was fought lower down at the confluence of theSulgas and theRhone. TheArverni extended their dominion as far asNarbonne and the borders ofMarseilles, and exercised authority over the nations as far as thePyrenees, the ocean, and theRhine.Luerius, the father ofBituitus who fought againstMaximus andDomitius, is said to have been so distinguished by his riches and luxury, that to give a proof of his opulence to his friends, he caused himself to be dragged across a plain in a car, whilst he scattered gold and silver coin in every direction for those who followed him to gather up.
§ 4.3.1 NEXT in order afterAquitaine and Narbonitis, is that portion [of Gaul] extending as far as theRhine from the riverLoire, and theRhone, where it passes byLugdunum: in its descent from its source. The upper regions of this district from the sources of theRhine andRhone, nearly to the middle of the plains, pertain toLugdunum; the remainder, with the regions next the ocean, is comprised in another division which belongs to theBelgae. We will describe the two together.
§ 4.3.2 Lugdunum itself, situated on a hill, at the confluence of theArar and theRhone, belongs to the Romans. It is the most populous city afterNarbonne. It carries on a great commerce, and the Roman prefects here coin both gold and silver money. Before this city, at the confluence of the rivers, is situated the sanctuary dedicated by all theGalatae in common toAugustus Caesar. The altar is splendid, and has inscribed on it the names of sixty people, and images of them, one for each, and also another great altar. This is the principal city of the nation of theSegusiani who lie between theRhone and theDoubs. The other nations who extend to theRhine, are bounded in part by theDoubs, and in part by theArar. These two rivers, as said before, descend from theAlps, and, falling into one stream, flow into theRhone. There is likewise another river which has its sources in theAlps, and is named theSeine. It flows parallel with theRhine, through a nation bearing the same name as itself, and so into the ocean. TheSequani are bounded on the east by theRhine, and on the opposite side by theArar. It is from them that the Romans procure the finest salted-pork. Between theDoubs andArar dwells the nation of theAedui, who possess the city ofCabyllinum, situated on theArar and the fortress ofBibracte. TheAedui are said to be related to the Romans, and they were the first to enter into friendship and alliance with them. On the other side of theArar dwell theSequani, who have for long been at enmity with the Romans andAedui, having frequently allied themselves with the Germans in their incursions intoItaly. It was then that they proved their strength, for united to them the Germans were powerful, but when separated, weak. As for theAedui, their alliance with the Romans naturally rendered them the enemies of theSequani, but the enmity was increased by their contests concerning the river which divides them, each nation claiming theArar exclusively for themselves, and likewise the tolls on vessels passing. However, at the present time, the whole of it is under the dominion of the Romans.
§ 4.3.3 The first of all the nations dwelling on theRhine are theHelvetii, amongst whom are the sources of that river in MountAdula, which forms part of theAlps. From this mountain, but in an opposite direction, likewise proceeds theAdda, which flows towardsCisalpine Gaul, and fills lakeLarius, near to which stands [the city of]Como; thence it discharges itself into thePo, of which we shall speak afterwards. TheRhine also flows into vast marshes and a great lake, which borders on theRhaeti andVindelici, who dwell partly in theAlps, and partly beyond theAlps.Asinius says that the length of this river is 6000 stadia, but such is not the case, for taken in a straight line it does not much exceed half that length, and 1000 stadia is quite sufficient to allow for its sinuosities. In fact this river is so rapid that it is difficult to throw bridges across it, although after its descent from the mountains it is borne the remainder of the way through level plains; now how could it maintain its rapidity and vehemence, if in addition to this level channel, we suppose it also to have long and frequent tortuosities?Asinius likewise asserts that this river has two mouths, and blames those who say that it has more. This river and theSeine embrace within their tortuosities a certain extent of country, which however is not considerable. They both flow from south to north.Britain lies opposite to them; but nearest to theRhine, from which you may see Kent, which is the most easterly part of the island. TheSeine is a little further. It was here that divusCaesar established a dock-yard when he sailed toBritain. The navigable portion of theSeine, commencing from the point where they receive the merchandise from theArar, is of greater extent than the [navigable portions] of theLoire andGaronne. FromLugdunum to theSeine is [a distance of] 1000 stadia, and not twice this distance from the outlets of theRhone toLugdunum. They say that theHelvetii, though rich in gold, nevertheless devoted themselves to pillage on beholding the wealth of theCimbri, [accumulated by that means; ] and that two out of their three tribes perished entirely in their military expeditions. However, the multitude of descendants who sprang from this remainder was proved in their war with divusCaesar, in which about 400,000 of their number were destroyed; the 8000 who survived the war, being spared by the conqueror, that their country might not be left desert, a prey to the neighbouring Germans.
§ 4.3.4 After theHelvetii, theSequani andMediomatrici dwell along theRhine, amongst whom are theTribocchi, a German nation who emigrated from their country hither.Iourasios, [Jura] which is in the country of theSequani, separates that people from theHelvetii. To the west, above theHelvetii andSequani, dwell theAedui andLingones; theLeuci and a part of theLingones dwelling above theMediomatrici. The nations between theLoire and theSeine, and beyond theRhone and theArar, are situated to the north near to theAllobroges, and the parts aboutLugdunum. The most celebrated amongst them are theArverni andCarnutes, through both of whose territories theLoire flows before discharging itself into the ocean. The distance from the rivers ofKeltica toBritain is 320 stadia; for departing in the evening with the ebb tide, you will arrive on the morrow at the island about the eighth hour. After theMediomatrici andTribocchi, theTreviri inhabit along theRhine; in their country the Roman generals now engaged in the German war have constructed a bridge. Opposite this place on the other bank of the river dwelt theUbii, whomAgrippa with their own consent brought over to this side theRhine. TheNervii, another German nation, are contiguous to theTreviri; and last theMenapii, who inhabit either bank of the river near to its outlets; they dwell amongst marshes and forests, not lofty, but consisting of dense and thorny wood. Near to these dwell theSicambri, who are likewise Germans. The country next the whole [eastern] bank is inhabited by theSuevi, who are also named Germans, but are superior both in power and number to the others, whom they drove out, and who have now taken refuge on this side theRhine. Other tribes have sway in different places; they are successively a prey to the flames of war, the former inhabitants for the most part being destroyed.
§ 4.3.5 TheSenones, theRemi, theAtrebates, and theEburones dwell west of theTreviri andNervii. Close to theMenapii and near the sea are theMorini, theBellovaci, theAmbiani, theSuessiones, and theCaleti, as far as the outlet of the riverSeine. The countries of theMorini, theAtrebates, and theEburones are similar to that of theMenapii. It consists of a forest filled with low trees; of great extent, but not near so large as writers have described it, viz. 4000 stadia. It is namedArduenna. In the event of warlike incursions the inhabitants would interweave the flexible brambly shrubs, thus stopping up the passages [into their country]. They also fixed stakes in various places, and then retreated with their whole families into the recesses of the forest, to small islands surrounded by marshes. During the rainy season these proved secure hiding-places, but in times of drought they were easily taken. However, at the present time all the nations on this side theRhine dwell in peace under the dominion of the Romans. TheParisii dwell along the riverSeine, and inhabit an island formed by the river; their city isLucotocia. TheMeldi andLexovii border on the ocean. The most considerable, however, of all these nations are theRemi.Duricortora, their metropolis, is well populated, and is the residence of the Roman prefects.
§ 4.4.1 GAUL. THE BELGAE. AFTER the nations mentioned come those of theBelgae, who dwell next the ocean. Of their number are theVeneti, who fought a naval battle withCaesar. They had prepared to resist his passage intoBritain, being possessed of the commerce [of that island] themselves. ButCaesar easily gained the victory, not however by means of his beaks, (for their ships were constructed of solid wood,) but whenever their ships were borne near to his by the wind, the Romans rent the sails by means of scythes fixed on long handles: for the sails [of their ships] are made of leather to resist the violence of the winds, and managed by chains instead of cables. They construct their vessels with broad bottoms and high poops and prows, on account of the tides. They are built of the wood of the oak, of which there is abundance. On this account, instead of fitting the planks close together, they leave interstices between them; these they fill with sea-weed to prevent the wood from drying up in dock for want of moisture; for the sea-weed is damp by nature, but the oak dry and arid. In my opinion theseVeneti were the founders of theVeneti in theAdriatic, for almost all the otherKeltic nations inItaly have passed over from the country beyond theAlps, as for instance, theBoii andSenones. They are said to bePaphlagonians merely on account of a similarity of name. However, I do not maintain my opinion positively; for in these matters probability is quite sufficient. TheOsismii are the people whomPytheas callsOstimii; they dwell on a promontory which projects considerably into the ocean, but not so far asPytheas and those who follow him assert. As for the nations between theSeine and theLoire, some are contiguous to theSequani, others to theArverni.
§ 4.4.2 The entire race which now goes by the name of Gallic, or Galatic, is warlike, passionate, and always ready for fighting, but otherwise simple and not malicious. If irritated, they rush in crowds to the conflict, openly and without any circumspection; and thus are easily vanquished by those who employ stratagem. For any one may exasperate them when, where, and under whatever pretext he pleases; he will always find them ready for danger, with nothing to support them except their violence and daring. Nevertheless they may be easily persuaded to devote themselves to any thing useful, and have thus engaged both in science and letters. Their power consists both in the size of their bodies and also in their numbers. Their frankness and simplicity lead then easily to assemble in masses, each one feeling indignant at what appears injustice to his neighbour. At the present time indeed they are all at peace, being in subjection and living under the command of the Romans, who have subdued them; but we have described their customs as we understand they existed in former times, and as they still exist amongst the Germans. These two nations, both by nature and in their form of government, are similar and related to each other. Their countries border on each other, being separated by the riverRhine, and are for the most part similar.Germania, however, is more to the north, if we compare together the southern and northern parts of the two countries respectively. Thus it is that they can so easily change their abode. They march in crowds in one collected army, or rather remove with all their families, whenever they are ejected by a more powerful force. They were subdued by the Romans much more easily than theIberians; for they began to wage war with these latter first, and ceased last, having in the mean time conquered the whole of the nations situated between theRhine and the mountains of thePyrenees. For these fighting in crowds and vast numbers, were overthrown in crowds, whereas theIberians kept themselves in reserve, and broke up the war into a series of petty engagements, showing themselves in different bands, sometimes here, sometimes there, like banditti. All theGauls are warriors by nature, but they fight better on horseback than on foot, and the flower of the Roman cavalry is drawn from their number. The most valiant of them dwell towards the north and next the ocean.
§ 4.4.3 Of these they say that theBelgae are the bravest. They are divided into fifteen nations, and dwell near the ocean between theRhine and theLoire, and have therefore sustained themselves single-handed against the incursions of the Germans, theCimbri, and theTeutons. The bravest of theBelgae are theBellovaci, and after them theSuessiones. The amount of their population may be estimated by the fact that formerly there were said to be 300,000Belgae capable of bearing arms. The numbers of theHelvetii, theArverni, and their allies, have already been mentioned. All this is a proof both of the amount of the population [of Gaul], and, as before remarked, of the fecundity of their women, and the ease with which they rear their children. TheGauls wear the sagum, let their hair grow, and wear short breeches. Instead of tunics they wear a slashed garment with sleeves descending a little below the hips. The wool [of theirsheep is coarse, but long; from it they weave the thick saga called laines. However, in the northern parts the Romans rear flocks ofsheep which they cover with skins, and which produce very fine wool. The equipment [of theGauls] is in keeping with the size of their bodies; they have a long sword hanging at their right side, a long shield, and lances in proportion, together with a madaris somewhat resembling a javelin; some of them also use bows and slings; they have also a piece of wood resembling a pilum, which they hurl not out of a thong, but from their hand, and to a farther distance than an arrow. They principally make use of it in shooting birds. To the present day most of them lie on the ground, and take their meals seated on straw. They subsist principally on milk and all kinds of flesh, especially that ofswine, which they eat both fresh and salted. Theirswine live in the fields, and surpass in height, strength, and swiftness. To persons unaccustomed to approach them they are almost as dangerous aswolves. The people dwell in great houses arched, constructed of planks and wicker, and covered with a heavy thatched roof. They havesheep andswine in such abundance, that they supply saga and salted pork in plenty, not only toRome but to most parts ofItaly. Their governments were for the most part aristocratic; formerly they chose a governor every year, and a military leader was likewise elected by the multitude. At the present day they are mostly under subjection to the Romans. They have a peculiar custom in their assemblies. If any one makes an uproar or interrupts the person speaking, an attendant advances with a drawn sword, and commands him with menace to be silent; if he persists, the attendant does the same thing a second and third time; and finally, [if he will not obey, ] cuts off from his sagum so large a piece as to render the remainder useless. The labours of the two sexes are distributed in a manner the reverse of what they are with us, but this is a common thing with numerous other barbarians.
§ 4.4.4 Amongst [theGauls] there are generally three divisions of' men especially reverenced, the Bards, theVates, and theDruids. The Bards composed and chanted hymns; theVates occupied themselves with the sacrifices and the study of nature; while theDruids joined to the study of nature that of moral philosophy. The belief in the justice [of theDruids] is so great that the decision both of public and private disputes is referred to them; and they have before now, by their decision, prevented armies from engaging when drawn up in battle-array against each other. All cases of murder are particularly referred to them. When there is plenty of these they imagine there will likewise be a plentiful harvest. Both these and the others assert that the soul is indestructible, and likewise the world, but that sometimes fire and sometimes water have prevailed in making great changes.
§ 4.4.5 To their simplicity and vehemence, theGauls join much folly, arrogance, and love of ornament. They wear golden collars round their necks, and bracelets on their arms and wrists, and those who are of any dignity have garments dyed and worked with gold. This lightness of character makes them intolerable when they conquer, and throws them into consternation when worsted. In addition to their folly, they have a barbarous and absurd custom, common however with many nations of the north, of suspending the heads of their enemies from theirhorses' necks on their return from tattle, and when they have arrived nailing them as a spectacle to their gates.Posidonius says he witnessed this in many different places, and was at first shocked, but became familiar with it in time on account of its frequency. The beads of any illustrious persons they embalm with cedar, exhibit them to strangers, and would not sell them for their weight in gold. However, the Romans put a stop to these customs, as well as to their modes of sacrifice and divination, which were quite opposite to those sanctioned by our laws. They would strike a man devoted as an offering in his back with a sword, and divine from his convulsive throes. Without theDruids they never sacrifice. It is said they have other modes of sacrificing their human victims; that they pierce some of them with arrows, and crucify others in their sanctuaries; and that they prepare a colossus of hay and wood, into which they putcattle, beasts of all kinds, and men, and then set fire to it.
§ 4.4.6 They say that in the ocean, not far from the coast, there is a small island lying opposite to the outlet of the riverLoire, inhabited bySamnite women who areBacchantes, and conciliate and appease that god by mysteries and sacrifices. No man is permitted to land on the island; and when the women desire to have intercourse with the other sex, they cross the sea, and afterwards return again. They have a custom of once a year unroofing the whole of the sanctuary, and roofing it again the same day before sun-set, each one bringing some of the materials. If any one lets her burden fall, she is torn in pieces by the others, and her limbs carried round the sanctuary with wild shouts, which they never cease until their rage is exhausted. [They say] it always happens that some one drops her burden, and is thus sacrificed. But whatArtemidorus tells us concerning thecrows, partakes still more of fiction. He narrates that on the coast, washed by the ocean, there is a harbour named the Port of TwoCrows, and that here twocrows may be seen with their right wings white. Those who have any dispute come here, and each one having placed a plank for himself on a lofty eminence, sprinkles crumbs thereupon; the birds fly to these, eat up the one and scatter the other, and he whose crumbs are scattered gains the cause. This narration has decidedly too much the air of fiction. What he narrates concerningCeres andProserpine is more credible. He says that there is an island nearBritain in which they perform sacrifices to these goddesses after the same fashion that they do inSamothrace. The following is also credible, that a tree grows inKeltica similar to a fig, which produces a fruit resembling aCorinthian capital, and which, being cut, exudes a poisonous juice which they use for poisoning their arrows. It is well known that all theKelts are fond of disputes; and that amongst them pederasty is not considered shameful.Ephorus extends the size ofKeltica too far, including within it most of what we now designate asIberia, as far asGades, He states that the people are great admirers of the Greeks, and relates many particulars concerning them not applicable to their present state. This is one: — That they take great care not to become fat or big-bellied, and that if any young man exceeds the measure of a certain girdle, he is punished. Such is our account ofKeltica beyond theAlps.
§ 4.5.1 BRITAIN. BRITAIN is triangular in form; its longest side lies parallel toKeltica, in length neither exceeding nor falling short of it; for each of then extends as much as 4300 or 4400 stadia: the side ofKeltica extending from the mouths of theRhine to the northern extremities of thePyrenees towardsAquitaine; and that ofBritain, which commences at Kent, its most eastern point, opposite the mouths of theRhine, extending to the western extremity of the island, which lies over againstAquitaine and thePyrenees. This is the shortest line from thePyrenees to theRhine; the longest is said to be 5000 stadia; but it is likely that there is some convergency of the river towards the mountain from a strictly parallel position, there being an inclination of either toward the other at the extremities next the ocean.
§ 4.5.2 There are four passages commonly used from the continent to the island, namely, from the mouths of the riversRhine,Seine,Loire, andGaronne; but to such as set sail from the parts about theRhine, the passage is not exactly from its mouths, but from theMorini, who border on theMenapii, among whom also is situated Itium, which divusCaesar used as his naval station when about to pass over to the island: he set sail by night, and arrived the next day about the fourth hour, having completed a passage of 320 stadia, and he found the corn in the fields. The greatest portion of the island is level and woody, although many tracts are hilly. It produces corn,cattle, gold, silver, and iron, which things are brought thence, and also skins, and slaves, anddogs sagacious in hunting; theKelts use these, as well as their nativedogs, for the purposes of war. The men are taller than theKelts, with hair less yellow; they are slighter in their persons. As an instance of their height, we ourselves saw atRome some youths who were taller than the tallest there by as much as half a foot, but their legs were bowed, and in other respects they were not symmetrical in conformation. Their manners are in part like those of theKelts, though in part more simple and barbarous; insomuch that some of them, though possessing plenty of milk, have not skill enough to make cheese, and are totally unacquainted with horticulture and other matters of husbandry. There are several states amongst them. In their wars they make use of chariots for the most part, as do some of theKelts. Forests are their cities; for having enclosed an ample space with felled trees, they make themselves huts therein, and lodge theircattle, though not for any long continuance. Their atmosphere is more subject to rain than to snow; even in their clear days the mist continues for a considerable time, insomuch that throughout the whole day the sun is only visible for three or four hours about noon; and this must be the case also amongst theMorini, and theMenapii, and among all the neighbouring people.
§ 4.5.3 DivusCaesar twice passed over to the island, but quickly returned, having effected nothing of consequence, nor proceeded far into the country, as well on account of some commotions inKeltica, both among his own soldiers and among the barbarians, as because of the loss of many of his ships at the time of the full moon, when both the ebb and flow of the tides were greatly increased. Nevertheless he gained two or three victories over theBritons, although he had transported thither only two legions of his army, and brought away hostages and slaves and much other booty. At the present time, however, some of the princes there have, by their embassies and solicitations, obtained the friendship ofAugustus Caesar, dedicated their offerings in theCapitol, and brought the whole island into intimate union with the Romans. They pay but moderate duties both on the imports and exports fromKeltica; which are ivory bracelets and necklaces, amber, vessels of glass, and small wares; so that the island scarcely needs a garrison, for at the least it would require one legion and some cavalry to enforce tribute from them; and the total expenditure for the army would be equal to the revenue collected; for if a tribute were levied, of necessity the imposts must be diminished, and at the same time some danger would be incurred if force were to be employed.
§ 4.5.4 There are also other small islands aroundBritain; but one, of great extent,Ierna, lying parallel to it towards the north, long, or rather, wide; concerning which we have nothing certain to relate, further than that its inhabitants are more savage than theBritons, feeding on human flesh, and enormous eaters, and deeming it commendable to devour their deceased fathers, as well as openly to have commerce not only with other women, but also with their own mothers and sisters. But this we relate perhaps without very competent authority; although to eat human flesh is said to be aScythian custom; and during the severities of a siege, even theKelts, theIberians, and many others, are reported to have done the like.
§ 4.5.5 The account ofThule is still more uncertain, on account of its secluded situation; for they consider it to be the northernmost of all lands of which the names are known. The falsity of whatPytheas has related concerning this and neighbouring places, is proved by what he has asserted of wellknown countries. For if, as we have shown, his description of these is in the main incorrect, what he says of far distant countries is still more likely to be false. Nevertheless, as far as astronomy and the mathematics are concerned, he appears to have reasoned correctly, that people bordering on the frozen zone would be destitute of cultivated fruits, and almost deprived of the domestic animals; that their food would consist of millet, herbs, fruits, and roots; and that where there was corn and honey they would make drink of these. That having no bright sun, they would thresh their corn, and store it in vast granaries, threshing-floors being useless on account of the rain and want of sun.
§ 4.6.1 THE ALPS. HAVING describedKeltica beyond theAlps, and the nations who inhabit the country, we must now speak of theAlps themselves and their inhabitants, and afterwards of the whole ofItaly; observing in our description such arrangement as the nature of the country shall point out. TheAlps do not commence atMonoeci Portus, as some have asserted, but from the region whence theApennines take their rise aboutGenoa, a mercantile city of theLigurians, and at the marshes namedSabbatorum Vada; for theApennines take their rise nearGenoa, and theAlps nearSabbatorum Vada. The distance betweenGenoa and theSabbatorum Vada is about 260 stadia. About 370 stadia farther on is the little city ofAlbingaunum, inhabited byLigurians who are calledIngauni. From thence to theMonoeci Portus is 480 stadia. In the interval between is the very considerable city ofAlbium Intemelium, inhabited by theIntemelii. These names are sufficient to prove that theAlps commence at theSabbatorum Vada. For theAlps were formerly called Albia and Alpionia, and at the present day the high mountain in the country of theIapodes, next toOcra and theAlps, is namedAlbius, showing that theAlps extend so far.
§ 4.6.2 Now since theLigurians were divided intoIngauni andIntemelii, it was natural that their maritime colonies should be distinguished, one by the name ofAlbium Intemelium,Alpine as it were, and the other by the more concise formAlbingaunum. To these two tribes ofLigurians already mentioned,Polybius adds those of theOxybii andDeciates. The whole coast fromMonoeci Portus toTyrrhenia is continuous, and without harbours excepting some small roads and anchorages. Above it rise the rugged precipices of theAlpine range, leaving but a narrow passage along the sea. This district, but particularly the mountains, is inhabited byLigurians, principally subsisting on the produce of their herds, and milk, and a drink made of barley. There is plenty of wood here for the construction of ships; the trees grow to a vast size, some of them having been found eight feet in diameter. Much of the wood is veined, and not inferior to cedar-wood for cabinet work. This wood, together with the produce of theircattle, hides, and honey, they transport to the mart ofGenoa, receiving in exchange for them the oil and wine ofItaly; for the little [wine] which their country produces is harsh and tastes of pitch. Here are bred thehorses and mules known as ginni, and here too are wrought theLigurian tunics and saga. In their country likewise there is plenty of lingurium, called by some electrum. They use but few cavalry in war; their infantry are good, and excellent slingers. Some have thought that their brazen shields prove these people to be of Grecian origin.
§ 4.6.3 Monoeci Port is an anchorage unsuitable for many or large vessels. Here is a sanctuary dedicated toHerculesMonoecus. The name seems to show it probable that theMassilian voyages along the coast extended as far as here.Monoeci Port is distant fromAntipolis rather more than 200 stadia. TheSalyes occupy the region from thence toMarseilles, or a little farther; they inhabit theAlps which lie above that city, and a portion of the sea-coast, where they intermingle with the Greeks. The ancient Greeks gave to theSalyes the name ofLigyes, and to the country which was in the possession of theMarseillese, that of Ligystica. The later Greeks named them Kelto-Ligyes, and assigned to them the whole of the plains extending as far as Luerion and theRhone. They are divided into ten cantons, and are capable of raising troops not only of infantry, but of cavalry also. These people were the first of the TransalpineKelts whom the Romans subdued after maintaining a lengthened war against them and theLigurians. They closed [against the Romans] all the roads intoIberia along the sea-coast, and carried on a system of pillage both by sea and land. Their strength so increased that large armies were scarcely able to force a passage. And after a war of eighty years, the Romans were hardly able to obtain a breadth of twelve stadia for the purpose of making a public road. After this, however, the Romans subdued the whole of them, and established among them a regular form of government, and imposed a tribute.
§ 4.6.4 After theSalyes, theAlbienses, theAlbioeci, and theVocontii inhabit the northern portion of the mountains. TheVocontii extend as far as theAllobriges, and occupy vast valleys in the depths of the mountains, not inferior to those inhabited by theAllobriges. Both theAllobriges andLigurians are subject to the pretors sent into the Narbonnaise, but theVocontii are governed by their own laws, as we have said of theVolcae ofNemausus. Of theLigurians between theVar andGenoa, those along the sea are consideredItalians; while the mountaineers are governed by a prefect of the equestrian order, as is the case in regard to other nations wholly barbarous.
§ 4.6.5 After theVocontii, are theIconii, theTricorii, and theMedulli; who inhabit the loftiest ridges of the mountains, for they say that some of them have an almost perpendicular ascent of 100 stadia, and a similar descent to the frontiers ofItaly. In these high-lands there is a great lake; there are also two springs not far distant from each other; one of these gives rise to theDurance, which flows like a torrent into theRhone, and to the Durias, which flows in an opposite direction; for it mingles with thePo after having pursued its course through the country of theSalassi intoCisalpine Gaul. From the other source, but much lower down, rises thePadus itself, large and rapid, which as it advances becomes still vaster, and at the same time more gentle. As it reaches the plains it increases in breadth, being augmented by numerous [other rivers], and thus it becomes less impetuous in its course, and its current is weakened. Having become the largest river in Europe, with the exception of theDanube, it discharges itself into theAdriatic Sea. TheMedulli are situated considerably above the confluence of theIsara and theRhone.
§ 4.6.6 On the opposite side of the mountains, sloping towardsItaly, dwell theTaurini, aLigurian nation, together with certain otherLigurians. What is called the land of Ideonnus andCottius belongs to theseLigurians. Beyond them and thePadus are theSalassi; above whom in the summits [of theAlps] are theKentrones, theCatoriges, theVeragri, theNantuatae, LakeLemmanus, traversed by theRhone, and the sources of that river. Not far from these are the sources of theRhine, andMount Adulas, from whence theRhine flows towards the north; likewise theAdda, which flows in an opposite direction, and discharges itself into LakeLarius, near toComo. Lying aboveComo, which is situated at the roots of theAlps, on one side are theRhaeti andVennones towards the east, and on the other theLepontii, theTridentini, theStoni, and numerous other small nations, poor and addicted to robbery, who in former times possessedItaly. At the present time some of them have been destroyed, and the others at length civilized, so that the passes over the mountains through their territories, which were formerly few and difficult, now run in every direction, secure from any danger of these people, and as accessible as art can make them. ForAugustus Caesar not only destroyed the robbers, but improved the character of the roads as far as practicable, although he could not every where overcome nature, on account of the rocks and immense precipices; some of which tower above the road, while others yawn beneath; so that departing ever so little [from the path], the traveller is in inevitable danger of falling down bottomless chasms. In some places the road is so narrow as to make both the foot traveller and his beasts of burden, who are unaccustomed to it, dizzy; but the animals of the district will carry their burdens quite securely. These things however are beyond remedy, as well as the violent descent of vast masses of congealed snow from above, capable of overwhelming a whole company at a time, and sweeping them into the chasms beneath. Numerous masses lie one upon the other, one hill of congealed snow being formed upon another, so that the uppermost mass is easily detached at any time from that below it, before being perfectly melted by the sun.
§ 4.6.7 A great part of the country of theSalassi lies in a deep valley, formed by a chain of mountains which encloses the district on either side; a part of them however inhabit the overhanging ridges. The route of those who are desirous of passing fromItaly over these mountains, lies through the aforesaid valley. Beyond this the road separates into two. The one which passes through the mountain peaks, known as thePennine Alps, cannot be traversed by carriages; the other, which runs through the country of theCeutrones, lies more to the west. The country of theSalassi contains gold mines, of which formerly, in the days of their power, they were masters, as well as of the passes. The river Doria Baltea afforded them great facility in obtaining the metal by [supplying them with water] for washing the gold, and they have emptied the main bed by the numerous trenches cut for drawing the water to different places. This operation, though advantageous in gold hunting, was injurious to the agriculturists below, as it deprived them of the irrigation of a river, which, by the height of its position, was capable of watering their plains. This gave rise to frequent wars between the two nations; when the Romans gained the dominion, theSalassi lost both their gold works and their country, but as they still possessed the mountains, they continued to sell water to the public contractors of the gold mines; with whom there were continual disputes on account of the avarice of the contractors, and thus the Roman generals sent into the country were ever able to find a pretext for commencing war. And, until very recently, theSalassi at one time waging war against the Romans, and at another making peace, took occasion to inflict numerous damages upon those who crossed over their mountains, by their system of plundering; and even exacted fromDecimus Brutus, on his flight fromMutina, a drachm per man.Messala, likewise, having taken up his winter quarters in their vicinity, was obliged to pay them, both for his fire-wood, and for the elm-wood for making javelins for the exercise of his troops. In one instance they plundered the treasures ofCaesar, and rolled down huge masses of rock upon the soldiers under pretence of making roads, or building bridges over the rivers. AfterwardsAugustus completely overthrew them, and carried them toEporedia, a Roman colony which had been planted as a bulwark against theSalassi, although the inhabitants were able to do but little against them until the nation was destroyed; their numbers amounted to 36,000 persons, besides 8000 men capable of bearing arms.TerentiusVarro, the general who defeated them, sold them all by public auction, as enemies taken in war. Three thousand Romans sent out byAugustus founded the city ofAugusta, on the spot whereVarro had encamped, and now the whole surrounding country, even to the summits of the mountains, is at peace.
§ 4.6.8 Beyond, both the eastern parts of the mountains, and those likewise inclining to the south, are possessed by theRhaeti andVindelici, who adjoin theHelvetii andBoii, and press upon their plains. TheRhaeti extend as far asItaly aboveVerona andComo. TheRhaetian wine, which is esteemed not inferior to the finest wines ofItaly, is produced [from vines which grow] at the foot of the mountains. These people extend also as far as the districts through which theRhine flows. TheLepontii andCamuni are of their nation. TheVindelici andNorici possess, for the most part, the opposite side of the mountains together with theBreuni andGenauni, who form part of theIllyrians. All these people were continually making incursions both into the neighbouring parts ofItaly, and into [the countries] of theHelvetii, theSequani, theBoii, and the Germans. But theLicattii, theClautinatii, and theVennones proved the boldest amongst theVindelici; and theRucantii and Cotuantii amongst theRhaeti. Both theEstiones andBrigantii belong to theVindelici; their cities areBrigantium,Cambodunum, andDamasia, which may be looked upon as the acropolis of theLicattii. It is narrated, as an instance of the extreme brutality of these robbers towards the people ofItaly, that when they have taken any village or city, they not only put to death all the men capable of bearing arms, but likewise all the male children, and do not even stop here, but murder every pregnant woman who, their diviners say, will bring forth a male infant.
§ 4.6.9 After these come certain of theNorici, and theCarni, who inhabit the country about theAdriatic Gulf andAquileia. TheTaurisci belong to theNorici.Tiberius and his brotherDrusus in one summer put a stop to their lawless incursions, so that now for three and thirty years they have lived quietly and paid their tribute regularly. Throughout the whole region of theAlps there are hilly districts capable of excellent cultivation, and well situated valleys; but the greater part, especially the summits of the mountains inhabited by the robbers, are barren and unfruitful, both on account of the frost and the ruggedness of the land. On account of the want of food and other necessaries the mountaineers have sometimes been obliged to spare the inhabitants of the plains, that they might have some people to supply them; for these they have given them in exchange, resin, pitch, torches, wax, cheese, and honey, of which they have plenty. In the MountApennine which lies above theCarni there is a lake which runs out into theAtesinus, which river, after receiving another river, theAtagis, discharges itself into theAdriatic. From this lake there is also another river, theIsaras, which flows into theDanube. TheDanube itself rises in the mountains which are split into many branches and numerous summits. For fromLiguria to here the summits of theAlps stretch along continuously, presenting the appearance of one mountain; but after this they rise and fall in turns, forming numerous ridges and peaks. The first of these is beyond theRhine and the lake inclining towards the east, its ridge moderately elevated; here are the sources of theDanube near to theSuevi and the forest ofHercynia. The other branches extend towardsIllyria and theAdriatic, such are the MountApennine, already mentioned, Tullum and Phligadia, the mountains lying above theVindelici from whence proceed the Duras, theClanis, and many other rivers which discharge themselves like torrents into the current of theDanube.
§ 4.6.10 Near to these regions dwell theIapodes, (a nation now mixed with theIllyrians, andKelts,) close to them is [the Mount]Ocra. Formerly theIapodes were numerous, inhabiting either side of the mountain, and were notorious for their predatory habits, but they have been entirely reduced and brought to subjection byAugustus Caesar. Their cities areMetulum,Arupenum, Monetium, andVendon. After these is the city of Segesta, [situated] in a plain. Near to it flows the river Save, which discharges itself into theDanube. This city lies in an advantageous position for carrying on war against theDacians.Ocra forms the lowest portion of theAlps, where they approach the territory of theCarni, and through which they convey the merchandise ofAquileia in waggons to Pamportus. This route is not more than 400 stadia. From thence they convey it by the rivers as far as theDanube and surrounding districts, for a navigable river which flows out ofIllyria, passes by Pamportus, and discharges itself into the Save, so that the merchandise may easily be carried down both to Segesta, and to thePannonians, andTaurisci. It is near this city, that the Kulp falls into the Save. Both of these rivers are navigable, and flow down from theAlps. TheAlps contain wildhorses andcattle, andPolybius asserts that an animal of a singular form is found there; it resembles a stag except in the neck and hair, which are similar to those of a wildboar; under its chin it has a tuft of hair about a span long, and the thickness of the tail of a younghorse.
§ 4.6.11 One of the passages over the mountains fromItaly into Transalpine and northernKeltica is that which passes through the country of theSalassi, and leads toLugdunum. This [route] is divided into two ways, one practicable for carriages, but longer, which crosses the country of theCeutrones, the other steep and narrow, but shorter; this crosses thePennine [Alps].Lugdunum is situated in the midst of the country, serving as an acropolis, both on account of the confluence of the rivers, and of its being equally near to all parts. It was on this account thatAgrippa cut all the roads from this [as a centre] one running through the mountains of theCevennes to theSantones andAquitaine, another towards theRhine; a third towards the ocean by the country of theBellovaci andAmbiani, and a fourth towards the Narbonnaise and the coast ofMarseilles. The traveller, also, leavingLugdunum and the country above on his left, may pass over thePennine Alps themselves, theRhone, or LakeLemannus, into the plains of theHelvetii, whence there is a passage through MountJura into the country of theSequani, andLingones; here the road separates into two routes, one running to theRhine, and the other to the ocean.
§ 4.6.12 Polybius tells us that in his time the gold mines were so rich aboutAquileia, but particularly in the countries of theTaurisciNorici, that if you dug but two feet below the surface you found gold, and that the diggings [generally] were not deeper than fifteen feet. In some instances the gold was found pure in lumps about the size of a bean or lupin, and which diminished in the fire only about one eighth; and in others, though requiring more fusion, was still very profitable. CertainItalians aiding the barbarians in working [the mines], in the space of two months the value of gold was diminished throughout the whole ofItaly by one third. TheTaurisci on discovering this drove out their fellow-labourers, and only sold the gold themselves. Now, however, the Romans possess all the gold mines. Here, too, as well as inIberia, the rivers yield gold-dust as well as the diggings, though not in such large quantities. The same writer, speaking of the extent and height of theAlps, compares with them the largest mountains of Greece, such asTaygetum,Lycaion,Parnassus,Olympus,Pelion,Ossa, and ofThrace, as theHaemus,Rhodope, and Dunax, saying that an active person might almost ascend any of these in a single day, and go round them in the same time, whereas five days would not be sufficient to ascend theAlps, while their length along the plains extends 2200 stadia. He only names four passes over the mountains, one throughLiguria close to theTyrrhenian sea, a second through the country of theTaurini, by whichHannibal passed, a third through the country of theSalassi, and a fourth through that of theRhaeti, all of them precipitous. In these mountains, he says, there are numerous lakes; three large ones, the first of which isBenacus, 500 stadia in length and 130 in breadth, the riverMincius flows from it. The second is theVerbanus, 400 stadia [in length], and in breadth smaller than the preceding; the great riverTicinus flows from this [lake]. The third is theLarius, its length is nearly 300 stadia, and its breadth 30, the riverAdda flows from it. All these rivers flow into thePo. This is what we have to say concerning theAlpine mountains.
§ 4.7.1 AT the foot of theAlps commences the region now known asItaly. The ancients byItaly merely understoodOenotria, which reached from theStrait of Sicily to the Gulf ofTaranto, and the region aboutPosidonium, but the name has extended even to the foot of theAlps; comprehending on one side that portion ofLiguria situated by the sea, from the confines ofTyrrhenia to theVar; and on the other, that portion ofIstria which extends as far asPola. It seems probable that the first inhabitants were namedItalians, and, being successful, they communicated their name to the neighbouring tribes, and this propagation [of name] continued until the Romans obtained dominion. Afterwards, when the Romans conferred on theItalians the privileges of equal citizenship, and thought fit to extend the same honour to theCisalpine Galatae andHeneti, they comprised the whole under the general denomination ofItalians and Romans; they likewise founded amongst them numerous colonies, some earlier, some later, of which it would be difficult to say which are the most considerable.
§ 5.1.2 It is not easy to describe the whole ofItaly under any one geometrical figure; although some say that it is a promontory of triangular form, extending towards the south and winter rising, with its apex towards theStrait of Sicily, and its base formed by theAlps. . . . . . [No one can allow this definition either for the base or one of the sides, ] although it is correct for the other side which terminates at theStrait, and is washed by theTyrrhenian sea. But a triangle, properly so called, is a rectilinear figure, whereas in this instance both the base and the sides are curved. So that, if I agree, I must add that the base and the sides are of a curved figure, and it must be conceded to me that the eastern side deviates, as well; otherwise they have not been sufficiently exact in describing as one side that which extends from the head of theAdriatic to theStrait [of Sicily]. For we designate as a side a line without any angle; now a line without any angle is one which does not incline to either side, or but very little; whereas the line fromAriminum to theIapygian promontory, and that from theStrait to the same promontory, incline very considerably. The same I consider to be the case with regard to the lines drawn from the head of theAdriatic andIapygia, for meeting about the neighbourhood ofAriminum andRavenna, they form an angle, or if not an angle, at least a strongly defined curve. Consequently, if the coast from the head [of theAdriatic] toIapygia be considered as one side, it cannot be described as a right line; neither can the remainder of the line from hence to theStrait [ofSicily ], though it may be considered another side, be said to form a right line. Thus the figure [ofItaly] may be said to be rather quadrilateral than trilateral, and can never without impropriety be called a triangle. It is better to confess that you cannot define exactly ungeometrical figures.
§ 5.1.3 [Italy], however, may be described in the following manner. The roots of theAlps are curved, and in the form of a gulf, the head turned towardsItaly; the middle of the gulf in the country of theSalassi, and its extremities turned, the one towardsOcra and the head of theAdriatic, the other towards the coast ofLiguria as far asGenoa, a mercantile city of theLigurians, where theApennines fall in with theAlps. Immediately under [theAlps] there is a considerable plain, of about an equal extent of 2100 stadia both in breadth and length; its southern side is closed by the coast of theHeneti and theApennines, which extend toAriminum andAncona; for these mountains, commencing atLiguria, enterTyrrhenia, leaving but a narrow sea-coast; they afterwards retire by degrees into the interior, and having reached the territory ofPisa, turn towards the east in the direction of theAdriatic as far as the country aboutAriminum andAncona, where they approach the sea-coast of theHeneti at right angles.Cisalpine Gaul is enclosed within these limits, and the length of the coast joined to that of the mountains is 6300 stadia; its breadth rather less than 2000. The remainder ofItaly is long and narrow, and terminates in two promontories, one extending to theStrait of Sicily, the other toIapygia. It is embraced on one side by theAdriatic, on the other by theTyrrhenian sea. The form and size of theAdriatic resembles that portion ofItaly bounded by theApennines and the two seas, and extending as far asIapygia and the isthmus which separates the Gulf ofTaranto from that ofPosidonium. The greatest breadth of both is about 1300 stadia, and the length not much less than 6000. The remainder of the country is possessed by theBruttii, and certain of theLeucani.Polybius tells us, that traversing the sea-coast on foot fromIapygia to theStrait [ofSicily ] there are 3000 stadia, the coast being washed by the Sea ofSicily; but that going by water it is 500 stadia less. TheApennines, after approaching the country aboutAriminum andAncona, and determining the breadth ofItaly at this point from sea to sea, change their direction and divide the whole country throughout its length. As far as thePeucetii andLeucani they do not recede much from theAdriatic, but on arriving at theLeucani they decline considerably towards the other sea, and traversing the remainder of the distance through theLeucani andBruttii, terminate atLeucopetra, inReggio. Such is a general description of the whole of presentItaly. We will now endeavour to undertake a description of its various parts. And, first, of those situated below theAlps.
§ 5.1.4 This is a superb plain variegated with fruitful hills. ThePo divides it almost through its midst, one side being denominated Cispadana, and the other Transpadana. Cispadana comprehends that part next theApennines andLiguria, and Transpadana the remainder. The former [division] is inhabited byLigurian andKeltic nations, the former inhabiting the mountains and the latter the plains; and the latter [division] byKelts andHeneti. TheseKelts are of the same race as the TransalpineKelts. Concerning theHeneti there are two traditions, some saying that they are a colony of thoseKelts of the same name who dwell by the ocean. Others say that they are descended from theVeneti ofPaphlagonia, who took refuge here withAntenor after theTrojan War; and they give as a proof of this the attention these people bestow on rearinghorses; which, though now entirely abandoned, was formerly in great esteem among them, resulting from the ancient rage for breeding mules, whichHomer thus mentions: "From theEneti for forest mules renowned." Iliad ii. 857. It was here thatDionysius, the tyrant ofSicily, kept his stud ofrace-horses. And, in consequence, the Henetianhorses were much esteemed in Greece, and their breed in great repute for a long period.
§ 5.1.5 The whole of this country is full of rivers and marshes, especially the district of theHeneti, which likewise experiences the tides of the sea. This is almost the only part of our sea which is influenced in the same manner as the ocean, and, like it, has ebb and flood tides. In consequence most of the plain is covered with lagoons. The inhabitants have dug canals and dikes, after the manner of LowerEgypt, so that part of the country is drained and cultivated, and the rest is navigable. Some of their cities stand in the midst of water like islands, others are only partially surrounded. Such as lie above the marshes in the interior are situated on rivers navigable for a surprising distance, thePo in particular, which is both a large river, and also continually swelled by the rains and snows. As it expands into numerous outlets, its mouth is not easily perceptible and is difficult to enter. But experience surmounts even the greatest difficulties.
§ 5.1.6 Formerly, as we have said, the district next this river was chiefly inhabited byKelts. The principal nations of theseKelts were theBoii, theInsubri, and theSenones and Gaesatae, who in one of their incursions took possession ofRome. The Romans afterwards entirely extirpated these latter, and expelled theBoii from their country, who then migrated to the land about theDanube, where they dwelt with theTaurisci, and warred against theDacians until the whole nation was destroyed; and they left to the surrounding tribes thissheep-pasturing district ofIllyria. TheInsubri still exist; their metropolis isMediolanum, which formerly was a village, (for they all dwelt in villages) but is now a considerable city, beyond thePo, and almost touching theAlps. Near to it isVerona, a large city, and the smaller townsBrixia,Mantua,Reggio, andComo. This latter was but a very indifferent colony, having been seriously impaired by theRhaeti who dwelt higher up, but it was repeopled byPompeius Strabo, father ofPompey the Great. AfterwardsCaius Scipio transferred thither 3000 men, and finally divusCaesar peopled it with 5000 men, the most distinguished of whom were 500 Greeks. He conferred on these the privileges of citizens, and enrolled them amongst the inhabitants. They not only took up their abode here, but left their name to the colony itself; for all the inhabitants taking the name of νεοκωμῖται, this was translated [intoLatin], and the place called Novum-Comum. Near to this place is LakeLarius, which is filled by the riverAdda, and afterwards flows out into thePo. The sources of this river, as well as those of theRhine, rise inMount Adulas.
§ 5.1.7 These cities are situated high above the marshes; near to them isPatavium, the finest of all the cities in this district, and which at the time of the late census was said to contain 500 equites. Anciently it could muster an army of 120,000 men. The population and skill of this city is evinced by the vast amount of manufactured goods it sends to the Roman market, especially clothing of all kinds. It communicates with the sea by a river navigable from a large harbour [at its mouth], the river runs across the marshes for a distance of 250 stadia. This harbour, as well as the river, is named Medoacus. Situated in the marshes is the great [city of]Ravenna, built entirely on piles, and traversed by canals, which you cross by bridges or ferry-boats. At the full tides it is washed by a considerable quantity of sea-water, as well as by the river, and thus the sewage is carried off, and the air purified; in fact, the district is considered so salubrious that the [Roman] governors have selected it as a spot to bring up and exercise the gladiators in. It is a remarkable peculiarity of this place, that, though situated in the midst of a marsh, the air is perfectly innocuous; the same is the case with respect toAlexandria inEgypt, where the malignity of the lake during summer is entirely removed by the rising of the river which covers over the mud. Another remarkable peculiarity is that of its vines, which, though growing in the marshes, make very quickly and yield a large amount of fruit, but perish in four or five years.Altinum stands likewise in the marshes, its situation being very similar to that ofRavenna. Between them isButrium, a small city ofRavenna, andSpina, which is now a village, but was anciently a celebrated Grecian city. In fact, the treasures of theSpinitae are shown atDelphi, and it is, besides, reported in history that they had dominion over the sea. They say that it formerly stood on the sea; now, however, the district is inland about 90 stadia from the sea.Ravenna is reported to have been founded byThessalians, who not being able to sustain the violence of theTyrrheni, welcomed into their city some of theOmbrici, who still possess it, while they themselves returned home. These cities for the most part are surrounded, and, as it were, washed by the marshes.
§ 5.1.8 Opitergium,Concordia,Atria,Vicetia, as well as some smaller cities, are less annoyed by the marshes: they communicate by small navigable canals with the sea. They say thatAtria was formerly a famous city, from which theAdriatic Gulf, with a slight variation, received its name.Aquileia, which is the nearest to the head [of the gulf], was founded by the Romans, to keep in check the barbarians dwelling higher up. You may navigate transport ships to it up the river Natisone for more than sixty stadia. This is the trading city with the nations ofIllyrians who dwell round theDanube. Some deal in marine merchandise, and carry in waggons wine in wooden casks and oil, and others exchange slaves,cattle, and hides.Aquileia is without the limits of theHeneti, their country being bounded by a river which flows from the mountains of theAlps, and is navigable for a distance of 1200 stadia, as far as the city ofNoreia, near to whereCnaeus Carbo was defeated in his attack upon theKimbrians. This place contains fine stations for gold washing and iron-works. At the very head of theAdriatic is the Timavum, a sanctuary consecrated toDiomedes, worthy of notice. For it contains a harbour and a fine grove, with seven springs of fresh water, which fall into the sea in a broad, deep river [Timavus].Polybius, however, says that, with the exception of one, they are all salt springs, and that it is on this account the place is called by the inhabitants — the source and mother of the sea.Posidonius, on the other hand, tells us that the riverTimavus, after flowing from the mountains, precipitates itself into a chasm, and after flowing under ground about 130 stadia, discharges itself into the sea.
§ 5.1.9 ThatDiomedes did hold sovereignty over the country around this sea, is proved both by theDiomedean islands, and the traditions concerning theDaunii andArgos-Hippium. Of these we shall narrate as much as may be serviceable to history, and shall leave alone the numerous falsehoods and myths; such, for instance, as those concerningPhaethon and theHeliades changed into alders near the [river]Eridanus, which exists nowhere, although said to be near thePo; of the islandsElectrides, opposite the mouths of thePo, and theMeleagrides, found in them; none of which things exist in these localities. However, some have narrated that honours are paid toDiomedes amongst theHeneti, and that they sacrifice to him a whitehorse; two groves are likewise pointed out, one [sacred] to theArgianJuno, and the other to theAetolianDiana. They have too, as we might expect, fictions concerning these groves; for instance, that the wild beasts in them grow tame, that the deer herd withwolves, and they suffer men to approach and stroke them; and that when pursued bydogs, as soon as they have reached these groves, thedogs no longer pursue them. They say, too, that a certain person, well known for the facility with which he offered himself as a pledge for others, being bantered on this subject by some hunters who came up with him having awolf in leash, they said in jest, that if he would become pledge for thewolf and pay for the damage he might do, they would loose the bonds. To this the man consented, and they let loose thewolf, who gave chase to a herd ofhorses unbranded, and drove them into the stable of the person who had become pledge for him. The man accepted the gift, branded thehorses with [the representation of] awolf, and named them Lucophori. They were distinguished rather for their swiftness than gracefulness. His heirs kept the same brand and the same name for this race ofhorses, and made it a rule never to part with a single mare, in order that they might remain sole possessors of the race, which became famous. At the present day, however, as we have before remarked, this [rage for] horse-breeding has entirely ceased. After theTimavus comes the sea-coast ofIstria as far asPola, which appertains toItaly. Between [the two] is the fortress ofTergeste, distant fromAquileia 180 stadia.Pola is situated in a gulf forming a kind of port, and containing some small islands, fruitful, and with good harbours. This city was anciently founded by theColchians sent afterMedea, who not being able to fulfil their mission, condemned themselves to exile. AsCallimachus says, "It a Greek would call The town of Fugitives, but in their tongue 'TisPola named. " The different parts of Transpadana are inhabited by theHeneti and theIstrii as far asPola; above theHeneti, by theCarni, theCenomani, theMedoaci, and theSymbri. These nations were formerly at enmity with the Romans, but theCenomani andHeneti allied themselves with that nation, both prior to the expedition ofHannibal, when they waged war with theBoii and Symbrii, and also after that time.
§ 5.1.10 Cispadana comprehends all that country enclosed between theApennines and theAlps as far asGenoa and theVada-Sabbatorum. The greater part was inhabited by theBoii, theLigurians, theSenones, andGaesatae; but after the depopulation of theBoii, and the destruction of theGaesatae andSenones, theLigurian tribes and the Roman colonies alone remained. The nation of theOmbrici and certain of theTyrrheni are also mixed amongst the Romans. These two nations, before the aggrandizement of the Romans, had some disputes with each other concerning precedence. Having only the riverTiber between, it was easy to commence war upon each other; and if the one sent out an expedition against any nation, it was the ambition of the other to enter the same country with an equal force. Thus, theTyrrheni, having organized a successful expedition against the barbarians [dwelling in the countries] about thePo, but having speedily lost again through their luxury [all they had acquired], theOmbrici made war upon those who had driven them out. Disputes arose between theTyrrheni andOmbrici concerning the right of possessing these places, and both nations founded many colonies; those, however, of theOmbrici were most numerous, as they were nearest to the spot. When the Romans gained the dominion, they sent out colonies to different parts, but preserved those which had been formerly planted by their predecessors. And although now they are all Romans, they are not the less distinguished, some by the names ofOmbri andTyrrheni, others by those ofHeneti,Ligurians, andInsubri.
§ 5.1.11 Both in Cispadana and around thePo there are some fine cities.Placentia andCremona, situated about the middle of the country, are close to each other. Between these andAriminum, areParma,Mutina, andBononia, which is near toRavenna; amongst these are smaller cities on the route toRome, as Acara,Regium Lepidum,Campi Macri, where a public festival is held every year,Claterna,Forum Cornelium; whileFaventia andCaesena, situated near to the river Savio and theRubicon, are adjacent toAriminum.Ariminum, likeRavenna, is an ancient colony of theOmbri. but both of them have received also Roman colonies.Ariminum has a port and a river of the same name as itself. FromPlacentia toAriminum there are 1300 stadia. About 36 miles abovePlacentia, towards the boundaries of the kingdom ofCottius, is the city ofTicinum, by which flows a river bearing the same name, which falls into thePo, while a little out of the route areClastidium,Derthon, andAquae Statiellae. But the direct route toOcelum, along thePo and the Doria river is full of precipices, intersected by numerous other rivers, one of which is theDruentia, and is about 160 miles long. Here commence theAlpine mountains andKeltica. Near to the mountains aboveLuna is the city ofLucca. Some [of the people of this part ofItaly] dwell in villages, nevertheless it is well populated, and furnishes the greater part of the military force, and of equites, of whom the senate is partly composed.Derthon is a considerable city, situated about half way on the road fromGenoa toPlacentia, which are distant 400 stadia from each other.Aquae Statiellae is on the same route. That fromPlacentia toAriminum we have already described, but the sail toRavenna down thePo requires two days and nights. A great part of Cispadana likewise was covered by marshes, through whichHannibal passed with difficulty on his march intoTyrrhenia. ButScaurus drained the plains by navigable canals from thePo to the country of the Parmesans. For theTrebia meeting thePo nearPlacentia, and having previously received many other rivers, is over-swollen near this place. I allude to theScaurus who also made theAemilian road throughPisa andLuna as far as Sabbatorum, and thence throughDerthon. There is another Aemilian road, which continues theVia Flaminia. ForMarcus Lepidus andCaius Flaminius being colleagues in the consulship [187 BCE], and having vanquished theLigurians, the one made theVia Flaminia fromRome acrossTyrrhenia andOmbrica as far as the territory ofAriminum, the other, the road as far asBononia, and thence toAquileia by the roots of theAlps, and encircling the marshes. The boundaries which separate from the rest ofItaly this country, which we designateCiteriorKeltica, were marked by theApennine mountains aboveTyrrhenia and the riverEsino, and afterwards by theRubicon. Both these rivers fall into theAdriatic.
§ 5.1.12 The fertility of this country is proved by its population, the size of its cities, and its wealth, in all of which the Romans of this country surpass the rest ofItaly. The cultivated land produces fruits in abundance and of every kind, and the woods contain such abundance of mast, thatRome is principally supplied from theswine fed there. Being well supplied with water, millet grows there in perfection. This affords the greatest security against famine, inasmuch as millet resists any inclemency of the atmosphere, and never fails, even when there is scarcity of other kinds of grain. Their pitch-works are amazing, and their casks give evidence of the abundance of wine: these are made of wood, and are larger than houses, and the great supply of pitch allows them to be sold cheap. The soft wool and by far the best is produced in the country roundMutina and the river Panaro; while the coarse wool, which forms the main article of clothing amongst the slaves inItaly, is produced inLiguria and the country of theSymbri. There is a middling kind grown aboutPatavium, of which the finer carpets, gausapi, and every thing else of the same sort, whether with the wool on one or on both sides, are made. The mines are not worked now so diligently, because not equally profitable with those of TransalpineKeltica andIberia; but formerly they must have been, since there were gold-diggings even inVercelli, near to Ictimuli, both which villages are near toPlacentia. Here we finish our description of the first part ofItaly, and pass on to the second.
§ 5.2.1 IN the second place, we shall treat of that portion ofLiguria situated in theApennines, between theKeltica already described andTyrrhenia. There is nothing worth mentioning about it, except that the people dwell in villages, ploughing and digging the intractable land, or rather, asPosidonius expresses it, hewing the rocks. The third division contains theTyrrhenians, who dwell next the former, and inhabit the plains extending to theTiber, which river, as far as its outlet, washes the side towards the east, the opposite side being washed by theTyrrhenian andSardinian sea. TheTiber flows from theApennines, and is swelled by many rivers; it flows partly throughTyrrhenia, dividing it in the first instance fromOmbrica, afterwards from theSabini and theLatini, who are situated nextRome as far as the sea-coast; so that these countries are bounded in their breadth by the river [Tiber] and theTyrrhenians, and in their length by each other. They extend upwards towards theApennines which approach theAdriatic. The first are theOmbrici, after these theSabini, and finally the inhabitants ofLatium. They all commence from the river. The country of theLatini extends on one side along the seacoast fromOstia to the city ofSinuessa, on the other it is bounded by the land of theSabini, (Ostia is the port ofRome, through which theTiber passes in its course,) it extends in length as far asCampania and theSamnitic mountains. The country of theSabini lies between theLatini and theOmbrici, it likewise extends to theSamnitic mountains, but approaches nearer to theApennines inhabited by theVestini, thePeligni, and theMarsi. TheOmbrici lie between the country of theSabini andTyrrhenia, but extend beyond the mountains as far asAriminum, andRavenna. TheTyrrheni, commencing from their own sea and theTiber, extend to the circular chain of mountains which stretches fromLiguria to theAdriatic. We will now enter into a detailed account, commencing with these.
§ 5.2.2 TheTyrrheni have now received from the Romans the surname ofEtrusci andTusci. The Greeks thus named them fromTyrrhenus the son ofAtys, as they say, who sent hither a colony fromLydia.Atys, who was one of the descendants ofHercules andOmphale, and had two sons, in a time of famine and scarcity determined by lot thatLydus should remain in the country, but thatTyrrhenus, with the greater part of the people, should depart. Arriving here, he named the country after himself,Tyrrhenia, and founded twelve cities, having appointed as their governor Tarcon, from whom the city ofTarquinia [received its name], and who, on account of the sagacity which he had displayed from childhood, was feigned to have been born with hoary hair. Placed originally under one authority, they became flourishing; but it seems that in after-times, their confederation being broken up and each city separated, they yielded to the violence of the neighbouring tribes. Otherwise they would never have abandoned a fertile country for a life ofpiracy on the sea. roving from one ocean to another; since, when united they were able not only to repel those who assailed them, but to act on the offensive, and undertake long campaigns. After the foundation ofRome,Demaratus arrived here, bringing with him people fromCorinth. He was received atTarquinia, where he had a son, namedLucumo, by a woman of that country.Lucumo becoming the friend ofAncus Marcius, king of the Romans, succeeded him on the throne, and assumed the name ofLucius Tarquinius Priscus. Both he and his father did much for the embellishment ofTyrrhenia, the one by means of the numerous artists who had followed him from their native country; the other having the resources ofRome. It is said that the triumphal costume of the consuls, as well as that of the other magistrates, was introduced from theTarquinii, with the fasces, axes, trumpets, sacrifices, divination, and music employed by the Romans in their public ceremonies. His son, the secondTarquin, named Superbus, who was driven from his throne, was the last king [ofRome ].Porsena, king ofClusium, a city ofTyrrhenia, endeavoured to replace him on the throne by force of arms, but not being able he made peace with the Romans, and departed in a friendly way, with honour and loaded with gifts.
§ 5.2.3 Such are the facts concerning the celebrity of theTyrrheni, to which may be added the exploits of theCaeretani, who defeated theGalatae after they had takenRome. Having attacked them as they were departing through the country of theSabini, they took from them, much against their will, the ransom which the Romans had willingly paid to them; besides this, they took under their protection those who fled to them out ofRome, the sacred fire and the priestesses ofVesta. The Romans, influenced by those who then misgoverned the city, seem not to have been properly mindful of this service; for although they conferred on them the rights of citizenship, they did not enrol them amongst the citizens; and further, they inscribed upon the same roll with theCaeretani, others who did not enjoy as great privileges as they did. However, amongst the Greeks this city was highly esteemed both for its bravery and rectitude of conduct; for they refrained frompiracy, with favourable opportunities for engaging in it, and dedicated atDelphi the treasure, as it was called, of theAgyllaei; for their country was formerly namedAgylla, though nowCaerea. It is said to have been founded byPelasgi fromThessaly. TheLydians, who had taken the name ofTyrrheni, having engaged in war against theAgyllaei, one of them, approaching the wall, inquired the name of the city; when one of theThessalians from the wall, instead of answering the question, saluted him with χαῖρε. TheTyrrheni received this as an omen, and having taken the city they changed its name. This city, once so flourishing and celebrated, only preserves the traces [of its former greatness]; the neighbouring hot springs, named Caeretana, being more frequented than it, by the people attracted thither for the sake of their health.
§ 5.2.4 Almost every one is agreed that thePelasgi were an ancient race spread throughout the whole of Greece, but especially in the country of theAeolians near toThessaly.Ephorus, however, says that he considers they were originallyArcadians, who had taken up a warlike mode of life; and having persuaded many others to the same course, imparted their own name to the whole, and became famous both among the Greeks, and in every other country where they chanced to come.Homer informs us that there were colonies of them inCrete, for he makesUlysses say toPenelope — " Diverse their language is;Achaians some, And some indigenous are;Cydonians there, Crest-shakingDorians, andPelasgians dwell." [Od. xix. 175.] And that portion ofThessaly between the outlets of thePeneius and theThermopylae, as far as the mountains ofPindus, is named Pelasgic Argos, the district having formerly belonged to thePelasgi. The poet himself also gives toDodonaeanJupiter, the epithet ofPelasgian: — "Pelasgian,DodonaeanJove supreme." Iliad xvi. 223. Many have likewise asserted that the nations of theEpirus are Pelasgic, because the dominions of thePelasgi extended so far. And, as many of the heroes have been namedPelasgi, later writers have applied the same name to the nations over which they were the chiefs. ThusLesbos has been called Pelasgic, andHomer has called the people bordering on theCilices in theTroad Pelasgic: — "Hippothous fromLarissa, for her soil Far-famed, the spear-expertPelasgians brought." Iliad ii. 840Ephorus, when he supposes that they were a tribe ofArcadians, followsHesiod, who says, "The sons born of the divineLycaon, whom formerlyPelasgus begot. " LikewiseAeschylus in his Suppliants, orDanaids, makes their race to be ofArgos nearMycenae.Ephorus likewise says thatPeloponnesus was namedPelasgia; andEuripides, in theArchelaus, says, "Danaus, who was the father of fifty daughters, having arrived inArgos inhabited the city ofInachus, and made a law that those who had before borne the name ofPelasgiotae throughout Greece should be calledDanai."Anticlides says, that they first colonized aboutLemnos andImbros, and that some of their number passed intoItaly withTyrrhenus, the son ofAtys. And the writers on theAthenian Antiquities, relate of thePelasgi, that some of them came toAthens, where, on account of their wanderings, and their settling like birds in any place where they chanced to come, they were called by theAthenians Pelargi.
§ 5.2.5 They say that the greatest length ofTyrrhenia, which is along the coast fromLuna toOstia, is about 2500 stadia; and that its breadth in the direction of the mountains is less than half that number. Then fromLuna toPisa there are more than 400 stadia; from thence toVolaterrae 280; thence toPoplonium 270; and fromPoplonium to Cossanear 800, or as some say, 600.Polybius, however, says that there are not in all 1330. Of theseLuna is a city and harbour; it is named by the Greeks, the harbour and city ofSelene. The city is not large, but the harbour is very fine and spacious, containing in itself numerous harbours, all of them deep near the shore; it is in fact an arsenal worthy of a nation holding dominion for so long a time over so vast a sea. The harbour is surrounded by lofty mountains, from whence you may view the sea andSardinia, and a great part of the coast on either side. Here are quarries of marble, both white and marked with green, so numerous and large, as to furnish tablets and columns of one block; and most of the material for the fine works, both inRome and the other cities, is furnished from hence. The transport of the marble is easy, as the quarries lie near to the sea, and from the sea they are conveyed by theTiber.Tyrrhenia likewise supplies most of the straightest and longest planks for building, as they are brought direct from the mountains to the river. BetweenLuna andPisa flows theMacra, a division which many writers consider the true boundary ofTyrrhenia andLiguria.Pisa was founded by thePisatae of thePeloponnesus, who went underNestor to the expedition againstTroy, but in their voyage home wandered out of their course, some toMetapontium, others to thePisatis; they were, however, all calledPylians. The city lies between the two riversArno andAesar, at their point of confluence; the former of which, though very full, descends fromArretium not in one body, but divided into three; the second flows down from theApennines. Where they fall into one current, the shock between them is so great as to raise the water to that height, that people standing on either bank are not able to see each other; so that necessarily the voyage up from the sea is difficult. This voyage is about 20 stadia. There is a tradition, that when these rivers first descended from the mountains they were impeded by the inhabitants of the district, lest falling together they should inundate the country; however, they promised not to inundate it, and they have kept their word. This city appears to have been formerly flourishing, and at the present day it still maintains its name, on account of its fertility, its marble-quarries, and its wood for building ships, which formerly they employed to preserve themselves from danger by sea; for they were more warlike than theTyrrheni, and were constantly irritated by theLigurians, troublesome neighbours, who dwelt on the coast. At the present day the wood is mostly employed for building houses inRome, and in the country villas [of the Romans], which resemble in their gorgeousnessPersian palaces.
§ 5.2.6 The country of theVolaterrani is washed by the sea. Their city is situated in a deep hollow on the top of a high hill. The wall of the city is built round its summit, which is flat and precipitous on every side. From its base, the ascent upward is fifteen stadia, steep and difficult. Here certain of theTyrrhenians and of those proscribed bySulla, took their stand, and having organized four bands, sustained a siege for two years, and at last secured articles of truce before surrendering the place.Poplonium is situated on a lofty promontory, which projects into the sea, and forms a chersonesus. It likewise sustained a siege about the same time. This little place is now deserted, with the exception of the sanctuarys and a few houses; the sea-port, which is situated at the root of the mountain, is better inhabited, having both a small harbour and ship-sheds. This appears to me the only one of the ancientTyrrhenian cities situated on the sea; the reason being that this territory affords no harbours. The founders [of the cities] therefore either avoided the sea altogether, or threw up fortifications in order that they might not become the ready prey of those who might sail against them. On the summit [of the cape] there is a look-out forthunnies. From this city there is an indistinct and distant view ofSardinia.Cyrnus, however, is nearer, being distant fromSardinia about 60 stadia. WhileAethalia is much nearer to the continent than either, being distant therefrom only 300 stadia, and the same number fromCyrnus.Poplonium is the best startingplace to any of the three mentioned islands. We ourselves observed them from the height ofPoplonium, in which place we saw certain mines which had been abandoned, we also saw the craftsmen who work the iron brought fromAethalia; for they cannot reduce it into bars in the furnaces on the island, and it is therefore transferred direct from the mines to the continent. There is another remarkable circumstance, that the exhausted mines of the island in course of time are again refilled similarly to what they say takes place at the platamones inRhodes, the marble-quarries inParos, and the salt-mines inIndia, mentioned byClitarchus.Eratosthenes was therefore incorrect in saying that from the mainland you could neither seeCyrnus norSardinia; and so wasArtemidorus in his assertion, that both these places lay in the high sea at a distance of 1200 stadia. For whatever others might, I certainly could never have seen them at such a distance, however carefully I had looked, particularlyCyrnus.Aethalia has a harbour named Argoiis, derived, as they say, from the [ship]Argo,Jason having sailed hither, seeking the abode ofCirce asMedea wished to see that goddess; and that from the sweat scraped off by theArgonauts and hardened, are formed the variegated pebbles now seen on the beach. This and similar traditions prove what we before stated, thatHomer did not invent them all himself, but, hearing the numerous current stories, he merely transferred the scenes to other localities and exaggerated the distances: as he makesUlysses wander over the ocean, so does he narrate ofJason, as he too had been renowned for his travels: and the same he likewise relates ofMenelaus. This is what we have to say ofAethalia.
§ 5.2.7 Cyrnus is called by the RomansCorsica; it is poorly inhabited, being both rugged and in many parts entirely inaccessible, so that the mountaineers, who live by plunder, are more savage than wild beasts. Whenever any Roman general invades the country, and, penetrating into the wilds, seizes a vast number of slaves, it is a marvel to behold inRome how savage and bestial they appear. For they either scorn to live, or if they do live, aggravate their purchasers by their apathy and insensibility, causing them to regret the purchase-money, however small. We must remark, however, that some districts are habitable, and that there are some small cities, for instance Blesino,Charax, Eniconiae, and Vapanes. The chorographer says that the length of this island is 160 miles, its breadth 70; that the length ofSardinia is 220, and its breadth 98. According to others, the perimeter ofCyrnus is said to be about 1200 stadia, and ofSardinia 4000. A great portion of this latter is rugged and untranquil; another large portion is fertile in every production, but particularly in wheat. There are many cities, some are considerable, asCaralis andSulchi. There is however an evil, which must be set against the fertility of these places; for during the summer the island is unhealthy, more particularly so in the most fertile districts; in addition to this, it is often ravaged by the mountaineers, whom they call Diagesbes, who formerly were named Iolaenses. For it is said thatIolaus brought hither certain of the children ofHercules, and established himself amongst the barbarian possessors of the island, who wereTyrrhenians. Afterwards thePhoenicians ofCarthage became masters of the island, and, assisted by the inhabitants, carried on war against the Romans; but after the subversion of theCarthaginians, the Romans became masters of the whole. There are four nations of mountaineers, theParati, Sossinati,Balari, and theAconites. These people dwell in caverns. Although they have some arable land, they neglect its cultivation, preferring rather to plunder what they find cultivated by others, whether on the island or on the continent, where they make descents, especially upon thePisatae. The prefects sent [intoSardinia ] sometimes resist them, but at other times leave them alone, since it would cost too dear to maintain an army always on foot in an unhealthy place: they have, however, recourse to the arts of stratagem, and taking advantage of the custom of the barbarians, who always hold a great festival for several days after returning from a plundering expedition, they then fall upon them, and capture many. There are rams here which, instead of wool, have hair resembling that of agoat; they are called musmones, and the inhabitants make corselets of their hides. They likewise arm themselves with a pelta and a small sword.
§ 5.2.8 Along the whole coast betweenPoplonium andPisa these islands are clearly visible; they are oblong, and all three nearly parallel, running towards the south andLibya.Aethalia is by far smaller than either of the other two. The chorographer says that the shortest passage fromLibya toSardinia is 300 miles. AfterPoplonium is the city ofCossae, situated at a short distance from the sea: there is at the head of the bay a high hill upon which it is built; below it lies the port ofHercules, and near to it a marsh formed by the sea. At the summit of the cape which commands the gulf is a lookout forthunnies; for thetunny pursues his course along the coast, from theAtlantic Ocean as far asSicily, in search not only of acorns, but also of the fish which furnishes the purple dye. As one sails along the coast fromCossae toOstia there are the towns ofGravisci,Pyrgi,Alsium, andFregena. [From Cossae] toGravisci is a distance of 300 stadia, and between them is the place named Regis-Villa. This is said to have been the royal residence ofMaleos thePelasgian; they report that after he had reigned here for some time, he departed with hisPelasgians toAthens. These were of the same tribe as those who occupiedAgylla. FromGravisci toPyrgi is a little less than 180 stadia, and the sea-port town of theCaeretani is 30 stadia farther. [Pyrgi] contains a sanctuary ofIlethyia founded by thePelasgi, and which was formerly rich, but it was plundered byDionysius the tyrant of theSicilians, at the time of his voyage toCyrnus. FromPyrgi toOstia is 260 stadia; between the two areAlsium andFregena. Such is our account of the coast ofTyrrhenia.
§ 5.2.9 In the interior of the country, besides the cities already mentioned, there areArretium,Perusia,Volsinii,Sutrium; and in addition to these are numerous small cities, asBlera,Ferentinum,Falerium,Faliscum, Nepita,Statonia, and many others; some of which exist in their original state, others have been colonized by the Romans, or partially ruined by them in their wars, viz. those they frequently waged against theVeii and theFidenae. Some say that the inhabitants ofFalerium are notTyrrhenians, butFalisci, a distinct nation; others state further, that theFalisci speak a language peculiar to themselves; some again would make it Aequum-Faliscum on theVia Flaminia, lying betweenOcricli andRome. BelowMount Soracte is the city ofFeronia, having the same name as a certain goddess of the country, highly reverenced by the surrounding people: here is her sanctuary, in which a remarkable ceremony is performed, for those possessed by the divinity pass over a large bed of burning coal and ashes barefoot, unhurt. A great concourse of people assemble to assist at the festival, which is celebrated yearly, and to see the said spectacle.Arretium, near the mountains, is the most inland city: it is distant fromRome 1200 stadia: fromClusium [toRome ] is 800 stadia. Near to these [two cities] isPerusia. The large and numerous lakes add to the fertility of this country, they are navigable, and stocked with fish and aquatic birds. Large quantities of typha, papyrus, and anthela are transported toRome, up the rivers which flow from these lakes to theTiber. Among these are thelake Ciminius, and those near theVolsinii, andClusium, andSabatus, which is nearest toRome and the sea, and the farthestTrasumennus, nearArretium. Along this is the pass by which armies can proceed fromCisalpine Celtica intoTyrrhenia; this is the one followed byHannibal. There are two; the other leads towardsAriminum acrossOmbrica, and is preferable as the mountains are considerably lower; however, as this was carefully guarded,Hannibal was compelled to take the more difficult, which he succeeded in forcing after having vanquishedFlaminius in a decisive engagement. There are likewise inTyrrhenia numerous hot springs, which on account of their proximity toRome, are not less frequented than those ofBaiae, which are the most famous of all.
§ 5.2.10 Ombrica lies along the eastern boundary ofTyrrhenia, and commencing from theApennines, or rather beyond those mountains, [extends] as far as theAdriatic. For commencing fromRavenna, theOmbrici inhabit the neighbouring country together with the cities ofSarsina,Ariminum,Sena, † and Marinum. † To their country likewise belongs the riverEsino, MountCingulum, [the city of]Sentinum, the riverMetaurus, and theFanum Fortunae; for about these parts are the boundaries which separate ancientItaly andCisalpine Gaul on the side next theAdriatic, although the boundary has frequently been changed by the chief men of the state. First they made theEsino the boundary; afterwards the riverRubicon: theEsino being betweenAncona andSena, and theRubicon betweenAriminum andRavenna, both of them falling into theAdriatic. At the present day, however, sinceItaly comprehends the whole country as far as theAlps, we need take no further notice of these limits. All allow thatOmbrica extends as far asRavenna, as the inhabitants areOmbrici. FromRavenna toAriminum they say is about 300 stadia. Going fromAriminum toRome by theVia Flaminia, the whole journey lies throughOmbrica as far as the city ofOcricli and theTiber, a distance of 1350 stadia. This, consequently, is the length [ofOmbrica]; its breadth varies. The cities of considerable magnitude situated on this side theApennines along theVia Flaminia, areOcricli on theTiber, Laroloni, andNarnia, through which theNar flows. This river discharges itself into theTiber a little aboveOcricli; it is not navigable for large vessels. After these areCarsuli andMevania, past which latter the Teneas flows, by which river the merchandise of the plain is transported in small vessels to theTiber. There are also other cities well populated, rather on account of the route along which they lie, than for their political importance. Such areForum Flaminium,Nuceria where wooden vases are manufactured, andForum Sempronium. Going fromOcricli toAriminum, on the right of the way areInteramna,Spoletium,Asisium, andCamerta, situated in the mountains which boundPicenum. On the other side areAmeria,Tuder, a well-fortified city,Hispellum, andIguvium, near to the passes of the mountain. The whole of this country is fertile, but rather too mountainous, and producing more rye than wheat for the food of the inhabitants. The next district,Sabina, is mountainous, and borders onTyrrhenia in like manner. The parts ofLatium which border on these districts and theApennines are very rugged. These two nations commence from theTiber andTyrrhenia, and extend as far as theApennines which advance obliquely towards theAdriatic:Ombrica extends, as we have said, beyond as far as the sea. We have now sufficiently described theOmbrici.
§ 5.3.1 TheSabini occupy a narrow country, its length from theTiber and the small city ofNomentum to theVestini being 1000 stadia. They have but few cities, and these have suffered severely in their continual wars [with the Romans]. Such areAmiternum andReate, which is near to the village ofInterocrea and the cold waters atCotyliae, which are taken by patients, both as drink and as baths, for the cure of various maladies. The rocks of Foruli, likewise, belong to theSabini; fitted rather for rebellion than peaceable habitation.Cures is now a small village, although formerly a famous city: whence cameTitus Tatius andNuma Pompilius, kings ofRome. From this place is derived the name of Quirites, which the orators give to the Romans when they address the people.Trebula,Eretum, and other similar places, must be looked upon rather as villages than cities. The whole land [ofSabina] is singularly fertile in olive-trees and vines, it produces also many acorns, and besides has excellentcattle: the mules bred atReate are much celebrated. In one word, the whole ofItaly is rich both incattle and vegetable productions; although certain articles may be finer in some districts than in others. The race of theSabini is extremely ancient, they are Autochthones. ThePicentini andSamnitae descend from them, as do theLeucani from these latter, and theBruttii again from these. A proof of their antiquity may be found in the bravery and valour which they have maintained till the present time.Fabius, the historian, says that the Romans first knew what wealth was when they became masters of this nation. TheVia Salaria, which however does not extend far, runs through their country: theVia Nomentana, which commences likewise at thePorta Collina, falls in with theVia Salaria near toEretum, a village ofSabina lying above theTiber.
§ 5.3.2 BeyondSabina isLatium, wherein the city ofRome is situated. It comprises many places which formed no part of ancientLatium. For theAequi, theVolsci, theHernici, the aborigines aroundRome, theRutuli who possessed ancientArdea, and many other nations, some larger, some smaller, formed so many separate states aroundRome, when that city was first built. Some of these nations, who dwelt in villages, were governed by their own laws, and subjected to no common tribe. They say thatAeneas, with his fatherAnchises and his childAscanius, arrived atLaurentum, near toOstia and the bank of theTiber, where he built a city about 24 stadia above the sea. ThatLatinus, the king of the aborigines who then dwelt on the site whereRome now stands, employed his forces to aidAeneas against the neighbouringRutuli who inhabitedArdea, (now fromArdea toRome is a distance of 160 stadia,) and having gained a victory, he built near to the spot a city, to which he gave the name of his daughterLavinia. However, in a second battle, commenced by theRutuli,Latinus fell, andAeneas, being conqueror, succeeded this prince on the throne, and conferred on his subjects the name ofLatini. After the death both of himself and his father,Ascanius foundedAlba, on MountAlbanus, situated about the same distance fromRome asArdea. Here the Romans andLatini conjointly offer sacrifice toJupiter. The magistracy all assemble, and during the period of the solemnity the government of the city is intrusted to some distinguished youth. The facts related ofAmulius and his brotherNumitor, some of which are fictitious, while others approach nearer the truth, occurred four hundred years later. These two brothers, who were descended fromAscanius, succeeded conjointly to the government ofAlba, which extended as far as theTiber. However,Amulius the younger, having expelled the elder, governed [alone].Numitor had a son and a daughter; the formerAmulius treacherously murdered in the chase; the latter, that she might remain childless, he made a priestess ofVesta, thus imposing virginity upon her. This [daughter] they nameRhea Silvia. Afterwards he discovered that she was pregnant, and when she had given birth to twins, he, out of respect to his brother, placed her in confinement, instead of putting her to death, and exposed the boys by theTiber according to a national usage. According to the mythology,Mars was the father of these children, and when they were exposed they were discovered and suckled by a she-wolf.Faustulus, one of the swine-herds of the place, took and reared them up, and named oneRomulus, the otherRemus. (We must understand thatFaustulus, who took them up and nourished them, was an influential man, and a subject ofAmulius.) Having arrived at man's estate, they waged war uponAmulius and his sons; and having slain them, restored the government toNumitor. They then returned home and foundedRome, in a locality selected rather through necessity than choice, as the site was neither fortified by nature, nor sufficiently large for a city of importance. In addition to this, the neighbourhood supplied no inhabitants; for those who dwelt around, even though touching the very walls of the newly founded city, kept to themselves, and would have nothing at all to do with theAlbani.Collatia,Antemnae,Fidenae,Labicum, and similar places are here alluded to, which then were small cities, but are now villages possessed by private individuals; they are distant fromRome 30 or 40 stadia, or rather more. Between the fifth and sixth mile-stone which marks the distance fromRome there is a place named Festi; this they say was at that time the limit of the Roman territory, and at the present day, both here and in numerous other places which they consider to have been boundaries, the priests offer the sacrifice denominated Ambarvia. They say that, at the time of the foundation [of the city], a dispute arose in whichRemus lost his life. The city being built,Romulus assembled men from every quarter, and instituted for an asylum a grove between the citadel and theCapitol, to which whoever fled from the neighbouring states, he proclaimed as Roman citizens. Not having wives for these men, he appointed a horse-race in honour ofNeptune, which is celebrated to this day. Numbers [of spectators] having assembled, particularly of theSabini, he commanded that each of those who were in want of a wife, should carry off one of the assembled maidens.Titus Tatius, king of the Quirites, took up arms to avenge the insult, but made peace withRomulus on condition that their kingdoms should be united, and that they should divide the sovereignty between them.Tatius, however, was treacherously assassinated inLavinium, upon whichRomulus, with the consent of the Quirites, reigned alone. After himNuma Pompilius, formerly a subject ofTatius, assumed the government, by the general desire of the people. Such is the most authentic account of the foundation ofRome.
§ 5.3.3 However, there also exists another more ancient and mythical account, to the effect thatRome was anArcadian colony planted byEvander. He entertainedHercules when driving theoxen ofGeryon, and being informed by his motherNicostrata, (who was skilled in the art of prophecy,) that whenHercules should have completed his labours it was fore-ordained that he should be enrolled amongst the gods; he informed him of the matter, consecrated to him a grove, and offered sacrifice to him after the Grecian mode; a sacrifice which is continued in honour ofHercules to this day. The Roman historianCoelius is of opinion that this is a proof thatRome is a Grecian colony, the sacrifice toHercules after the Grecian mode having been brought over from their fatherland. The Romans also worship the mother ofEvander under the name ofCarmentis, considering her one of the nymphs.
§ 5.3.4 Thus then theLatini originally were few in number, and for the most part under no subjection to the Romans; but afterwards, being struck by the valour ofRomulus and the kings who succeeded him, they all submitted. But theAequi, theVolsci, theHernici; and before them theRutuli, the aborigines, theRhaeci, together with certain of theArgyrusci and thePreferni, being subdued, the whole of their different countries were included under the name ofLatium. To theVolsci pertained the Pomentine plain, bordering on the territory of theLatini, and the city ofApiola, levelled to the ground byTarquinius Priscus. TheAequi principally were neighbours to the Quirites, whose citiesTarquinius Priscus likewise devastated. His son tookSuessa, the metropolis of theVolsci. TheHernici dwelt near toLanuvium,Alba, and toRome itself; neither wereAricia, theTellenae, andAntium at any great distance. TheAlbani were at first friendly with the Romans, speaking as they did the same language, and being likewise of theLatin stock; and though they were under separate governments, this did not prevent them from marrying together, nor from performing in common the sacred ceremonies atAlba, and other civil rites. In after-time, however, war having sprung up,Alba was entirely destroyed with the exception of the sanctuary, and theAlbani were declared citizens ofRome. Of the other surrounding cities, those which resisted were either destroyed or enfeebled, while others, which were friendly to the Romans, flourished. At the present day the coast fromOstia to the city ofSinuessa is denominated theLatin coast; formerly the country thus designated extended only so far asCircaion. The interior also [ofLatium] was formerly small; but it afterwards extended toCampania, theSamnitae, thePeligni, and other nations dwelling around theApennines.
§ 5.3.5 The whole [ofLatium] is fertile, and abounding in every production, with the exception of a few districts along the coast, which are marshy and unhealthy; such as the country ofArdea, the lands betweenAntium andLanuvium as far asPometia, and certain of the districts ofSetia,Terracina, andCircaion. Some parts may also be too mountainous and rocky; but even these are not absolutely idle and useless, since they furnish abundant pasturage, wood, and the peculiar productions of the marsh and rock; whileCaecubum, which is entirely marshy, nourishes a vine, the dendritis, which produces the most excellent wine. Of the maritime cities ofLatium, one isOstia. This city has no port, owing to the accumulation of the alluvial deposit brought down by theTiber, which is swelled by numerous rivers; vessels therefore bring to anchor further out, but not without danger; however, gain overcomes every thing, for there is an abundance of lighters in readiness to freight and unfreight the larger ships, before they approach the mouth of the river, and thus enable them to perform their voyage speedily. Being lightened of a part of their cargo, they enter the river and sail up toRome, a distance of about 190 stadia. Such is the city ofOstia, founded byAncus Martius. Next in order comesAntium, which city is likewise destitute of any port; it is situated on rocks, and about 260 stadia distant fromOstia. At the present day it is devoted to the leisure and recreation of statesmen from their political duties, whenever they can find time, and is in consequence covered with sumptuous mansions suited to such rusticating. The inhabitants ofAntium had formerly a marine, and even after they were under subjection to the Romans, took part with theTyrrhenianpirates. Of this, first,Alexander sent to complain; after himDemetrius, having taken many of thesepirates, sent them to the Romans, saying that he would surrender them their persons on account of their affinity to the Greeks, and remarking at the same time, that it seemed to him a great impropriety, that those who held sway over the whole ofItaly should send outpirates, and that they who had consecrated in their forum a sanctuary to the honour of theDioscuri, whom all denominated the Saviours, should likewise send to commit acts ofpiracy on Greece, which was the father-land of those divinities. Hereupon the Romans put a stop to this occupation [piracy]. Between these two cities isLavinium, which contains a sanctuary ofVenus common to all theLatini, the care of which is intrusted to the priests ofArdea. After this isLaurentum; and above these liesArdea, a colony of theRutuli, 70 stadia from the sea; near to it is another sanctuary ofVenus, where all theLatini hold a public festival. These regions have been ravaged by theSamnitae, and only the traces of the cities left; but even these are reverenced on account of the arrival ofAeneas here, and of the religious rites which they say were bequeathed from those times.
§ 5.3.6 At 290 stadia fromAntium is MountCircaion, insulated by the sea and marshes. They say that it contains numerous roots, but this perhaps is only to harmonize with the myth relating toCirce. It has a small city, together with a sanctuary toCirce and an altar toMinerva; they likewise say that a cup is shown which belonged toUlysses. Between [Antium and Circaion] is the river Stura, which has a station for ships: the rest of the coast is exposed to the southwest wind, with the exception of this small harbour ofCircaion. Above this, in the interior, is the Pomentine plain: the region next to this was formerly inhabited by theAusonians, who likewise possessedCampania: next after these theOsci, who also held part ofCampania; now, however, as we have remarked, the whole, as far asSinuessa, belongs to theLatini. A peculiar fate has attended theOsci andAusonians; for although theOsci have ceased to exist as a distinct tribe, their dialect is extant among the Romans, dramatic and burlesque pieces composed in it being still represented at certain games which were instituted in ancient times. And as for theAusonians, although they never have dwelt by the sea ofSicily, it is named theAusonian Sea. At 100 stadia fromCircaion isTarracina, formerly named Trachina, on account of its ruggedness; before it is a great marsh, formed by two rivers, the larger of which is called theAufidus. This is the first place where theVia Appia approaches the sea. This road is paved fromRome toBrundusium, and has great traffic. Of the maritime cities, these alone are situated on it;Tarracina, beyond itFormiae,Minturnae,Sinuessa, and towards its extremityTarentum andBrundusium. Near toTarracina, advancing in the direction ofRome, a canal runs by the side of theVia Appia, which is supplied at intervals by water from the marshes and rivers. Travellers generally sail up it by night, embarking in the evening, and landing in the morning to travel the rest of their journey by the way; however, during the day the passage boat is towed by mules. Beyond isFormiae, founded by theLacedemonians, and formerly called Hormiae, on account of its excellent port. Between these [two cities], is a gulf which they have named Caiata, in fact all gulfs are called by theLacedemonians Caietae: some, however, say that the gulf received this appellation from [Caieta], the nurse ofAeneas. FromTarracina to the promontory ofCaiata is a length of 100 stadia. Here are opened vast caverns, which contain large and sumptuous mansions. From hence toFormiae is a distance of 40 stadia. Between this city andSinuessa, at a distance of about 80 stadia from each, isMinturnae. The riverLiris, formerly named theClanis, flows through it. It descends from theApennines, passes through the country of theVescini, and by the village ofFregellae, (formerly a famous city,) and so into a sacred grove situated below the city, and held in great veneration by the people ofMinturnae. There are two islands, namedPandataria andPontia, lying in the high sea, and clearly discernible from the caverns. Although small, they are well inhabited, are not at any great distance from each other, and at 250 stadia from the mainland.Caecubum is situated on the gulf of Caieta, and next to itFundi, a city on theVia Appia. All these places produce excellent wines; but those ofCaecubum,Fundi, andSetia are most in repute, and so are theFalernian,Alban, and Statanian wines.Sinuessa is situated in a gulf from which it takes its name, sinus signifying [in Latin] a gulf. Near to it are some fine hot-baths, good for the cure of various maladies. Such are the maritime cities ofLatium.
§ 5.3.7 In the interior, the first city aboveOstia isRome; it is the only city built on theTiber. It has been remarked above, that its position was fixed, not by choice, but necessity; to this must be added, that those who afterwards enlarged it, were not at liberty to select a better site, being prevented by what was already built. The first [kings] fortified theCapitol, thePalatium, and theCollis Quirinalis, which was so easy of access, that whenTitus Tatius came to avenge the rape of the [Sabine] virgins, he took it on the first assault.Ancus Marcius, who added MountCaelius and theAventine Mount with the intermediate plain, separated as these places were both from each other and from what had been formerly fortified, was compelled to do this of necessity; since he did not consider it proper to leave outside his walls, heights so well protected by nature, to whomsoever might have a mind to fortify themselves upon them, while at the same time he was not capable of enclosing the whole as far as MountQuirinus.Servius perceived this defect, and added theEsquiline andViminal hills. As these were both of easy access from without, a deep trench was dug outside them and the earth thrown up on the inside, thus forming a terrace of 6 stadia in length along the inner side of the trench. This terrace he surmounted with a wall flanked with towers, and extending from theColline to theEsquiline gate. Midway along the terrace is a third gate, named after theViminal hill. Such is the Roman rampart, which seems to stand in need of other ramparts itself. But it seems to me that the first [founders] were of opinion, both in regard to themselves and their successors, that Romans had to depend not on fortifications, but on arms and their individual valour, both for safety and for wealth, and that walls were not a defence to men, but men were a defence to walls. At the period of its commencement, when the large and fertile districts surrounding the city belonged to others, and while it lay easily open to assault, there was nothing in its position which could be looked upon as favourable; but when by valour and labour these districts became its own, there succeeded a tide of prosperity surpassing the advantages of every other place. Thus, notwithstanding the prodigious increase of the city, there has been plenty of food, and also of wood and stone for ceaseless building, rendered necessary by the falling down of houses, and on account of conflagrations, and of the sales, which seem never to cease. These sales are a kind of voluntary falling down of houses, each owner knocking down and rebuilding one part or another, according to his individual taste. For these purposes the numerous quarries, the forests, and the rivers which convey the materials, offer wonderful facilities. Of these rivers, the first is theTeverone, which flows fromAlba, a city of theLatins near to the country of theMarsi, and from thence through the plain below this [city], till it unites with theTiber. After this come theNar (Nar) and the Timia, which passing throughOmbrica fall into theTiber, and the Chiana, which flows throughTyrrhenia and the territory ofClusiumn.Augustus Caesar endeavoured to avert from the city damages of the kind alluded to, and instituted a company of freedmen, who should be ready to lend their assistance in cases of conflagration; whilst, as a preventive against the falling of houses, he decreed that all new buildings should not be carried so high as formerly, and that those erected along the public ways should not exceed seventy feet in height. But these improvements must have ceased only for the facilities afforded by the quarries, the forests, and the ease of transport.
§ 5.3.8 These advantages accrued to the city from the nature of the country; but the foresight of the Romans added others besides. The Grecian cities are thought to have flourished mainly on account of the felicitous choice made by their founders, in regard to the beauty and strength of their sites, their proximity to some port, and the fineness of the country. But the Roman prudence was more particularly employed on matters which had received but little attention from the Greeks, such as paving their roads, constructing aqueducts, and sewers, to convey the sewage of the city into theTiber. In fact, they have paved the roads, cut through hills, and filled up valleys, so that the merchandise may be conveyed by carriage from the ports. The sewers, arched over with hewn stones, are large enough in some parts for waggons loaded with hay to pass through; while so plentiful is the supply of water from the aqueducts, that rivers may be said to flow through the city and the sewers, and almost every house is furnished with water-pipes and copious fountains. To effect whichMarcus Agrippa directed his special attention; he likewise bestowed upon the city numerous ornaments. We may remark, that the ancients, occupied with greater and more necessary concerns, paid but little attention to the beautifying ofRome. But their successors, and especially those of our own day, without neglecting these things, have at the same time embellished the city with numerous and splendid objects.Pompey, divusCaesar, andAugustus, with his children, friends, wife, and sister, have surpassed all others in their zeal and munificence in these decorations. The greater number of these may be seen in theCampus Martius, which to the beauties of nature adds those of art. The size of the plain is marvellous, permitting chariot-races and other feats of horsemanship without impediment, and multitudes to exercise themselves at ball, in the circus and the palaestra. The structures which surround it, the turf covered with herbage all the year round, the summits of the hills beyond theTiber, extending from its banks with panoramic effect, present a spectacle which the eye abandons with regret. Near to this plain is another surrounded with columns, sacred groves, three theatres, anamphitheatre, and superb temples in close contiguity to each other; and so magnificent, that it would seem idle to describe the rest of the city after it. For this cause the Romans, esteeming it as the most sacred place, have there erected funeral monuments to the most illustrious persons of either sex. The most remarkable of these is that designated as theMausoleum, which consists of a mound of earth raised upon a high foundation of white marble, situated near the river, and covered to the top with ever-green shrubs. Upon the summit is a bronze statue ofAugustus Caesar, and beneath the mound are the ashes of himself, his relatives, and friends. Behind is a large grove containing charming promenades. In the centre of theplain, is the spot where this prince was reduced to ashes; it is surrounded with a double enclosure, one of marble, the other of iron, and planted within with poplars. If from hence you proceed to visit the ancientforum, which is equally filled with basilicas, porticos, and temples, you will there behold theCapitol, thePalatium, with the noble works which adorn them, and the promenade ofLivia, each successive place causing you speedily to forget what you have before seen. Such isRome.
§ 5.3.9 Of the other cities ofLatium, some are distinguished by a variety of remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersectLatium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads, the most celebrated of which are theVia Appia, theVia Latina, and theVia Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion ofLatium, as far asSinuessa, the latter extends alongSabina as far as theMarsi, whilst between these is theVia Latina, which falls in with theVia Appia near toCasilinum, a city distant fromCapua 19 stadia. TheVia Latina commences from theVia Appia, branching from it towards the left, near toRome. It passes over theTusculan mountain, between the city ofTusculum and MountAlbanus; it then descends to the little city ofAlgidum, and thePictae tavern; afterwards theVia Lavicana joins it, which commences, like theVia Praenestina, from theEsquiline gate. This road, as well as theEsquiline plain, theVia Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance of 120 stadia, or more, when it approachesLavicum, an ancient city now in ruins, situated on an eminence; this andTusculum it leaves on the right, and terminates near to Pictae in theVia Latina. This place is 210 stadia distant fromRome. Proceeding thence along theVia Latina there are noble residences, and the citiesFerentinum,Frusino, by which the river Cosa flows,Fabrateria, by which flows the river Sacco,Aquinum, a large city, by which flows the great river Melfa,Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, theLiris and another,Casinum, also an important city, and the last of those belonging toLatium. ForTeanum, calledSidicinum, which lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of theSidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of theCampani, so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon theVia Latina, may be said to beCampanian; as well as that ofCales, another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous toCasilinum.
§ 5.3.10 As to the places situated on either side of theVia Latina, those on the right are between it and theVia Appia; of their number areSetia andSignia, which produce wine, that ofSetia being one of the dearest wines, and that calledSignium the best for strengthening the stomach. Before this arePrivernum,Cora,Suessa, Trapontium,Velitrae,Aletrium, and alsoFregellae, by which theLiris flows, which discharges itself [into the sea] nearMinturnae.Fregellae, though now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its ruin. Both these, and also the cities lying on theVia Latina and beyond, situated in the territories of theHernici,Aequi, andVolsci, were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of theVia Latina, the cities between it and theVia Valeria, are,Gabii, standing in theVia Praenestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater demand atRome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100 stadia betweenRome andPraeneste. ThenPraeneste, of which we shall have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains abovePraeneste,Capitulum, a small city of theHernici, andAnagnia, a considerable city;Cereate, andSora, by which the riverLiris flows as it passes on toFregellae, andMinturnae. After these there are other places, and finally,Venafrum, from whence comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot of which flows theVolturnus, which passing byCasilinum, discharges itself [into the sea] at a city bearing the same name as itself.Aesernia andAlliphae, cities of theSamnites, the former was destroyed in theMarsian war, the other still remains.
§ 5.3.11 TheVia Valeria, commencing fromTibura, leads to the country of theMarsi, and toCorfinium, the metropolis of thePeligni. Upon it are situated theLatin cities ofValeria,Carseoli,Alba, and near to it the city of Cuculum. Within sight ofRome areTibura,Praeneste, andTusculum. AtTibura is a sanctuary ofHercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of theTeverone (which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly fertile plain along by theTiburtine stone-quarries, those of theGabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow the cold waters calledAlbula, they spring from numerous fountains, and are taken both as a beverage and as baths, for the cure of various diseases. Of the same kind are theLabanae, not far from these, on theVia Nomentana, and near toEretum. AtPraeneste is the celebratedsanctuary and oracle ofFortune. Both this and the preceding city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from each other 100 stadia.Praeneste is 200 stadia fromRome,Tibura less than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation,Praeneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified, butPraeneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these [natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of these thatMarius perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people ofPraeneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans. For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the guiltless. The river Verestis flows through this region. The said cities are to the east ofRome.
§ 5.3.12 But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are situated, ] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and MountAlgidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as MountAlbanus. It is on this ridge thatTusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towardsRome. For on this sideTusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are the undulating slopes of MountAlbanus, which are equally fertile and ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them toRome and its environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others are salubrious and well cultivated. Next afterAlbanus is the cityAricia, on theAppian Way. It is 160 stadia fromRome. This place is situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel. Beyond it on one side of the way isLanuvium, a Roman city on the right of theVia Appia, and from which both the sea andAntium may be viewed. On the other side is theArtemisium, which is calledNemus, on the left side of the way, leading fromAricia to the sanctuary. They say that it is consecrated toDiana Taurica, and certainly the rites performed in this sanctuary are something barbarous and Scythic. They appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The sanctuary is in a grove, and before it is a lake of considerable size. The sanctuary and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominatedEgeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
§ 5.3.13 Near to these localities is MountAlbanus, which is much higher than either theArtemisium or the heights surrounding it, although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a lake, much larger than that of theArtemisium. Further forward than these are the cities on theVia Latina, we have already mentioned.Alba is the most inland of all theLatin cities; it borders on theMarsi, and is situated on a high hill near toLake Fucinus. This [lake] is vast as a sea, and is of great service to theMarsi and all the surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again; the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say is the case with theAmenanus, which flows throughCatana, for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is reported that theMarcian water , which is drunk atRome in preference to any other, has its source inFucinus. AsAlba is situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position, the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging important prisoners.
§ 5.4.1 AFTER having commenced with the nations about theAlps, and theApennine mountains which are near to these, we proceeded from thence and passed through that portion of the hither country lying between theTyrrhenian sea and theApennine mountains, which incline towards theAdriatic, as far as theSamnites and theCampani. We will now return again, and describe the mountaineers, and those who dwell at the foot of the mountains; whether on the coast of theAdriatic, or in the interior. Thus, we must recommence from the boundaries ofKeltica.
§ 5.4.2 After the cities of theOmbrici, which are comprised betweenAriminum andAncona, comesPicenum. ThePicentini proceeded originally from the land of theSabini. A woodpecker led the way for their chieftains, and from this bird they have taken their name, it being called in their languagePicus, and is regarded as sacred toMars. They inhabit the plains extending from the mountains to the sea; the length of their country considerably exceeds its breadth; the soil is every where good, but better fitted for the cultivation of fruits than grain. Its breadth, from the mountains to the sea varies in different parts. But its length; from the riverAesis toCastrum, sailing round the coast, is 800 stadia. Of its cities,Ancona is of Grecian origin, having been founded by theSyracusans who fled from the tyranny ofDionysius. It is situated upon a cape, which bending round towards the north forms a harbour; and it abounds in wine and wheat. Near to it is the city ofAuxumon, at a little distance from the sea. After it areSeptempeda,Truentia,Potentia, andFirmum Picenum, with its port of Castellum. Beyond, is the sanctuary ofCupra, built and dedicated by theTyrrheni toJuno, who is named by themCupra; and after it the river Tronto, with acity of the same name. Beyond this isCastrum Novum, and the river Piomba, flowing from the city ofAdria, and having [at its mouth] the naval station of Adria, which bears the same name as itself. In the interior is [the city ofAdria] itself andAsculumPicenum, a very strong position, upon which is built a wall: the mountains which surround it are not accessible to armies. AbovePicenum are theVestini, theMarsi, thePeligni, theMarucini, and theFrentani, aSamnitic nation possessing the hill-country, and extending almost to the sea. All these nations are small, but extremely brave, and have frequently given the Romans proofs of their valour, first as enemies, afterwards as allies; and finally, having demanded the liberty and rights of citizens, and being denied, they revolted and kindled theMarsian war. They decreed thatCorfinium, the metropolis of thePeligni, should be the capital for all theItalians instead ofRome: made it their place d'armes, and new-named itItalica. Then, having convoked deputies from all the people friendly to their design, they created consuls and praetors, and maintained the war for two years, until they had obtained the rights for which they struggled. The war was named theMarsian war, because that nation commenced the insurrection, and particularly on account ofPompaedius. These nations live generally in villages, nevertheless they are possessed of certain cities, some of which are at some little distance from the sea, asCorfinium,Sulmo,Maruvium, andTeatea the metropolis of theMarrucini. Others are on the coast, asAternum on thePicentine boundary, so named from the river [Aternus], which separates theVestini from theMarrucini. This river flows from the territory ofAmiternum and through theVestini, leaving on its right theMarrucini, who lie above thePeligni, [at the place where the river] is crossed by a bridge. The city, which bears the same name (viz.Aternum) belongs to theVestini, but its port is used in common both by thePeligni and theMarrucini. The bridge I have mentioned is about 24 stadia fromCorfinium. AfterAternum isOrton, a naval arsenal of theFrentani, andBuca, which belongs to the same people, and is conterminous with theApulianTeanum. †Ortonium is situated in the territory of theFrentani. It is rocky, and inhabited by banditti, who construct their dwellings of the wrecks of ships, and lead otherwise a savage life. † BetweenOrton andAternum is the riverSagrus, which separates theFrentani from thePeligni. FromPicenum to theApuli, named by the Greeks theDaunii, sailing round the coast, is a distance of about 490 stadia.
§ 5.4.3 Next in order afterLatium isCampania, which extends along theTyrrhenian sea; above it isSamnium, in the interior, extending as far as theFrentani andDaunii; and beyond are theDaunii, and the other nations as far as theStrait of Sicily. We shall in the first place speak ofCampania. FromSinuessa toMisenum the coast forms a vast gulf; beyond this is another gulf still larger, which they name the Crater. It is enclosed by the two promontories ofMisenum and theAthenaion. It is along the shores of these [two gulfs] that the whole ofCampania is situated. This plain is fertile above all others, and entirely surrounded by fruitful hills and the mountains of theSamnites and Osci.Antiochus says that this country was formerly inhabited by theOpici, and that these were calledAusones.Polybius appears to consider these as two people, for he says that theOpici andAusones inhabit the country around the Crater. Others, however, state that it was originally inhabited byOpici andAusones, but was afterwards seized on by a nation of theOsci, who were driven out by theCumaei, and these again by theTyrrheni. Thus the possession of the plain was much disputed on account of its great fertility. [They add that theTyrrheni] built there twelve cities, and named the metropolisCapua. But luxury having made them effeminate, in the same way that they had formerly been driven from the banks of thePo, they were now forced to abandon this country to theSamnites; who in their turn fell before the Romans. One proof of the fertility of this country is, that it produces the finest corn. I allude to the grain from which a groat is made superior to all kinds of rice, and to almost all other farinacious food. They say that some of the plains are cropped all the year round; twice with rye, the third time with panic, and occasionally a fourth time with vegetables. It is likewise from hence that the Romans procure their finest wines, theFalernian, the Statanian, and the Calenian. That ofSurrentum is now esteemed equal to these, it having been lately discovered that it can be kept to ripen. In addition to this, the whole country roundVenafrum, bordering on the plains, is rich in olives.
§ 5.4.4 The maritime cities, afterSinuessa, areLiternum, where is the sepulchral monument of the first of the twoScipios, surnamedAfricanus; it was here that he passed the last days of his life, having abandoned public affairs in disgust at the intrigues of certain opponents. A river of the same name flows by this city. In like manner theVulturnus bears the same name as the city founded on it, which comes next in order: this river flows throughVenafrum and the midst ofCampania. After these [cities] comesCumae, the most ancient settlement of theChalcidenses andCumaeans, for it is the oldest of all [the Greek cities] inSicily orItaly. The leaders of the expedition,Hippocles theCumaean andMegasthenes ofChalcis, having mutually agreed that one of the nations should have the management of the colony, and the other the honour of conferring upon it its own name. Hence at the present day it is namedCumae, while at the same time it is said to have been founded by theChalcidenses. At first this city was highly prosperous, as well as the Phlegraean plain, which mythology has made the scene of the adventures of the giants, for no other reason, as it appears, than because the fertility of the country had given rise to battles for its possession. Afterwards, however, theCampanians becoming masters of the city, inflicted much injustice on the inhabitants, and even violated their wives. Still, however, there remain numerous traces of the Grecian taste, their sanctuaries, and their customs. Some are of opinion thatCumae was so called from τὰ κύματα, the waves, the sea-coast near it being rocky and exposed. These people have excellent fisheries. On the shores of this gulf there is a scrubby forest, extending over numerous acres of parched and sandy land. This they call the Gallinarian wood. It was there that the admirals ofSextus Pompeius assembled their gangs ofpirates, at the time when he drewSicily into revolt.
§ 5.4.5 Near toCumae is the promontory ofMisenum, and between them is the Acherusian Lake, which is a muddy estuary of the sea. Having doubledMisenum, you come to a harbour at the very foot of the promontory. After this the shore runs inland, forming a deeply indented bay, on which areBaiae and the hot springs, much used, both as a fashionable watering-place, and for the cure of diseases. Contiguous toBaiae is theLucrine Lake, and within this the LakeAvernus, which converts into a peninsula the land stretching from the maritime district, situated between it andCumae, as far as CapeMisenum, for there is only an isthmus of a few stadia, across which a subterraneous road is cut [from the head of the gulf ofAvernus] toCumae and the sea [shore] on which it stands. Former writers, mingling fable with history, have applied toAvernus the expressions ofHomer in his Invocation of Departed Spirits, and relate that here formerly was an oracle of the dead, and that it was to this place thatUlysses came. However, this gulf ofAvernus is deep even near the shore, with an excellent entrance, and is both as to its size and nature a harbour; but it is not used, on account of theLucrine Gulf which lies before it, and is both large and somewhat shallow. TheAvernus is surrounded with steep hills which encompass the whole of it, with the exception of the entrance. These hills, now so beautifully cultivated were formerly covered with wild forests, gigantic and impenetrable, which overshadowed the gulf, imparting a feeling of superstitious awe. The inhabitants affirm that birds, flying over the lake, fall into the water, being stifled by the vapours rising from it, a phenomenon of allPlutonian localities. They believed, in fact, that this place was a Plutonium, around which theKimmerians used to dwell, and those who sailed into the place made sacrifice and propitiatory offerings to the infernal deities, as they were instructed by the priests who ministered at the place. There is here a spring of water near to the sea fit for drinking, from which, however, every one abstained, as they supposed it to be water from theStyx: [they thought likewise] that the oracle of the dead was situated some where here; and the hot springs near to theAcherusian Lake indicated the proximity ofPyriphlegethon.Ephorus, peopling this place with Kimmerii, tells us that they dwell in under-ground habitations, named by them Argillae, and that these communicate with one another by means of certain subterranean passages; and that they conduct strangers through them to the oracle, which is built far below the surface of the earth. They live on the mines together with the profits accruing from the oracle, and grants made to them by the king [of the country]. It was a traditional custom for the servants of the oracle never to behold the sun, and only to quit their caverns at night. It was on this account that the poet said, "On them theSun Deigns not to look with his beam-darting eye." (Odys. xi. 15). At last, however, these men were exterminated by one of the kings, the oracle having deceived him; but [addsEphorus] the oracle is still in existence, though removed to another place. Such were the myths related by our ancestors. But now that the wood surrounding theAvernus has been cut down byAgrippa, the lands built upon, and a subterranean passage cut fromAvernus toCumae, all these appear fables. PerhapsCocceius, who made this subterranean passage, wished to follow the practice of theKimmerians we have already described, or fancied that it was natural to this place that its roads should be made under-ground.
§ 5.4.6 TheLucrine gulf extends in breadth as far asBaiae; it is separated from the sea by a bank eight stadia in length, and the breadth of a carriage-way; this they say was constructed byHercules when he drove away theoxen ofGeryon. But as the wave covered its surface in stormy weather, rendering it difficult to pass on foot,Agrippa has repaired it. Small vessels can put into it, but it is useless as a harbour. It contains abundant oyster-beds. Some take this to be theAcherusian Lake, whileArtemidorus confounds it withAvernus. They say thatBaiae took its name fromBaius one of the companions ofUlysses, andMisenum fromMisenus. Beyond is the strand and city ofDicaearchia. Formerly it was nothing but a naval station of theCumaei. It was built on an eminence. But at the time of the war withHannibal, the Romans established a colony there, and changed its name intoPuteoli, [an appellation derived] from its wells; or, according to others, from the stench of its waters, the whole district from hence toBaiae andCumae being full of sulphur, fire, and hot-springs. Some too are of opinion that it was on this account [that the country about]Cumae was namedPhlegra, and that the fables of the giants struck down by thunderbolts owe their origin to these eruptions of fire and water. This city has become a place of extensive commerce, having artificially constructed harbours, which were much facilitated by the facile nature of the sand, which contains much gypsum, and will cement and consolidate thoroughly. For mixing this sand with chalk-stones they construct moles in the sea, thus forming bays along the open coast, in which the largest transport ships may safely ride. Immediately above the city lies the Forum-Vulcani, a plain surrounded with hills which seem to be on fire, having in many parts mouths emitting smoke, frequently accompanied by a terrible rumbling noise; the plain itself is full of drifted sulphur.
§ 5.4.7 AfterDicaearchia isNeapolis, a city of theCumaeans. At a later time it was re-colonised byChalcidians, and also by somePithecussaeans and Athenians, and hence, for this reason, was calledNeapolis. A monument ofParthenope, one of theSirens, is pointed out inNeapolis, and in accordance with an oracle a gymnastic contest is celebrated there. But at a still later time, as the result of a dissension, they admitted some of theCampani as fellow-inhabitants, and thus they were forced to treat their worst enemies as their best friends, now that they had alienated their proper friends. This is disclosed by the names of their demarchs, for the earliest names are Greek only, whereas the later are Greek mixed withCampanian. And very many traces of Greek culture are preserved there — gymnasia, ephebeia, phratriae, and Greek names of things, although the people are Romans. And at the present time a sacred contest is celebrated among them every four years, in music as well as gymnastics; it lasts for several days, and vies with the pmost famous of those celebrated in Greece. Here, too, there is a tunnel — the mountain betweenDicaearchia andNeapolis having been tunneled like the one leading toCumae, and a road having been opened up for a distance of many stadia that is wide enough to allow teams going in opposite directions to pass each other. And windows have been cut out at many places, and thus the light of day is brought down from the surface of the mountain along shafts that are of considerable depth. Furthermore,Neapolis has springs of hot water and bathing-establishments that are not inferior to those atBaiae, although it is far short ofBaiae in the number of people, for atBaiae, where palace on palace has been built, one after another, a new city has arisen, not inferior toDicaearchia. And greater vogue is given to the Greek mode of life atNeapolis by the people who withdraw thither fromRome for the sake of rest — I mean the class who have made their livelihood by training the young, or still others who, because of old age or infirmity, long to live in relaxation; and some of the Romans, too, taking delight in this way of living and observing the great number of men of the same culture as themselves sojourning there, gladly fall in love with the place and make it their permanent abode.
§ 5.4.8 Next afterNeapolis comes theHeracleian Fortress, with a promontory which runs out into the sea and so admirably catches the breezes of the southwest wind that it makes the settlement a healthful place to live in. Both this settlement and the one next after it,Pompaia (past which flows the RiverSarnus), were once held by theOsci; then, by theTyrrheni and thePelasgi; and after that, by theSamnitae; but they, too, were ejected from the places.Pompaia, on the RiverSarnus — a river which both takes the cargoes inland and sends them out to sea — is the port-town ofNola,Nuceria, andAcherrae (a place with name like that of the settlementCremona). Above these places lies Mt.Vesuvius, which, save for its summit, has dwellings all round, on farm-lands that are absolutely beautiful. As for the summit, a considerable part of it is flat, but all of it is unfruitful, and looks ash-coloured, and it shows pore-like cavities in masses of rock that are soot-coloured on the surface, these masses of rock looking as though they had been eaten out by fire; and hence one might infer that in earlier times this district was on fire and had craters of fire, and then, because the fuel gave out, was quenched. Perhaps, too, this is the cause of the fruitfulness of the country all round the mountain; just as atCatana, it is said, that part of the country which had been covered with ash-dust from the hot ashes carried up into the air by the fire ofAetna made the land suited to the vine; for it contains the substance that fattens both the soil which is burnt out and that which produces the fruits; so then, when it acquired plenty of fat, it was suited to burning out, as is the case with all sulphur-like substances, and then when it had been evaporated and quenched and reduced to ash-dust, it passed into a state of fruitfulness. Next afterPompaia comesSurrentum, a city of theCampani, whence theAthenaeum juts forth into the sea, which some call the Cape of theSirenussae. There is asanctuary ofAthene, built byOdysseus, on the tip of the Cape. It is only a short voyage from here across to the island ofCapreae; and after doubling the cape you come to desert, rocky isles, which are called theSirens. On the side of the Cape towardSurrentum people show you a kind of temple, and offerings dedicated there long ago, because the people in the neighbourhood hold the place in honour. Here, then, the gulf that is called the "Crater" comes to an end, being marked off by two capes that face the south, namely,Misenum andAthenaeum. And the whole of the gulf is garnished, in part by the cities which I have just mentioned, and in part by the residences and plantations, which, since they intervene in unbroken succession, present the appearance of a single city.
§ 5.4.9 The island ofProchyta lies off CapeMisenum, and it is a fragment broken off ofPithecussae.Pithecussae was once settled byEretrians and alsoChalcidians, who, although they had prospered there on account of the fruitfulness of the soil and on account of the gold mines, forsook the island as the result of a quarrel; later on they were also driven out of the island by earthquakes, and by eruptions of fire, sea, and hot waters; for the island has "fistulas" of this sort, and it was these that caused also the people sent thither byHiero the tyrant ofSyracuse to forsake the island and the fortress they had erected there; and then the Neapolitans came over and took possession. Hence, also, the myth according to whichTyphon lies beneath this island, and when he turns his body the flames and the waters, and sometimes even small islands containing boiling water, spout forth. But whatPindar says is more plausible, since he starts with the actual phenomena; for this whole channel, beginning at theCumaean country and extending as far asSicily, is full of fire, and has caverns deep down in the earth that form a single whole, connecting not only with one another but also with the mainland; and therefore, not onlyAetna clearly has such a character as it is reported by all to have, but also theLipari Islands, and the districts round aboutDicaearchia,Neapolis, andBaiae, and the island ofPithecussae. This, I say, isPindar's thought when he says thatTyphon lies beneath the whole region: "Now, however, bothSicily and the sea-fenced cliffs beyondCumae press hard upon his shaggy breast." AndTimaeus, also, says that many marvellous things are told by the ancients aboutPithecussae, and that only shortly before his own time the hill calledEpopeus, in the centre of the island, on being shaken by earthquakes, cast forth fire and shoved the part between it and the sea back to the open sea; and the part of the land that had been burned to ashes, on being lifted high into the air, crashed down again upon the island like a whirlwind; and the sea retreated for three stadia, but not long after retreating turned back and with its reverse current deluged the island; and consequently, the fire in the island was quenched, but the noise was such that the people on the mainland fled from the coast intoCampania. The hot springs in the island are thought to cure those who have gall-stones.Capreae had two small towns in ancient times, though later on only one. The Neapolitans took possession of this island too; and although they lostPithecussae in war, they got it back again,Augustus Caesar giving it to them, though he appropriatedCapreae to himself personally and erected buildings on it. Such, then, are the seaboard cities ofCampania and the islands that lie off it.
§ 5.4.10 In the interior, take firstCapua: It is the capital city — a "capital" in reality, as the etymology of its name implies, for in comparison with it all the rest might be regarded as only small towns, exceptTeanumSidicinum, which is indeed a noteworthy city. It, too, lies on theAppian Way, and so do the three cities which, among the rest, lead from it toBrentesium, namely,Calatia,Caudium , andBeneventum. ButCasilinum is situated towardsRome, on the RiverVulturnus; it was here that five hundred and forty of thePraenestini held out againstHannibal — then at the height of his strength — for so long that, by reason of famine, a "medimnus" was sold for two hundred "drachmae," and the man who sold it died of hunger, whereas the man who bought it escaped with his life. And whenHannibal saw them sowing turnips near the wall, he wondered, and with reason, at their long-suffering — that they expected to hold out long enough for the turnips to get ripe; and in fact they all survived, it is said, except a few who perished either because of hunger or in the battles.
§ 5.4.11 But in addition to the cities aforesaid, the following (to which I have adverted before) are alsoCampanian cities —Cales andTeanumSidicinum, whose territories are separated by the two temples ofFortune situated on either side of theVia Latina; and so areSuessula,Atella,Nola,Nuceria,Acherrae,Abella, and other settlements (some of which are said to beSamnite) that are still smaller than these. As for theSamnitae: In earlier times they made expeditions even as far as that part of theLatin country which is aboutArdea, and then, after that, ravagedCampania itself, and therefore they must have possessed considerable power (indeed, theCampani, since they were already schooled in the obedience of other despots, quickly submitted to the new commands); but now they have been completely worn out — first by others and last of all bySulla, who became dictator of the Romans; for when, on putting down the insurrection of the Italiotes by many battles, he saw that theSamnitae, almost alone, were holding together and, in like manner as before, were on the border, ready actually to march againstRome itself, he joined battle with them before the walls; and some of them he cut down in the battle (for he had ordered that none be taken alive), while the rest, who had flung their arms (about three or four thousand men, it is said) he brought down to the Villa Publica in theCampus Martius and imprisoned; three days later, however, he let soldiers loose upon them and thus slaughtered them all; and further, he would not stop making proscriptions until either he had destroyed allSamnitae of importance or banished them fromItaly. And to those who found fault with him for such excessive wrath he said he had realised from experience that not a Roman could ever live in peace so long as theSamnitae held together as a separate people. And verily their cities have now come to be mere villages (though some have utterly vanished), I meanBovianum,Aesernia, Panna,Telesia (close toVenafrum), and others like them. No one of these deserves to be regarded as a city, but I, for my part, am thus going into detail, within due bounds, because of the glory and power ofItaly. Beneventum, however, has held up very well, and so hasVenusia.
§ 5.4.12 Concerning theSamnitae there is another story current to this effect: TheSabini, since they had long been at war with theOmbrici, vowed (just as some of the Greeks do) to dedicate everything that was produced that year; and, on winning the victory, they partly sacrificed and partly dedicated all that was produced; then a dearth ensued, and some one said that they ought to have dedicated the babies too; this they did, and devoted toMars all the children born that year; and these children, when grown to manhood, they sent away as colonists, and abull led the way; and when thebull lay down to rest in the land of theOpici (who, as it chanced, were living only in villages), theSabini ejected them and settled on the spot, and, in accordance with the utterance of their seers, slaughtered thebull as a sacrifice toMars who had given it for a guide. It is reasonable to suppose therefore that their name "Sabelli" is a nickname derived from the name of their forefathers, while their name "Samnitae" (the Greeks say "Saunitai") is due to a different cause. Some say, moreover, that a colony of Laconians joined theSamnitae, and that for this reason theSamnitae actually became philhellenes, and that some of them were even called "Pitanatae." But it is thought that theTarantini simply fabricated this, to flatter, and at the same time to win the friendship of, a powerful people on their borders; because, on a time, theSamnitae were wont to send forth an army of as many as eighty thousand infantry and eight thousand cavalry. And they say that among theSamnitae there is a law which is indeed honourable and conducive to noble qualities; for they are not permitted to give their daughters in marriage to whom they wish, but every year ten virgins and ten young men, the noblest of each sex, are selected, and, of these, the first choice of the virgins is given to the first choice of the young men, and the second to the second, and so on to the end; but if the young man who wins the meed of honour changes and turns out bad, they disgrace him and take away from him the woman given him. Next after theSamnitae come theHirpini, and they too areSamnitae; they got their name from thewolf that led the way for their colony (for "hirpus" is what theSamnitae call thewolf); and their territory adjoins that of thoseLeucani who live in the interior. So much, then, for theSamnitae.
§ 5.4.13 As for theCampani, it was their lot, because of the fertility of their country, to enjoy in equal degree both evil things and good. For they were so extravagant that they would invite gladiators, in pairs, to dinner, regulating the number by the importance of the dinners; and when, on their instant submission toHannibal, they received his army into winter-quarters, the soldiers became so effeminate because of the pleasures afforded them thatHannibal said that, although victor, he was in danger of falling into the hands of his foes, because the soldiers he had got back were not his men, but only women. But when the Romans got the mastery, they brought them to their sense by many severe lessons, and, last of all, portioned out to Roman settlers a part of the land. Now, however, they are living in prosperity, being of one mind with the new settlers, and they preserve their old-time reputation, in respect to both the size of their city and the high quality of its men. AfterCampania, and theSamnite country (as far as theFrentani), on theTyrrhenian sea dwells the tribe of thePicentini, a small offshoot of thosePicentini who dwell on theAdriatic, which has been transplanted by the Romans to the Poseidonian Gulf; this gulf is now called the Paestan Gulf; and the city ofPoseidonia, which is situated in the centre of the gulf, is now calledPaestus. TheSybaritae, it is true, had erected fortifications on the sea, but the settlers removed them farther inland; later on, however, theLeucani took the city away from theSybaritae, and, in turn, the Romans took it away from theLeucani. But the city is rendered unhealthy by a river that spreads out into marshes in the neighbourhood. Between theSirenussae andPoseidonia lies Marcina, a city founded by theTyrrheni and now inhabited bySamnitae. From here toPompaia, by way ofNuceria, the distance across the isthmus is not more than one hundred and twenty stadia. The country of thePicentes extends as far as the RiverSilaris, which separates the oldCampania from this country. In regard to this river, writers report the following as a special characteristic, that although its water is potable, any plant that is let down into it turns to stone, though it keeps its colour and its shape.Picentia first belonged to thePicentes, as metropolis, but at the present time they live only in villages, having been driven away by the Romans because they had made common cause withHannibal. And instead of doing military service, they were at that time appointed to serve the State as couriers and letter-carriers (as were also, for the same reasons, both theLeucani and theBrettii); and for the sake of keeping watch over thePicentes the Romans fortifiedSalernum against them, a city situated only a short distance above the sea. The distance from theSirenussae to theSilaris is two hundred and sixty stadia.
§ 6.1.1 Leucania: After the mouth of theSilaris one comes toLeucania, and to the sanctuary of theArgoan Hera, built byJason, and near by, within fifty stadia, toPoseidonia. Thence, sailing out past the gulf, one comes toLeucosia, an island, from which it is only a short voyage across to the continent. The island is named after one of theSirens, who was cast ashore here after theSirens had flung themselves, as the myth has it, into the depths of the sea. In front of the island lies that promontory which is opposite theSirenussae and with them forms the Poseidonian Gulf. On doubling this promontory one comes immediately to another gulf, in which there is a city which was called "Hyele" by thePhocaeans who founded it, and by others "Ele," after a certain spring, but is called by the men of today "Elea." This is the native city ofParmenides andZeno, thePythagorean philosophers. It is my opinion that not only through the influence of these men but also in still earlier times the city was well governed; and it was because of this good government that the people not only held their own against theLeucani and thePoseidoniatae, but even returned victorious, although they were inferior to them both in extent of territory and in population. At any rate, they are compelled, on account of the poverty of their soil, to busy themselves mostly with the sea and to establish factories for the salting of fish, and other such industries. According toAntiochus, after the capture ofPhocaea byHarpagus, the general ofCyrus, all thePhocaeans who could do so embarked with their entire families on their light boats and, under the leadership ofCreontiades, sailed first toCyrnus andMassalia, but when they were beaten off from those places foundedElea. Some, however, say that the city took its name from the River Elees. It is about two hundred stadia distant fromPoseidonia. AfterElea comes the promontory ofPalinurus. Off the territory ofElea are two islands, theOinotrides, which have anchoring-places. AfterPalinurus comesPyxus — a cape, harbor, and river, for all three have the same name.Pyxus was peopled with new settlers byMicythus, the ruler of theMessene inSicily, but all the settlers except a few sailed away again. AfterPyxus comes another gulf, and alsoLaus — a river and city; it is the last of theLeucanian cities, lying only a short distance above the sea, is a colony of theSybaritae, and the distance thither fromElea is four hundred stadia. The whole voyage along the coast ofLeucania is six hundred and fifty stadia. NearLaus is the hero-sanctuary ofDraco, one of the companions ofOdysseus, in regard to which the following oracle was given out to the Italiotes: "Much people will one day perish about LaianDraco. 6 And the oracle came true, for, deceived by it, the peoples who made campaigns againstLaus, that is, the Greek inhabitants ofItaly, met disaster at the hands of theLeucani.
§ 6.1.2 These, then, are the places on theTyrrhenian seaboard that belong to theLeucani. As for the other sea, they could not reach it at first; in fact, the Greeks who held the Gulf ofTarentum were in control there. Before the Greeks came, however, theLeucani were as yet not even in existence, and the regions were occupied by theChones and theOinotri. But after theSamnitae had grown considerably in power, and had ejected theChones and theOinotri, and had settled a colony ofLeucani in this portion ofItaly, while at the same time the Greeks were holding possession of both seaboards as far as theStrait, the Greeks and the barbarians carried on war with one another for a long time. Then the tyrants ofSicily, and afterwards theCarthaginians, at one time at war with the Romans for the possession ofSicily and at another for the possession ofItaly itself, maltreated all the peoples in this part of the world, but especially the Greeks. Later on, beginning from the time of theTrojan War, the Greeks had taken away from the earlier inhabitants much of the interior country also, and indeed had increased in power to such an extent that they called this part ofItaly, together withSicily,Magna Graecia. But today all parts of it, exceptTaras,Rhegium, andNeapolis, have become completely barbarized, and some parts have been taken and are held by theLeucani and theBrettii, and others by theCampani — that is, nominally by theCampani but in truth by the Romans, since theCampani themselves have become Romans. However, the man who busies himself with the description of the earth must needs speak, not only of the facts of the present, but also sometimes of the facts of the past, especially when they are notable. As for theLeucani, I have already spoken of those whose territory borders on theTyrrhenian sea, while those who hold the interior are the people who live above the Gulf ofTarentum. But the latter, and theBrettii, and theSamnitae themselves (the progenitors of these peoples) have so utterly deteriorated that it is difficult even to distinguish their several settlements; and the reason is that no common organization longer endures in any one of the separate tribes; and their characteristic differences in language, armor, dress, and the like, have completely disappeared; and, besides, their settlements, severally and in detail, are wholly without repute.
§ 6.1.3 Accordingly, without making distinctions between them, I shall only tell in a general way what I have learned about the peoples who live in the interior, I mean theLeucani and such of theSamnitae as are their next neighbors.Petelia, then, is regarded as the metropolis of theChones, and has been rather populous down to the present day. It was founded byPhiloctetes after he, as the result of a political quarrel, had fled fromMeliboea. It has so strong a position by nature that theSamnitae once fortified it against theThurii. And the oldCrimisa, which is near the same regions, was also founded byPhiloctetes.Apollodorus, in his work On Ships, in mentioningPhiloctetes, says that, according to some, whenPhiloctetes arrived at the territory ofCroton, he colonized the promontoryCrimisa, and, in the interior above it, the cityChone, from which the Chonians of that district took their name, and that some of his companions whom he had sent forth withAegestes theTrojan to the region ofEryx inSicily fortifiedAegesta. Moreover,Grumentum and Vertinae are in the interior, and so are Calasarna and some other small settlements, until we arrive atVenusia, a notable city; but I think that this city and those that follow in order after it as one goes towardsCampania areSamnite cities. BeyondThurii lies also the country that is calledTauriana. TheLeucani areSamnite in race, but upon mastering thePoseidoniatae and their allies in war they took possession of their cities. At all other times, it is true, their government was democratic, but in times of war they were wont to choose a king from those who held magisterial offices. But now they are Romans.
§ 6.1.4 The seaboard that comes next afterLeucania, as far as theSicilian Strait and for a distance of thirteen hundred and fifty stadia, is occupied by theBrettii. According toAntiochus, in his treatise OnItaly, this territory (and this is the territory which he says he is describing) was once calledItaly, although in earlier times it was calledOinotria. And he designates as its boundaries, first, on theTyrrhenian sea, the same boundary that I have assigned to the country of theBrettii — the RiverLaus; and secondly, on theSicilian Sea,Metapontium. But as for the country of theTarantini, which borders onMetapontium, he names it as outside ofItaly, and calls its inhabitantsIapyges. And at a time more remote, according to him, the names "Italians" and "Oinotrians" were applied only to the people who lived this side the isthmus in the country that slopes toward theSicilian Strait. The isthmus itself, one hundred and sixty stadia in width, lies between two gulfs — theHipponiate (whichAntiochus has called Napetine) and theScylletic. The coasting-voyage round the country comprised between the isthmus and theStrait is two thousand stadia. But after that, he says, the name of "Italy" and that of the "Oinotrians" was further extended as far as the territory ofMetapontium and that of Seiris, for, he adds, theChones, a well-regulatedOinotrian tribe, had taken up their abode in these regions and had called the landChone. NowAntiochus had spoken only in a rather simple and antiquated way, without making any distinctions between theLeucani and theBrettii. In the first place,Leucania lies between theTyrrhenian andSicilian coastlines, the former coastline from the RiverSilaris as far asLaus, and the latter, fromMetapontium as far asThurii; in the second place, on the mainland, from the country of theSamnitae as far as the isthmus which extends fromThurii to Cerilli (a city nearLaus), the isthmus is three hundred stadia in width. But theBrettii are situated beyond theLeucani; they live on a peninsula, but this peninsula includes another peninsula which has the isthmus that extends fromScylletium to the Hipponiate Gulf. The name of the tribe was given to it by theLeucani, for theLeucani call all revolters "brettii." TheBrettii revolted, so it is said (at first they merely tended flocks for theLeucani, and then, by reason of the indulgence of their masters, began to act as free men), at the time when Dion made his expedition againstDionysius and aroused all peoples against all others. So much, then, for my general description of theLeucani and theBrettii.
§ 6.1.5 The next city afterLaus belongs toBrettium, and is namedTemesa, though the men of today call itTempsa; it was founded by theAusones, but later on was settled also by theAitolians under the leadership ofThoas; but theAitolians were ejected by theBrettii, and then theBrettii were crushed byHannibal and by the Romans. NearTemesa, and thickly shaded with wild olive trees, is the hero-sanctuary ofPolites, one of the companions ofOdysseus, who was treacherously slain by the barbarians, and for that reason became so exceedingly wroth against the country that, in accordance with an oracle, the people of the neighborhood collected tribute for him; and hence, also, the popular saying applied to those who are merciless, that they are "beset by the hero ofTemesa." But when theEpizephyrian Locrians captured the city,Euthymus, the pugilist, so the story goes, entered the lists againstPolites, defeated him in the fight and forced him to release the natives from the tribute. People say thatHomer has in mind thisTemesa, not theTamassus inCyprus (the name is spelled both ways), when he says "toTemesa, in quest of copper." And in fact copper mines are to be seen in the neighborhood, although now they have been abandoned. NearTemesa isTerina, whichHannibal destroyed, because he was unable to guard it, at the time when he had taken refuge inBrettium itself. Then comesConsentia, the metropolis of theBrettii; and a little above this city isPandosia, a strong fortress, near whichAlexander theMolossian was killed. He, too, was deceived by the oracle atDodona, which bade him be on his guard againstAcheron andPandosia; for places which bore these names were pointed out to him inThesprotia, but he came to his end here inBrettium. Now the fortress has three summits, and the RiverAcheron flows past it. And there was another oracle that helped to deceive him: "Three-hilledPandosia, much people shalt thou kill one day; for he thought that the oracle clearly meant the destruction of the enemy, not of his own people. It is said thatPandosia was once the capital of theOinotrian Kings. AfterConsentia comesHipponium, which was founded by theLocrians. Later on, theBrettii were in possession ofHipponium, but the Romans took it away from them and changed its name toVibo Valentia. And because the country round aboutHipponium has luxuriant meadows abounding in flowers, people have believed thatKore used to come hither fromSicily to gather flowers; and consequently it has become the custom among the women ofHipponium to gather flowers and to weave them into garlands, so that on festival days it is disgraceful to wear bought garlands.Hipponium has also a naval station, which was built long ago byAgathocles, the tyrant of theSiciliotes, when he made himself master of the city. Thence one sails to the Harbor ofHeracles, which is the point where the headlands ofItaly near theStrait begin to turn towards the west. And on this voyage one passesMedma, a city of the sameLocrians aforementioned, which has the same name as a great fountain there, and possesses a naval station near by, calledEmporium. Near it is also theMetaurus River, and a mooring-place bearing the same name. Off this coast lie the islands of theLiparaei, at a distance of two hundred stadia from theStrait. According to some, they are the islands ofAeolus, of whom the Poet makes mention in theOdyssey. They are seven in number and are all within view both fromSicily and from the continent nearMedma. But I shall tell about them when I discussSicily. After theMetaurus River comes a secondMetaurus. Next after this river comesScyllaion, a lofty rock which forms a peninsula, its isthmus being low and affording access to ships on both sides. This isthmusAnaxilaus, the tyrant of theRhegini, fortified against theTyrrheni, building a naval station there, and thus deprived thepirates of their passage through thestrait. ForCaenys, too, is near by, being two hundred and fifty stadia distant fromMedma; it is the last cape, and with the cape on theSicilian side,Pelorias, forms the narrows of theStrait. CapePelorias is one of the three capes that make the island triangular, and it bends towards the summer sunrise, just asCaenys bends towards the west, each one thus turning away from the other in the opposite direction. Now the length of the narrow passage of theStrait fromCaenys as far as the Poseidonium, or theColumna Rheginorum, is about six stadia, while the shortest passage across is slightly more; and the distance is one hundred stadia from theColumna toRhegium, where theStrait begins to widen out, as one proceeds towards the east, towards the outer sea, the sea which is called theSicilian Sea.
§ 6.1.6 Rhegium was founded by theChalcidians who, it is said, in accordance with an oracle, were dedicated, one man out of every tenChalcidians, toApollo, because of a dearth of crops, but later on emigrated hither fromDelphi, taking with them still others from their home. But according toAntiochus, theZanclaeans sent for theChalcidians and appointed Antimnestus their founder-in-chief. To this colony also belonged the refugees of thePeloponnesianMessenians who had been defeated by the men of the opposing faction. These men were unwilling to be punished by theLacedemonians for the violation of the maidens which took place atLimnae, though they were themselves guilty of the outrage done to the maidens, who had been sent there for a religious rite and had also killed those who came to their aid. So the refugees, after withdrawing toMacistus, sent a deputation to the oracle of the god to find fault withApollo andArtemis if such was to be their fate in return for their trying to avenge those gods, and also to enquire how they, now utterly ruined, might be saved.Apollo bade them go forth with theChalcidians toRhegium, and to be grateful to his sister; for, he added, they were not ruined, but saved, inasmuch as they were surely not to perish along with their native land, which would be captured a little later by theSpartans. They obeyed; and therefore the rulers of theRhegini down toAnaxilas were always appointed from the stock of theMessenians. According toAntiochus, theSiceli andMorgetes had in early times inhabited the whole of this region, but later on, being ejected by theOinotrians, had crossed over intoSicily. According to some,Morgantium also took its name from theMorgetes ofRhegium. The city ofRhegium was once very powerful and had many dependencies in the neighborhood; and it was always a fortified outpost threatening the island, not only in earlier times but also recently, in our own times, whenSextus Pompeius causedSicily to revolt. It was namedRhegium, either, asAeschylus says, because of the calamity that had befallen this region, for, as both he and others state,Sicily was once "rent" from the continent by earthquakes, "and so from this fact," he adds, "it is calledRhegium." They infer from the occurrences aboutAetna and in other parts ofSicily, and inLipara and in the islands about it, and also in thePithecussae and the whole of the coast of the adjacent continent, that it is not unreasonable to suppose that the rending actually took place. Now at the present time the earth about theStrait, they say, is but seldom shaken by earthquakes, because the orifices there, through which the fire is blown up and the red-hot masses and the waters are ejected, are open. At that time, however, the fire that was smouldering beneath the earth, together with the wind, produced violent earthquakes, because the passages to the surface were all blocked up, and the regions thus heaved up yielded at last to the force of the blasts of wind, were rent asunder, and then received the sea that was on either side, both here and between the other islands in that region. And, in fact,Prochyte and thePithecussae are fragments broken off from the continent, as alsoCapreae,Leucosia, theSirenes, and theOinotrides. Again, there are islands which have arisen from the high seas, a thing that even now happens in many places; for it is more plausible that the islands in the high seas were heaved up from the deeps, whereas it is more reasonable to think that those lying off the promontories and separated merely by a strait from the mainland have been rent therefrom. However, the question which of the two explanations is true, whetherRhegium got its name on account of this or on account of its fame (for theSamnitae might have called it by theLatin word for "royal," because their progenitors had shared in the government with the Romans and used theLatin language to a considerable extent), is open to investigation. Be this as it may, it was a famous city, and not only founded many cities but also produced many notable men, some notable for their excellence as statesmen and others for their learning; nevertheless,Dionysius demolished it, they say, on the charge that when he asked for a girl in marriage they proffered the daughter of the public executioner; but his son restored a part of the old city and called itPhoebia. Now in the time ofPyrrhus the garrison of theCampani broke the treaty and destroyed most of the inhabitants, and shortly before theMarsic war much of the settlement was laid in ruins by earthquakes; butAugustus Caesar, after ejectingPompeius fromSicily, seeing that the city was in want of population, gave it some men from his expeditionary forces as new settlers, and it is now fairly populous.
§ 6.1.7 As one sails fromRhegium towards the east, and at a distance of fifty stadia, one comes to CapeLeucopetra (so called from its color), in which, it is said, theApennine Mountain terminates. Then comesHeracleium, which is the last cape ofItaly and inclines towards the south; for on doubling it one immediately sails with the southwest wind as far as CapeIapygia, and then veers off, always more and more, towards the northwest in the direction of theIonian Gulf. AfterHeracleium comes a cape belonging toLocris, which is calledZephyrium; its harbor is exposed to the winds that blow from the west, and hence the name. Then comes the cityLocri Epizephyrii, a colony of theLocri who live on theCrisaean Gulf, which was led out byEvanthes only a little while after the founding ofCroton andSyracuse.Ephorus is wrong in calling it a colony of theOpuntii Locri. However, they lived only three or four years atZephyrium, and then moved the city to its present site, with the cooperation ofSyracusans [for at the same time the latter, among whom . . .] And atZephyrium there is a spring, called Locria, where theLocri first pitched camp. The distance fromRhegium toLocri is six hundred stadia. The city is situated on the brow of a hill called Epopis.
§ 6.1.8 TheLocri Epizephyrii are believed to have been the first people to use written laws. After they had lived under good laws for a very long time,Dionysius, on being banished from the country of theSyracusans, abused them most lawlessly of all men. For he would sneak into the bed-chambers of the girls after they had been dressed up for their wedding, and lie with them before their marriage; and he would gather together the girls who were ripe for marriage, let loose doves with cropped wings upon them in the midst of the banquets, and then bid the girls waltz around unclad, and also bid some of them, shod with sandals that were not mates (one high and the other low), chase the doves around — all for the sheer indecency of it. However, he paid the penalty after he went back toSicily again to resume his government; for theLocri broke up his garrison, set themselves free, and thus became masters of his wife and children. These children were his two daughters, and the younger of his two sons (who was already a lad), for the other,Apollocrates, was helping his father to effect his return toSicily by force of arms. And althoughDionysius — both himself and theTarantini on his behalf — earnestly begged theLocri to release the prisoners on any terms they wished, they would not give them up; instead, they endured a siege and a devastation of their country. But they poured out most of their wrath upon his daughters, for they first made them prostitutes and then strangled them, and then, after burning their bodies, ground up the bones and sank them in the sea. NowEphorus, in his mention of the written legislation of theLocri which was drawn up byZaleucus from theCretan, theLaconian, and theAreopagite usages, says thatZaleucus was among the first to make the following innovation — that whereas before his time it had been left to the judges to determine the penalties for the several crimes, he defined them in the laws, because he held that the opinions of the judges about the same crimes would not be the same, although they ought to be the same. AndEphorus goes on to commendZaleucus for drawing up the laws on contracts in simpler language. And he says that theThurii, who later on wished to excel theLocri in precision, became more famous, to be sure, but morally inferior; for, he adds, it is not those who in their laws guard against all the wiles of false accusers that have good laws, but those who abide by laws that are laid down in simple language. AndPlato has said as much — that where there are very many laws, there are also very many lawsuits and corrupt practices, just as where there are many physicians, there are also likely to be many diseases.
§ 6.1.9 TheHalex River, which marks the boundary between theRhegian and theLocrian territories, passes out through a deep ravine; and a peculiar thing happens there in connection with the grasshoppers, that although those on theLocrian bank sing, the others remain mute. As for the cause of this, it is conjectured that on the latter side the region is so densely shaded that the grasshoppers, being wet with dew, cannot expand their membranes, whereas those on the sunny side have dry and horn-like membranes and therefore can easily produce their song. And people used to show inLocri a statue ofEunomus, the cithara-bard, with a locust seated on the cithara.Timaeus says thatEunomus andAriston ofRhegium were once contesting with each other at thePythian games and fell to quarrelling about the casting of the lots; soAriston begged theDelphians to cooperate with him, for the reason that his ancestors belonged to the god and that the colony had been sent forth from there; and althoughEunomus said that theRhegini had absolutely no right even to participate in the vocal contests, since in their country even the grasshoppers, the sweetest-voiced of all creatures, were mute,Ariston was none the less held in favor and hoped for the victory; and yetEunomus gained the victory and set up the aforesaid image in his native land, because during the contest, when one of the chords broke, a grasshopper lit on his cithara and supplied the missing sound. The interior above these cities is held by theBrettii; here is the city Mamertium, and also the forest that produces the best pitch, theBrettian. This forest is calledSila, is both well wooded and well watered, and is seven hundred stadia in length.
§ 6.1.10 AfterLocri comes theSagra, a river which has a feminine name. On its banks are the altars of theDioscuri, near which ten thousandLocri, withRhegini, clashed with one hundred and thirty thousandCrotoniates and gained the victory — an occurrence which gave rise, it is said, to the proverb we use with incredulous people, "Truer than the result atSagra." And some have gone on to add the fable that the news of the result was reported on the same day to the people at theOlympia when the games were in progress, and that the speed with which the news had come was afterwards verified. This misfortune of theCrotoniates is said to be the reason why their city did not endure much longer, so great was the multitude of men who fell in the battle. After theSagra comes a city founded by theAchaeans,Caulonia, formerly called Aulonia, because of the glen which lies in front of it. It is deserted, however, for those who held it were driven out by the barbarians toSicily and founded theCaulonia there. After this city comesScylletium, a colony of theAthenians who were withMenestheus (and now calledScylacium). Though theCrotoniates held it,Dionysius included it within the boundaries of theLocri. TheScylletic Gulf, which, with theHipponiate Gulf forms the aforementioned isthmus, is named after the city.Dionysius undertook also to build a wall across the isthmus when he made war upon theLeucani, on the pretext, indeed, that it would afford security to the people inside the isthmus from the barbarians outside, but in truth because he wished to break the alliance which the Greeks had with one another, and thus command with impunity the people inside; but the people outside came in and prevented the undertaking.
§ 6.1.11 AfterScylletium comes the territory of theCrotoniates, and three capes of theIapyges; and after these, theLacinium, a sanctuary ofHera, which at one time was rich and full of dedicated offerings. As for the distances by sea, writers give them without satisfactory clearness, except that, in a general way,Polybius gives the distance from thestrait toLacinium as two thousand three hundred stadia, and the distance thence across to CapeIapygia as seven hundred. This point is called the mouth of theTarantine Gulf. As for the gulf itself, the distance around it by sea is of considerable length, two hundred and forty miles, as the Chorographer says, butArtemidorus says three hundred and eighty for a man well-girded, although he falls short of the real breadth of the mouth of the gulf by as much. The gulf faces the winter-sunrise; and it begins at CapeLacinium, for, on doubling it, one immediately comes to the cities of theAchaeans, which, except that of theTarantini, no longer exist, and yet, because of the fame of some of them, are worthy of rather extended mention.
§ 6.1.12 The first city isCroton, within one hundred and fifty stadia from theLacinium; and then comes the RiverAesarus, and a harbor, and another river, theNeaethus. TheNeaethus got its name, it is said, from what occurred there: Certain of theAchaeans who had strayed from theTrojan fleet put in there and disembarked for an inspection of the region, and when theTrojan women who were sailing with them learned that the boats were empty of men, they set fire to the boats, for they were weary of the voyage, so that the men remained there of necessity, although they at the same time noticed that the soil was very fertile. And immediately several other groups, on the strength of their racial kinship, came and imitated them, and thus arose many settlements, most of which took their names from theTrojans; and also a river, theNeaethus, took its appellation from the aforementioned occurrence. According toAntiochus, when the god told theAchaeans to foundCroton,Myscellus departed to inspect the place, but when he saw thatSybaris was already founded — having the same name as the river near by — he judged thatSybaris was better; at all events, he questioned the god again when he returned whether it would be better to found this instead ofCroton, and the god replied to him (Myscellus was a hunchback as it happened): "Myscellus, short of back, in searching else outside thy track, thou hunt'st for morsels only; 'tis right that what one giveth thee thou do approve;" andMyscellus came back and foundedCroton, having as an associateArchias, the founder ofSyracuse, who happened to sail up while on his way to foundSyracuse. TheIapyges used to live atCroton in earlier times, asEphorus says. And the city is reputed to have cultivated warfare and athletics; at any rate, in oneOlympian festival the seven men who took the lead over all others in the stadium-race were allCrotoniates, and therefore the saying "The last of theCrotoniates was the first among all other Greeks" seems reasonable. And this, it is said, is what gave rise to the other proverb, "more healthful thanCroton," the belief being that the place contains something that tends to health and bodily vigor, to judge by the multitude of its athletes. Accordingly, it had a very large number ofOlympic victors, although it did not remain inhabited a long time, on account of the ruinous loss of its citizens who fell in such great numbers at the RiverSagra. And its fame was increased by the large number of itsPythagorean philosophers, and byMilo, who was the most illustrious of athletes, and also a companion ofPythagoras, who spent a long time in the city. It is said that once, at the common mess of the philosophers, when a pillar began to give way,Milo slipped in under the burden and saved them all, and then drew himself from under it and escaped. And it is probably because he relied upon this same strength that he brought on himself the end of his life as reported by some writers; at any rate, the story is told that once, when he was travelling through a deep forest, he strayed rather far from the road, and then, on finding a large log cleft with wedges, thrust his hands and feet at the same time into the cleft and strained to split the log completely asunder; but he was only strong enough to make the wedges fall out, whereupon the two parts of the log instantly snapped together; and caught in such a trap as that, he became food for wild beasts.
§ 6.1.13 Next in order, at a distance of two hundred stadia, comesSybaris, founded by theAchaeans; it is between two rivers, theCrathis and the Sybaris. Its founder wasIs ofHelice. In early times this city was so superior in its good fortune that it ruled over four tribes in the neighborhood, had twenty five subject cities, made the campaign against theCrotoniates with three hundred thousand men, and its inhabitants on theCrathis alone completely filled up a circuit of fifty stadia. However, by reason of luxury and insolence they were deprived of all their felicity by theCrotoniates within seventy days; for on taking the city these conducted the river over it and submerged it. Later on, the survivors, only a few, came together and were making it their home again, but in time these too were destroyed byAthenians and other Greeks, who, although they came there to live with them, conceived such a contempt for them that they not only slew them but removed the city to another place near by and named itThurii, after a spring of that name. Now theSybaris River makes thehorses that drink from it timid, and therefore all herds are kept away from it; whereas theCrathis makes the hair of persons who bathe in it yellow or white, and besides it cures many afflictions. Now after theThurii had prospered for a long time, they were enslaved by theLeucani, and when they were taken away from theLeucani by theTarantini, they took refuge inRome, and the Romans sent colonists to supplement them, since their population was reduced, and changed the name of the city to Copiae.
§ 6.1.14 AfterThurii comesLagaria, a stronghold, founded byEpeius and thePhocaeans; thence comes theLagaritan wine, which is sweet, mild, and extremely well thought of among physicians. That ofThurii, too, is one of the famous wines. Then comes the cityHeracleia, a short distance above the sea; and two navigable rivers, theAciris and theSiris. On theSiris there used to be aTrojan city of the same name, but in time, whenHeracleia was colonized thence by theTarantini, it became the port of theHeracleotes. It is twenty-four stadia distant fromHeracleia and about three hundred and thirty fromThurii. Writers produce as proof of its settlement by theTrojans the wooden image of the TrojanAthene which is set up there — the image that closed its eyes, the fable goes, when the suppliants were dragged away by theIonians who captured the city; for theseIonians came there as colonists when in flight from the dominion of theLydians, and by force took the city, which belonged to theChones, and called it Polieium; and the image even now can be seen closing its eyes. It is a bold thing, to be sure, to tell such a fable and to say that the image not only closed its eyes (just as they say the image inTroy turned away at the timeCassandra was violated) but can also be seen closing its eyes; and yet it is much bolder to represent as brought fromTroy all those images which the historians say were brought from there; for not only in the territory ofSiris, but also atRome, atLavinium, and atLuceria,Athene is called "TrojanAthena," as though brought fromTroy. And further, the daring deed of theTrojan women is current in numerous places, and appears incredible, although it is possible. According to some, however, bothSiris and theSybaris which is on theTraeis were founded by theRhodians. According toAntiochus, when theTarantini were at war with theThurii and their generalCleandridas, an exile fromLacedemon, for the possession of the territory ofSiris, they made a compromise and peopledSiris jointly, although it was adjudged the colony of theTarantini; but later on it was calledHeracleia, its site as well as its name being changed.
§ 6.1.15 Next in order comesMetapontium, which is one hundred and forty stadia from the naval station ofHeracleia. It is said to have been founded by thePylians who sailed fromTroy withNestor; and they so prospered from farming, it is said, that they dedicated a golden harvest atDelphi. And writers produce as a sign of its having been founded by thePylians the sacrifice to the shades of the sons ofNeleus. However, the city was wiped out by theSamnitae. According toAntiochus: Certain of theAchaeans were sent for by theAchaeans inSybaris and resettled the place, then forsaken, but they were summoned only because of a hatred which theAchaeans who had been banished fromLaconia had for theTarantini, in order that the neighboringTarantini might not pounce upon the place; there were two cities, but since, of the two,Metapontium was nearer toTaras, the newcomers were persuaded by theSybarites to takeMetapontium and hold it, for, if they held this, they would also hold the territory ofSiris, whereas, if they turned to the territory ofSiris, they would addMetapontium to the territory of theTarantini, which latter was on the very flank ofMetapontium; and when, later on, theMetapontians were at war with theTarantini and theOinotrians of the interior, a reconciliation was effected in regard to a portion of the land — that portion, indeed, which marked the boundary between theItaly of that time andIapygia. Here, too, the fabulous accounts placeMetapontus, and alsoMelanippe the prisoner and her sonBoeotus. In the opinion ofAntiochus, the cityMetapontium was first called Metabum and later on its name was slightly altered, and further,Melanippe was brought, not to Metabus, but toDius, as is proved by a hero-sanctuary ofMetabus, and also byAsius the poet, when he says thatBoeotus was brought forth "in the halls ofDius by shapelyMelanippe," meaning thatMelanippe was brought toDius, not to Metabus. But, asEphorus says, the colonizer ofMetapontium was Daulius, the tyrant of theCrisa which is nearDelphi. And there is this further account, that the man who was sent by theAchaeans to help colonize it wasLeucippus, and that after procuring the use of the place from theTarantini for only a day and night he would not give it back, replying by day to those who asked it back that he had asked and taken it for the next night also, and by night that he had taken and asked it also for the next day. Next in order comesTaras andIapygia; but before discussing them I shall, in accordance with my original purpose, give a general description of the islands that lie in front ofItaly; for as from time to time I have named also the islands which neighbor upon the several tribes, so now, since I have traversedOinotria from beginning to end, which alone the people of earlier times calledItaly, it is right that I should preserve the same order in traversingSicily and the islands round about it.
§ 6.2.1 SicilySicily is triangular in shape; and for this reason it was at first called "Trinacria," though later the name was changed to the more euphonious "Thrinacis." Its shape is defined by three capes:Pelorias, which withCaenys andColumna Rheginorum forms thestrait, andPachynus, which lies out towards the east and is washed by theSicilian Sea, thus facing towards thePeloponnesus and the sea-passage toCrete, and, third,Lilybaion, the cape that is next toLibya, thus facing at the same time towardsLibya and the winter sunset. As for the sides which are marked off by the three capes, two of them are moderately concave, whereas the third, the one that reaches fromLilybaion toPelorias, is convex; and this last is the longest, being one thousand seven hundred stadia in length, asPoseidonius states, though he adds twenty stadia more. Of the other two sides, the one fromLilybaion toPachynus is longer than the other, and the one next to thestrait andItaly, fromPelorias toPachynus, is shortest, being about one thousand one hundred and thirty stadia long. And the distance round the island by sea, as declared byPoseidonius, is four thousand stadia. But in the Chorography the distances given are longer, marked off in sections and given in miles: fromPelorias toMylae, twenty-five miles; the same fromMylae toTyndaris; then toAgathyrnum thirty, and the same toAlaesa, and again the same toCephaloedium, these being small towns; and eighteen to the RiverHimera, which flows through the middle ofSicily; then toPanormus thirty-five, and thirty-two to theEmporium of the Aegestes, and the rest of the way, toLilybaion, thirty-eight. Thence, on doublingLilybaion, to the adjacent side, to theHeracleium seventy-five miles, and to theEmporium of theAcragantini twenty, and another twenty toCamarina; and then toPachynus fifty. Thence again along the third side: toSyracuse thirty-six, and toCatana sixty; then toTauromenium thirty-three; and then toMessene thirty. On foot, however, the distance fromPachynus toPelorias is one hundred and sixty-eight miles, and fromMessene toLilybaion by theValerian Way two hundred and thirty-five. But some writers have spoken in a more general way, as, for example,Ephorus: "At any rate, the voyage round the island takes five days and nights." Further,Poseidonius, in marking off the boundaries of the island by means of the "climata," putsPelorias towards the north,Lilybaion towards the south, andPachynus towards the east. But since the "climata" are each divided off into parallelograms, necessarily the triangles that are inscribed (particularly those which are scalene and of which no side fits on any one of the sides of the parallelogram) cannot, because of their slant, be fitted to the "climata." However this may be, one might fairly say, in the case of the "climata" ofSicily, which is situated south ofItaly, thatPelorias is the most northerly of the three corners; and therefore the side that joinsPelorias toPachynus will lie out towards the east, thus facing towards the north, and also will form the side that is on thestrait. But this side must take a slight turn toward the winter sunrise, for the shore bends aside in this direction as one proceeds fromCatana toSyracuse andPachynus. Now the distance fromPachynus across to the mouth of theAlpheius is four thousand stadia; but whenArtemidorus says that it is four thousand six hundred stadia fromPachynus toTaenarum and one thousand one hundred and thirty from theAlpheius to thePamisus, he seems to me to afford us reason for suspecting that his statement is not in agreement with that of the man who says that the distance to theAlpheius fromPachynus is four thousand stadia. Again, the side that extends fromPachynus toLilybaion, which is considerably farther west thanPelorias, should itself also be made to slant considerably from its southernmost point towards the west, and should face at the same time towards the east and towards the south, one part being washed by theSicilian Sea and the other by the Libyan Sea that reaches from Carthaginia to theSyrtes. The shortest passage fromLilybaion across toLibya in neighborhood ofCarthage is one thousand five hundred stadia; and on this passage, it is said, some man of sharp vision, from a look-out, used to report to the men inLilybaion the number of ships that were putting to sea fromCarthage. Again, the side that extends fromLilybaion toPelorias necessarily slants towards the east, and faces towards the region that is between the west and the north, havingItaly on the north and on the west theTyrrhenian sea and theIslands of Aeolus.
§ 6.2.2 The cities along the side that forms theStrait are, first,Messene, and thenTauromenium,Catana, andSyracuse; but those that were betweenCatana andSyracuse have disappeared —Naxus andMegara; and on this coast are the outlets of theSymaethus and all rivers that flow down fromAetna and have good harbors at their mouths; and here too is the promontory ofXiphonia. According toEphorus these were the earliest Greek cities to be founded inSicily, that is, in the tenth generation after theTrojan War; for before that time men were so afraid of the bands ofTyrrhenianpirates and the savagery of the barbarians in this region that they would not so much as sail thither for trafficking; but thoughTheocles, theAthenian, borne out of his course by the winds toSicily, clearly perceived both the weakness of the peoples and the excellence of the soil, yet, when he went back, he could not persuade theAthenians, and hence took as partners a considerable number ofEuboeanChalcidians and someIonians and also someDorians (most of whom wereMegarians) and made the voyage; so theChalcidians foundedNaxos, whereas theDorians foundedMegara, which in earlier times had been calledHybla. The cities no longer exist, it is true, but the name ofHybla still endures, because of the excellence of theHyblaean honey.
§ 6.2.3 As for the cities that still endure along the aforementioned side:Messene is situated in a gulf ofPelorias, which bends considerably towards the east and forms an armpit, so to speak; but though the distance across toMessene fromRhegium is only sixty stadia, it is much less fromColumna.Messene was founded by theMessenians of thePeloponnesus, who named it after themselves, changing its name; for formerly it was calledZancle, on account of the crookedness of the coast (anything crooked was called "zanclion"), having been founded formerly by theNaxians who lived nearCatana. But theMamertini, a tribe of theCampani, joined the colony later on. Now the Romans used it as a base of operations for theirSicilian war against theCarthaginians; and afterwardsPompeius Sextus, when at war withAugustus Caesar, kept his fleet together there, and when ejected from the island also made his escape thence. And in the ship-channel, only a short distance off the city, is to be seemCharybdis, a monstrous deep, into which the ships are easily drawn by the refluent currents of thestrait and plunged prow-foremost along with a mighty eddying of the whirlpool; and when the ships are gulped down and broken to pieces, the wreckage is swept along to theTauromenian shore, which, from this occurrence, is called Copria. TheMamertini prevailed to such an extent among theMessenii that they got control of the city; and the people are by all calledMamertini rather than Messenii; and further, since the country is exceedingly productive of wine, the wine is called, notMessenian, butMamertine, and it rivals the best of theItalian wines. The city is fairly populous, thoughCatana is still more so, and in fact has received Romans as inhabitants; butTauromenium is less populous than either.Catana, moreover, was founded by the sameNaxians, whereasTauromenium was founded by theZanclaeans ofHybla; butCatana lost its original inhabitants whenHiero, tyrant ofSyracuse, established a different set of colonists there and called itAetna instead ofCatana. AndPindar too calls him the founder ofAetna when he say: "Attend to what I say to thee, O Father, whose name is that of the holy sacrifices, founder ofAetna." But at the death ofHiero theCatanaeans came back, ejected the inhabitants, and demolished the tomb of the tyrant. And theAetnaeans, on withdrawing, took up their abode in a hilly district ofAetna called Innesa, and called the place, which is eighty stadia fromCatana,Aetna, and declaredHiero its founder. Now the city ofAetna is situated in the interior about overCatana, and shares most in the devastation caused by the action of the craters; in fact the streams of lava rush down very nearly as far as the territory ofCatana; and here is the scene of the act of filial piety, so often recounted, ofAmphinomus andAnapias, who lifted their parents on their shoulders and saved them from the doom that was rushing upon them. According toPoseidonius, when the mountain is in action, the fields of theCatanaeans are covered with ash-dust to a great depth. Now although the ash is an affliction at the time, it benefits the country in later times, for it renders it fertile and suited to the vine, the rest of the country not being equally productive of good wine; further, the roots produced by the fields that have been covered with ash-dust make thesheep so fat, it is said, that they choke; and this is why blood is drawn from their ears every four or five days — a thing of which I have spoken before as occurring nearErytheia. But when the lava changes to a solid, it turns the surface of the earth into stone to a considerable depth, so that quarrying is necessary on the part of any who wish to uncover the original surface; for when the mass of rock in the craters melts and then is thrown up, the liquid that is poured out over the top is black mud and flows down the mountain, and then, solidifying, becomes millstone, keeping the same color it had when in a liquid state. And ash is also produced when the stones are burnt, as from wood; therefore, just as wood-ashes nourish rue, so the ashes ofAetna, it is reasonable to suppose, have some quality that is peculiarly suited to the vine.
§ 6.2.4 Syracuse was founded byArchias, who sailed fromCorinth about the same time thatNaxos andMegara were colonized. It is said thatArchias went toDelphi at the same time asMyscellus, and when they were consulting the oracle, the god asked them whether they chose wealth or health; nowArchias chose wealth, andMyscellus health; accordingly, the god granted to the former to foundSyracuse, and to the latterCroton. And it actually came to pass that theCrotoniates took up their abode in a city that was exceedingly healthful, as I have related, and thatSyracuse fell into such exceptional wealth that the name of theSyracusans was spread abroad in a proverb applied to the excessively extravagant — "the tithe of theSyracusans would not be sufficient for them." And whenArchias, the story continues, was on his voyage toSicily, he leftChersicrates, of the race of theHeracleidae, with a part of the expedition to help colonize what is now calledCorcyra, but was formerly calledScheria;Chersicrates, however, ejected theLiburnians, who held possession of the island, and colonized it with new settlers, whereasArchias landed atZephyrium, found that someDorians who had quit the company of the founders ofMegara and were on their way back home had arrived there fromSicily, took them up and in common with them foundedSyracuse. And the city grew, both on account of the fertility of the soil and on account of the natural excellence of its harbors. Furthermore, the men ofSyracuse proved to have the gift of leadership, with the result that when theSyracusans were ruled by tyrants they lorded it over the rest, and when set free themselves they set free those who were oppressed by the barbarians. As for these barbarians, some were native inhabitants, whereas others came over from the mainland. The Greeks would permit none of them to lay hold of the seaboard, but were not strong enough to keep them altogether away from the interior; indeed, to this day theSiceli, theSicani, theMorgetes, and certain others have continued to live in the island, among whom there used to beIberians, who, according toEphorus, were said to be the first barbarian settlers ofSicily. Morgantium, it is reasonable to suppose, was settled by theMorgetes; it used to be a city, but now it does not exist. When theCarthaginians came over they did not cease to abuse both these people and the Greeks, but theSyracusans nevertheless held out. But the Romans later on ejected theCarthaginians and tookSyracuse by siege. And in our own time, becausePompeius abused, not only the other cities, butSyracuse in particular,Augustus Caesar sent a colony and restored a considerable part of the old settlement; for in olden times it was a city of five towns, with a wall of one hundred and eighty stadia. Now it was not at all necessary to fill out the whole of this circuit, but it was necessary, he thought, to build up in a better way only the part that was settled — the part adjacent to the Island ofOrtygia which had a sufficient circuit to make a notable city.Ortygia is connected with the mainland, near which it lies, by a bridge, and has the fountain ofArethusa, which sends forth a river that empties immediately into the sea. People tell the mythical story that the riverArethusa is theAlpheius, which latter, they say, rises in thePeloponnesus, flows underground through the sea as far asArethusa, and then empties thence once more into the sea. And the kind of evidence they adduce is as follows: a certain cup, they think, was thrown out into the river atOlympia and was discharged into the fountain; and again, the fountain was discolored as the result of the sacrifices ofoxen atOlympia.Pindar follows these reports when he says: "O resting-place august ofAlpheius,Ortygia, scion of famousSyracuse." And in agreement withPindarTimaeus the historian also declares the same thing. Now if theAlpheius fell into a pit before joining the sea, there would be some plausibility in the view that the stream extends underground fromOlympia as far asSicily, thereby preserving its potable water unmixed with the sea; but since the mouth of the river empties into the sea in full view, and since near this mouth, on the transit, there is no mouth visible that swallows up the stream of the river (though even so the water could not remain fresh; yet it might, the greater part of it at least, if it sank into the underground channel), the thing is absolutely impossible. For the water ofArethusa bears testimony against it, since it is potable; and that the stream of the river should hold together through so long a transit without being diffused with the seawater, that is, until it falls into the fancied underground passage, is utterly mythical. Indeed, we can scarcely believe this in the case of theRhodanus, although its stream does hold together when it passes through a lake, keeping its course visible; in this case, however, the distance is short and the lake does not rise in waves, whereas in case of the sea in question, where there are prodigious storms and surging waves, the tale is foreign to all plausibility. And the citing of the story of the cup only magnifies the falsehood, for a cup does not of itself readily follow the current of any stream, to say nothing of a stream that flows so great a distance and through such passages. Now there are many rivers in many parts of the world that flow underground, but not for such a distance; and even if this is possible, the stories aforesaid, at least, are impossible, and those concerning the riverInachus are like a myth: "For it flows from the heights ofPindus," saysSophocles, "and from Lacmus, from the land of thePerrhaebians, into the lands of theAmphilochians andAcarnanians, and mingles with the waters ofAchelous," and, a little below, he adds, "whence it cleaves the waves toArgos and comes to the people ofLyrceium." Marvellous tales of this sort are stretched still further by those who make theInopus cross over from theNile toDelos. AndZoilus the rhetorician says in his Eulogy of theTenedians that theAlpheius rises inTenedos — the man who finds fault withHomer as a writer of myths! AndIbycus says that theAsopus inSikyon rises inPhrygia. But the statement ofHecataeus is better, when he says that theInachus among theAmphilochians, which flows from Lacmus, as does also theAeas, is different from the river ofArgos, and that it was named byAmphilochus, the man who called the cityArgos Amphilochicum. NowHecataeus says that this river does empty into theAchelous, but that theAeas flows towards the west intoApollonia. On either side of the island ofOrtygia is a large harbor; the larger of the two is eighty stadia in circuit.Caesar restored this city and alsoCatana; and so, in the same way,Centoripa, because it contributed much to the overthrow ofPompeius.Centoripa lies aboveCatana, bordering on theAetnaean mountains, and on theSymaethus River, which flows into the territory ofCatana.
§ 6.2.5 Of the remaining sides ofSicily, that which extends fromPachynus toLilybaion has been utterly deserted, although it preserves traces of the old settlements, among which wasCamarina, a colony of theSyracusans;Acragas, however, which belongs to theGeloans, and its seaport, and alsoLilybaion still endure. For since this region was most exposed to attack on the part ofCarthage, most of it was ruined by the long wars that arose one after another. The last and longest side is not populous either, but still it is fairly well peopled; in fact,Alaesa,Tyndaris, theEmporium of the Aegestes, andCephaloedis are all cities, andPanormus has also a Roman settlement.Aegestaea was founded, it is said, by those who crossed over withPhiloctetes to the territory ofCroton, as I have stated in my account ofItaly; they were sent toSicily by him along withAegestes theTrojan.
§ 6.2.6 In the interior isEnna, where is the sanctuary ofDemeter, with only a few inhabitants; it is situated on a hill, and is wholly surrounded by broad plateaus that are tillable. It suffered most at the hands ofEunus and his runaway slaves, who were besieged there and only with difficulty were dislodged by the Romans. The inhabitants ofCatana andTauromenium and also several other peoples suffered this same fate.Eryx, a lofty hill, is also inhabited. It has a sanctuary ofAphrodite that is held in exceptional honor, and in early times was full of female temple-slaves, who had been dedicated in fulfillment of vows not only by the people ofSicily but also by many people from abroad; but at the present time, just as the settlement itself, so the sanctuary is in want of men, and the multitude of temple-slaves has disappeared. InRome, also, there is a likeness of this goddess, I mean the sanctuary before theColline Gate which is called that ofVenusErycina and is remarkable for its temple and surrounding colonnade. But the rest of the settlements as well as most of the interior have come into the possession of shepherds; for I do not know of any settled population still living in eitherHimera, orGela, orCallipolis orSelinus orEuboia or several other places. Of these citiesHimera was founded by theZanclaeans ofMylae,Callipolis by theNaxians,Selinus by theMegarians of theSicilianMegara, andEuboia by theLeontines. Many of the barbarian cities, also, have been wiped out; for exampleCamici, the royal residence ofCocalus, at whichMinos is said to have been murdered by treachery. The Romans, therefore, taking notice that the country was deserted, took possession of the mountains and most of the plains and then gave them over to horseherds, cowherds, and shepherds; and by these herdsmen the island was many times put in great danger, because, although at first they only turned to brigandage in a sporadic way, later they both assembled in great numbers and plundered the settlements, as, for example, whenEunus and his men took possession ofEnna. And recently, in my own time, a certain Selurus, called the "son ofAetna," was sent up toRome because he had put himself at the head of an army and for a long time had overrun the regions round aboutAetna with frequent raids; I saw him torn to pieces by wild beasts at an appointed combat of gladiators in theForum; for he was placed on a lofty scaffold, as though onAetna, and the scaffold was made suddenly to break up and collapse, and he himself was carried down with it into cages of wild beasts — fragile cages that had been prepared beneath the scaffold for that purpose.
§ 6.2.7 As for the fertility of the country, why should I speak of it, since it is on the lips of all men, who declare that it is no whit inferior to that ofItaly? And in the matter of grain, honey, saffron, and certain other products, one might call it even superior. There is, furthermore, its propinquity; for the island is a part ofItaly, as it were, and readily and without great labor suppliesRome with everything it has, as though from the fields ofItaly. And in fact it is called the storehouse ofRome, for everything it produces is brought hither except a few things that are consumed at home, and not the fruits only, but alsocattle, hides, wool, and the like.Poseidonius says thatSyracuse andEryx are each situated like an acropolis by the sea, whereasEnna lies midway between the two above the encircling plains. The whole of the territory ofLeontini, also, which likewise belonged to theNaxians ofSicily, has been devastated; for although they always shared with theSyracusans in their misfortunes, it was not always so with their good fortunes.
§ 6.2.8 NearCentoripa is the town ofAetna, which was mentioned a little above, whose people entertain and conduct those who ascend themountain; for the mountain-summit begins here. The upper districts are bare and ash-like and full of snow during the winter, whereas the lower are divided up by forests and plantations of every sort. The topmost parts of the mountain appear to undergo many changes because of the way the fire distributes itself, for at one time the fire concentrates in one crater, but at another time divides, while at one time the mountain sends forth lava, at another, flames and fiery smoke, and at still other times it also emits red-hot masses; and the inevitable result of these disturbances is that not only the underground passages, but also the orifices, sometimes rather numerous, which appear on the surface of the mountain all round, undergo changes at the same time. Be this as it may, those who recently made the ascent gave me the following account: They found at the top a level plain, about twenty stadia in circuit, enclosed by a rim of ashes the height of a house-wall, so that any who wished to proceed into the plain had to leap down from the wall; they saw in the center of the plain a mound of the color of ashes, in this respect being like the surface of the plain as seen from above, and above the mound a perpendicular cloud rising straight up to a height of about two hundred feet, motionless (for it was a windless day) and resembling smoke; and two of the men had the hardihood to proceed into the plain, but because the sand they were walking on got hotter and deeper, they turned back, and so were unable to tell those who were observing from a distance anything more than what was already apparent. But they believed, from such a view as they had, that many of the current stories are mythical, and particularly those which some tell aboutEmpedocles, that he leaped down into the crater and left behind, as a trace of the fate he suffered, one of the brazen sandals which he wore; for it was found, they say, a short distance outside the rim of the crater, as though it had been thrown up by the force of the fire. Indeed, the place is neither to be approached nor to be seen, according to my informants; and further, they surmised that nothing could be thrown down into it either, owing to the contrary blasts of the winds arising from the depths, and also owing to the heat, which, it is reasonable to suppose, meets one long before one comes near the mouth of the crater; but even if something should be thrown down into it, it would be destroyed before it could be thrown up in anything like the shape it had when first received; and although it is not unreasonable to assume that at times the blasts of the fire die down when at times the fuel is deficient, yet surely this would not last long enough to make possible the approach of man against so great a force.Aetna dominates more especially the seaboard in the region of theStrait and the territory ofCatana, but also that in the region of theTyrrhenian sea and theLiparaean Islands. Now although by night a brilliant light shines from the summit, by day it is covered with smoke and haze.
§ 6.2.9 Over againstAetna rise the Nebrodes Mountains, which, though lower thanAetna, exceed it considerably in breadth. The whole island is hollow down beneath the ground, and full of streams and of fire, as is the case with theTyrrhenian sea, as far as theCumaean country, as I have said before. At all events, the island has at many places springs of hot waters which spout up, of which those ofSelinus and those ofHimera are brackish, whereas those ofAegesta are potable. NearAcragas are lakes which, though they have the taste of seawater, are different in nature; for even people who cannot swim do not sink, but float on the surface like wood. The territory of thePalici has craters that spout up water in a dome-like jet and receive it back again into the same recess. The cavern near Mataurus contains an immense gallery through which a river flows invisible for a considerable distance, and then emerges to the surface, as is the case with theOrontes inSyria, which sinks into the chasm (calledCharybdis) betweenApameia andAntiocheia and rises again forty stadia away. Similar, too, are the cases both of theTigris inMesopotamia and of theNile inLibya, only a short distance from their sources. And the water in the territory ofStymphalus first flows underground for two hundred stadia and then issues forth inArgeia as theErasinus River; and again, the water near theArcadianAsea is first forced below the surface and then, much later, emerges as both theEurotas and theAlpheius; and hence the belief in a certain fabulous utterance, that if two wreaths be dedicated separately to each of the two rivers and thrown into the common stream, each will reappear, in accordance with the dedication, in the appropriate river. And I have already mentioned what is told about theTimavus River.
§ 6.2.10 Phenomena akin both to these and to those inSicily are to be seen about theLiparaean Islands andLipara itself. The islands are seven in number, but the largest isLipara (a colony of theCnidians), which,Thermessa excepted, lies nearest toSicily. It was formerly calledMeligunis; and it not only commanded a fleet, but for a long time resisted the incursions of theTyrrheni, for it held in obedience all theLiparaean Islands, as they are now called, though by some they are called the Islands ofAeolus. Furthermore, it often adorned the sanctuary ofApollo atDelphi with dedications from the first fruits of victory. It has also a fruitful soil, and a mine of styptic earth that brings in revenues, and hot springs, and fire blasts. BetweenLipara andSicily isThermessa, which is now calledHiera ofHephaestus; the whole island is rocky, desert, and fiery, and it has three fire blasts, rising from three openings which one might call craters. From the largest the flames carry up also red-hot masses, which have already choked up a considerable part of theStrait. From observation it has been believed that the flames, both here and onAetna, are stimulated along with the winds and that when the winds cease the flames cease too. And this is not unreasonable, for the winds are begotten by the evaporations of the sea and after they have taken their beginning are fed thereby; and therefore it is not permissible for any who have any sort of insight into such matters to marvel if the fire too is kindled by a cognate fuel or disturbance. According toPolybius, one of the three craters has partially fallen in, whereas the others remain whole; and the largest has a circular rim five stadia in circuit, but it gradually contracts to a diameter of fifty feet; and the altitude of this crater above the level of the sea is a stadium, so that the crater is visible on windless days. But if all this is to be believed, perhaps one should also believe the mythical story aboutEmpedocles. Now if the south wind is about to blow,Polybius continues, a cloud-like mist pours down all round the island, so that not evenSicily is visible in the distance; and when the north wind is about to blow, pure flames rise aloft from the aforesaid crater and louder rumblings are sent forth; but the west wind holds a middle position, so to speak, between the two; but though the two other craters are like the first in kind, they fall short in the violence of their spoutings; accordingly, both the difference in the rumblings, and the place whence the spoutings and the flames and the fiery smoke begin, signify beforehand the wind that is going to blow again three days afterward; at all events, certain of the men inLiparae, when the weather made sailing impossible, predicted, he says, the wind that was to blow, and they were not mistaken; from this fact, then, it is clear that that saying of the Poet which is regarded as most mythical of all was not idly spoken, but that he hinted at the truth when he calledAeolus "steward of the winds." However, I have already discussed these matters sufficiently. It is the close attention of the Poet to vivid description, one might call it, . . . for both are equally present in rhetorical composition and vivid description; at any rate, pleasure is common to both. But I shall return to the topic which follows that at which I digressed.
§ 6.2.11 OfLipara, then, andThermessa I have already spoken. As forStrongyle, it is so called from its shape, and it too is fiery; it falls short in the violence of its flame, but excels in the brightness of its light; and this is whereAeolus lived, it is said. The fourth island isDidyme, and it too is named after its shape. Of the remaining islands,Ericussa andPhoenicussa have been so called from their plants, and are given over to pasturage of flocks. The seventh is Euonymus, which is farthest out in the high sea and is desert; it is so named because it is more to the left than the others, to those who sail fromLipara toSicily. Again, many times flames have been observed running over the surface of the sea round about the islands when some passage had been opened up from the cavities down in the depths of the earth and the fire had forced its way to the outside.Poseidonius says that within his own recollection, one morning at daybreak about the time of the summer solstice, the sea betweenHiera and Euonymus was seen raised to an enormous height, and by a sustained blast remained puffed up for a considerable time, and then subsided; and when those who had the hardihood to sail up to it saw dead fish driven by the current, and some of the men were stricken ill because of the heat and stench, they took flight; one of the boats, however, approaching more closely, lost some of its occupants and barely escaped toLipara with the rest, who would at times become senseless like epileptics, and then afterwards would recur to their proper reasoning faculties; and many days later mud was seen forming on the surface of the sea, and in many places flames, smoke, and murky fire broke forth, but later the scum hardened and became as hard as mill-stone; and the governor ofSicily,Titus Flaminius, reported the event to the Senate, and the Senate sent a deputation to offer propitiatory sacrifices, both in the islet and inLiparae, to the gods both of the underworld and of the Sea. Now, according to the Chorographer, the distance fromEricodes toPhoenicodes is ten miles, and thence toDidyme thirty, and thence to the northern part ofLipara twenty-nine, and thence toSicily nineteen, but fromStrongyle sixteen. OffPachynus lieMelita, whence come the littledogs calledMelitaean, andGaudos, both eighty-eight miles distant from the Cape.Cossura lies offLilybaion, and offAspis, a Carthaginian city whoseLatin name isClupea; it lies midway between the two, and is the aforesaid distance from either.Aegimurus, also, and other small islands lie offSicily andLibya. So much for the islands.
§ 6.3.1 Iapygia Now that I have traversed the regions of OldItaly as far asMetapontium, I must speak of those that border on them. AndIapygia borders on them. The Greeks call itMessapia, also, but the natives, dividing it into two parts, call one part (that about theIapygian Cape) the country of theSalentini, and the other the country of theCalabri. Above these latter, on the north, are thePeucetii and also those people who in the Greek language are calledDaunii, but the natives give the nameApulia to the whole country that comes after that of theCalabri, though some of them, particularly thePeucetii, are calledPoedicli also.Messapia forms a sort of peninsula, since it is enclosed by the isthmus that extends fromBrentesium as far asTaras, three hundred and ten stadia. And the voyage thither around theIapygian Cape is, all told, about four hundred stadia. The distance fromMetapontium is about two hundred and twenty stadia, and the voyage to it is towards the rising sun. But though the wholeTarantine Gulf, generally speaking, is harborless, yet at the city there is a very large and beautiful harbor, which is enclosed by a large bridge and is one hundred stadia in circumference. In that part of the harbor which lies towards the innermost recess, the harbor, with the outer sea, forms an isthmus, and therefore the city is situated on a peninsula; and since the neck of land is low-lying, the ships are easily hauled overland from either side. The ground of the city, too, is low-lying, but still it is slightly elevated where the acropolis is. The old wall has a large circuit, but at the present time the greater part of the city — the part that is near the isthmus — has been forsaken, but the part that is near the mouth of the harbor, where the acropolis is, still endures and makes up a city of noteworthy size. And it has a very beautiful gymnasium, and also a spacious market-place, in which is situated the bronze colossus ofZeus, the largest in the world except the one that belongs to theRhodians. Between the marketplace and the mouth of the harbor is the acropolis, which has but few remnants of the dedicated objects that in early times adorned it, for most of them were either destroyed by theCarthaginians when they took the city or carried off as booty by the Romans when they took the place by storm. Among this booty is theHeracles in theCapitol, a colossal bronze statue, the work ofLysippus, dedicated byMaximus Fabius, who captured the city.
§ 6.3.2 In speaking of the founding ofTaras,Antiochus says: After theMessenian war broke out, those of theLacedemonians who did not take part in the expedition were adjudged slaves and were namedHelots, and all children who were born in the time of the expedition were calledPartheniae and judicially deprived of the rights of citizenship, but they would not tolerate this, and since they were numerous formed a plot against the free citizens; and when the latter learned of the plot they sent secretly certain men who, through a pretence of friendship, were to report what manner of plot it was; among these wasPhalanthus, who was reputed to be their champion, but he was not pleased, in general, with those who had been named to take part in the council. It was agreed, however, that the attack should be made at theHyacinthian festival in theAmyclaion when the games were being celebrated, at the moment whenPhalanthus should put on his leather cap (the free citizens were recognizable by their hair ); but whenPhalanthus and his men had secretly reported the agreement, and when the games were in progress, the herald came forward and forbadePhalanthus to put on a leather cap; and when the plotters perceived that the plot had been revealed, some of them began to run away and others to beg for mercy; but they were bidden to be of good cheer and were given over to custody;Phalanthus, however, was sent to the sanctuary of the god to consult with reference to founding a colony; and the god responded, "I give to theeSatyrium, both to take up thine abode in the rich land ofTaras and to become a bane to theIapygians." Accordingly, thePartheniae went thither withPhalanthus, and they were welcomed by both the barbarians and theCretans who had previously taken possession of the place. These latter, it is said, are the people who sailed withMinos toSicily, and, after his death, which occurred at the home ofCocalus inCamici, set sail fromSicily; but on the voyage back they were driven out of their course toTaras, although later some of them went afoot around theAdrias as far asMacedonia and were calledBottiaeans. But all the people as far asDaunia, it is said, were calledIapyges, afterIapyx, who is said to have been the son ofDaedalus by aCretan woman and to have been the leader of theCretans. The city ofTaras, however, was named after some hero.
§ 6.3.3 ButEphorus describes the founding of the city thus: TheLacedemonians were at war with theMessenians because the latter had killed their kingTeleclus when he went toMessene to offer sacrifice, and they swore that they would not return home again until they either destroyedMessene or were all killed; and when they set out on the expedition, they left behind the youngest and the oldest of the citizens to guard the city; but later on, in the tenth year of the war, theLacedemonian women met together and sent certain of their own number to make complaint to their husbands that they were carrying on the war with theMessenians on unequal terms, for theMessenians, staying in their own country, were begetting children, whereas they, having abandoned their wives to widowhood, were on an expedition in the country of the enemy, and they complained that the fatherland was in danger of being in want of men; and theLacedemonians, both keeping their oath and at the same time bearing in mind the argument of the women, sent the men who were most vigorous and at the same time youngest, for they knew that these had not taken part in the oaths, because they were still children when they went out to war along with the men who were of military age; and they ordered them to cohabit with the maidens, every man with every maiden, thinking that thus the maidens would bear many more children; and when this was done, the children were namedPartheniae. But as forMessene, it was captured after a war of nineteen years, asTyrtaeus says: "About it they fought for nineteen years, relentlessly, with heart ever steadfast, did the fathers of our fathers, spearmen they; and in the twentieth the people forsook their fertile farms and fled from the great mountains ofIthome." Now theLacedemonians divided upMessenia among themselves, but when they came on back home they would not honor thePartheniae with civic rights like the rest, on the ground that they had been born out of wedlock; and thePartheniae, leaguing with theHelots, formed a plot against theLacedemonians and agreed to raise aLaconian cap in the market-place as a signal for the attack. But though some of theHelots had revealed the plot, theLacedemonians decided that it would be difficult to make a counter-attack against them, for theHelots were not only numerous but were all of one mind, regarding themselves as virtually brothers of one another, and merely charged those who were about to raise the signal to go away from the marketplace. So the plotters, on learning that the undertaking had been betrayed, held back, and theLacedemonians persuaded them, through the influence of their fathers, to go forth and found a colony, and if the place they took possession of sufficed them, to stay there, but if not, to come on back and divide among themselves the fifth part ofMessenia. And they, thus sent forth, found theAchaeans at war with the barbarians, took part in their perils, and foundedTaras.
§ 6.3.4 At one time theTarantini were exceedingly powerful, that is, when they enjoyed a democratic government; for they not only had acquired the largest fleet of all peoples in that part of the world but were wont to send forth an army of thirty thousand infantry, three thousand cavalry, and one thousand commanders of cavalry. Moreover, thePythagorean philosophy was embraced by them, but especially byArchytas, who presided over the city for a considerable time. But later, because of their prosperity, luxury prevailed to such an extent that the public festivals celebrated among them every year were more in number than the days of the year; and in consequence of this they also were poorly governed. One evidence of their bad policies is the fact that they employed foreign generals; for they sent forAlexander theMolossian to lead them in their war against theMessapians andLeucanians, and, still before that, forArchidamus, the son ofAgesilaus, and, later on, forCleonymus, andAgathocles, and then forPyrrhus, at the time when they formed a league with him against the Romans. And yet even to those whom they called in they could not yield a ready obedience, and would set them at enmity. At all events, it was out of enmity thatAlexander tried to transfer toThurian territory the general festival assembly of all Greek peoples in that part of the world — the assembly which was wont to meet atHeracleotes inTarantine territory, and that he began to urge that a place for the meetings be fortified on theAcalandrus River. Furthermore, it is said that the unhappy end which befell him was the result of their ingratitude. Again, about the time of the wars withHannibal, they were deprived of their freedom, although later they received a colony of Romans, and are now living at peace and better than before. In their war against theMessapians for the possession ofHeracleia, they had the co-operation of the king of theDaunians and the king of thePeucetians.
§ 6.3.5 That part of the country of theIapygians which comes next is fine, though in an unexpected way; for although on the surface it appears rough, it is found to be deep-soiled when ploughed, and although it is rather lacking in water, it is manifestly none the less good for pasturage and for trees. The whole of this district was once extremely populous; and it also had thirteen cities; but now, with the exception ofTaras andBrentesium, all of them are so worn out by war that they are merely small towns. TheSalentini are said to be a colony of theCretans. Thesanctuary ofAthene, once so rich, is in their territory, as also the look-out-rock called CapeIapygia, a huge rock which extends out into the sea towards the winter sunrise, though it bends approximately towards theLacinium, which rises opposite to it on the west and with it bars the mouth of theTarantine Gulf. And with it theCeraunian Mountains, likewise, bar the mouth of theIonian Sea; the passage across from it both to theCeraunian Mountains and to theLacinium is about seven hundred stadia. But the distance by sea fromTaras around toBrentesium is as follows: First, to the small town ofBaris, six hundred stadia; Baris is called by the people of todayVeretum, is situated at the edge of theSalentine territory, and the trip thither fromTaras is for the most part easier to make on foot than by sailing. Thence toLeuca eighty stadia; this, too, is a small town, and in it is to be seen a fountain of malodorous water; the mythical story is told that those of theGiants who survived at theCampanianPhlegra and are called the LeuternianGiants were driven out byHeracles, and on fleeing hither for refuge were shrouded byMother Earth, and the fountain gets its malodorous stream from the ichor of their bodies; and for this reason, also, the seaboard here is called Leuternia. Again, fromLeuca toHydrus, a small town, one hundred and fifty stadia. Thence toBrentesium four hundred; and it is an equal distance to the islandSason, which is situated about midway of the distance across fromEpeirus toBrentesium. And therefore those who cannot accomplish the straight voyage sail to the left ofSason and put in atHydrus; and then, watching for a favorable wind, they hold their course towards the harbors of theBrentesini, although if they disembark, they go afoot by a shorter route by way ofRodiae, a Greek city, where the poetEnnius was born. So then, the district one sails around in going fromTaras toBrentesium resembles a peninsula, and the overland journey fromBrentesium toTaras, which is only a one day's journey for a man well-girt, forms the isthmus of the aforesaid peninsula; and this peninsula most people call by one general nameMessapia, orIapygia, orCalabria, orSalentina, although some divide it up, as I have said before. So much, then, for the towns on the seacoast.
§ 6.3.6 In the interior areRodiae andLupiae, and, slightly above the sea, Aletia; and at the middle of the isthmus,Uria, in which is still to be seen the palace of one of the chieftains. WhenHerodotus states thatHyria is inIapygia and was founded by theCretans who strayed from the fleet ofMinos when on its way toSicily, we must understandHyria to be eitherUria orVeretum.Brentesium, they say, was further colonized by theCretans, whether by those who came over withTheseus fromCnossus or by those who set sail fromSicily withIapyx (the story is told both ways), although they did not stay together there, it is said, but went off toBottiaea. Later on, however, when ruled by kings, the city lost much of its country to theLacedemonians who were under the leadership ofPhalanthus; but still, when he was ejected fromTaras, he was admitted by theBrentesini, and when he died was counted by them worthy of a splendid burial. Their country is better than that of theTarantini, for, though the soil is thin, it produces good fruits, and its honey and wool are among those that are strongly commended.Brentesium is also better supplied with harbors; for here many harbors are closed in by one mouth; and they are sheltered from the waves, because bays are formed inside in such a way as to resemble in shape a stag's horns; and hence the name, for, along with the city, the place very much resembles a stag's head, and in theMessapian language the head of the stag is called "brentesium." But theTarantine harbor, because of its wide expanse, is not wholly sheltered from the waves; and besides there are some shallows in the innermost part of it.
§ 6.3.7 In the case of those who sail across from Greece orAsia, the more direct route is toBrentesium, and, in fact, all who propose to go toRome by land put into port here. There are two roads from here: one, a mule-road through the countries of thePeucetii (who are calledPoedicli), theDaunii, and theSamnitae as far asBeneventum; on this road is the city ofEgnatia, and then, Celia, Netium,Canusium, andHerdonia. But the road by way ofTaras, lying slightly to the left of the other, though as much as one day's journey out of the way when one has made the circuit, what is called theAppian Way, is better for carriages. On this road are the cities ofUria andVenusia, the former betweenTaras andBrentesium and the latter on the confines of theSamnitae and theLeucani. Both the roads fromBrentesium meet nearBeneventum andCampania. And the common road from here on, as far asRome, is called theAppian Way, and passes throughCaudium ,Calatia,Capua, andCasilinum toSinuessa. And the places from there on I have already mentioned. The total length of the road fromRome toBrentesium is three hundred and sixty miles. But there is also a third road, which runs fromRhegium through the countries of theBrettii, theLeucani, and theSamnitae intoCampania, where it joins theAppian Way; it passes through theApennine Mountains and it requires three or four days more than the road fromBrentesium.
§ 6.3.8 The voyage fromBrentesium to the opposite mainland is made either to theCeraunian Mountains and those parts of the seaboard ofEpeirus and of Greece which come next to them, or else toEpidamnus; the latter is longer than the former, for it is one thousand eight hundred stadia. And yet the latter is the usual route, because the city has a good position with reference both to the tribes of theIllyrians and to those of theMacedonians. As one sails fromBrentesium along theAdriatic seaboard, one comes to the city ofEgnatia, which is the common stopping-place for people who are travelling either by sea or land toBarium; and the voyage is made with the south wind. The country of thePeucetii extends only thus far on the sea, but in the interior as far asSilvium. All of it is rugged and mountainous, since it embraces a large portion of theApennine Mountains; and it is thought to have admittedArcadians as colonists. FromBrentesium toBarium is about seven hundred stadia, andTaras is about an equal distance from each. The adjacent country is inhabited by theDaunii; and then come theApuli, whose country extends as far as that of theFrentani. But since the terms "Peucetii" and "Daunii" are not at all used by the native inhabitants, except in early times, and since this country as a whole is now calledApulia, necessarily the boundaries of these tribes cannot be told to a nicety either, and for this reason neither should I myself make positive assertions about them.
§ 6.3.9 FromBarium to theAufidus River, on which is the Emporium of theCanusitae is four hundred stadia and the voyage inland to Emporium is ninety. Near by is alsoSalapia, the seaport of theArgyrippini. For not far above the sea (in the plain, at all events) are situated two cities,Canusium andArgyrippa, which in earlier times were the largest of the Italiote cities, as is clear from the circuits of their walls. Now, however,Argyrippa is smaller; it was calledArgos Hippium at first, then Argyrippa, and then by the present nameArpi. Both are said to have been founded byDiomedes. And as signs of the dominion ofDiomedes in these regions are to be seen the Plain ofDiomedes and many other things, among which are the old votive offerings in the sanctuary ofAthene atLuceria — a place which likewise was in ancient times a city of theDaunii, but is now reduced — and, in the sea near by, two islands that are called theIslands of Diomedes, of which one is inhabited, while the other, it is said, is desert; on the latter, according to certain narrators of myths,Diomedes was caused to disappear, and his companions were changed to birds, and to this day, in fact, remain tame and live a sort of human life, not only in their orderly ways but also in their tameness towards honorable men and in their flight from wicked and knavish men. But I have already mentioned the stories constantly told among theHeneti about this hero and the rites which are observed in his honor. It is thought thatSipus also was founded byDiomedes, which is about one hundred and forty stadia distant fromSalapia; at any rate it was named "Sepius" in Greek after the "sepia" that are cast ashore by the waves. BetweenSalapia andSipus is a navigable river, and also a large lake that opens into the sea; and the merchandise fromSipus, particularly grain, is brought down on both. InDaunia, on a hill by the name ofDrium, are to be seen two hero-temples: one, toCalchas, on the very summit, where those who consult the oracle sacrifice to his shade a black ram and sleep in the hide, and the other, toPodaleirius, down near the base of the hill, this sanctuary being about one hundred stadia distant from the sea; and from it flows astream which is a cure-all for diseases of animals. In front of this gulf is a promontory,Garganum, which extends towards the east for a distance of three hundred stadia into the high sea; doubling the headland, one comes to a small town, Urium, and off the headland are to be seen theIslands of Diomedes. This whole country produces everything in great quantity, and is excellent forhorses andsheep; but though the wool is softer than theTarantine, it is not so glossy. And the country is well sheltered, because the plains lie in hollows. According to some,Diomedes even tried to cut a canal as far as the sea, but left behind both this and the rest of his undertakings only half-finished, because he was summoned home and there ended his life. This is one account of him; but there is also a second, that he stayed here till the end of his life; and a third, the aforesaid mythical account, which tells of his disappearance in the island; and as a fourth one might set down the account of theHeneti, for they too tell a mythical story of how he in some way came to his end in their country, and they call it his apotheosis.
§ 6.3.10 Now the above distances are put down in accordance with the data ofArtemidorus; but according to the Chorographer, the distances fromBrentesium as far asGarganum amount to one hundred and sixty-five miles, whereas according toArtemidorus they amount to more; and thence toAncona two hundred and fifty-four miles according to the former, whereas according toArtemidorus the distance to theAesis River, which is nearAncona, is one thousand two hundred and fifty stadia, a much shorter distance.Polybius states that the distance fromIapygia has been marked out by miles, and that the distance to the city ofSena is five hundred and sixty-two miles, and thence toAquileia one hundred and seventy-eight. And they do not agree with the commonly accepted distance along theIllyrian coastline, from theCeraunian Mountains to the recess of theAdrias, since they represent this latter coasting voyage as over six thousand stadia, thus making it even longer than the former, although it is much shorter. However, every writer does not agree with every other, particularly about the distances, as I often say. As for myself, where it is possible to reach a decision, I set forth my opinion, but where it is not, I think that I should make known the opinions of others. And when I have no opinion of theirs, there is no occasion for surprise if I too have passed something by, especially when one considers the character of my subject; for I would not pass by anything important, while as for little things, not only do they profit one but slightly if known, but their omission escapes unnoticed, and detracts not at all, or else not much, from the completeness of the work.
§ 6.3.11 The intervening space, immediately after CapeGarganum, is taken up by a deep gulf; the people who live around it are called by the special name ofApuli, although they speak the same language as theDaunii and thePeucetii, and do not differ from them in any other respect either, at the present time at least, although it is reasonable to suppose that in early times they differed and that this is the source of the three diverse names for them that are now prevalent. In earlier times this whole country was prosperous, but it was laid waste byHannibal and the later wars. And here too occurred the battle ofCannae, in which the Romans and their allies suffered a very great loss of life. On the gulf is a lake; and above the lake, in the interior, isTeanum Apulum, which has the same name asTeanumSidicinum. At this point the breadth ofItaly seems to be considerably contracted, since from here to the region ofDicaearchia an isthmus is left of less than one thousand stadia from sea to sea. After the lake comes the voyage along the coast to the country of theFrentani and toBuca; and the distance from the lake either toBuca or to CapeGarganum is two hundred stadia. As for the places that come next afterBuca, I have already mentioned them.
§ 6.4.1 Such, indeed, is the size and such the character ofItaly. And while I have already mentioned many things which have caused the Romans at the present time to be exalted to so great a height, I shall now indicate the most important things. One is, that, like an island,Italy is securely guarded by the seas on all sides, except in a few regions, and even these are fortified by mountains that are hardly passable. A second is that along most of its coast it is harborless and that the harbors it does have are large and admirable. The former is useful in meeting attacks from the outside, while the latter is helpful in making counter-attacks and in promoting an abundant commerce. A third is that it is characterized by many differences of air and temperature, on which depend the greater variation, whether for better or for worse, in animals, plants, and, in short, everything that is useful for the support of life. Its length extends from north to south, generally speaking, andSicily counts as an addition to its length, already so great. Now mild temperature and harsh temperature of the air are judged by heat, cold, and their intermediates; and so from this it necessarily follows that what is nowItaly, situated as it is between the two extremes and extending to such a length, shares very largely in the temperate zone and in a very large number of ways. And the following is still another advantage which has fallen to the lot ofItaly; since theApennine Mountains extend through the whole of its length and leave on both sides plains and hills which bear fine fruits, there is no part of it which does not enjoy the blessings of both mountain and plain. And add also to this the size and number of its rivers and its lakes, and, besides these, the fountains of water, both hot and cold, which in many places nature has provided as an aid to health, and then again its good supply of mines of all sorts. Neither can one worthily describeItaly's abundant supply of fuel, and of food both for men and beast, and the excellence of its fruits. Further, since it lies intermediate between the largest races on the one hand, and Greece and the best parts ofLibya on the other, it not only is naturally well-suited to hegemony, because it surpasses the countries that surround it both in the valor of its people and in size, but also can easily avail itself of their services, because it is close to them.
§ 6.4.2 Now if I must add to my account ofItaly a summary account also of the Romans who took possession of it and equipped it as a base of operations for the universal hegemony, let me add as follows: After the founding ofRome, the Romans wisely continued for many generations under the rule of kings. Afterwards, because the lastTarquinius was a bad ruler, they ejected him, framed a government which was a mixture of monarchy and aristocracy, and dealt with theSabini andLatini as with partners. But since they did not always find either them or the other neighboring peoples well intentioned, they were forced, in a way, to enlarge their own country by the dismemberment of that of the others. And in this way, while they were advancing and increasing little by little, it came to pass, contrary to the expectation of all, that they suddenly lost their city, although they also got it back contrary to expectation. This took place, asPolybius says, in the nineteenth year after the naval battle atAegospotami, at the time of the Peace ofAntalcidas. After having rid themselves of these enemies, the Romans first made all theLatini their subjects; then stopped theTyrrheni and theCelti who lived about thePadus from their wide and unrestrained licence; then fought down theSamnitae, and, after them, theTarantini andPyrrhus; and then at last also the remainder of what is nowItaly, except the part that is about thePadus. And while this part was still in a state of war, the Romans crossed over toSicily, and on taking it away from theCarthaginians came back again to attack the peoples who lived about thePadus; and it was while that war was still in progress thatHannibal invadedItaly. This latter is the second war that occurred against theCarthaginians; and not long afterwards occurred the third, in whichCarthage was destroyed; and at the same time the Romans acquired, not onlyLibya, but also as much ofIberia as they had taken away from theCarthaginians. But the Greeks, theMacedonians, and those peoples inAsia who lived this side theHalys River and theTaurus Mountains joined theCarthaginians in a revolution, and therefore at the same time the Romans were led on to a conquest of these peoples, whose kings wereAntiochus,Philip, andPerseus. Further, those of theIllyrians andThracians who were neighbors to the Greeks and theMacedonians began to carry on war against the Romans and kept on warring until the Romans had subdued all the tribes this side theIster and this side theHalys. And theIberians, Celti, and all the remaining peoples which now give ear to the Romans had the same experience. As forIberia, the Romans did not stop reducing it by force of arms until they had subdued the of it, first, by driving out theNomantini, and, later on, by destroyingViriathus andSertorius, and, last of all, theCantabri, who were subdued byAugustus Caesar. As forCeltica (I meanCeltica as a whole, both theCisalpine and Transalpine, together with Liguria), the Romans at first brought it over to their side only part by part, from time to time, but later the DeifiedCaesar, and afterwardsAugustus Caesar, acquired it all at once in a general war. But at the present time the Romans are carrying on war against the Germans, setting out from theCeltic regions as the most appropriate base of operations, and have already glorified the fatherland with some triumphs over them. As forLibya, so much of it as did not belong to theCarthaginians was turned over to kings who were subject to the Romans, and, if they ever revolted, they were deposed. But at the present timeJuba has been invested with the rule, not only ofMaurusia, but also of many parts of the rest ofLibya, because of his loyalty and his friendship for the Romans. And the case ofAsia was like that ofLibya. At the outset it was administered through the agency of kings who were subject to the Romans, but from that time on, when their line failed, as was the case with theAttalic, Syrian,Paphlagonian,Cappadocian, andEgyptian kings, or when they would revolt and afterwards be deposed, as was the case withMithridates Eupator and theEgyptianCleopatra, all parts of it this side thePhasis and theEuphrates, except certain parts ofArabia, have been subject to the Romans and the rulers appointed by them. As for theArmenians, and the peoples who are situated aboveColchis, bothAlbanians andIberians, they require the presence only of men to lead them, and are excellent subjects, but because the Romans are engrossed by other affairs, they make attempts at revolution — as is the case with all the peoples who live beyond theIster in the neighborhood of theEuxine, except those in the region of theBosporus and the Nomads, for the people of theBosporus are in subjection, whereas the Nomads, on account of their lack of intercourse with others, are of no use for anything and only require watching. Also the remaining parts ofAsia, generally speaking, belong to the Tent-dwellers and the Nomads, who are very distant peoples. But as for theParthians, although they have a common border with the Romans and also are very powerful, they have nevertheless yielded so far to the preeminence of the Romans and of the rulers of our time that they have sent toRome the trophies which they once set up as a memorial of their victory over the Romans, and, what is more,Phraates has entrusted toAugustus Caesar his children and also his children's children, thus obsequiously making sure ofCaesar's friendship by giving hostages; and theParthians of today have often gone toRome in quest of a man to be their king, and are now about ready to put their entire authority into the hands of the Romans. As forItaly itself, though it has often been torn by factions, at least since it has been under the Romans, and as forRome itself, they have been prevented by the excellence of their form of government and of their rulers from proceeding too far in the ways of error and corruption. But it were a difficult thing to administer so great a dominion otherwise than by turning it over to one man, as to a father; at all events, never have the Romans and their allies thrived in such peace and plenty as that which was afforded them byAugustus Caesar, from the time he assumed the absolute authority, and is now being afforded them by his son and successor,Tiberius, who is makingAugustus the model of his administration and decrees, as are his children,Germanicus andDrusus, who are assisting their father.
§ 7.1.1 Now that I have describedIberia and theCeltic andItalian tribes, along with the islands near by, it will be next in order to speak of the remaining parts of Europe, dividing them in the approved manner. The remaining parts are: first, those towards the east, being those which are across theRhenus and extend as far as theTanais and the mouth of LakeMaeotis, and also all those regions lying between theAdrias and the regions on the left of thePontic Sea that are shut off by theIster and extend towards the south as far as Greece and thePropontis;5 for this river divides very nearly the whole of the aforesaid land into two parts. It is the largest of the European rivers, at the outset flowing towards the south and then turning straight from the west towards the east and thePontus. It rises in the western limits ofGermania, as also near the recess of theAdriatic (at a distance from it of about one thousand stadia), and comes to an end at thePontus not very far from the outlets of theTyras and theBorysthenes, bending from its easterly course approximately towards the north. Now the parts that are beyond theRhenus andCeltica are to the north of theIster; these are the territories of the Galatic and the Germanic tribes, extending as far as theBastarnians and theTyregetans and the RiverBorysthenes. And the territories of all the tribes between this river and theTanais and the mouth of LakeMaeotis extend up into the interior as far as the ocean and are washed by thePontic Sea. But both theIllyrian and the Thracian tribes, and all tribes of theCeltic or other peoples that are mingled with these, as far as Greece, are to the south of theIster. But let me first describe the parts outside theIster, for they are much simpler than those on the other side.
§ 7.1.2 Now the parts beyond theRhenus, immediately after the country of theCelti, slope towards the east and are occupied by the Germans, who, though they vary slightly from theCeltic stock in that they are wilder, taller, and have yellower hair, are in all other respects similar, for in build, habits, and modes of life they are such as I have said theCelti are. And I also think that it was for this reason that the Romans assigned to them the name "Germani," as though they wished to indicate thereby that they were "genuine" Galatae, for in the language of the Romans "germani" means "genuine."
§ 7.1.3 The first parts of this country are those that are next to theRhenus, beginning at its source and extending a far as its outlet; and this stretch of river-land taken as a whole is approximately the breadth of the country on its western side. Some of the tribes of this river-land were transferred by the Romans toCeltica, whereas the others anticipated the Romans by migrating deep into the country, for instance, theMarsi; and only a few people, including a part of theSugambri, are left. After the people who live along the river come the other tribes that live between theRhenus and the RiverAlbis, and traverses no less territory than the former. Between the two are other navigable rivers also (among them theAmasias, on whichDrusus won a naval victory over theBructeri), which likewise flow from the south towards the north and the ocean; for the country is elevated towards the south and forms a mountain chain that connects with theAlps and extends towards the east as though it were a part of theAlps; and in truth some declare that they actually are a part of theAlps, both because of their aforesaid position and of the fact that they produce the same timber; however, the country in this region does not rise to a sufficient height for that. Here, too, is theHercynian Forest, and also the tribes of theSuevi, some of which dwell inside the forest, as, for instance, the tribes of theColdui, in whose territory is Boihaemum, the domain of Marabodus, the place whither he caused to migrate, not only several other peoples, but in particular theMarcomanni, his fellow-tribesmen; for after his return fromRome this man, who before had been only a private citizen, was placed in charge of the affairs of state, for, as a youth he had been atRome and had enjoyed the favor ofAugustus, and on his return he took the rulership and acquired, in addition to the peoples aforementioned, theLugii (a large tribe), theZumi, theButones, theMugilones, theSibini, and also theSemnones, a large tribe of theSuevi themselves. However, while some of the tribes of theSuevi dwell inside the forest, as I was saying, others dwell outside of it, and have a common boundary with theGetae. Now as for the tribe of theSuevi, it is the largest, for it extends from theRhenus to theAlbis; and a part of them even dwell on the far side of theAlbis, as, for instance, theHermondori and theLangobardi; and at the present time these latter, at least, have, to the last man, been driven in flight out of their country into the land on the far side of the river. It is a common characteristic of all the peoples in this part of the world that they migrate with ease, because of the meagerness of their livelihood and because they do not till the soil or even store up food, but live in small huts that are merely temporary structures; and they live for the most part off their flocks, as the Nomads do, so that, in imitation of the Nomads, they load their household belongings on their wagons and with their beasts turn whithersoever they think best. But other German tribes are still more indigent. I mean theCherusci, theChatti, theGamabrivii and theChattuarii, and also, near the ocean, theSugambri, theChaubi, theBructeri, and theCimbri, and also theCauci, theCaulci, theCampsiani, and several others. Both theVisurgis and theLupias Rivers run in the same direction as theAmasias, theLupias being about six hundred stadia distant from theRhenus and flowing through the country of the LesserBructeri.Germania has also theSalas River; and it was between theSalas and theRhenus thatDrusus Germanicus, while he was successfully carrying on the war, came to his end. He had subjugated, not only most of the tribes, but also the islands along the coast, among which is Burchanis, which he took by siege.
§ 7.1.4 These tribes have become known through their wars with the Romans, in which they would either yield and then later revolt again, or else quit their settlements; and they would have been better known ifAugustus had allowed his generals to cross theAlbis in pursuit of those who emigrated thither. But as a matter of fact he supposed that he could conduct the war in hand more successfully if he should hold off from those outside theAlbis, who were living in peace, and should not incite them to make common cause with the others in their enmity against him. It was theSugambri, who live near theRhenus, that began the war,Melo being their leader; and from that time on different peoples at different times would cause a breach, first growing powerful and then being put down, and then revolting again, betraying both the hostages they had given and their pledges of good faith. In dealing with these peoples distrust has been a great advantage, whereas those who have been trusted have done the greatest harm, as, for instance, theCherusci and their subjects, in whose country three Roman legions, with their generalQuintilius Varus, were destroyed by ambush in violation of the treaty. But they all paid the penalty, and afforded the youngerGermanicus a most brilliant triumph — that triumph in which their most famous men and women were led captive, I meanSegimuntus, son ofSegestes and chieftain of theCherusci, and his sisterThusnelda, the wife ofArmenius, the man who at the time of the violation of the treaty againstQuintilius Varus was commander-in-chief of theCheruscan army and even to this day is keeping up the war, andThusnelda's three-year-old son Thumelicus; and also Sesithacus, the son of Segimerus and chieftain of theCherusci, and Rhamis, his wife, and a daughter of Ucromirus chieftain of theChatti, and Deudorix, aSugambrian, the son of Baetorix the brother ofMelo. ButSegestes, the father-in-law ofArmenius, who even from the outset had opposed the purpose ofArmenius, and, taking advantage of an opportune time, had deserted him, was present as a guest of honor at the triumph over his loved ones. And Libes too, a priest of theChatti, marched in the procession, as also other captives from the plundered tribes — theCaulci, Campsani,Bructeri,Usipi,Cherusci,Chatti,Chattuarii, Landi, Tubattii. Now theRhenus is about three thousand stadia distant from theAlbis, if one had straight roads to travel on, but as it is one must go by a circuitous route, which winds through a marshy country and forests.
§ 7.1.5 TheHercynian Forest is not only rather dense, but also has large trees, and comprises a large circuit within regions that are fortified by nature; in the center of it, however, lies a country (of which I have already spoken) that is capable of affording an excellent livelihood. And near it are the sources of both theIster and theRhenus, as also the lake between the two sources, and the marshes into which theRhenus spreads. The perimeter of the lake is more than three hundred stadia, while the passage across it is nearly two hundred. There is also an island in it whichTiberius used as a base of operations in his naval battle with theVindelici. This lake is south of the sources of theIster, as is also theHercynian Forest, so that necessarily, in going fromCeltica to theHercynian Forest, one first crosses the lake and then theIster, and from there on advances through more passable regions — plateaus — to the forest.Tiberius had proceeded only a day's journey from the lake when he saw the sources of theIster. The country of theRhaeti adjoins the lake for only a short distance, whereas that of theHelvetii and theVindelici, and also the desert of theBoii, adjoin the greater part of it. All the peoples as far as thePannonii, but more especially theHelvetii and theVindelici, inhabit plateaus. But the countries of theRhaeti and theNorici extend as far as the passes over theAlps and verge towardItaly, a part thereof bordering on the country of theInsubri and a part on that of theCarni and the legions aboutAquileia. And there is also another large forest, Gabreta; it is on this side of the territory of theSuevi, whereas theHercynian Forest, which is also held by them, is on the far side.
§ 7.2.1 As for theCimbri, some things that are told about them are incorrect and others are extremely improbable. For instance, one could not accept such a reason for their having become a wandering andpiratical folk as this — that while they were dwelling on a Peninsula they were driven out of their habitations by a great flood-tide; for in fact they still hold the country which they held in earlier times; and they sent as a present toAugustus the most sacred kettle in their country, with a plea for his friendship and for an amnesty of their earlier offences, and when their petition was granted they set sail for home; and it is ridiculous to suppose that they departed from their homes because they were incensed on account of a phenomenon that is natural and eternal, occurring twice every day. And the assertion that an excessive flood-tide once occurred looks like a fabrication, for when the ocean is affected in this way it is subject to increases and diminutions, but these are regulated and periodical. And the man who said that theCimbri took up arms against the flood-tides was not right, either; nor yet the statement that theCelti, as a training in the virtue of fearlessness, meekly abide the destruction of their homes by the tides and then rebuild them, and that they suffer a greater loss of life as the result of water than of war, asEphorus says. Indeed, the regularity of the flood-tides and the fact that the part of the country subject to inundations was known should have precluded such absurdities; for since this phenomenon occurs twice every day, it is of course improbable that theCimbri did not so much as once perceive that the reflux was natural and harmless, and that it occurred, not in their country alone, but in every country that was on the ocean. Neither isCleitarchus right; for he says that the horsemen, on seeing the onset of the sea, rode away, and though in full flight came very near being cut off by the water. Now we know, in the first place, that the invasion of the tide does not rush on with such speed as that, but that the sea advances imperceptibly; and, secondly, that what takes place daily and is audible to all who are about to draw near it, even before they behold it, would not have been likely to prompt in them such terror that they would take to flight, as if it had occurred unexpectedly.
§ 7.2.2 Poseidonius is right in censuring the historians for these assertions, and his conjecture is not a bad one, that theCimbri, being apiratical and wandering folk, made an expedition even as far as the region of LakeMaeotis, and that also the "Cimmerian"Bosporus was named after them, being equivalent to "Cimbrian," the Greeks naming theCimbri "Cimmerii." And he goes off to say that in earlier times theBoii dwelt in theHercynian Forest, and that theCimbri made a sally against this place, but on being repulsed by theBoii, went down to theIster and the country of theScordiscan Galatae, then to the country of theTeuristae andTaurisci (these, too, Galatae), and then to the country of theHelvetii — men rich in gold but peaceable; however, when theHelvetii saw that the wealth which theCimbri had got from their robberies surpassed that of their own country, they, and particularly their tribes of Tigyreni and of Toygeni, were so excited that they sallied forth with theCimbri. All, however, were subdued by the Romans, both theCimbri themselves and those who had joined their expeditions, in part after they had crossed theAlps intoItaly and in part while still on the other side of theAlps.
§ 7.2.3 Writers report a custom of theCimbri to this effect: Their wives, who would accompany them on their expeditions, were attended by priestesses who were seers; these were grey-haired, clad in white, with flaxen cloaks fastened on with clasps, girt with girdles of bronze, and bare-footed; now sword in hand these priestesses would meet with the prisoners of war throughout the camp, and having first crowned them with wreaths would lead them to a brazen vessel of about twenty amphorae; and they had a raised platform which the priestess would mount, and then, bending over the kettle, would cut the throat of each prisoner after he had been lifted up; and from the blood that poured forth into the vessel some of the priestesses would draw a prophecy, while still others would split open the body and from an inspection of the entrails would utter a prophecy of victory for their own people; and during the battles they would beat on the hides that were stretched over the wicker-bodies of the wagons and in this way produce an unearthly noise.
§ 7.2.4 Of the Germans, as I have said, those towards the north extend along the ocean; and beginning at the outlets of theRhenus, they are known as far as theAlbis; and of these the best known are theSugambri and theCimbri; but those parts of the country beyond theAlbis that are near the ocean are wholly unknown to us. For of the men of earlier times I know of no one who has made this voyage along the coast to the eastern parts that extend as far as the mouth of theCaspian Sea; and the Romans have not yet advanced into the parts that are beyond theAlbis; and likewise no one has made the journey by land either. However, it is clear from the "climata" and the parallel distances that if one travels longitudinally towards the east, one encounters the regions that are about theBorysthenes and that are to the north of thePontus; but what is beyondGermania and what beyond the countries which are next afterGermania — whether one should say theBastarnae, as most writers suspect, or say that others lie in between, either theIazyges, or theRoxolani, or certain other of the wagon-dwellers — it is not easy to say; nor yet whether they extend as far as the ocean along its entire length, or whether any part is uninhabitable by reason of the cold or other cause, or whether even a different race of people, succeeding the Germans, is situated between the sea and the eastern Germans. And this same ignorance prevails also in regard to the rest of the peoples that come next in order on the north; for I know neither theBastarnae, nor theSauromatae, nor, in a word, any of the peoples who dwell above thePontus, nor how far distant they are from theAtlantic Sea, nor whether their countries border upon it.
§ 7.3.1 Getae As for the southern part ofGermania beyond theAlbis, the portion which is just contiguous to that river is occupied by theSuevi; then immediately adjoining this is the land of theGetae, which, though narrow at first, stretching as it does along theIster on its southern side and on the opposite side along the mountain-side of theHercynian Forest (for the land of theGetae also embraces a part of the mountains), afterwards broadens out towards the north as far as theTyregetae; but I cannot tell the precise boundaries. It is because of men's ignorance of these regions that any heed has been given to those who created the mythical "Rhipaean Mountains" and "Hyperboreans," and also to all those false statements made byPytheas theMassalian regarding the country along the ocean, wherein he uses as a screen his scientific knowledge of astronomy and mathematics. So then, those men should be disregarded; in fact, if evenSophocles, when in his role as a tragic poet he speaks ofOreithyia, tells how she was snatched up by "Boreas" and carried "over the whole sea to the ends of the earth and to the sources of night and to the unfoldings of heaven and to the ancient garden ofPhoebus," his story can have no bearing on the present inquiry, but should be disregarded, just as it is disregarded bySocrates in thePhaedrus. But let us confine our narrative to what we have learned from history, both ancient and modern.
§ 7.3.2 Now the Greeks used to suppose that theGetae wereThracians; and theGetae lived on either side theIster, as did also theMysi, these also beingThracians and identical with the people who are now called Moesi; from theseMysi sprang also theMysi who now live between theLydians and thePhrygians andTrojans. And thePhrygians themselves are Brigians, a Thracian tribe, as are also theMygdonians, theBebricians, theMedobithynians, theBithynians, and theThynians, and, I think, also theMariandynians. These peoples, to be sure, have all utterly quitted Europe, but theMysi have remained there. AndPoseidonius seems to me to be correct in his conjecture thatHomer designates theMysi in Europe (I mean those inThrace) when he says, "But back he turned his shining eyes, and looked far away towards the land of the horsetendingThracians, and of theMysi, hand-to-hand fighters" for surely, if one should takeHomer to mean theMysi inAsia, the statement would not hang together. Indeed, whenZeus turns his eyes away from theTrojans towards the land of theThracians, it would be the act of a man who confuses the continents and does not understand the poet's phraseology to connect withThrace the land of the AsiaticMysi, who are not "far away," but have a common boundary with theTroad and are situated behind it and on either side of it, and are separated fromThrace by the broadHellespont; for "back he turned" generally means "to the rear," and he who transfers his gaze from theTrojans to the people who are either in the rear of theTrojans or on their flanks, does indeed transfer his gaze rather far, but not at all "to the rear." Again, the appended phrase is testimony to this very view, because the poet connected with theMysi the "Hippemolgi" and "Galactophagi" and "Abii," who are indeed the wagon-dwellingScythians andSarmatians. For at the present time these tribes, as well as theBastarnian tribes, are mingled with theThracians (more indeed with those outside theIster, but also with those inside). And mingled with them are also theCeltic tribes — theBoii, theScordisci, and theTaurisci. However, theScordisci are by some called "Scordistae"; and theTaurisci are called also "Ligurisci" and "Tauristae."
§ 7.3.3 Poseidonius goes on to say of theMysians that in accordance with their religion they abstain from eating any living thing, and therefore from their flocks as well; and that they use as food honey and milk and cheese, living a peaceable life, and for this reason are called both "god-fearing" and "capnobatae"; and there are some of theThracians who live apart from woman-kind; these are called "Ctistae," and because of the honor in which they are held, have been dedicated to the gods and live with freedom from every fear; accordingly,Homer speaks collectively of all these peoples as "proudHippemolgi,Galactophagi andAbii, men most just," but he calls them "Abii" more especially for this reason, that they live apart from women, since he thinks that a life which is bereft of woman is only half-complete (just as he thinks the "house ofProtesilaus" is only "half complete," because it is so bereft); and he speaks of theMysians as "hand-to-hand fighters" because they were indomitable, as is the case with all brave warriors; andPoseidonius adds that in the Thirteenth Book one should read "Moesi, hand-to-hand fighters" instead of "Mysi, hand-to-hand fighters."
§ 7.3.4 However, it is perhaps superfluous to disturb the reading that has had approval for so many years; for it is much more credible that the people were calledMysi at first and that later their name was changed to what it is now. And as for the term "Abii," one might interpret it as meaning those who are "without hearth: "and "live on wagons" quite as well as those who are "bereft"; for since, in general, injustices arise only in connection with contracts and a too high regard for property, so it is reasonable that those who, like theAbii, live cheaply, on slight resources, should have been called "most just." In fact, the philosophers who put justice next to self-restraint strive above all things for frugality and personal independence; and consequently extreme self-restraint diverts some of them to the Cynical mode of life. But as for the statement that they live "bereft of women," the poet suggests nothing of the sort, and particularly in the country of theThracians and of those of their number who areGetae. And see the statement ofMenander about them, which, as one may reasonably suppose, was not invented by him but taken from history: "All theThracians, and most of all weGetae (for I too boast that I am of this stock) are not very continent;" and a little below he sets down the proofs of their incontinence in their relations with women: "For every man of us marries ten or eleven women, and some, twelve or more; but if anyone meets death before he has married more than four or five, he is lamented among the people there as a wretch without bride and nuptial song." Indeed, these facts are confirmed by the other writers as well. Further, it is not reasonable to suppose that the same people regard as wretched a life without many women, and yet at the same time regard as pious and just a life that is wholly bereft of women. And of course to regard as "both god-fearing and capnobatae" those who are without women is very much opposed to the common notions on that subject; for all agree in regarding the women as the chief founders of religion, and it is the women who provoke the men to the more attentive worship of the gods, to festivals, and to supplications, and it is a rare thing for a man who lives by himself to be found addicted to these things. See again what the same poet says when he introduces as speaker the man who is vexed by the money spent by the women in connection with the sacrifices: "The gods are the undoing of us, especially us married men, for we must always be celebrating some festival;" and again when he introduces the Woman-hater, who complains about these very things: "we used to sacrifice five times a day, and seven female attendants would beat the cymbals all round us, while others would cry out to the gods." So, then, the interpretation that the wifeless men of theGetae are in a special way reverential towards the gods is clearly contrary to reason, whereas the interpretation that zeal for religion is strong in this tribe, and that because of their reverence for the gods the people abstain from eating any living thing, is one which, both from whatPoseidonius and from what the histories in general tell us, should not be disbelieved.
§ 7.3.5 In fact, it is said that a certain man of theGetae,Zamolxis by name, had been a slave toPythagoras, and had learned some things about the heavenly bodies from him, as also certain other things from theEgyptians, for in his wanderings he had gone even as far asEgypt; and when he came on back to his home-land he was eagerly courted by the rulers and the people of the tribe, because he could make predictions from the celestial signs; and at last he persuaded the king to take him as a partner in the government, on the ground that he was competent to report the will of the gods; and although at the outset he was only made a priest of the god who was most honored in their country, yet afterwards he was even addressed as god, and having taken possession of a certain cavernous place that was inaccessible to anyone else he spent his life there, only rarely meeting with any people outside except the king and his own attendants; and the king cooperated with him, because he saw that the people paid much more attention to himself than before, in the belief that the decrees which he promulgated were in accordance with the counsel of the gods. This custom persisted even down to our own time, because some man of that character was always to be found, who, though in fact only a counsellor to the king, was called god among theGetae. And the people took up the notion that the mountain was sacred and they so call it, but its name is Cogaeonum, like that of the river which flows past it. So, too, at the time whenByrebistas, against whom already the DeifiedCaesar had prepared to make an expedition, was reigning over theGetae, the office in question was held byDecaeneus, and somehow or other thePythagorean doctrine of abstention from eating any living thing still survived as taught byZamolxis.
§ 7.3.6 Now although such difficulties as these might fairly be raised concerning what is found in the text ofHomer about theMysians and the "proudHippemolgi," yet whatApollodorus states in the preface to the Second Book of his work On Ships can by no means be asserted; for he approves the declaration ofEratosthenes, that although bothHomer and the other early authors knew the Greek places, they were decidedly unacquainted with those that were far away, since they had no experience either in making long journeys by land or in making voyages by sea. And in support of thisApollodorus says thatHomer callsAulis "rocky" (and so it is), andEteonus "place of many ridges," andThisbe "haunt of doves," andHaliartus "grassy," but, he says, neitherHomer nor the others knew the places that were far away. At any rate, he says, although about forty rivers now into thePontus,Homer mentions not a single one of those that are the most famous, as, for example, theIster, theTanais, theBorysthenes, theHypanis, thePhasis, theThermodon, theHalys; and, besides, he does not mention theScythians, but invents certain "proudHippemolgi" and "Galactophagi" and "Abii"; and as for thePaphlagonians of the interior, he reports what he has learned from those who have approached the regions afoot, but he is ignorant of the seaboard, and naturally so, for at that time this sea was not navigable, and was called Axine because of its wintry storms and the ferocity of the tribes that lived around it, and particularly theScythians, in that they sacrificed strangers, ate their flesh, and used their skulls as drinking-cups; but later it was called "Euxine," when theIonians founded cities on the seaboard. And, likewise,Homer is also ignorant of the facts aboutEgypt andLibya, as, for example, about the risings of theNile and the silting up of the sea, things which he nowhere mentions; neither does he mention the isthmus between theErythraean Sea and theEgyptian Seas, nor the regions ofArabia andEthiopia and the ocean, unless one should give heed toZeno the philosopher when he writes, "And I came to theEthiopians andSidonians andArabians." 9 But this ignorance inHomer's case is not amazing, for those who have lived later than he have been ignorant of many things and have invented marvellous tales:Hesiod, when he speaks of "men who are half-dog," of "long-headed men," and of "Pygmies"; andAlcman, when he speaks of "web footed men"; andAeschylus, when he speaks of "dog-headed men," of "men with eyes in their breasts", and of "one-eyed men" (in hisPrometheus it is said); and a host of other tales. From these men he proceeds against the historians who speak of the "Rhipaean Mountains," and of "Mt. Ogyium," and of the settlement of theGorgons andHesperides, and of the "Land of Meropis" inTheopompus, and the "City of Cimmeris" inHecataeus, and the "Land ofPanchaea" inEuhemerus, and inAristotle "the river-stones, which are formed of sand but are melted by the rains." And inLibya,Apollodorus continues, there is a "City ofDionysus" which it is impossible for the same man ever to find twice. He censures also those who speak of the Homeric wanderings ofOdysseus as having been in the neighborhood ofSicily; for in that case, says he, one should go on and say that, although the wanderings took place there, the poet, for the sake of mythology, placed them out inOceanus. And, he adds, the writers in general can be pardoned, butCallimachus cannot be pardoned at all, because he makes a pretence of being a scholar; for he callsGaudos the "Isle ofCalypso" andCorcyra "Scheria." And others he charges with falsifying about "Gerena," and "Aeacesium," and "Demus" inIthaca, and about "Pelethronium" inPelion, and about Glaucopium inAthens. To these criticismsApollodorus adds some petty ones of like sort and then stops, but he borrowed most of them fromEratosthenes, and as I have remarked before they are wrong. For while one must concede toEratosthenes andApollodorus that the later writers have shown themselves better acquainted with such matters than the men of early times, yet to proceed beyond all moderation as they do, and particularly in the case ofHomer, is a thing for which, as it seems to me, one might justly rebuke them and make the reverse statement: that where they are ignorant themselves, there they reproach the poet with ignorance. However, what remains to be said on this subject meets with appropriate mention in my detailed descriptions of the several countries, as also in my general description.
§ 7.3.7 Just now I was discussing theThracians, and the "Mysians, hand-to-hand fighters, and the proudHippemolgi,Galactophagi, andAbii, men most just," because I wished to make a comparison between the statements made byPoseidonius and myself and those made by the two men in question. Take first the fact that the argument which they have attempted is contrary to the proposition which they set out to prove; for although they set out to prove that the men of earlier times were more ignorant of regions remote from Greece than the men of more recent times, they showed the reverse, not only in regard to regions remote, but also in regard to places in Greece itself. However, as I was saying, let me put off everything else and look to what is now before me: they say that the poet through ignorance fails to mention theScythians, or their savage dealings with strangers, in that they sacrifice them, eat their flesh, and use their skulls as drinking-cups, although it was on account of theScythians that the Pontus was called "Axine," but that he invents certain "proudHippemolgi,Galactophagi, andAbii, men most just" — people that exist nowhere on earth, How, then, could they call the sea "Axine" if they did not know about the ferocity or about the people who were most ferocious? And these, of course, are theScythians. And were the people who lived beyond theMysians andThracians andGetae not also "Hippemolgi," not also "Galactophagi" and "Abii"? In fact, even now there are Wagon-dwellers and Nomads, so called, who live off their herds, and on milk and cheese, and particularly on cheese made from mare's milk, and know nothing about storing up food or about peddling merchandise either, except the exchange of wares for wares. How, then, could the poet be ignorant of theScythians if he called certain people "Hippemolgi andGalactophagi"? For that the people of his time were wont to call theScythians "Hippemolgi,"Hesiod, too, is witness in the words cited byEratosthenes: "TheEthiopians, theLigurians, and also theScythians,Hippemolgi." Now wherein is it to be wondered at that, because of the widespread injustice connected with contracts in our country,Homer called "most just" and "proud" those who by no means spend their lives on contracts and money-getting but actually possess all things in common except sword and drinking-cup, and above all things have their wives and their children in common, in the Platonic way?Aeschylus, too, is clearly pleading the cause of the poet when he says about theScythians: "But theScythians, law-abiding, eaters of cheese made of mare's milk." And this assumption even now still persists among the Greeks; for we regard theScythians the most straightforward of men and the least prone to mischief, as also far more frugal and independent of others than we are. And yet our mode of life has spread its change for the worse to almost all peoples, introducing amongst them luxury and sensual pleasures and, to satisfy these vices, base artifices that lead to innumerable acts of greed. So then, much wickedness of this sort has fallen on the barbarian peoples also, on the Nomads as well as the rest; for as the result of taking up a seafaring life they not only have become morally worse, indulging in the practice ofpiracy and of slaying strangers, but also, because of their intercourse with many peoples, have partaken of the luxury and the peddling habits of those peoples. But though these things seem to conduce strongly to gentleness of manner, they corrupt morals and introduce cunning instead of the straightforwardness which I just now mentioned.
§ 7.3.8 Those, however, who lived before our times, and particularly those who lived near the time ofHomer, were — and among the Greeks were assumed to be — some such people asHomer describes. And see whatHerodotus says concerning that king of theScythians against whomDareius made his expedition, and the message which the king sent back to him. See also whatChrysippus says concerning the kings of theBosporus, the house ofLeuco. And not only thePersian letters are full of references to that straightforwardness of which I am speaking but also the memoirs written by theEgyptians,Babylonians, andIndians. And it was on this account thatAnacharsis,Abaris, and other men of the sort were in fair repute among the Greeks, because they displayed a nature characterized by complacency, frugality, and justice. But why should I speak of the men of olden times? For whenAlexander, the son ofPhilip, on his expedition against theThracians beyond theHaemus, invaded the country of theTriballians and saw that it extended as far as theIster and the island ofPeuce in theIster, and that the parts on the far side were held by theGetae, he went as far as that, it is said, but could not disembark upon the island because of scarcity of boats (forSyrmus, the king of theTriballi had taken refuge there and resisted his attempts); he did, however, cross over to the country of theGetae, took their city, and returned with all speed to his home-land, after receiving gifts from the tribes in question and fromSyrmus. AndPtolemaeus, the son ofLagus, says that on this expedition theCelti who lived about theAdriatic joinedAlexander for the sake of establishing friendship and hospitality, and that the king received them kindly and asked them when drinking what it was that they most feared, thinking they would say himself, but that they replied they feared no one, unless it were that Heaven might fall on them, although indeed they added that they put above everything else the friendship of such a man as he. And the following are signs of the straightforwardness of the barbarians: first, the fact thatSyrmus refused to consent to the debarkation upon the island and yet sent gifts and made a compact of friendship; and, secondly, that theCelti said that they feared no one, and yet valued above everything else the friendship of great men. Again,Dromichaetes was king of theGetae in the time of the successors ofAlexander. Now he, when he capturedLysimachus alive, who had made an expedition against him, first pointed out the poverty both of himself and of his tribe and likewise their independence of others, and then bade him not to carry on war with people of that sort but rather to deal with them as friends; and after saying this he first entertained him as a guest, and made a compact of friendship, and then released him. Moreover,Plato in his Republic thinks that those who would have a well-governed city should flee as far as possible from the sea, as being a thing that teaches wickedness, and should not live near it.
§ 7.3.9 Ephorus, in the fourth book of his history, the book entitled Europe (for he made the circuit of Europe as far as theScythians), says towards the end that the modes of life both of theSauromatae and of the otherScythians are unlike, for, whereas some are so cruel that they even eat human beings, others abstain from eating any living creature whatever. Now the other writers, he says, tell only about their savagery, because they know that the terrible and the marvellous are startling, but one should tell the opposite facts too and make them patterns of conduct, and he himself, therefore, will tell only about those who follow "most just" habits, for there are some of theScythian Nomads who feed only on mare's milk, and excel all men in justice; and they are mentioned by the poets: byHomer, when he says thatZeus espies the land "of theGalactophagi andAbii, men most just," and byHesiod, in what is called his Circuit of theEarth, when he says thatPhineus is carried by the Storm Winds "to the land of theGalactophagi, who have their dwellings in wagons." ThenEphorus reasons out the cause as follows: since they are frugal in their ways of living and not money-getters, they not only are orderly towards one another, because they have all things in common, their wives, children, the whole of their kin and everything, but also remain invincible and unconquered by outsiders, because they have nothing to be enslaved for. And he citesChoerilus also, who, in his The Crossing of the Pontoon-Bridge which was constructed byDareius, says, "thesheep-tendingSacae, ofScythian stock; but they used to live in wheat-producingAsia; however, they were colonists from the Nomads, law-abiding people." And when he callsAnacharsis "wise,"Ephorus says that he belongs to this race, and that he was considered also one ofSeven Wise Men because of his perfect self-control and good sense. And he goes on to tell the inventions ofAnacharsis — the bellows, the two-fluked anchor and the potter's wheel. These things I tell knowing full well thatEphorus himself does not tell the whole truth about everything; and particularly in his account ofAnacharsis (for how could the wheel be his invention, ifHomer, who lived in earlier times, knew of it? "As when a potter his wheel that fits in his hands," and so on); but as for those other things, I tell them because I wish to make my point clear that there actually was a common report, which was believed by the men of both early and of later times, that a part of the Nomads, I mean those who had settled the farthest away from the rest of mankind, were "galactophagi," "abii," and "most just," and that they were not an invention ofHomer.
§ 7.3.10 It is but fair, too, to askApollodorus to account for theMysians that are mentioned in the verses ofHomer, whether he thinks that these too are inventions (when the poet says, "and theMysians, hand-to-hand fighters and the proudHippemolgi"), or takes the poet to mean theMysians inAsia. Now if he takes the poet to mean those inAsia, he will misinterpret him, as I have said before, but if he calls them an invention, meaning that there were noMysians inThrace, he will contradict the facts; for at any rate, even in our own times,Aelius Catus transplanted from the country on the far side of theIster intoThrace fifty thousand persons from among theGetae, a tribe with the same tongue as theThracians. And they live there inThrace now and are called "Moesi" — whether it be that their people of earlier times were so called and that inAsia the name was changed to "Mysi," or (what is more apposite to history and the declaration of the poet) that in earlier times their people inThrace were called "Mysi." Enough, however, on this subject. I shall now go back to the next topic in the general description.
§ 7.3.11 As for theGetae, then, their early history must be left untold, but that which pertains to our own times is about as follows:Boerebistas a Getan, on setting himself in authority over the tribe, restored the people, who had been reduced to an evil plight by numerous wars, and raised them to such a height through training, sobriety, and obedience to his commands that within only a few years he had established a great empire and subordinated to theGetae most of the neighboring peoples. And he began to be formidable even to the Romans, because he would cross theIster with impunity and plunderThrace as far asMacedonia and theIllyrian country; and he not only laid waste the country of theCelti who were intermingled with theThracians and theIllyrians, but actually caused the complete disappearance of theBoii who were under the rule ofCritasirus, and also of theTaurisci. To help him secure the complete obedience of his tribe he had as his coadjutorDecaeneus, a wizard, a man who not only had wandered throughEgypt, but also had thoroughly learned certain prognostics through which he would pretend to tell the divine will; and within a short time he was set up as god (as I said when relating the story ofZamolxis). The following is an indication of their complete obedience: they were persuaded to cut down their vines and to live without wine. However, certain men rose up againstBoerebistas and he was deposed before the Romans sent an expedition against him; and those who succeeded him divided the empire into several parts. In fact, only recently, whenAugustus Caesar sent an expedition against them, the number of parts into which the empire had been divided was five, though at the time of the insurrection it had been four. Such divisions, to be sure, are only temporary and vary with the times.
§ 7.3.12 But there is also another division of the country which has endured from early times, for some of the people are calledDaci, whereas others are calledGetae —Getae, those who incline towards thePontus and the east, andDaci, those who incline in the opposite direction towardsGermania and the sources of theIster. TheDaci, I think, were called Dai in early times; whence the slave names "Geta" and "Daus" which prevailed among theAttic people; for this is more probable than that "Daus" is from thoseScythians who are called "Daae," for they live far away in the neighborhood ofHyrcania, and it is not reasonable to suppose that slaves were brought intoAttica from there; for theAttic people were wont either to call their slaves by the same names as those of the nations from which they were brought (as "Lydus" or "Syrus "), or addressed them by names that were prevalent in their countries (as "Manes" or else "Midas" for thePhrygian, or "Tibius" for thePaphlagonian). But though the tribe was raised to such a height byBoerebistas, it has been completely humbled by its own seditions and by the Romans; nevertheless, they are capable, even today, of sending forth an army of forty thousand men.
§ 7.3.13 The Marisus River flows through their country into theDanuvius, on which the Romans used to convey their equipment for war; the "Danuvius" I say, for so they used to call the upper part of the river from near its sources on to the cataracts, I mean the part which in the main flows through the country, of theDaci, although they give the name "Ister" to the lower part, from the cataracts on to thePontus, the part which flows past the country of theGetae. The language of theDaci is the same as that of theGetae. Among the Greeks, however, theGetae are better known because the migrations they make to either side of theIster are continuous, and because they are intermingled with theThracians andMysians. And also the tribe of theTriballi, likewise Thracian, has had this same experience, for it has admitted migrations into this country, because the neighboring peoples force them to emigrate into the country of those who are weaker; that is, theScythians andBastarnians andSauromatians on the far side of the river often prevail to the extent that they actually cross over to attack those whom they have already driven out, and some of them remain there, either in the islands or inThrace, whereas those on the other side are generally overpowered by theIllyrians. Be that as it may, although theGetae andDaci once attained to very great power, so that they actually could send forth an expedition of two hundred thousand men, they now find themselves reduced to as few as forty thousand, and they have come close to the point of yielding obedience to the Romans, though as yet they are not absolutely submissive, because of the hopes which they base on the Germans, who are enemies to the Romans.
§ 7.3.14 In the intervening space, facing that part of thePontic Sea which extends from theIster to theTyras, lies the Desert of theGetae, wholly flat and waterless, in whichDareius the son of Hystaspis was caught on the occasion when he crossed theIster to attack theScythians and ran the risk of perishing from thirst, army and all; however, he belatedly realized his error and turned back. And, later on,Lysimachus, in his expedition against theGetae and KingDromichaetes, not only ran the risk but actually was captured alive; but he again came off safely, because he found the barbarian kind-hearted, as I said before.
§ 7.3.15 Near the outlets of theIster River is a great island calledPeuce; and when theBastarnians took possession of it they received the appellation ofPeucini. There are still other islands which are much smaller; some of these are farther inland thanPeuce, while others are near the sea, for the river has seven mouths. The largest of these mouths is what is called the Sacred Mouth, on which one can sail inland a hundred and twenty stadia toPeuce. It was at the lower part ofPeuce thatDareius made his pontoon-bridge, although the bridge could have been constructed at the upper part also. The Sacred Mouth is the first mouth on the left as one sails into thePontus; the others come in order thereafter as one sails along the coast towards theTyras; and the distance from it to the seventh mouth is about three hundred stadia. Accordingly, small islands are formed between the mouths. Now the three mouths that come next in order after the Sacred Mouth are small, but the remaining mouths are much smaller than it, but larger than any one of the three. According toEphorus, however, theIster has only five months. Thence to theTyras, a navigable river, the distance is nine hundred stadia. And in the interval are two large lakes one of them opening into the sea, so that it can also be used as a harbor, but the other mouthless.
§ 7.3.16 At the mouth of theTyras is what is called the Tower ofNeoptolemus, and also what is called the village ofHermonax. And on sailing inland one hundred and forty stadia one comes to two cities, one on each side,Niconia on the right and Ophiussa on the left. But the people who live near the river speak of a city one hundred and twenty stadia inland. Again, at a distance of five hundred stadia from the mouth is the island calledLeuce, which lies in the high sea and is sacred toAchilles.
§ 7.3.17 Then comes theBorysthenes River, which is navigable for a distance of six hundred stadia; and, near it, another river, theHypanis, and off the mouth of theBorysthenes, an island with a harbor. On sailing up theBorysthenes two hundred stadia one comes to a city of the same name as the river, but the same city is also calledOlbia; it is a great trading center and was founded byMilesians. Now the whole country that lies above the said seaboard between theBorysthenes and theIster consists, first, of the Desert of theGetae; then the country of theTyregetans; and after it the country of theIazygianSarmatians and that of the people called the Basileians and that of theUrgi, who in general are nomads, though a few are interested also in farming; these people, it is said, dwell also along theIster, often on both sides. In the interior dwell, first, thoseBastarnians whose country borders on that of theTyregetans and Germans — they also being, one might say, of Germanic stock; and they are divided up into several tribes, for a part of them are called Atmoni and Sidoni, while those who took possession ofPeuce, the island in theIster, are called "Peucini," whereas the "Roxolani" (the most northerly of them all) roam the plains between theTanais and theBorysthenes. In fact, the whole country towards the north fromGermania as far as theCaspian Sea is, so far as we know it, a plain, but whether any people dwell beyond theRoxolani we do not know. Now theRoxolani, under the leadership of Tasius, carried on war even with the generals ofMithridates Eupator; they came for the purpose of assistingPalacus, the son ofScilurus, as his allies, and they had the reputation of being warlike; yet all barbarian races and light-armed peoples are weak when matched against a well-ordered and well-armed phalanx. At any rate, those people, about fifty thousand strong, could not hold out against the six thousand men arrayed withDiophantus, the general ofMithridates, and most of them were destroyed. They use helmets and corselets made of rawox-hides, carry wicker shields, and have for weapons spears, bow, and sword; and most of the other barbarians are armed in this way. As for the Nomads, their tents, made of felt, are fastened on the wagons in which they spend their lives; and round about the tents are the herds which afford the milk, cheese, and meat on which they live; and they follow the grazing herds, from time to time moving to other places that have grass, living only in the marsh-meadows about LakeMaeotis in winter, but also in the plains in summer.
§ 7.3.18 The whole of the country has severe winters as far as the regions by the sea that are between theBorysthenes and the mouth of LakeMaeotis; but of the regions themselves that are by the sea the most northerly are the mouth of theMaeotis and, still more northerly, the mouth of theBorysthenes, and the recess of the Gulf of Tamyraces, orCarcinites, which is the isthmus of the GreatChersonesus. The coldness of these regions, albeit the people live in plains, is evident, for they do not breedasses, an animal that is very sensitive to cold; and as for theircattle, some are born without horns, while the horns of others are filed off, for this part of the animal is sensitive to cold; and thehorses are small, whereas thesheep are large; and bronze water-jars burst and their contents freeze solid. But the severity of the frosts is most clearly evidenced by what takes place in the region of the mouth of LakeMaeotis: the waterway fromPanticapaion across toPhanagoria is traversed by wagons, so that it is both ice and roadway. And fish that become caught in the ice are obtained by digging with an implement called the "gangame," and particularly the antacaei, which are about the size ofdolphins. It is said ofNeoptolemus, the general ofMithridates, that in the same strait he overcame the barbarians in a naval engagement in summer and in a cavalry engagement in winter. And it is further said that the vine in theBosporus region is buried during the winter, the people heaping quantities of earth upon it. And it is said that the heat too becomes severe, perhaps because the bodies of the people are unaccustomed to it, or perhaps because no winds blow on the plains at that time, or else because the air, by reason of its density, becomes superheated (like the effect of the parhelia in the clouds). It appears thatAteas, who waged war withPhilip the son ofAmyntas, ruled over most of the barbarians in this part of the world.
§ 7.3.19 After the island that lies off theBorysthenes, and next towards the rising sun, one sails to the cape of theRacecourse of Achilles, which, though a treeless place, is called Alsos and is sacred toAchilles. Then comes theRacecourse of Achilles, a peninsula that lies flat on the sea; it is a ribbon-like stretch of land, as much as one thousand stadia in length, extending towards the east; its maximum breadth is only two stadia, and its minimum only four plethra, and it is only sixty stadia distant from the mainland that lies on either side of the neck. It is sandy, and water may be had by digging. The neck of the isthmus is near the center of the peninsula and is about forty stadia wide. It terminates in a cape calledTamyrace, which has a mooring-place that faces the mainland. And after this cape comes theCarcinites Gulf. It is a very large gulf, reaching up towards the north as far as one thousand stadia; some say, however, that the distance to its recess is three times as much. The people there are calledTaphrians. The gulf is also calledTamyrace, the same name as that of the cape.
§ 7.4.1 Chersonese Here is the isthmus which separates what is called LakeSapra from the sea; it is forty stadia in width and forms what is called theTauric, orScythian,Chersonese. Some, however, say that the breadth of the isthmus is three hundred and sixty stadia. But though LakeSapra is said to be as much as four thousand stadia, it is only a part, the western part, of LakeMaeotis, for it is connected with the latter by a wide mouth. It is very marshy and is scarcely navigable for sewn boats, for the winds readily uncover the shallow places and then cover them with water again, and therefore the marshes are impassable for the larger boats. The gulf contains three small islands, and also some shoals and a few reefs along the coast.
§ 7.4.2 As one sails out of the gulf, one comes, on the left, to a small city and another harbor belonging to theChersonesites. For next in order as one sails along the coast is a great cape which projects towards the south and is a part of theChersonesus as a whole; and on this cape is situated a city of the Heracleotae, a colony of theHeracleotae who live on thePontus, and this place itself is calledChersonesus, being distant as one sails along the coast four thousand four hundred stadia from theTyras. In this city is the sanctuary ofParthenos, a certain daimon; and the cape which is in front of the city, at a distance of one hundred stadia, is also named after this daimon, for it is called the Parthenium, and it has a temple andxoanon of her. Between the city and the cape are three harbors. Then comes the Old Chersonesus, which has been razed to the ground; and after it comes a narrow-mouthed harbor, where, generally speaking, theTauri, aScythian tribe, used to assemble their bands ofpirates in order to attack all who fled thither for refuge. It is called Symbolon Limen. This harbor forms with another harbor called Ctenus Limen an isthmus forty stadia in width; and this is the isthmus that encloses the Little Chersonesus, which, as I was saying, is a part of the GreatChersonesus and has on it the city ofChersonesus, which bears the same name as the peninsula.
§ 7.4.3 This city was at first self-governing, but when it was sacked by the barbarians it was forced to chooseMithridates Eupator as protector. He was then leading an army against the barbarians who lived beyond the isthmus as far as theBorysthenes and the Adrias; this, however, was preparatory to a campaign against the Romans. So, then, in accordance with these hopes of his he gladly sent an army toChersonesus, and at the same time carried on war against theScythians, not only againstScilurus, but also the sons ofScilurus —Palacus and the rest — who, according toPoseidonius were fifty in number, but according toApollonides were eighty. At the same time, also, he not only subdued all these by force, but also established himself as lord of theBosporus, receiving the country as a voluntary gift fromParisades who held sway over it. So from that time on down to the present the city of theChersonesites has been subject to the potentates of theBosporus. Again, Ctenus Limen is equidistant from the city of theChersonesites and Symbolon Limen. And after Symbolon Limen, as far as the cityTheodosia, lies theTauric seaboard, which is about one thousand stadia in length. It is rugged and mountainous, and is subject to furious storms from the north. And in front of it lies a promontory which extends far out towards the high sea and the south in the direction ofPaphlagonia and the cityAmastris; it is calledCriumetopon. And opposite it lies that promontory of thePaphlagonians,Carambis, which, by means of the strait, which is contracted on both sides, divides theEuxinePontus into two seas. Now the distance fromCarambis to the city of theChersonesites is two thousand five hundred stadia, but the number toCriumetopon is much less; at any rate, many who have sailed across the strait say that they have seen both promontories, on either side, at the same time. In the mountainous district of theTaurians is also the mountain, which has the same name as the city in the neighborhood of Tibarania andColchis. And near the same mountainous district is also another mountain,Cimmerius, so called because theCimmerians once held sway in theBosporus; and it is because of this fact that the whole of the strait which extends to the mouth of LakeMaeotis is called theCimmerian Bosporus.
§ 7.4.4 After the aforesaid mountainous district is the cityTheodosia. It is situated in a fertile plain and has a harbor that can accommodate as many as a hundred ships; this harbor in earlier times was a boundary between the countries of theBosporians and theTaurians. And the country that comes next after that ofTheodosia is also fertile, as far asPanticapaion.Panticapaion is the metropolis of theBosporians and is situated at the mouth of LakeMaeotis. The distance betweenTheodosia andPanticapaion is about five hundred and thirty stadia; the district is everywhere productive of grain, and it contains villages, as well as a city calledNymphaion, which possesses a good harbor.Panticapaion is a hill inhabited on all sides in a circuit of twenty stadia. To the east it has a harbor, and docks for about thirty ships; and it also has an acropolis. It is a colony of theMilesians. For a long time it was ruled as a monarchy by the dynasty ofLeuco,Satyrus, andParisades, as were also all the neighboring settlements near the south of LakeMaeotis on both sides, untilParisades gave over the sovereignty toMithridates. They were called tyrants, although most of them, beginning withParisades andLeuco, proved to be equitable rulers. AndParisades was actually held in honor as god. The last of these monarchs also bore the nameParisades, but he was unable to hold out against the barbarians, who kept exacting greater tribute than before, and he therefore gave over the sovereignty toMithridates Eupator. But since the time ofMithridates the kingdom has been subject to the Romans. The greater part of it is situated in Europe, although a part of it is situated inAsia.
§ 7.4.5 The mouth of LakeMaeotis is called theCimmerian Bosporus. It is rather wide at first — about seventy stadia — and it is here that people cross over from the regions ofPanticapaion toPhanagoria, the nearest city ofAsia; but it ends in a much narrower channel. This strait separatesAsia from Europe; and so does theTanais River, which is directly opposite and flows from the north into the lake and then into the mouth of it. The river has two outlets into the lake which are about sixty stadia distant from one another. There is also a city which has the same name as the river, and next toPanticapaion is the greatest emporium of the barbarians. On the left, as one sails into theCimmerian Bosporus, is a little city,Myrmecium, at a distance of twenty stadia fromPanticapaion. And twice this distance fromMyrmecium is the village of Parthenium; here the strait is narrowest — about twenty stadia — and on the opposite side, inAsia, is situated a village called Achilleium. Thence, if one sails straight to theTanais and the islands near its outlets, the distance is two thousand two hundred stadia, but if one sails along the coast ofAsia, the distance slightly exceeds this; if, however, one sails on the left as far as theTanais, following the coast where the isthmus is situated, the distance is more than three times as much. Now the whole of the seaboard along this coast, I mean on the European side, is desert, but the seaboard on the right is not desert; and, according to report, the total circuit of the lake is nine thousand stadia. The Great Chersonesus is similar to thePeloponnesus both in shape and in size. It is held by the potentates of theBosporus, though the whole of it has been devastated by continuous wars. But in earlier times only a small part of it — that which is close to the mouth of LakeMaeotis and toPanticapaion and extends as far asTheodosia — was held by the tyrants of theBosporians, whereas most of it, as far as the isthmus and theGulf of Carcinites, was held by theTaurians, aScythian tribe. And the whole of this country, together with about all the country outside the isthmus as far as theBorysthenes, was called LittleScythia. But on account of the large number of people who left LittleScythia and crossed both theTyras and theIster and took up their abode in the land beyond, no small portion ofThrace as well came to be called LittleScythia; theThracians giving way to them partly as the result of force and partly because of the bad quality of the land, for the greater part of the country is marshy.
§ 7.4.6 But theChersonesus, except for the mountainous district that extends along the sea as far asTheodosia, is everywhere level and fertile, and in the production of grain it is extremely fortunate. At any rate, it yields thirty-fold if furrowed by any sort of a digging-instrument. Further, the people of this region, together with those of the Asiatic districts round aboutSindice, used to pay as tribute toMithridates one hundred and eighty thousand medimni and also two hundred talents of silver. And in still earlier times the Greeks imported their supplies of grain from here, just as they imported their supplies of salt-fish from the lake.Leuco, it is said, once sent fromTheodosia toAthens two million one hundred thousand medimni. These same people used to be calledGeorgi, in the literal sense of the term, because of the fact that the people who were situated beyond them were Nomads and lived not only on meats in general but also on the meat ofhorses, as also on cheese made from mare's milk, on mare's fresh milk, and on mare's sour milk, which last, when prepared in a particular way, is much relished by them. And this is why the poet calls all the people in that part of the world "Galactophagi." Now although the Nomads are warriors rather than brigands, yet they go to war only for the sake of the tributes due them; for they turn over their land to any people who wish to till it, and are satisfied if they receive in return for the land the tribute they have assessed, which is a moderate one, assessed with a view, not to an abundance, but only to the daily necessities of life; but if the tenants do not pay, the Nomads go to war with them. And so it is that the poet calls these same men at the same time both "just" and "resourceless"; for if the tributes were paid regularly, they would never resort to war. But men who are confident that they are powerful enough either to ward off attacks easily or to prevent any invasion do not pay regularly; such was the case withAsander, who, according toHypsicrates, walled off the isthmus of theChersonesus which is near LakeMaeotis and is three hundred and sixty stadia in width, and set up ten towers for every stadium. But though theGeorgi of this region are considered to be at the same time both more gentle and civilized, still, since they are money-getters and have to do with the sea, they do not hold aloof from acts ofpiracy, nor yet from any other such acts of injustice and greed.
§ 7.4.7 In addition to the places in theChersonesus which I have enumerated, there were also the three forts which were built byScilurus and his sons — the forts which they used as bases of operations against the generals ofMithridates — I mean Palacium, Chabum, andNeapolis. There was also a Fort Eupatorium, founded byDiophantus when he was leading the army forMithridates. There is a cape about fifteen stadia distant from the wall of theChersonesites; it forms a very large gulf which inclines towards the city. And above this gulf is situated a lagoon which has salt-works. And here, too, was the Ctenus Harbor. Now it was in order that they might hold out that the besieged generals of the king fortified the place, established a garrison on the cape aforesaid, and filled up that part of the mouth of the gulf which extends as far as the city, so that there was now an easy journey on foot and, in a way, one city instead of two. Consequently, they could more easily beat off theScythians. But when theScythians made their attack, near Ctenus, on the fortified wall that extends across the isthmus, and daily filled up the trench with straw, the generals of the king set fire by night to the part thus bridged by day, and held out until they finally prevailed over them. And today everything is subject to whatever kings of theBosporians the Romans choose to set up.
§ 7.4.8 It is a peculiarity of the wholeScythian andSarmatian race that they castrate theirhorses to make them easy to manage; for although thehorses are small, they are exceedingly quick and hard to manage. As for game, there are deer and wildboars in the marshes, and wildasses and roe deer in the plains. Another peculiar thing is the fact that theeagle is not found in these regions. And among the quadrupeds there is what is called the "colos"; it is between the deer and ram in size, is white, is swifter than they, and drinks through its nostrils into its head, and then from this storage supplies itself for several days, so that it can easily live in the waterless country. Such, then, is the nature of the whole of the country which is outside theIster between theRhenus and theTanais Rivers as far as thePontic Sea and LakeMaeotis.
§ 7.5.1 The remainder of Europe consists of the country which is between theIster and the encircling sea, beginning at the recess of theAdriatic and extending as far as the Sacred Mouth of theIster. In this country are Greece and the tribes of theMacedonians and of theEpeirotes, and all those tribes above them whose countries reach to theIster and to the seas on either side, both theAdriatic and thePontic — to theAdriatic, theIllyrian tribes, and to the other sea as far as thePropontis and theHellespont, the Thracian tribes and whateverScythian orCeltic tribes are intermingled with them. But I must make my beginning at theIster, speaking of the parts that come next in order after the regions which I have already encompassed in my description. These are the parts that border onItaly, on theAlps, and on the counties of the Germans,Dacians, and Getans. This country also might be divided into two parts, for, in a way, theIllyrian,Paeonian, and Thracian mountains are parallel to theIster, thus completing what is almost a straight line that reaches from theAdrias as far as thePontus; and to the north of this line are the parts that are between theIster and the mountains, whereas to the south are Greece and the barbarian country which borders thereon and extends as far as the mountainous country. Now the mountain calledHaemus is near thePontus; it is the largest and highest of all mountains in that part of the world, and cleavesThrace almost in the center.Polybius says that both seas are visible from the mountain, but this is untrue, for the distance to theAdrias is great and the things that obscure the view are many. On the other hand, almost the whole ofArdia is near theAdrias. ButPaeonia is in the middle, and the whole of it too is high country.Paeonia is bounded on either side, first, towards the Thracian parts, byRhodope, a mountain next in height to theHaemus, and secondly, on the other side, towards the north, by theIllyrian parts, both the country of theAutariatae and that of theDardanians. So then, let me speak first of theIllyrian parts, which join theIster and that part of theAlps which lies betweenItaly andGermania and begins at the lake which is near the country of theVindelici,Rhaeti, and Toenii.
§ 7.5.2 A part of this country was laid waste by theDacians when they subdued theBoii andTaurisci,Celtic tribes under the rule ofCritasirus. They alleged that the country was theirs, although it was separated from theirs by the River Parisus, which flows from the mountains to theIster near the country of theScordisci who are called Galatae, for these too lived intermingled with theIllyrian and the Thracian tribes. But though theDacians destroyed theBoii andTaurisci, they often used theScordisci as allies. The remainder of the country in question is held by thePannonii as far asSegestica and theIster, on the north and east, although their territory extends still farther in the other directions. The citySegestica, belonging to thePannonians, is at the confluence of several rivers, all of them navigable, and is naturally fitted to be a base of operations for making war against theDacians; for it lies beneath that part of theAlps which extends as far as the country of theIapodes, a tribe which is at the same time bothCeltic andIllyrian. And thence, too, flow rivers which bring down intoSegestica much merchandise both from other countries and fromItaly. For if one passes over MountOcra fromAquileia toNauportus, a settlement of theTaurisci, whither the wagons are brought, the distance is three hundred and fifty stadia, though some say five hundred. Now theOcra is the lowest part of that portion of theAlps which extends from the country of theRhaeti to that of theIapodes. Then the mountains rise again, in the country of theIapodes, and are called "Albian." In like manner, also, there is a pass which leads overOcra fromTergeste, a Carnic village, to a marsh called Lugeum. NearNauportus there is a river, the Corcoras, which receives the cargoes. Now this river empties into theSaus, and theSaus into theDravus, and theDravus into theNoarus nearSegestica. Immediately belowNauportus theNoarus is further increased in volume by theColapis, which flows from the Albian Mountain through the country of theIapodes and meets theDanuvius near the country of theScordisci. The voyage on these rivers is, for the most part, towards the north. The road fromTergeste to theDanuvius is about one thousand two hundred stadia. NearSegestica, and on the road toItaly, are situated bothSiscia, a fort, andSirmium.
§ 7.5.3 The tribes of thePannonii are: theBreuci, theAndisetii, theDitiones, thePeirustae, theMazaei, and theDaesitiatae, whose leader isBato, and also other small tribes of less significance which extend as far asDalmatia and, as one goes south, almost as far as the land of theArdiaei. The whole of the mountainous country that stretches alongsidePannonia from the recess of theAdriatic as far as theRhizonic Gulf and the land of theArdiaei isIllyrian, falling as it does between the sea and thePannonian tribes. But this is about where I should begin my continuous geographical circuit — though first I shall repeat a little of what I have said before. I was saying in my geographical circuit ofItaly that theIstrians were the first people on theIllyrian seaboard; their country being a continuation ofItaly and the country of theCarni; and it is for this reason that the present Roman rulers have advanced the boundary ofItaly as far asPola, anIstrian city. Now this boundary is about eight hundred stadia from the recess, and the distance from the promontory in front ofPola toAncona, if one keeps the Henetic country on the right, is the same. And the entire distance along the coast ofIstria is one thousand three hundred stadia.
§ 7.5.4 Next in order comes the voyage of one thousand stadia along the coast of the country of theIapodes; for theIapodes are situated on the Albian Mountain, which is the last mountain of theAlps, is very lofty, and reaches down to the country of thePannonians on one side and to theAdrias on the other. They are indeed a war-mad people, but they have been utterly worn out byAugustus. Their cities areMetulum,Arupini, Monetium, andVendon. Their lands are poor, the people living for the most part on spelt and millet. Their armor isCeltic, and they are tattooed like the rest of theIllyrians and the Miracians. After the voyage along the coast of the country of theIapodes comes that along the coast of the country of theLiburni, the latter being five hundred stadia longer than the former; on this voyage is a river, which is navigable inland for merchant-vessels as far as the country of theDalmatians, and also aLiburnian city,Scardo.
§ 7.5.5 There are islands along the whole of the aforesaid seaboard: first, theApsyrtides, whereMedeia is said to have killed her brotherApsyrtus who was pursuing her; and then, opposite the country of theIapodes,Cyrictica, then theLiburnides, about forty in number; then other islands, of which the best known areIssa,Tragurium (founded by the people ofIssa), andPharos (formerly Paros founded by theParians), the native land ofDemetrius thePharian. Then comes the seaboard of theDalmatians, and also their sea-port,Salona. This tribe is one of those which carried on war against the Romans for a long time; it had as many as fifty noteworthy settlements; and some of these were cities —Salona, Priamo, Ninia, andSinotium (both the Old and the New), all of which were set on fire byAugustus. And there isAndretium, a fortified place; and alsoDalmium (whence the name of the tribe), which was once a large city, but because of the greed of the peopleNasica reduced it to a small city and made the plain a meresheep pasture. TheDalmatians have the peculiar custom of making a redistribution of land every seven years; and that they make no use of coined money is peculiar to them as compared with the other peoples in that part of the world, although as compared with many other barbarian peoples it is common. And there is Mount Adrium, which cuts theDalmatian country through the middle into two parts, one facing the sea and the other in the opposite direction. Then come the RiverNaro and the people who live about it — theDaorisi, theArdiaei, and thePleraei. An island called theBlack Corcyra and also a city founded by theCnidians are close to thePleraei, whilePharos (formerly called Paros, for it was founded byParians) is close to theArdiaei.
§ 7.5.6 TheArdiaei were called by the men of later times "Vardiaei." Because they pestered the sea through theirpiratical bands, the Romans pushed them back from it into the interior and forced them to till the soil. But the country is rough and poor and not suited to a farming population, and therefore the tribe has been utterly ruined and in fact has almost been obliterated. And this is what befell the rest of the peoples in that part of the world; for those who were most powerful in earlier times were utterly humbled or were obliterated, as, for example, among theGalatae theBoii and theScordistae, and among theIllyrians theAutariatae,Ardiaei, andDardanii, and among theThracians theTriballi; that is, they were reduced in warfare by one another at first and then later by theMacedonians and the Romans.
§ 7.5.7 Be this as it may, after the seaboard of theArdiaei and thePleraei come the Rhisonic Gulf, and the cityRhizo, and other small towns and also the RiverDrilo, which is navigable inland towards the east as far as theDardanian country. This country borders on theMacedonian and thePaeonian tribes on the south, as do also theAutariatae and theDassaretii — different peoples on different sides being contiguous to one another and to theAutariatae. To theDardaniatae belong also theGalabrii, among whom is an ancient city, and theThunatae, whose country joins that of theMedi, a Thracian tribe on the east. TheDardanians are so utterly wild that they dig caves beneath their dung-hills and live there, but still they care for music, always making use of musical instruments, both flutes and stringed instruments. However, these people live in the interior, and I shall mention them again later.
§ 7.5.8 After theRhizonic Gulf comes the city ofLissus, andAcrolissus, andEpidamnus, founded by theCorcyraeans, which is now calledDyrrachium, like the peninsula on which it is situated. Then comes theApsus River; and then theAous, on which is situatedApollonia, an exceedingly well-governed city, founded by theCorinthians and theCorcyraeans, and ten stadia distant from the river and sixty from the sea. TheAous is called "Aeas" byHecataeus, who says that both theInachus and theAeas flow from the same place, the region of Lacmus, or rather from the same subterranean recess, the former towards the south intoArgos and the latter towards the west and towards theAdrias. In the country of theApolloniates is a place calledNymphaion; it is a rock that gives forth fire; and beneath it flow springs of warm water and asphalt — probably because the clods of asphalt in the earth are burned by the fire. And near by, on a hill, is a mine of asphalt; and the part that is trenched is filled up again in the course of time, since, asPoseidonius says, the earth that is poured into the trenches changes to asphalt. He also speaks of the asphaltic vine-earth which is mined at the PierianSeleuceia as a cure for the infested vine; for, he says, if it is smeared on together with olive oil, it kills the insects before they can mount the sprouts of the roots; and, he adds, earth of this sort was also discovered inRhodes when he was in office there asPrytanis, but it required more olive oil. AfterApollonia comesBylliaca, andOricum and its seaportPanormus, and theCeraunian Mountains, where the mouth of theIonian Sea and theAdrias begins.
§ 7.5.9 Now the mouth is common to both, but theIonian is different in that it is the name of the first part of this sea, whereasAdrias is the name of the inside part of the sea as far as the recess; at the present time, however,Adrias is also the name of the sea as a whole. According toTheopompus, the first name came from a man, a native ofIssa, who once ruled over the region, whereas theAdrias was named after a river. The distance from the country of theLiburnians to theCeraunian Mountains is slightly more than two thousand stadiaTheopompus states that the whole voyage from the recess takes six days, and that on foot the length of theIllyrian country is as much as thirty days, though in my opinion he makes the distance too great. And he also says other things that are incredible: first, that the seas are connected by a subterranean passage, from the fact that bothChian andThasian pottery are found in theNaro River; secondly, that both seas are visible from a certain mountain; and thirdly, when he puts down a certain one of theLiburnides islands as large enough to have a circuit of five hundred stadia; and fourthly, that theIster empties by one of its mouths into theAdrias. InEratosthenes, also, are some false hearsay statements of this kind — "popular notions," asPolybius calls them when speaking of him and the other historians.
§ 7.5.10 Now the wholeIllyrian seaboard is exceedingly well supplied with harbors, not only on the continuous coast itself but also in the neighboring islands, although the reverse is the case with that part of theItalian seaboard which lies opposite, since it is harborless. But both seaboards in like manner are sunny and good for fruits, for the olive and the vine flourish there, except, perhaps, in places here or there that are utterly rugged. But although theIllyrian seaboard is such, people in earlier times made but small account of it — perhaps in part owing to their ignorance of its fertility, though mostly because of the wildness of the inhabitants and theirpiratical habits. But the whole of the country situated above this is mountainous, cold, and subject to snows, especially the northerly part, so that there is a scarcity of the vine, not only on the heights but also on the levels. These latter are the mountain-plains occupied by thePannonians; on the south they extend as far as the country of theDalmatians and theArdiaei, on the north they end at theIster, while on the east they border on the country of theScordisci, that is, on the country that extends along the mountains of theMacedonians and theThracians.
§ 7.5.11 Now theAutariatae were once the largest and best tribe of theIllyrians. In earlier times they were continually at war with theArdiaei over the salt-works on the common frontiers. The salt was made to crystallize out of water which in the spring-time flowed at the foot of a certain mountain-glen, for if they drew off the water and stowed it away for five days the salt would become thoroughly crystallized. They would agree to use the salt-works alternately, but would break the agreements and go to war. At one time when theAutariatae had subdued theTriballi, whose territory extended from that of theAgrianes as far as theIster, a journey of fifteen days, they held sway also over the rest of theThracians and theIllyrians; but they were overpowered, at first by theScordisci, and later on by the Romans, who also subdued theScordisci themselves, after these had been in power for a long time.
§ 7.5.12 TheScordisci lived along theIster and were divided into two tribes called the GreatScordisci and the LittleScordisci. The former lived between two rivers that empty into theIster — theNoarus, which flows pastSegestica, and theMargus (by some called theBargus), whereas the LittleScordisci lived on the far side of this river, and their territory bordered on that of theTriballi and theMysi. TheScordisci also held some of the islands; and they increased to such an extent that they advanced as far as theIllyrian,Paeonian, and Thracian mountains; accordingly, they also took possession of most of the islands in theIster. And they also had two cities — Heorta andCapedunum. After the country of theScordisci, along theIster, comes that of theTriballi and theMysi (whom I have mentioned before), and also the marshes of that part of what is called LittleScythia which is this side theIster (these too I have mentioned). These people, as also theCrobyzi and what are called theTroglodytae, live above the region round aboutCallatis,Tomis, andIster. Then come the peoples who live in the neighborhood of theHaemus Mountain and those who live at its base and extend as far as thePontus — I mean theCoralli, theBessi, and some of theMedi andDantheletae Now these tribes are very brigandish themselves, but theBessi, who inhabit the greater part of theHaemus Mountain, are called brigands even by the brigands. TheBessi live in huts and lead a wretched life; and their country borders on MountRhodope, on the country of thePaeonians, and on that of twoIllyrian peoples — theAutariatae, and theDardanians. Between these and theArdiaei are theDassaretii, theHybrianes, and other insignificant tribes, which theScordisci kept on ravaging until they had depopulated the country and made it full of trackless forests for a distance of several days' journey.
§ 7.6.1 Pontic seaboard: The remainder of the country between theIster and the mountains on either side ofPaeonia consists of that part of thePontic seaboard which extends from the Sacred Mouth of theIster as far as the mountainous country in the neighborhood of theHaemus and as far as the mouth atByzantium. And just as, in traversing theIllyrian seaboard, I proceeded as far as theCeraunian Mountains, because, although they fall outside the mountainous country ofIllyria, they afford an appropriate limit, and just as I determined the positions of the tribes of the interior by these mountains, because I thought that marks of this kind would be more significant as regards both the description at hand and what was to follow, so also in this case the seaboard, even though it falls beyond the mountain-line, will nevertheless end at an appropriate limit — the mouth of thePontus — as regards both the description at hand and that which comes next in order. So, then, if one begins at the Sacred Mouth of theIster and keeps the continuous seaboard on the right, one comes, at a distance of five hundred stadia, to a small town,Ister, founded by theMilesians; then, at a distance of two hundred and fifty stadia, to a second small town,Tomis; then, at two hundred and eighty stadia, to a cityCallatis, a colony of theHeracleotae; then, at one thousand three hundred stadia, toApollonia, a colony of theMilesians. The greater part ofApollonia was founded on a certain isle, where there is a sanctuary ofApollo, from whichMarcus Lucullus carried off the colossal statue ofApollo, a work ofCalamis, which he set up in theCapitolium. In the interval betweenCallatis andApollonia come alsoBizone, of which a considerable part was engulfed by earthquakes,Cruni,Odessus, a colony of theMilesians, andNaulochus, a small town of theMesembriani. Then comes theHaemus Mountain, which reaches the sea here; thenMesembria, a colony of theMegarians, formerly called "Menebria" (that is, "city ofMenas," because the name of its founder wasMenas, while "bria" is the word for "city" in the Thracian language. In this way, also, the city of Selys is calledSelybria andAenus was once called Poltyobria). Then comeAnchiale, a small town belonging to theApolloniatae, andApollonia itself. On this coast-line is CapeTirizis, a stronghold, whichLysimachus once used as a treasury. Again, fromApollonia to theCyaneae the distance is about one thousand five hundred stadia; and in the interval areThynias, a territory belonging to theApolloniatae (Anchiale, which also belongs to theApolloniatae), and alsoPhinopolis and Andriake, which border onSalmydessus.Salmydessus is a desert and stony beach, harborless and wide open to the north winds, and in length extends as far as theCyaneae, a distance of about seven hundred stadia; and all who are cast ashore on this beach are plundered by theAstae, a Thracian tribe who are situated above it. TheCyaneae are two islets near the mouth of thePontus, one close to Europe and the other toAsia; they are separated by a channel of about twenty stadia and are twenty stadia distant both from thehieron [sanctuary] of theByzantines and from theHieron of theChalcedonians. And this is the narrowest part of the mouth of theEuxine, for when one proceeds only ten stadia farther one comes to a headland which makes the strait only five stadia in width, and then the strait opens to a greater width and begins to form thePropontis.
§ 7.6.2 Now the distance from the headland that makes the strait only five stadia wide to the harbor which is called "Under theFig-tree" is thirty-five stadia; and thence to theHorn of theByzantines, five stadia. TheHorn, which is close to the wall of theByzantines, is a gulf that extends approximately towards the west for a distance of sixty stadia; it resembles a stag's horn, for it is split into numerous gulfs — branches, as it were. The pelamydes rush into these gulfs and are easily caught — because of their numbers, the force of the current that drives them together, and the narrowness of the gulfs; in fact, because of the narrowness of the area, they are even caught by hand. Now these fish are hatched in the marshes of LakeMaeotis, and when they have gained a little strength they rush out through the mouth of the lake in schools and move along the Asian shore as far asTrapezus andPharnacia. It is here that the catching of the fish first takes place, though the catch is not considerable, for the fish have not yet grown to their normal size. But when they reachSinope, they are mature enough for catching and salting. Yet when once they touch theCyaneae and pass by these, the creatures take such fright at a certain white rock which projects from theChalcedonian shore that they forthwith turn to the opposite shore. There they are caught by the current, and since at the same time the region is so formed by nature as to turn the current of the sea there toByzantium and theHorn atByzantium, they naturally are driven together thither and thus afford theByzantines and the Roman people considerable revenue. But theChalcedonians, though situated near by, on the opposite shore, have no share in this abundance, because the pelamydes do not approach their harbors; hence the saying thatApollo, when the men who foundedByzantium at a time subsequent to the founding ofChalcedon by theMegarians consulted the oracle, ordered them to "make their settlement opposite the blind," thus calling theChalcedonians "blind", because, although they sailed the regions in question at an earlier time, they failed to take possession of the country on the far side, with all its wealth, and chose the poorer country. I have now carried my description as far asByzantium, because a famous city, lying as it does very near to the mouth, marked a better-known limit to the coasting-voyage from theIster. And aboveByzantium is situated the tribe of theAstae, in whose territory is a cityCalybe, wherePhilip the son ofAmyntas settled the most villainous people of his kingdom.
§ 7.7.1 Epirus
These alone, then, of all the tribes that are marked off by theIster and by theIllyrian and Thracian mountains, deserve to be mentioned, occupying as they do the whole of theAdriatic seaboard beginning at the recess, and also the sea-board that is called "the left parts of thePontus," and extends from theIster River as far asByzantium. But there remain to be described the southerly parts of the aforesaid mountainous country and next thereafter the districts that are situated below them, among which are both Greece and the adjacent barbarian country as far as the mountains. NowHecataeus ofMiletus says of thePeloponnesus that before the time of the Greeks it was inhabited by barbarians. Yet one might say that in the ancient times the whole of Greece was a settlement of barbarians, if one reasons from the traditions themselves:Pelops brought over peoples fromPhrygia to thePeloponnesus that received its name from him; andDanaus fromEgypt; whereas theDryopes, theCaucones, thePelasgi, theLeleges, and other such peoples, apportioned among themselves the parts that are inside the isthmus — and also the parts outside, forAttica was once held by theThracians who came withEumolpus,Daulis inPhocis byTereus,Cadmeia by thePhoenicians who came withCadmus, andBoeotia itself by theAones and Temmices andHyantes. According toPindar, "there was a time when theBoeotian tribe was called "Syes." Moreover, the barbarian origin of some is indicated by their names —Cecrops,Codrus,Aiclus,Cothus, Drymas, andCrinacus. And even to the present day theThracians,Illyrians, andEpeirotes live on the flanks of the Greeks (though this was still more the case formerly than now); indeed most of the country that at the present time is indisputably Greece is held by the barbarians —Macedonia and certain parts ofThessaly by theThracians, and the parts aboveAcarnania andAitolia by theThesproti, theCassopaei, theAmphilochi, theMolossi, and theAthamanes — Epeirotic tribes.
§ 7.7.2 As for thePelasgi, I have already discussed them. As for theLeleges, some conjecture that they are the same as theCarians, and others that they were only fellow-inhabitants and fellow-soldiers of these; and this, they say, is why, in the territory ofMiletus, certain settlements are called settlements of theLeleges, and why, in many places inCaria, tombs of theLeleges and deserted forts, known as "Lelegian forts," are so called. However, the whole of what is now calledIonia used to be inhabited byCarians andLeleges; but theIonians themselves expelled them and took possession of the country, although in still earlier times the captors ofTroy had driven theLeleges from the region aboutIda that is nearPedasus and theSatniois River. So then, the very fact that theLeleges made common cause with theCarians might be considered a sign that they were barbarians. AndAristotle, in his Polities, also clearly indicates that they led a wandering life, not only with theCarians, but also apart from them, and from earliest times; for instance, in the Polity of theAcarnanians he says that theCuretes held a part of the country, whereas theLeleges, and then theTeleboae, held the westerly part; and in the Polity of theAitolians (and likewise in that of theOpuntii and theMegarians) he calls theLocri of todayLeleges and says that they took possession ofBoeotia too; again, in the Polity of theLeucadians he names a certain indigenousLelex, and alsoTeleboas, the son of a daughter ofLelex, and twenty-two sons ofTeleboas, some of whom, he says, dwelt inLeucas. But in particular one might believeHesiod when he says concerning them: "For verilyLocrus was chieftain of the peoples of theLeleges, whom onceZeus the son ofCronus, who knoweth devices imperishable, gave toDeucalion — peoples picked out of earth"; for by his etymology he seems to me to hint that from earliest times they were a collection of mixed peoples and that this was why the tribe disappeared. And the same might be said of theCaucones, since now they are nowhere to be found, although in earlier times they were settled in several places.
§ 7.7.3 Now although in earlier times the tribes in question were small, numerous, and obscure, still, because of the density of their population and because they lived each under its own king, it was not at all difficult to determine their boundaries; but now that most of the country has become depopulated and the settlements, particularly the cities, have disappeared from sight, it would do no good, even if one could determine their boundaries with strict accuracy, to do so, because of their obscurity and their disappearance. This process of disappearing began a long time ago, and has not yet entirely ceased in many regions because the people keep revolting; indeed, the Romans, after being set up as masters by the inhabitants, encamp in their very houses. Be this as it may,Polybius says thatPaulus, after his subjection ofPerseus and theMacedonians, destroyed seventy cities of theEpeirotes (most of which, he adds, belonged to theMolossi), and reduced to slavery one hundred and fifty thousand people. Nevertheless, I shall attempt, in so far as it is appropriate to my description and as my knowledge reaches, to traverse the several different parts, beginning at the seaboard of theIonian Sea — that is, where the voyage out of theAdrias ends.
§ 7.7.4 Of this seaboard, then, the first parts are those aboutEpidamnus andApollonia. FromApollonia toMacedonia one travels theEgnatian Road towards the east; it has been measured by Roman miles and marked by pillars as far asCypsela and theHebrus River — a distance of five hundred and thirty-five miles. Now if one reckons as most people do, eight stadia to the mile, there would be four thousand two hundred and eighty stadia, whereas if one reckons asPolybius does, who adds two plethra, which is a third of a stadium, to the eight stadia, one must add one hundred and seventy-eight stadia — the third of the number of miles. And it so happens that travellers setting out fromApollonia andEpidamnus meet at an equal distance from the two places on the same road. Now although the road as a whole is called theEgnatian Road, the first part of it is called the Road toCandavia (anIllyrian mountain) and passes throughLychnidus, a city, andPylon, a place on the road which marks the boundary between theIllyrian country andMacedonia. FromPylon the road runs toBarnus throughHeracleia and the country of theLyncestae and that of theEordi intoEdessa andPella and as far asThessaloniceia; and the length of this road in miles, according toPolybius, is two hundred and sixty-seven. So then, in travelling this road from the region ofEpidamnus andApollonia, one has on the right the Epeirotic tribes whose coasts are washed by theSicilian Sea and extend as far as theAmbracian Gulf, and, on the left, the mountains ofIllyria, which I have already described in detail, and those tribes which live along them and extend as far asMacedonia and the country of thePaeonians. Then, beginning at theAmbracian Gulf, all the districts which, one after another, incline towards the east and stretch parallel to thePeloponnesus belong to Greece; they then leave the whole of thePeloponnesus on the right and project into theAegean Sea. But the districts which extend from the beginning of theMacedonian and thePaeonian mountains as far as theStrymon River are inhabited by theMacedonians, thePaeonians, and by some of the Thracian mountaineers; whereas the districts beyond theStrymon, extending as far as the mouth of thePontus and theHaemus, all belong to theThracians, except the seaboard. This seaboard is inhabited by Greeks, some being situated on thePropontis, others on theHellespont and the Gulf ofMelas, and others on theAegean. TheAegean Sea washes Greece on two sides: first, the side that faces towards the east and stretches fromSounion, towards the north as far as theThermaean Gulf andThessaloniceia, aMacedonian city, which at the present time is more populous than any of the rest; and secondly, the side that faces towards the south, I mean theMacedonian country, extending fromThessaloniceia as far as theStrymon. Some, however, also assign toMacedonia the country that extends from theStrymon as far as theNestus River, sincePhilip was so specially interested in these districts that he appropriated them to himself, and since he organized very large revenues from the mines and the other natural resources of the country. But fromSounion to thePeloponnesus lie theMyrtoan, theCretan, and the Libyan Seas, together with their gulfs, as far as theSicilian Sea; and this last fills out theAmbracian, theCorinthian, and theCrisaean Gulfs.
§ 7.7.5 Now as for theEpeirotes, there are fourteen tribes of them, according toTheopompus, but of these theChaones and theMolossi are the most famous, because of the fact that they once ruled over the whole of theEpeirote country — theChaones earlier and later theMolossi; and theMolossi grew to still greater power, partly because of the kinship of their kings, who belonged to the family of theAeacidae, and partly because of the fact that the oracle atDodona was in their country, an oracle both ancient and renowned. Now theChaones and theThesproti and, next in order after these, theCassopaei (these, too, areThesproti) inhabit the seaboard which extends from theCeraunian Mountains as far as theAmbracian Gulf, and they have a fertile country. The voyage, if one begins at the country of theChaones and sails towards the rising sun and towards theAmbracian Gulf andCorinthian Gulf, keeping theAusonian Sea on the right andEpeirus on the left, is one thousand three hundred stadia, that is, from theCeraunian Mountains to the mouth of theAmbracian Gulf. In this interval isPanormus, a large harbor at the center of theCeraunian Mountains, and after these mountains one comes toOnchesmus, another harbor, opposite which lie the western extremities ofCorcyraea, and then still another harbor,Cassiope, from which the distance toBrentesium is one thousand seven hundred stadia. And the distance toTaras from another cape, which is farther south thanCassiope and is calledPhalacrum, is the same. AfterOnchesmus comes Poseidium, and alsoButhrotum (which is at the mouth of what is calledPelodes Harbor, is situated on a place that forms a peninsula, and has alien settlers consisting of Romans), and theSybota. TheSybota are small islands situated only a short distance from the mainland and oppositeLeucimma, the eastern headland ofCorcyraea. And there are still other small islands as one sails along this coast, but they are not worth mentioning. Then comes CapeCheimerium, and alsoGlycys Limen, into which the RiverAcheron empties. TheAcheron flows from theAcherusian Lake and receives several rivers as tributaries, so that it sweetens the waters of the gulf. And also theThyamis flows near by.Cichyrus, theEphyra of former times, a city of theThesprotians, lies above this gulf, whereasPhoinike lies above that gulf which is atButhrotum. NearCichyrus isBuchetium, a small town of theCassopaeans, which is only a short distance above the sea; alsoElatria,Pandosia, andBatiae, which are in the interior, though their territory reaches down as far as the gulf. Next in order afterGlycys Limen come two other harbors —Comarus, the nearer and smaller of the two, which forms an isthmus of sixty stadia with theAmbracian Gulf, andNicopolis, a city founded byAugustus Caesar, and the other, the more distant and larger and better of the two, which is near the mouth of the gulf and is about twelve stadia distant fromNicopolis.
§ 7.7.6 Next comes the mouth of theAmbracian Gulf. Although the mouth of this gulf is but slightly more than four stadia wide, the circumference is as much as three hundred stadia; and it has good harbors everywhere. That part of the country which is on the right as one sails in is inhabited by the GreekAcarnanians. Here too, near the mouth, is the sacred precinct of theActianApollo — a hill on which the sanctuary stands; and at the foot of the hill is a plain which contains a sacred grove and a naval station, the naval station whereCaesar dedicated as first fruits of his victory the squadron of ten ships — from vessel with single bank of oars to vessel with ten; however, not only the boats, it is said, but also the boat-houses have been wiped out by fire. On the left of the mouth areNicopolis and the country of theEpeiroteCassopaeans, which extends as far as the recess of the gulf nearAmbracia.Ambracia lies only a short distance above the recess; it was founded byGorgus, the son ofCypselus. The RiverAracthus flows pastAmbracia; it is navigable inland for only a few stadia, from the sea toAmbracia, although it rises in MountTymphe and theParoraea. Now this city enjoyed an exceptional prosperity in earlier times (at any rate the gulf was named after it), and it was adorned most of all byPyrrhus, who made the place his royal residence. In later times, however, theMacedonians and the Romans, by their continuous wars, so completely reduced both this and the otherEpeirote cities because of their disobedience that finallyAugustus, seeing that the cities had utterly failed, settled what inhabitants were left in one city together the city on this gulf which was called by himNicopolis; and he so named it after the victory which he won in the naval battle before the mouth of the gulf overAntonius andCleopatra the queen of theEgyptians, who was also present at the fight.Nicopolis is populous, and its numbers are increasing daily, since it has not only a considerable territory and the adornment taken from the spoils of the battle, but also, in its suburbs, the thoroughly equipped sacred precinct — one part of it being in a sacred grove that contains a gymnasium and a stadium for the celebration of the quinquennial games, the other part being on the hill that is sacred toApollo and lies above the grove. These games — the Actia, sacred toActianApollo — have been designated asOlympian, and they are superintended by theLacedemonians. The other settlements are dependencies ofNicopolis. In earlier times also theActian Games were wont to be celebrated in honor of the god by the inhabitants of the surrounding country — games in which the prize was a wreath — but at the present time they have been set in greater honor byCaesar.
§ 7.7.7 AfterAmbracia comesArgos Amphilochicum, founded byAlcmaeon and his children. According toEphorus, at any rate,Alcmaeon, after the expedition of theEpigoni againstThebes, on being invited byDiomedes, went with him intoAitolia and helped him acquire both this country andAcarnania; and whenAgamemnon summoned them to theTrojan War,Diomedes went, butAlcmaeon stayed inAcarnania, foundedArgos, and named itAmphilochicum after his brother; and he named the river which flows through the country into theAmbracian Gulf "Inachus," after the river in theArgeian country. But according toThucydides,Amphilochus himself, after his return fromTroy, being displeased with the state of affairs atArgos, passed on intoAcarnania, and on succeeding to his brother's dominion founded the city that is named after him.
§ 7.7.8 TheAmphilochians areEpeirotes; and so are the peoples who are situated above them and border on theIllyrian mountains, inhabiting a rugged country — I mean theMolossi, theAthamanes, theAethices, theTymphaei, theOrestae, and also theParoraei and theAtintanes, some of them being nearer to theMacedonians and others to theIonian Sea. It is said thatOrestes once took possession ofOrestias — when is, exile on account of the murder of his mother — and left the country bearing his name; and that he also founded a city and called itArgos Oresticum. But theIllyrian tribes which are near the southern part of the mountainous country and those which are above theIonian Sea are intermingled with these peoples; for aboveEpidamnus andApollonia as far as theCeraunian Mountains dwell theBylliones, theTaulantii, theParthini, and theBrygi. Somewhere nearby are also the silver mines ofDamastion, where thePerisadyes and theEncheleii (also called Sesarethii) together established their dominion; and near these people are also theLyncestae, the territoryDeuriopus, thePelagonianTripolitis, theEordi,Elimeia, andEratyra. In earlier times these peoples were ruled separately, each by its own dynasty. For instance, it was the descendants ofCadmus andHarmonia who ruled over theEncheleii; and the scenes of the stories told about them are still pointed out there. These people, I say, were not ruled by men of native stock; and theLyncestae became subject toArrabaeus, who was of the stock of theBacchiads (Eurydice, the mother ofPhilip,Amyntas' son, wasArrabaeus' daughter's daughter and Sirra was his daughter); and again, of theEpeirotes, theMolossi became subject toPyrrhus, the son ofNeoptolemus the son ofAchilles, and to his descendants, who wereThessalians. But the rest were ruled by men of native stock. Then, because one tribe or another was always getting the mastery over others, they all ended in theMacedonian empire, except a few who dwelt above theIonian Sea. And in fact the regions aboutLyncus,Pelagonia,Orestias, andElimeia, used to be called UpperMacedonia, though later on they were by some also called Free Macedonia. But some go so far as to call the whole of the countryMacedonia, as far asCorcyra, at the same time stating as their reason that in tonsure, language, short cloak, and other things of the kind, the usages of the inhabitants are similar, although, they add, some speak both languages. But when the empire of theMacedonians was broken up, they fell under the power of the Romans. And it is through the country of these tribes that theEgnatian Road runs, which begins atEpidamnus andApollonia. Near the Road toCandavia are not only the lakes which are in the neighborhood ofLychnidus, on the shores of which are salt-fish establishments that are independent of other waters, but also a number of rivers, some emptying into theIonian Sea and others flowing in a southerly direction — I mean theInachus, theAratthus, theAchelous and theEvenus (formerly called the Lycormas); theAratthus emptying into theAmbracian Gulf, theInachus into theAchelous, theAchelous itself and theEvenus into the sea — theAchelous after traversingAcarnania and theEvenus after traversingAitolia. But theErigon, after receiving many streams from theIllyrian mountains and from the countries of theLyncestae,Brygi,Deuriopes, andPelagonians, empties into theAxius.
§ 7.7.9 In earlier times there were also cities among these tribes; at any rate,Pelagonia used to be calledTripolitis, one of which wasAzorus; and all the cities of theDeuriopes on theErigon River were populous, among which wereBryanium,Alalcomenae, andStybara. And Cydrae belonged to theBrygians, whileAiginium, on the border ofAethicia andTricca, belonged to theTymphaei. When one is already near toMacedonia and toThessaly, and in the neighborhood of the Poeus and thePindus Mountains, one comes to the country of theAethices and to the sources of thePeneius River, the possession of which is disputed by theTymphaei and thoseThessalians who live at the foot of thePindus, and to the cityOxyneia, situated on theIon River one hundred and twenty stadia fromAzorus inTripolitis. Near by areAlalcomenae,Aiginium,Europus, and the confluence of theIon River with thePeneius. Now although in those earlier times, as I have said, allEpeirus and theIllyrian country were rugged and full of mountains, such asTomarus and Polyanus and several others, still they were populous; but at the present time desolation prevails in most parts, while the parts that are still inhabited survive only in villages and in ruins. And even the oracle atDodona, like the rest, is virtually extinct.
§ 7.7.10 This oracle, according toEphorus, was founded by thePelasgi. And thePelasgi are called the earliest of all peoples who have held dominion in Greece. And the poet speaks in this way: "O LordZeus,Dodonaean,Pelasgian"; andHesiod: "He came toDodona and the oak-tree, seat of thePelasgi." ThePelasgi I have already discussed in my description ofTyrrhenia; and as for the people who lived in the neighborhood of the sanctuary ofDodona,Homer too makes it perfectly clear from their mode of life, when he calls them "men with feet unwashen, men who sleep upon the ground," that they were barbarians; but whether one should call them "Helli," asPindar does, or "Selli," as is conjectured to be the true reading inHomer, is a question to which the text, since it is doubtful, does not permit a positive answer.Philochorus says that the region round aboutDodona, likeEuboea, was calledHellopia, and that in factHesiod speaks of it in this way: "There is a land calledHellopia, with many a corn-field and with goodly meadows; on the edge of this land a city calledDodona hath been built." It is thought,Apollodorus says, that the land was so called from the marshes around the sanctuary; as for the poet, however,Apollodorus takes it for granted that he did not call the people who lived about the sanctuary "Helli," but "Selli," since (Apollodorus adds) the poet also named a certain riverSelleeis. He names it, indeed, when he says, "From afar, out ofEphyra, from the RiverSelleeis"; however, asDemetrius ofScepsis says, the poet is not referring to theEphyra among theThesprotians, but to that among theEleians, for theSelleeis is among theEleians, he adds, and there is no Selleeis among theThesprotians, nor yet among theMolossi. And as for the myths that are told about the oak-tree and the doves, and any other myths of the kind, although they, like those told aboutDelphi, are in part more appropriate to poetry, yet they also in part properly belong to the present geographical description.
§ 7.7.11 In ancient times, then,Dodona was under the rule of theThesprotians; and so was MountTomarus, orTmarus (for it is called both ways), at the base of which the sanctuary is situated. And both the tragic poets andPindar have calledDodona "ThesprotianDodona." But later on it came under the rule of theMolossi. And it is after theTomarus, people say, that those whom the poet calls interpreters ofZeus — whom he also calls "men with feet unwashen, men who sleep upon the ground" — were called "tomouroi"; and in theOdyssey some so write the words ofAmphinomus, when he counsels the wooers not to attackTelemachus until they inquire ofZeus: "If the tomouroi of greatZeus approve, I myself shall slay, and I shall bid all the rest to aid, whereas if god averts it, I bid you stop." For it is better, they argue, to write "tomouroi" than "themistes"; at any rate, nowhere in the poet are the oracles called "themistes," but it is the decrees, statutes, and laws that are so called; and the people have been called "tomouroi" because "tomouroi" is a contraction of "tomarouroi," the equivalent of "tomarophylakes." Now although the more recent critics say "tomouroi," yet inHomer one should interpret "themistes" (and also "boulai") in a simpler way, though in a way that is a misuse of the term, as meaning those orders and decrees that are oracular, just as one also interprets "themistes" as meaning those that are made by law. For example, such is the case in the following: "to give ear to the decree ofZeus from the oak-tree of lofty foliage.
§ 7.7.12 At the outset, it is true, those who uttered the prophecies were men (this too perhaps the poet indicates, for he calls them "hypophetae," and the prophets might be ranked among these), but later on three old women were designated as prophets, afterDione also had been designated as temple-sharer ofZeus. Suidas, however, in his desire to gratify theThessalians with mythical stories, says that the sanctuary was transferred fromThessaly, from the part ofPelasgia which is aboutScotussa (andScotussa does belong to the territory calledThessaliaPelasgiotis), and also that most of the women whose descendants are the prophetesses of today went along at the same time; and it is from this fact thatZeus was also called "Pelasgian." ButCineas tells a story that is still more mythical.
§ 7.8.1 [fragments.]Cineas says that there was a city inThessaly, and that an oak-tree and the oracle ofZeus were transferred from there toEpeirus. [1a] In earlier times the oracle was in the neighborhood ofScotussa, a city ofPelasgiotis; but when the tree was set on fire by certain people the oracle was transferred in accordance with an oracle whichApollo gave out atDodona. However, he gave out the oracle, not through words, but through certain symbols, as was the case at the oracle ofZeusAmmon inLibya. Perhaps there was something exceptional about the flight of the three pigeons from which the priestesses were wont to make observations and to prophesy. It is further said that in the language of theMolossians and theThesprotians old women are called "peliai" and old men "pelioi." And perhaps the much talked ofPeleiades were not birds, but three old women who busied themselves about the sanctuary. [1b] I mentionedScotussa also in my discussion ofDodona and of the oracle inThessaly, because the oracle was originally in the latter region. [1c] According to the Geographer, a sacred oak tree is revered inDodona, because it was thought to be the earliest plant created and the first to supply men with food. And the same writer also says in reference to the oracular doves there, as they are called, that the doves are observed for the purposes of augury, just as there were some seers who divined from ravens.
§ 7.8.2 Among theThesprotians and theMolossians old women are called "peliai" and old men "pelioi," as is also the case among theMacedonians; at any rate, those people call their dignitaries "peligones" (compare the "gerontes" among theLaconians and theMassaliotes). And this, it is said, is the origin of the myth about the pigeons in theDodonaean oak-tree.
§ 7.8.3 The proverbial phrase, "the copper vessel inDodona," originated thus: In the sanctuary was a copper vessel with a statue of a man situated above it and holding a copper scourge, dedicated by theCorcyraeans; the scourge was three-fold and wrought in chain fashion, with bones strung from it; and these bones, striking the copper vessel continuously when they were swung by the winds, would produce tones so long that anyone who measured the time from the beginning of the tone to the end could count to four hundred. Whence, also, the origin of the proverbial term, "the scourge of theCorcyraeans."
§ 7.8.4 Paeonia is on the east of these tribes and on the west of the Thracian mountains, but it is situated on the north of theMacedonians; and, by the road that runs through the cityGortynium andStobi, it affords a passage to . . . (through which theAxius flows, and thus makes difficult the passage fromPaeonia toMacedonia — just as thePeneius flows throughTempe and thus fortifiesMacedonia on the side of Greece). And on the southPaeonia borders on the countries of theAutariatae, theDardanii, and theArdiaei; and it extends as far as theStrymon. [here a major gap in Strabo, partly filled by fragments, until Book 8.]
§ 7.8.5 [From Fragments...] TheHaliacmon flows into theThermaean Gulf.
§ 7.8.6 Orestis is of considerable extent, and has a large mountain which reaches as far as MountCorax inAitolia and MountParnassus, About this mountain dwell theOrestae themselves, theTymphaei, and the Greeks outside the isthmus that are in the neighborhood ofParnassus,Oita, andPindus. As a whole the mountain is called by a general name,Boeum, but taken part by part it has many names. People say that from the highest peaks one can see both theAegean Sea and theAmbracian andIonian Sea, but they exaggerate, I think. MountPteleum, also, is fairly high; it is situated around theAmbracian Gulf, extending on one side as far as theCorcyraean country and on the other to the sea atLeucas.
§ 7.8.7 Corcyra is proverbially derided as a joke because it was humbled by its many wars.
§ 7.8.8 Corcyra in early times enjoyed a happy lot and had a very large naval force, but was ruined by certain wars and tyrants. And later on, although it was set free by the Romans, it got no commendation, but instead, as an object of reproach, got a proverb: "Corcyra is free, dung where thou wilt."
§ 7.8.9 There remain of Europe, first,Macedonia and the parts ofThrace that are contiguous to it and extend as far asByzantium; secondly, Greece; and thirdly, the islands that are close by.Macedonia, of course, is a part of Greece, yet now, since I am following the nature and shape of the places geographically, I have decided to classify it apart from the rest of Greece and to join it with that part ofThrace which borders on it and extends as far as the mouth of theEuxine and thePropontis. Then, a little further on,Strabo mentionsCypsela and theNebrus River, and also describes a sort of parallelogram in which the whole ofMacedonia lies.
§ 7.8.10 Macedonia is bounded, first, on the west, by the coastline of theAdrias; secondly, on the east, by the meridian line which is parallel to this coastline and runs through the outlets of theNebrus River and through the cityCypsela; thirdly, on the north, by the imaginary straight line which runs through the Bertiscus Mountain, the Scardus, theOrbelus, theRhodope, and theHaemus; for these mountains, beginning at theAdrias, extend on a straight line as far as theEuxine, thus forming towards the south a great peninsula which comprisesThrace together withMacedonia,Epeirus, andAchaea; and fourthly, on the south, by theEgnatian Road, which runs from the cityDyrrhachium towards the east as far asThessaloniceia. And thus the shape ofMacedonia is very nearly that of a parallelogram.
§ 7.8.11 What is now calledMacedonia was in earlier times calledEmathia. And it took its present name fromMacedon, one of its early chieftains. And there was also a city Emathia close to the sea. Now a part of this country was taken and held by certain of theEpeirotes and theIllyrians, but most of it by theBottiaei and theThracians. TheBottiaei came from Brete originally, so it is said, along withBotton as chieftain. As for theThracians, thePieres inhabitedPieria and the region aboutOlympus; thePaeones, the region on both sides of theAxius River, which on that account is calledAmphaxitis; theEdoni, andBisaltae, the rest of the country as far as theStrymon. Of these two peoples the latter are calledBisaltae alone, whereas a part of theEdoni are calledMygdones, a partEdones, and a partSithones. But of all these tribes theArgeadae, as they are called, established themselves as masters, and also theChalcidians ofEuboea; for theChalcidians ofEuboea also came over to the country of theSithones and jointly peopled about thirty cities in it, although later on the majority of them were ejected and came together into one city,Olynthus; and they were named the ThracianChalcidians. [11a] The ethnic ofBotteia is spelled with the "i", according toStrabo in his Seventh Book. And the city is called afterBotton theCretan. [11b] Amphaxion. Two parts of speech. A city. The ethnic of Amphaxion isAmphaxites.
§ 7.8.12 ThePeneius forms the boundary between LowerMacedonia, or that part ofMacedonia which is close to the sea, andThessaly andMagnesia; theHaliacmon forms the boundary of UpperMacedonia; and theHaliacmon also, together with theErigon and theAxius and another set of rivers, form the boundary of theEpeirotes and thePaeonians. [12a] For if, according to the Geographer,Macedonia stretches from theThessalianPelion andPeneius towards the interior as far asPaeonia and theEpeirote tribes, and if the Greeks had atTroy an allied force fromPaeonia, it is difficult to conceive that an allied force came to theTrojans from the aforesaid more distant part ofPaeonia.
§ 7.8.13 Of theMacedonian coastline, beginning at the recess of theThermaean Gulf and atThessaloniceia, there are two parts — one extending towards the south as far asSounion and the other towards the east as far as the ThracianChersonese, thus forming at the recess a sort of angle. SinceMacedonia extends in both directions, I must begin with the part first mentioned. The first portion, then, of this part — I mean the region ofSounion — has above itAttica together with theMegarian country as far as theCrisaean Gulf; after this is thatBoeotian coastline which facesEuboea, and above this coast-line lies the rest ofBoeotia, extending in the direction of the west, parallel toAttica. And he says that theEgnatian Road, also, beginning at theIonian Sea, ends atThessalonike.
§ 7.8.14 As for the ribbon-like stretches of land, he says, I shall first mark off the boundary of the peoples who live in the one which is beside the sea near thePeneius and theHaliacmon. Now thePeneius flows from thePindus Mountain through the middle ofThessaly towards the east; and after it passes through the cities of theLapithae and some cities of thePerrhaebians, it reachesTempe, after having received the waters of several rivers, among which is theEuropus, which the poet calledTitaresius, since it has its sources in theTitarius Mountain; the Titarius Mountain joinsOlympus, and thenceOlympus begins to mark the boundary betweenMacedonia andThessaly; forTempe is a narrow glen betweenOlympus andOssa, and through these narrows thePeneius flows for a distance of forty stadia withOlympus, the loftiest mountain inMacedonia, on the left, and withOssa, near the outlets of the river, on the right. So then,Gyrton, thePerrhaebian andMagnetan city in whichPeirithous andIxion reigned, is situated near the outlets of thePeneius on the right; and the city ofCrannon lies at a distance of as much as one hundred stadia fromGyrton; and writers say that when the poet says, "Verily these twain fromThrace" and what follows, he means by "Ephyri" theCrannonians and by "Phlegyae" theGyrtonians. ButPieria is on the other side of thePeneius.
§ 7.8.15 ThePeneius River rises in thePindus Mountain and flows throughTempe and through the middle ofThessaly and of the countries of theLapithae and thePerrhaebians, and also receives the waters of theEuropus River, whichHomer calledTitaresius; it marks the boundary betweenMacedonia on the north andThessaly on the south. But the source-waters of theEuropus rise in theTitarius Mountain, which is continuous withOlympus. AndOlympus belongs toMacedonia, whereasOssa andPelion belong toThessaly. [15a] ThePeneius rises, according to the Geographer, in that part of thePindus Mountain about which thePerrhaebians live. . . . AndStrabo also makes the following statements concerning thePeneius: ThePeneius rises in thePindus; and leavingTricca on the left it flows aroundAtrax andLarissa, and after receiving the rivers inThessaly passes on throughTempe. And he says that thePeneius flows through the center ofThessaly, receiving many rivers, and that in its course it keepsOlympus on the left andOssa on the right. And at its outlets, on the right, is aMagnetan city,Gyrton, in whichPeirithous andIxion reigned; and not far fromGyrton is a cityCrannon, whose citizens were called by a different name, "Ephyri," just' as the citizens ofGyrton were called "Phlegyae."
§ 7.8.16 Below the foot-hills ofOlympus, along thePeneius River, liesGyrton, thePerrhaebian andMagnetan city, in whichPeirithous andIxion ruled; andCrannon is at a distance of one hundred stadia fromGyrton, and writers say that when the poet says, "Verily these twain fromThrace," he means by "Ephyri" theCrannonians and by "Phlegyae" theGyrtonians. [16a] The city ofCrannon is at a distance of one hundred stadia fromGyrton, according toStrabo. [16b]Homolium, a city ofMacedonia andMagnesia.Strabo in his Seventh Book. [16c] I have said in my description ofMacedonia thatHomolium is close toOssa and is where thePeneius, flowing throughTempe, begins to discharge its waters. [16d] There were several differentEphyras, if indeed the Geographer counts as many as nine. [16e] He (the Geographer) speaks of a cityGyrton, aMagnetan city near the outlets of thePeneius.
§ 7.8.17 The cityDium, in the foot-hills ofOlympus, is not on the shore of theThermaean Gulf, but is at a distance of as much as seven stadia from it. And the cityDium has a village near by,Pimpleia, whereOrpheus lived.
§ 7.8.18 At the base ofOlympus is a cityDium. And it has a village near by,Pimpleia. Here livedOrpheus, theCiconian, it is said — a wizard who at first collected money from his music, together with his soothsaying and his celebration of the orgies connected with the mystic initiatory rites, but soon afterwards thought himself worthy of still greater things and procured for himself a throng of followers and power. Some, of course, received him willingly, but others, since they suspected a plot and violence, combined against him and killed him. And near here, also, isLeibethra.
§ 7.8.19 In the early times the soothsayers also practised music.
§ 7.8.20 AfterDium come the outlets of theHaliacmon; thenPydna,Methone,Alorus, and theErigon andLudias Rivers. TheErigon flows from the country of theTriclari through that of theOrestae and throughPellaea, leaves the city on the left, and meets theAxius; theLudias is navigable inland toPella, a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia.Methone, which lies between the two cities, is about forty stadia fromPydna and seventy fromAlorus.Alorus is in the inmost recess of theThermaean Gulf, and it is calledThessaloniceia because of its fame. NowAlorus is regarded as aBottiaean city, whereasPydna is regarded as aPierian.Pella belongs to lowerMacedonia, which theBottiaei used to occupy; in early times the treasury ofMacedonia was here.Philip enlarged it from a small city, because he was reared in it. It has a headland in what is called LakeLudias; and it is from this lake that theLudias River issues, and the lake itself is supplied by an offshoot of theAxius. TheAxius empties betweenChalastra andTherma; and on this river lies a fortified place which now is calledAbydon, thoughHomer calls itAmydon, and says that thePaeonians went to the aid ofTroy from there, "from afar, out ofAmydon, from wide-flowingAxius." The place was destroyed by theArgeadae.
§ 7.8.21 TheAxius is a muddy stream; butHomer calls it "water most fair," perhaps on account of the spring calledAea, which, since it empties purest water into theAxius, proves that the present current reading of the passage in the poet is faulty. After theAxius, at a distance of twenty stadia, is theEchedorus; then, forty stadia farther on,Thessaloniceia, founded byCassander, and also theEgnatian Road.Cassander named the city after his wifeThessalonice, daughter ofPhilip son ofAmyntas, after he had razed to the ground the towns inCrusis and those on theThermaean Gulf, about twenty-six in number, and had settled all the inhabitants together in one city; and this city is the metropolis of what is nowMacedonia. Among those included in the settlement wereApollonia,Chalastra,Therma,Garescus,Aenea, andCissus; and of these one might suspect thatCissus belonged to Cisses, whom the poet mentions in speaking ofIphidamas, "whom Cisses reared."
§ 7.8.22 After the cityDium comes theHaliacmon River, which empties into theThermaean Gulf. And the part after this, the seaboard of the gulf towards the north as far as theAxius River, is calledPieria, in which is the cityPydna, now called Citrum. Then come the citiesMethone andAlorus. Then the RiversErigon andLudias; and fromLudias to the city ofPella the river is navigable, a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia.Methone is forty stadia distant fromPydna and seventy stadia fromAlorus. NowPydna is aPierian city, whereasAlorus isBottiaean. Now it was in the plain beforePydna that the Romans defeatedPerseus in war and destroyed the kingdom of theMacedonians, and it was in the plain beforeMethone thatPhilip the son ofAmyntas, during the siege of the city, had the misfortune to have his right eye knocked out by a bolt from a catapult.
§ 7.8.23 As forPella, though it was formerly small,Philip greatly enlarged it, because he was reared in it. It has a lake before it; and it is from this lake that theLudias River flows, and the lake is supplied by an offshoot of theAxius. Then theAxius, dividing bothBottiaea and the land calledAmphaxitis, and receiving theErigon River, discharges its waters betweenChalastra andTherma. And on theAxius River lies the place whichHomer callsAmydon, saying that thePaeonians went to the aid ofTroy from there, "from afar, out ofAmydon, from wide-flowingAxius." But since theAxius is muddy and since a certain spring rises inAmydon and mingles "water most fair" with it, therefore the next line, "Axius, whose water most fair is spread o'erAea," is changed to read thus, "Axius, o'er which is spreadAea's water most fair"; for it is not the "water most fair" of theAxius that is spread over the face of the earth, but that of the spring o'er theAxius.
§ 7.8.24 After theAxius River comesThessalonica, a city which in earlier times was calledTherma. It was founded byCassander, who named it after his wife, the daughter ofPhilip the son ofAmyntas. And he transferred to it the towns in the surrounding country, as, for instance,Chalastra,Aenea,Cissus, and also some others. And one might suspect that it was from thisCissus thatHomer'sIphidamas came, whose grandfatherCisseus "reared him,"Homer says, inThrace, which now is calledMacedonia.
§ 7.8.25 Mt.Bermium, also, is somewhere in this region; in earlier times it was occupied byBriges, a tribe ofThracians; some of these crossed over intoAsia and their name was changed toPhryges. AfterThessaloniceia come the remaining parts of theThermaean Gulf as far asCanastraion; this is a headland which forms a peninsula and rises opposite toMagnetis. The name of the peninsula isPallene; and it has an isthmus five stadia in width, through which a canal is cut. On the isthmus is situated a city founded by theCorinthians, which in earlier times was calledPotidaea, although later on it was calledCassandreia, after the same KingCassander, who restored it after it had been destroyed. The distance by sea around this peninsula is five hundred and seventy stadia. And further, writers say that in earlier times the giants lived here and that the country was namedPhlegra; the stories of some are mythical, but the account of others is more plausible, for they tell of a certain barbarous and impious tribe which occupied the place but was broken up byHeracles when, after capturingTroy, be sailed back to his home-land. And here, too, theTrojan women were guilty of their crime, it is said, when they set the ships on fire in order that they might not be slaves to the wives of their captors.
§ 7.8.27 The peninsulaPallene, on whose isthmus is situated the city formerly calledPotidaea and now Cassandreia, was calledPhlegra in still earlier times. It used to be inhabited by the giants of whom the myths are told, an impious and lawless tribe, whomHeracles destroyed. It has four cities,Aphytis,Mende,Scione,Sane. [27a] TheScepsian apparently accepts the opinion neither of this man nor of those who suppose them to be theHalizoni nearPallene, whom I have mentioned in my description ofMacedonia.
§ 7.8.30 NearOlynthus is a hollow place which is called Cantharolethron from what happens there; for when the insect called the Cantharos, which is found all over the country, touches that place, it dies.
§ 7.8.31 AfterCassandreia, in order, comes the remainder of the seaboard of theToronaean Gulf, extending as far asDerrhis. Derrhis is a headland that rises opposite toCanastraion and forms the gulf; and directly oppositeDerrhis, towards the east, are the capes ofAthos; and between is theSingitic Gulf, which is named afterSingus, the ancient city that was on it, now in ruins. After this city comesAcanthus, a city situated on the isthmus ofAthos; it was founded by theAndrii, and from it many call the gulf theAcanthian Gulf.
§ 7.8.32 OppositeCanastrum, a cape ofPallene, isDerrhis, a headland nearCophus Harbor; and these two mark off the limits of theToronaean Gulf . And towards the east, again, lies the cape ofAthos, which marks off the limit of theSingitic Gulf. And so the gulfs of theAegean Sea lie in order, though at some distance from one another, towards the north, as follows: theMaliac, thePagasitic, theThermaean, theToronaean, theSingitic, theStrymonic. The capes are, first, Poseidium, the one between theMaliac and thePagasitic; secondly, the next one towards the north,Sepias; then the one onPallene,Canastrum; thenDerrhis; then comeNymphaion, onAthos on theSingitic Gulf, andAcrathos, the cape that is on theStrymonic Gulf (Mt.Athos is between these two capes, andLemnos is to the east of Mt.Athos); on the north, however, the limit of theStrymonic Gulf is marked byNeapolis.
§ 7.8.33 Acanthus, a city on theSingitic Gulf, is on the coast near the canal ofXerxes.Athos has five cities,Dium,Kleonai,Thyssus,Olophyxis,Acrothoi; andAcrothoi is near the crest ofAthos. Mt.Athos is breast-shaped, has a very sharp crest, and is very high, since those who live on the crest see the sun rise three hours before it rises on the seaboard. And the distance by sea around the peninsula from the cityAcanthus as far asStageirus, the city ofAristotle, is four hundred stadia. On this coast is a harbor,Caprus by name, and also anisle with the same name as the harbor. Then come the outlets of theStrymon; thenPhagres,Galepsus,Apollonia, all cities; then the mouth of theNestus, which is the boundary betweenMacedonia andThrace as fixed byPhilip and his sonAlexander in their times. There is also another set of cities about theStrymonic Gulf, as, for instance,Myrcinus,Argilus,Drabescus, andDatum. The last named has not only excellent and fruitful soil but also dock-yards and gold mines; and hence the proverb, "aDatum of good things," like that other proverb, "spools of good things."
§ 7.8.34 There are very many gold mines inCrenides, where the cityPhilippi now is situated, near Mt.Pangaion. And Mt.Pangaion as well has gold and silver mines, as also the country across, and the country this side, theStrymon River as far asPaeonia. And it is further said that the people who plough thePaeonian land find nuggets of gold.
§ 7.8.35 Mt.Athos is high and breast-shaped; so high that on its crests the sun is up and the people are weary of ploughing by the time cock-crow begins among the people who live on the shore. It was on this shore thatPhamyris the Thracian reigned, who was a man of the same pursuits asOrpheus. Here, too, is to be seen a canal, in the neighborhood ofAcanthus, whereXerxes dug a canal acrossAthos, it is said, and, by admitting the sea into the canal, brought his fleet across from theStrymonic Gulf through the isthmus.Demetrius ofScepsis, however, does not believe that this canal was navigable, for, he says, although as far as ten stadia the ground is deep-soiled and can be dug, and in fact a canal one plethrum in width has been dug, yet after that it is a flat rock, almost a stadium in length, which is too high and broad to admit of being quarried out through the whole of the distance as far as the sea; but even if it were dug thus far, certainly it could not be dug deep enough to make a navigable passage; this, he adds, is whereAlexarchus, the son ofAntipater, laid the foundation ofOuranopolis, with its circuit of thirty stadia. Some of thePelasgi fromLemnos took up their abode on this peninsula, and they were divided into five cities,Kleonai,Olophyxis,Acrothoi,Dium,Thyssus. AfterAthos comes theStrymonic Gulf extending as far as theNestus, the river which marks off the boundary ofMacedonia as fixed byPhilip andAlexander; to be accurate, however, there is a cape which withAthos forms theStrymonic Gulf, I mean the cape which has had on it a city calledApollonia. The first city on this gulf after the harbor of theAcanthians isStageira, the native city ofAristotle, now deserted; this too belongs to theChalcidians and so do its harbor,Caprus, and anisle bearing the same name as the harbor. Then come theStrymon and the inland voyage of twenty stadia toAmphipolis.Amphipolis was founded by theAthenians and is situated in that place which is calledEnnea Hodoi. Then comeGalepsus andApollonia, which were razed to the ground byPhilip.
§ 7.8.36 From thePeneius, he says, toPydna is one hundred and twenty stadia. Along the seaboard of theStrymon and theDateni are, not only the cityNeapolis, but alsoDatum itself, with its fruitful plains, lake, rivers, dock-yards, and profitable gold mines; and hence the proverb, "aDatum of good things," like that other proverb, "spools of good things." Now the country that is on the far side of theStrymon, I mean that which is near the sea and those places that are in the neighborhood ofDatum, is the country of theOdomantes and theEdoni and theBisaltae, both those who are indigenous and those who crossed over fromMacedonia, amongst whomRhesus reigned. AboveAmphipolis, however, and as far as the cityHeracleia, is the country of theBisaltae, with its fruitful valley; this valley is divided into two parts by theStrymon, which has its source in the country of theAgrianes who live round aboutRhodope; and alongside this country liesParorbelia, a district ofMacedonia, which has in its interior, along the valley that begins atEidomene, the citiesCallipolis,Orthopolis,Philippopolis,Garescus. If one goes up theStrymon, one comes toBerge; it, too, is situated in the country of theBisaltae, and is a village about two hundred stadia distant fromAmphipolis. And if one goes fromHeracleia towards the north and the narrows through which theStrymon flows, keeping the river on the right, one hasPaeonia and the region round aboutDoberus,Rhodope, and theHaemus Mountain on the left, whereas on the right one has the region round about theHaemus. This side theStrymon areScotussa, near the river itself, andArethusa, near lakeBolbe. Furthermore, the nameMygdones is applied especially to the people round about the lake. Not only theAxius flows out of the country of thePaeonians, but also theStrymon, for it flows out of the country of theAgrianes through that of theMedi andSinti and empties into the parts that are between theBisaltae and theOdomantes.
§ 7.8.38 Some represent thePaeonians as colonists from thePhrygians, while others represent them as independent founders. And it is said thatPaeonia has extended as far asPelagonia andPieria; thatPelagonia was calledOrestia in earlier times, thatAsteropaeus, one of the leaders who made the expedition fromPaeonia toTroy, was not without good reason called "son ofPelegon," and that thePaeonians themselves were calledPelagonians.
§ 7.8.39 The Homeric "Asteropaeus son ofPelegon" was, as history tells us, fromPaeonia inMacedonia; wherefore "son ofPelegon," for thePaeonians were calledPelagonians.
§ 7.8.40 Since the "paeanismos" of theThracians is called "titanismos" by the Greeks, in imitation of the cry uttered in paeans, theTitans too were calledPelagonians.
§ 7.8.41 It is clear that in early times, as now, thePaeonians occupied much of what is nowMacedonia, so that they could not only lay siege toPerinthus but also bring under their power allCrestonia andMygdonis and the country of theAgrianes as far asPangaeurum.Philippi and the region aboutPhilippi lie above that part of the seaboard of theStrymonic Gulf which extends fromGalepsus as far asNestus. In earlier timesPhilippi was calledCrenides, and was only a small settlement, but it was enlarged after the defeat ofBrutus andCassius.
§ 7.8.43 Off this seaboard lie two islands,Lemnos andThasos. And after the strait ofThasos one comes toAbdera and the scene of the myths connected withAbderus. It was inhabited by theBistonianThracians over whomDiomedes ruled. TheNestus River does not always remain in the same bed, but oftentimes floods the country. Then comeDicaea, a city situated on a gulf, and a harbor. Above these lies theBistonis, a lake which has a circuit of about two hundred stadia. It is said that, because this plain was altogether a hollow and lower than the sea,Heracles, since he was inferior inhorse when he came to get themares of Diomedes, dug a canal through the shore and let in the water of the sea upon the plain and thus mastered his adversaries. One is shown also the royal residence ofDiomedes, which, because of its naturally strong position and from what is actually the case, is called Cartera Come. After the lake, which is midway between, comeXantheia,Maroneia, andIsmarus, the cities of theCicones.Ismarus, however, is now called Ismara; it is nearMaroneia. And near here, also, LakeIsmaris sends forth its stream; this stream is calledOdysseium. And here, too, are what are called the Thasion Cephalae. But the people situated in the interior areSapaei.
§ 7.8.44 Topeira is nearAbdera andMaroneia. [44a] The aforesaidIsmarus, in later times calledIsmara, is, they say, a city of theCicones; it is nearMaroneia, where is also a lake, the stream of which is calledOdysseium; here too is a hero-sanctuary ofMaron, as the Geographer records.
§ 7.8.45 TheSinti, a Thracian tribe, inhabit the islandLemnos; and from this factHomer calls themSinties, when he says, "where me theSinties . . ." [45a]Lemnos: first settled by theThracians who were calledSinties, according toStrabo.
§ 7.8.46 After theNestus River, towards the east, is the cityAbdera, named afterAbderus, whom thehorses ofDiomedes devoured; then, near by, the city Picaea, above which lies a great lake,Bistonis; then the cityMaroneia.
§ 7.8.47 Thrace as a whole consists of twenty-two tribes. But although it has been devastated to an exceptional degree, it can send into the field fifteen thousand cavalry and also two hundred thousand infantry. AfterMaroneia one comes to the cityOrthagoria and to the region aboutSerrhium (a rough coasting voyage) and toTempyra, the little town of theSamothracians, and toCaracoma, another little town, off which lies the islandSamothrace, and toImbros, which is not very far fromSamothrace;Thasos, however, is more than twice as far fromSamothrace asImbros is. FromCaracoma one comes toDoriscus, whereXerxes enumerated his army; then to theHebrus, which is navigable inland toCypsela, a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia. This, he says, was the boundary of theMacedonia which the Romans first took away fromPerseus and afterwards from the Pseudo-Philip. NowPaulus, who capturedPerseus, annexed the Epeirotic tribes toMacedonia, divided the country into four parts for purposes of administration, and apportioned one part toAmphipolis, another toThessaloniceia, another toPella, and another to thePelagonians. Along theHebrus live theCorpili, and, still farther up the river, theBrenae, and then, farthermost of all, theBessi, for the river is navigable thus far. All these tribes are given to brigandage, but most of all theBessi, who, He says, are neighbors to theOdrysae and theSapaei.Bizye was the royal residence of theAstae. The term "Odrysae" is applied by some to all the peoples living above the seaboard from theHebrus andCypsela as far asOdessus — the peoples over whomAmadocus,Cersobleptes,Berisades,Seuthes, andCotys reigned as kings. [47a]Odrysae: a tribe ofThrace;Strabo in his Seventh Book. [47b] The Geographer, in pointing out the great extent ofThrace, says also thatThrace as a whole consists of twenty-two tribes.
§ 7.8.49 Iasion andDardanus, two brothers, used to live inSamothrace. But whenIasion was struck by a thunderbolt because of his sin againstDemeter,Dardanus sailed away fromSamothrace, went and took up his abode at the foot of MountIda, calling the cityDardania, and taught theTrojans theSamothracian Mysteries. In earlier times, however,Samothrace was calledSamos.
§ 7.8.50 Many writers have identified the gods that are worshipped inSamothrace with theCabeiri, though they cannot say who theCabeiri themselves are, just as theCyrbantes andCorybantes, and likewise theCuretes and theIdaeanDactyli, are identified with them. This Thracian island, according to theGeographer, is called Samos because of its height; for "samoi," he says, means "heights." . . . And the Geographer says that in olden timesSamians fromMycale settled in the island, which had been deserted because of a dearth of crops, and that in this way it was called Samos. . . . And the Geographer records also that in earlier timesSamothrace was called Melite, as also that it was rich; forCilicianpirates, he says, secretly broke into thesanctuary inSamothrace, robbed it, and carried off more than a thousand talents.
§ 7.8.51 Near the outlet of theHebrus, which has two mouths, lies the cityAenus, on theMelas Gulf; it was founded byMitylenaeans andCumaeans, though in still earlier times byAlopeconnesians. Then comes CapeSarpedon; then what is called the ThracianChersonesus, which forms thePropontis and theMelas Gulf and theHellespont; for it is a cape which projects towards the south-east, thus connecting Europe withAsia by the strait, seven stadia wide, which is betweenAbydus andSestus, and thus having on the left thePropontis and on the right theMelas Gulf — so called, just asHerodotus andEudoxus say, from theMelas River which empties into it. ButHerodotus, he says, states that this stream was not sufficient to supply the army ofXerxes. The aforesaid cape is closed in by an isthmus forty stadia wide. Now in the middle of the isthmus is situated the cityLysimacheia, named after the king who founded it; and on either side of it lies a city — on theMelas Gulf,Cardia, the largest of the cities on theChersonesus, founded byMilesians andClazomenians but later refounded byAthenians, and on thePropontis,Pactye. And afterCardia comeDrabus andLimnae; thenAlopeconnesus, in which theMelas Gulf comes approximately to an end; then the large headland,Mazusia; then, on a gulf,Eleus, where is the sanctuary ofProtesilaus, opposite which, forty stadia distant, isSigeium, a headland of theTroad; and this is about the most southerly extremity of theChersonesus, being slightly more than four hundred stadia fromCardia; and if one sails around the rest of the circuit, towards the other side of the isthmus, the distance is slightly more than this. [51a]Aenus; a city ofThrace, calledApsinthus.Strabo in his Seventh Book. The cityAenus is in the outlet of theHebrus, which has two mouths, and was founded byCumaeans; and it was so called because there was an Aenius River and also a village of the same name nearOssa.
§ 7.8.52 TheThracian Chersonesus forms three seas: thePropontis in the north, theHellespont in the east, and theMelas Gulf in the south, into which empties theMelas River, which bears the same name as the gulf.
§ 7.8.53 On the isthmus of theChersonesus are situated three cities: near theMelas Gulf,Cardia, and near thePropontis,Pactye, and near the middle,Lysimachia. The length of the isthmus is forty stadia.
§ 7.8.55 On this voyage along the coast of theChersonesus after leavingEleus, one comes first to the entrance which leads through the narrows into thePropontis; and this entrance is called the beginning of theHellespont. And here is the cape called theCynossema; though some call itHecabe'sSema, and in fact her tomb is pointed out after one has doubled the cape. Then one comes toMadytus, and to Cape Sestias, where the pontoon bridge ofXerxes was built; and, after these, toSestus. The distance fromEleus to the place of the pontoon-bridge is one hundred and seventy stadia. AfterSestus one comes toAegospotami, eighty stadia, a town which has been razed to the ground, where it is said, the stone fell at the time of thePersian war. Then comesCallipolis, from which the distance across toLampsacus inAsia is forty stadia; thenCrithote, a little town which has been razed to the ground; thenPactye; thenMacron Teichos,Leuce Acte,Hieron Oros, andPerinthus, founded by theSamians: thenSelybria. Above these places lies Silta; and theHieron Oros is revered by all the natives and is a sort of acropolis of the country. Asphalt discharges into the sea oppositeProconnesus, only one hundred and twenty stadia distant; and the quarry of white marble in theProconnesus is both large and excellent. AfterSelybria come the riversAthyras andBathynias; and then,Byzantium and the places which come in order thereafter as far as theCyanean Rocks. [55a] As forSestus and the whole of theChersonesus, I have already discussed them in my description of the regions ofThrace. [55b]Sestus, a colony of theLesbians, as is alsoMadytus, as the Geographer says, is aChersonesian city thirty stadia distant fromAbydus, from harbor to harbor.
§ 7.8.56 The distance fromPerinthus toByzantium is six hundred and thirty stadia; but from theHebrus andCypsela toByzantium, as far as theCyanean Rocks, three thousand one hundred, asArtemidorus says; and the entire distance from theIonian Gulf atApollonia as far asByzantium is seven thousand three hundred and twenty stadia, thoughPolybius adds one hundred and eighty more, since he adds a third of a stadium to the eight stadia in the mile.Demetrius ofScepsis, however, in his work On the Marshalling of theTrojan Forces calls the distance fromPerinthus toByzantium six hundred stadia and the distance toParium equal thereto; and he represents thePropontis as one thousand four hundred stadia in length and five hundred in breadth; while as for theHellespont, he calls its narrowest breadth seven stadia and its length four hundred.
§ 7.8.57 There is no general agreement in the definition of the term "Hellespont": in fact, there are several opinions concerning it. For some writers call "Hellespont" the whole of thePropontis; others, that part of thePropontis which is this sidePerinthus; others go on to add that part of the outer sea which faces theMelas Gulf and the open waters of theAegean Sea, and these writers in turn each comprise different sections in their definitions, some the part fromSigeium toLampsacus and Cysicus, orParium, orPriapus, another going on to add the part which extends fromSigrium in theLesbian Isle. And some do not shrink even from applying the nameHellespont to the whole of the high sea as far as theMyrtoan Sea, since, asPindar says in his hymns, those who were sailing withHeracles fromTroy throughHelle's maidenly strait, on touching theMyrtoan Sea, ran back again toCos, becauseZephyrus blew contrary to their course. And in this way, also, they require that the whole of theAegean Sea as far as theThermaean Gulf and the sea which is aboutThessaly andMacedonia should be calledHellespont, invokingHomer also as witness; forHomer says, "thou shalt see, if thou dost wish and hast a care therefor, my ships sailing o'er the fishyHellespont at very early morn"
§ 8.1.1 Acarnania I began my description by going over all the western parts of Europe comprised between the inner and the outer sea; and now that I have encompassed in my survey all the barbarian tribes in Europe as far as theTanais and also a small part of Greece,Macedonia, I now shall give an account of the remainder of the geography of Greece. This subject was first treated byHomer; and then, after him, by several others, some of whom have written special treatises entitled Harbours, or Coasting Voyages, or General Descriptions of theEarth, or the like; and in these is comprised also the description of Greece. Others have set forth the topography of the continents in separate parts of their general histories, for instance,Ephorus andPolybius. Still others have inserted certain things on this subject in their treatises on physics and mathematics, for instance,Poseidonius andHipparchus. Now although the statements of the others are easy to pass judgment upon, yet those ofHomer require critical inquiry, since he speaks poetically, and not of things as they now are, but of things as they were in antiquity, which for the most part have been obscured by time. Be this as it may, as far as I can I must undertake the inquiry; and I shall begin where I left off. My account ended, on the west and the north, with the tribes of theEpeirotes and of theIllyrians, and, on the east, with those of theMacedonians as far asByzantium. After theEpeirotes and theIllyrians, then, come the following peoples of the Greeks: theAcarnanians, theAitolians, and theOzolian Locrians; and, next, thePhocians andBoeotians; and opposite these, across the arm of the sea, is thePeloponnesus, which with these encloses theCorinthian Gulf, and not only shapes the gulf but also is shaped by it; and afterMacedonia, theThessalians (extending as far as theMalians) and the countries of the rest of the peoples outside theIsthmus, 3 as also of those inside.
§ 8.1.2 There have been many tribes in Greece, but those which go back to the earliest times are only as many in number as the Greek dialects which we have learned to distinguish. But though the dialects themselves are four in number, we may say that the Ionic is the same as the ancientAttic, for theAttic people of ancient times were calledIonians, and from that stock sprang thoseIonians who colonizedAsia and used what is now called the Ionic speech; and we may say that theDoric dialect is the same as the Aeolic, for all the Greeks outside theIsthmus, except theAthenians and theMegarians and theDorians who live aboutParnassus, are to this day still calledAeolians. And it is reasonable to suppose that theDorians too, since they were few in number and lived in a most rugged country, have, because of their lack of intercourse with others, changed their speech and their other customs to the extent that they are no longer a part of the same tribe as before. And this was precisely the case with theAthenians; that is, they lived in a country that was both thin-soiled and rugged, and for this reason, according toThucydides, 5 their country remained free from devastation, and they were regarded as an indigenous people, who always occupied the same country, since no one drove them out of their country or even desired to possess it. This, therefore, as one may suppose, was precisely the cause of their becoming different both in speech and in customs, albeit they were few in number. And just as the Aeolic element predominated in the parts outside theIsthmus, so too the people inside theIsthmus were in earlier timesAeolians; and then they became mixed with other peoples, since, in the first place,Ionians fromAttica seized theAegialus, and, secondly, theHeracleidae brought back theDorians, who founded bothMegara and many of the cities of thePeloponnesus. TheIonians, however, were soon driven out again by theAchaeans, an Aeolic tribe; and so there were left in thePeloponnesus only the two tribes, theAeolian and theDorian. Now all the peoples who had less intercourse with theDorians — as was the case with theArcadians and with theEleians, since the former were wholly mountaineers and had no share in the allotments of territory, while the latter were regarded as sacred to theOlympianZeus and hence have long lived to themselves in peace, especially because they belonged to the Aeolic stock and had admitted the army which came back withOxylus 8 about the time of the return of theHeracleidae — these peoples, I say, spoke the Aeolic dialect, whereas the rest used a sort of mixture of the two, some leaning more to the Aeolic and some less. And, I might almost say, even now the people of each city speaks a different dialect, although, because of the predominance which has been gained by theDorians, one and all are reputed to speak theDoric. Such, then, are the tribes of the Greeks, and such in general terms is their ethnographical division. Let me now take them separately, following the appropriate order, and tell about them.
§ 8.1.3 Ephorus says that, if one begins with the western parts,Acarnania is the beginning of Greece; for, he adds,Acarnania is the first to border on the tribes of theEpeirotes. But just asEphorus, using the seacoast as his measuring-line, begins withAcarnania (for he decides in favor of the sea as a kind of guide in his description of places, because otherwise he might have represented parts that border on the land of theMacedonians and theThessalians as the beginning), so it is proper that I too, following the natural character of the regions, should make the sea my counsellor. Now this sea, issuing forth out of theSicilian Sea, on one side stretches to theCorinthian Gulf, and on the other forms a large peninsula, thePeloponnesus, which is closed by a narrow isthmus. Thus Greece consists of two very large bodies of land, the part inside theIsthmus, and the part outside, which extends throughPylae as far as the outlet of thePeneius (this latter is theThessalian part of Greece); but the part inside theIsthmus is both larger and more famous. I might almost say that thePeloponnesus is the acropolis of Greece as a whole; for, apart from the splendor and power of the tribes that have lived in it, the very topography of Greece, diversified as it is by gulfs, many capes, and, what are the most significant, large peninsulas that follow one another in succession, suggests such hegemony for it. The first of the peninsulas is thePeloponnesus which is closed by an isthmus forty stadia in width. The second includes the first; and its isthmus extends in width fromPagae inMegaris toNisaea, the naval station of theMegarians, the distance across being one hundred and twenty stadia from sea to sea. The third likewise includes the second; and its isthmus extends in width from the recess of theCrisaean Gulf as far asThermopylae — the imaginary straight line, about five hundred and eight stadia in length, enclosing within the peninsula the whole ofBoeotia and cutting obliquelyPhocis and the country of theEpicnemidians. The fourth is the peninsula whose isthmus extends from theAmbracian Gulf throughOita andTrachinia to theMaliac Gulf andThermopylae — the isthmus being about eight hundred stadia in width. But there is another isthmus, more than one thousand stadia in width, extending from the sameAmbracian Gulf through the countries of theThessalians and theMacedonians to the recess of theThermaean Gulf. So then, the succession of the peninsulas suggests a kind of order, and not a bad one, for me to follow in my description; and I should begin with the smallest, but most famous, of them.
§ 8.2.1 Now thePeloponnesus is like a leaf of a plane tree in shape, its length and breadth being almost equal, that is, about fourteen hundred stadia. Its length is reckoned from the west to the east, that is, fromChelonatas throughOlympia andMegalopolis to theIsthmus; and its width, from the south towards the north, that is, fromMaleae throughArcadia toAegium. The perimeter, not following the sinuosities of the gulfs, is four thousand stadia, according toPolybius, althoughArtemidorus adds four hundred more; but following the sinuosities of the gulfs, it is more than five thousand six hundred. The width of theIsthmus at the "Diolcus," where the ships are hauled overland from one sea to the other, is forty stadia, as I have already said.
§ 8.2.2 The western part of this peninsula is occupied by theEleians and theMessenians, whose countries are washed by theSicilian Sea. In addition, they also hold a part of the seacoast in both directions, for theEleian country curves towards the north and the beginning of theCorinthian Gulf as far as CapeAraxus (opposite which, across the straits, lieAcarnania and the islands off its coast —Zacynthos,Cephallenia,Ithaca, and also theEchinades, among which isDulichium), whereas the greater part of theMessenian country opens up towards the south and the Libyan Sea as far as what is calledThyrides, nearTaenarum. Next after theEleian country comes the tribe of theAchaeans, whose country faces towards the north and stretches along theCorinthian Gulf, ending atSikyonia. Then come in successionSikyon andCorinth, the territory of the latter extending as far as theIsthmus. After theMessenian country come theLaconian and theArgive, the latter also extending as far as theIsthmus. The gulfs on this coast are: first, theMessenian; second, theLaconian; third, theArgolic; fourth, theHermionic; and fifth, theSaronic, by some called the Salaminiac. Of these gulfs the first two are filled by the Libyan Sea, and the others by theCretan andMyrtoan Seas. Some, however, call theSaronic Gulf "Strait" or "Sea." In the interior of the peninsula isArcadia, which touches as next door neighbor the countries of all those other tribes.
§ 8.2.3 TheCorinthian Gulf begins, on the one side, at the outlets of theEvenus (though some say at the outlets of theAchelous, the river that separates theAcarnanians and theAitolians), and, on the other, atAraxus; for here the shores on either side first draw notably nearer to one another; then in their advance they all but meet atRhium andAntirrhium, where they leave between them a strait only about five stadia in width.Rhium, belonging to theAchaeans, is a low-lying cape; it bends inwards (and it is in fact called "Sickle "). It lies betweenPatrae andAegium, and possesses a sanctuary ofPoseidon.Antirrhium is situated on the common boundary ofAitolia andLocris; and people call itMolycrianRhium. Then, from here, the shoreline on either side again draws moderately apart, and then, advancing into theCrisaean Gulf, it comes to an end there, being shut in by the westerly limits ofBoeotia andMegaris. The perimeter of theCorinthian Gulf if one measures from theEvenus toAraxus, is two thousand two hundred and thirty stadia; but if one measures from theAchelous, it is about a hundred stadia more. Now from theAchelous to theEvenus the coast is occupied byAcarnanians; and thence toAntirrhium, byAitolians; but the remaining coast, as far as theIsthmus, belongs to thePhocians, theBoeotians andMegaris — a distance of one thousand one hundred and eighteen stadia. The sea fromAntirrhium as far as theIsthmus is calledAlcyonian, it being a part of theCrisaean Gulf. Again, from theIsthmus toAraxus the distance is one thousand and thirty stadia. Such, then, in general terms, is the position and extent of thePeloponnesus, and of the land that lies opposite to it across the arm of the sea as far as the recess; and such, too, is the character of the gulf that lies between the two bodies of land. Now I shall describe each part in detail, beginning with theEleian country.
§ 8.3.1 Eleia At the present time the whole of the seaboard that lies between the countries of theAchaeans and theMessenians, and extends inland to theArcadian districts ofPholoe, of theAzanes, and of theParrhasians, is called theEleian country. But in early times this country was divided into several domains; and afterwards into two — that of theEpeians and that under the rule ofNestor the son ofNeleus; just asHomer, too, states, when he calls the land of theEpeians by the name of "Elis" ("and passed goodlyElis, where theEpeians hold sway" ), and the land under the rule ofNestor, "Pylus," through which, he says, theAlpheius flows ("of theAlpheius, that floweth in wide stream through the land of thePylians"). Of courseHomer also knew ofPylus as a city ("and they reachedPylus, the well-built city ofNestor"), but theAlpheius does not flow through the city, nor past it either; in fact, another river flows past it, a river which some call "Pamisus" and others "Amathus" (whence, apparently, the epithet "Emathoeis" which has been applied to thisPylus), but theAlpheius flows through thePylian country.
§ 8.3.2 What is now the city ofElis had not yet been founded inHomer's time; in fact, the people of the country lived only in villages. And the country was called CoeleElis from the fact in the case, for the most and best of it was "Coele." It was only relatively late, after thePersian wars, that people came together from many communities into what is now the city ofElis. And I might almost say that, with only a few exceptions, the otherPeloponnesian places named by the poet were also named by him, not as cities, but as countries, each country being composed of several communities, from which in later times the well-known cities were settled. For instance, inArcadia,Mantineia was settled byArgive colonists from five communities; andTegea from nine; and alsoHeraea from nine, either byCleombrotus or byCleonymus. And in the same way the cityAegium was made up of seven or eight communities; the cityPatrae of seven; and the cityDyme of eight. And in this way the cityElis was also made up of the communities of the surrounding country (one of these . . . theAgriades). ThePeneius River flows through the city past the gymnasium. And theEleians did not make this gymnasium until a long time after the districts that were underNestor had passed into their possession.
§ 8.3.3 These districts werePisatis (of whichOlympia was a part),Triphylia, and the country of theCauconians. TheTriphylians were so called from the fact that three tribes of people had come together in that country — that of theEpeians, who were there at the outset, and that of theMinyans, who later settled there, and that of theEleians, who last dominated the country. But some name theArcadians in the place of theMinyans, since theArcadians had often disputed the possession of the country; and hence the samePylus was called bothArcadianPylus andTriphylianPylus.Homer calls this whole country as far asMessene "Pylus," giving it the same name as the city. But CoeleElis was distinct from the places subject toNestor, as is shown in theCatalogue of Ships by the names of the chieftains and of their abodes. I say this because I am comparing present conditions with those described byHomer; for we must needs institute this comparison because of the fame of the poet and because of our familiarity with him from our childhood, since all of us believe that we have not successfully treated any subject which we may have in hand until there remains in our treatment nothing that conflicts with what the poet says on the same subject, such confidence do we have in his words. Accordingly, I must give conditions as they now are, and then, citing the words of the poet, in so far as they bear on the matter, take them also into consideration.
§ 8.3.4 In theEleian country, on the north, is a cape,Araxus, sixty stadia distant fromDyme, anAchaean city. This cape, then, I put down as the beginning of the seaboard of theEleians. After this cape, as one proceeds towards the west, one comes to the naval station of theEleians,Cyllene, from which there is a road leading inland to the present cityElis, a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia.Homer, too, mentions thisCyllene when he says, "Otus, aCyllenian, a chief of theEpeians," for he would not have represented a chieftain of theEpeians as being from theArcadian mountain.Cyllene is a village of moderate size; and it has theAsclepius made byColotes — an ivory image that is wonderful to behold. AfterCyllene one comes to the promontoryChelonatas, the most westerly point of thePeloponnesus. OffChelonatas lies an isle, and also some shallows that are on the common boundary betweenCoele Elis and the country of thePisatae; and from here the voyage toCephallenia is not more than eighty stadia. Somewhere in this neighborhood, on the aforesaid boundary line, there also flows the River Elison or Elisa.
§ 8.3.5 It is betweenChelonatas andCyllene that the RiverPeneius empties; as also the RiverSelleeis, which is mentioned by the poet and flows out ofPholoe. On theSelleeis is situated a cityEphyra, which is to be distinguished from theThesprotian,Thessalian, andCorinthianEphyras; it is a fourthEphyra, and is situated on the road that leads toLasion, being either the same city asBoenoa (for thus Oinoe is usually called), or else near that city, at a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia from the city of theEleians. This, apparently, is theEphyra whichHomer calls the home of the mother ofTlepolemus the son ofHeracles (for the expeditions ofHeracles were in this region rather than in any of the other three) when he says, "whom he had brought out ofEphyra, from the RiverSelleeis" . and there is no River Selleeis near the otherEphyras. Again, he says of the corselet ofMeges: "this corseletPhyleus once brought out ofEphyra, from the RiverSelleeis." And thirdly, the man-slaying drugs: forHomer says thatOdysseus came toEphyra "in search of a man-slaying drug, that he might have wherewithal to smear his arrows"; and in speaking ofTelemachus the wooers say: "or else he means to go to the fertile soil ofEphyra, that from there he may bring deadly drugs"; forNestor, in his narrative of his war against theEpeians, introduces the daughter ofAugeas, the king of theEpeians, as a mixer of drugs: "I was the first that slew a man, even the spearmanMulius; he was a son-in-law ofAugeias, having married his eldest daughter, and she knew all drugs that are nourished by the wide earth." But there is another RiverSelleeis nearSikyon, and near the river a villageEphyra. And in theAgraean district ofAitolia there is a villageEphyra; its inhabitants are called Ephyri. And there are still other Ephyri, I mean the branch of thePerrhaebians who live nearMacedonia (theCrannonians), as also thoseThesprotian Ephyri ofCichyrus, which in earlier times was calledEphyra.
§ 8.3.6 Apollodorus, in teaching us how the poet is wont to distinguish between places of the same name, says that as the poet, in the case of Orchomenus, for instance, refers to theArcadianOrchomenus as "abounding in flocks" and to theBoeotianOrchomenus as "Minyeian," and refers to Samos as theThracian Samos by connecting it with a neighboring island, "betwixtSamos andImbros," in order to distinguish it fromIonianSamos — so too,Apollodorus says, the poet distinguishes theThesprotianEphyra both by the word "distant" and by the phrase "from the River Selleeis." 5 In this, however,Apollodorus is not in agreement with whatDemetrius ofScepsis says, from whom he borrows most of his material; forDemetrius says that there is no River Selleeis among theThesprotians, but says that it is in theEleian country and flows past theEphyra there, as I have said before. In this statement, therefore,Apollodorus was in want of perception; as also in his statement concerningOichalia, because, although Oichalia is the name of not merely one city, he says that there is only one city ofEurytus theOichalian, namely, theThessalianOichalia, in reference to whichHomer says: "Those that held<Oichalia, city ofEurytus theOichalian." What Oichalia, pray, was it from whichThamyris had set out when, nearDorium, theMuses "metThamyris the Thracian and put a stop to his singing"? ForHomer adds: "as he was on his way fromOichalia, fromEurytus theOichalian." For if it was theThessalianOichalia,Demetrius ofScepsis is wrong again when he says that it was a certainArcadianOichalia, which is now calledAndania; but ifDemetrius is right,ArcadianOichalia was also called "city ofEurytus," and therefore there was not merely one Oichalia; butApollodorus says that there was one only.
§ 8.3.7 It was between the outlets of thePeneius and theSelleeis, near theScollium, thatPylus was situated; not the city ofNestor, but anotherPylus which has nothing in common with theAlpheius, nor with thePamisus (orAmathus, if we should call it that). Yet there are some who do violence toHomer's words, seeking to win for themselves the fame and noble lineage ofNestor; for, since history mentions three Pyluses in thePeloponnesus (as is stated in this verse: "There is aPylus in front ofPylus; yea, and there is still another Pylus,") thePylus in question, theLepreaticPylus inTriphylia andPisatis, and a third, theMessenianPylus nearCoryphasium, the inhabitants of each try to show that the Pylus in their own country is "emathoeis" and declare that it is the native place ofNestor. However, most of the more recent writers, both historians and poets, say thatNestor was aMessenian, thus adding their support to thePylus which has been preserved down to their own times. But the writers who follow the words ofHomer more closely say that thePylus ofNestor is thePylus through whose territory theAlpheius flows. And theAlpheius flows throughPisatis andTriphylia. However, the writers fromCoele Elis have not only supported their ownPylus with a similar zeal, but have also attached to it tokens of recognition, pointing out a place called Gerenus, a river called Geron, and another river called Geranius, and then confidently asserting thatHomer's epithet forNestor, "Gerenian," was derived from these. But theMessenians have done the selfsame thing, and their argument appears at least more plausible; for they say that their ownGerena is better known, and that it was once a populous place. Such, then, is the present state of affairs as regardsCoele Elis.
§ 8.3.8 But when the poet divides this country into four parts and also speaks of the leaders as four in number, his statement is not clear: "And they too that inhabited bothBuprasium and goodlyElis, so much thereof as is enclosed byHyrmine andMyrsinus on the borders, and by theOlenian Rock andAleisium, — of these men, I say, there were four leaders, and ten swift ships followed each leader, and manyEpeians embarked thereon." For when he speaks of both theBuprasians and theEleians asEpeians but without going on and calling theBuprasiansEleians, it would seem that he is not dividing theEleian country into four parts, but rather the country of theEpeians, which he had already divided into only two parts; and thusBuprasium would not be a part ofElis but rather of the country of theEpeians. For it is clear that he calls theBuprasiansEpeians; "as when theEpeians were burying lordAmarynces atBuprasium." ButBuprasium now appears to have been a territory of theEleian country, having in it a settlement of the same name, which was also a part ofElis. And again, when he names the two together, saying "bothBuprasium and goodlyElis," and then divides the country into four parts, it seems as though he is classifying the four parts under the general designation "bothBuprasium and goodlyElis." It seems likely that at one time there was a considerable settlement by the name ofBuprasium in theEleian country which is no longer in existence (indeed, only that territory which is on the road that leads toDyme from the present city ofElis is now so called); and one might suppose that at that timeBuprasium had a certain preeminence as compared withElis, just as theEpeians had in comparison with theEleians; but later on the people were calledEleians instead ofEpeians. And thoughBuprasium was a part ofElis, they say thatHomer, by a sort of poetic figure, names the part with the whole, as for instance when he says: "throughoutHellas and mid-Argos," and "throughoutHellas andPhthia," and "theCuretes fought and theAitolians," and "the men ofDulichium and the holyEchinades," forDulichium is one of theEchinades. And more recent poets also use this figure; for instance,Hipponax, when he says: "to those who have eaten the bread of theCyprians and the wheaten bread of theAmathusians," for theAmathusians are alsoCyprians; andAlcman, when he says: "when she had left lovelyCypros and seagirtPaphos" andAeschylus, when he says: "since thou dost possess the whole ofCypros andPaphos as thine allotment." But ifHomer nowhere calls theBuprasiansEleians, I will say that there are many other facts also that he does not mention; yet this is no proof that they are not facts, but merely that he has not mentioned them.
§ 8.3.9 ButHecataeus ofMiletus says that theEpeians are a different people from theEleians; that, at any rate, theEpeians joinedHeracles in his expedition againstAugeas and helped him to destroy bothAugeas andElis. And he says, further, thatDyme is anEpeian and anAchaean city. However, the early historians say many things that are not true, because they were accustomed to falsehoods on account of the use of myths in their writings; and on this account, too, they do not agree with one another concerning the same things. Yet it is not incredible that theEpeians, even if they were once at variance with theEleians and belonged to a different race, later became united with theEleians as the result of prevailing over them, and with them formed one common state; and that they prevailed even as far asDyme. For although the poet has not namedDyme, it is not unreasonable to suppose that in his timeDyme belonged to theEpeians, and later to theIonians, or, if not to them, at all events to theAchaeans who took possession of their country. Of the four parts, inside whichBuprasium is situated, onlyHyrmine andMyrsinus belong to theEleian country, whereas the remaining two are already on the frontiers ofPisatis, as some writers think.
§ 8.3.10 NowHyrmine was a small town. It is no longer in existence, but nearCyllene there is a mountain promontory calledHormina orHyrmina.Myrsinus is the presentMyrtuntium, a settlement that extends down to the sea, and is situated on the road which runs fromDyme intoElis, and is seventy stadia distant from the city of theEleians. TheOlenian Rock is surmised to be what is now calledScollis; for we are obliged to state what is merely probable, because both the places and the names have undergone changes, and because in many cases the poet does not make himself very clear.Scollis is a rocky mountain common to the territories of theDymaeans, theTritaeans, and theEleians, and borders on anotherArcadian mountain calledLampeia, which is one hundred and thirty stadia distant fromElis, one hundred fromTritaea, and the same fromDyme; the last two areAchaean cities.Aleisium is the presentAlesiaion, a territory in the neighborhood ofAmphidolis, in which the people of the surrounding country hold a monthly market. It is situated on the mountain road that runs fromElis toOlympia. In earlier times it was a city ofPisatis, for the boundaries have varied at different times on account of the change of rulers. The poet also calls Aleisium "Hill of Aleisium," when he says: "until we caused ourhorses to set foot onBuprasium, rich in wheat, and on theOlenian Rock, and ofAleisium where is the place called Hill" (we must interpret the words as a case of hyperbaton, that is, as equivalent to "and where is the place called Hill of Aleisium"). Some writers point also to a river Aleisius.
§ 8.3.11 Since certain people inTriphylia nearMessenia are calledCauconians, and sinceDyme also is calledCauconian by some writers, and since in theDymaean territory betweenDyme andTritaea there is also a river which is calledCaucon, in the feminine gender, writers raise the question whether there are not two different sets ofCauconians, one in the region ofTriphylia, and the other in the region ofDyme,Elis, and the RiverCaucon. This river empties into another river which is calledTeutheas, in the masculine gender;Teutheas has the same name as one of the little towns which were incorporated intoDyme, except that the name of this town, "Teuthea," is in the feminine gender, and is spelled without the s and with the last syllable long. In this town is the sanctuary of the NemydianArtemis. TheTeutheas empties into theAchelous which flows byDyme and has the same name as theAcarnanian river. It is also called the "Peirus"; byHesiod, for instance, when he says: "he dwelt on theOlenian Rock along the banks of a river, widePeirus." Some change the reading to "Pierus," wrongly. They raise that question about theCauconians, they say, because, whenAthene in the guise ofMentor, in theOdyssey says toNestor, "but in the morning I will go to the great-heartedCauconians, where a debt is due me, in no way new or small. But do thou send this man on his way with a chariot and with thy son, since he has come to thy house, and give himhorses," the poet seems to designate a certain territory in the country of theEpeians which was held by theCauconians, theseCauconians being a different set from those inTriphylia and perhaps extending as far as the territory ofDyme. Indeed, one should not fail to inquire both into the origin of the epithet ofDyme, "Cauconian," and into the origin of the name of the river "Caucon," because the question who thoseCauconians were to whomAthene says she is going in order to recover the debt offers a problem; for if we should interpret the poet as meaning theCauconians inTriphylia nearLepreum, I do not see how his account can be plausible. Hence some read: "where a debt is due me in goodlyElis, no small one." But this question will be investigated with clearer results when I describe the country that comes next after this, I meanPisatis andTriphylia as far as the borders of the country of theMessenians.
§ 8.3.12 AfterChelonatas comes the long seashore of thePisatans; and then Cape Pheia. And there was also a small town calledPheia: "beside the walls ofPheia, about the streams ofIardanus," for there is also a small river nearby. According to some,Pheia is the beginning ofPisatis. OffPheia lie a little island and a harbor, from which the nearest distance from the sea toOlympia is one hundred and twenty stadia. Then comes another cape,Ichthys, which, likeChelonatas, projects for a considerable distance towards the west; and from it the distance toCephallenia is again one hundred and twenty stadia. Then comes the mouth of theAlpheius, which is distant two hundred and eighty stadia fromChelonatas, and five hundred and forty five fromAraxus. It flows from the same regions as theEurotas, that is, from a place calledAsea, a village in the territory ofMegalopolis, where there are two springs near one another from which the rivers in question flow. They sink and flow beneath the earth for many stadia and then rise again; and then they flow down, one intoLaconia and the other intoPisatis. The stream of theEurotas reappears where the district calledBleminatis begins, and then flows pastSparta itself, traverses a long glen nearHelus (a place mentioned by the poet), and empties betweenGythium, the naval station ofSparta, andAcraea. But theAlpheius, after receiving the waters of theLadon, theErymanthus, and other rivers of less significance, flows throughPhrixa,Pisatis, andTriphylia pastOlympia itself to theSicilian Sea, into which it empties betweenPheia andEpitalium. Near the outlet of the river is the sacred precinct ofArtemisAlpheionia orAlpheiusa (for the epithet is spelled both ways), which is about eighty stadia distant fromOlympia. An annual festival is also celebrated atOlympia in honor of this goddess as well as in honor ofArtemisElaphia andArtemisDaphnia. The whole country is full of sanctuaries ofArtemis,Aphrodite, and theNymphs, being situated in sacred precincts that are generally full of flowers because of the abundance of water. And there are also numerous shrines ofHermes on the roads, and sanctuaries ofPoseidon on the shores. In the sanctuary ofArtemisAlpheionia are very famous paintings by twoCorinthians,Cleanthes andAregon: byCleanthes the "Capture ofTroy" and the "Birth ofAthene," and byAregon the "Artemis Borne Aloft on a Griffin."
§ 8.3.13 Then comes the mountain ofTriphylia that separatesMacistia fromPisatis; then another river called Chalcis, and a spring called Cruni, and a settlement called Chalcis, and, after these,Samicum, where is the most highly reveredsanctuary of theSamianPoseidon. About the sanctuary is a sacred precinct full of wild olive trees. The people ofMacistum used to have charge over it; and it was they, too, who used to proclaim the armistice day called "Samiac." But all theTriphylians contribute to the maintenance of the sanctuary.
§ 8.3.14 In the general neighborhood of these sanctuaries, above the sea, at a distance of thirty stadia or slightly more, is situated theTriphylianPylus, also called theLepreaticPylus, whichHomer calls "emathoeis" and transmits to posterity as the fatherland ofNestor, as one might infer from his words, whether it be that the river that flows pastPylus towards the north (now called Mamaus, orArkadikos) was calledAmathus in earlier times, so thatPylus got its epithet "emathoeis" from "Amathus," or that this river was calledPamisus, the same as two rivers inMessenia, and that the derivation of the epithet of the city is uncertain; for it is false, they say, that either the river or the country about it is "amathodes." And also the sanctuary ofAthene Scilluntia atScillus, in the neighborhood ofOlympia near Phellon, is one of the famous sanctuaries. NearPylus, towards the east, is amountain named afterMinthe, who, according to myth, became the concubine ofHades, was trampled under foot byKore, and was transformed into garden-mint, the plant which some call Hedyosmos. Furthermore, near the mountain is a precinct sacred toHades, which is revered by theMacistians too, and also a grove sacred toDemeter, which is situated above thePylian plain. This plain is fertile; it borders on the sea and stretches along the whole distance betweenSamicum and the RiverNeda. But the shore of the sea is narrow and sandy, so that one could not refuse to believe thatPylus got its epithet "emathoeis" therefrom.
§ 8.3.15 Towards the north, on the borders ofPylus, were two littleTriphylian cities,Hypana andTympaneae; the former of these was incorporated intoElis, whereas the latter remained as it was. And further, two rivers flow near these places, theDalion and theAcheron, both of them emptying into theAlpheius. TheAcheron has been so named by virtue of its close relation toHades; for, as we know, not only the sanctuaries ofDemeter andKore have been held in very high honor there, but also those ofHades, perhaps because of "the contrariness of the soil," to use the phrase ofDemetrius ofScepsis. For whileTriphylia brings forth good fruit, it breeds red-rust and produces rush; and therefore in this region it is often the case that instead of a large crop there is no crop at all.
§ 8.3.16 To the south ofPylus isLepreum. This city, too, was situated above the sea, at a distance of forty stadia; and betweenLepreum and the Annius [Alpheius?] is thesanctuary of theSamianPoseidon, at a distance of one hundred stadia from each. This is the sanctuary at which the poet saysTelemachus found thePylians performing the sacrifice: "And they came toPylus, the well-built city ofNeleus; and the people were doing sacrifice on the seashore, slayingbulls that were black all over, to the dark-hairedEnosichthon (Earth-shaker)." Now it is indeed allowable for the poet even to fabricate what is not true, but when practicable he should adapt his words to what is true and preserve his narrative; but the more appropriate thing was to abstain from what was not true. TheLepreatans held a fertile territory; and that of theCyparissians bordered on it. Both these districts were taken and held by theCauconians; and so was theMacistus (by some called Platanistus). The name of the town is the same as that of the territory. It is said that there is a tomb ofCaucon in the territory ofLepreum — whetherCaucon was a progenitor of the tribe or one who for some other reason had the same name as the tribe.
§ 8.3.17 There are several accounts of theCauconians; for it is said that, like thePelasgians, they were anArcadian tribe, and, again like thePelasgians, that they were a wandering tribe. At any rate, the poet tells us that they came toTroy as allies of theTrojans. But he does not say whence they come, though they seem to have come fromPaphlagonia; for inPaphlagonia there is a people calledCauconiatae whose territory borders on that of theMariandyni, who are themselvesPaphlagonians. But I shall speak of them at greater length when I come to my description of that region. At present I must add the following to my account of theCauconians inTriphylia. Some say that the whole of what is. now calledEleia, fromMessenia as far asDyme, was calledCauconia.Antimachus, at any rate, calls all the inhabitants bothEpeians andCauconians. Others, however, say that theCauconians did not occupy the whole ofEleia, but lived there in two separate divisions, one division inTriphylia nearMessenia, and the other in Buprasis and CoeleElis nearDyme. AndAristotle has knowledge of their having been established at this latter place especially. And in fact the last view agrees better with whatHomer says, and furnishes a solution of the question asked above, for in this view it is assumed thatNestor lived in theTriphylianPylus, and that the parts towards the south and east (that is, the parts that are contiguous toMessenia and theLaconian country) were subject to him; and these parts were held by theCauconians, so that if one went by land fromPylus toLacedemon his journey necessarily must have been made through the territory of theCauconians; and yet the sanctuary of theSamiacPoseidon and the mooring-place near it, whereTelemachus landed, lie off towards the northwest. So then, if theCauconians live only here, the account of the poet is not conserved; for instance,Athene, according toSotades, bidsNestor to sendTelemachus toLacedemon "with chariot and son" to the parts that lie towards the east, and yet she says that she herself will go to the ship to spend the night, towards the west, and back the same way she came, and she goes on to say that "in the morning" she will go "amongst the great-heartedCauconians" to collect a debt, that is, she will go forward again. How, pray? ForNestor might have said: "But theCauconians are my subjects and live near the road that people travel toLacedemon. Why, therefore, do you not travel withTelemachus and his companions instead of going back the same way you came?" And at the same time it would have been proper for one who was going to people subject toNestor to collect a debt — "no small debt," as she says — to request aid fromNestor, if there should be any unfairness (as is usually the case) in connection with the contract; but this she did not do. If, then, theCauconians lived only there, the result would be absurd; but if some of theCauconians had been separated from the rest and had gone to the regions nearDyme inEleia, thenAthene would be speaking of her journey thither, and there would no longer be anything incongruous either in her going down to the ship or in her withdrawing from the company of travellers, because their roads lay in opposite directions. And similarly, too, the puzzling questions raised in regard toPylus may find an appropriate solution when, a little further on in my chorography, I reach theMessenianPylus.
§ 8.3.18 A part of the inhabitants ofTriphylia were calledParoreatae; they occupied mountains, in the neighborhood ofLepreum andMacistum, that reach down to the sea near theSamiac Poseidium.
§ 8.3.19 At the base of these mountains, on the seaboard, are two caves. One is thecave of the nymphs calledAnigriades; the other is the scene of the stories of the daughters ofAtlas and of the birth ofDardanus. And here, too, are the sacred precincts called the Ionaion and the Eurycydeium.Samicum is now only a fortress, though formerly there was also a city which was calledSamos, perhaps because of its lofty situation; for they used to call lofty places "Samoi." And perhapsSamicum was the acropolis ofArene, which the poet mentions in theCatalogue: "And those who dwelt inPylus and lovelyArene." For while they cannot with certainty discoverArene anywhere, they prefer to conjecture that this is its site; and the neighboring RiverAnigrus, formerly calledMinyeius, gives no slight indication of the truth of the conjecture, for the poet says: "And there is a RiverMinyeius which falls into the sea nearArene." For near the cave of the nymphs calledAnigriades is a spring which makes the region that lies below it swampy and marshy. The greater part of the water is received by theAnigrus, a river so deep and so sluggish that it forms a marsh; and since the region is muddy, it emits an offensive odor for a distance of twenty stadia, and makes the fish unfit to eat. In the mythical accounts, however, this is attributed by some writers to the fact that certain of theCentaurs here washed off the poison they got from theHydra, and by others to the fact thatMelampus used these cleansing waters for the purification of theProetides. The bathing-water from here cures leprosy, elephantiasis, and scabies. It is said, also, that theAlpheius was so named from its being a cure for leprosy. At any rate, since both the sluggishness of theAnigrus and the backwash from the sea give fixity rather than current to its waters, it was called the "Minyeius" in earlier times, so it is said, though some have perverted the name and made it "Minteius" instead. But the word has other sources of derivation, either from the people who went forth withChloris, the mother ofNestor, from the MinyeianOrchomenus, or from theMinyans, who, being descendants of theArgonauts, were first driven out ofLemnos intoLacedemon, and thence intoTriphylia, and took up their abode aboutArene in the country which is now called Hypaesia, though it no longer has the settlements of theMinyans. Some of theseMinyans sailed withTheras, the son ofAutesion, who was a descendant ofPolyneices, to the island which is situated betweenCyrenaea andCrete ("Calliste its earlier name, butThera its later," asCallimachus says), and foundedThera, the mother-city ofCyrene, and designated the island by the same name as the city.
§ 8.3.20 Between theAnigrus and the mountain from which it flows are to be seen the meadow and tomb ofIardanus, and also theAchaeae, which are abrupt cliffs of that same mountain above which, as I was saying, the citySamos was situated. However,Samos is not mentioned at all by the writers of the Circumnavigations — perhaps because it had long since been torn down and perhaps also because of its position; for thePoseidium is a sacred precinct, as I have said, near the sea, and above it is situated a lofty hill which is in front of theSamicum of today, on the site of whichSamos once stood, and thereforeSamos was not visible from the sea. Here, too, is a plain calledSamicum; and from this one might get more conclusive proof that there was once a city calledSamos. And further, the poem entitledRhadine (of whichStesichorus is reputed to be the author), which begins, "Come, thou clear-voicedMuse,Erato, begin thy song, voicing to the tune of thy lovely lyre the strain of the children ofSamos," refers to the children of theSamos in question; forRhadine, who had been betrothed to a tyrant ofCorinth, the author says, set sail fromSamos (not meaning, of course, theIonianSamos) while the west wind was blowing, and with the same wind her brother, he adds, went toDelphi as chief of an embassy; and her cousin, who was in love with her, set out forCorinth in his chariot to visit her. And the tyrant killed them both and sent their bodies away on a chariot, but repented, recalled the chariot, and buried their bodies.
§ 8.3.21 From thisPylus andLepreum to theMessenianPylus andCoryphasium (a fortress situated on the sea) and to the adjacent islandSphagia, the distance is about four hundred stadia; from theAlpheius seven hundred and fifty; and fromChelonatas one thousand and thirty. In the intervening space are both the sanctuary of theMacistianHeracles and theAcidon River. TheAcidon flows past the tomb ofIardanus and pastChaa — a city that was once in existence nearLepreum, where is also the Aepasian Plain. It was for the possession of thisChaa, some say, that the war between theArcadians andPylians, of whichHomer tells us, arose in a dispute; and they think that one should write, "Would that I were in the bloom of my youth, as when thePylians and theArcadians gathered together and fought at the swift-flowingAcidon, beside the walls ofChaa" — instead of "Celadon" and "Pheia"; for this region, they say, is nearer than the other to the tomb ofIardanus and to the country of theArcadians.
§ 8.3.22 Cyparissia is on theTriphylian Sea, and so arePyrgoi, and theAcidon andNeda Rivers. At the present time the stream of theNeda is the boundary betweenTriphylia andMessenia (an impetuous stream that comes down fromLycaeus, anArcadian mountain, out of a spring, which, according to the myth,Rhea, after she had given birth toZeus, caused to break forth in order to have water to bathe in); and it flows pastPhigalia, opposite the place where the Pyrgetans, last of theTriphylians, border on theCyparissians, first of theMessenians; but in the early times the division between the two countries was different, so that some of the territories across theNeda were subject toNestor — not onlyCyparisseeis, but also some other parts on the far side. Just so, too, the poet prolongs thePylian Sea as far as the seven cities whichAgamemnon promised toAchilles: "and all are situated near the sea of sandyPylus;" for this phrase is equivalent to "near thePylian Sea."
§ 8.3.23 Be that as it may, next in order after sailing pastCyparisseeis towards theMessenianPylus andCoryphasium one comes toErana, which some wrongly think was in earlier times calledArene by the same name as thePylianArene, and also to CapePlatamodes, from which the distance toCoryphasium and to what is now calledPylus is one hundred stadia. Here, too, is a small island,Prote, and on it a town of the same name. Perhaps I would not be examining at such length things that are ancient, and would be content merely to tell in detail how things now are, if there were not connected with these matters legends that have been taught us from boyhood; and since different men say different things, I must act as arbiter. In general, it is the most famous, the oldest, and the most experienced men who are believed; and since it isHomer who has surpassed all others in these respects, I must likewise both inquire into his words and compare them with things as they now are, as I was saying a little while ago.
§ 8.3.24 I have already inquired intoHomer's words concerningCoele Elis andBuprasium. Concerning the country that was subject toNestor,Homer speaks as follows: "And those who dwelt inPylus and lovelyArene andThryum, fording-place of theAlpheius, and well-builtAepy, and also those who were inhabitants ofCyparisseeis andAmphigeneia andPteleon andHelus andDorium, at which place theMuses metThamyris the Thracian, and put a stop to his singing while he was on his way fromOichalia fromEurytus theOichalian." It isPylus, then, with which our investigation is concerned, and about it we shall make inquiry presently. AboutArene I have already spoken. The city which the poet now callsThryum he elsewhere callsThryoessa: "There is a certain city,Thryoessa, a steep hill, far away on theAlpheius." He calls it "fording-place of theAlpheius" because the river could be crossed on foot, as it seems, at this place. But it is now calledEpitalium (a small place inMacistia). As for "well-builtAepy," some raise the question which of the two words is the epithet and which is the city, and whether it is theMargalae of today, inAmphidolia. Now Margalae is not a natural stronghold, but another place is pointed out which is a natural stronghold, inMacistia. The man, therefore, who suspects that the latter place is meant byHomer calls the name of the city "Aepy" from what is actually the case in nature (compare Helus, Aegialus, and several other names of places); whereas the man who suspects that "Margala" is meant does the reverse perhaps.Thryum, orThryoessa, they say, isEpitalium, because the whole of this country is full of rushes, particularly the rivers; and this is still more conspicuous at the fordable places of the stream. But perhaps, they say,Homer called the ford "Thryum" and calledEpitalium "well-builtAepy"; forEpitalium is fortified by nature. And in fact he speaks of a "steep hill" in other places: "There is a certain city,Thryoessa, a steep hill, far away on theAlpheius, last city of sandyPylus."
§ 8.3.25 Cyparisseeis is in the neighborhood of theMacistia of earlier times (whenMacistia still extended across theNeda), but it is no longer inhabited, as is also the case withMacistum. But there is another, theMessenianCyparissia; it, too, is now called by the same name as theMacistian and in like manner, namely,Cyparissia, in the singular number and in the feminine gender, whereas only the river is now calledCyparisseeis. AndAmphigeneia, also, is inMacistia, in the neighborhood of the Hypsoeis River, where is the sanctuary ofLeto.Pteleum was a settlement of the colony from theThessalianPteleum, for, asHomer tells us, there was aPteleum inThessaly too: "andAntron, near the sea, and grassyPteleum;" but now it is a woody, uninhabited place, and is called Pteleasium. As forHelus, some call it a territory in the neighborhood of theAlpheius, while others go on to call it a city, as they do theLaconianHelus: "andHelus, a city near the sea;" but others call it a marsh, the marsh in the neighborhood of Alorium, where is the sanctuary of theHeleian Artemis, whose worship was under the management of theArcadians, for this people had the priesthood. As forDorium, some call it a mountain, while others call it a plain, but nothing is now to be seen; and yet by some the Aluris of today, or Alura, situated in what is called theAulon ofMessenia, is calledDorium. And somewhere in this region is also theOichalia ofEurytus (theAndania of today, a smallArcadian town, with the same name as the towns inThessaly andEuboea), whence, according to the poet,Thamyris the Thracian came toDorium and was deprived of the art of singing.
§ 8.3.26 From these facts, then, it is clear that the country subject toNestor, all of which the poet calls "land of thePylians," extends on each side of theAlpheius; but theAlpheius nowhere touches eitherMessenia orCoele Elis. For the fatherland ofNestor is in this country which we callTriphylian, orArcadian, orLeprean,Pylus. And the truth is that, whereas the other places calledPylus are to be seen on the sea, thisPylus is more than thirty stadia above the sea — a fact that is also clear from the verses ofHomer, for, in the first place, a messenger is sent to the boat after the companions ofTelemachus to invite them to an entertainment, and, secondly,Telemachus on his return fromSparta does not permitPeisistratus to drive to the city, but urges him to turn aside towards the ship, knowing that the road towards the city is not the same as that towards the place of anchorage. And thus the return voyage ofTelemachus might be spoken of appropriately in these words: "And they went past Cruni and fair-flowing Chalcis. And the sun set and all the ways grew dark; and the ship, rejoicing in the breeze ofZeus, drew near toPhea, and on past goodlyElis, where theEpeians hold sway." Thus far, then, the voyage is towards the north, but thence it bends in the direction of the east. That is, the ship abandons the voyage that was set out upon at first and that led straight toIthaca, because there the wooers had set the ambush "in the strait betweenIthaca and ruggedSamos." "And thence again he steered for the islands that are thoai;" but by "thoai" the poet means the islands that are "pointed." These belong to theEchinades group and are near the beginning of theCorinthian Gulf and the outlets of theAchelous. Again, after passing byIthaca far enough to put it south of him,Telemachus turns round towards the proper course betweenAcarnania andIthaca and makes his landing on the other side of the island — not at theCephallenian strait which was being guarded by the wooers.
§ 8.3.27 At any rate, if one should conceive the notion that theEleianPylus is the Pylus ofNestor, the poet could not appropriately say that the ship, after putting to sea from there, was carried past Cruni andChalcis before sunset, then drew near toPhea by night, and then sailed pastEleia; for these places are to the south ofEleia: first,Phea, thenChalcis, then Cruni, and then theTriphylianPylus andSamicum. This, then, would be the voyage for one who is sailing towards the south fromEleianPylus, whereas one who is sailing towards the north, whereIthaca is, leaves all these parts behind him, and also must sail pastEleia itself — and that before sunset, though the poet says after sunset. And further, if one should go on to make a second supposition, that theMessenianPylus andCoryphasium are the beginning of the voyage fromNestor's, the distance would be considerable and would require more time. At any rate, merely the distance toTriphylianPylus and theSamiacPoseidium is four hundred stadia; and the first part of the coasting-voyage is not "past Cruni andChalcis" andPhea (names of obscure rivers, or rather creeks), but past theNeda; then past theAcidon; and then past theAlpheius and the intervening places. And on this supposition those other places should have been mentioned later, for the voyage was indeed made past them too.
§ 8.3.28 Furthermore, the detailed account whichNestor recites toPatroclus concerning the war that took place between thePylians and theEleians pleads for what I have been trying to prove, if one observes the verses of the poet. For in them the poet says that, sinceHeracles had ravaged thePylian country to the extent that all the youth were slain and that of all the twelve sons ofNeleus onlyNestor, then in his earliest youth, had been left, and since theEpeians had conceived a contempt forNeleus because of his old age and lack of defenders, they began to treat thePylians in an arrogant and wanton manner. So, in return for this treatment,Nestor gathered together all he could of the people of his homeland, made an attack, he says, uponEleia, and herded together very much booty, "fifty herds ofcattle, and as many flocks ofsheep, and as many droves ofswine," and also as many herds ofgoats, and one hundred and fifty sorrel mares, most of them with foals beneath them. "And these," he says, "we drove within NeleianPylus, to the city, in the night," meaning, first, that it was in the daytime that the driving away of the booty and the rout of those who came to the rescue took place (when he says he killedItymoneus), and, secondly, that it was in the nighttime that the return took place, so that it was night when they arrived at the city. And while thePylians were busied with the distribution of the booty and with offering sacrifice, theEpeians, on the third day, after assembling in numbers, both footmen and horsemen, came forth in their turn against thePylians and encamped aroundThryum, which is situated on theAlpheius River. And when thePylians learned this, they forthwith set out to the rescue; they passed the night in the neighborhood of theMinyeius River nearArene, and thence arrived at theAlpheius "in open sky," that is, at midday. And after they offered sacrifice to the gods and passed the night near the river, they joined battle at early dawn; and after the rout took place, they did not stop pursuing and slaying the enemy until they set foot onBuprasium "and on theOlenian Rock and where is the place called Hill of Aleisium, whenceAthene turned the people back again;" and a little further on the poet says: "But theAchaeans drove back their swifthorses fromBuprasium toPylus."
§ 8.3.29 From all this, then, how could one suppose that either theEleian orMessenianPylus is meant? Not theEleianPylus, because, if thisPylus was being ravaged byHeracles, the country of theEpeians was being ravaged by him at the same time; but this is theEleian country. How, pray, could a people whose country had been ravaged at the same time and were of the same stock, have acquired such arrogance and wantonness towards a people who had been wronged at the same time? And how could they overrun and plunder their own homeland? And how could bothAugeas andNeleus be rulers of the same people at the same time if they were personal enemies? If toNeleus "a great debt was owing in goodlyElis. Fourhorses, prize-winners, with their chariots, had come to win prizes and were to run for a tripod; but theseAugeas, lord of men, detained there, though he sent away the driver." And if this is whereNeleus lived,Nestor too must have lived there. How, pray, could the poet say of theEleians and theBuprasians, "there were four rulers of them, and ten swift ships followed each man, and manyEpeians embarked"? And the country, too, was divided into four parts; yetNestor ruled over no one of these, but over them "that dwelt inPylus and in lovelyArene," and over the places that come after these as far asMessene. Again, how could theEpeians, who in their turn went forth to attack thePylians, set out for theAlpheius andThryum? And how, after the battle took place, after they were routed, could they flee towardsBuprasium? And again, if it was theMessenianPylus whichHeracles had ravaged, how could a people so far distant as theEpeians act wantonly towards them, and how could theEpeians have been involved in numerous contracts with them and have defaulted these by cancelling them, so that the war resulted on that account? And how couldNestor, when he went forth to plunder the country, when he herded together booty consisting of bothswine andcattle, none of which could travel fast or far, have accomplished a journey of more than one thousand stadia to thatPylus which is nearCoryphasium? Yet on the third day they all came toThryoessa and the RiverAlpeius to besiege the stronghold! And how could these places belong to those who were in power inMessenia, when they were held byCauconians andTriphylians andPisatans? And as forGerena, orGerenia (for the word is spelled both ways), perhaps some people named it that to suit a purpose, though it is also possible that the place was by chance so named. And, in general, sinceMessenia was classified as subject toMenelaus, as was also theLaconian country (as will be clear from what I shall say later), and since thePamisus and theNedon flow throughMessenia, whereas theAlpheius nowhere touches it (theAlpheius "that floweth in broad stream through the land of thePylians," over whichNestor ruled), what plausibility could there be in an account which landsNestor in a foreign realm and robs him of the cities that are attributed to him in theCatalogue, and thus makes everything subject toMenelaus?
§ 8.3.30 It remains for me to tell aboutOlympia, and how everything fell into the hands of theEleians. The sanctuary is inPisatis, less than three hundred stadia distant fromElis. In front of the sanctuary is situated a grove of wild olive trees, and the stadium is in this grove. Past the sanctuary flows theAlpheius, which, rising inArcadia, flows between the west and the south into theTriphylian Sea. At the outset the sanctuary got fame on account of the oracle of theOlympianZeus; and yet, after the oracle failed to respond, the glory of the sanctuary persisted none the less, and it received all that increase of fame of which we know, on account both of the festal assembly and of theOlympian Games, in which the prize was a crown and which were regarded as sacred, the greatest games in the world. The sanctuary was adorned by its numerous offerings, which were dedicated there from all parts of Greece. Among these was theZeus of beaten gold dedicated byCypselus the tyrant ofCorinth. But the greatest of these was theimage ofZeus made byPheidias ofAthens, son ofCharmides; it was made of ivory, and it was so large that, although the temple was very large, the artist is thought to have missed the proper symmetry, for he showedZeus seated but almost touching the roof with his head, thus making the impression that ifZeus arose and stood erect he would unroof the temple. Certain writers have recorded the measurements of theimage, andCallimachus has set them forth in an iambic poem.Panaenus the painter, who was the nephew and collaborator ofPheidias, helped him greatly in decorating theimage, particularly the garments, with colors. And many wonderful paintings, works ofPanaenus, are also to be seen round the temple. It is related ofPheidias that, whenPanaenus asked him after what model he was going to make the likeness ofZeus, he replied that he was going to make it after the likeness set forth byHomer in these words: "Cronion spoke, and nodded assent with his dark brows, and then the ambrosial locks flowed streaming from the lord's immortal head, and he caused greatOlympus to quake." A noble description indeed, as appears not only from the "brows" but from the other details in the passage, because the poet provokes our imagination to conceive the picture of a mighty personage and a mighty power worthy of aZeus, just as he does in the case ofHera, at the same time preserving what is appropriate in each; for ofHera he says, "she shook herself upon the throne, and caused loftyOlympus to quake." What in her case occurred when she moved her whole body, resulted in the case ofZeus when he merely "nodded with his brows," although his hair too was somewhat affected at the same time. This, too, is a graceful saying about the poet, that "he alone has seen, or else he alone has shown, the likenesses of the gods." TheEleians above all others are to be credited both with the magnificence of the sanctuary and with the honor in which it was held. In the times of theTrojan War, it is true, or even before those times, they were not a prosperous people, since they had been humbled by thePylians, and also, later on, byHeracles whenAugeas their king was overthrown. The evidence is this: TheEleians sent only forty ships toTroy, whereas thePylians andNestor sent ninety. But later on, after the return of theHeracleidae, the contrary was the case, for theAitolians, having returned with theHeracleidae under the leadership ofOxylus, and on the strength of ancient kinship having taken up their abode with theEpeians, enlarged CoeleElis, and not only seized much ofPisatis but also gotOlympia under their power. What is more, theOlympian Games are an invention of theirs; and it was they who celebrated the first Olympiads, for one should disregard the ancient stories both of the founding of the sanctuary and of the establishment of the games — some alleging that it wasHeracles, one of theIdaeanDactyli, who was the originator of both, and others, that it wasHeracles the son ofAlcmene andZeus, who also was the first to contend in the games and win the victory; for such stories are told in many ways, and not much faith is to be put in them. It is nearer the truth to say that from thefirst Olympiad, in which theEleianCoroebus won thestadium-race, until thetwenty-sixth Olympiad, theEleians had charge both of the sanctuary and of the games. But in the times of theTrojan War, either there were no games in which the prize was a crown or else they were not famous, neither theOlympian nor any other of those that are now famous. In the first place,Homer does not mention any of these, though he mentions another kind — funeral games. And yet some think that he mentions theOlympian Games when he says thatAugeas deprived the driver of "fourhorses, prize-winners, that had come to win prizes." And they say that thePisatans took no part in theTrojan War because they were regarded as sacred toZeus. But neither was thePisatis in whichOlympia is situated subject toAugeas at that time, but only theEleian country, nor were theOlympian Games celebrated even once inEleia, but always inOlympia. And the games which I have just cited fromHomer clearly took place inElis, where the debt was owing: "for a debt was owing to him in goodlyElis, fourhorses, prize-winners." And these were not games in which the prize was a crown (for thehorses were to run for a tripod), as was the case atOlympia. After thetwenty-sixth Olympiad, when they had got back their homeland, thePisatans themselves went to celebrating the games because they saw that these were held in high esteem. But in later timesPisatis again fell into the power of theEleians, and thus again the direction of the games fell to them. TheLacedemonians also, after the last defeat of theMessenians, cooperated with theEleians, who had been their allies in battle, whereas theArcadians and the descendants ofNestor had done the opposite, having joined with theMessenians in war. And theLacedemonians cooperated with them so effectually that the whole country as far asMessene came to be calledEleia, and the name has persisted to this day, whereas, of thePisatans, theTriphylians, and theCauconians, not even a name has survived. Further, theEleians settled the inhabitants of "sandyPylus" itself inLepreum, to gratify theLepreatans, who had been victorious in a war, and they broke up many other settlements, and also exacted tribute of as many a they saw inclined to act independently.
§ 8.3.31 Pisatis first became widely famous on account of its rulers, who were most powerful: they wereOinomaus, andPelops who succeeded him, and the numerous sons of the latter. AndSalmoneus, too, is said to have reigned there; at any rate, one of the eight cities into whichPisatis is divided is calledSalmone. So for these reasons, as well as on account of the sanctuary atOlympia, the country has gained wide repute. But one should listen to the old accounts with reserve, knowing that they are not very commonly accepted; for the later writers hold new views about many things and even tell the opposite of the old accounts, as when they say thatAugeas ruled overPisatis, butOinomaus andSalmoneus overEleia; and some writers combine the two tribes into one. But in general one should follow only what is commonly accepted. Indeed, the writers do not even agree as to the derivation of the namePisatis; for some derive it from a cityPisa, which bears the same name as the spring; the spring, they say, was called "Pisa," the equivalent of "pistra," that is "potistra"; and they point out the site of the city on a lofty place between Ossa andOlympus, two mountains that bear the same name as those inThessaly. But some say that there was no city by the name ofPisa (for if there had been, it would have been one of the eight cities), but only a spring, now calledPisa, nearCicysium, the largest of the eight cities; andStesichorus, they explain, uses the term "city" for the territory calledPisa, just asHomer callsLesbos the "city ofMacar"; soEuripides in hisIon, "there isEuboea, a neighboring city toAthens;" and in hisRhadamanthys, "who hold theEuboean land, a neighboring city;" andSophocles in hisMysians, "The whole country, stranger, is calledAsia, but the city of theMysians is calledMysia."
§ 8.3.32 Salmone is situated near the spring of that name from which flows theEnipeus River. [The river empties into theAlpheius, and is now called the Barnichius. ]It is said thatTyro fell in love withEnipeus: "She loved a river, the divineEnipeus." For there, it is said, her fatherSalmoneus reigned, just asEuripides also says in hisAeolus. Some write the name of the river inThessaly "Eniseus"; it flows from MountOthrys, and receives theApidanus, which flows down out ofPharsalus. NearSalmone isHeracleia, which is also one of the eight cities; it is about forty stadia distant fromOlympia and is situated on theCytherius River, where is the sanctuary of theIoniades Nymphs, who have been believed to cure diseases with their waters. NearOlympia isArpina, also one of the eight cities, through which flows the RiverParthenias, on the road that leads up toPheraea.Pheraea is inArcadia[, and it is situated aboveDymaea andBuprasium andElis, that is, to the north ofPisatis.] Here, too, isCicysium, one of the eight cities; and alsoDyspontium, which is situated in a plain and on the road that leads fromElis toOlympia; but it was destroyed, and most of its inhabitants emigrated toEpidamnus andApollonia.Pholoe, anArcadian mountain, is also situated aboveOlympia, and very close to it, so that its foothills are inPisatis. Both the whole ofPisatis and most parts ofTriphylia border onArcadia; and on this account most of the Pylian districts mentioned in theCatalogue are thought to beArcadian; the well-informed, however, deny this, for they say that theErymanthus, one of the rivers that empty into theAlpheius, forms a boundary ofArcadia and that the districts in question are situated outside that river.
§ 8.3.33 Ephorus says thatAetolus, after he had been driven bySalmoneus, the king of theEpeians and thePisatans, out ofEleia intoAitolia, named the country after himself and also united the cities there under one metropolis; andOxylus, a descendant ofAetolus and a friend ofTemenus and theHeracleidae who accompanied him, acted as their guide on their way back to thePeloponnesus, and apportioned among them that part of the country which was hostile to them, and in general made suggestions regarding the conquest of the country; and in return for all this he received as a favor the permission to return toEleia, his ancestral land; and he collected an army and returned fromAitolia to attack theEpeians who were in possession ofElis; but when theEpeians met them with arms, and it was found that the two forces were evenly matched,Pyraechmes theAitolian andDegmenus theEpeian, in accordance with an ancient custom of the Greeks, advanced to single combat.Degmenus was lightly armed with a bow, thinking that he would easily overcome a heavy-armed opponent at long range, butPyraechmes armed himself with a sling and a bag of stones, after he had noticed his opponent's ruse (as it happened, the sling had only recently been invented by theAitolians); and since the sling had longer range,Degmenus fell, and theAitolians drove out theEpeians and took possession of the land; and they also assumed the superintendence, then in the hands of theAchaeans, of the sanctuary atOlympia; and because of the friendship ofOxylus with theHeracleidae, a sworn agreement was promptly made by all thatEleia should be sacred toZeus, and that whoever invaded that country with arms should he under a curse, and that whoever did not defend it to the extent of his power should be likewise under a curse; consequently those who later founded the city of theEleians left it without a wall, and those who go through the country itself with an army give up their arms and then get them back again after they have passed out of its borders; andIphitus celebrated theOlympian Games, theEleians now being a sacred people; for these reasons the people flourished, for whereas the other peoples were always at war with one another, theEleians alone had profound peace, not only they, but their alien residents as well, and so for this reason their country became the most populous of all; butPheidon theArgive, who was the tenth in descent fromTemenus and surpassed all men of his time in ability (whereby he not only recovered the whole inheritance ofTemenus, which had been broken up into several parts, but also invented the measures called "Pheidonian," and weights, and coinage struck from silver and other metals) —Pheidon, I say, in addition to all this, also attacked the cities that had been captured previously byHeracles, and claimed for himself the right to celebrate all the games thatHeracles had instituted. And he said that theOlympian Games were among these; and so he invadedEleia and celebrated the games himself, theEleians, because of the Peace, having no arms wherewith to resist him, and all the others being under his domination; however, theEleians did not record this celebration in their public register, but because of his action they also procured arms and began to defend themselves; and theLacedemonians cooperated with them, either because they envied them the prosperity which they had enjoyed on account of the peace, or because they thought that they would have them as allies in destroying the power ofPheidon, for he had deprived them of the hegemony over thePeloponnesus which they had formerly held; and theEleians did help them to destroy the power ofPheidon, and theLacedemonians helped theEleians to bring bothPisatis andTriphylia under their sway. The length of the voyage along the coast of theEleia of today, not counting the sinuosities of the gulfs, is, all told, twelve hundred stadia. So much forEleia.
§ 8.4.1 MesseniaMessenia borders onEleia; and for the most part it inclines round towards the south and the Libyan Sea. Now in the time of theTrojan War this country was classed as subject toMenelaus, since it was a part ofLaconia, and it was calledMessene, but the city now namedMessene whose acropolis wasIthome, had not yet been founded; but after the death ofMenelaus, when those who succeeded to the government ofLaconia had become enfeebled, theNeleidae began to rule overMessenia. And indeed at the time of the return of theHeracleidae and of the division of the country which then took place,Melanthus was king of theMessenians, who were an autonomous people, although formerly they had been subject toMenelaus. An indication of this is as follows: The seven cities whichAgamemnon promised to give toAchilles were on theMessenian Gulf and the adjacentAsinaean Gulf, so called after theMessenianAsine; these cities were "Cardamyle andEnope and grassyHire and sacredPherae and deep-meadowedAntheia and beautifulAepeia and vine-cladPedasus;" and surelyAgamemnon would not have promised cities that belonged neither to himself nor to his brother. And the poet makes it clear that men fromPherae did accompanyMenelaus on the expedition; and in theLaconianCatalogue he includesOitylus, which is situated on theMessenian Gulf.Messene comes afterTriphylia; and there is a cape which is common to both; and after this cape comeCyparissia andCoryphasium. AboveCoryphasium and the sea, at a distance of seven stadia, lies a mountain,Aegaleum.
§ 8.4.2 Now the ancientMessenianPylus was a city at the foot ofAegaleum; but after this city was torn down some of its inhabitants took up their abode on CapeCoryphasium; and when theAthenians under the leadership ofEurymedon andStratocles were sailing on the second expedition toSicily, they reconstructed the city as a fortress against theLacedemonians. Here, too, is theMessenianCyparissia, and the island calledProte, and the island calledSphagia that lies off the coast nearPylus (the same is also calledSphacteria), on which theLacedemonians lost by capture three hundred of their own men, who were besieged and forced to surrender by theAthenians. Opposite this seacoast of theCyparissians, out in the high sea, lie two islands calledStrophades; and they are distant, I should say, about four hundred stadia from the mainland, in the Libyan and Southern Sea.Thucydides says that thisPylus was the naval station of theMessenians. It is four hundred stadia distant fromSparta.
§ 8.4.3 Next comesMethone. This, they say, is what the poet callsPedasus, one of the seven cities whichAgamemnon promised toAchilles. It was here thatAgrippa, during the war ofActium, after he had taken the place by an attack from the sea, put to death Bogus, the king of theMaurusians, who belonged to the faction ofAntony.
§ 8.4.4 Adjacent toMethone isAcritas, which is the beginning of theMessenian Gulf. But this is also called theAsinaean Gulf, fromAsine, which is the first town on the gulf and bears the same name as theHermionic town.Asine, then, is the beginning of the gulf on the west, while the beginning on the east is formed by a place calledThyrides, which borders on that part of theLaconia of today which is nearCynaethius andTaenarum. BetweenAsine andThyrides, beginning atThyrides, one comes toOitylus (by some calledBaetylus); then toLeuctrum, a colony of theLeuctri inBoeotia; then toCardamyle, which is situated on a rock fortified by nature; then toPharae, which borders onThuria andGerenia, the place from whichNestor got his epithet "Gerenian," it is said, because his life was saved there, as I have said before. InGerenia is to be seen a sanctuary ofTriccaeanAsclepius, a reproduction of the one in theThessalianTricca. It is said thatPelops, after he had given his sisterNiobe in marriage toAmphion, foundedLeuctrum, Charadra, andThalami (now called Boeoti), bringing with him certain colonists fromBoeotia. NearPharae is the mouth of theNedon River; it flows throughLaconia and is a different river from theNeda. It has a notable sanctuary ofAthenaNedusia. InPoeaessa, also, there is a sanctuary ofAthenaNedusia, named after some place called Nedon, from whichTeleclus is said to have colonizedPoeaessa and Echeiae and Tragium.
§ 8.4.5 Of the seven cities whichAgamemnon tendered toAchilles, I have already spoken aboutCardamyle andPharae andPedasus. As forEnope, some say that it isPellana, others that it is some place nearCardamyle, and others that it isGerenia. As forHire, it is pointed out near the mountain [Eira] that is nearMegalopolis inArcadia, on the road that leads toAndania, the city which, as I have said, the poet calledOichalia; but others say that what is nowMesola, which extends to the gulf betweenTaygetus andMessenia, is calledHire. AndAepeia is now calledThuria, which, as I have said, borders onPharae; it is situated on a lofty hill, and hence the name. FromThuria is derived the name of the Thuriates Gulf, on which there was but one city,Rhium by name, oppositeTaenarum. And as forAntheia, some say that it isThuria itself, and thatAepeia isMethone; but others say that of all theMessenian cities the epithet "deep-meadowed" was most appropriately applied to the interveningAsine, in whose territory on the sea is a city calledCorone; moreover, according to some writers, it wasCorone that the poet calledPedasus. "And all are close to the salt sea,"Cardamyle on it,Pharae only five stadia distant (with an anchoring place in summer), while the others are at varying distances from the sea.
§ 8.4.6 It is nearCorone, at about the center of the gulf, that the riverPamisus empties. The river has on its rightCorone and the cities that come in order after it (of these latter the farthermost towards the west arePylus andCyparissia, and between these isErana, which some have wrongly thought to be theArene of earlier time), and it hasThuria andPharae on its left. It is the largest of the rivers inside the isthmus, although it is no more than a hundred stadia in length from its sources, from which it flows with an abundance of water through theMessenian plain, that is, throughMacaria, as it is called. The river stands at a distance of fifty stadia from the present city of theMessenians. There is also anotherPamisus, a small torrential stream, which flows near theLaconianLeuctrum; and it was overLeuctrum that theMessenians got into a dispute with theLacedemonians in the time ofPhilip. Of thePamisus which some called theAmathus I have already spoken.
§ 8.4.7 According toEphorus: WhenCresphontes tookMessenia, he divided it into five cities; and so, sinceStenyclarus was situated in the center of this country, he designated it as a royal residence for himself, while as for the others —Pylus,Rhium,Mesola, andHyameitis — he sent kings to them, after conferring on all theMessenians equal rights with theDorians; but since this irritated theDorians, he changed his mind, gave sanction toStenyclarus alone as a city, and also gathered into it all theDorians.
§ 8.4.8 The city of theMessenians is similar toCorinth; for above either city lies a high and precipitous mountain that is enclosed by a common wall, so that it is used as an acropolis, the one mountain being calledIthome and the otherAcrocorinthus. And soDemetrius ofPharos seems to have spoken aptly toPhilip the son ofDemetrius when he advised him to lay hold of both these cities if he coveted thePeloponnesus, "for if you hold both horns," he said, "you will hold down thecow," meaning by "horns"Ithome andAcrocorinthus, and by "cow" thePeloponnesus. And indeed it is because of their advantageous position that these cities have been objects of contention.Corinth was destroyed and rebuilt again by the Romans; andMessene was destroyed by theLacedemonians but restored by theThebans and afterward byPhilip the son ofAmyntas. The citadels, however, remained uninhabited.
§ 8.4.9 Thesanctuary ofArtemis atLimnae, at which theMessenians are reputed to have outraged the maidens who had come to the sacrifice, is on the boundaries betweenLaconia andMessenia, where both peoples held assemblies and offered sacrifice in common; and they say that it was after the outraging of the maidens, when theMessenians refused to give satisfaction for the act, that the war took place. And it is after thisLimnae, also, that theLimnaion, thesanctuary ofArtemis inSparta, has been named.
§ 8.4.10 Often, however, they went to war on account of the revolts of theMessenians.Tyrtaeus says in his poems that the first conquest ofMessenia took place in the time of his fathers' fathers; the second, at the time when theMessenians chose theArgives,Eleians,Pisatans, andArcadians as allies and revolted — theArcadians furnishingAristocrates the king ofOrchomenus as general and thePisatae furnishingPantaleon the son ofOmphalion; at this time, he says, he himself was theLacedemonian general in the war, for in his elegy entitledEunomia he says that he came from there: "For the son ofCronus, spouse ofHera of the beautiful crown,Zeus himself, hath given this city to theHeracleidae, in company with whom I left windyErineus, and came to the broad island ofPelops." Therefore either these verses of the elegy must be denied authority or we must discreditPhilochorus, who says thatTyrtaeus was anAthenian from the deme ofAphidnae, and alsoCallisthenes and several other writers, who say that he came fromAthens when theLacedemonians asked for him in accordance with an oracle which bade them to get a commander from theAthenians. So the second war was in the time ofTyrtaeus; but also a third and fourth war took place, they say, in which theMessenians were defeated. The voyage round the coast ofMessenia, following the sinuosities of the gulfs, is, all told, about eight hundred stadia in length.
§ 8.4.11 However, I am overstepping the bounds of moderation in recounting the numerous stories told about a country the most of which is now deserted; in fact,Laconia too is now short of population as compared with its large population in olden times, for outside ofSparta the remaining towns are only about thirty in number, whereas in olden times it was called, they say, "country of the hundred cities"; and it was on this account, they say, that they held annual festivals in which one hundredcattle were sacrificed.
§ 8.5.1 Lakonia Be this as it may, after the Messenian Gulf comes the Laconian Gulf, lying betweenTaenarum andMaleae, which bends slightly from the south towards the east; andThyrides, a precipitous rock exposed to the currents of the sea, is in the Messenian Gulf at a distance of one hundred and thirty stadia fromTaenarum. AboveThyrides liesTaygetus; it is a lofty and steep mountain, only a short distance from the sea, and it connects in its northerly parts with the foothills of theArcadian mountains in such a way that a glen is left in between, whereMessenia borders onLaconia. BelowTaygetus, in the interior, liesSparta, and alsoAmyclae, where is the sanctuary ofApollo, andPharis. Now the site ofSparta is in a rather hollow district, although it includes mountains within its limits; yet no part of it is marshy, though in olden times the suburban part was marshy, and this part they called Limnae; and the sanctuary ofDionysus inLimnae stood on wet ground, though now its foundations rest on dry ground. In the bend of the seaboard one comes, first, to a headland that projects into the sea,Taenarum, with itssanctuary ofPoseidon situated in a grove; and secondly, near by, to the cavern through which, according to the myth writers,Cerberus was brought up fromHades byHeracles. From here the passage towards the south across the sea toPhycus, a cape inCyrenaea, is three thousand stadia; and the passage towards the west toPachynus, the promontory ofSicily, is four thousand six hundred, though some say four thousand; and towards the east toMaleae, following the sinuosities of the gulfs, six hundred and seventy; and toOnugnathus, a low-lying peninsula somewhat this side ofMaleae, five hundred and twenty; offOnugnathus and opposite it, at a distance of forty stadia, liesCythera, an island with a good harbor, containing a city of the same name, whichEurycles, the ruler of theLacedemonians in our times, seized as his private property; and round it lie several small islands, some near it and others slightly farther away; and toCorycus, a cape inCrete, the shortest voyage is seven hundred stadia.
§ 8.5.2 AfterTaenarum, on the voyage toOnugnathus andMaleae, one comes to the cityPsamathus; then toAsine, and toGythium, the seaport ofSparta, situated at a distance of two hundred and forty stadia fromSparta. The roadstead of the seaport was dug by the hand of man, so it is said. Then one comes to theEurotas, which empties betweenGythium andAcraea. Now for a time the voyage is along the shore, for about two hundred and forty stadia; then comes a marshy district situated above the gulf, and also a village calledHelus. In earlier timesHelus was a city, just asHomer says: "And they that heldAmyclae, andHelus, a city by the sea." It is said to have been founded byHelius, a son ofPerseus. And one comes also to a plain calledLeuce; then to a cityCyparissia, which is situated on a peninsula and has a harbor; then toOnugnathus, which has a harbor; then to the cityBoea; and then toMaleae. And the distance fromOnugnathus toMaleae is one hundred and fifty stadia; and there is also a cityAsopus inLaconia.
§ 8.5.3 They say that one of the places mentioned inHomer'sCatalogue,Messe, is nowhere to be seen; and thatMessoa was not a part of the country but ofSparta, as was the case withLimnaion, . . . But some take "Messe" as an apocopated form of "Messene," for, as I have said,Messene too was a part ofLaconia. As examples of apocope from the poet himself, writers cite "kri," "do," and "maps," and also the passage "the heroesAutomedon andAlcimus," for "Alcimedon"; then fromHesiod, who uses "bri" for "brithu" or "briaron"; andSophocles andIon, "rha" for "rhadion"; andEpicharmus, "li" for "lian," and "Syraco" for "Syracuse"; and inEmpedocles, "ops" for "opsis": "the 'ops' of both becomes one;" and inAntimachus, "the sacred 'ops' of theEleusinianDemeter," and "alphi" for "alphiton"; andEuphorion even uses "hel" for "helos"; and inPhiletas, "eri" for "erion": "maidservants bring white 'eri' and put it in baskets;" andAratus says "peda" for "pedalia": "the 'peda' towards the wind"; andSimmias, "Dodo" for "Dodona." As for the rest of the places listed by the poet, some have been destroyed; of others traces are still left; and of others the names have been changed, for example,Augeiae toAegaeae; for theAugeiae inLocris no longer exists at all. As forLas, the story goes, theDioscuri once captured it by siege, and it was from this fact that they got the appellation "Lapersae." AndSophocles says, "by the twoLapersae, I swear, byEurotas third, by the gods inArgos and aboutSparta."
§ 8.5.4 According toEphorus:Eurysthenes andProcles, theHeracleidae, took possession ofLaconia, divided the country into six parts, and founded cities; now one of the divisions,Amyclae, they selected and gave to the man who had betrayedLaconia to them and who had persuaded the ruler who was in possession of it to accept their terms and emigrate with theAchaeans toIonia;Sparta they designated as a royal residence for themselves; to the other divisions they sent kings, and because of the sparsity of the population gave them permission to receive as fellow inhabitants any strangers who wished the privilege; and they usedLas as a naval station because of its good harbor, andAegys as a base of operations against their enemies (for its territory bordered on those of the surrounding peoples) andPharis as a treasury, because it afforded security against outsiders; . . . but though the neighboring peoples, one and all, were subject to theSpartiatae, still they had equal rights, sharing both in the rights of citizenship and in the offices of state, and they were calledHelots; butAgis, the son ofEurysthenes, deprived them of the equality of rights and ordered them to pay tribute toSparta; now all obeyed except theHeleians, the occupants ofHelus, who, because they revolted, were forcibly reduced in a war, and were condemned to slavery, with the express reservation that no slaveholder should be permitted either to set them free or to sell them outside the borders of the country; and this war was called the War against theHelots. One may almost say that it wasAgis and his associates who introduced the whole system ofHelot-slavery that persisted until the supremacy of the Romans; for theLacedemonians held theHelots as state slaves in a way, having assigned to them certain settlements to live in and special services to perform.
§ 8.5.5 Concerning the government of theLaconians and the changes that took place among them, one might omit most things as well known, but there are certain things which it is perhaps worthwhile to mention. For instance, they say that theAchaeans ofPhthiotis came down withPelops into thePeloponnesus, took up their abode inLaconia, and so far excelled in bravery that thePeloponnesus, which now for many ages had been calledArgos, came to be calledAchaeanArgos, and the name was applied not only in a general way to thePeloponnesus, but also in a specific way toLaconia; at any rate, the words of the poet, "Where wasMenelaus?" "or was he not inAchaeanArgos?" are interpreted by some thus: "or was he not inLaconia?" And at the time of the return of theHeracleidae, whenPhilonomus betrayed the country to theDorians, theAchaeans emigrated fromLaconia to the country of theIonians, the country that still today is calledAchaea. But I shall speak of them in my description ofAchaea. Now the new possessors ofLaconia restrained themselves at first, but after they turned over the government toLycurgus they so far surpassed the rest that they alone of the Greeks ruled over both land and sea, and they continued ruling the Greeks until they were deprived of their hegemony, first by theThebans, and immediately after them by theMacedonians. However, they did not wholly yield even to theMacedonians, but, preserving their autonomy, always kept up a struggle for the primacy both with the rest of the Greeks and with the kings of theMacedonians. And when theMacedonians had been overthrown by the Romans, theLacedemonians committed some slight offences against the praetors who were sent by the Romans, because at that time they were under the rule of tyrants and had a wretched government; but when they had recovered themselves, they were held in particular honor, and remained free, contributing toRome nothing else but friendly services. But recentlyEurycles has stirred up trouble among them, having apparently abused the friendship ofCaesar unduly in order to maintain his authority over his subjects; but the trouble quickly came to an end,Eurycles retiring to his fate, and his son being averse to any friendship of this kind. And it also came to pass that theEleuthero-Lacones got a kind of republican constitution, since thePerioeci and also theHelots, at the time whenSparta was under the rule of tyrants, were the first to attach themselves to the Romans. NowHellanicus says thatEurysthenes andProcles drew up the constitution; butEphorus censuresHellanicus, saying that he has nowhere mentionedLycurgus and that he ascribes the work ofLycurgus to persons who had nothing to do with it. At any rate,Ephorus continues, it is toLycurgus alone that a sanctuary has been erected and that annual sacrifices are offered, whereasEurysthenes andProcles, although they were the founders, have not even been accorded the honor of having their respective descendants called Eurysthenidae andProcleidae; instead, the respective descendants are calledAgidae, afterAgis the son ofEurysthenes, andEurypontidae, afterEurypon the son ofProcles; forAgis andEurypon reigned in an honorable way, whereasEurysthenes andProcles welcomed foreigners and through these maintained their overlordship; and hence they were not even honored with the title of "archegetae," an honor which is always paid to founders; and further,Pausanias, after he was banished because of the hatred of theEurypontidae, the other royal house, and when he was in exile, prepared a discourse on the laws ofLycurgus, who belonged to the house that banished him, in which he also tells the oracles that were given out toLycurgus concerning most of the laws.
§ 8.5.6 Concerning the nature of the regions, bothLaconia andMessenia, one should accept whatEuripides says in the following passages: He says thatLaconia has "much arable land but is not easy to cultivate, for it is hollow, surrounded by mountains, rugged, and difficult for enemies to invade;" and thatMessenia is "a land of fair fruitage and watered by innumerable streams, abounding in pasturage forcattle andsheep, being neither very wintry in the blasts of winter nor yet made too hot by the chariot ofHelios;" and a little below, in speaking of the lots which theHeracleidae cast for the country, he says that the first lot conferred "lordships over the land ofLaconia, a poor country," and the second overMessenia, "whose fertility is greater than words can express;" andTyrtaeus speaks of it in the same manner. But one should not admit that the boundary betweenLaconia andMessenia is formed, asEuripides says, "by thePamisus, which rushes into the sea," for it flows through the middle ofMessenia, nowhere touching the presentLaconia. Neither is he right when he says that to marinersMessenia is far away, forMessenia likeLaconia lies on the sea; and he does not give the right boundary ofElis either, "and far away, after one crosses the river, liesElis, the neighbor ofZeus;" for if, on the one hand, he means the presentEleian country, which borders onMessenia, thePamisus does not touch this country, any more than it doesLaconia, for, as I have said, it flows through the middle ofMessenia; or if, on the other hand, he means the old CoeleElis, he deviates much further from the truth; for after one crosses thePamisus there is still a large part ofMessenia to traverse, and then the whole of the territories of theLepreatae and theMacistii, which they used to callTriphylia; and then comePisatis andOlympia, and then, three hundred stadia farther on,Elis.
§ 8.5.7 Since some critics writeLacedemon "Ketoessan" and others "Kaietaessan," the question is asked, how should we interpret "Ketoessa," whether as derived from "Kete," or as meaning "large," which seems to be more plausible. And as for "Kaietaessan," some interpret it as meaning "Kalaminthode," whereas others say that the clefts caused by earthquakes are called "Kaietoi," and that from "Kaietoi" is derived "Kaietas," the word among theLacedemonians for their "prison," which is a sort of cavern. But some prefer to call such cavernous places "Kooi," and whence, they add, comes the expression "'oreskoioi' monsters."Laconia is subject to earthquakes, and in fact some writers record that certain peaks ofTaygetus have been broken away. And there are quarries of verycostly marble — the old quarries ofTaenarian marble onTaenarum; and recently some men have opened a large quarry inTaygetus, being supported in their undertaking by the extravagance of the Romans.
§ 8.5.8 Homer makes it clear that both the country and the city are called by the same name,Lacedemon (and when I say "country" I includeMessenia withLaconia). For in speaking of the bows, when he says, "beautiful gifts which a friend had given him when he met him inLacedemon, evenIphitus the son ofEurytus," and then adds, "these twain met one another inMessene in the home ofOrtilochus,"Homer means the country of whichMessenia was a part. Accordingly it made no difference to him whether he said "a friend had given him when he met him inLacedemon" or "these twain met inMessene." For, thatPherae is the home ofOrtilochus, is clear from this passage: "and they" (Telemachus andPeisistratus) "went toPherae, the home ofDiocles, son ofOrtilochus;" andPherae is inMessenia. But whenHomer says that, afterTelemachus and his companions set out fromPherae, they shook the yoke all day long, and then adds, "and the sun set, and they came to HollowLacedemon 'Ketoessan,' and then drove to the palace ofMenelaus," we must interpret him as meaning the city; otherwise it will be obvious that the poet speaks of their arrival atLacedemon fromLacedemon! And, besides, it is not probable that the residence ofMenelaus was not atSparta, nor yet, if it were not there, thatTelemachus would say, "for I would go both toSparta and toPylus." But the fact thatHomer uses the epithets of the country is in disagreement with this view unless, indeed, one is willing to attribute this to poetic license — as one should do, for it were better forMessene to be included withLaconia or with thePylus that was subject toNestor, and not to be set off by itself in theCatalogue as not even having a part in the expedition.
§ 8.6.1 Argolid AfterMaleae follows theArgolic Gulf, and then theHermionic Gulf; the former stretches as far asScyllaion, facing approximately eastward and towards theCyclades, while the latter is more to the east than the former and extends as far asAigina andEpidauria. Now the first places on theArgolic Gulf are occupied byLaconians, and the rest by theArgives. Among the places belonging to theLaconians isDelium, which is sacred toApollo and bears the same name as the place inBoeotia; and alsoMinoa, a stronghold, which has the same name as the place inMegaris; andEpidaurus Limera, asArtemidorus says. ButApollodorus observes that thisEpidaurus Limera is nearCythera, and that, because it has a good harbor, it was called "Limenera," which was abbreviated and contracted to "Limera," so that its name has been changed. Immediately after sailing fromMaleae theLaconian coast is rugged for a considerable distance, but still it affords anchoring places and harbors. The rest of the coast is well provided with harbors; and off the coast lie many small islands, but they are not worth mentioning.
§ 8.6.2 But to theArgives belongsPrasiae, and alsoTemenium, whereTemenus was buried, and, still beforeTemenium, the district through which flows the riverLerne, as it is called, bearing the same name as the marsh in which is laid the scene of the myth of theHydra.Temenium lies above the sea at a distance of twenty-six stadia fromArgos; and fromArgos toHeraion the distance is forty stadia, and thence toMycenae ten. AfterTemenium comesNauplia, the naval station of theArgives: and the name is derived from the fact that the place is accessible to ships. And it is on the basis of this name, it is said, that the myth ofNauplius and his sons has been fabricated by the more recent writers of myth, forHomer would not have failed to mention these, ifPalamedes had displayed such wisdom and sagacity, and if he was unjustly and treacherously murdered, and ifNauplius wrought destruction to so many men at CapeCaphereus. But in addition to its fabulous character the genealogy ofNauplius is also wholly incorrect in respect to the times involved; for, granting that he was the son ofPoseidon, how could a man who was still alive at the time of theTrojan War have been the son ofAmymone? Next afterNauplia one comes to the caverns and the labyrinths built in them, which are called Cyclopeian.
§ 8.6.3 Then come other places, and next after them theHermionic Gulf; for, sinceHomer assigns this gulf also toArgeia, it is clear that I too should not overlook this section of the circuit. The gulf begins at the town ofAsine. Then comeHermione andTroezen; and, as one sails along the coast, one comes also to the island ofCalauria, which has a circuit of one hundred and thirty stadia and is separated from the mainland by a strait four stadia wide.
§ 8.6.4 Then comes theSaronic Gulf; but some call it a sea and others a strait; and because of this it is also called theSaronic Sea.Saronic Gulf is the name given to the whole of the strait, stretching from theHermionic Sea and from the sea that is at theIsthmus, that connects with both theMyrtoan andCretan Seas. To theSaronic Gulf belong bothEpidaurus and the island ofAigina that lies offEpidaurus; thenCenchreae, the easterly naval station of theCorinthians; then, after sailing forty-five stadia, one comes toSchoenus, a harbor. FromMaleae thither the total distance is about eighteen hundred stadia. NearSchoenus is the "Diolcus," the narrowest part of theIsthmus, where is the sanctuary of theIsthmianPoseidon. However, let us for the present postpone the discussion of these places, for they lie outside ofArgeia, and let us resume again our description of those inArgeia.
§ 8.6.5 And in the first place let me mention in how many ways the term "Argos" is used by the poet, not only by itself but also with epithets, when he callsArgos "Achaean," or "Iasian," or "hippian," or "Pelasgian," or "horse-pasturing." For, in the first place, the city is calledArgos: "Argos andSparta," "and those who heldArgos andTiryns." And, secondly, thePeloponnesus: "in our home inArgos," for the city ofArgos was not his home. And, thirdly, Greece as a whole; at any rate, he calls all GreeksArgives, just as he calls themDanaans andAchaeans. However, he differentiates identical names by epithets, callingThessaly "PelasgianArgos": "Now all, moreover, who dwelt inPelasgianArgos;" and calling thePeloponnesus "AchaeanArgos." "And if we should come toAchaeanArgos," "Or was he not inAchaeanArgos?" And here he signifies that under a different designation thePeloponnesians were also calledAchaeans in a special sense. And he calls thePeloponnesus "IasianArgos": "If all theAchaeans throughoutIasianArgos could see"Penelope, she would have still more wooers; for it is not probable that he meant the Greeks from all Greece, but only those that were near. But the epithets "horse-pasturing" and "hippian" he uses in a general sense.
§ 8.6.6 But critics are in dispute in regard to the terms "Hellas," "Hellenes," and "Panhellenes." ForThucydides says that the poet nowhere speaks of barbarians, "because the Hellenes had not as yet been designated by a common distinctive name opposed to that of the barbarians." AndApollodorus says that only the Greeks inThessaly were called Hellenes: "and were calledMyrmidons and Hellenes." He says, however, thatHesiod andArchilochus already knew that all the Greeks were called, not only Hellenes, but alsoPanhellenes, forHesiod, in speaking of the daughters ofProteus, says that thePanhellenes wooed them, andArchilochus says that "the woes of thePanhellenes centered uponThasos." But others oppose this view, saying that the poet also speaks of barbarians, since he speaks of theCarians as men of barbarous speech, and of all the Greeks as Hellenes, "the man whose fame is wide throughoutHellas and mid-Argos," and again, "If thou wishest to journey throughoutHellas and mid-Argos."
§ 8.6.7 Now the city of theArgives is for the most part situated in a plain, but it has for a citadel the place calledLarisa, a hill that is fairly well fortified and contains a sanctuary ofZeus. And near the city flows theInachus, a torrential river that has its sources inLyrceius, the mountain that is nearCynuria inArcadia. But concerning the sources of which mythology tells us, they are fabrications of poets, as I have already said. And "waterlessArgos" is also a fabrication, ("but the gods madeArgos well watered"), since the country lies in a hollow, and is traversed by rivers, and contains marshes and lakes, and since the city is well supplied with waters of many wells whose water level reaches the surface. So critics find the cause of the mistake in this verse: "And in utter shame would I return to πολυδίψιονArgos." πολυδίψιον either is used for πολυπόθητον, i.e., "much longed for." or, omitting the δ, for πολυΐψιον, i.e., "very destructive." in the sense of πολύφθορον, as in the phrase ofSophocles, "and the πολύφθορον home of thePelopidae there;" for the words προϊάψαι and ἰάψαι, and ἴψασθαι signify a kind of destruction or affliction: "Now he is merely making trial, but soon he will afflict the sons of theAchaeans;" "mar her fair flesh; " "untimely sent toHades." And besides,Homer does not mean the city ofArgos (for it was not thither thatAgamemnon was about to return), but thePeloponnesus, which certainly is not a "thirsty" land either. Moreover some critics, retaining the δ, interpret the word by the figure hyperbaton and as a case of synaloepha with the connective δέ, so that the verse would read thus: "And in utter shame would I return πολὺ δ᾽ ἴψιον Ἄργος," that is to say, "would I return πολυίψιον Ἄργοσδε," where Ἄργοσδε stands for εἰς Ἄργος.
§ 8.6.8 Now one of the rivers that flows throughArgeia is theInachus, but there is another river inArgeia, theErasinus. The latter has its source inStymphalus inArcadia, that is, in the lake there which is called theStymphalian Lake, which mythology makes the home of the birds that were driven out by the arrows and drums ofHeracles; and the birds themselves are called Stymphalides. And they say that theErasinus sinks beneath the ground and then issues forth inArgeia and waters the plain. TheErasinus is also called the Arsinus. And another river of the same name flows fromArcadia to the coast nearBura; and there is another Erasinus in the territory ofEretria, and still another inAttica nearBrauron. And a springAmymone is also pointed out nearLerne. And LakeLerne, the scene of the story of theHydra, lies inArgeia and theMycenaean territory; and on account of the cleansings that take place in it there arose a proverb, "ALerne of ills." Now writers agree that the county has plenty of water, and that, although the city itself lies in a waterless district, it has an abundance of wells. These wells they ascribe to the daughters ofDanaus, believing that they discovered them; and hence the utterance of this verse, "The daughters ofDanaus renderedArgos, which was waterless,Argos the well watered;" but they add that four of the wells not only were designated as sacred but are especially revered, thus introducing the false notion that there is a lack of water where there is an abundance of it.
§ 8.6.9 The acropolis of theArgives is said to have been founded byDanaus, who is reputed to have surpassed so much those who reigned in this region before him that, according toEuripides, "throughout Greece he laid down a law that all people hitherto namedPelasgians should be calledDanaans." Moreover, his tomb is in the center of themarketplace of theArgives; and it is called Plinthos [Palinthus]. And I think that it was the fame of this city that prepared the way, not only for thePelasgians and theDanaans, as well as theArgives, to be named after it, but also for the rest of the Greeks; and so, too, the more recent writers speak of "Iasidae," "IasianArgos," "Apia," and "Apidones"; butHomer does not mention the "Apidones," though he uses the word "apia," rather of a "distant" land. To prove that byArgos the poet means thePeloponnesus, we can add the following examples: "ArgiveHelen," and "There is a cityEphyra in the inmost part ofArgos," and "midArgos," and "and that over many islands and allArgos he should be lord." And in the more recent writers the plain, too, is calledArgos, but not once inHomer. Yet they think that this is more especially aMacedonian orThessalian usage.
§ 8.6.10 After the descendants ofDanaus succeeded to the reign inArgos, and the Amythaonides, who were emigrants fromPisatis andTriphylia, became associated with these, one should not be surprised if, being kindred, they at first so divided the country into two kingdoms that the two cities in them which held the hegemony were designated as the capitals, though situated near one another, at a distance of less than fifty stadia, I meanArgos andMycenae, and that theHeraion nearMycenae was a sanctuary common to both. In this sanctuary are the images made byPolycleitus, in execution the most beautiful in the world, but in costliness and size inferior to those byPheidias. Now at the outsetArgos was the more powerful, but laterMycenae waxed more powerful on account of the removal thereto of thePelopidae; for, when everything fell to the sons ofAtreus,Agamemnon, being the elder, assumed the supreme power, and by a combination of good fortune and valor acquired much of the country in addition to the possessions he already had; and indeed he also addedLaconia to the territory ofMycenae. NowMenelaus came into possession ofLaconia, butAgamemnon receivedMycenae and the regions as far asCorinth andSikyon and the country which at that time was called the country of theIonians andAegialians but later the country of theAchaeans. But after theTrojan times, when the empire of Agememnon had been broken up, it came to pass thatMycenae was reduced, and particularly after the return of theHeracleidae; for when these had taken possession of thePeloponnesus they expelled its former masters, so that those who heldArgos also heldMycenae as a component part of one whole. But in later timesMycenae was razed to the ground by theArgives, so that today not even a trace of the city of theMycenaeans is to be found. And sinceMycenae has suffered such a fate, one should not be surprised if also some of the cities which are catalogued as subject toArgos have now disappeared. Now theCatalogue contains the following: "And those who heldArgos, andTiryns of the great walls, andHermione andAsine that occupy a deep gulf, andTroezen andEiones and vine-cladEpidaurus, and the youths of the Achaeans who heldAigina andMases." But of the cities just named I have already discussedArgos, and now I must discuss the others.
§ 8.6.11 Now it seems thatTiryns was used as a base of operations byProetus, and was walled by him through the aid of theCyclopes, who were seven in number, and were called "Bellyhands" because they got their food from their handicraft, and they came by invitation fromLycia. And perhaps the caverns nearNauplia and the works therein are named after them. The acropolis, Licymna, is named afterLicymnius, and it is about twelve stadia distant fromNauplia; but it is deserted, and so is the neighboringMidea, which is different from theBoeotianMideia; for the former is Midea, like Pronia, while the latter is Midea, like Tegea. And bordering onMidea isProsymna, . . . this having asanctuary of Hera. But theArgives laid waste to most of the cities because of their disobedience; and of the inhabitants those fromTiryns migrated toEpidaurus, and those from . . . toHalieis, as it is called; but those fromAsine (this is a village inArgeia nearNauplia) were transferred by theLacedemonians toMessenia, where is a town that bears the same name as theArgolicAsine; for theLacedemonians, saysTheopompos, took possession of much territory that belonged to other peoples and settled there all who fled to them and were taken in. And the inhabitants ofNauplia also withdrew toMessenia.
§ 8.6.12 Hermione is one of the important cities; and its seaboard is held by theHalieis, as they are called, men who busy themselves on the sea. And it is commonly reported that the descent toHades in the country of theHermionians is a short cut; and this is why they do not put passage money in the mouths of their dead.
§ 8.6.13 It is said thatAsine too was a habitation of theDryopians — whether, being inhabitants of the regions of theSpercheius, they were settled here by theArcadianDryops, asAristotle has said, or whether they were driven byHeracles out of the part ofDoris that is nearParnassus. As for theScyllaion inHermione, they say that it was named afterScylla, the daughter ofNisus, who, they say, out of love forMinos betrayedNisaea to him and was drowned in the sea by him, and was here cast ashore by the waves and buried.Eiones was a village, which was depopulated by theMycenaeans and made into a naval station, but later it disappeared from sight and now is not even a naval station.
§ 8.6.14 Troezen is sacred toPoseidon, after whom it was once calledPoseidonia. It is situated fifteen stadia above the sea, and it too is an important city. Off its harbor,Pogon by name, liesCalauria, an isle with a circuit of about one hundred and thirty stadia. Here was an asylum sacred toPoseidon; and they say that this god made an exchange withLeto, giving herDelos forCalauria, and also withApollo, giving himPytho forTaenarum. AndEphorus goes on to tell the oracle: "For thee it is the same thing to possessDelos orCalauria, most holyPytho or windyTaenarum." And there was also a kind ofAmphictyonic League connected with this sanctuary, a league of seven cities which shared in the sacrifice; they wereHermion,Epidaurus,Aigina,Athens,Prasieis,Nauplieis, andOrchomenusMinyeius; however, theArgives paid dues for theNauplians, and theLacedemonians for thePrasians. The worship of this god was so prevalent among the Greeks that even theMacedonians, whose power already extended as far as the sanctuary, in a way preserved its inviolability, and were afraid to drag away the suppliants who fled for refuge toCalauria; indeedArchias, with soldiers, did not venture to do violence even toDemosthenes, although he had been ordered byAntipater to bring him alive, both him and all the other orators he could find that were under similar charges, but tried to persuade him; he could not persuade him, however, andDemosthenes forestalled him by suiciding with poison. NowTroezen andPittheus, the sons ofPelops, came originally fromPisatis; and the former left behind him the city which was named after him, and the latter succeeded him and reigned as king. ButAnthes, who previously had possession of the place, set sail and foundedHalicarnassus; but concerning this I shall speak in my description ofCaria andTroy.
§ 8.6.15 Epidaurus used to be called Epicarus, forAristotle says thatCarians took possession of it, as also ofHermione, but that after the return of theHeracleidae theIonians who had accompanied theHeracleidae from theAtticTetrapolis toArgos took up their abode with theseCarians.Epidaurus, too, is an important city, and particularly because of the fame ofAsclepius, who is believed to cure diseases of every kind and always has hissanctuary full of the sick, and also of the votive tablets on which the treatments are recorded, just as atCos andTricce. The city lies in the recess of theSaronic Gulf, has a circular coast of fifteen stadia, and faces the summer risings of the sun. It is enclosed by high mountains which reach as far as the sea, so that on all sides it is naturally fitted for a stronghold. BetweenTroezen andEpidaurus there was a stronghold calledMethana, and also a peninsula of the same name. In some copies ofThucydides the name is spelledMethone," the same as theMacedonian city in whichPhilip, in the siege, had his eye knocked out. And it is on this account, in the opinion ofDemetrius ofScepsis, that some writers, being deceived, suppose that it was theMethone in the territory ofTroezen against which the men sent byAgamemnon to collect sailors are said to have uttered the imprecation that its citizens might never cease from their wall-building, since, in his opinion, it was not these citizens that refused, but those of theMacedonian city, asTheopompus says; and it is not likely, he adds, that these citizens who were near toAgamemnon disobeyed him.
§ 8.6.16 Aigina is the name of a place inEpidauria; and it is also the name of an island lying off this part of the mainland — theAigina of which the poet means to speak in the verses just cited; and it is on this account that some write "the islandAigina" instead of "who heldAigina," thus distinguishing between places of the same name. Now what need have I to say that the island is one of the most famous? for it is said that bothAeacus and his subjects were from there. And this is the island that was once actually mistress of the sea and disputed with theAthenians for the prize of valor in the sea fight atSalamis at the time of thePersian War. The island is said to be one hundred and eighty stadia in circuit; and it has a city of the same name that faces southwest; and it is surrounded byAttica,Megaris, and thePeloponnesus as far isEpidaurus, being distant about one hundred stadia from each; and its eastern and southern sides are washed by theMyrtoan andCretan Seas; and around it lie small islands, many of them near the mainland, thoughBelbina extends to the high sea. The country ofAigina is fertile at a depth below the surface, but rocky on the surface, and particularly the level part; and therefore the whole country is bare, although it is fairly productive of barley. It is said that theAiginetans were calledMyrmidons, — not as the myth has it, because, when a great famine occurred, the ants became human beings in answer to a prayer ofAeacus, but because they excavated the earth after the manner of ants and spread the soil over the rocks, so as to have ground to till, and because they lived in the dugouts, refraining from the use of soil for bricks. Long agoAigina was calledOinone, the same name as that of two demes inAttica, one nearEleutherae, "to inhabit the plains that border onOinone andEleutherae;" and another, one of the demes of theMarathonianTetrapolis, to which is applied the proverb, "ToOinone — the torrent."Aigina was colonized successively by theArgives, theCretans, theEpidaurians, and theDorians; but later theAthenians divided it by lot among settlers of their own; [...] settling with theMendaians atDamastion in Illyria around the silver mines, which I discussed in the Illyrian section. TheLacedemonians took the island away from theAthenians and gave it back to its ancient settlers. And colonists were sent forth by theAiginetans both toCydonia inCrete and to the country of theOmbrici.Ephorus says that silver was first coined inAigina, byPheidon; for the island, he adds, became a merchant center, since, on account of the poverty of the soil, the people employed themselves at sea as merchants, and hence, he adds, petty wares were called "Aiginetan merchandise."
§ 8.6.17 The poet mentions some places in the order in which they are actually situated; "and these dwelt inHyria andAulis," "and those who heldArgos andTiryns,Hermione andAsine,Troezen andEiones;" but at other times not in their actual order: "Schoenus andScolus,Thespeia andGraea;" and he mentions the places on the mainland at the same time with the islands: "those who heldIthaca and dwelt inCrocyleia," forCrocyleia is in the country of theAcarnanians. And so, also, he here connectsMases withAigina, although it is inArgolis on the mainland.Homer does not nameThyreae, although the others often speak of it; and it was concerningThyreae that a contest arose between theArgives and theLacedemonians, three hundred against three hundred; but theLacedemonians under the generalship ofOthryadas won the victory.Thucydides says that this place is inCynuria on the common border ofArgeia andLaconia. And there are alsoHysiae, a well-known place inArgolis, andCenchreae, which lies on the road that leads fromTegea toArgos through Mt.Parthenius and Creopolus, butHomer does not know them. Nor yet does he knowLyrceium norOrneae, which are villages inArgeia, the former bearing the same name as the mountain near it and the latter the same as theOrneae which is situated betweenCorinth andSikyon.
§ 8.6.18 So then, of the cities in thePeloponnesus,Argos andSparta prove to have been, and still are, the most famous; and, since they are much spoken of, there is all the less need for me to describe them at length, for if I did so I should seem to be repeating what has been said by all writers. Now in early timesArgos was the more famous, but later and ever afterwards theLacedemonians excelled, and persisted in preserving their autonomy, except perhaps when they chanced to make some slight blunder. Now theArgives did not, indeed, admitPyrrhus into their city (in fact, he fell before the walls, when a certain old woman, as it seems, dropped a tile upon his head), but they became subject to other kings; and after they had joined theAchaean League they came, along with theAchaeans, under the dominion ofRome; and their city persists to this day second in rank afterSparta.
§ 8.6.19 But let me speak next of the places which are named in theCatalogue of Ships as subject toMycenae andMenelaus. The words of the poet are as follows: "And those who heldMycenae, well-built fortress, and wealthyCorinth and well-builtKleonai, and dwelt inOrneiae and lovelyAraethyree andSikyon, whereinAdrastus was king at the first; and those who heldHyperesie and steepGonoessa andPellene, and dwelt aboutAegium and through all theAegialus and about broadHelice." NowMycenae is no longer in existence, but it was founded byPerseus, andPerseus was succeeded bySthenelus, andSthenelus byEurystheus; and the same men ruled overArgos also. NowEurystheus made an expedition toMarathon againstIolaus and the sons ofHeracles, with the aid of theAthenians, as the story goes, and fell in the battle, and his body was buried atGargettus, except his head, which was cut off byIolaus, and was buried separately atTricorynthus near the springMacaria below the wagon road. And the place is called "Eurystheus' Head." ThenMycenae fell to thePelopidae who had set out fromPisatis, and then to theHeracleidae, who also heldArgos. But after the naval battle atSalamis theArgives, along with theKleonaians andTegeatans, came over and utterly destroyedMycenae, and divided the country among themselves. Because of the nearness of the two cities to one another the writers of tragedy speak of them synonymously as though they were one city; andEuripides, even in the same drama, calls the same city, at one timeMycenae, at anotherArgos, as, for example, in hisIphigeneia and hisOrestes.Kleonai is a town situated by the road that leads fromArgos toCorinth, on a hill which is surrounded by dwellings on all sides and is well fortified, so that in my opinionHomer's words, "well-builtKleonai," were appropriate. And here too, betweenKleonai andPhlious, areNemea and the sacred precinct in which theArgives are wont to celebrate theNemean games, and the scene of the myth of theNemean lion, and the villageBembina.Kleonai is one hundred and twenty stadia distant fromArgos, and eighty fromCorinth. I myself have beheld the settlement fromAcrocorinthus.
§ 8.6.20 Corinth is called "wealthy" because of its commerce, since it is situated on theIsthmus and is master of two harbors, of which the one leads straight toAsia, and the other toItaly; and it makes easy the exchange of merchandise from both countries that are so far distant from each other. And just as in early times theStrait of Sicily was not easy to navigate, so also the high seas, and particularly the sea beyondMaleae, were not, on account of the contrary winds; and hence the proverb, "But when you doubleMaleae, forget your home." At any rate, it was a welcome alternative, for the merchants both fromItaly and fromAsia, to avoid the voyage toMaleae and to land their cargoes here. And also the duties on what by land was exported from thePeloponnesus and what was imported to it fell to those who held the keys. And to later times this remained ever so. But to theCorinthians of later times still greater advantages were added, for also theIsthmian Games, which were celebrated there, were wont to draw crowds of people. And theBacchiadae, a rich and numerous and illustrious family, became tyrants ofCorinth, and held their empire for nearly two hundred years, and without disturbance reaped the fruits of the commerce; and whenCypselus overthrew these, he himself became tyrant, and his house endured for three generations; and an evidence of the wealth of this house is the offering whichCypselus dedicated atOlympia, a huge statue of beaten gold. Again,Demaratus, one of the men who had been in power atCorinth, fleeing from the seditions there, carried with him so much wealth from his home toTyrrhenia that not only he himself became the ruler of the city that admitted him, but his son was made king of the Romans. And the sanctuary ofAphrodite was so rich that it owned more than a thousand temple slaves, courtesans, whom both men and women had dedicated to the goddess. And therefore it was also on account of these women that the city was crowded with people and grew rich; for instance, the ship captains freely squandered their money, and hence the proverb, "Not for every man is the voyage toCorinth." Moreover, it is recorded that a certain courtesan said to the woman who reproached her with the charge that she did not like to work or touch wool: "Yet, such as I am, in this short time I have taken down three webs."
§ 8.6.21 The situation of the city, as described byHieronymus andEudoxus and others, and from what I myself saw after the recent restoration of the city by the Romans, is about as follows: A lofty mountain with a perpendicular height of three stadia and one half, and an ascent of as much as thirty stadia, ends in a sharp peak; it is calledAcrocorinthus, and its northern side is the steepest; and beneath it lies the city in a level, trapezium-shaped place close to the very base of theAcrocorinthus. Now the circuit of the city itself used to be as much as forty stadia, and all of it that was unprotected by the mountain was enclosed by a wall; and even the mountain itself, theAcrocorinthus, used to be comprehended within the circuit of this wall wherever wall-building was possible, and when I went up the mountain the ruins of the encircling wall were plainly visible. And so the whole perimeter amounted to about eighty-five stadia. On its other sides the mountain is less steep, though here too it rises to a considerable height and is conspicuous all round. Now the summit has a small temple ofAphrodite; and below the summit is the springPeirene, which, although it has no overflow, is always full of transparent, potable water. And they say that the spring at the base of the mountain is the joint result of pressure from this and other subterranean veins of water — a spring which flows out into the city in such quantity that it affords a fairly large supply of water. And there is a good supply of wells throughout the city, as also, they say, on theAcrocorinthus; but I myself did not see the latter wells. At any rate, whenEuripides says, "I am come, having leftAcrocorinthus that is washed on all sides, the sacred hill-city ofAphrodite," one should take "washed on all sides" as meaning in the depths of the mountain, since wells and subterranean pools extend through it, or else should assume that in early timesPeirene was wont to rise over the surface and flow down the sides of the mountain. And here, they say,Pegasus, a wingedhorse which sprang from the neck of theGorgonMedusa when her head was cut off, was caught while drinking byBellerophon. And the samehorse, it is said, causedHippocrene to spring up onHelicon when he struck with his hoof the rock that lay below that mountain. And at the foot ofPeirene is the Sisypheium, which preserves no inconsiderable ruins of a certain sanctuary, or royal palace, made of white marble. And from the summit, looking towards the north, one can viewParnassus andHelicon — lofty, snow-clad mountains — and theCrisaean Gulf, which lies at the foot of the two mountains and is surrounded byPhocis,Boeotia, andMegaris, and by the parts ofCorinthia andSikyonia which lie across the gulf opposite toPhocis, that is, towards the west. And above all these countries lie the Oneian Mountains, as they are called, which extend as far asBoeotia andCithaeron from theSceironian Rocks, that is, from the road that leads along these rocks towardsAttica.
§ 8.6.22 The beginning of the seaboard on the two sides is, on the one side,Lechaion, and, on the other,Cenchreae, a village and a harbor distant about seventy stadia fromCorinth. Now this latter they use for the trade fromAsia, butLechaion for that fromItaly.Lechaion lies beneath the city, and does not contain many residences; butlong walls about twelve stadia in length have been built on both sides of the road that leads toLechaion. The shore that extends from here toPagae inMegaris is washed by theCorinthian Gulf; it is concave, and with the shore on the other side, atSchoenus, which is nearCenchreae, it forms the "Diolcus." In the interval betweenLechaion andPagae there used to be, in early times, the oracle of theAcraean Hera; and here, too, isOlmiae, the promontory that forms the gulf in which are situatedOinoe andPagae, the latter a stronghold of theMegarians andOinoe of theCorinthians. FromCenchreae one comes toSchoenus, where is the narrow part of the isthmus, I mean the "Diolcus"; and then one comes toCrommyonia. Off this shore lie theSaronic andEleusinian Gulfs, which in a way are the same, and border on theHermionic Gulf. On theIsthmus is also thesanctuary ofIsthmianPoseidon, in the shade of a grove of pinetrees, where theCorinthians used to celebrate theIsthmian Games.Crommyon is a village inCorinthia, though in earlier times it was inMegaris; and in it is laid the scene of the myth of theCrommyoniansow, which, it is said, was the mother of theCalydonian Boar; and, according to tradition, the destruction of thissow was one of the labors ofTheseus.Tenea, also, is inCorinthia, and in it is a sanctuary of theTeneatanApollo; and it is said that most of the colonists who accompaniedArchias, the leader of the colonists toSyracuse, set out from there, and that afterwardsTenea prospered more than the other settlements, and finally even had a government of its own, and, revolting from theCorinthians, joined the Romans, and endured after the destruction ofCorinth. And mention is also made of an oracle that was given to a certain man fromAsia, who enquired whether it was better to change his home toCorinth: "Blest isCorinth, butTenea for me." But in ignorance some pervert this as follows: "butTegea for me!" And it is said thatPolybus rearedOidipus here. And it seems, also, that there is a kinship between the peoples ofTenedos andTenea, throughTennes the son ofCycnus, asAristotle says; and the similarity in the worship ofApollo among the two peoples affords strong indications of such kinship.
§ 8.6.23 TheCorinthians, when they were subject toPhilip, not only sided with him in his quarrel with the Romans, but individually behaved so contemptuously towards the Romans that certain persons ventured to pour down filth upon the Roman ambassadors when passing by their house. For this and other offences, however, they soon paid the penalty, for a considerable army was sent thither, and the city itself was razed to the ground by LeuciusMummius; and the other countries as far asMacedonia became subject to the Romans, different commanders being sent into different countries; but theSikyonians obtained most of theCorinthian country.Polybius, who speaks in a tone of pity of the events connected with the capture ofCorinth, goes on to speak of the disregard shown by the army for the works of art and votive offerings; for he says that he was present and saw paintings that had been flung to the ground and saw the soldiers playing dice on these. Among the paintings he names that ofDionysus byAristeides, to which, according to some writers, the saying, "Nothing in comparison with theDionysus," referred; and also the painting ofHeracles in torture in the robe ofDeianeira. Now I have not seen the latter, but I saw theDionysus, a most beautiful work, on the walls of the sanctuary ofCeres inRome; but when recently the temple was burned, the painting perished with it. And I may almost say that the most and best of the other dedicatory offerings atRome came from there; and the cities in the neighborhood ofRome also obtained some; forMummius, being magnanimous rather than fond of art, as they say, readily shared with those who asked. And whenLucullus built thesanctuary ofGood Fortune and a portico, he askedMummius for the use of the statues which he had, saying that he would adorn the sanctuary with them until the dedication and then give them back. However, he did not give them back, but dedicated them to the goddess, and then badeMummius to take them away if he wished. ButMummius took it lightly, for he cared nothing about them, so that he gained more repute than the man who dedicated them. Now afterCorinth had remained deserted for a long time, it was restored again, because of its favorable position, by the deifiedCaesar, who colonized it with people that belonged for the most part to the freedmen class. And when these were removing the ruins and at the same time digging open the graves, they found numbers of terra-cotta reliefs, and also many bronze vessels. And since they admired the workmanship they left no grave unransacked; so that, well supplied with such things and disposing of them at a high price, they filledRome withCorinthian "mortuaries," for thus they called the things taken from the graves, and in particular the earthenware. Now at the outset the earthenware was very highly prized, like the bronzes ofCorinthian workmanship, but later they ceased to care much for them, since the supply of earthen vessels failed and most of them were not even well executed. The city of theCorinthians, then, was always great and wealthy, and it was well equipped with men skilled both in the affairs of state and in the craftsman's arts; for both here and inSikyon the arts of painting and modelling and all such arts of the craftsman flourished most. The city had territory, however, that was not very fertile, but rifted and rough; and from this fact all have calledCorinth "beetling," and use the proverb, "Corinth is both beetle-browed and full of hollows."
§ 8.6.24 Orneae is named after the river that flows past it. It is deserted now, although formerly it was well peopled, and had a sanctuary ofPriapus that was held in honor; and it was fromOrneae that theEuphronius who composed the Priapeia calls the god "Priapus theOrneatan."Orneae is situated above the plain of theSikyonians, but the country was possessed by theArgives.Araethyrea is the country which is now calledPhliasia; and near the mountainCelossa it had a city of the same name as the country; but the inhabitants later emigrated from here, and at a distance of thirty stadia founded a city which they calledPhlious. A part of the mountainCelossa is Mt. Carneates, whence theAsopus takes its beginning — the river that flows pastSikyonia, and forms the Asopian country, which is a part ofSikyonia. There is also anAsopus that flows pastThebes andPlataea andTanagra, and there isanother in theTrachinianHeracleia that flows past a village which they callParasopii, and there is a fourth inParos.Phlious is situated in the center of a circle formed bySikyonia,Argeia,Kleonai andStymphalus. InPhlious andSikyon the sanctuary ofDia is held in honor; andDia is their name forHebe.
§ 8.6.25 In earlier timesSikyon was calledMecone, and in still earlier times Aegiali, butDemetrius rebuilt it upon a hill strongly fortified by nature about twenty stadia (others say twelve) from the sea; and the old settlement, which has a harbor, is a naval station. The RiverNemea forms the boundary betweenSikyonia andCorinthia.Sikyon was ruled by tyrants most of the time, but its tyrants were always reasonable men, among whom the most illustrious wasAratus, who not only set the city free, but also ruled over theAchaeans, who voluntarily gave him the authority, and he increased the league by adding to it both his nativeSikyon and the other cities near it. ButHyperesia and the cities that come in their order after it, which the poet mentions, and theAegialus as far asDyme and the boundaries ofEleia already belonged to theAchaeans.
§ 8.7.1 Achaea In antiquity this country was under the mastery of theIonians, who were sprung from theAthenians; and in antiquity it was calledAegialeia, and the inhabitants Aegialeians, but later it was calledIonia after theIonians, just asAttica also was calledIonia afterIon the son ofXuthus. They say thatHellen was the son ofDeucalion, and that he was lord of the people between thePeneius and theAsopus in the region ofPhthia and gave over his rule to the eldest of his sons, but that he sent the rest of them to different places outside, each to seek a settlement for himself. One of these sons,Dorus, united theDorians aboutParnassus into one state, and at his death left them named after himself; another,Xuthus, who had married the daughter ofErechtheus, founded theTetrapolis ofAttica, consisting ofOinoe,Marathon,Probalinthus, andTricorynthus. One of the sons ofXuthus,Achaeus, who had committed involuntary manslaughter, fled toLacedemon and brought it about that the people there were calledAchaeans; andIon conquered theThracians underEumolpus, and thereby gained such high repute that theAthenians turned over their government to him. At firstIon divided the people into four tribes, but later into four occupations: four he designated as farmers, others as artisans, others as sacred officers, and a fourth group as the guards. And he made several regulations of this kind, and at his death left his own name to the country. But the country had then come to be so populous that theAthenians even sent forth a colony ofIonians to thePeloponnesus, and caused the country which they occupied to be calledIonia after themselves instead of Aegialus; and the men were divided into twelve cities and calledIonians instead of Aegialeians. But after the return of theHeracleidae they were driven out by theAchaeans and went back again toAthens; and from there they sent forth with theCodridae theIonian colony toAsia, and these founded twelve cities on the seaboard ofCaria andLydia, thus dividing themselves into the same number of parts as the cities they had occupied in thePeloponnesus. Now theAchaeans werePhthiotae in race, but they lived inLacedemon; and when theHeracleidae prevailed, theAchaeans were won over byTisamenus, the son ofOrestes, as I have said before, attacked theIonians, and proving themselves more powerful than theIonians drove them out and took possession of the land themselves; and they kept the division of the country the same as it was when they received it. And they were so powerful that, although theHeracleidae, from whom they had revolted, held the rest of thePeloponnesus, still they held out against one and all, and named the countryAchaea. Now fromTisamenus toOgyges they continued under the rule of kings; then, under a democratic government, they became so famous for their constitutions that the Italiotes, after the uprising against the Pythagoreians, actually borrowed most of their usages from theAchaeans. And after the battle atLeuctra theThebans turned over to them the arbitration of the disputes which the cities had with one another; and later, when their league was dissolved by theMacedonians, they gradually recovered themselves. WhenPyrrhus made his expedition toItaly, four cities came together and began a new league, among which werePatrae andDyme; and then they began to add some of the twelve cities, exceptOlenus andHelice, the former having refused to join and the latter having been wiped out by a wave from the sea.
§ 8.7.2 For the sea was raised by an earthquake and it submergedHelice, and also the sanctuary of the HeliconianPoseidon, whom theIonians worship even to this day, offering there thePan-Ionian sacrifices. And, as some suppose,Homer recalls this sacrifice when he says: "but he breathed out his spirit and bellowed, as when a draggedbull bellows round the altar of theHeliconian lord." And they infer that the poet lived after theIonian colonization, since he mentions the Pan-Ionian sacrifice, which theIonians perform in honor of the HeliconianPoseidon in the country of thePrienians; for thePrienians themselves are also said to be fromHelice; and indeed as king for this sacrifice they appoint aPrienian young man to superintend the sacred rites. But still more they base the supposition in question on what the poet says about thebull; for theIonians believe that they obtain omens in connection with this sacrifice only when thebull bellows while being sacrificed. But the opponents of the supposition apply the above-mentioned inferences concerning thebull and the sacrifice toHelice, on the ground that these were customary there and that the poet was merely comparing the rites that were celebrated there.Helice was submerged by the sea two years before the battle atLeuctra. AndEratosthenes says that he himself saw the place, and that the ferrymen say that there was a bronzePoseidon in the strait, standing erect, holding a hippo-campus in his hand, which was perilous for those who fished with nets. AndHeracleides says that the submersion took place by night in his time, and, although the city was twelve stadia distant from the sea, this whole district together with the city was hidden from sight; and two thousand men who had been sent by theAchaeans were unable to recover the dead bodies; and they divided the territory ofHelice among the neighbors; and the submersion was the result of the anger ofPoseidon, for theIonians who had been driven out ofHelice sent men to ask the inhabitants ofHelice particularly for the statue ofPoseidon, or, if not that, for a likeness of the sacred object; and when the inhabitants refused to give either, theIonians sent word to the general council of theAchaeans; but although the assembly voted favorably, yet even so the inhabitants ofHelice refused to obey; and the submersion resulted the following winter; but theAchaeans later gave the likeness to theIonians.Hesiod mentions still anotherHelice, inThessaly.
§ 8.7.3 Now for twenty years theAchaeans continued to have a general secretary and two generals, elected annually; and with them a common council was convened at one place (it was calledAmarium), in which these, as did theIonians before them, dealt with affairs of common interest; then they decided to elect only one general. And whenAratus was general he took theAcrocorinthus away fromAntigonus and added the city ofCorinth to theAchaean League, just as he had added his native city; and he also took over theMegarians; and breaking up the tyrannies in the several cities he made the peoples who were thus set free members of theAchaean League. And he set thePeloponnesus free from its tyrannies, so thatArgos,Hermion,Phlious, andMegalopolis, the largest city inArcadia, were added to the League; and it was at this time that the League reached the height of its power. It was the time when the Romans, after their expulsion of theCarthaginians fromSicily, made their expedition against theGalatae who lived in the region of thePadus River. But although theAchaean League persisted rather firmly until the time of the generalship ofPhilopoemen, yet it was gradually dissolved, since by this time the Romans were in possession of the whole of Greece, and they did not deal with the several states in the same way, but wished to preserve some and to destroy others. Then he tells the cause of his enlarging upon the subject of theAchaeans, saying that, although they increased in power to the point of surpassing even theLacedemonians, they are not as well known as they deserve to be.
§ 8.7.4 The order of the places in which theAchaeans settled, after dividing the country into twelve parts, is as follows: First afterSikyon liesPellene; then, second,Aegeira; third,Aegae, which has a sanctuary ofPoseidon; fourth,Bura; afterBura,Helice, whither theIonians fled for refuge after they were conquered in battle by theAchaeans, and whence at last they were expelled; and, afterHelice,Aegium andRhypes andPatrae andPharae; thenOlenus, past which flows thePeirus, a large river; thenDyme andTritaea. Now theIonians lived in villages, but theAchaeans founded cities; and to certain of these they later united others, transferring them from the other divisions, as, for example,Aegae toAegeira (the inhabitants, however, were calledAegaeans), andOlenus toDyme. Traces of the old settlement of theOlenians are shown betweenPatrae andDyme; and here, too, is the notable sanctuary ofAsclepius, which is forty stadia distant fromDyme and eighty fromPatrae. Of the same name as thisAegae is theAegae inEuboea; and of the same name asOlenus is the settlement [Olenos ] inAitolia, this too preserving only traces of its former self. Now the poet does not mention theOlenus inAchaea, just as he does not mention several other inhabited places in the region of theAegialus, although he speaks of them in a rather general way: "And through all theAegialus and about broadHelice." But he mentions theAitolianOlenus, when he says: "those who dwelt inPleuron andOlenus." And he speaks of both places called Aegae: theAchaeanAegae, when he says, "yet they bring up gifts for thee into bothHelice andAegae" but when he says, "Aegae, where is his famous palace in the deeps of the mere," "wherePoseidon halted hishorses," it is better to take him as meaning theAegae inEuboea, from which it is probable that also theAegean Sea got its name; and here too the poet has placed the activities ofPoseidon in connection with theTrojan War. Close to theAchaeanAegae flows theCrathis River, which is increased by the waters of two other rivers; and it gets its name from the fact that it is a mixture, as does also theCrathis inItaly.
§ 8.7.5 Each of the twelve divisions consisted of seven or eight communities, so populous was the country.Pellene is situated sixty stadia above the sea, and it is a strong fortress. But there is also a villagePellene, from which come the Pellenic cloaks, which they were also wont to set up as prizes at the games; it lies betweenAegium andPellene. ButPellana is different from these two; it is aLaconian place, and its territory inclines, approximately, towards the territory ofMegalopolis.Aegeira is situated on a hill.Bura, which was swallowed up in an, earthquake, is situated above the sea at a distance of about forty stadia; and they say that it was from the spring Sybaris inBura that the river inItaly got its name.Aega (forAegae is also called thus) is now uninhabited, and the city is in the possession of the people ofAegium. ButAegium has a considerable population. The story is told thatZeus was nursed by agoat there, just asAratus says: "Sacredgoat, which, in story, didst hold thy breast o'erZeus;" and he goes on to say that "the interpreters call her theOleniangoat ofZeus," thus clearly indicating that the place is nearOlene. Here too isCerynia, which is situated on a high rock. These places belong to the people ofAegium, and so doesHelice, and the grove ofZeus, theAmarium, where theAchaeans met to deliberate on affairs of common interest. And theSelinus River flows through the territory ofAegium; it bears the same name as the river that flows inEphesus past theArtemisium, and also theriver in theEleia of today that flows past the plot of land whichXenophon says he bought forArtemis in accordance with an oracle. And there is another Selinus; it flows past the territory of theHyblaeanMegarians, whom theCarthaginians forced to migrate. As for the remaining cities, or divisions, of theAchaeans, one of them,Rhypes, is uninhabited, and the territory calledRhypis was held by the people ofAegium and the people ofPharae.Aeschylus, too, says somewhere: "SacredBura and thunder-smittenRhypes."Myscellus, the founder ofCroton, was fromRhypes. AndLeuctrum too, a deme ofRhypes, belonged to the district of Rhypis. AfterRhypes comesPatrae, a noteworthy city; between the two, however, isRhium (alsoAntirrhium), which is forty stadia distant fromPatrae. And recently the Romans, after their victory atActium, settled a considerable part of the army atPatrae; and it is exceptionally populous at present, since it is a Roman colony; and it has a fairly good anchoring-place. Next comesDyme, a city without a harbor, the farthest of all towards the west, a fact from which it takes its name. But in earlier times it was called Stratos. The boundary between it and theEleian country,Buprasium, is formed by theLarisus River, which flows from a mountain. Some writers call this mountainScollis, butHomer calls it theOlenian Rock. WhenAntimachus callsDyme "Cauconian," some interpret "Cauconian" as an epithet derived from theCauconians, since theCauconians extended as far asDyme, as I have already said above, but others as derived from a RiverCaucon, just asThebes is called "Dircaean" and "Asopian,"Argos "Inacheian," andTroy "Simuntian." But shortly before my timeDyme received as colonists a mixed group of people whomPompey still had left over from the crowd ofpirates, after he broke up allpiracy and settled some of thepirates atSoli inCilicia and others in other places — and in particular atDyme.Phara borders on the territory ofDyme. The people of thisPhara are calledPhareis, but those of theMessenian cityPharaeatae; and in the territory ofPhara is a springDirce which bears the same name as the spring atThebes. ButOlenus is deserted; it lies betweenPatrae andDyme; and its territory is held by the people ofDyme. Then comesAraxus, the promontory of theEleian country, one thousand and thirty stadia from the isthmus.
§ 8.8.1 ArcadiaArcadia lies in the middle of thePeloponnesus; and most of the country which it includes is mountainous. The greatest mountain in it isCyllene; at any rate some say that its perpendicular height is twenty stadia, though others say about fifteen. TheArcadian tribes — theAzanes, theParrhasians, and other such peoples — are reputed to be the most ancient tribes of the Greeks. But on account of the complete devastation of the country it would be inappropriate to speak at length about these tribes; for the cities, which in earlier times had become famous, were wiped out by the continuous wars, and the tillers of the soil have been disappearing even since the times when most of the cities were united into what was called the "Great City." But now theGreat City itself has suffered the fate described by the comic poet: "TheGreat City is a great desert." But there are ample pastures forcattle, particularly forhorses andasses that are used as stallions. And theArcadian breed ofhorses, like theArgolic and theEpidaurian, is most excellent. And the deserted lands of theAitolians andAcarnanians are also well adapted to horse-raising — no less so thanThessaly.
§ 8.8.2 NowMantineia was made famous byEpameinondas, who conquered theLacedemonians in the second battle, in which he himself lost his life. ButMantineia itself, as alsoOrchomenus,Heraea,Cleitor,Pheneus,Stymphalus,Maenalus,Methydrium,Caphyeis, andCynaetha, no longer exist; or else traces or signs of them are scarcely to be seen. ButTegea still endures fairly well, and so does the sanctuary of theAlean Athene; and thesanctuary ofZeus Lycaeus situated near Mt.Lycaion is also honored to a slight extent. But three of the cities mentioned by the poet, "Rhipe andStratie, and windyEnispe," are not only hard to find, but are of no use to any who find them, because they are deserted.
§ 8.8.3 Famous mountains, in addition toCyllene, arePholoe,Lycaion,Maenalus, and theParthenium, as it is called, which extends from the territory ofTegea down to theArgive country.
§ 8.8.4 I have already mentioned the marvellous circumstances pertaining to theAlpheius and theEurotas, and also to theErasinus, which now flows underground from theStymphalian Lake, and issues forth into theArgive country, although in earlier times it had no outlet, since the "berethra," which theArcadians call "zerethra," were stopped up and did not admit of the waters being carried off so that the city of theStymphalians is now fifty stadia distant from the lake, although then it was situated on the lake. But the contrary was the case with theLadon, since its stream was once checked because of the blocking up of its sources; for the "berethra" nearPheneus, through which it flowed, fell in as the result of an earthquake and checked the stream as far down into the depths of the earth as the veins which supplied its source. Thus some writers tell it. ButEratosthenes says that nearPheneus the river Anias, as it is called, makes a lake of the region in front of the city and flows down into sink-holes, which are called "zerethra"; and when these are stopped up the water sometimes overflows into the plains, and when they are again opened up it rushes out of the plains all at once and empties into theLadon and theAlpheius, so that even atOlympia the land around the sanctuary was once inundated, while the lake was reduced; and theErasinus, which flows pastStymphalus, sinks and flows beneath the mountain and reappears in theArgive land; and it was on this account, also, thatIphicrates, when he was besiegingStymphalus and accomplishing nothing, tried to block up the sink with a large quantity of sponges with which he had supplied himself, but desisted whenZeus sent an omen from the sky. And nearPheneus is also the water of theStyx, as it is called — a small stream of deadly water which is held to be sacred. So much may be said concerningArcadia.
§ 8.8.5 Polybius states that the distance fromMaleae towards the north as far as theIster is about ten thousand stadia, butArtemidorus corrects the statement in an appropriate manner by saying that fromMaleae toAegium is a journey of fourteen hundred stadia, and thence toCyrrha a voyage of two hundred, and thence throughHeracleia toThaumaci a journey of five hundred, and then toLarisa and thePeneius three hundred and forty, and then throughTempe to the outlets of thePeneius two hundred and forty, and then toThessaloniceia six hundred and sixty, and thence throughEidomene andStobi and Dardanii to theIster three thousand two hundred. According toArtemidorus, therefore, the distance from theIster toMaleae amounts to six thousand five hundred and forty stadia. The cause of this excess is that he does not give the measurement of the shortest route, but of the chance route which one of the generals took. And it is not out of place, perhaps, to add also the colonizers, mentioned byEphorus, of the peoples who settled in thePeloponnesus after the return of theHeracleidae:Aletes, the colonizer ofCorinth,Phalces ofSikyon,Tisamenus ofAchaea,Oxylus ofElis,Cresphontes ofMessene,Eurysthenes andProcles ofLacedemon,Temenus andCissus ofArgos, and Agaeus andDeiphontes of the region aboutActe.
§ 9.1.1 Attica Now that I have completed my circuit of thePeloponnesus, which, as I have said, was the first and the smallest of the peninsulas of which Greece consists, it will be next in order to traverse those that are continuous with it. The second peninsula is the one that addsMegaris to thePeloponnesus, so thatCrommyon belongs to theMegarians and not to theCorinthians; the third is the one which, in addition to the second, comprisesAttica andBoeotia and a part ofPhocis and of theEpicnemidian Locrians. I must therefore describe these two.Eudoxus says that if one should imagine a straight line drawn in an easterly direction from theCeraunian Mountains toSounion, the promontory ofAttica, it would leave on the right, towards the south, the whole of thePeloponnesus, and on the left, towards the north, the continuous coastline from theCeraunian Mountains to theCrisaean Gulf andMegaris, and the coastline of allAttica. And he believes that the shore which extends fromSounion to theIsthmus would not be so concave as to have a great bend, if to this shore were not added the districts continuous with theIsthmus which form theHermionic Gulf and Acte; and, in the same way, he believes that the shore which extends from theCeraunian Mountains to theCorinthian Gulf would not, viewed by itself alone, have so great a bend as to be concave like a gulf ifRhium andAntirrhium did not draw closely together and afford this appearance; and the same is true of the shores that surround the recess of the gulf, where the sea in this region comes to an end.
§ 9.1.2 Since this is the description given byEudoxus, a mathematician and an expert both in geometrical figures and in "climata," and acquainted with these places, one must conceive of this side ofAttica together withMegaris — the side extending fromSounion to theIsthmus — as concave, though only slightly so. Now here, at about the center of the aforesaid line, is thePeiraeus, the seaport ofAthens. It is distant fromSchoenus, at theIsthmus, about three hundred and fifty stadia, and fromSounion three hundred and thirty. The distance from thePeiraeus toPagae also is nearly the same as toSchoenus, though the former is said to exceed the latter by ten stadia. After doublingSounion one's voyage is towards the north, but with an inclination towards the west.
§ 9.1.3 Acte is washed by two seas; it is narrow at first, and then it widens out into the interior, though none the less it takes a crescent-like bend towardsOropus inBoeotia, with the convex side towards the sea; and this is the second, the eastern side ofAttica. Then comes the remaining side, which faces the north and extends from theOropian country towards the west as far asMegaris — I mean the mountainous part ofAttica, which has many names and separatesBoeotia fromAttica; so that, as I have said before,Boeotia, since it has a sea on either side, becomes an isthmus of the third peninsula above-mentioned, an isthmus comprising within it the parts that lie towards thePeloponnesus, that is,Megaris andAttica. And it is on this account, they say, that the country which is now, by a slight change of letters, calledAttica, was in ancient times called Acte and Actice, because the greatest part of it lies below the mountains, stretches flat along the sea, is narrow, and has considerable length, projecting as far asSounion. I shall therefore describe these sides, resuming again at that point of the seaboard where I left off.
§ 9.1.4 AfterCrommyon, and situated aboveAttica, are theSceironian Rocks. They leave no room for a road along the sea, but the road from theIsthmus toMegara andAttica passes above them. However, the road approaches so close to the rocks that in many places it passes along the edge of precipices, because the mountain situated above them is both lofty and impracticable for roads. Here is the setting of the myth aboutSceiron and thePityocamptes, the robbers who infested the above-mentioned mountainous country and were killed byTheseus. And theAthenians have given the nameSceiron to theArgestes, the violent wind that blows down on the travellers left from the heights of this mountainous country. After theSceironian Rocks one comes to CapeMinoa, which projects into the sea and forms the harbor atNisaea.Nisaea is the naval station of theMegarians; it is eighteen stadia distant from the city and is joined to it on both sides by walls. The naval station, too, used to be calledMinoa.
§ 9.1.5 In early times this country was held by the sameIonians who heldAttica.Megara, however, had not yet been founded; and therefore the poet does not specifically mention this region, but when he calls all the people ofAtticaAthenians he includes these too under the general name, considering themAthenians. Thus, when he says in theCatalogue, "And those who heldAthens, well-built city," we must interpret him as meaning the people now calledMegarians as well, and assume that these also had a part in the expedition. And the following is proof: In early timesAttica was calledIonia andIas; and when the poet says, "There theBoeotians and the Iaonians," he means theAthenians; andMegaris was a part of thisIonia.
§ 9.1.6 Furthermore, since thePeloponnesians andIonians were having frequent disputes about their boundaries, on which, among other places,Crommyonia was situated, they made an agreement and erected a pillar in the place agreed upon, near theIsthmus itself, with an inscription on the side facing thePeloponnesus reading: "This isPeloponnesus, notIonia," and on the side facingMegara, "This is notPeloponnesus, butIonia." And though the writers of the histories of The Land ofAtthis are at variance on many things, they all agree on this (at least all writers who are worth mentioning), thatPandion had four sons,Aegeus,Lycus,Pallas, and the fourth,Nisus, and that whenAttica was divided into four parts,Nisus obtainedMegaris as his portion and foundedNisaea. Now, according toPhilochorus, his rule extended from theIsthmus to the Pythium, but according toAndron, only as far asEleusis and theThriasian Plain. Although different writers have stated the division into four parts in different ways, it suffices to take the following fromSophocles:Aegeus says that his father ordered him to depart to the shorelands, assigning to him as the eldest the best portion of this land; then toLycus "he assignsEuboea's garden that lies side by side therewith; and forNisus he selects the neighboring land ofSceiron's shore; and the southerly part of the land fell to this ruggedPallas, breeder of giants." These, then, are the proofs which writers use to show thatMegaris was a part ofAttica.
§ 9.1.7 But after the return of theHeracleidae and the partitioning of the country, it came to pass that many of the former inhabitants were driven out of their homelands intoAttica by theHeracleidae and theDorians who came back with them. Among these wasMelanthus, the king ofMessene. And he reigned also over theAthenians, by their consent, after his victory in single combat overXanthus, the king of theBoeotians. But sinceAttica was now populous on account of the exiles, theHeracleidae became frightened, and at the instigation chiefly of the people ofCorinth and the people ofMessene — of the former because of their proximity and of the latter becauseCodrus, the son ofMelanthus, was at that time king ofAttica — they made an expedition againstAttica. But being defeated in battle they retired from the whole of the land except theMegarian territory; this they occupied and not only founded the cityMegara but also made its populationDorians instead ofIonians. And they also destroyed the pillar which was the boundary between theIonians and thePeloponnesians.
§ 9.1.8 The city of theMegarians has experienced many changes, but nevertheless it has endured until the present time. It once even had schools of philosophers who were called theMegarian sect, these being the successors ofEucleides, theSocratic philosopher, aMegarian by birth, just as theEleian sect, to whichPyrrhon belonged, were the successors ofPhaedon theEleian, who was also aSocratic philosopher, and just as theEretrian sect were the successors ofMenedemus theEretrian. The country of theMegarians, likeAttica, has rather poor soil, and the greater part of it is occupied by the Oneian Mountains, as they are called — a kind of ridge, which extends from theSceironian Rocks toBoeotia andCithaeron, and separates the sea atNisaea from theAlcyonian Sea, as it is called, atPagae.
§ 9.1.9 On the voyage fromNisaea toAttica one comes to five small islands. Then toSalamis, which is about seventy stadia in length, though some say eighty. It contains a city of the same name; the ancient city, now deserted, faces towardsAigina and the south wind (just asAeschylus has said, "AndAigina here lies towards the blasts of the south wind"), but the city of today is situated on a gulf, on a peninsula-like place which borders onAttica. In early times it was called by different names, for example, "Sciras" and "Cychreia," after certain heroes. It is from one of these heroes thatAthena is called "Skiras," and that a place inAttica is called "Scira," and that a certain sacred rite is performed in honor of "Scirus," and that one of the months is called "Scirophorion." And it is from the other hero that theserpent "Cychreides" took its name — theserpent which, according toHesiod, was fostered byCychreus and driven out byEurylochus because it was damaging the island, and was welcomed toEleusis byDemeter and made her attendant. And the island was also called Pityussa, from the tree. But the fame of the island is due to theAiacidae, who ruled over it, and particularly toAias, the son ofTelamon, and also to the fact that near this islandXerxes was defeated by the Greeks in anaval battle and fled to his homeland. And theAiginetans also shared in the glory of this struggle, since they were neighbors and furnished a considerable fleet. And there is inSalamis a riverBocarus, which is now called Bocalia.
§ 9.1.10 At the present time the island is held by theAthenians, although in early times there was strife between them and theMegarians for its possession. Some say that it wasPeisistratus, othersSolon, who inserted in theCatalogue of Ships immediately after the verse, "andAias brought twelve ships fromSalamis," the verse, "and, bringing them, halted them where the battalions of theAthenians were stationed," and then used the poet as a witness that the island had belonged to theAthenians from the beginning. But the critics do not accept this interpretation, because many of the verses bear witness to the contrary. For why isAias found in the last place in the ship-camp, not with theAthenians, but with theThessalians underProtesilaus? "Here were the ships ofAias andProtesilaus." And in the Visitation of the troops,Agamemnon "foundMenestheus the charioteer, son ofPeteos, standing still; and about him were theAthenians, masters of the battle-cry. And near by stoodOdysseus of many wiles, and about him, at his side, the ranks of theCephallenians." And back again toAias and theSalaminians, "he came to theAiantes," and near them, "Idomeneus on the other side," notMenestheus. TheAthenians, then, are reputed to have cited alleged testimony of this kind fromHomer, and theMegarians to have replied with the following parody: "Aias brought ships fromSalamis, fromPolichne, from Aegeirussa, fromNisaea, and fromTripodes"; these four areMegarian places, and, of these,Tripodes is calledTripodiscium, near which the present marketplace of theMegarians is situated.
§ 9.1.11 Some say thatSalamis is foreign toAttica, citing the fact that the priestess ofAthenaPolias does not touch the fresh cheese made inAttica, but eats only that which is brought from a foreign country, yet uses, among others, that fromSalamis. Wrongly, for she eats cheese brought from the other islands that are admittedly attached toAttica, since those who began this custom considered as "foreign" any cheese that was imported by sea. But it seems that in early times the presentSalamis was a separate state, and thatMegara was a part ofAttica. And it is on the seaboard oppositeSalamis that the boundaries between theMegarian country andAtthis are situated — two mountains which are calledCerata.
§ 9.1.12 Then one comes to the cityEleusis, in which is the sanctuary of theEleusinian Demeter, and the mystic chapel which was built byIctinus, a chapel which is large enough to admit a crowd of spectators. ThisIctinus also built theParthenon on theAcropolis in honor ofAthena,Pericles superintending the work.Eleusis is numbered among the demes.
§ 9.1.13 Then one comes to theThriasian Plain, and the shore and deme bearing the same name (Thria). Then to CapeAmphiale and the quarry that lies above it, and to the passage toSalamis, about two stadia wide, across whichXerxes attempted to build a mole, but was forestalled by the naval battle and the flight of thePersians. Here, too, are thePharmacussae, two small islands, on the larger of which is to be seen the tomb ofCirce.
§ 9.1.14 Above this shore is the mountain calledCorydallus, and also the demeCorydalleis. Then one comes to the harborPhoron, and toPsyttalia, a small, deserted, rocky island, which some have called the eyesore of thePeiraeus. And near by, too, isAtalanta, which bears the same name as the island nearEuboea and theLocrians, and another island similar toPsyttalia. Then one comes to thePeiraeus, which also is classed among the demes, and toMunychia.
§ 9.1.15 Munychia is a hill which forms a peninsula; and it is hollowed out and undermined in many places, partly by nature and partly by the purpose of man, so that it admits of dwellings; and the entrance to it is by means of a narrow opening And beneath the hill lie three harbors. Now in early timesMunychia was walled, and covered with habitations in a manner similar to the city of theRhodians, including within the circuit of its walls both thePeiraeus and the harbors, which were full of ship-sheds, among which was theArsenal, the work ofPhilon. And the naval station was sufficient for the four hundred ships, for no fewer than this theAthenians were wont to despatch on expeditions. With this wall were connected the "legs" that stretched down from the city; these were theLong Walls, forty stadia in length, which connected the city with thePeiraeus. But the numerous wars caused the ruin of the wall and of the fortress ofMunychia, and reduced thePeiraeus to a small settlement, round the harbors and the sanctuary ofZeus Soter. The small roofed colonnades of the sanctuary have admirable paintings, the works of famous artists; and its open court has statues. TheLong Walls, also, are torn down, having been destroyed at first by theLacedemonians, and later by the Romans, whenSulla took both thePeiraeus and the city by siege.
§ 9.1.16 The city itself is a rock situated in a plain and surrounded by dwellings. On the rock is the sacred precinct ofAthena, comprising both theold temple ofAthenaPolias, in which is the lamp that is never quenched, and theParthenon built byIctinus, in which is the work in ivory byPheidias, theAthena. However, if I once began to describe the multitude of things in this city that are lauded and proclaimed far and wide, I fear that I should go too far, and that my work would depart from the purpose I have in view. For the words ofHegesias occur to me: "I see theAcropolis, and the mark of the huge trident there. I seeEleusis, and I have become an initiate into itssacred mysteries; yonder is theLeocorium, here is theTheseium; I am unable to point them all out one by one; forAttica is the possession of the gods, who seized it as a sanctuary for themselves, and of the ancestral heroes." So this writer mentioned only one of the significant things on theAcropolis; butPolemon the Periegete wrote four books on the dedicatory offerings on theAcropolis alone.Hegesias is proportionately brief in referring to the other parts of the city and to the country; and though he mentionsEleusis, one of the one hundred and seventy demes (or one hundred and seventy-four, as the number is given), he names none of the others.
§ 9.1.17 Most of the demes, if not all, have numerous stories of a character both mythical and historical connected with them;Aphidna, for example, has the rape ofHelen byTheseus, the sacking of the place by theDioscuri and their recovery of their sister;Marathon has thePersian battle;Rhamnus has thestatue of Nemesis, which by some is called the work ofDiodotus and by others ofAgoracritus theParian, a work which both in grandeur and in beauty is a great success and rivals the works ofPheidias; and so withDeceleia, the base of operations of thePeloponnesians in theDeceleian War; andPhyle, whenceThrasybulus brought the popular party back to thePeiraeus and then to the city. And so, also, in the case of several other demes there are many historical incidents to tell; and, further, theLeocorium and theTheseium have myths connected with them, and so has theLyceium, and the Olympicum (theOlympium is the same thing), which the king who dedicated it left half finished at his death. And in like manner also theAcademy, and the gardens of the philosophers, and theOdeium, and the colonnade called "Poecile," and the sanctuaries in the city containing very many marvellous works of different artists.
§ 9.1.18 The account would be much longer if one should pass in review the early founders of the settlement, beginning withCecrops; for all writers do not agree about them, as is shown even by the names. For instance, Actice, they say, was derived fromActaeon; andAtthis andAttica fromAtthis, the daughter [or son?] ofCranaus, after whom the inhabitants were also called Cranai; and Mopsopia from Mopsopus; andIonia fromIon, the son ofXuthus; andPoseidonia andAthens from the gods after whom they were named. And, as has already been said, the race of thePelasgi clearly sojourned here too, and on account of their wanderings were called "Pelargi."
§ 9.1.19 The greater men's fondness for learning about things that are famous and the greater the number of men who have talked about them, the greater the censure, if one is not master of the historical facts. For example, in his Collection of the Rivers,Callimachus says that it makes him laugh if anyone makes bold to write that theAthenian virgins "draw pure liquid from theEridanus," from which evencattle would hold aloof. Its sources are indeed existent now, with pure and potable water, as they say, outside theGates of Diochares, as they are called, near theLyceium; but in earlier times there was also a fountain near by which was constructed by man, with abundant and excellent water; and even if the water is not so now, why should it be a thing to wonder at, if in early times the water was abundant and pure, and therefore also potable, but in later times underwent a change? However, it is not permitted me to linger over details, since they are so numerous, nor yet, on the other hand, to pass by them all in silence without even mentioning one or another of them in a summary way.
§ 9.1.20 It suffices, then, to add thus much: According toPhilochorus, when the country was being devastated, both from the sea by theCarians, and from the land by theBoeotians, who were calledAonians,Cecrops first settled the multitude in twelve cities, the names of which wereCecropia,Tetrapolis,Epacria,Deceleia,Eleusis,Aphidna (also calledAphidnae, in the plural),Thoricus,Brauron,Cytherus,Sphettus,Cephisia. And at a later timeTheseus is said to have united the twelve into one city, that of today. Now in earlier times theAthenians were ruled by kings; and then they changed to a democracy; but tyrants assailed them,Peisistratus and his sons; and later an oligarchy arose, not only that of the four hundred, but also that of the thirty tyrants, who were set over them by theLacedemonians; of these they easily rid themselves, and preserved the democracy until the Roman conquest. For even though they were molested for a short time by theMacedonian kings, and were even forced to obey them, they at least kept the general type of their government the same. And some say that they were actually best governed at that time, during the ten years whenCassander reigned over theMacedonians. For although this man is reputed to have been rather tyrannical in his dealings with all others, yet he was kindly disposed towards theAthenians, once he had reduced the city to subjection; for he placed over the citizensDemetrius ofPhalerum, one of the disciples ofTheophrastus the philosopher, who not only did not destroy the democracy but even improved it, as is made clear in the Memoirs whichDemetrius wrote concerning this government. But the envy and hatred felt for oligarchy was so strong that, after the death ofCassander,Demetrius was forced to flee toEgypt; and the statues of him, more than three hundred, were pulled down by the insurgents and melted, and some writers go on to say that they were made into chamber pots. Be that as it may, the Romans, seeing that theAthenians had a democratic government when they took them over, preserved their autonomy and liberty. But when theMithridatic War came on, tyrants were placed over them, whomever the king wished. The most powerful of these,Aristion, who violently oppressed the city, was punished bySulla the Roman commander when he took this city by siege, though he pardoned the city itself; and to this day it is free and held in honor among the Romans.
§ 9.1.21 After thePeiraeus comes the demePhalereis, on the seaboard next to it; thenHalimusii,Aexoneis,Alaeeis Aexonici, andAnagyrasii. ThenThoreis,Lamptreis,Aegilieis,Anaphlystii,Ateneis. These are the demes as far as the cape ofSounion. Between the aforesaid demes is a long cape, the first cape afterAexoneis,Zoster; then another afterThoreis, I meanAstypalaea; off the former of these lies the islandPhabra and off the latter the islandEleussa; and also oppositeAexonieis isHydrussa. And in the neighborhood ofAnaphlystus is also the shrine ofPan, and the sanctuary ofAphroditeColias, at which place, they say, were cast forth by the waves the last wreckage of the ships after thePersian naval battle nearSalamis, the wreckage concerning whichApollo predicted "the women ofColias will cook food with the oars." Off these places, too, is the islandBelbina, at no great distance, and alsoPatroclou Charax. But most of these islands are uninhabited.
§ 9.1.22 On doubling the cape ofSounion one comes toSounion, a noteworthy deme; then toThoricus; then to a deme calledPotamus, whose inhabitants are called Potamii; then toPrasia, toSteiria, toBrauron, where is the sanctuary of theArtemisBrauronia, toHalae Araphenides, where is thesanctuary of ArtemisTauropolos, toMyrrinus, toProbalinthus, and toMarathon, whereMiltiades utterly destroyed the forces underDatis thePersian, without waiting for theLacedemonians, who came too late because they wanted the full moon. Here, too, is the scene of the myth of theMarathonianbull, which was slain byTheseus. AfterMarathon one comes toTricorynthus; then toRhamnus, the sanctuary ofNemesis; then toPsaphis, the land of theOropians. In the neighborhood ofPsaphis is theAmphiaraeium, an oracle once held in honor, where in his flightAmphiaraus, asSophocles says, "with four-horse chariot, armour and all, was received by a cleft that was made in theTheban dust."Oropus has often been disputed territory; for it is situated on the common boundary ofAttica andBoeotia. Off this coast are islands: offThoricus andSounion lies the islandHelene; it is rugged and deserted, and in its length of about sixty stadia extends parallel to the coast. This island, they say, is mentioned by the poet whereAlexander says toHelen: "Not even when first I snatched thee from lovelyLacedemon and sailed with thee on the seafaring ships, and in the islandCranae joined with thee in love and couch"; for he callsCranae the island now calledHelene from the fact that the intercourse took place there. And afterHelene comesEuboea, which lies off the next stretch of coast; it likewise is narrow and long and in length lies parallel to the mainland, likeHelene. The voyage fromSounion to the southerly promontory ofEuboea, which is calledLeuce Acte, is three hundred stadia. However, I shall discussEuboea later; but as for the demes in the interior ofAttica, it would be tedious to recount them because of their great number.
§ 9.1.23 Of the mountains, those which are most famous areHymettus,Brilessus, andLycabettus; and alsoParnes andCorydallus. Near the city are most excellent quarries of marble, theHymettian andPentelic.Hymettus also produces the best honey. The silver mines inAttica were originally valuable, but now they have failed. Moreover, those who worked them, when the mining yielded only meager returns, melted again the old refuse, or dross, and were still able to extract from it pure silver, since the workmen of earlier times had been unskillful in heating the ore in furnaces. But though theAttic honey is the best in the world, that in the country of the silver mines is said to be much the best of all, the kind which is called acapniston, from the mode of its preparation.
§ 9.1.24 The rivers ofAttica are theCephissus, which has its source in the demeTrinemeis; it flows through the plain (hence the allusions to the "bridge" and the "bridge-railleries " and then through the legs of the walls which extend from the city to thePeiraeus; it empties into thePhaleric Gulf, being a torrential stream most of the time, although in summer it decreases and entirely gives out. And such is still more the case with theIlissus, which flows from the other part of the city into the same coast, from the region aboveAgra and theLyceium, and from the fountain which is lauded byPlato in thePhaedrus. So much forAttica.
§ 9.2.1 Boeotia Next in order isBoeotia; and when I discuss this country and the tribes that are continuous with it, I must, for the sake of clearness, call to mind what I have said before. As I have said, the seaboard fromSounion toThessaloniceia extends towards the north, slightly inclining towards the west and keeping the sea on the east; and that the parts above this seaboard lie towards the west — ribbon-like stretches of country extending parallel to one another through the whole country. The first of these parts isAttica together withMegaris — a ribbon-like stretch of country, having as its eastern side the seaboard fromSounion toOropus andBoeotia, and as its western side theIsthmus and theAlcyonian Sea, which extends fromPagae to the boundaries ofBoeotia nearCreusa, and as its remaining two sides, the seaboard fromSounion to theIsthmus and the mountainous country approximately parallel thereto which separatesAttica fromBoeotia. The second of these parts isBoeotia, extending ribbon-like from the east towards the west, from theEuboean Sea to the sea at theCrisaean Gulf; and it is about equal in length toAttica or perhaps less; in the fertility of its soil, however, it is far superior.
§ 9.2.2 Ephorus declares thatBoeotia is superior to the countries of the bordering tribes, not only in fertility of soil, but also because it alone has three seas and has a greater number of good harbors; in theCrisaean andCorinthian Gulf s it receives the products ofItaly andSicily andLibya, while in the part which facesEuboea, since its seaboard branches off on either side of theEuripus, on one side towardsAulis and the territory ofTanagra and on the other towardsSalganeus andAnthedon, the sea stretches unbroken in the one direction towardsEgypt andCyprus and the islands, and in the other direction towardsMacedonia and the regions of thePropontis and theHellespont. And he adds thatEuboea has, in a way, been made a part ofBoeotia by theEuripus, since theEuripus is so narrow and is spanned by a bridge toEuripus only two plethra long. Now he praises the country on account of these things; and he says that it is naturally well suited to hegemony, but that those who were from time to time its leaders neglected careful training and education, and therefore, although they at times achieved success, they maintained it only for a short time, as is shown in the case ofEpameinondas; for after he died theThebans immediately lost the hegemony, having had only a taste of it; and that the cause of this was the fact that they belittled the value of learning and of intercourse with mankind, and cared for the military virtues alone.Ephorus should have added that these things are particularly useful in dealing with Greeks, although force is stronger than reason in dealing with the barbarians. And the Romans too, in ancient times, when carrying on war with savage tribes, needed no training of this kind, but from the time that they began to have dealings with more civilized tribes and races, they applied themselves to this training also, and so established themselves as lords of all.
§ 9.2.3 Be that as it may,Boeotia in earlier times was inhabited by barbarians, theAones and theTemmices, who wandered thither fromSounion, and by theLeleges and theHyantes. Then thePhoenicians occupied it, I mean thePhoenicians withCadmus, the man who fortified theCadmeia and left the dominion to his descendants. ThosePhoenicians foundedThebes in addition to theCadmeia, and preserved their dominion, commanding most of theBoeotians until the expedition of theEpigoni. On this occasion they leftThebes for a short time, but came back again. And, in the same way, when they were ejected by theThracians and thePelasgians, they established their government inThessaly along with theArnaei for a long time, so that they were all calledBoeotians. Then they returned to the homeland, at the time when theAeolian fleet, nearAulis inBoeotia, was now ready to set sail, I mean the fleet which the sons ofOrestes were despatching toAsia. After adding theOrchomenian country toBoeotia (for in earlier times theOrchomenians were not a part of theBoeotian community, nor didHomer enumerate them with theBoeotians, but as a separate people, for he called themMinyae), they, with theOrchomenians, drove out thePelasgians toAthens (it was after these that a part of the city was named "Pelasgicon," though they took up their abode belowHymettus), and theThracians toParnassus; and theHyantes founded a cityHyas inPhocis.
§ 9.2.4 Ephorus says that theThracians, after making a treaty with theBoeotians, attacked them by night when they, thinking that peace had been made, were encamping rather carelessly; and when theBoeotians frustrated theThracians, at the same time making the charge that they were breaking the treaty, theThracians asserted that they had not broken it, for the treaty said "by day," whereas they had made the attack by night; whence arose the proverb, "Thracian pretense"; and thePelasgians, when the war was still going on, went to consult the oracle, as did also theBoeotians. NowEphorus is unable, he says, to tell the oracular response that was given to thePelasgians, but the prophetess replied to theBoeotians that they would prosper if they committed sacrilege; and the messengers who were sent to consult the oracle, suspecting that the prophetess responded thus out of favor to thePelasgians, because of her kinship with them (indeed, the sanctuary also was from the beginningPelasgian), seized the woman and threw her upon a burning pile, for they considered that, whether she had acted falsely or had not, they were right in either case, since, if she uttered a false oracle, she had her punishment, whereas, if she did not act falsely, they had only obeyed the order of the oracle. Now those in charge of the sanctuary, he says, did not approve of putting to death without trial — and that too in the sanctuary — the men who did this, and therefore they brought them to trial, and summoned them before the priestesses, who were also the prophetesses, being the two survivors of the three; but when theBoeotians said that it was nowhere lawful for women to act as judges, they chose an equal number of men in addition to the women. Now the men, he says, voted for acquittal, but the women for conviction, and since the votes cast were equal, those for acquittal prevailed; and in consequence of this prophecies are uttered atDodona by men toBoeotians only; the prophetesses, however, explain the oracle to mean that the god ordered theBoeotians to steal the tripods and take one of them toDodona every year; and they actually do this, for they always take down one of the dedicated tripods by night and cover it up with garments, and secretly, as it were, carry it toDodona.
§ 9.2.5 After this theBoeotians cooperated withPenthilus and his followers in forming theAeolian colony, sending with him most of their own people, so that it was also called aBoeotian colony. A long time afterwards the country was thoroughly devastated by thePersian war that took place nearPlataeae. Then they recovered themselves to such an extent that theThebans, having conquered theLacedemonians in two battles, laid claim to supremacy over the Greeks. ButEpameinondas fell in the battle, and consequently they were disappointed in this hope; but still they went to war on behalf of the Greeks against thePhocians, who had robbed their common sanctuary. And after suffering loss from this war, as also from theMacedonians when these attacked the Greeks, they lost their city, which was razed to the ground by these same people, and then received it back from them when rebuilt. From that time on theThebans have fared worse and worse down to our own time, andThebes today does not preserve the character even of a respectable village; and the like is true of otherBoeotian cities, exceptTanagra andThespiae, which, as compared withThebes, have held out fairly well.
§ 9.2.6 Next in order I must make a circuit of the country, beginning at that part of the coastline oppositeEuboea which joinsAttica. The beginning isOropus, and the Sacred Harbor, which is calledDelphinium, opposite which is the ancientEretria inEuboea, the distance across being sixty stadia. AfterDelphinium, at a distance of twenty stadia, isOropus; and oppositeOropus is the presentEretria, and to it the passage across the strait is forty stadia.
§ 9.2.7 Then one comes toDelium, the sanctuary ofApollo, which is a reproduction of that inDelos. It is a small town of theTanagraeans, thirty stadia distant fromAulis. It was to this place that theAthenians, after their defeat in battle, made their headlong flight; and in the flightSocrates the philosopher, who was serving on foot, since hishorse had got away from him, sawXenophon the son ofGryllus lying on the ground, having fallen from hishorse, and took him up on his shoulders and carried him in safety for many stadia, until the flight ceased.
§ 9.2.8 Then one comes to a large harbor, which is calledBathys Limen; then toAulis, a rocky place and a village of theTanagraeans. Its harbor is large enough for only fifty boats; and therefore it is reasonable to suppose that the naval station of the Greeks was in the large harbor. And near by, also, is theEuripus atChalcis, to which the distance fromSounion is six hundred and seventy stadia; and over it is a bridge two plethra long, as I have said; and a tower stands on each side, one on the side ofChalcis, and the other on the side ofBoeotia; and tube-like passages have been constructed into the towers. Concerning the refluent currents of theEuripus it is enough to say only thus much, that they are said to change seven times each day and night; but the cause of the changes must be investigated elsewhere.
§ 9.2.9 Near theEuripus, upon a height, is situated a place calledSalganeus. It is named afterSalganeus, aBoeotian, who was buried there — the man who guided thePersians when they sailed into this channel from theMaliac Gulf. It is said that he was put to death before they reached theEuripus byMegabates, the commander of the fleet, because he was considered a villain, on the ground that he had deceitfully rushed the fleet into a blind alley of the sea, but that the barbarian, when he perceived that he himself was mistaken, not only repented, but deemed worthy of burial the man who had been put to death without cause.
§ 9.2.10 NearOropus is a place calledGraea, and also thesanctuary ofAmphiaraus, and the monument ofNarcissus theEretrian, which is called "Sigelus's," because people pass it in silence. Some say thatGraea is the same asTanagra.PoemandrisTanagraean territory; and theTanagraeans are also calledGephyraeans. Thesanctuary ofAmphiaraus was transferred hither in accordance with an oracle from theThebanCnopia.
§ 9.2.11 AlsoMycalessus, a village, is in theTanagraean territory. It is situated on the road that leads fromThebes toChalcis; and in theBoeotian dialect it is calledMycalettus. AndHarma is likewise in theTanagraean territory; it is a deserted village nearMycalettus, and received its name from the chariot ofAmphiaraus, and is a different place from theHarma inAttica, which is nearPhyle, a deme ofAttica bordering onTanagra. Here originated the proverb, "when the lightning flashes throughHarma"; for those who are called thePythaistae look in the general direction ofHarma, in accordance with an oracle, and note any flash of lightning in that direction, and then, when they see the lightning flash, take the offering toDelphi. They would keep watch for three months, for three days and nights each month, from the altar ofZeusAstrapaeus; this altar is within the walls between thePythium and theOlympium. In regard to theHarma inBoeotia, some say thatAmphiaraus fell in the battle out of his chariot near the place where his sanctuary now is, and that the chariot was drawn empty to the place which bears the same name; others say that the chariot ofAdrastus, when he was in flight, was smashed to pieces there, but thatAdrastus safely escaped onAreion. ButPhilochorus says thatAdrastus was saved by the inhabitants of the village, and that on this account they obtained equal rights of citizenship from theArgives.
§ 9.2.12 To anyone returning fromThebes toArgos,Tanagra is on the left; and . . . is situated on the right. AndHyria, also, belongs to theTanagraean territory now, though in earlier times it belonged to theTheban territory.Hyria is the scene of the myth ofHyrieus, and of the birth ofOrion, of whichPindar speaks in his dithyrambs; it is situated nearAulis. Some say thatHysiae is calledHyria, belonging to the Parasopian country belowCithaeron, nearErythrae, in the interior, and that it is a colony of theHyrieans and was founded byNycteus, the father ofAntiope. There is also aHysiae in theArgive territory, a village; and its inhabitants are calledHysiatae. TheErythrae inIonia is a colony of thisErythrae. AndHeleon, also, is a village belonging toTanagra, having been so named from the "hele."
§ 9.2.13 AfterSalganeus one comes toAnthedon, a city with a harbor; and it is the last city on that part of theBoeotian seaboard which is opposite toEuboea, as the poet says, "Anthedon at the extremity." As one proceeds a little farther, however, there are still two small towns belonging to theBoeotians:Larymna, near which theCephissus empties, and, still farther on,Halae, which bears the same name as theAttic demes. Opposite this seaboard is situated, it is said, theAegae inEuboea, in which is the sanctuary of theAegaeanPoseidon, which I have mentioned before. The distance across the strait fromAnthedon toAegae is one hundred and twenty stadia, but from the other places it is much less. The sanctuary is situated on a high mountain, where there was once a city. AndOrobiae also is nearAegae. In theAnthedonian territory is MountMessapius, named afterMessapus, who, when he came intoIapygia, called the countryMessapia. Here, too, is the scene of the myth ofGlaucus, theAnthedonian, who is said to have changed into a sea-monster.
§ 9.2.14 NearAnthedon, and belonging toBoeotia, is a place that is esteemed sacred, and contains traces of a city,Isus, as it is called, with the first syllable pronounced short. Some, however, think that the verse should be written, "sacredIsus andAnthedon at the extremity," lengthening the first syllable by poetic licence on account of the meter, instead of "sacredNisa," forNisa is nowhere to be seen inBoeotia, asApollodorus says in his work On Ships; so thatNisa could not be the correct reading, unless by "Nisa" the poet means "Isus"; for there was a cityNisa bearing the same name in the territory ofMegara, whose inhabitants emigrated to the foothills ofCithaeron, but it has now disappeared. Some, however, think that we should write "sacredCreusa," taking the poet to mean theCreusa of today, the naval station of theThespians, which is situated in theCrisaean Gulf; but others think that we should read "sacredPharae."Pharae is one of the "Four United Villages" in the neighborhood ofTanagra, which are:Heleon,Harma,Mycalessus, andPharae. And still others write as follows: "sacredNysa." AndNysa is a village inHelicon. Such, then, is the seaboard facingEuboea.
§ 9.2.15 The plains in the interior, which come next in order, are hollows, and are surrounded everywhere on the remaining sides by mountains; by the mountains ofAttica on the south, and on the north by the mountains ofPhocis; and, on the west,Cithaeron inclines, obliquely, a little above theCrisaean Sea; it begins contiguous with the mountains ofMegara andAttica, and then bends into the plains, terminating in the neighborhood ofThebes.
§ 9.2.16 Some of these plains are marshy, since rivers spread out over them, though other rivers fall into them and later find a way out; other plains are dried up, and on account of their fertility are tilled in all kinds of ways. But since the depths of the earth are full of caverns and holes, it has often happened that violent earthquakes have blocked up some of the passages, and also opened up others, some up to the surface of the earth and others through underground channels. The result for the waters, therefore, is that some of the streams flow through underground channels, whereas others flow on the surface of the earth, thus forming lakes and rivers. And when the channels in the depths of the earth are stopped up, it comes to pass that the lakes expand as far as the inhabited places, so that they swallow up both cities and districts, and that when the same channels, or others, are opened up, these cities and districts are uncovered; and that the same regions at one time are traversed in boats and at another on foot, and the same cities at one time are situated on the lake and at another far away from it.
§ 9.2.17 One of two things has taken place: either the cities have remained unremoved, when the increase in the waters has been insufficient to overflow the dwellings because of their elevation, or else they have been abandoned and rebuilt elsewhere, when, being oftentimes endangered by their nearness to the lake, they have relieved themselves from fear by changing to districts farther away or higher up. And it follows that the cities thus rebuilt which have kept the same name, though at first called by names truly applying to them, derived from local circumstances, have names which no longer truly apply to them; for instance, it is probable that "Plataeae" was so called from the "blade" of the oars, and "Plataeans" were those who made their living from rowing; but now, since they live far away from the lake, the name can no longer truly apply to them.Helos andHeleon andHeilesium were so called because they were situated near marshes; but now the case is different with these places, since they have been rebuilt elsewhere, or else the lake has been greatly reduced because of outflows that later took place; for this is possible.
§ 9.2.18 This is best shown by theCephissus, which fills lakeCopais; for when the lake had increased so much thatCopae was in danger of being swallowed up (Copae is named by the poet, and from it the lake took its name), a rent in the earth, which was formed by the lake nearCopae, opened up a subterranean channel about thirty stadia in length and admitted the river; and then the river burst forth to the surface nearLarymna inLocris; I mean the Upper Larymna, for there is anotherLarymna, which I have already mentioned, theBoeotianLarymna on the sea, to which the Romans annexed the Upper Larymna. The place is calledAnchoe; and there is also a lake of the same name. And when it leaves this lake theCephissus at last flows out to the sea. Now at that time, when the flooding of the lake ceased, there was also a cessation of danger to those who lived near it, except in the case of the cities which had already been swallowed up. And though the subterranean channels filled up again,Crates the mining engineer ofChalcis ceased clearing away the obstructions because of party strife among theBoeotians, although, as he himself says in the letter toAlexander, many places had already been drained. Among these places, some writers suppose, was the ancient site ofOrchomenus, and others, those ofEleusis andAthens on theTriton River. These cities, it is said, were founded byCecrops, when he ruled overBoeotia, then calledOgygia, but were later wiped out by inundations. And it is said that a fissure in the earth opened up nearOrchomenus, also, and that it admitted theMelas River, which flowed through the territory ofHaliartus and formed there the marsh which produces the reed that is used for flutes. But this river has completely disappeared, either because it is dispersed by the fissure into invisible channels or because it is used up beforehand by the marshes and lakes in the neighborhood ofHaliartus, from which the poet calls the place "grassy," when he says, "and grassyHaliartus."
§ 9.2.19 Now these rivers flow down from thePhocian mountains, and among them theCephissus, which takes its beginning atLilaea, aPhocian city, asHomer says: "And those who heldLilaea, at the sources ofCephissus." And flowing throughElateia, the largest of the cities ofPhocis, and throughParapotamii andPhanoteus, which are likewisePhocian towns, it goes on intoChaeroneia inBoeotia, and then through the territories ofOrchomenus andCoroneia, and discharges into LakeCopais. And also thePermessus and theOlmeius, flowing fromHelicon, meet one another and fall into the same LakeCopais nearHaliartus; and also other streams empty into it. Now it is a large lake, having a circuit of three hundred and eighty stadia, but its outlets are nowhere to be seen, except for the fissure which admits theCephissus, and for the marshes.
§ 9.2.20 Among the neighboring lakes are LakeTrephia and the Cephissian Lake, which is also mentioned by the poet: "Who dwelt inHyle, strongly intent upon wealth, on the shore of the Cephissian Lake." For he does not mean LakeCopais, as some think, but lakeHylice (accented on the last syllable like lyrice), which is named after the village near by that is calledHyle (accented like lyra and thyra), not Hyde, as some write, "who dwelt in Hyde." For Hyde is inLydia, "below snowyTmolus in the fertile land of Hyde," whereasHyle is inBoeotia; at any rate, the poet appends to the words, "on the shore of the Cephissian lake," the words, "and near him dwelt the rest of theBoeotians." For LakeCopais is large, and not in the territory ofThebes; whereas the other is small, and is filled from lakeCopais through subterranean channels; and it is situated betweenThebes andAnthedon.Homer, however, uses the word in the singular number, at one time making the first syllable long, as in theCatalogue, "andHyle andPeteon", by poetic licence, and at another making it short, "who dwelt inHyle," and "Tychius . . ., by far the best of leather workers, who had his home inHyle." And certain critics are not correct in writing Hyde here, either; forAias was not sending to fetch his shield fromLydia.
§ 9.2.21 These lakes suggest the order of the places that come next after them, so that nominally their positions are clearly determined, because the poet observes no order in naming the places, whether those that are worthy of mention or those that are not. But it is difficult, in naming so many places, most of them insignificant and situated in the interior, to avoid error in every case in the matter of their order. The seaboard, however, has a certain advantage with regard to this: the places there are better known; and, too, the sea more readily suggests the order of places. Therefore I, too, shall try to take my beginnings from the seaboard, although at present I shall disregard this intention, and following the poet shall make my enumeration of the places, adding everything taken from other writers, but omitted by him, that may be useful to us. He begins atHyria andAulis, concerning which I have already spoken.
§ 9.2.22 Schoenus is a district of theTheban territory on the road that leads fromThebes toAnthedon, and is about fifty stadia distant fromThebes; and there is also a riverSchoenus which flows through it.
§ 9.2.23 Scolus is a village in the Parasopian country at the foot of MountCithaeron, a place that is rugged and hardly habitable; whence the proverb, "neither go toScolus thyself nor follow another thither." And this is also said to be the place from whichPentheus was brought when he was torn to pieces. And there was anotherScolus among the cities in the neighborhood ofOlynthus bearing the same name as this village. And, as I have already said, there is also in theTrachinianHeracleia a village calledParasopii, past which flows a RiverAsopus; and inSikyonia there is anotherAsopus River, and also the countryAsopia, through which thatAsopus flows; and there are also other rivers which bear this name.
§ 9.2.24 The name "Eteonus" was changed to "Scarphe," andScarphe too is in Parasopia; for theAsopus and theIsmenus flow through the plain which is in front ofThebes. And there is the spring calledDirce; and alsoPotniae, where is the scene of the myth ofGlaucus ofPotniae, who was torn to pieces by the Potnian mares near the city.Cithaeron, also, ends not far fromThebes. TheAsopus flows past it, washing its foothills and causing the division of theParasopii into several settlements; and all the settlements are subject toThebes, though another set of writers say thatScolus,Eteonus, andErythrae are in the territory of thePlataeans, for the river flows pastPlataea, also, and empties nearTanagra. And in the territory ofThebes are alsoTherapnae andTeumessus, which latterAntimachus has adorned with praise in many verses, although he enumerates goodly attributes which do not belong to it, as, for instance, "there is a windy little hill"; but the verses are well known.
§ 9.2.25 The "Thespiae" of today is byAntimachus spelled "Thespeia"; for there are many names of places which are used in both ways, both in the singular and in the plural, just as there are many which are used both in the masculine and in the feminine, whereas there are others which are used in either one or the other number only.Thespiae is a city near Mt.Helicon, lying somewhat to the south of it; and both it andHelicon are situated on theCrisaean Gulf. It has a seaportCreusa, also calledCreusis. In theThespian territory, in the part lying towardsHelicon, isAscre, the native city ofHesiod; it is situated on the right ofHelicon, on a high and rugged place, and is about forty stadia distant fromThespiae. This cityHesiod himself has satirized in verses which allude to his father, because at an earlier time his father changed his abode to this place from theAeolianCyme, saying: "And he settled nearHelicon in a wretched village,Ascre, which is bad in winter, oppressive in summer, and pleasant at no time."Helicon is contiguous toPhocis in its northerly parts, and to a slight extent also in its westerly parts, in the region of the last harbor belonging toPhocis, the harbor which, from the fact in the case, is calledMychus (inmost depth); for, speaking generally, it is above this harbor of theCrisaean Gulf thatHelicon andAscre, and alsoThespiae and its seaportCreusa, are situated. This is also considered the deepest recess of theCrisaean Gulf, and in general of theCorinthian Gulf. The length of the coastline from the harborMychus toCreusa is ninety stadia; and the length fromCreusa as far as the promontory calledHolmiae is one hundred and twenty; and hencePagae andOinoe, of which I have already spoken, are situated in the deepest recess of the gulf. NowHelicon, not far distant fromParnassus, rivals it both in height and in circuit; for both are rocky and covered with snow, and their circuit comprises no large extent of territory. Here are thesanctuary of the Muses andHippu-crene and thecave of the nymphs called theLeibethrides; and from this fact one might infer that those who consecratedHelicon to theMuses wereThracians, the same who dedicatedPieris andLeibethrum andPimpleia to the same goddesses. TheThracians used to be calledPieres, but, now that they have disappeared, theMacedonians hold these places. It has been said thatThracians once settled in this part ofBoeotia, having overpowered theBoeotians, as did alsoPelasgians and other barbarians. Now in earlier timesThespiae was well known because of theEros ofPraxiteles, which was sculptured by him and dedicated byGlycera the courtesan (she had received it as a gift from the artist) to theThespians, since she was a native of the place. Now in earlier times travellers would go up toThespeia, a city otherwise not worth seeing, to see theEros; and at present it andTanagra are the onlyBoeotian cities that still endure; but of all the rest only ruins and names are left.
§ 9.2.26 AfterThespiaeHomer namesGraea andMycalessus, concerning which I have already spoken. He likewise says concerning the rest: "And those who lived aboutHarma andHeilesium andErythrae, and those who heldEleon andHyle andPeteon."Peteon is a village in theTheban territory near the road toAnthedon.Ocalea is midway betweenHaliartus andAlalcomenium, thirty stadia distant from each; and a river bearing the same name flows past it. ThePhocianMedeon is on theCrisaean Gulf, at a distance of one hundred and sixty stadia fromBoeotia, whereas theBoeotianMedeon, which was named after it, is nearOnchestus at the base of the mountain Phoenicius; and from this fact its name has been changed toPhoenicis. This mountain is also called a part of theTheban territory; but by some bothMedeon andOcalea are called a part of the territory ofHaliartus.
§ 9.2.27 Homer then goes on to say: "Copae, andEutresis, andThisbe abounding in doves." ConcerningCopae I have already spoken. It lies towards the north on LakeCopais; and the others around the lake are these:Acraephiae,Phoenicis,Onchestus,Haliartus,Ocalea,Alalcomenae,Tilphusium,Coroneia. In early times, at least, the lake had no common name, but was called by different names corresponding to the several settlements lying on it, as, for instance,Copais fromCopae, Haliartis fromHaliartus, and so in the case of the rest of the settlements; but later the whole lake was calledCopais, this name prevailing over all others; for the region ofCopae forms the deepest recess of the lake.Pindar calls this lake Cephissis; at any rate, he places near it the springTilphossa, which flows at the foot of MountTilphossius nearHaliartus andAlalcomenae, near which latter is thetomb ofTeiresias; and here, too, is the sanctuary of theTilphossianApollo.
§ 9.2.28 Next in order afterCopaeHomer namesEutresis, a small village of theThespians, whereZethus andAmphion are said to have lived before they reigned overThebes.Thisbe is now calledThisbae; the place is inhabited and is situated slightly above the sea, bordering on the territory of theThespians and on that ofCoroneia; and it, too, lies at the foot ofHelicon on the south; and it has a seaport situated on a rocky place, which abounds in doves, in reference to which the poet says, "Thisbe abounding in doves." From here toSikyon is a voyage of one hundred and sixty stadia.
§ 9.2.29 NextHomer namesCoroneia,Haliartus,Plataeae, andGlissas. NowCoroneia is situated on a height nearHelicon. TheBoeotians took possession of it on their return from theThessalianArne after theTrojan War, at which time they also occupiedOrchomenus. And when they got the mastery ofCoroneia, they built in the plain before the city thesanctuary of the ItonianAthena, bearing the same name as theThessaliansanctuary; and they called the river which flowed past itCuarius, giving it the same name as theThessalian river. ButAlcaeus calls itCoralius, when he says, "Athena, warrior queen, who dost keep watch o'er the cornfields ofCoroneia before thytemple on the banks of theCoralius River." Here, too, the Pamboeotian Festival used to be celebrated. And for some mystic reason, as they say, a statue ofHades was dedicated along with that ofAthena. Now the people inCoroneia are called Coronii, whereas those in theMessenianCoroneia are called Coronaeis.
§ 9.2.30 Haliartus is no longer in existence, having been razed to the ground in the war againstPerseus; and the country is held by theAthenians, a gift from the Romans. It was situated in a narrow place, between the mountain situated above it and LakeCopais, near thePermessus andOlmeius Rivers and the marsh that produces the flute reed.
§ 9.2.31 Plataeae, whichHomer speaks of in the singular number, is at the foot ofCithaeron, between it andThebes, along the road that leads toAthens andMegara, on the confines ofAttica andMegaris; forEleutherae is near by, which some say belongs toAttica, others toBoeotia. I have already said that theAsopus flows pastPlataeae. Here it was that the forces of the Greeks completely wiped outMardonius and his three hundred thousandPersians; and they built a sanctuary ofZeusEleutherius, and instituted the athletic games in which the victor received a crown, calling them theEleutheria. And tombs of those who died in the battle, erected at public expense, are still to be seen. InSikyonia, also, there is a deme called Plataeae, the home ofMnasalces the poet: "The tomb ofMnasalces the Plataean."Homer speaks ofGlissas, a settlement in the mountainHypatus, which is in theTheban country nearTeumessus andCadmeia. The hillocks below which lies theAonian Plain, as it is called, which extends from theHypatus mountain toThebes, are called "Dria."
§ 9.2.32 In these words of the poet, "and those who heldHypothebes," some take him to mean some little city calledHypothebes, othersPotniae; forThebes, the latter say, was deserted because of the expedition of theEpigoni and had no part in theTrojan War. The former, however, say that theThebans indeed had a part in the war, but that they were living in the level districts belowCadmeia at that time, since they were unable to rebuildCadmeia; and sinceCadmeia was calledThebes, they add, the poet called theThebans of that time "Hypothebans" instead of "people who live belowCadmeia."
§ 9.2.33 Onchestus is where theAmphictyonic Council used to convene, in the territory ofHaliartus near LakeCopais and theTeneric Plain; it is situated on a height, is bare of trees, and has a sacred Precinct ofPoseidon, which is also bare of trees. But the poets embellish things, calling all sacred precincts "sacred groves," even if they are bare of trees. Such, also, is the saying ofPindar concerningApollo: "stirred, he traversed both land and sea, and halted on great lookouts above mountains, and whirled great stones, laying foundations of sacred groves." ButAlcaeus is wrong, for just as he perverted the name of the RiverCuarius, so he falsified the position ofOnchestus, placing it near the extremities ofHelicon, although it is at quite a distance from this mountain.
§ 9.2.34 TheTeneric Plain is named afterTenerus. In myth he was the son ofApollo byMelia, and was a prophet of theoracle on thePtous Mountain, which the same poet calls three-peaked: "and once he took possession of the three-peaked hollow ofPtous." And he callsTenerus "temple minister, prophet, called by the same name as the plains." ThePtous lies above theTeneric Plain and LakeCopais nearAcraephium. Both the oracle and the mountain belonged to theThebans. AndAcraephium itself also lies on a height. They say that this is calledArne by the poet, the same name as theThessalian city.
§ 9.2.35 Some say thatArne too was swallowed up by the lake, as well asMideia.Zenodotus, who writes "and those who possessedAscre rich in vineyards," seems not to have read the statements ofHesiod concerning his native land, nor those ofEudoxus, who says much worse things concerningAscre. For how could anyone believe that such a place was called "rich in vineyards" by the poet? Wrong, also, are those who write "Tarne" instead of "Arne"; for not a single place namedTarne is pointed out among theBoeotians, though there is one among theLydians, and this the poet mentions: "Idomeneus then slewPhaestus, son ofBorus theMaeonian, who came from fertileTarne." The remainingBoeotian cities concerning which it is worthwhile to make mention are: of those situated round the lake,Alalcomenae andTilphossium, and, of the rest,Chaeroneia,Lebadeia, andLeuctra.
§ 9.2.36 Now as forAlalcomenae, the poet mentions it, but not in theCatalogue: "ArgiveHera andAlalcomenianAthena." It has an ancient sanctuary ofAthena which is held in great honor; and they say, at least, that the goddess was born there, just asHera was born inArgos, and that it was because of this that the poet named them both in this way, as natives of these places. And it was because of this, perhaps, that he did not mention in theCatalogue the men ofAlalcomenae, since, being sacred, they were excused from the expedition. And in fact the city always continued unravaged, although it was neither large nor situated in a secure position, but in a plain. But all peoples, since they revered the goddess, held aloof from any violence towards the inhabitants, so that when theThebans, at the time of the expedition of theEpigonoi, left their city, they are said to have fled for refuge toAlalcomenae, and toTilphossius, the mountain, a natural stronghold that lies above it; and at the base of this mountain is a spring calledTilphossa, and the monument ofTeiresias, who died there at the time of the flight.
§ 9.2.37 Chaeroneia is nearOrchomenus. It was here thatPhilip the son ofAmyntas conquered theAthenians,Boeotians, andCorinthians in a great battle, and set himself up as lord of Greece. And here, too, are to be seen tombs of those who fell in the battle, tombs erected at public expense. And it was in the same region that the Romans so completely defeated the forces ofMithridates, many tens of thousands in number, that only a few escaped in safety to the sea and fled in their ships, whereas the rest either perished or were taken captive.
§ 9.2.38 AtLebadeia is situated anoracle of TrophonianZeus. The oracle has a descent into the earth consisting of an underground chasm; and the person who consults the oracle descends into it himself. It is situated between Mt.Helicon andChaeroneia, nearCoroneia.
§ 9.2.39 Leuctra is the place whereEpameinondas defeated theLacedemonians in a great battle and found a beginning of his overthrow of them; for after that time they were never again able to regain the hegemony of the Greeks which they formerly held, and especially because they also fared badly in the second clash nearMantineia. However, although they had suffered such reverses, they continued to avoid being subject to others until the Roman conquest. And among the Romans, also, they have continued to be held in honor because of the excellence of their government. This place is to be seen on the road that leads fromPlataeae toThespiae.
§ 9.2.40 Next the poet gives the catalogue of theOrchomenians, whom he separates from theBoeotian tribe. He callsOrchomenus "Minyeian," after the tribe of theMinyae. They say that some of theMinyae emigrated from there toIolcus, and that from this fact theArgonauts were calledMinyae. Clearly it was in early times both a rich and very powerful city. Now to its wealthHomer also is a witness, for when enumerating the places that abounded in wealth he says: "Nor yet all that comes toOrchomenus nor all that comes toEgyptianThebes." And of its power there is this proof, that theThebans were wont to pay tribute to theOrchomenians and toErginus their tyrant, who is said to have been put to death byHeracles.Eteocles, one of those who reigned as king atOrchomenus, who founded a sanctuary of theGraces, was the first to display both wealth and power; for he honored these goddesses either because he was successful in receivingGraces, or in giving them, or both. For necessarily, when he had become naturally inclined to kindly deeds, he began doing honor to these goddesses; and therefore he already possessed this power; but in addition he also had to have money, for neither could anyone give much if he did not have much, nor could anyone have much if he did not receive much. But if he has both together, he has the reciprocal giving and receiving; for the vessel that is at the same time being emptied and filled is always full for use; but he who gives and does not receive could not succeed in either, for he will stop giving because his treasury fails; also the givers will stop giving to him who receives only and grants no favours; and therefore he could not succeed in either way. And like things might be said concerning power. Apart from the common saying, "money is the most valuable thing to men, and it has the most power of all things among men," we should look into the subject in detail. We say that kings have the greatest power; and on this account we call them potentates. They are potent in leading the multitudes whither they wish, through persuasion or force. Generally they persuade through kindness, for persuasion through words is not kingly; indeed, this belongs to the orator, whereas we call it kingly persuasion when kings win and attract men whither they wish by kindly deeds. They persuade men, it is true, through kindly deeds, but they force them by means of arms. Both these things may be bought with money; for he has the largest army who is able to support the largest, and he who possesses the most means is also able to show the most kindness. They say that the place now occupied by LakeCopais was formerly dry ground, and that it was tilled in all kinds of ways when it was subject to theOrchomenians, who lived near it. And this fact, accordingly, is adduced as an evidence of their wealth.
§ 9.2.41 Aspledon was by some called Spledon, without the first syllable. Then the name, both of it and of the country, was changed toEudeielos, perhaps because, from its "evening" inclination, it offered a special advantage peculiar to its inhabitants, especially the mildness of its winters; for the two ends of the day are coldest; and of these the evening is colder than the morning, for as night approaches the cold is more intense, and as night retires it abates. But the sun is a means of mitigating the cold. The place, therefore, that is warmed most by the sun at the coldest time is mildest in winter.Eudeielos is twenty stadia distant fromOrchomenus. And the RiverMelas is between them.
§ 9.2.42 Above theOrchomenian territory liesPanopeus, aPhocian city, and alsoHyampolis. And bordering on these isOpus, the metropolis of theEpicnemidian Locrians. Now in earlier timesOrchomenus was situated on a plain, they say, but when the waters overflowed, the inhabitants migrated up to the mountainAcontius, which extends for a distance of sixty stadia toParapotamii inPhocis. And they relate that theAchaeans inPontus, as they are called, are a colony ofOrchomenians who wandered there withIalmenus after the capture ofTroy. There was also anOrchomenus in the neighborhood ofCarystus. Those who have written concerning the Ships have supplied us well with such materials, and are the writers we follow when they say things appropriate to the purpose of our work.
§ 9.3.1 Phocis AfterBoeotia andOrchomenus one comes toPhocis; it stretches towards the north alongsideBoeotia, nearly from sea to sea; it did so in early times, at least, for in those timesDaphnus belonged toPhocis, splittingLocris into two parts and being placed by geographers midway between theOpuntian Gulf and the coast of theEpicnemidians. The country now belongs to theLocrians (the town has been razed to the ground), so that even herePhocis no longer extends as far as theEuboean Sea, though it does border on theCrisaean Gulf. ForCrisa itself belongs toPhocis, being situated by the sea itself and so doCirrha andAnticyra and the places which lie in the interior and contiguous to them nearParnassus — I meanDelphi,Cirphis, andDaulis — andParnassus itself which belongs toPhocis and forms its boundary on its western side. In the same way asPhocis lies alongsideBoeotia, so alsoLocris lies alongsidePhocis on either side; forLocris is double, being divided into two parts byParnassus, the part on the western side lying alongsideParnassus and occupying a part of it, and extending to theCrisaean Gulf, whereas the part on the side towards the east ends at theEuboean Sea. The Westerners are calledLocrians andOzolae; and they have the starHesperus engraved on their public seal. The other division of inhabitants is itself also divided, in a way, into two parts: theOpuntians, named after their metropolis, whose territory borders onPhocis andBoeotia, and theEpicnemidians, named after a mountain calledCnemis, who are next to theOitaeans andMalians. In the middle between both, I mean the Westerners and the other division, isParnassus, extending lengthwise into the northerly part of the country, from the region ofDelphi as far as the junction of theOitaean and theAitolian mountains, and the country of theDorians which lies in the middle between them. For again, just asLocris, being double, lies alongsidePhocis, so also the country of theOitaeans together withAitolia and with certain places of theDorian Tetrapolis, which lie in the middle between them, lie alongside either part ofLocris and alongsideParnassus and the country of theDorians. Immediately above these are theThessalians, the northerlyAitolians, theAcarnanians, and some of theEpeirote andMacedonian tribes. As I was saying before, one should think of the aforementioned countries as ribbon-like stretches, so to speak, extending parallel to one another from the west towards the east. The whole ofParnassus is esteemed as sacred, since it has caves and other places that are held in honor and deemed holy. Of these the best known and most beautiful isCorycium, a cave of the nymphs bearing the same name as that inCilicia. Of the sides ofParnassus, the western is occupied by theOzolian Locrians and by some of theDorians and by theAitolians who live near theAitolian mountain calledCorax; whereas the other side is occupied byPhocians and by the majority of theDorians, who occupy the Tetrapolis, which in a general way lies roundParnassus, but widens out in its parts that face the east. Now the long sides of each of the aforementioned countries and ribbon-like stretches are all parallel, one side being towards the north and the other towards the south; but as for the remaining sides, the western are not parallel to the eastern; neither are the two coastlines, where the countries of these tribes end, I mean that of theCrisaean Gulf as far asActium and that facingEuboea as far asThessaloniceia, parallel to one another. But one should conceive of the geometrical figures of these regions as though several lines were drawn in a triangle parallel to the base, for the figures thus marked off will be parallel to one another, and they will have their opposite long sides parallel, but as for the short sides this is no longer the case. This, then, is my rough sketch of the country that remains to be traversed and is next in order. Let me now describe each separate part in order, beginning withPhocis.
§ 9.3.2 OfPhocis two cities are the most famous,Delphi andElateia.Delphi, because of the sanctuary of thePythianApollo, and because of the oracle, which is ancient, sinceAgamemnon is said by the poet to have had an oracle given him from there; for the minstrel is introduced as singing "the quarrel ofOdysseus andAchilles, son ofPeleus, how once they strove . . ., andAgamemnon, lord of men, rejoiced at heart . . ., for thusPhoebus Apollo, in giving response to him atPytho, had told him that it should be."Delphi, I say, is famous because of these things, butElateia, because it is the largest of all the cities there, and has the most advantageous position, because it is situated in the narrow passes and because he who holds this city holds the passes leading intoPhocis andBoeotia. For, first, there are theOitaean Mountains; and then those of theLocrians andPhocians, which are not everywhere passable to invaders fromThessaly, but have passes, both narrow and separated from one another, which are guarded by the adjacent cities; and the result is, that when these cities are captured, their captors master the passes also. But since the fame of the sanctuary atDelphi has the priority of age, and since at the same time the position of its places suggests a natural beginning (for these are the most westerly parts ofPhocis), I should begin my description there.
§ 9.3.3 As I have already said,Parnassus is situated on the western boundaries ofPhocis. Of this mountain, then, the side towards the west is occupied by theOzolian Locrians, whereas the southern is occupied byDelphi, a rocky place, theatre-like, having the oracle and the city on its summit, and filling a circuit of sixteen stadia. Situated aboveDelphi isLycoreia, on which place, above thesanctuary, theDelphians were established in earlier times. But now they live close to the sanctuary, round theCastalian fountain. Situated in front of the city, toward the south, isCirphis, a precipitous mountain, which leaves in the intervening space a ravine, through which flows thePleistus River. BelowCirphis liesCirrha, an ancient city, situated by the sea; and from it there is an ascent toDelphi of about eighty stadia. It is situated oppositeSikyon. In front ofCirrha lies the fertileCrisaean Plain; for again one comes next in order to another city,Crisa, from which theCrisaean Gulf is named. Then toAnticyra, bearing the same name as thecity on theMaliac Gulf nearOita. And, in truth, they say that it is in the latter region that the hellebore of fine quality is produced, though that produced in the former is better prepared, and on this account many people resort thither to be purged and cured; for in thePhocianAnticyra, they add, grows a sesame-like medicinal plant with which theOitaean hellebore is prepared.
§ 9.3.4 NowAnticyra still endures, butCirrha andCrisa have been destroyed, the former earlier, by theCrisaeans, andCrisa itself later, byEurylochus theThessalian, at the time of theCrisaean War. For theCrisaeans, already prosperous because of the duties levied on importations fromSicily andItaly, proceeded to impose harsh taxes on those who came to visit the sanctuary, even contrary to the decrees of theAmphictyons. And the same thing also happened in the case of theAmphissians, who belonged to theOzolian Locrians. For these too, coming over, not only restoredCrisa and proceeded to put under cultivation again the plain which had been consecrated by theAmphictyons, but were worse in their dealings with foreigners than theCrisaeans of old had been. Accordingly, theAmphictyons punished these too, and gave the territory back to the god: The sanctuary, too, has been much neglected, though in earlier times it was held in exceedingly great honor. Clear proofs of this are the treasure houses, built both by peoples and by potentates, in which they deposited not only money which they had dedicated to the god, but also works of the best artists; and also thePythian games, and the great number of the recorded oracles.
§ 9.3.5 They say that theseat of the oracle is a cave that is hollowed out deep down in the earth, with a rather narrow mouth, from which arises breath that inspires a divine frenzy; and that over the mouth is placed a high tripod, mounting which thePythian priestess receives the breath and then utters oracles in both verse and prose, though the latter too are put into verse by poets who are in the service of the sanctuary. They say that the first to becomePythia wasPhemonoe; and that both the prophetess and the city were so called from the word pythesthai," though the first syllable was lengthened, as in athanatos, akamatos, and diakonos. Now the following is the idea which leads to the founding of cities and to the holding of common sanctuaries in high esteem: men came together by cities and by tribes, because they naturally tend to hold things in common, and at the same time because of their need of one another; and they met at the sacred places that were common to them for the same reasons, holding festivals and general assemblies; for everything of this kind tends to friendship, beginning with eating at the same table, drinking libations together, and lodging under the same roof; and the greater the number of the sojourners and the greater the number of the places whence they came, the greater was thought to be the use of their coming together.
§ 9.3.6 Now although the greatest share of honor was paid to thissanctuary because of its oracle, since of all oracles in the world it had the repute of being the most truthful, yet the position of the place added something. For it is almost in the center of Greece taken as a whole, between the country inside theIsthmus and that outside it; and it was also believed to be in the center of the inhabited world, and people called it the navel of the earth, in addition fabricating a myth, which is told byPindar, that the twoeagles (some saycrows) which had been set free byZeus met there, one coming from the west and the other from the east. There is also a kind of navel to be seen in thesanctuary; it is draped with fillets, and on it are the two likenesses of the birds of the myth.
§ 9.3.7 Such being the advantages of the site ofDelphi, the people easily came together there, and especially those who lived near it. And indeed theAmphictyonic League was organized from the latter, both to deliberate concerning common affairs and to keep the superintendence of the sanctuary more in common, because much money and many votive offerings were deposited there, requiring great vigilance and holiness. Now the facts of olden times are unknown, but among the names recordedAcrisius is reputed to have been the first to administer theAmphictyony and to determine the cities that were to have a part in the council and to give a vote to each city, to one city separately or to another jointly with a second or with several, and also to proclaim theAmphictyonic Rights — all the rights that cities have in their dealings with cities. Later there were several other administrations, until this organization, like that of theAchaeans, was dissolved. Now the first cities which came together are said to have been twelve, and each sent a Pylagoras, the assembly convening twice a year, in spring and in late autumn; but later still more cities were added. They called the assemblyPylaea, both that of spring and that of late autumn, since they convened atPylae, which is also calledThermopylae; and thePylagorae sacrificed toDemeter. Now although at the outset only the people who lived near by had a share both in these things and in the oracle, later the people living at a distance also came and consulted the oracle and sent gifts and built treasure houses, as, for instance,Croesus, and his fatherAlyattes, and some of the Italiotes, and theSicilians.
§ 9.3.8 But wealth inspires envy, and is therefore difficult to guard, even if it is sacred. At present, certainly, thesanctuary at Delphi is very poor, at least so far as money is concerned; but as for the votive offerings, although some of them have been carried off, most of them still remain. In earlier times the sanctuary was very wealthy, asHomer states: "nor yet all the things which the stone threshold of the archerPhoebus Apollo enclosed in rockyPytho." The treasure houses clearly indicate its wealth, and also the plundering done by thePhocians, which kindled thePhocian War, or Sacred War, as it is called. Now this plundering took place in the time ofPhilip, the son ofAmyntas, although writers have a notion of another and earlier plundering, in ancient times, in which the wealth mentioned byHomer was carried out of the sanctuary. For, they add, not so much as a trace of it was saved down to those later times in whichOnomarchus and his army, andPhayllus and his army, robbed the sanctuary; but the wealth then carried away was more recent than that mentioned byHomer; for there were deposited in treasure houses offerings dedicated from spoils of war, preserving inscriptions on which were included the names of those who dedicated them; for instance,Gyges,Croesus, theSybarites, and theSpinetae who lived near theAdriatic, and so with the rest. And it would not be reasonable to suppose that the treasures of olden times were mixed up with these, as indeed is clearly indicated by other places that were ransacked by these men. Some, however, taking "aphetor" to mean "treasure-house," and "threshold of the aphetor" to mean "underground repository of the treasure-house," say that that wealth was buried in the sanctuary, and thatOnomarchus and his army attempted to dig it up by night, but since great earthquakes took place they fled outside the sanctuary and stopped their digging, and that their experience inspired all others with fear of making a similar attempt.
§ 9.3.9 Of the temples, the one "with wings" must be placed among the myths; the second is said to be the work ofTrophonius andAgamedes; and the present temple was built by theAmphictyons. In the sacred precinct is to be seen thetomb ofNeoptolemus, which was made in accordance with an oracle,Machaereus, aDelphian, having slain him because, according to the myth, he was asking the god for redress for the murder of his father; but according to all probability it was because he had attacked the sanctuary.Branchus, who presided over the sanctuary atDidyma, is called a descendant ofMachaereus.
§ 9.3.10 As for the contests atDelphi, there was one in early times between citharoedes, who sang a paean in honor of the god; it was instituted by theDelphians. But after theCrisaean war, in the time ofEurylochus, theAmphictyons instituted equestrian and gymnastic contests in which the prize was a crown, and called themPythian games. And to the citharoedes they added both fluteplayers and citharists who played without singing, who were to render a certain melody which is called thePythian Nome. There are five parts of it: angkrousis, ampeira, katakeleusmos, iambi and dactyli, and syringes. Now the melody was composed byTimosthenes, the admiral of the secondPtolemy, who also compiled The Harbours, a work in ten books; and through this melody he means to celebrate the contest betweenApollo and the dragon, setting forth the prelude as anakrousis, the first onset of the contest as ampeira, the contest itself as katakeleusmos, the triumph following the victory as iambus and dactylus, the rhythms being in two measures, one of which, the dactyl, is appropriate to hymns of praise, whereas the other, the iamb, is suited to reproaches (compare the word "iambize"), and the expiration of the dragon as syrinxes, since with syrinx players imitated the dragon as breathing its last in hissings.
§ 9.3.11 Ephorus, whom I am using more than any other authority because, asPolybius, a noteworthy writer, testifies, he exercises great care in such matters, seems to me sometimes to do the opposite of what he intended, and at the outset promised, to do. At any rate, after censuring those who love to insert myths in the text of their histories, and after praising the truth, he adds to his account of this oracle a kind of solemn promise, saying that he regards the truth as best in all cases, but particularly on this subject; for it is absurd, he says, if we always follow such a method in dealing with every other subject, and yet, when speaking of the oracle which is the most truthful of all, go on to use the accounts that are so untrustworthy and false. Yet, though he says this, he adds forthwith that historians take it for granted thatApollo, withThemis, devised the oracle because he wished to help our race; and then, speaking of the helpfulness of it, he says thatApollo challenged men to gentleness and inculcated self control by giving out oracles to some, commanding them to do certain things and forbidding them to do other things, and by absolutely refusing admittance to other consultants. Men believe thatApollo directs all this, he says, some believing that the god himself assumes a bodily form, others that he transmits to human beings a knowledge of his own will.
§ 9.3.12 A little further on, when discussing who theDelphians were, he says that in olden times certainParnassians who were called indigenous inhabitedParnassus; and that at this timeApollo, visiting the land, civilized the people by introducing cultivated fruits and cultured modes of life; and that when he set out fromAthens toDelphi he went by the road which theAthenians now take when they conduct thePythias; and that when he arrived at the land of thePanopaeans he destroyedTityus, a violent and lawless man who ruled there; and that theParnassians joined him and informed him of another cruel man namedPython and known as the Dragon, and that whenApollo shot at him with his arrows theParnassians shouted "Hie Paean" to encourage him (the origin,Ephorus adds, of the singing of the Paean which has been handed down as a custom for armies just before the clash of battle); and that the tent ofPython was burnt by theDelphians at that time, just as they still burn it to this day in remembrance of what took place at that time. But what could be more mythical thanApollo shooting with arrows and punishing Tityuses and Pythons, and travelling fromAthens toDelphi and visiting the whole earth? But ifEphorus did not take these stories for myths, by what right did he call the mythologicalThemis a woman, and the mythological Dragon a human being — unless he wished to confound the two types, history and myth? Similar to these statements are also those concerning theAitolians; for after saying that from all time their country had been unravaged, he at one time says thatAeolians took up their abode there, having ejected the barbarians who were in possession of it, and at another time thatAetolus together with theEpeii fromElis took up their abode there, but that these were destroyed by theAeolians, and that these latter were destroyed byAlcmaeon andDiomedes. But I return to thePhocians.
§ 9.3.13 On the seacoast afterAnticyra, one comes first to a town calledOpisthomarathus; then to a cape calledPharygium, where there is an anchoring-place; then to the harbor that is last, which, from the fact in the case, is calledMychus; and it lies belowHelicon andAscre. And the oracle ofAbae is not far from this region, norAmbrysus, norMedeon, which bears the same name as theBoeotianMedeon. Still farther in the interior, afterDelphi, approximately towards the east, is a townDaulis, whereTereus the Thracian is said to have held sway (the scene of the mythical story ofPhilomela andProcne is laid there, thoughThucydides says atMegara). The place got its name from the thickets, for they call thickets "dauli." NowHomer called itDaulis, but later writers call itDaulis. And "Cyparissus," in the words "heldCyparissus," is interpreted by writers in two ways, by some as bearing the same name as the tree, and by others, by a slight change in the spelling, as a village belowLycoreia.
§ 9.3.14 Panopeus, thePhanoteus of today, borders on the region ofLebadeia, and is the native land ofEpeius. And the scene of the myth ofTityus is laid here.Homer says that thePhaeacians "led"Rhadamanthys intoEuboea "to seeTityus, son of theEarth." And a cave called Elarium is to be seen in the island, named afterElara the mother ofTityus; and also a hero-sanctuary ofTityus, and certain honors which are paid to him. NearLebadeia, also, isTrachin, aPhocian town, which bears the same name as theOitaean city; and its inhabitants are calledTrachinians.
§ 9.3.15 Anemoreia has been named from a circumstance connected with it: squalls of wind sweep down upon it from Catopterius, as it is called, a beetling cliff extending fromParnassus. This place was a boundary betweenDelphi and thePhocians when theLacedemonians caused theDelphians to revolt from the common organization of thePhocians, and permitted them to form a separate State of their own. Some, however, call the place Anemoleia. And then one comes toHyampolis (later called Hya by some), to which, as I have said, theHyantes were banished fromBoeotia. This city is very far inland, nearParapotamii, and is not the same asHyampeia onParnassus; also far inland isElateia, the largest city of thePhocians, which is unknown byHomer, for it is more recent than the Homeric age, and it is advantageously situated in that it commands the passes fromThessaly.Demosthenes clearly indicates the natural advantage of its position when he speaks of the commotion that suddenly took place atAthens when a messenger came to thePrytanes with the report thatElateia had been captured.
§ 9.3.16 Parapotamii is a settlement on theCephissus River nearPhanoteus andChaeroneia andElateia.Theopompus says that this place is distant fromChaeroneia about forty stadia and marks the boundary of the territories of theAmbryseans, thePanopeans and theDaulians; and that it lies on a moderately high hill at the pass which leads fromBoeotia intoPhocis, between the mountainsParnassus andHadylius, between which is left a tract of about five stadia divided by theCephissus River, which affords a narrow pass on each side. The river, he continues, has its beginnings in thePhocian cityLilaea (just asHomer says, "and those who heldLilaea, at the fountains ofCephissus " ), and empties into LakeCopais; and the mountainHadylius extends over a distance of sixty stadia as far as the mountainAcontius, whereOrchomenus is situated. AndHesiod, too, describes at considerable length the river and the course of its flow, saying that it flows through the whole ofPhocis in a winding and serpentine course; "like a dragon it goes in tortuous courses out pastPanopeus and through strongGlechon and throughOrchomenus." The narrow pass in the neighborhood ofParapotamii, orParapotamia (for the name is spelled both ways), was an object of contention in thePhocian war, since the enemy had here their only entrance intoPhocis. There are, besides thePhocianCephissus, theriver atAthens, the one inSalamis, a fourth and a fifth inSikyon and inScyros, and a sixth inArgos, which has its sources in Mt.Lyrceius; and atApollonia nearEpidamnus there is a fountain near the gymnasium which is calledCephissus.
§ 9.3.17 Daphnus is now razed to the ground. It was at one time a city ofPhocis, bordering on theEuboean Sea; it divided theEpicnemidianLocrians into two parts, one part in the direction ofBoeotia, and the other facingPhocis, which at that time reached from sea to sea. And evidence of this is the Schedieium inDaphnus, which, they say, is the tomb ofSchedius; but as I have said,Daphnus "split"Locris on either side, so that theEpicnemidian andOpuntian Locrians nowhere bordered on one another; but in later times the place was included within the boundaries of theOpuntians. ConcerningPhocis, however, I have said enough.
§ 9.4.1 LocrisLocris comes next in order, and therefore I must describe this country. It is divided into two parts: one part is that which is inhabited by theLocrians and facesEuboea; and, as I was saying, it was once split into two parts, one on either side ofDaphnus. TheOpuntians were named after their metropolis, and theEpicnemidians after a mountain calledCnemis. The rest ofLocris is inhabited by the WesternLocrians, who are also calledOzolian Locrians. They are separated from theOpuntians and theEpicnemidians byParnassus, which is situated between them, and by the Tetrapolis of theDorians. But I must begin with theOpuntians.
§ 9.4.2 Next, then, afterHalae, where that part of theBoeotian coast which facesEuboea terminates, lies the Opuntian Gulf.Opus is the metropolis, as is clearly indicated by the inscription on the first of the five pillars in the neighborhood ofThermopylae, near the Polyandrium: "Opoeis, metropolis of theLocrians of righteous laws, mourns for these who perished in defence of Greece against theMedes." It is about fifteen stadia distant from the sea, and sixty from the seaport.Cynus is the seaport, a cape which forms the end of the Opuntian Gulf, the gulf being about forty stadia in extent. BetweenOpus andCynus is a fertile plain; andCynus lies oppositeAedepsus inEuboea, where are the hot waters ofHeracles, and is separated from it by a strait one hundred and sixty stadia wide.Deucalion is said to have lived inCynus; and the grave ofPyrrha is to be seen there, though that ofDeucalion is to be seen atAthens.Cynus is about fifty stadia distant from MountCnemis. The islandAtalanta is also situated oppositeOpus, and bears the same name as the island in front ofAttica. It is said that a certain people inEleia are also called Opuntians, but it is not worth while to mention them, except to say that they are reviving a kinship which exists between them and theOpuntians. NowHomer says thatPatroclus was fromOpus, and that after committing an involuntary murder he fled toPeleus, but that his fatherMenoetius remained in his native land; for thitherAchilles says that he promisedMenoetius to bring backPatroclus whenPatroclus should return from the expedition. However,Menoetius was not king of theOpuntians, butAias theLocrian, whose native land, as they say, wasNarycus. They call the man who was slain byPatroclus "Aeanes"; and both a sacred precinct, the Aeaneium, and a spring, Aeanis, named after him, are to be seen.
§ 9.4.3 Next afterCynus, one comes toAlope and toDaphnus, which latter, as I said, is razed to the ground; and here there is a harbor which is about ninety stadia distant fromCynus, and one hundred and twenty stadia fromElateia, for one going on foot into the interior. We have now reached theMaliac Gulf, which is continuous with theOpuntian Gulf.
§ 9.4.4 AfterDaphnus one comes toCnemides, a natural stronghold, about twenty stadia by sea; and opposite it, inEuboea, liesKenaion, a cape facing the west and theMaliac Gulf, and separated from it by a strait about twenty stadia in width. At this point we have now reached the territory of theEpicnemidian Locrians. Here, too, lying off the coast, are the threeLichades Islands, as they are called, named afterLichas; and there are also other islands along the coast, but I am purposely omitting them. After twenty stadia fromCnemides one comes to a harbor, above which, at an equal distance in the interior, liesThronium. Then one comes to theBoagrius River, which flows pastThronium and empties into the sea. They also call itManes. It is a winter stream, so that at times one can cross it dry-shod, though at other times it has a breadth of two plethra. After this one comes toScarpheia, which is situated ten stadia above the sea, thirty stadia distant fromThronium, and slightly less from the harbor itself. Then one comes toNicaea andThermopylae.
§ 9.4.5 As for the remaining cities, it is not worthwhile to mention any of them except those which are mentioned byHomer.Calliarus is no longer inhabited, but is now a beautifully-tilled plain, and they so call it from what is the fact in the case.Bessa, too, does not exist; it is a wooded place. Neither doesAugeiae, whose territory is held by theScarphians. Now thisBessa should be written with a double s (for it is named from its being a wooded place, being spelled the same way — likeNape in the plain ofMethymne, whichHellanicus ignorantly names Lape), whereas the deme inAttica, whose inhabitants are accordingly calledBesaeeis, should be written with one s.
§ 9.4.6 Tarphe is situated on a height, at a distance of twenty stadia fromThronium; its territory is both fruitful and well-wooded, for already this place had been named from its being thickly wooded. But it is now calledPharygae; and here is situated a sanctuary of PharygaeanHera, so called from theHera in theArgive Pharygae; and, indeed, they say that they are colonists of theArgives.
§ 9.4.7 However,Homer does not mention theWestern Locrians, or at least not in express words, but only in that he seems by contrast to distinguish these from those otherLocrians of whom I have already spoken, when he says, "of theLocrians who dwell opposite sacredEuboea," implying that there was a different set ofLocrians. But they have not been much talked about by many others either. The cities they held wereAmphissa andNaupactus; of these,Naupactus survives, nearAntirrhium, and it was named from the shipbuilding that was once carried on there, whether it was because theHeracleidae built their fleet there, or (asEphorus says) because theLocrians had built ships there even before that time. It now belongs to theAitolians, having been adjudged to them byPhilip.
§ 9.4.8 Here, also, isChalcis, which the poet mentions in theAitolianCatalogue; it is belowCalydon. Here, also, is the hillTaphiassus, on which are the tombs ofNessus and the otherCentaurs, from whose putrefied bodies, they say, flows forth at the base of the hill the water which is malodorous and clotted; and it is on this account, they add, that the tribe is also calledOzolian.Molycreia, anAitolian town, is also nearAntirrhium. The site ofAmphissa is on the edge of theCrisaean Plain; it was razed to the ground by theAmphictyons, as I have said. And bothOiantheia andEupalium belong to theLocrians. The whole voyage along theLocrian coast slightly exceeds two hundred stadia in length.
§ 9.4.9 There is a place namedAlope, not onlyhere and among theEpicnemidian Locrians, but also inPhthiotis. Now these are colonists of theEpicnemidian Locrians, but theEpizephyrian Locrians are colonists of these.
§ 9.4.10 TheAitolians border on the westernLocrians; and theAenianians who inhabit MountOita border on theEpicnemidian Locrians; and in the middle between them areDorians. Now theseDorians are the people who inhabited the Tetrapolis, which, they say, was the metropolis of all theDorians; and the cities they held wereErineus,Boeum,Pindus andCytinium.Pindus is situated aboveErineus; and a river bearing the same name flows past it, emptying into theCephissus not very far fromLilaea. By some, however, Pindus is calledAcyphas. The king of theseDorians wasAegimius, who was driven from his throne, but was brought back again, as the story goes, byHeracles; accordingly,Aegimius requited the favor toHeracles after the latter's death onOita; for he adoptedHyllus, the eldest of the sons ofHeracles; andHyllus and his descendants became his successors on the throne. From here it was that theHeracleidae set out on their return to thePeloponnesus.
§ 9.4.11 Now for a time the cities in question were held in respect, although they were small and had poor soil, but afterwards they were lightly esteemed. During thePhocian War and the domination of theMacedonians,Aitolians, andAthamanians — it is marvellous that even a trace of them passed to the Romans. And theAenianians had the same experience, for they too were destroyed by theAitolians and theAthamanians: by theAitolians, when they waged war in conjunction with theAcarnanians, and were very powerful, and by theAthamanians, when they attained to distinction (the last of theEpeirotes to do so, the other peoples having by this time been worn out) and under their kingAmynander had acquired power. TheseAthamanians kept possession ofOita.
§ 9.4.12 This mountain extends fromThermopylae in the east to theAmbracian Gulf in the west; and, in a way, it cuts at right angles the mountainous country which extends fromParnassus toPindus and to the barbarians who are situated beyondPindus. Of this mountain, the part which verges towardsThermopylae is calledOita; its length is two hundred stadia, and it is rugged and high; but it is highest atThermopylae, for there it rises into a peak, and ends at the sea in sharp and abrupt precipices, though it leaves a narrow pass for invasions fromThessaly into the country of theLocrians.
§ 9.4.13 Now the pass is called not only "Pylae" and "Narrows," but also "Thermopylae," for there are hot waters near it that are held in honor as sacred toHeracles; and the mountain that lies above it is calledCallidromus, but by some the remaining part of the mountain, which extends throughAitolia andAcarnania to theAmbracian Gulf, is also calledCallidromus. NearThermopylae, inside the narrows, are forts —Nicaea, towards the sea of theLocrians, and above it,Teichius andHeracleia, the latter in earlier times having been calledTrachin, a settlement ofLacedemonians.Heracleia is about six stadia distant from the oldTrachin. Next one comes toRhoduntia, a natural stronghold.
§ 9.4.14 These places are rendered difficult of access both by the ruggedness of the country and by the number of streams of water which here form ravines through which they flow. For besides theSpercheius, which flows pastAnticyra, there is theDyras River, which, they say, tried to quench the funeral pyre ofHeracles, and also another Melas, which is five stadia distant fromTrachin. To the south ofTrachin, according toHerodotus, there is a deep gorge through which theAsopus, bearing the same name as the aforesaidAsopus Rivers, empties into the sea outsidePylae after receiving thePhoenix River, which meets it from the south and bears the name of the heroPhoenix, whose tomb is to be seen near it. The distance from theAsopus toThermopylae is fifteen stadia.
§ 9.4.15 Now at that time these places were at the height of their fame when they held the mastery over the keys of theNarrows, and when there were struggles for the primacy between the peoples outside theNarrows and those inside them; for instance,Philip used to callChalcis andCorinth "the fetters of Greece," havingMacedonia in view as his base of operations; and the men of later times called, not only these, but also the cityDemetrias "shackles," forDemetrias commanded the passes roundTempe, since it held bothPelion andOssa. But later, now that all peoples have been brought into subjection to a single power, everything is free from toll and open to all mankind.
§ 9.4.16 It was at theseNarrows thatLeonidas and his men, with a few who came from the neighborhood thereof, held out against all those forces of thePersians, until the barbarians, coming around the mountains through by-paths, cut them down. And today their Polyandrium is to be seen, and pillars, and the oft-quoted inscription on the pillar of theLacedemonians, which is as follows: "Stranger, report to theLacedemonians that we lie here in obedience to their laws."
§ 9.4.17 There is also a large harbor here, and a sanctuary ofDemeter, in which at the time of every Pylaean assembly theAmphictyons performed sacrificial rites. From the harbor toHeracleianTrachin the distance on foot is forty stadia, and by boat toKenaion seventy stadia. TheSpercheius empties immediately outsidePylae. The distance toPylae from theEuripus is five hundred and thirty stadia. And whereasLocris ends atPylae, the parts outsidePylae towards the east and theMaliac Gulf belong to theThessalians, and the parts towards the west belong to theAitolians and theAcarnanians. As for theAthamanians, they are now extinct.
§ 9.4.18 Now the largest and most ancient composite part of the Greeks is that of theThessalians, who have been described partly byHomer and partly by several others. TheAitoliansHomer always speaks of under one name, classing cities, not tribes, under them, except theCuretes, who should be classified asAitolians. But I must begin withThessaly, omitting such things as are very old and mythical and for the most part not agreed upon, as I have already done in all other cases, and telling such things as seem to me appropriate to my purpose.
§ 9.5.1 ThessalyThessaly comprises, first, on the sea, the coast which extends fromThermopylae to the outlet of thePeneius River and the extremities ofPelion, and faces the east and the northern extremities ofEuboea. The parts that are nearEuboea andThermopylae are held by theMalians and theAchaeanPhthiotae, and the parts nearPelion by theMagnetans. Let this side ofThessaly, then, be called the eastern or coastal side. As for the two sides ofThessaly: on one side, beginning atPelion and thePeneius,Macedonia stretches towards the interior as far asPaeonia and theEpeirote tribes, and on the other side, beginning atThermopylae, theOitaean andAitolian mountains lie parallel toMacedonia, bordering on the country of theDorians and onParnassus. Let the former side, which borders onMacedonia, be called the northern side, and the latter the southern side. There remains the western side, which is surrounded by theAitolians andAcarnanians andAmphilochians, and, of theEpeirotes, theAthamanians andMolossians and what was once called the land of theAethices, or, in a word, the land aboutPindus. The land ofThessaly, as a whole, is a plain, exceptPelion andOssa. These mountains rise to a considerable height; they do not, however, enclose much territory in their circuits, but end in the plains.
§ 9.5.2 These plains are the middle parts ofThessaly, a country most blest, except so much of it as is subject to inundations by rivers. For thePeneius, which flows through the middle of it and receives many rivers, often overflows; and in olden times the plain formed a lake, according to report, being hemmed in by mountains on all sides except in the region of the seacoast; and there too the region was more elevated than the plains. But when a cleft was made by earthquakes atTempe, as it is now called, and split offOssa fromOlympus, thePeneius poured out through it towards the sea and drained the country in question. But there remains, nevertheless, LakeNessonis, which is a large lake, and LakeBoebeis, which is smaller than the former and nearer to the seacoast.
§ 9.5.3 Such being its nature,Thessaly was divided into four parts. One part was calledPhthiotis, anotherHestiaeotis, anotherThessaliotis, and anotherPelasgiotis.Phthiotis occupies the southern parts which extend alongsideOita from theMaliac, orPylaic, Gulf as far asDolopia andPindus, and widen out as far asPharsalus and theThessalian plains.Hestiaeotis occupies the western parts and the parts betweenPindus and UpperMacedonia. The remaining parts ofThessaly are held, first, by the people who live in the plains belowHestiaeotis (they are calledPelasgiotae and their country borders on LowerMacedonia), and, secondly, by theThessaliotae next in order, who fill out the districts extending as far as theMagnetan seacoast. Here, too, there will be an enumeration of famous names of cities, and especially because of the poetry ofHomer; only a few of the cities preserve their ancient dignity, butLarisa most of all.
§ 9.5.4 The poet, after dividing into ten parts, or dynasties, the whole of the country which we now callThessaly, and after adding certain parts both of theOitaean and theLocrian countries, and likewise certain parts of the country now classed underMacedonia, intimates a fact which is common to, and true of, all countries, that whole regions and their several parts undergo changes in proportion to the power of those who hold sway.
§ 9.5.5 Now the first peoples he names in theCatalogue are those underAchilles, who occupied the southern side and were situated alongsideOita and theEpicnemidian Locrians, "all who dwelt in thePelasgian Argos and those who inhabitedAlus andAlope andTrachin, and those who heldPhthia and alsoHellas the land of fair women, and were calledMyrmidons and Hellenes andAchaeans." with these he joins also the subjects ofPhoenix, and makes the expedition common to both leaders. It is true that the poet nowhere mentions theDolopian army in connection with the battles roundIlium, for he does not represent their leaderPhoenix as going forth into the perils of battle either, any more than he doesNestor; yet others so state, asPindar, for instance, who mentionsPhoenix and then says, "who held a throng ofDolopians, bold in the use of the sling and bringing aid to the missiles of theDanaans, tamers ofhorses." This, in fact, is the interpretation which we must give to the Homeric passage according to the principle of silence, as the grammarians are wont to call it, for it would be ridiculous if the kingPhoenix shared in the expedition ("I dwelt in the farthermost part ofPhthia, being lord over theDolopians") without his subjects being present; for if they were not present, he would not have been regarded as sharing in the expedition withAchilles, but only as following him in the capacity of a chief over a few men and as a speaker, perhaps as a counsellor.Homer's verses on this subject mean also to make this clear, for such is the import of the words, "to be a speaker of words and a doer of deeds." Clearly, therefore, he means, as I have already said, that the forces underAchilles andPhoenix are the same. But the aforesaid statements concerning the places subject toAchilles are themselves under controversy. Some take thePelasgian Argos as aThessalian city once situated in the neighborhood ofLarisa but now no longer existent; but others take it, not as a city, but as the plain of theThessalians, which is referred to by this name becauseAbas, who brought a colony there fromArgos, so named it.
§ 9.5.6 As forPhthia, some say that it is the same asHellas andAchaea, and that these constitute the other, the southern, of the two parts into whichThessaly as a whole was divided; but others distinguish betweenHellas andAchaea. The poet seems to makePhthia andHellas two different things when he says, "and those who heldPhthia andHellas," as though there were two, and when he says, "And then (I fled) far away through spaciousHellas, and I came toPhthia," and, "There are manyAchaean women throughoutHellas andPhthia." So the poet makes them two, but he does not make it plain whether they are cities or countries. As for later authorities, some, speaking ofHellas as a country, say that it stretches fromPalaepharsalus toPhthiotic Thebes. In this country also is theThetideium, near both Pharsaluses, both the old and the new; and they infer from theThetideium that this country too is a part of that which was subject toAchilles. As for those, however, who speak ofHellas as a city, thePharsalians point out at a distance of sixty stadia from their own city a city in ruins which they believe to beHellas, and also two springs near it,Messeis andHypereia, whereas theMelitaeans say thatHellas was situated about ten stadia distant from themselves on the other side of theEnipeus, at the time when their own city was namedPyrrha, and that it was fromHellas, which was situated in a low-lying district, that the Hellenes migrated to their own city; and they cite as bearing witness to this the tomb ofHellen, son ofDeucalion andPyrrha, situated in their marketplace. For it is related thatDeucalion ruled overPhthia, and, in a word, overThessaly. TheEnipeus, flowing fromOthrys pastPharsalus, turns aside into theApidanus, and the latter into thePeneius. Thus much, then, concerning the Hellenes.
§ 9.5.7 "Phthians" is the name given to those who were subject toAchilles andProtesilaus andPhiloctetes. And the poet is witness to this, for after mentioning in theCatalogue those who were subject toAchilles "and those who heldPhthia," he represents these, in the battle at the ships, as staying behind withAchilles in their ships and as being inactive, but those who were subject toPhiloctetes as taking part in the battle, havingMedon as "marshal," and those who were subject toProtesilaus as "marshalled byPodarces." Concerning these, speaking in a general way, he says, "And there theBoeotians andIonians with trailing tunics, theLocrians and Phthians and illustriousEpeians;" and, in a specific way, "and in front of the Phthians wasMedon, and alsoPodarces steadfast in war. These in their armour, in front of the great-hearted Phthians, were fighting along with theBoeotians in defence of the ships." Perhaps the men withEurypylus also were called Phthians, since their country indeed bordered onPhthia. Now, however, historians regard as belonging toMagnesia, not only the region roundOrmenium, which belonged to the country that was subject toEurypylus, but also the whole of the country that was subject toPhiloctetes; but they regard the country that was subject toProtesilaus as a part ofPhthia, extending fromDolopia andPindus as far as theMagnetan Sea; whereas the land subject toPeleus andAchilles, beginning at theTrachinian andOitaean countries, is defined as extending in breadth as far asAntron, the city subject toProtesilaus, the name of which is now spelled in the plural number. And theMaliac Gulf has about the same length.
§ 9.5.8 But as regardsHalus andAlope, historians are thoroughly in doubt, suspecting that the poet does not mean the places so named which now are classed in thePhthiotic domain, but those among theLocrians, since the dominion ofAchilles extended thus far, just as it also extended as far asTrachin and theOitaean country; for there is both aHalus and aHalius on the seaboard of theLocrians, just as there is also anAlope. Some substituteHalius forAlope and write as follows: "and those who dwelt inHalus and inHalius and inTrachin." ThePhthioticHalus is situated below the end ofOthrys, a mountain situated to the north ofPhthiotis, bordering on MountTyphrestus and the country of theDolopians, and extending from there to the region of theMaliac Gulf.Halus (either feminine or masculine, for the name is used in both genders) is about sixty stadia distant fromItonus. It wasAthamas who foundedHalus, but in later times, after it had been wiped out, thePharsalians colonized the place. It is situated above the Crocian Plain; and theAmphrysus River flows close to its walls. Below the Crocian Plain liesPhthiotic Thebes.Halus is called bothPhthiotic andAchaeanHalus, and it borders on the country of theMalians, as do also the spurs ofOthrys Mountain. And just as thePhylace, which was subject toProtesilaus, is in that part ofPhthiotis which lies next to the country of theMalians, so also isHalus; it is about one hundred stadia distant fromThebes, and it is midway betweenPharsalus and thePhthiotae. However,Philip took it away from thePhthiotae and assigned it to thePharsalians. And so it comes to pass, as I have said before, that the boundaries and the political organizations of tribes and places are always undergoing changes. So, also,Sophocles speaks ofTrachinia as belonging toPhthiotis. AndArtemidorus placesHalus on the seaboard, as situated outside theMaliac Gulf, indeed, but as belonging toPhthiotis; for proceeding thence in the direction of thePeneius, he placesPteleum afterAntron, and thenHalus at a distance of one hundred and ten stadia fromPteleum. As forTrachin, I have already described it, and the poet mentions it by name.
§ 9.5.9 Since the poet often mentions theSpercheius as a river of this country, and since it has its sources inTyphrestus, theDryopian mountain which in earlier times was called . . ., and empties nearThermopylae and between it andLamia, he plainly indicates that both the region insidethe Gates, I mean in so far as it belonged to theMaliac Gulf, and the region outsidethe Gates, were subject toAchilles. TheSpercheius is about thirty stadia distant fromLamia, which is situated above a certain plain that extends down to theMaliac Gulf. And he plainly indicates that theSpercheius was a river of this country, not only by the assertion ofAchilles that he "fostered the growth of his hair as an offering toSpercheius," but also by the fact thatMenesthius, one of his commanders, was called the son ofSpercheius with the sister ofAchilles. And it is reasonable to suppose that all the people, the subjects ofAchilles andPatroclus, who had accompaniedPeleus in his flight fromAigina, were calledMyrmidons. And all thePhthiotae were calledAchaeans.
§ 9.5.10 Historians enumerate the settlements in thePhthiotic domain that was subject toAchilles, and they begin with theMalians. They name several, and among themPhthiotic Thebes,Echinus,Lamia (near which theLamian War arose between theMacedonians, underAntipater, and theAthenians, and in this warLeosthenes, a general of theAthenians, fell, and alsoLeonnatus, the comrade of kingAlexander), and alsoNarthacium,Erineus,Coroneia (bearing the same name as theBoeotian city),Melitaea,Thaumaci,Proerna,Pharsalus,Eretria (bearing the same name as theEuboean city), andParacheloitae (this, too, bearing the same name as theAitolian city), for here too, nearLamia, is a riverAchelous, on whose banks live theParacheloitae. This country bordered, in its stretch towards the north, on the country of the most westerly of theAsclepiadae, and on the country ofEurypylus, and also on that ofProtesilaus, these countries inclining towards the east; and in its stretch towards the south, on theOitaean country, which was divided into fourteen demes, and alsoHeracleia andDryopis,Dryopis having at one time been a tetrapolis, likeDoris, and regarded as the metropolis of theDryopians who lived in thePeloponnesus. To theOitaean country belong alsoAcyphas, Parasopias, Oineiadae, andAnticyra, which bears the same name as the city among the WesternLocrians. But I am speaking of these divisions of the country, not as having always remained the same, but as having undergone various changes. However, only the most significant divisions are particularly worthy of mention.
§ 9.5.11 As for theDolopians, the Poet himself says clearly enough that they were situated in the farthermost parts ofPhthia, and that both these and thePhthiotae were under the same leader,Peleus; for "I dwelt," he says, "in the farthermost part ofPhthia, being lord over theDolopians, whomPeleus gave me." The country borders onPindus, and on the region roundPindus, most of which belongs to theThessalians. For both on account of the fame and of the predominance of theThessalians and theMacedonians, the countries of thoseEpeirotes who were their nearest neighbors were made, some willingly and the others unwillingly, parts ofThessaly orMacedonia; for instance, theAthamanes, theAethices, and theTalares were made parts ofThessaly, and theOrestae, thePelagonians, and theElimiotae ofMacedonia.
§ 9.5.12 ThePindus Mountain is large, having the country of theMacedonians on the north, thePerrhaebian immigrants on the west, theDolopians on the south, andHestiaeotis on the east; and this last is a part ofThessaly. TheTalares, aMolossian tribe, a branch of those who lived in the neighborhood of MountTomarus, lived on MountPindus itself, as did also theAethices, amongst whom, the poet says, theCentaurs were driven byPeirithous; but history now tells us that they are "extinct." The term "extinct" is to be taken in one of two meanings; either the people vanished and their country has become utterly deserted, or else merely their ethnic name no longer exists and their political organization no longer remains what it was. When, therefore, any present political organization that survives from an earlier time is utterly insignificant, I hold that it is not worth mentioning, either itself or the new name it has taken; but when it affords a fair pretext for being mentioned, I must needs give an account of the change.
§ 9.5.13 It remains for me to tell the order of the places on the coast that were subject toAchilles, beginning atThermopylae; for I have already spoken of theLocrian and theOitaean countries.Thermopylae, then, is separated fromKenaion by a strait seventy stadia wide; but, to one sailing along the coast beyondPylae, it is about ten stadia from theSpercheius; and thence toPhalara twenty stadia; and abovePhalara, fifty stadia from the sea, is situated the city of theLamians; and then next, after sailing fifty stadia along the coast, one comes toEchinus, which is situated above the sea; and in the interior from the next stretch of coast, twenty stadia distant from it, isLarisa Cremaste (it is also calledLarisa Pelasgia).
§ 9.5.14 Then one comes toMyonnesus, a small island; and then toAntron, which was subject toProtesilaus. So much, then, for the portion that was subject toAchilles. But since the poet, through naming both the leaders and the cities subject to them, has dividedThessaly into numerous well-known parts and arranged in order the whole circuit of it, I, following him again, as above, shall go on to complete the remainder of my geographical description of the country. Now he enumerates next in order after those who were subject toAchilles those who were subject toProtesilaus; and these are also the people who come next in order after the stretch of coast which was subject toAchilles as far asAntron. Therefore, the territory that was subject toProtesilaus is in the boundaries of the country that comes next in order, that is, it lies outside theMaliac Gulf, but still insidePhthiotis, though not inside the part ofPhthiotis that was subject toAchilles. NowPhylace is nearPhthiotic Thebes, which itself is subject toProtesilaus. AndHalus, also, andLarisa Cremaste, andDemetrium, are subject to him, all being situated to the east of theOthrys Mountain.Demetrium he speaks of as "sacred precinct ofDemeter," and calls it "Pyrasus."Pyrasus was a city with a good harbor; at a distance of two stadia it had a sacred precinct and a holy sanctuary, and was twenty stadia distant fromThebes.Thebes is situated abovePyrasus, but the Crocian Plain is situated in the interior back ofThebes near the end ofOthrys; and it is through this plain that theAmphrysus flows. Above this river are theItonus, where is the sanctuary of theItonian, after which thesanctuary inBoeotia is named, and theCuarius Rivers. But I have already spoken of thisriver and ofArne in my description ofBoeotia. These places are inThessaliotis, one of the four portions of allThessaly, in which were not only the regions that were subject toEurypylus, but alsoPhyllus, where is the sanctuary of PhyllianApollo, andIchnae, where the IchnaeanThemis is held in honor.Cierus, also, was tributary to it, and so was the rest of that region as far asAthamania. NearAntron, in theEuboean strait, is a submarine reef called "Ass of Antron"; and then one comes toPteleum andHalus; and then to the sanctuary ofDemeter; and toPyrasus, which has been razed to the ground; and, above it, toThebes; and then to CapePyrrha, and to two isles near it, one of which is calledPyrrha and the otherDeucalion. And it is somewhere here thatPhthiotis ends.
§ 9.5.15 Next the poet enumerates the peoples that were subject toEumelus, that is, the adjacent seacoast, which from this point on belongs toMagnesia and the land ofPelasgiotis. NowPherae is at the end of thePelasgian plains on the side towardsMagnesia; and these plains extend as far asPelion, one hundred and sixty stadia. The seaport ofPherae isPagasae, which is ninety stadia distant fromPherae and twenty fromIolcus.Iolcus has indeed been razed to the ground from early times, but it was from there thatPelias despatchedJason and theArgo. It was from the construction here of the shipArgo, according to mythology, that the place was calledPagasae, though some believe, more plausibly, that this name was given the place from its fountains, which are both numerous and of abundant flow. Nearby isAphetae also, so named as being the "apheterium" of theArgonauts.Iolcus is situated above the sea seven stadia fromDemetrias.Demetrias, which is on the sea betweenNelia andPagasae, was founded byDemetrius Poliorcetes, who named it after himself, settling in it the inhabitants of the nearby towns,Nelia andPagasae andOrmenium, and alsoRhizus,Sepias,Olizon,Boebe, andIolcus, which are now villages belonging toDemetrias. Furthermore, for a long time this was both a naval station and a royal residence for the kings of theMacedonians; and it held the mastery over bothTempe and the two mountains,Pelion andOssa, as I have already said. At present it is reduced in power, but still it surpasses all the cities inMagnesia. LakeBoebeis is nearPherae, and also borders on the foothills ofPelion and the frontiers ofMagnesia; andBoebe is a place situated on the lake. Just as seditions and tyrannies destroyedIolcus after its power had been greatly increased, so they reducedPherae also, which had once been raised to greatness by its tyrants and was then destroyed along with them. NearDemetrias flows theAnaurus River; and the adjoining shore is also calledIolcus. Here, too, they used to hold thePylaic Festal Assembly.Artemidorus places thePagasitic Gulf in the region subject toPhiloctetes, farther away fromDemetrias; and he says that the islandCicynethos and a town bearing the same name are in the gulf.
§ 9.5.16 The poet next enumerates the cities subject toPhiloctetes. NowMethone is different from the ThracianMethone, which was razed to the ground byPhilip. I have mentioned heretofore the change of the names of these places, and of certain places in thePeloponnesus. And the other places enumerated by the poet areThaumacia andOlizon andMeliboea, which are on the next stretch of seacoast. Off the country of theMagnetans lie numerous islands, but the only notable ones areSciathos,Peparethos, andIcos, and alsoHalonnesos andScyros, all having cities of the same name. ButScyros is the most notable, because of the family relation betweenLycomedes andAchilles, and of the birth and nurture there ofNeoptolemus the son ofAchilles. In later times, whenPhilip had waxed powerful and saw that theAthenians dominated the sea and ruled over the islands, both these and the rest, he caused the islands that were near him to be most famous; for, since he was fighting for the hegemony, he always attacked those places which were close to him, and, just as he added toMacedonia most parts of theMagnetan country and ofThrace and of the rest of the land all round, so he also seized the islands offMagnesia and made those which were previously well-known to nobody objects of contention and hence well-known. NowScyros is chiefly commended by the place it occupies in the ancient legends, but there are other things which cause it to be widely mentioned, as, for instance, the excellence of theScyriangoats, and the quarries of theScyrian variegated marble, which is comparable to theCarystian marble, and to theDocimaean orSynnadic, and to the Hierapolitic. For atRome are to be seen monolithic columns and great slabs of the variegated marble; and with this marble the city is being adorned both at public and at private expense; and it has caused the quarries of white marble to be of little worth.
§ 9.5.17 However, the poet, after proceeding thus far on theMagnetan seacoast, returns to UpperThessaly; for, beginning atDolopia andPindus, he recounts the parts that stretch alongsidePhthiotis, as far as LowerThessaly: "And those who heldTricce and rockyIthome." These places belong in fact toHistiaeotis, though in earlier timesHistiaeotis was calledDoris, as they say; but when thePerrhaebians took possession of it, who had already subduedHistiaeotis inEuboea and had forced its inhabitants to migrate to the mainland, they called the countryHistiaeotis after theseHistiaeans, because of the large number of these people who settled there. They callHistiaeotis andDolopia UpperThessaly, which is in a straight line with UpperMacedonia, as is LowerThessaly with LowerMacedonia. NowTricce, where is the earliest and most famous sanctuary ofAsclepius, borders on the country of theDolopians and the regions roundPindus.Ithome, which is called by the same name as theMessenian city, ought not, they say, to be pronounced in this way, but without the first syllable; for thus, they add, it was called in earlier times, though now its name has been changed toIthome. It is a stronghold and is in reality a heap of stones; and it is situated between four strongholds, which lie in a square, as it were:Tricce,Metropolis,Pelinnaion, andGomphi. ButIthome belongs to the territory of the Metropolitans.Metropolis in earlier times was a joint settlement composed of three insignificant towns; but later several others were added to it, among which wasIthome. NowCallimachus, in his Iambics, says that, "of all the Aphrodites (for there was not merely one goddess of this name),Aphrodite Castnietis surpasses all in wisdom, since she alone accepts the sacrifice ofswine." And surely he was very learned, if any other man was, and all his life, as he himself states, wished to recount these things. But the writers of later times have discovered that not merely oneAphrodite, but several, have accepted this rite; and that among these was theAphrodite atMetropolis, and that one of the cities included in the settlement transmitted to it the Onthurian rite.Pharcadon, also, is inHistiaeotis; and thePeneius and theCuralius flow through its territory. Of these rivers, theCuralius flows past the sanctuary of theItonianAthena and empties into thePeneius; but thePeneius itself rises inPindus, as I have already said, and after leavingTricce andPelinnaion andPharcadon on the left flows past bothAtrax andLarisa, and after receiving the rivers inThessaliotis flows on throughTempe to its outlet. Historians place theOichalia which is called the "city ofEurytus " not only in this region, but also inEuboea and inArcadia; and they give its name in different ways, as I have already said in my description of thePeloponnesus. They inquire concerning these, and particularly in regard to whatOichalia it was that was captured byHeracles, and concerning whatOichalia was meant by the poet who wrote The Capture ofOichalia. These places, then, were classed byHomer as subject to theAsclepiadae.
§ 9.5.18 Next he speaks of the country subject toEurypylus: "and those who held the fountainHypereia, and those who heldAsterium and the white summits ofTitanus." Now at the present timeOrmenium is calledOrminium; it is a village situated at the foot ofPelion near thePagasitic Gulf, one of the cities included in the settlement ofDemetrias, as I have said. And LakeBoebeis, also, must be near, sinceBoebe, as well asOrmenium itself, was one of the dependencies ofDemetrias. NowOrmenium is distant by land twenty-seven stadia fromDemetrias, whereas the site ofIolcus, which is situated on the road, is distant seven stadia fromDemetrias and the remaining twenty stadia fromOrmenium. TheScepsian says thatPhoenix was fromOrmenium, and that he fled thence from his fatherAmyntor the son ofOrmenus intoPhthia toPeleus the king; for this place, he adds, was founded byOrmenus the son ofCercaphus the son ofAeolus; and he says that bothAmyntor andEuaemon were sons ofOrmenus, and thatPhoenix was son of the former andEurypylus of the latter, but that the succession to the throne, to which both had equal right, was kept forEurypylus, inasmuch asPhoenix had gone away from his homeland. Furthermore, theScepsian writes thus, "as when first I leftOrmenium rich in flocks," instead of "I leftHellas, land of fair women." ButCrates makesPhoenix aPhocian, judging this from the helmet ofMeges, whichOdysseus used at the time of his night spying, concerning which the poet says, "Autolycus filched it fromEleon, fromAmyntor the son ofOrmenus, having broken into his close-built home." ForEleon, he says, is a town ofParnassus; andAmyntor, son ofOrmenus, means no other than the father ofPhoenix; andAutolycus, who lived onParnassus, must have broken into the house of a neighbor (as is the way of any housebreaker), and not into that of people far away. But theScepsian says that there is no place called Eleon to be seen onParnassus, though there is a place calledNeon, founded in fact after theTrojan War, and also that housebreakings are not confined to neighbors only. And there are other arguments which one might give, but I hesitate to spend further time on this subject. Others write "fromHeleon," butHeleon is a place in Tanagria, and this reading would increase the absurdity of the statement, "Then I fled afar off throughHellas and came toPhthia." The fountainHypereia is in the middle of the city of thePheraeans, which belonged toEumelus. It is absurd, therefore, to assign the fountain toEurypylus.Titanus was named from the fact in the case there; for the region nearArne andAphetae has white soil.Asterium, also, is not far from these.
§ 9.5.19 Continuous with this portion ofThessaly is the country of those who are called the subjects ofPolypoetes: "And those who heldArgissa and dwelt inGyrtone,Orthe, andElone and the white cityOloosson." In earlier times thePerrhaebians inhabited this country, dwelling in the part near the sea and near thePeneius, extending as far as its outlet andGyrton, aPerrhaebian city. Then theLapiths humbled thePerrhaebians and thrust them back into the river country in the interior, and seized their country — I mean theLapithsIxion and his sonPeirithous, the latter of whom also took possession ofPelion, forcing out theCentaurs, a wild folk, who had seized it. Now these "he thrust fromPelion and made them draw near to theAethices," and he gave over the plains to theLapiths, though thePerrhaebians kept possession of some of them, those nearOlympus, and also in some places lived completely intermingled with theLapiths. NowArgissa, the presentArgura, is situated on thePeneius; and forty stadia above it liesAtrax, which also is close to the river; and thePerrhaebians held the river country between the two places. Some have calledOrthe the acropolis of thePhalannaeans; andPhalanna is aPerrhaebian city close to thePeneius nearTempe. Now thePerrhaebians, being overpowered by theLapiths, for the most part emigrated to the mountainous country aboutPindus and to the countries of the Athamanians andDolopians, but their country and allPerrhaebians who were left behind there were seized by theLarisaeans, who lived near thePeneius and were their neighbors and dwelt in the most fertile parts of the plains, though not in the very low region near the lake calledNessonis, into which the river, when it overflowed, would carry away a portion of the arable soil belonging to theLarisaeans. Later, however, they corrected this by means of embankments. TheLarisaeans, then, kept possession ofPerrhaebia and exacted tribute untilPhilip established himself as lord over the region.Larisa is also the name of a place onOssa; another isLarisa Cremaste, by some calledPelasgia; and inCrete is a cityLarisa, now joined toHierapytna, whence the plain that lies below is now called Larisian Plain; and, in thePeloponnesus bothLarisa, the citadel of theArgives, and theLarisus River, which is the boundary between theEleian country andDyme.Theopompus speaks of another cityLarisa situated on the same common boundary; and inAsia is aLarisa Phryconis nearCyme; and also theLarisa near Hamaxitis in theTroad; and there is theEphesianLarisa, and theLarisa inSyria; and there are Larisaean Rocks fifty stadia fromMitylene on the road toMethymne; and there is aLarisa inAttica; and a villageLarisa thirty stadia distant fromTralleis, above the city, on the road which runs through Mesogis towards theCayster Plain near the sanctuary of the Isodromian Mother, which in its topographical position and its goodly attributes is likeLarisa Cremaste, for it has an abundance of water and of vineyards; and perhaps theLarisaeanZeus received his epithet from this place; and also on the left of thePontus is a village calledLarisa, betweenNaulochus and. . ., near the end of MountHaemus. AndOloosson, called "white" from the fact that its soil is a white clay, andElone, andGonnus arePerrhaebian cities. ButElone changed its name toLeimone, and is now in ruins. Both are situated belowOlympus, not very far from theEuropus River, which the poet calls theTitaresius.
§ 9.5.20 The poet next mentions bothTitaresius and thePerrhaebians, when he says, "AndGuneus led fromCyphus twenty-two ships. And there followed him the Enienians, and thePerrhaebians steadfast in war, who had established their homes round wintryDodona, and dwelt in the fields about lovelyTitaresius." Now he speaks of these places as belonging to thePerrhaebians, places which fell into their possession as a part ofHestiaeotis. And also the cities subject toPolypoetes were in partPerrhaebian. However, he assigned them to theLapiths because the two peoples lived intermingled with one another, and also because, although theLapiths held possession of the plains and thePerrhaebian element there were for the most part subject to theLapiths, thePerrhaebians held possession of the more mountainous parts nearOlympus andTempe, as, for example,Cyphus, andDodona, and the region about theTitaresius; this river rises in theTitarius Mountain, which connects withOlympus, and flows into the territory ofPerrhaebia which is nearTempe, and somewhere in that neighborhood unites with thePeneius. Now the water of thePeneius is pure, but that of theTitaresius is oily, because of some substance or other, so that it does not mingle with that of thePeneius, "but runs over it on the top like oil." Because of the fact that the two peoples lived intermingled,Simonides uses the termsPerrhaebians andLapiths of all thePelasgiotes who occupy the region aboutGyrton and the outlets of thePeneius and MountOssa and MountPelion, and the region aboutDemetrias, and the region in the plain, I meanLarisa,Crannon,Scotussa,Mopsium,Atrax, and the region about LakeNessonis and LakeBoebeis. Of these places the poet mentions only a few, because the rest of them had not yet been settled, or else were only wretched settlements, on account of the inundations which took place at various times. Indeed, he does not mention LakeNessonis either, but LakeBoebeis only (though it is much smaller), because the latter alone persisted, whereas the former, in all probability, was at times filled at irregular intervals and at times gave out altogether.Scotussa I have already mentioned in my account ofDodona and of the oracle inThessaly, saying that originally it was near this place. In the territory ofScotussa there is a place calledCynoscephalae, near whichTitus Quintius and the Romans, along with theAitolians, in a great battle conqueredPhilip the son ofDemetrius, king of theMacedonians.
§ 9.5.21 Magnetis, also, has been treated byHomer in about the same way. For although he has already enumerated many of the places inMagnetis, none of these are calledMagnetan by him except those two places, and even these are designated by him in a dim and indistinct way: "who dwelt aboutPeneius andPelion with its shaking foliage." Assuredly, however, about thePeneius andPelion lived those who heldGyrton, whom he had already named, as also those who heldOrmenium, and several otherPerrhaebian peoples; and yet farther away fromPelion there were stillMagnetans, beginning with those subject toEumelus, at least according to the writers of later times. These writers, however, on account of the continual migrations, changes of political administrations, and intermixture of tribes, seem to have confused both the names and the tribes, so that they sometimes present difficult questions for the writers of today. For example, this has proved true, in the first place, in the case ofCrannon andGyrton; for in earlier times theGyrtonians were called "Phlegyae," fromPhlegyas, the brother ofIxion, and theCrannonians "Ephyri," so that it is a difficult question who can be meant by the poet when he says, "Verily these twain, going forth fromThrace, arm themselves to pursue theEphyri, or to pursue the great-heartedPhlegyae."
§ 9.5.22 Again, the same thing is true in the case of thePerrhaebians andAenianians. ForHomer connected the two, as living near one another; and in fact we are told by the writers of later times that for a long time the habitation of theAenianians was in theDotian Plain. This plain is near thePerrhaebia just mentioned above, andOssa and LakeBoebeis; and while it is situated in the middle ofThessaly, yet it is enclosed all round by hills of its own. Concerning this plainHesiod has spoken thus: "Or as the unwedded virgin who, dwelling on the holyDidyman Hills, in theDotian Plain, in front ofAmyrus, bathed her foot in LakeBoebeis." Now as for theAenianians, most of them were driven intoOita by theLapiths; and there too they became predominant, having taken away certain parts of the country from theDorians and theMalians as far asHeracleia andEchinus, although some remained in the neighborhood ofCyphus, aPerrhaebian mountain which had a settlement of the same name. As for thePerrhaebians, some of them drew together round the western parts ofOlympus and stayed there, being neighbors to theMacedonians, but the greater part of them were driven out of their country into the mountains roundAthamania andPindus. But today little or no trace of them is preserved. At any rate, theMagnetans mentioned last by the poet in theThessalianCatalogue should be regarded as those insideTempe, extending from thePeneius andOssa as far asPelion, and bordering on thePieriotae inMacedonia, who held the country on the far side of thePeneius as far as the sea. NowHomolium, orHomole (for it is spelled both ways), should be assigned to theMagnetans; as I have said in my description ofMacedonia, it is close toOssa, situated where thePeneius begins to discharge its waters throughTempe. And if one were to proceed as far as the seacoast nearest toHomolium, there is reason for assigning to themRhizus andErymnae, which were situated on that part of the seacoast which was subject toPhiloctetes and on that which was subject toEumelus. However, let this question remain undecided. And also the order of the places next thereafter as far as thePeneius is not plainly told by the poet; but since these places are without repute, neither should I myself regard the matter as of great importance. CapeSepias, however, was afterwards celebrated both in tragedies and in hymns on account of the total destruction there of thePersian fleet.Sepias itself is a rocky cape, but between it andCasthanaea, a village situated at the foot ofPelion, is a beach where the fleet ofXerxes was lying in wait when, a violent east wind bursting forth, some of the ships were immediately driven high and dry on the beach and broken to pieces on the spot, and the others were carried along the coast toIpni, one of the rugged places in the region ofPelion, or toMeliboea, or toCasthanaea, and destroyed. The whole voyage along the coast ofPelion is rough, a distance of about eighty stadia; and that along the coast ofOssa is equally long and rough. Between is a gulf more than two hundred stadia in circuit, on which isMeliboea. The whole voyage along the coast fromDemetrias to thePeneius, following the sinuosities of the gulfs, is more than one thousand stadia in length, and from theSperchius eight hundred more, and from theEuripus two thousand three hundred and fifty.Hieronymus declares that the plain country ofThessaly andMagnetis is three thousand stadia in circuit, and that it was inhabited byPelasgians, and that these were driven out of their country by theLapiths, and that the presentPelasgian Plain, as it is called, is that in which are situatedLarisa,Gyrtone,Pherae,Mopsium,Boebeis,Ossa,Homole,Pelion, andMagnetis.Mopsium is named, not afterMopsus, the son ofManto the daughter ofTeiresias, but afterMopsus theLapith who sailed with theArgonauts. But Mopsopus, after whom theAttic Mopsopia is named, is a different person.
§ 9.5.23 So much, then, for the several parts ofThessaly. But speaking of it as a whole, I may say that in earlier times it was called Pyrrhaea, afterPyrrha the wife ofDeucalion, andHaemonia afterHaemon, andThessaly afterThessalus the son ofHaemon. But some writers, dividing it into two parts, say thatDeucalion obtained the portion towards the south and called itPandora after his mother, and that the other part fell toHaemon, after whom it was calledHaemonia, but that the former name was changed toHellas, afterHellen the son ofDeucalion, and the latter toThessaly, after the son ofHaemon. Some, however, say that descendants ofAntiphus andPheidippus, the sons ofThessalus the son ofHeracles, invaded the country fromThesprotianEphyra and named it afterThessalus, their own ancestor. And it has been said that the country too was once namedNessonis, like the lake, afterNesson the son ofThessalus.
§ 10.1.1 SinceEuboea lies parallel to the whole of the coast fromSounion toThessaly, with the exception of the ends on either side, it would be appropriate to connect my description of the island with that of the parts already described before passing on toAitolia andAcarnania, which are the remaining parts of Europe to be described.
§ 10.1.2 In its length, then, the island extends parallel to the coast for a distance of about one thousand two hundred stadia fromKenaion toGeraistos, but its breadth is irregular and generally only about one hundred and fifty stadia. NowKenaion lies opposite toThermopylae and, to a slight extent, to the region outsideThermopylae, whereasGeraistos andPetalia lie towardsSounion. Accordingly, the island lies across the strait and oppositeAttica,Boeotia,Locris, and theMalians. Because of its narrowness and of the above-mentioned length, it was namedMacris by the ancients. It approaches closest to the mainland atChalcis, where it juts out in a convex curve towards the region ofAulis inBoeotia and forms theEuripus. Concerning theEuripus I have already spoken rather at length, as also to a certain extent concerning the places which lie opposite one another across the strait, both on the mainland and on the island, on either side of theEuripus, that is, the regions both inside and outside theEuripus. But if anything has been left out, I shall now explain more fully. And first, let me explain that the parts betweenAulis and the region ofGeraistos are called theHollows ofEuboea; for the coast bends inwards, but when it approachesChalcis it forms a convex curve again towards the mainland.
§ 10.1.3 The island was called, not only Macris, but alsoAbantis; at any rate, the poet, although he namesEuboea, never names its inhabitants "Euboeans," but always "Abantes": "And those who heldEuboea, the courage-breathingAbantes . . . 5"And with him followed theAbantes. 7Aristotle says thatThracians, setting out from thePhocian Aba, recolonized the island and renamed those who held it "Abantes." Others derive the name from a hero, just as they derive "Euboea" from a heroine. But it may be, just as a certain cave on the coast which fronts theAegean, whereIo is said to have given birth toEpaphus, is called BoosAule, that the island got the nameEuboea from the same cause. The island was also calledOche; and the largest of its mountains bears the same name. And it was also namedEllopia, afterEllops the son ofIon. Some say that he was the brother ofAiclus andCothus; and he is also said to have foundedEllopia, a place inOria, as it is called, inHistiaeotis near the mountainTelethrius, and to have added to his dominionsHistiaea, Perias,Cerinthus,Aedepsus, andOrobia; in this last place was an oracle most averse to falsehood (it was an oracle ofApollo Selinaios (Selinuntius in ms). TheEllopians migrated toHistiaea and enlarged the city, being forced to do so byPhilistides the tyrant, after the battle ofLeuctra.Demosthenes says thatPhilistides was set up byPhilip as tyrant of theOreitae too; for thus in later times theHistiaeans were named, and the city was namedOreus instead ofHistiaea. But according to some writers,Histiaea was colonized byAthenians from the deme of theHistiaeans, asEretria was colonized from that of theEretrians.Theopompus says that whenPericles overpoweredEuboea theHistiaeans by agreement migrated toMacedonia, and that two thousandAthenians who formerly composed the deme of theHistiaeans came and took up their abode inOreus.
§ 10.1.4 Oreus is situated at the foot of the mountainTelethrius in theDrymus, as it is called, on the RiverCallas, upon a high rock; and hence, perhaps, it was because theEllopians who formerly inhabited it were mountaineers that the nameOreus was assigned to the city. It is also thought thatOrion was so named because he was reared there. Some writers say that theOreitae had a city of their own, but because theEllopians were making war on them they migrated and took up their abode with theHistiaeans; and that, although they became one city, they used both names, just as the same city is called bothLacedemon andSparta. As I have already said,Histiaeotis inThessaly was also named after theHistiaeans who were carried off from here into the mainland by thePerrhaebians.
§ 10.1.5 SinceEllopia induced me to begin my description withHistiaea andOreus, let me speak of the parts which border on these places. In the territory of thisOreus lies, not onlyKenaion, nearOreus, but also, nearKenaion,Dium andAthenae Diades, the latter founded by theAthenians and lying above that part of the strait where passage is taken across toCynus; andCanae inAeolis was colonized fromDium. Now these places are in the neighborhood ofHistiaea; and so isCerinthus, a small city by the sea; and near it is theBudorus River, which bears the same name as the mountain inSalamis which is close toAttica.
§ 10.1.6 Carystus is at the foot of the mountainOche; and near it areStyra andMarmarium, in which latter are the quarry of theCarystian columns and a sanctuary ofApolloMarmarinus; and from here there is a passage across the strait toHalae Araphenides. InCarystus is produced also the stone which is combed and woven, so that the woven material is made into towels, and, when these are soiled, they are thrown into fire and cleansed, just as linens are cleansed by washing. These places are said to have been settled by colonists from theMarathonianTetrapolis and bySteirians.Styra was destroyed in theMalian war byPhaedrus, the general of theAthenians; but the country is held by theEretrians. There is also aCarystus in theLaconian country, a place belonging toAegys, towardsArcadia; whence the Carystian wine of whichAlcman speaks.
§ 10.1.7 Geraistos is not named in theCatalogue of Ships, but still the poet mentions it elsewhere: "and at night they landed atGeraistos. And he plainly indicates that the place is conveniently situated for those who are sailing across fromAsia toAttica, since it comes near toSounion. It has asanctuary ofPoseidon, the most notable of those in that part of the world, and also a noteworthy settlement.
§ 10.1.8 AfterGeraistos one comes toEretria, the greatest city inEuboea exceptChalcis; and then toChalcis, which in a way is the metropolis of the island, being situated on theEuripus itself. Both are said to have been founded by theAthenians before theTrojan War. And after theTrojan War,Aiclus andCothus, setting out fromAthens, settled inhabitants in them, the former inEretria and the latter inChalcis. There were also someAeolians from the army ofPenthilus who remained in the island, and, in ancient times, someArabians who had crossed over withCadmus. Be this as it may, these cities grew exceptionally strong and even sent forth noteworthy colonies intoMacedonia; forEretria colonized the cities situated roundPallene andAthos, andChalcis colonized the cities that were subject toOlynthus, which later were treated outrageously byPhilip. And many places inItaly andSicily are alsoChalcidian. These colonies were sent out, asAristotle states, when the government of theHippobatae, as it is called, was in power; for at the head of it were men chosen according to the value of their property, who ruled in an aristocratic manner. At the time ofAlexander's passage across, theChalcidians enlarged the circuit of the walls of their city, taking inside them bothCanethus and theEuripus, and fortifying the bridge with towers and gates and a wall.
§ 10.1.9 Above the city of theChalcidians is situated theLelantine Plain. In this plain are fountains of hot water suited to the cure of diseases, which were used byCornelius Sulla, the Roman commander. And in this plain was also a remarkable mine which contained copper and iron together, a thing which is not reported as occurring elsewhere; now, however, both metals have given out, as in the case of the silver mines atAthens. The whole ofEuboea is much subject to earthquakes, but particularly the part near the strait, which is also subject to blasts through subterranean passages, as areBoeotia and other places which I have already described rather at length. And it is said that the city which bore the same name as the island was swallowed up by reason of a disturbance of this kind. This city is also mentioned byAeschylus in hisGlaucusPontius: "Euboeis, about the bending shore ofZeusCenaeus, near the very tomb of wretchedLichas. InAitolia, also, there is a place called by the same nameChalcis: "andChalcis near the sea, and rockyCalydon, and in the presentEleian country: "and they went past Cruni and rockyChalcis, that is,Telemachus and his companions, when they were on their way back fromNestor's to their homeland.
§ 10.1.10 As forEretria, some say that it was colonized fromTriphylianMacistus byEretrieus, but others say from the Eretria atAthens, which now is a marketplace. There is also anEretria nearPharsalus. In theEretrian territory there was a cityTamynae, sacred toApollo; and the sanctuary, which is near the strait, is said to have been founded byAdmetus, at whose house the god served as an hireling for a year. In earlier timesEretria was called Melaneis and Arotria. The villageAmarynthus, which is seven stadia distant from the walls, belongs to this city. Now the old city was razed to the ground by thePersians, who "netted" the people, asHerodotus says, by means of their great numbers, the barbarians being spread about the walls (the foundations are still to be seen, and the place is called OldEretria); but theEretria of today was founded on it. As for the power theEretrians once had, this is evidenced by the pillar which they once set up in the sanctuary ofArtemisAmarynthia. It was inscribed thereon that they made their festal procession with three thousand heavy-armed soldiers, six hundred horsemen, and sixty chariots. And they ruled over the peoples ofAndros,Teos,Ceos, and other islands. They received new settlers fromElis; hence, since they frequently used the letter r, not only at the end of words, but also in the middle, they have been ridiculed by comic writers. There is also a villageOichalia in theEretrian territory, the remains of the city which was destroyed byHeracles; it bears the same name as theTrachinian Oichalia and that nearTricce, and theArcadianOichalia, which the people of later times calledAndania, and thatOichalia inAitolia in the neighborhood of theEurytanians.
§ 10.1.11 Now at the present timeChalcis by common consent holds the leading position and is called the metropolis of theEuboeans; andEretria is second. Yet even in earlier times these cities were held in great esteem, not only in war, but also in peace; indeed, they afforded philosophers a pleasant and undisturbed place of abode. This is evidenced by the school of theEretrian philosophers,Menedemus and his disciples, which was established inEretria, and also, still earlier, by the sojourn ofAristotle inChalcis, where he also ended his days.
§ 10.1.12 Now in general these cities were in accord with one another, and when differences arose concerning theLelantine Plain they did not so completely break off relations as to wage their wars in all respects according to the will of each, but they came to an agreement as to the conditions under which they were to conduct the fight. This fact, among others, is disclosed by a certain pillar in theAmarynthium, which forbids the use of long distance missiles. In fact among all the customs of warfare and of the use of arms there neither is, nor has been, any single custom; for some use long distance missiles, as, for example, bowmen and slingers and javelin-throwers, whereas others use close-fighting arms, as, for example, those who use sword, or outstretched spear; for the spear is used in two ways, one in hand-to-hand combat and the other for hurling like a javelin; just as the pike serves both purposes, for it can be used both in close combat and as a missile for hurling, which is also true of the sarissa and the hyssus.
§ 10.1.13 TheEuboeans excelled in "standing" combat, which is also called "close" and "hand-to-hand" combat; and they used their spears outstretched, as the poet says: "spearmen eager with outstretched ashen spears to shatter corselets. Perhaps the javelins were of a different kind, such as probably was the "Pelian ashen spear," which, as the poet says,"Achilles alone knew how to hurl; and he who said, "And the spear I hurl farther than any other man can shoot an arrow, means the javelin-spear. And those who fight in single combat are first introduced as using javelin-spears, and then as resorting to swords. And close fighters are not those who use the sword alone, but also the spear hand-to-hand, as the poet says: "he pierced him with bronze-tipped polished spear, and loosed his limbs. Now he introduces theEuboeans as using this mode of fighting, but he says the contrary of theLocrians, that "they cared not for the tolls of close combat, . . . but relying on bows and well-twisted slings ofsheep's wool they followed with him toIlium. There is current, also, an oracle which was given out to the people ofAegium,"Thessalianhorse,Lacedemonian woman, and men who drink the water of sacredArethusa, meaning that theChalcidians are best of all, forArethusa is in their territory.
§ 10.1.14 There are now two rivers inEuboea, the Cereus and theNeleus; and thesheep which drink from one of them turn white, and from the other black. A similar thing takes place in connection with theCrathis River, as I have said before.
§ 10.1.15 When theEuboeans were returning fromTroy, some of them, after being driven out of their course toIllyria, set out for home throughMacedonia, but remained in the neighborhood ofEdessa, after aiding in war those who had received them hospitably; and they founded a city Euboe. There was also aEuboia inSicily, which was founded by the Chalcidians ofSicily, but they were driven out of it byGelon; and it became a stronghold of theSyracusans. InCorcyra, also, and inLemnos, there were places calledEuboea; and in theArgive country a hill of that name.
§ 10.1.16 Since theAitolians,Acarnanians, andAthamanians (if these too are to be called Greeks) live to the west of theThessalians and theOitaeans, it remains for me to describe these three, in order that I may complete the circuit of Greece; I must also add the islands which lie nearest to Greece and are inhabited by the Greeks, so far as I have not already included them in my description.
§ 10.2.1 AitoliansAcarnanians Now theAitolians and theAcarnanians border on one another, having between them theAchelous River, which flows from the north and fromPindus on the south through the country of theAgraeans, anAitolian tribe, and through that of theAmphilochians, theAcarnanians holding the western side of the river as far as that part of theAmbracian Gulf which is nearAmphilochi and the sanctuary of theActianApollo, but theAitolians the eastern side as far as theOzolian Locrians andParnassus and theOitaeans. Above theAcarnanians, in the interior and the parts towards the north, are situated theAmphilochians, and above these theDolopians andPindus, and above theAitolians are thePerrhaebians andAthamanians and a part of theAenianians who holdOita. The southern side, ofAcarnania andAitolia alike, is washed by the sea which forms theCorinthian Gulf, into which empties theAchelous River, which forms the boundary between the coast of theAitolians and that ofAcarnania. In earlier times theAchelous was calledThoas. The river which flows pastDyme bears the same name as this, as I have already said, and also the river nearLamia. I have already stated, also, that theCorinthian Gulf is said to begin at the mouth of this river.
§ 10.2.2 As for cities, those of theAcarnanians areAnactorium, which is situated on a peninsula nearActium and is a trading center of theNicopolis of today, which was founded in our times;Stratus, where one may sail up theAchelous River more than two hundred stadia; andOineiadae, which is also on the river — the old city, which is equidistant from the sea and fromStratus, being uninhabited, whereas that of today lies at a distance of about seventy stadia above the outlet of the river. There are also other cities,Palaerus,Alyzia,Leucas,Argos Amphilochicum , andAmbracia, most of which, or rather all, have become dependencies ofNicopolis.Stratus is situated about midway of the road betweenAlyzia andAnactorium.
§ 10.2.3 The cities of theAitolians areCalydon andPleuron, which are now indeed reduced, though in early times these settlements were an ornament to Greece. Further,Aitolia has come to be divided into two parts, one part being called OldAitolia and the otherAitolia Epictetus. The OldAitolia was the seacoast extending from theAchelous toCalydon, reaching for a considerable distance into the interior, which is fertile and level; here in the interior lieStratus andTrichonium, the latter having excellent soil.Aitolia Epictetus is the part which borders on the country of theLocrians in the direction ofNaupactus andEupalium, being a rather rugged and sterile country, and extends to theOitaean country and to that of theAthamanians and to the mountains and tribes which are situated next beyond these towards the north.
§ 10.2.4 Aitolia also has a very large mountain,Corax, which borders onOita; and it has among the rest of its mountains, and more in the middle of the country thanCorax,Aracynthus, near whichNew Pleuron was founded by the inhabitants of theold, who abandoned their city, which had been situated nearCalydon in a district both fertile and level, at the time whenDemetrius, surnamed Aetolicus, laid waste the country; aboveMolycreia areTaphiassus andChalcis, rather high mountains, on which were situated the small citiesMacynia andChalcis, the latter bearing the same name as the mountain, though it is also calledHypochalcis. NearOld Pleuron is the mountain Curium, after which, as some have supposed, thePleuronianCuretes were named.
§ 10.2.5 TheEvenus River begins in the territory of those Bomians who live in the country of the Ophians, the Ophians being anAitolian tribe (like theEurytanians andAgraeans andCuretes and others), and flows at first, not through the Curetan country, which is the same as thePleuronian, but through the more easterly country, pastChalcis andCalydon; and then, bending back towards the plains of OldPleuron and changing its course to the west, it turns towards its outlets and the south. In earlier times it was calledLycormas. And thereNessus, it is said, who had been appointed ferryman, was killed byHeracles because he tried to violateDeianeira when he was ferrying her across the river.
§ 10.2.6 The poet also namesOlenus andPylene asAitolian cities. Of these, the former, which bears the same name as theAchaean city, was razed to the ground by theAeolians; it was nearNew Pleuron, but theAcarnanians claimed possession of the territory. The other,Pylene, theAeolians moved to higher ground, and also changed its name, calling itProschium.Hellanicus does not know the history of these cities either, but mentions them as though they too were still in their early status; and among the early cities he namesMacynia andMolycreia, which were founded even later than the return of theHeracleidae, almost everywhere in his writings displaying a most convenient carelessness.
§ 10.2.7 Upon the whole, then, this is what I have to say concerning the country of theAcarnanians and theAitolians, but the following is also to be added concerning the seacoast and the islands which lie off it: Beginning at the mouth of theAmbracian Gulf the first place which belongs to theAcarnanians isActium. The sanctuary of theActianApollo bears the same name, as also the cape which forms the mouth of the Gulf and has a harbor on the outer side.Anactorium, which is situated on the gulf, is forty stadia distant from the sanctuary, whereasLeucas is two hundred and forty.
§ 10.2.8 In early timesLeucas was a peninsula ofAcarnania, but the poet calls it "shore of the mainland," using the term "mainland" for the country which is situated across fromIthaca andCephallenia; and this country isAcarnania. And therefore, when he says, "shore of the mainland," one should take it to mean "shore ofAcarnania." And toLeucas also belonged, not onlyNericus, whichLaertes says he took "(verily I tookNericus, well-built citadel, shore of the mainland, when I was lord over theCephallenians"), but also the cities whichHomer names in theCatalogue ("and dwell inCrocyleia and ruggedAegilips"). But theCorinthians sent byCypselus andGorgus took possession of this shore and also advanced as far as theAmbracian Gulf; and bothAmbracia andAnactorium were colonized at this time; and theCorinthians dug a canal through the isthmus of the peninsula and madeLeucas an island; and they transferredNericus to the place which, though once an isthmus, is now a strait spanned by abridge, and they changed its name toLeucas, which was named, as I think, afterLeucatas; forLeucatas is a rock of white color jutting out fromLeucas into the sea and towardsCephallenia and therefore it took its name from its color.
§ 10.2.9 It contains the sanctuary ofApolloLeucatas, and also the "Leap," which was believed to put an end to the longings of love."WhereSappho is said to have been the first, asMenander says, "when through frantic longing she was chasing the haughtyPhaon, to fling herself with a leap from the far-seen rock, calling upon thee in prayer, O lord and master. Now althoughMenander says thatSappho was the first to take the leap, yet those who are better versed than he in antiquities say that it wasCephalus, who was in love withPterelas the son ofDeioneus. It was an ancestral custom among theLeucadians, every year at the sacrifice performed in honor ofApollo, for some criminal to be flung from this rocky look-out for the sake of averting evil, wings and birds of all kinds being fastened to him, since by their fluttering they could lighten the leap, and also for a number of men, stationed all round below the rock in small fishing-boats, to take the victim in, and, when he had been taken on board, to do all in their power to get him safely outside their borders. The author of theAlcmaeonis says thatIcarius, the father ofPenelope, had two sons,Alyzeus andLeucadius, and that these two reigned overAcarnania with their father; accordingly,Ephorus thinks that thecities were named after these.
§ 10.2.10 But though at the present time only the people of the islandCephallenia are calledCephallenians,Homer so calls all who were subject toOdysseus, among whom are also theAcarnanians. For after saying, "butOdysseus led theCephallenians, who heldIthaca andNeritum with quivering foliage" (Neritum being the famous mountain on this island, as also when he says, "and those fromDulichium and the sacredEchinades,"Dulichium itself being one of theEchinades; and "those who dwelt inBuprasium andElis,"Buprasium being inElis; and "those who heldEuboea andChalcis andEiretria, meaning that these cities were inEuboea; and "Trojans andLycians and Dardanians", meaning that theLycians and Dardanians wereTrojans) — however, after mentioning "Neritum, he says, "and dwelt inCrocyleia and ruggedAegilips, and those who heldZacynthos and those who dwelt aboutSamos, and those who held the mainland and dwelt in the parts over against the islands." By "mainland," therefore, he means the parts over against the islands, wishing to include, along withLeucas, the rest ofAcarnania as well, concerning which he also speaks in this way, "twelve herd on the mainland, and as many flocks ofsheep, perhaps because Epeirotis extended thus far in early times and was called by the general name "mainland." But by "Samos" he means theCephallenia of today, as, when he says, "in the strait betweenIthaca and ruggedSamos; for by the epithet he differentiates between the objects bearing the same name, thus making the name apply, not to the city, but to the island. For the island was a tetrapolis, and one of its four cities was the city called indifferently eitherSamos orSame, bearing the same name as the island. And when the poet says, "for all the nobles who hold sway over the islands,Dulichium andSame and woodyZacynthos, he is evidently making an enumeration of the islands and calling "Same" that island which he had formerly calledSamos. ButApollodorus, when he says in one passage that ambiguity is removed by the epithet when the poet says "and ruggedSamos, showing that he meant the island, and then, in another passage, says that one should copy the reading,"Dulichium andSamos, instead of "Same," plainly takes the position that the city was called "Same" or "Samos" indiscriminately, but the island "Samos" only; for that the city was calledSame is clear, according toApollodorus, from the fact that, in enumerating the wooers from the several cities, the poet said, "fromSame came four and twenty men, and also from the statement concerning Ktimene, "they then sent her toSame to wed. But this is open to argument, for the poet does not express himself distinctly concerning eitherCephallenia orIthaca and the other places near by; and consequently both the commentators and the historians are at variance with one another.
§ 10.2.11 For instance, whenHomer says in regard toIthaca, "those who heldIthaca andNeritum with quivering foliage, he clearly indicates by the epithet that he means the mountainNeritum; and in other passages he expressly calls it a mountain; "but I dwell in sunnyIthaca, wherein is a mountain,Neritum, with quivering leaves and conspicuous from afar. But whether byIthaca he means the city or the island, is not clear, at least in the following verse, "those who heldIthaca andNeritum; for if one takes the word in its proper sense, one would interpret it as meaning the city, just as though one should say "Athens andLycabettus," or "Rhodes andAtabyris," or "Lacedemon andTaygetus"; but if he takes it in a poetical sense the opposite is true. However, in the words, "but I dwell in sunnyIthaca, wherein is a mountain,Neritum, his meaning is clear, for the mountain is in the island, not in the city. But when he says as follows, "we have come fromIthaca belowNeium, it is not clear whether he means thatNeium is the same asNeritum or different, or whether it is a mountain or place. However, the critic who writesNericum instead ofNeritum, or the reverse, is utterly mistaken; for the poet refers to the latter as "quivering with foliage," but to the former as "well-built citadel," and to the latter as "inIthaca," but to the former as "shore of the mainland."
§ 10.2.12 The following verse also is thought to disclose a sort of contradiction: "NowIthaca itself lies chthamale, panypertate on the sea; for chthamale means "low," or "on the ground," whereas panypertate means "high up," asHomer indicates in several places when he callsIthaca "rugged." And so when he refers to the road that leads from the harbor as "rugged path up through the wooded place, and when he says "for not one of the islands which lean upon the sea is eudeielos or rich in meadows, andIthaca surpasses them all. Now althoughHomer's phraseology presents incongruities of this kind, yet they are not poorly explained; for, in the first place, writers do not interpret chthamale as meaning "low-lying" here, but "lying near the mainland," since it is very close to it, and, secondly, they do not interpret panypertate as meaning "highest," but "highest towards the darkness," that is, farthest removed towards the north beyond all the others; for this is what he means by "towards the darkness," but the opposite by "towards the south," as in "but the other islands lie aneuthe towards the dawn and the sun, for the word aneuthe is "at a distance," or "apart," implying that the other islands lie towards the south and farther away from the mainland, whereasIthaca lies near the mainland and towards the north. ThatHomer refers in this way to the southerly region is clear also from these words, "whether they go to the right, towards the dawn and the sun, or yet to the left towards the misty darkness, and still more clear from these words, "my friends, lo, now we know not where is the place of darkness, nor of dawn, nor where the sun, that gives light to men, goes beneath the earth; nor where he rises. For it is indeed possible to interpret this as meaning the four "climata," if we interpret "the dawn" as meaning the southerly region (and this has some plausibility), but it is better to conceive of the region which is along the path of the sun as set opposite to the northerly region, for the poetic words are intended to signify a considerable change in the celestial phenomena, not merely a temporary concealment of the "climata," for necessarily concealment ensues every time the sky is clouded, whether by day or by night; but the celestial phenomena change to a greater extent as we travel farther and farther towards the south or in the opposite direction. Yet this travel causes a hiding, not of the western or eastern sky, but only of the southern or northern, and in fact this hiding takes place when the sky is clear; for the pole is the most northerly point of the sky, but since the pole moves and is sometimes at our zenith and sometimes below the earth, the arctic circles also change with it and in the course of such travels sometimes vanish with it, so that you cannot know where the northern "clima" is, or even where it begins. And if this is true, neither can you know the opposite "clima." The circuit ofIthaca is about eighty stadia. So much forIthaca.
§ 10.2.13 As forCephallenia, which is a tetrapolis, the poet mentions by its present name neither it nor any of its cities except one,Same orSamos, which now no longer exists, though traces of it are to be seen midway of the passage toIthaca; and its people are calledSamaeans. The other three, however, survive even to this day in the little citiesPaleis,Pronesus, andCranii. And in our timeGaius Antonius, the uncle ofMarcus Antonius, founded still another city, when, after his consulship [63 BCE], which he held withCicero the orator, he went into exile, sojourned inCephallenia, and held the whole island in subjection as though it were his private estate. However, before he could complete the settlement he obtained permission to return home, and ended his days amid other affairs of greater importance.
§ 10.2.14 Some, however, have not hesitated to identifyCephallenia withDulichium, and others withTaphos, calling theCephalleniansTaphians, and likewiseTeleboans, and to say thatAmphitryon made an expedition thither withCephalus, the son ofDeioneus, whom, an exile fromAthens, he had taken along with him, and that whenAmphitryon seized the island he gave it over toCephalus, and that the island was named afterCephalus and the cities after his children. But this is not in accordance withHomer; for theCephallenians were subject toOdysseus andLaertes, whereasTaphos was subject toMentes: "I declare that I amMentes the son of wiseAnchialus, and I am lord over the oar lovingTaphians.Taphos is now calledTaphius. Neither isHellanicus in accord withHomer when he identifiesCephallenia withDulichium, forHomer makesDulichium and the remainder of theEchinades subject toMeges; and their inhabitants wereEpeians, who had come there fromElis; and it is on this account that he callsOtus theCyllenian "comrade ofPhyleides (Meges son of Phyleus) and ruler of the high-heartedEpeians; "butOdysseus led the high-heartedCephallenians. According toHomer, therefore, neither isCephalleniaDulichium nor isDulichium a part ofCephallenia, asAndron says; for theEpeians held possession ofDulichium, whereas theCephallenians held possession of the whole ofCephallenia and were subject toOdysseus, whereas theEpeians were subject toMeges. Neither isPaleis calledDulichium by the poet, asPherecydes writes. But that writer is most in opposition toHomer who identifiesCephallenia withDulichium, if it be true that "fifty-two" of the suitors were "fromDulichium" and "twenty-four fromSame"; for in that case would notHomer say that fifty-two came from the island as a whole and a half of that number less two from a single one of its four cities? However, if one grants this, I shall ask whatHomer can mean by "Same" in the passage,"Dulichium andSame and woodyZacynthos.
§ 10.2.15 Cephallenia lies oppositeAcarnania, at a distance of about fifty stadia fromLeucatas (some say forty), and about one hundred and eighty fromChelonatas. It has a perimeter of about three hundred stadia, is long, extending towardsEurus, and is mountainous. The largest mountain upon it isAenus, whereon is the sanctuary ofZeusAenesius; and where the island is narrowest it forms an isthmus so low-lying that it is often submerged from sea to sea. BothPaleis andCrannii are on the gulf near the narrows.
§ 10.2.16 BetweenIthaca andCephallenia is the small islandAsteria (the poet calls itAsteris), which theScepsian says no longer remains such as the poet describes it, "but in it are harbors safe for anchorage with entrances on either side;Apollodorus, however, says that it still remains so to this day, and mentions a townAlalcomenae upon it, situated on the isthmus itself.
§ 10.2.17 The poet also uses the name "Samos" for thatThrace which we now callSamothrace. And it is reasonable to suppose that he knows theIonianSamos, for he also appears to know of theIonian migration; otherwise he would not have differentiated between the places of the same name when referring toSamothrace, which he designates at one time by the epithet, "high on the topmost summit of woodySamos, the Thracian, and at another time by connecting it with the islands near it, "untoSamos andImbros and inhospitableLemnos. And again, "betweenSamos and ruggedImbros. He therefore knew theIonian island, although he did not name it; in fact it was not called by the same name in earlier times, but Melampylus, then Anthemis, thenParthenia, from the River Parthenius, the name of which was changed toImbrasus. Since, then, bothCephallenia andSamothrace were called Samos at the time of theTrojan War (for otherwiseHecabe would not be introduced as saying that he was for selling her children whom he might take captive "untoSamos and untoImbros"), and since theIonianSamos had not yet been colonized, it plainly got its name from one of the islands which earlier bore the same name. Whence that other fact is also clear, that those writers contradict ancient history who say that colonists came fromSamos after theIonian migration and the arrival ofTembrion and namedSamothrace Samos, since this story was fabricated by theSamians to enhance the glory of their island. Those writers are more plausible who say that the island came upon this name from the fact that lofty places are called "samoi," "for thence allIda was plain to see, and plain to see were the city ofPriam and the ships of theAchaeans But some say that the island was calledSamos after theSaii, theThracians who inhabited it in earlier times, who also held the adjacent mainland, whether theseSaii were the same people as theSapaei orSinti (the poet calls themSinties) or a different tribe. TheSaii are mentioned byArchilochus: "One of theSaii robbed me of my shield, which, a blameless weapon, I left behind me beside a bush, against my will.
§ 10.2.18 Of the islands classified as subject toOdysseus,Zacynthos remains to be described. It leans slightly more to the west of thePeloponnesus thanCephallenia and lies closer to the latter. The circuit ofZacynthos is one hundred and sixty stadia. It is about sixty stadia distant fromCephallenia. It is indeed a woody island, but it is fertile; and its city, which bears the same name, is worthy of note. The distance thence to the LibyanHesperides is three thousand three hundred stadia.
§ 10.2.19 To the east ofZacynthos andCephallenia are situated theEchinades Islands, among which isDulichium, now calledDolicha, and also what are called theOxeiae, which the poet called Thoae.Dolicha lies oppositeOineiadae and the outlet of theAchelous, at a distance of one hundred stadia fromAraxus, the promontory of theEleians; the rest of theEchinades (they are several in number, all poor soiled and rugged) lie off the outlet of theAchelous, the farthermost being fifteen stadia distant and the nearest five. In earlier times they lay out in the high sea, but the silt brought down by theAchelous has already joined some of them to the mainland and will do the same to others. It was this silt which in early times caused the country calledParacheloitis, which the river overflows, to be a subject of dispute, since it was always confusing the designated boundaries between theAcarnanians and theAitolians; for they would decide the dispute by arms, since they had no arbitrators, and the more powerful of the two would win the victory; and this is the cause of the fabrication of a certain myth, telling howHeracles defeatedAchelous and, as the prize of his victory, won the hand ofDeianeira, the daughter ofOineus, whomSophocles represents as speaking as follows: "For my suitor was a river-god, I meanAchelous, who would demand me of my father in three shapes, coming now as abull in bodily form, now as a gleamingserpent in coils, now with trunk of man and front ofox. Some writers add to the myth, saying that this was the horn ofAmaltheia, whichHeracles broke off fromAchelous and gave toOineus as a wedding gift. Others, conjecturing the truth from the myths, say that theAchelous, like the other rivers, was called "like abull" from the roaring of its waters, and also from the bendings of its streams, which were called Horns, and "like aserpent" because of its length and windings, and "with front ofox" for the same reason that he was called "bull-faced"; and thatHeracles, who in general was inclined to deeds of kindness, but especially forOineus, since he was to ally himself with him by marriage, regulated the irregular flow of the river by means of embankments and channels, and thus rendered a considerable part ofParacheloitis dry, all to pleaseOineus; and that this was the horn ofAmaltheia. Now, as for theEchinades, or theOxeiae,Homer says that they were ruled over in the time of theTrojan War byMeges,"who was begotten by the knightlyPhyleus, dear toZeus, who once changed his abode toDulichium because he was wroth with his father. His father wasAugeas, the ruler of theEleian country and theEpeians; and therefore theEpeians who set out forDulichium withPhyleus held these islands.
§ 10.2.20 The islands of theTaphians, or, in earlier times, of theTeleboans, among which wasTaphos,. now calledTaphius, were distinct from theEchinades; not in the matter of distances (for they lie near them), but in that they are classified as under different commanders,Taphians andTeleboans. Now in earlier timesAmphitryon made an expedition against them withCephalus the son ofDeioneus, an exile fromAthens, and gave over their government to him, but the poet says that they were marshalled underMentes, calling thempirates, as indeed all theTeleboans are said to bepirates. So much, then, for the islands lying offAcarnania.
§ 10.2.21 BetweenLeucas and theAmbracian Gulf is a salt lake, calledMyrtuntium. Next afterLeucas one comes toPalaerus andAlyzia, cities ofAcarnania; of these,Alyzia is fifteen stadia distant from the sea, where is a harbor sacred toHeracles and a sacred precinct. It is from this precinct that one of the commanders carried toRome the "Labours ofHeracles," works ofLysippus, which were lying out of place where they were, because it was a deserted region. Then one comes to CapeCrithote, and theEchinades, and the cityAstacus, which bears the same name as the city nearNicomedeia and Gulf Astacenus, the name being used in the feminine gender.Crithote also bears the same name as one of the little cities in the ThracianChersonesus. All parts of the coast between these places have good harbors. Then one comes toOiniadae and theAchelous; then to a lake of theOiniadae, calledMelite, which is thirty stadia in length and twenty in breadth; and to another lake,Cynia, which is twice the size ofMelite, both in length and in breadth; and to a third,Uria, which is much smaller than those. NowCynia empties into the sea, but the others lie about half a stadium above it. Then one comes to theEvenus, to which the distance fromActium is six hundred and seventy stadia. After theEvenus one comes to the mountainChalcis, whichArtemidorus has called Chalcia; then toPleuron; then to the villageHalicyrna, above which thirty stadia in the interior, liesCalydon; and nearCalydon is the sanctuary of theLaphrianApollo. Then one comes to the mountainTaphiassus; then to the cityMacynia; then toMolycreia and, near by, toAntirrhium, the boundary betweenAitolia andLocris, to which the distance from theEvenus is about one hundred and twenty stadia.Artemidorus, indeed, does not give this account of the mountain, whether we call itChalcis or Chalcia, since he places it between theAchelous andPleuron, butApollodorus, as I have said before, places bothChalcis andTaphiassus aboveMolycreia, and he also says thatCalydon is situated betweenPleuron andChalcis. Perhaps, however, we should postulate two mountains, one nearPleuron called Chalcis, and the other nearMolycreia calledChalcia. NearCalydon, also, is a lake, which is large and well supplied with fish; it is held by the Romans who live inPatrae.
§ 10.2.22 Apollodorus says that in the interior ofAcarnania there is a people called Erysichaeans, who are mentioned byAlcman: "nor yet an Erysichaean nor shepherd, but from the heights ofSardeis. ButOlenus, whichHomer mentions in theAitolian catalogue, was inAitolia, though only traces of it are left, nearPleuron at the foot ofAracynthus. Near it, also, wasLysimacheia; this, too, has disappeared; it was situated by the lake now calledLysimacheia, in earlier timesHydra, betweenPleuron and the cityArsinoe. In earlier timesArsinoe was only a village, and was calledConopa, but it was first founded as a city byArsinoe, who was both wife and sister ofPtolemy the Second; it was rather happily situated at the ford across theAchelous.Pylene has also suffered a fate similar to that ofOlenus. When the poet callsCalydon both "steep" and "rocky," one should interpret him as referring to the country; for, as I have said, they divided the country into two parts and assigned the mountainous part, orEpictetus, toCalydon and the level country toPleuron.
§ 10.2.23 At the present time both theAcarnanians and theAitolians, like many of the other tribes, have been exhausted and reduced to impotence by their continual wars. However, for a very long time theAitolians, together with theAcarnanians, stood firm, not only against theMacedonians and the other Greeks, but also finally against the Romans, when fighting for autonomy. But since they are often mentioned byHomer, as also both by the other poets and by historians, sometimes in words that are easy to interpret and about which there is no disagreement, and sometimes in words that are less intelligible (this has been shown in what I have already said about them), I should also add some of those older accounts which afford us a basis of fact to begin with, or are matters of doubt.
§ 10.2.24 For instance, in the case ofAcarnania,Laertes and theCephallenians acquired possession of it, as I have said; but as to what people held it before that time, many writers have indeed given an opinion, but since they do not agree in their statements, which have, however, a wide currency, there is left for me a word of arbitration concerning them. They say that the people who were called bothTaphians andTeleboans lived inAcarnania in earlier times, and that their leaderCephalus, who had been set up byAmphitryon as master over the islands aboutTaphos, gained the mastery over this country too. And from this fact they go on to add the myth thatCephalus was the first to take the leap fromLeucatas which became the custom, as I have said before. But the poet does not say that theTaphians were ruling theAcarnanians before theCephallenians andLaertes came over, but only that they were friends to theIthacans, and therefore, according to the poet, they either had not ruled over the region at all, or had yieldedAcarnania to theIthacans voluntarily, or had become joint occupants with them. It appears that also a colony fromLacedemon settled inAcarnania, I meanIcarius, father ofPenelope, and his followers; for in theOdyssey the poet represents bothIcarius and the brothers ofPenelope as living: "who shrink from going to the house of her father,Icarius, that he himself may exact the bride-gifts for his daughter, and, concerning her brothers, "for already her father and her brothers bid her marryEurymachus; for, in the first place, it is improbable that they were living inLacedemon, since in that caseTelemachus would not have lodged at the home ofMenelaus when he went toLacedemon, and, secondly, we have no tradition of their having lived elsewhere. But they say thatTyndareus and his brotherIcarius, after being banished byHippocoon from their homeland, went toThestius, the ruler of thePleuronians, and helped him to acquire possession of much of the country on the far side of theAchelous on condition that they should receive a share of it; thatTyndareus, however, went back home, having marriedLeda, the daughter ofThestius, whereasIcarius stayed on, keeping a portion ofAcarnania, and byPolycaste, the daughter of Lygaeus, begot bothPenelope and her brothers. Now I have already set forth that theAcarnanians were enumerated in theCatalogue of Ships, that they took part in the expedition toIlium, and that among these were named "those who lived on the 'shore,'" and also "those who held the mainland and dwelt in parts opposite." But as yet neither had the mainland been named "Acarnania" nor the shore "Leucas."
§ 10.2.25 Ephorus denies that they joined theTrojan expedition, for he says thatAlcmaeon, the son ofAmphiaraus, made an expedition withDiomedes and the otherEpigoni, and had brought to a successful issue the war against theThebans, and then joinedDiomedes and with him took vengeance upon the enemies ofOineus, after which he himself, first giving overAitolia to them, passed intoAcarnania and subdued it; and meanwhileAgamemnon attacked theArgives and easily prevailed over them, since the most of them had accompanied the army ofDiomedes; but a little later, when the expedition againstTroy confronted him, he conceived the fear that, when he was absent on the expedition,Diomedes and his army might come back home (and in fact it was reported that a great army had gathered round him) and seize the empire to which they had the best right, for one was the heir ofAdrastus and the other of his father; and accordingly, after thinking this all over,Agamemnon invited them both to resume possession ofArgos and to take part in the war; and althoughDiomedes was persuaded to take part in the expedition,Alcmaeon was vexed and refused to heed the invitation; and for this reason theAcarnanians alone refused to share in the expedition with the Greeks. And it was probably by following this account that theAcarnanians tricked the Romans, as they are said to have done, and obtained from them their autonomy, urging that they alone had had no part in the expedition against the ancestors of the Romans, for they were named neither in theAitolian catalogue nor separately, and in fact their name was not mentioned in the Epic poems at all.
§ 10.2.26 Ephorus, then, makesAcarnania subject toAlcmaeon even before theTrojan War; and he not only declares that theAmphilochian Argos was founded by him, but also says thatAcarnania was named afterAlcmaeon's sonAcarnan, and theAmphilochians afterAlcmaeon's brotherAmphilochus; therefore his account is to be cast out amongst those contrary to Homeric history. ButThucydides and others say thatAmphilochus, on his return from theTrojan expedition, was displeased with the state of affairs atArgos, and took up his abode in this country, some saying that he came by right of succession to the domain of his brother, others giving a different account. So much may be said of theAcarnanians specifically; I shall now speak of their history in a general way, in so far as their history is interwoven with that of theAitolians, in so far as I have thought best to add to my previous narrative.
§ 10.3.1 AitoliaCuretes As for theCuretes, some assign them to theAcarnanians, others to theAitolians; and some assert that they originated inCrete, but others inEuboea; but sinceHomer mentions them, I should first investigate his account. It is thought that he means that they wereAitolians rather thanAcarnanians, if indeed the sons ofPorthaon were"Agrius andMelas, and, the third,Oineus the knight; and they lived inPleuron and steepCalydon. These are bothAitolian cities, and are referred to in theAitolian catalogue; and therefore, since, even according to the poet, theCuretes obviously lived inPleuron, they would beAitolians. Those writers who oppose this view are misled byHomer's mode of expression when he says, "theCuretes were fighting, and theAitolians steadfast in battle, about the city ofCalydon; for, they add, neither would he have spoken appropriately if he had said, "theBoeotians and theThebans were fighting against one another"; or "theArgives and thePeloponnesians." But, as I have shown heretofore, this habit of expression not only is Homeric, but is much used by the other poets also. This interpretation, then, is easy to defend; but let those writers explain how the poet could catalogue thePleuronians among theAitolians if they were notAitolians or at least of the same race.
§ 10.3.2 Ephorus, after saying that theAitolians were a race which had never become subject to any other people, but throughout all time of which there is any record had remained undevastated, both because of the ruggedness of their country and because of their training in warfare, says at the outset that theCuretes held possession of the whole country, but whenAetolus, the son ofEndymion, arrived fromElis and overpowered them in war, theCuretes withdrew to what is now calledAcarnania, whereas theAitolians came back withEpeians and founded the earliest of the cities ofAitolia, and in the tenth generation after thatElis was settled byOxylus the son ofHaemon, who had crossed over fromAitolia. And he cites as evidence of all this two inscriptions, the one atTherma inAitolia (where it is their ancestral custom to hold their elections of magistrates), engraved on the base of the statue ofAetolus: "Founder of the country, once reared beside the eddies of theAlpheius, neighbor of the race-courses ofOlympia, son ofEndymion, thisAetolus has been set up by theAitolians as a memorial of his valor to behold; and the other inscription in the marketplace of theEleians on the statue ofOxylus: "Aetolus once left this autochthonous people, and through many a toil with the spear took possession of the land ofCuretis; but the tenth scion of the same stock,Oxylus, the son ofHaemon, founded this city in early times.
§ 10.3.3 Now through these inscriptionsEphorus correctly signifies the kinship of theEleians andAitolians with one another, since both inscriptions agree, not merely as to the kinship of the two peoples, but also that each people was the founder of the other, through which he successfully convicts of falsehood those who assert that, while theEleians were indeed colonists of theAitolians, theAitolians were not colonists of theEleians. But here, too,Ephorus manifestly displays the same inconsistency in his writing and his pronouncements as in the case of the oracle atDelphi, which I have already set forth; for, after saying thatAitolia has been undevastated throughout all times of which there is any record, and after saying also that in the beginning theCuretes held possession of this country, he should have added as a corollary to what he had already said that theCuretes continued to hold possession of theAitolian land down to his own time, for only thus could it have been rightly said that the land had been undevastated and that it had never come under the power of others; and yet, utterly forgetting his promise, he does not add this, but the contrary, that whenAetolus arrived fromElis and overpowered theCuretes in war, they withdrew intoAcarnania. What else, pray, is specifically characteristic of a devastation than being overpowered in war and abandoning the country? And this is evidenced also by the inscription among theEleians, forAetolus, it says, "through many a toil with the spear took possession of the land ofCuretis.
§ 10.3.4 Perhaps, however, one might say thatEphorus means thatAitolia was undevastated from the time when it got this name, that is, afterAetolus arrived there; butEphorus has deprived himself of the argument in support of this idea by saying in his next words that this, meaning the tribe of theEpeians, constituted the greatest part of the people who stayed on among theAitolians, but that later, whenAeolians, who at the same time withBoeotians had been compelled to migrate fromThessaly, were intermingled with them, they in common with these held possession of the country. Is it credible, pray, that without war they invaded the country of a different people and divided it up with its possessors, when the latter had no need of such a partnership? Or, since this is not credible, is it credible that those who were overpowered by arms came out on an equality with the victors? What else, pray, is devastation than being overpowered by arms?Apollodorus, also, says that, according to history, theHyantes leftBoeotia and settled among theAitolians. ButEphorus, as though he had achieved success in his argument, adds: "It is my wont to examine such matters as these with precision, whenever any matter is either altogether doubtful or falsely interpreted."
§ 10.3.5 But thoughEphorus is such, still he is better than others. AndPolybius himself, who praises him so earnestly, and says concerning the Greek histories thatEudoxus indeed gave a good account, butEphorus gave the best account of the foundings of cities, kinships, migrations, and original founders, "but I," he says, "shall show the facts as they now are, as regards both the position of places and the distances between them; for this is the most appropriate function of Chorography." But assuredly you,Polybius, who introduce "popular notions" concerning distances, not only in dealing with places outside of Greece, but also when treating Greece itself, must also submit to an accounting, not only toPoseidonius, and toApollodorus, but to several others as well. One should therefore pardon me as well, and not be vexed, if I make any mistakes when I borrow from such writers most of my historical material, but should rather be content if in the majority of cases I improve upon the accounts given by others, or if I add such facts as have elsewhere, owing to lack of knowledge, been left untold.
§ 10.3.6 Concerning theCuretes still further accounts, to the following effect, are given, some of them being more closely related to the history of theAitolians and theAcarnanians, others more remotely. More closely related are such accounts as I have given before — that theCuretes were living in the country which is now calledAitolia, and that theAitolians came withAetolus and drove them intoAcarnania; and also accounts of this kind, that, whenPleuronia was inhabited by theCuretes and was calledCuretis,Aeolians made an invasion and took it away from them, and drove out its occupants.Archemachus theEuboean says that theCuretes settled atChalcis, but since they were continually at war for theLelantine Plain and the enemy would catch them by the front hair and drag them down, he says, they let their hair grow long behind but cut short the part in front, and because of this they were called "Curetes," from the cut of their hair, and they then migrated toAitolia, and, after taking possession of the region roundPleuron, called the people who lived on the far side of theAchelous "Acarnanians," because they kept their heads "unshorn." But some say that each of the two tribes got its name from a hero; others, that theCuretes were named after the mountainCurium, which is situated aboutPleuron, and also that this is anAitolian tribe, like the Ophians and theAgraeans and theEurytanians and several others. But, as I have already stated, whenAitolia was divided into two parts, the region roundCalydon, they say, was in the possession ofOineus, whereas a certain part ofPleuronia was in the possession of the sons ofPorthaon, that is,Agrius and his followers, if it be true that "they lived inPleuron and steepCalydon; the mastery overPleuronia, however, was held byThestius (the father-in-law ofOineus and father ofAlthaea), who was leader of theCuretes; but when war broke out between the sons ofThestius, on the one hand, andOineus andMeleager, on the other ("about thehog's head and skin, as the poet says, following the mythical story of theboar, but in all probability about the possession of a part of the territory), according to the words of the poet, "theCuretes were fighting, as also theAitolians steadfast in battle." So much for the accounts which are more closely related.
§ 10.3.7 The accounts which are more remotely related, however, to the present subject, but are wrongly, on account of the identity of the names, brought into the same connection by the historians — I mean those accounts which, although they are called "Curetan History" and "History of theCuretes," just as if they were the history of thoseCuretes who lived inAitolia andAcarnania, not only are different from that history, but are more like the accounts of theSatyri,Sileni, Bacchae, andTityri; for theCuretes, like these, are called genii or ministers of gods by those who have handed down to us theCretan and thePhrygian traditions, which are interwoven with certain sacred rites, some mystical, the others connected in part with the rearing of the childZeus inCrete and in part with the orgies in honor of theMother of the Gods which are celebrated inPhrygia and in the region of theTrojanIda. But the variation in these accounts is so small that, whereas some represent theCorybantes, theCabeiri, theIdaeanDactyli, and theTelchines as identical with theCuretes, others represent them as all kinsmen of one another and differentiate only certain small matters in which they differ in respect to one another; but, roughly speaking and in general, they represent them, one and all, as a kind of inspired people and as subject to Bacchic frenzy, and, in the guise of ministers, as inspiring terror at the celebration of the sacred rites by means of war-dances, accompanied by uproar and noise and cymbals and drums and arms, and also by flute and outcry; and consequently these rites are in a way regarded as having a common relationship, I mean these and those of theSamothracians and those inLemnos and in several other places, because the divine ministers are called the same. However, every investigation of this kind pertains to theology, and is not foreign to the speculation of the philosopher.
§ 10.3.8 But since also the historians, because of the identity of name of theCuretes, have classed together things that are unlike, neither should I myself shrink from discussing them at greater length, by way of digression, adding such account of their physical habits as is appropriate to history. And yet some historians even wish to assimilate their physical habits with those others, and perhaps there is something plausible in their undertaking. For instance, they say that theCuretes ofAitolia got this name because, like "girls," they wore women's clothes, for, they add, there was a fashion of this kind among the Greeks, and theIonians were called "tunic-trailing," and the soldiers ofLeonidas were "dressing their hair" when they were to go forth to battle, so that thePersians, it is said, conceived a contempt for them, though in the battle they marvelled at them. Speaking generally, the art of caring for the hair consists both in its nurture and in the way it is cut, and both are given special attention by "girls" and "youths"; so that there are several ways in which it is easy to derive an etymology of the word "Curetes." It is reasonable to suppose, also, that the war-dance was first introduced by persons who were trained in this particular way in the matter of hair and dress, these being calledCuretes, and that this dance afforded a pretext to those also who were more warlike than the rest and spent their life under arms, so that they too came to be called by the same name, "Curetes " — I mean theCuretes inEuboea,Aitolia, andAcarnania. And indeedHomer applied this name to young soldiers, "choose thou the noblest young men from all theAchaeans, and bring the gifts from the swift ship, all that we promised yesterday toAchilles"; and again, "the young men of theAchaeans brought the gifts. So much for the etymology of the word "Curetes." The war-dance was a soldiers' dance; and this is plainly indicated both by the "Pyrrhic dance," and by "Pyrrichus," who is said to be the founder of this kind of training for young men, as also by the treatises on military affairs.
§ 10.3.9 But I must now investigate how it comes about that so many names have been used of one and the same thing, and the theological element contained in their history. Now this is common both to the Greeks and to the barbarians, to perform their sacred rites in connection with the relaxation of a festival, these rites being performed sometimes with religious frenzy, sometimes without it; sometimes with music, sometimes not; and sometimes in secret, sometimes openly. And it is in accordance with the dictates of nature that this should be so, for, in the first place, the relaxation draws the mind away from human occupations and turns the real mind towards that which is divine; and, secondly, the religious frenzy seems to afford a kind of divine inspiration and to be very like that of the soothsayer; and, thirdly, the secrecy with which the sacred rites are concealed induces reverence for the divine, since it imitates the nature of the divine, which is to avoid being perceived by our human senses; and, fourthly, music, which includes dancing as well as rhythm and melody, at the same time, by the delight it affords and by its artistic beauty, brings us in touch with the divine, and this for the following reason; for although it has been well said that human beings then act most like the gods when they are doing good to others, yet one might better say, when they are happy; and such happiness consists of rejoicing, celebrating festivals, pursuing philosophy, and engaging in music; for, if music is perverted when musicians turn their art to sensual delights at symposiums and in orchestric and scenic performances and the like, we should not lay the blame upon music itself, but should rather examine the nature of our system of education, since this is based on music.
§ 10.3.10 And on this accountPlato, and even before his time the Pythagoreians, called philosophy music; and they say that the universe is constituted in accordance with harmony, assuming that every form of music is the work of the gods. And in this sense, also, theMuses are goddesses, andApollo is leader of theMuses, and poetry as a whole is laudatory of the gods. And by the same course of reasoning they also attribute to music the upbuilding of morals, believing that everything which tends to correct the mind is close to the gods. Now most of the Greeks assigned toDionysus,Apollo,Hecate, theMuses, and above all toDemeter, everything of an orgiastic or Bacchic or choral nature, as well as the mystic element in initiations; and they give the name "Iacchus" not only toDionysus but also to the leader-in-chief of the mysteries, who is the genius ofDemeter. And branch-bearing, choral dancing, and initiations are common elements in the worship of these gods. As for theMuses andApollo, theMuses preside over the choruses, whereasApollo presides both over these and the rites of divination. But all educated men, and especially the musicians, are ministers of theMuses; and both these and those who have to do with divination are ministers ofApollo; and the initiated and torch-bearers and hierophants, ofDemeter; and theSileni andSatyri and Bacchae, and also theLenae andThyiae and Mimallones andNaides andNymphae and the beings calledTityri, ofDionysus.
§ 10.3.11 InCrete, not only these rites, but in particular those sacred toZeus, were performed along with orgiastic worship and with the kind of ministers who were in the service ofDionysus, I mean theSatyri. These ministers they called "Curetes," young men who executed movements in armour, accompanied by dancing, as they set forth the mythical story of the birth ofZeus; in this they introducedCronus as accustomed to swallow his children immediately after their birth, andRhea as trying to keep her travail secret and, when the child was born, to get it out of the way and save its life by every means in her power; and to accomplish this it is said that she took as helpers theCuretes, who, by surrounding the goddess with tambourines and similar noisy instruments and with war-dance and uproar, were supposed to strike terror intoCronus and without his knowledge to steal his child away; and that, according to tradition,Zeus was actually reared by them with the same diligence; consequently theCuretes, either because, being young, that is "youths," they performed this service, or because they "reared"Zeus "in his youth" (for both explanations are given), were accorded this appellation, as if they wereSatyrs, so to speak, in the service ofZeus. Such, then, were the Greeks in the matter of orgiastic worship.
§ 10.3.12 But as for theBerecyntes, a tribe ofPhrygians, and thePhrygians in general, and those of theTrojans who live roundIda, they too holdRhea in honor and worship her with orgies, calling herMother of the Gods andAgdistis andPhrygia theGreat Goddess, and also, from the places where she is worshipped,Idaea andDindymene and Sipylene andPessinuntis andCybele andCybebe. The Greeks use the same name "Curetes" for the ministers of the goddess, not taking the name, however, from the same mythical story, but regarding them as a different set of "Curetes," helpers as it were, analogous to theSatyri; and the same they also callCorybantes.
§ 10.3.13 The poets bear witness to such views as I have suggested. For instance, whenPindar, in the dithyramb which begins with these words, "In earlier times there marched the lay of the dithyrambs long drawn out, mentions the hymns sung in honor ofDionysus, both the ancient and the later ones, and then, passing on from these, says, "To perform the prelude in thy honor, great Mother, the whirling of cymbals is at hand, and among them, also, the clanging of castanets, and the torch that blazeth beneath the tawny pine-trees, he bears witness to the common relationship between the rites exhibited in the worship ofDionysus among the Greeks and those in the worship of theMother of the Gods among thePhrygians, for he makes these rites closely akin to one another. AndEuripides does likewise, in his Bacchae, citing theLydian usages at the same time with those ofPhrygia, because of their similarity: "But ye who left Mt.Tmolus, fortress ofLydia, revel-band of mine, women whom I brought from the land of barbarians as my assistants and travelling companions, uplift the tambourines native toPhrygian cities, inventions of mine and motherRhea. And again, "happy he who, blest man, initiated in the mystic rites, is pure in his life, . . . who, preserving the righteous orgies of the great motherCybele, and brandishing the thyrsus on high, and wreathed with ivy, doth worshipDionysus. Come, ye Bacchae, come, ye Bacchae, bringing downBromius, god the child of god, out of thePhrygian mountains into the broad highways of Greece. And again, in the following verses he connects theCretan usages also with thePhrygian: "O thou hiding-bower of theCuretes, and sacred haunts ofCrete that gave birth toZeus, where for me the triple-crestedCorybantes in their caverns invented this hide-stretched circlet, and blent its Bacchic revelry with the high-pitched, sweet-sounding breath ofPhrygian flutes, and inRhea's hands placed its resounding noise, to accompany the shouts of theBacchae, and from MotherRhea frenziedSatyrs obtained it and joined it to the choral dances of theTrieterides, in whomDionysus takes delight. And in thePalamedes the Chorus says, "Thysa, daughter ofDionysus, who onIda rejoices with his dear mother in the Iacchic revels of tambourines.
§ 10.3.14 And when they bringSeilenus andMarsyas andOlympus into one and the same connection, and make them the historical inventors of flutes, they again, a second time, connect the Dionysiac and thePhrygian rites; and they often in a confused manner drum onIda andOlympus as the same mountain. Now there are four peaks ofIda calledOlympus, near Antandria; and there is also theMysianOlympus, which indeed borders onIda, but is not the same. At any rate,Sophocles, in hisPolyxena, representingMenelaus as in haste to set sail fromTroy, butAgamemnon as wishing to remain behind for a short time for the sake of propitiatingAthena, introducesMenelaus as saying, "But do thou, here remaining, somewhere in theIdaean land collect flocks ofOlympus and offer them in sacrifice.
§ 10.3.15 They invented names appropriate to the flute, and to the noises made by castanets, cymbals, and drums, and to their acclamations and shouts of "ev-ah," and stampings of the feet; and they also invented some of the names by which to designate the ministers, choral dancers, and attendants upon the sacred rites, I mean "Cabeiri" and "Corybantes" and "Pans" and "Satyri" and "Tityri," and they called the god "Bacchus," andRhea "Cybele" or "Cybebe" or "Dindymene" according to the places where she was worshipped.Sabazius also belongs to thePhrygian group and in a way is the child of the Mother, since he too transmitted the rites ofDionysus.
§ 10.3.16 Also resembling these rites are the Cotytian and the Bendideian rites practiced among theThracians, among whom the Orphic rites had their beginning. Now theCotys who is worshipped among theEdonians, and also the instruments used in her rites, are mentioned byAeschylus; for he says, "O adorableCotys among theEdonians, and ye who hold mountain-ranging instruments; and he mentions immediately afterwards the attendants ofDionysus: "one, holding in his hands the bombyces, toilsome work of the turner's chisel, fills full the fingered melody, the call that brings on frenzy, while another causes to resound the bronze-bound cotylae and again, "stringed instruments raise their shrill cry, and frightful mimickers from some place unseen bellow likebulls, and the semblance of drums, as of subterranean thunder, rolls along, a terrifying sound; for these rites resemble thePhrygian rites, and it is at least not unlikely that, just as thePhrygians themselves were colonists fromThrace, so also their sacred rites were borrowed from there. Also when they identifyDionysus and theEdonianLycurgus, they hint at the homogeneity of their sacred rites.
§ 10.3.17 From its melody and rhythm and instruments, all Thracian music has been considered to be Asiatic. And this is clear, first, from the places where theMuses have been worshipped, forPieria andOlympus andPimpleia andLeibethrum were in ancient times Thracian places and mountains, though they are now held by theMacedonians; and again,Helicon was consecrated to theMuses by theThracians who settled inBoeotia, the same who consecrated thecave of the nymphs calledLeibethrides. And again, those who devoted their attention to the music of early times are calledThracians, I meanOrpheus,Musaeus, andThamyris; andEumolpus, too, got his name from there. And those writers who have consecrated the whole ofAsia, as far asIndia, toDionysus, derive the greater part of music from there. And one writer says, "striking the Asiatic cithara"; another calls flutes "Berecyntian" and "Phrygian"; and some of the instruments have been called by barbarian names, "nablas," "sambyce," "barbitos," "magadis," and several others.
§ 10.3.18 Just as in all other respects theAthenians continue to be hospitable to things foreign, so also in their worship of the gods; for they welcomed so many of the foreign rites that they were ridiculed therefore by comic writers; and among these were the Thracian andPhrygian rites. For instance, the Bendideian rites are mentioned byPlato, and thePhrygian byDemosthenes, when he casts the reproach uponAeschines' mother andAeschines himself that he was with her when she conducted initiations, that he joined her in leading the Dionysiac march, and that many a time he cried out "evoe saboe," and "hyes attes, attes hyes"; for these words are in the ritual ofSabazius and the Mother.
§ 10.3.19 Further, one might also find, in addition to these facts concerning these genii and their various names, that they were called, not only ministers of gods, but also gods themselves. For instance,Hesiod says that five daughters were born toHecaterus and the daughter ofPhoroneus, "from whom sprang the mountain-ranging nymphs, goddesses, and the breed ofSatyrs, creatures worthless and unfit for work, and also theCuretes, sportive gods, dancers." And the author ofPhoronis speaks of theCuretes as "flute-players" and "Phrygians"; and others as "earth-born" and "wearing brazen shields." Some call theCorybantes, and not theCuretes, "Phrygians," but theCuretes "Cretes," and say that the Cretes were the first people to don brazen armour inEuboea, and that on this account they were also called "Chalcidians"; still others say that theCorybantes, who came fromBactriana (some say from among theColchians), were given as armed ministers toRhea by theTitans. But in theCretan accounts theCuretes are called "rearers ofZeus," and "protectors ofZeus," having been summoned fromPhrygia toCrete byRhea. Some say that, of the nineTelchines who lived inRhodes, those who accompaniedRhea toCrete and "reared"Zeus "in his youth" were named "Curetes"; and that Cyrbas, a comrade of these, who was the founder ofHierapytna, afforded a pretext to thePrasians for saying among theRhodians that theCorybantes were certain genii, sons ofAthena andHelius. Further, some call theCorybantes sons ofCronus, but others say that theCorybantes were sons ofZeus andCalliope and were identical with theCabeiri, and that these went off toSamothrace, which in earlier times was called Melite, and that their rites were mystical.
§ 10.3.20 But though theScepsian, who compiled these myths, does not accept the last statement, on the ground that no mystic story of theCabeiri is told inSamothrace, still he cites also the opinion ofStesimbrotus theThasian that the sacred rites inSamothrace were performed in honor of theCabeiri: and theScepsian says that they were calledCabeiri after the mountain Cabeirus in Berecyntia. Some, however, believe that theCuretes were the same as theCorybantes and were ministers ofHecate. But theScepsian again states, in opposition to the words ofEuripides, that the rites ofRhea were not sanctioned or in vogue inCrete, but only inPhrygia and theTroad, and that those who say otherwise are dealing in myths rather than in history, though perhaps the identity of the place-names contributed to their making this mistake. For instance,Ida is not only aTrojan, but also aCretan, mountain; andDicte is a place inScepsia and also a mountain inCrete; and Pytna, after which the cityHierapytna was named, is a peak ofIda. And there is a Hippocorona in the territory ofAdramyttium and aHippocoronium inCrete. AndSamonium is the eastern promontory of the island and a plain in the territory ofNeandria and in that of theAlexandreians.
§ 10.3.21 Acusilaus, theArgive, callsCadmilus the son ofCabeiro andHephaestus, andCadmilus the father of threeCabeiri, and these the fathers of the nymphs calledCabeirides.Pherecydes says that nineCyrbantes were sprung fromApollo and Rhetia, and that they took up their abode inSamothrace; and that threeCabeiri and three nymphs calledCabeirides were the children ofCabeiro, the daughter ofProteus, andHephaestus, and that sacredrites were instituted in honor of each triad. Now it has so happened that theCabeiri are most honored inImbros andLemnos, but they are also honored in separate cities of theTroad; their names, however, are kept secret.Herodotus says that there were sanctuaries of theCabeiri inMemphis, as also ofHephaestus, but thatCambyses destroyed them. The places where these deities were worshipped are uninhabited, both theCorybanteium inHamaxitia in the territory now belonging to theAlexandreians nearSminthium, and Corybissa inScepsia in the neighborhood of the river Eureeis and of the village which bears the same name and also of the winter torrent Aethaloeis. TheScepsian says that it is probable that theCuretes and theCorybantes were the same, being those who had been accepted as young men, or "youths," for the war-dance in connection with the holy rites of theMother of the Gods, and also as "corybantes" from the fact that they "walked with a butting of their heads" in a dancing way. These are called by the poet "betarmones": "Come now, all ye that are the best 'betarmones' of thePhaeacians. And because theCorybantes are inclined to dancing and to religious frenzy, we say of those who are stirred with frenzy that they are "corybantising."
§ 10.3.22 Some writers say that the name "IdaeanDactyli" was given to the first settlers of the lower slopes of Mt.Ida, for the lower slopes of mountains are called "feet," and the summits "heads"; accordingly, the several extremities ofIda (all of which are sacred to theMother of the Gods) were calledDactyli.Sophocles thinks that the first maleDactyli were five in number, who were the first to discover and to work iron, as well as many other things which are useful for the purposes of life, and that their sisters were five in number, and that they were calledDactyli from their number. But different writers tell the myth in different ways, joining difficulty to difficulty; and both the names and numbers they use are different; and they name one of them "Celmis" and others "Damnameneus" and "Heracles" and "Acmon." Some call them natives ofIda, others settlers; but all agree that iron was first worked by these onIda; and all have assumed that they were wizards and attendants of theMother of the Gods, and that they lived inPhrygia aboutIda; and they use the termPhrygia for theTroad because, afterTroy was sacked, thePhrygians, whose territory bordered on theTroad, got the mastery over it. And they suspect that both theCuretes and theCorybantes were offspring of theIdaeanDactyli; at any rate, the first hundred men born inCrete were calledIdaeanDactyli, they say, and as offspring of these were born nineCuretes, and each of these begot ten children who were calledIdaeanDactyli.
§ 10.3.23 I have been led on to discuss these people rather at length, although I am not in the least fond of myths, because the facts in their case border on the province of theology. And theology as a whole must examine early opinions and myths, since the ancients expressed enigmatically the physical notions which they entertained concerning the facts and always added the mythical element to their accounts. Now it is not easy to solve with accuracy all the enigmas, but if the multitude of myths be set before us, some agreeing and others contradicting one another, one might be able more readily to conjecture out of them what the truth is. For instance, men probably speak in their myths about the "mountain-roaming" of religious zealots and of gods themselves, and about their "religious frenzies," for the same reason that they are prompted to believe that the gods dwell in the skies and show forethought, among their other interests, for prognostication by signs. Now seeking for metals, and hunting, and searching for the things that are useful for the purposes of life, are manifestly closely related to mountain-roaming, whereas juggling and magic are closely related to religious frenzies, worship, and divination. And such also is devotion to the arts, in particular to the Dionysiac and Orphic arts. But enough on this subject.
§ 10.4.1 Crete Since I have already described the islands of thePeloponnesus in detail, not only the others, but also those in theCorinthian Gulf and those in front of it, I must next discussCrete (for it, too, belongs to thePeloponnesus) and any islands that are in the neighborhood ofCrete. Among these are theCyclades and theSporades, some worthy of mention, others of less significance.
§ 10.4.2 But at present let me first discussCrete. Now althoughEudoxus says that it is situated in theAegean Sea, one should not so state, but rather that it lies betweenCyrenaea and that part of Greece which extends fromSounion toLaconia, stretching lengthwise parallel with these countries from west to east, and that it is washed on the north by theAegean and theCretan Seas, and on the south by the Libyan Sea, which borders on theEgyptian. As for its two extremities, the western is in the neighborhood ofPhalasarna; it has a breadth of about two hundred stadia and is divided into two promontories (of these the southern is calledCriumetopon, the northernCimarus), whereas the eastern isSamonium, which falls toward the east not much farther thanSounion.
§ 10.4.3 As for its size,Sosicrates, whose account of the island, according toApollodorus, is exact, defines it as follows: In length, more than two thousand three hundred stadia, and in breadth, . . ., so that its circuit, according to him, would amount to more than five thousand stadia; butArtemidorus says it is four thousand one hundred.Hieronymus says that its length is two thousand stadia and its breadth irregular, and therefore might mean that the circuit is greater thanArtemidorus says. For about a third of its length . . .; and then comes an isthmus of about one hundred stadia, which, on the northern sea, has a settlement calledAmphimalla, and, on the southern,Phoenix, belonging to theLampians. The island is broadest near the middle. And from here the shores again converge to an isthmus narrower than the former, about sixty stadia in width, which extends fromMinoa, city of theLyctians, toHierapytna and the Libyan Sea; the city is situated on the gulf. Then the island projects into a sharp promontory,Samonium, which slopes in the direction ofEgypt and the islands of theRhodians.
§ 10.4.4 The island is mountainous and thickly wooded, but it has fruitful glens. Of the mountains, those towards the west are calledLeuca; they do not fall short ofTaygetus in height, extend in length about three hundred stadia, and form a ridge which terminates approximately at the narrows. In the middle, in the most spacious part of the island, is MountIda, loftiest of the mountains ofCrete and circular in shape, with a circuit of six hundred stadia; and around it are the best cities. There are other mountains inCrete that are about as high as theLeuca, some terminating towards the south and others towards the east.
§ 10.4.5 The voyage fromCyrenaea toCriumetopon takes two days and nights, and the distance fromCimarus toTaenarum is seven hundred stadia,Cythera lying between them; and the voyage fromSamonium toEgypt takes four days and nights, though some say three. Some state that this is a voyage of five thousand stadia, but others still less.Eratosthenes says that the distance fromCyrenaea toCriumetopon is two thousand, and from there to thePeloponnesus less . . .
§ 10.4.6 "But one tongue with others is mixed, the poet says;"there dwellAchaeans, thereEteo-Cretans proud of heart, thereCydonians andDorians, too, of waving plumes, and goodlyPelasgians. Of these peoples, according toStaphylus, the Dorians occupy the part towards the east, theCydonians the western part, theEteo-Cretans the southern; and to these last belongs the townPrasus, where is the sanctuary of theDictaeanZeus; whereas the other peoples, since they were more powerful, dwelt in the plains. Now it is reasonable to suppose that theEteo-Cretans and theCydonians were autochthonous, and that the others were foreigners, who, according toAndron, came fromThessaly, from the country which in earlier times was calledDoris, but is now calledHestiaeotis; it was from this country that theDorians who lived in the neighborhood ofParnassus set out, as he says, and foundedErineus,Boeum, andCytinium, and hence byHomer are called "trichaices." However, writers do not accept the account ofAndron at all, since he represents the TetrapolisDoris as being a tripolis, and the metropolis of theDorians as a mere colony ofThessalians; and they derive the meaning of "trichaices" either from the "trilophia," or from the fact that the crests were "trichini."
§ 10.4.7 There are several cities inCrete, but the greatest and most famous are three:Cnossus,Gortyna andCydonia. The praises ofCnossus are hymned above the rest both byHomer, who calls it "great" and "the kingdom ofMinos," and by the later poets. Furthermore, it continued for a long time to win the first honors; then it was humbled and deprived of many of its prerogatives, and its superior rank passed over toGortyna andLyctus; but later it again recovered its olden dignity as the metropolis.Cnossus is situated in a plain, its original circuit being thirty stadia, between theLyctian andGortynian territories, being two hundred stadia distant fromGortyna, and a hundred and twenty fromLyttus, which the poet namedLyctus.Cnossus is twenty-five stadia from the northern sea,Gortyna is ninety from the Libyan Sea, andLyctus itself is eighty from the Libyan. AndCnossus hasHeracleium as its seaport.
§ 10.4.8 ButMinos is said to have used as seaportAmnisus, where is thesanctuary of Eileithuia. In earlier timesCnossus was called Caeratus, bearing the same name as the river which flows past it. According to history,Minos was an excellent law-giver, and also the first to gain the mastery of the sea; and he divided the island into three parts and founded a city in each part,Cnossus in the . . . And it, too, lies to the north. AsEphorus states,Minos was an emulator of a certainRhadamanthys of early times, a man most just and bearing the same name asMinos's brother, who is reputed to have been the first to civilize the island by establishing laws and by uniting cities under one city as metropolis and by setting up constitutions, alleging that he brought fromZeus the several decrees which he promulgated. So, in imitation ofRhadamanthys,Minos would go up every nine years, as it appears, to the cave ofZeus, tarry there, and come back with commandments drawn up in writing, which he alleged were ordinances ofZeus; and it was for this reason that the poet says, "thereMinos reigned as king, who held converse with greatZeus every ninth year. Such is the statement ofEphorus; but again the early writers have given a different account ofMinos, which is contrary to that ofEphorus, saying that he was tyrannical, harsh, and an exactor of tribute, representing in tragedy the story of theMinotaur and theLabyrinth, and the adventures ofTheseus andDaedalus.
§ 10.4.9 Now, as for these two accounts, it is hard to say which is true; and there is another subject that is not agreed upon by all, some saying thatMinos was a foreigner, but others that he was a native of the island. The poet, however, seems rather to advocate the second view when he says,"Zeus first begotMinos, guardian o'erCrete. In regard toCrete, writers agree that in ancient times it had good laws, and rendered the best of the Greeks its emulators, and in particular theLacedemonians, as is shown, for instance, byPlato and also byEphorus, who in his Europe has described its constitution. But later it changed very much for the worse; for after theTyrrhenians, who more than any other people ravaged Our Sea, theCretans succeeded to the business ofpiracy; theirpiracy was later destroyed by theCilicians; but allpiracy was broken up by the Romans, who reducedCrete by war and also thepiratical strongholds of theCilicians. And at the present timeCnossus has even a colony of Romans.
§ 10.4.10 So much forCnossus, a city to which I myself am not alien, although, on account of man's fortune and of the changes and issues therein, the bonds which at first connected me with the city have disappeared:Dorylaus was a military expert and one of the friends ofMithridates Euergetes. He, because of his experience in military affairs, was appointed to enlist mercenaries, and often visited not only Greece andThrace, but also the mercenaries ofCrete, that is, before the Romans were yet in possession of the island and while the number of mercenary soldiers in the island, from whom thepiratical bands were also wont to be recruited, was large. Now whenDorylaus was sojourning there war happened to break out between theCnossians and theGortynians, and he was appointed general, finished the war successfully, and speedily won the greatest honors. But when, a little later, he learned thatEuergetes, as the result of a plot, had been treacherously slain inSinope by his closest associates, and heard that the succession had passed to his wife and young children, he despaired of the situation there and stayed on atCnossus. There, by a Macetan [Macedonian] woman,Sterope by name, he begot two sons,Lagetas and Stratarchas (the latter of whom I myself saw when he was an extremely old man), and also one daughter. NowEuergetes had two sons, one of whom,Mithridates surnamed Eupator, succeeded to the rule when he was eleven years old.Dorylaus, the son ofPhiletaerus, was his foster brother; and Philotaerus was a brother ofDorylaus the military expert. And when the kingMithridates reached manhood, he was so infatuated with the companionship of his foster brotherDorylaus that he not only conferred upon him the greatest honors, but also cared for his kinsmen and summoned those who lived atCnossus. These were the household ofLagetas and his brother, their father having already died, and they themselves having reached manhood; and they quitCnossus and went home. My mother's mother was the sister ofLagetas. Now whenLagetas prospered, these others shared in his prosperity, but when he was ruined (for he was caught in the act of trying to cause the kingdom to revolt to the Romans, on the understanding that he was to be established at the head of the government), their fortunes were also ruined at the same time, and they were reduced to humility; and the bonds which connected them with theCnossians, who themselves had undergone countless changes, fell into neglect. But enough for my account ofCnossus.
§ 10.4.11 AfterCnossus, the city of theGortynians seems to have ranked second in power; for when these two cooperated they held in subjection all the rest of the inhabitants, and when they had a quarrel there was dissension throughout the island. ButCydonia was the greatest addition to whichever side it attached itself. The city of theGortynians also lies in a plain; and in ancient times, perhaps, it was walled, asHomer states, "and well-walledGortyn, but later it lost its walls from their very foundations, and has remained unwalled ever since; for althoughPtolemy Philopator began to build a wall, he proceeded with it only about eighty stadia; at any rate, it is worth mentioning that the settlement once filled out a circuit of about fifty stadia. It is ninety stadia distant from the Libyan Sea atLeben, which is its trading center; it also has another seaport,Matalum, from which it is a hundred and thirty stadia distant. TheLethaeus River flows through the whole of its territory.
§ 10.4.12 FromLeben cameLeucocomas and his loverEuxynthetus, the story of whom is told byTheophrastus in his treatise OnLove. Of the tasks whichLeucocomas assigned toEuxynthetus, one, he says, was this — to bring back hisdog fromPrasus. The country of thePrasians borders on that of theLebenians, being seventy stadia distant from the sea and a hundred and eighty fromGortyn. As I have said,Prasus belonged to theEteo-Cretans; and the sanctuary of theDictaeanZeus was there; forDicte is near it, not "close to theIdaean Mountain," asAratus says, forDicte is a thousand stadia distant fromIda, being situated at that distance from it towards the rising sun, and a hundred fromSamonium.Prasus was situated betweenSamonium and theCherronesus, sixty stadia above the sea; it was razed to the ground by theHierapytnians. And neither isCallimachus right, they say, when he says thatBritomartis, in her flight from the violence ofMinos, leaped fromDicte into fishermen's "nets," and that because of this she herself was calledDictynna by theCydoniatae, and the mountainDicte; forCydonia is not in the neighborhood of these places at all, but lies near the western limits of the island. However, there is a mountain calledTityrus inCydonia, on which is a sanctuary, not the "Dictaean", but the "Dictynnaean."
§ 10.4.13 Cydonia is situated on the sea, facingLaconia, and is equidistant, about eight hundred stadia, from the two citiesCnossus andGortyn, and is eighty stadia distant fromAptera, and forty from the sea in that region. The seaport ofAptera isCisamus. The territory.of thePolyrrhenians borders on that of theCydoniatae towards the west, and the sanctuary ofDictynna is in their territory. They are about thirty stadia distant from the sea, and sixty fromPhalasarna. They lived in villages in earlier times; and thenAchaeans andLaconians made a common settlement, building a wall round a place that was naturally strong and faced towards the south.
§ 10.4.14 Of the three cities that were united under one metropolis byMinos, the third, which wasPhaestus, was razed to the ground by theGortynians; it is sixty stadia distant fromGortyn, twenty from the sea, and forty from the seaportMatalum; and the country is held by those who razed it.Rhytium, also, together withPhaestus, belongs to theGortynians: "andPhaestus andRhytium.Epimenides, who performed the purifications by means of his verses, is said to have been fromPhaestus. AndLissen also is in thePhaestian territory. OfLyctus, which I have mentioned before, the seaport isCherronesus, as it is called, where is thesanctuary of Britomartis. But the citiesMiletus andLycastus, which are catalogued along withLyctus, no longer exist; and as for their territory, theLyctians took one portion of it and theCnossians the other, after they had razed the city to the ground.
§ 10.4.15 Since the poet speaks ofCrete at one time as "possessing a hundred cities," and also at another as "possessing ninety cities,"Ephorus says that the ten were founded later than the others, after theTrojan War, by theDorians who accompaniedAlthaemenes theArgive; he adds that it wasOdysseus, however, who called it "Crete of the ninety cities." Now this statement is plausible, but others say that the ten cities were razed to the ground by the enemies ofIdomeneus. However, in the first place, the poet does not say thatCrete had one hundred cities at the time of theTrojan War, but rather in his own time (for he is speaking in his own person, although, if the statement was made by some person who was living at the time of theTrojan War, as is the case in theOdyssey, whenOdysseus says "of the ninety cities," then it would be well to interpret it accordingly). In the second place, if we should concede this, the next statement could not he maintained; for it is not likely that these cities were wiped out by the enemies ofIdomeneus either during the expedition or after his return fromTroy; for when the poet said, "and all his companionsIdomeneus brought toCrete, all who escaped from the war, and the sea robbed him of none, he would also have mentioned this disaster; for of courseOdysseus could not have known of the obliteration of the cities, since he came in contact with no Greeks either during his wanderings or later. And he who accompaniedIdomeneus on the expedition toTroy and returned safely home at the same time could not have known what occurred in the homeland ofIdomeneus either during the expedition or the return fromTroy, nor yet even after the return; for ifIdomeneus escaped with all his companions, he returned home strong, and therefore his enemies were not likely to be strong enough to take ten cities away from him. Such, then, is my description of the country of theCretans.
§ 10.4.16 As for their constitution, which is described byEphorus, it might suffice to tell in a cursory way its most important provisions. The lawgiver, he says, seems to take it for granted that liberty is a state's greatest good, for this alone makes property belong specifically to those who have acquired it, whereas in a condition of slavery everything belongs to the rulers and not to the ruled; but those who have liberty must guard it; now harmony ensues when dissension, which is the result of greed and luxury, is removed; for when all citizens live a self-restrained and simple life there arises neither envy nor arrogance nor hatred towards those who are like them; and this is why the lawgiver commanded the boys to attend the "Troops," as they are called, and the full grown men to eat together at the public messes which they call the "Andreia," so that the poorer, being fed at public expense, might be on an equality with the well-to-do; and in order that courage, and not cowardice, might prevail, he commanded that from boyhood they should grow up accustomed to arms and toils, so as to scorn heat, cold, marches over rugged and steep roads, and blows received in gymnasiums or regular battles; and that they should practise, not only archery, but also the war-dance, which was invented and made known by theCuretes at first, and later, also, by the man who arranged the dance that was named after him, I mean the Pyrrhic dance, so that not even their sports were without a share in activities that were useful for warfare; and likewise that they should use in their songs the Cretic rhythms, which were very high pitched, and were invented byThales, to whom they ascribe, not only their Paeans and other local songs, but also many of their institutions; and that they should use military dress and shoes; and that arms should be to them the most valuable of gifts.
§ 10.4.17 It is said by some writers,Ephorus continues, that most of theCretan institutions areLaconian, but the truth is that they were invented by theCretans and only perfected by theSpartans; and theCretans, when their cities, and particularly that of theCnossians, were devastated, neglected military affairs; but some of the institutions continued in use among theLyctians,Gortynians, and certain other small cities to a greater extent than among theCnossians; in fact, the institutions of theLyctians are cited as evidence by those who represent theLaconian as older; for, they argue, being colonists, they preserve the customs of the mother city, since even on general grounds it is absurd to represent those who are better organized and governed as emulators of their inferiors; but this is not correct,Ephorus says, for, in the first place, one should not draw evidence as to antiquity from the present state of things, for both peoples have undergone a complete reversal; for instance, theCretans in earlier times were masters of the sea, and hence the proverb, "TheCretan does not know the sea," is applied to those who pretend not to know what they do know, although now theCretans have lost their fleet; and, in the second place, it does not follow that, because some of the cities inCrete wereSpartan colonies, they were under compulsion to keep to theSpartan institutions; at any rate, many colonial cities do not observe their ancestral customs, and many, also, of those inCrete that are not colonial have the same customs as the colonists.
§ 10.4.18 Lycurgus theSpartan law-giver,Ephorus continues, was five generations later than theAlthaemenes who conducted the colony toCrete; for historians say thatAlthaemenes was son of theCissus who foundedArgos about the same time whenProcles was establishingSparta as metropolis; andLycurgus, as is agreed by all, was sixth in descent fromProcles; and copies are not earlier than their models, nor more recent things earlier than older things; not only the dancing which is customary among theLacedemonians, but also the rhythms and paeans that are sung according to law, and many otherSpartan institutions, are called "Cretan" among theLacedemonians, as though they originated inCrete; and some of the public offices are not only administered in the same way as inCrete, but also have the same names, as, for instance, the office of the "Gerontes," and that of the "Hippeis" (except that the "Hippeis" inCrete actually possessedhorses, and from this fact it is inferred that the office of the "Hippeis" inCrete is older, for they preserve the true meaning of the appellation, whereas theLacedemonian "Hippeis" do not keephorses); but though the Ephors have the same functions as theCretanCosmi, they have been named differently; and the public messes are, even today, still called "Andreia" among theCretans, but among theSpartans they ceased to be called by the same name as in earlier times; at any rate, the following is found inAlcman: "In feasts and festive gatherings, amongst the guests who partake of theAndreia, 'tis meet to begin the paean
§ 10.4.19 It is said by theCretans,Ephorus continues, thatLycurgus came to them for the following reason:Polydectes was the elder brother ofLycurgus; when he died he left his wife pregnant; now for a timeLycurgus reigned in his brother's place, but when a child was born he became the child's guardian, since the office of king descended to the child, but some man, railing atLycurgus, said that he knew for sure thatLycurgus would be king; andLycurgus, suspecting that in consequence of such talk he himself might be falsely accused of plotting against the child, and fearing that, if by any chance the child should die, he himself might be blamed for it by his enemies, sailed away toCrete; this, then, is said to be the cause of his sojourn inCrete; and when he arrived he associated withThales, a melic poet and an expert in lawgiving; and after learning from him the manner in which bothRhadamanthys in earlier times andMinos in later times published their laws to men as fromZeus, and after sojourning inEgypt also and learning among other things their institutions, and, according to some writers, after meetingHomer, who was living inChios, he sailed back to his homeland, and found his brother's son,Charilaus the son ofPolydectes, reigning as king; and then he set out to frame the laws, making visits to the god atDelphi, and bringing thence the god's decrees, just asMinos and his house had brought their ordinances from the cave ofZeus, most of his being similar to theirs.
§ 10.4.20 The following are the most important provisions in theCretan institutions as stated byEphorus. InCrete all those who are selected out of the "Troop" of boys at the same time are forced to marry at the same time, although they do not take the girls whom they have married to their own homes immediately, but as soon as the girls are qualified to manage the affairs of the house. A girl's dower, if she has brothers, is half of the brother's portion. The children must learn, not only their letters, but also the songs prescribed in the laws and certain forms of music. Now those who are still younger are taken to the public messes, the "Andreia"; and they sit together on the ground as they eat their food, clad in shabby garments, the same both winter and summer, and they also wait on the men as well as on themselves. And those who eat together at the same mess join battle both with one another and with those from different messes. A boy director presides over each mess. But the older boys are taken to the "Troops"; and the most conspicuous and influential of the boys assemble the "Troops," each collecting as many boys as he possibly can; the leader of each "Troop" is generally the father of the assembler, and he has authority to lead them forth to hunt and to run races, and to punish anyone who is disobedient; and they are fed at public expense; and on certain appointed days "Troop" contends with "Troop," marching rhythmically into battle, to the tune of flute and lyre, as is their custom in actual war; and they actually bear marks of the blows received, some inflicted by the hand, others by iron weapons.
§ 10.4.21 They have a peculiar custom in regard to love affairs, for they win the objects of their love, not by persuasion, but by abduction; the lover tells the friends of the boy three or four days beforehand that he is going to make the abduction; but for the friends to conceal the boy, or not to let him go forth by the appointed road, is indeed a most disgraceful thing, a confession, as it were, that the boy is unworthy to obtain such a lover; and when they meet, if the abductor is the boy's equal or superior in rank or other respects, the friends pursue him and lay hold of him, though only in a very gentle way, thus satisfying the custom; and after that they cheerfully turn the boy over to him to lead away; if, however, the abductor is unworthy, they take the boy away from him. And the pursuit does not end until the boy is taken to the "Andreium" of his abductor. They regard as a worthy object of love, not the boy who is exceptionally handsome, but the boy who is exceptionally manly and decorous. After giving the boy presents, the abductor takes him away to any place in the country he wishes; and those who were present at the abduction follow after them, and after feasting and hunting with them for two months (for it is not permitted to detain the boy for a longer time), they return to the city. The boy is released after receiving as presents a military habit, anox, and a drinking-cup (these are the gifts required by law), and other things so numerous and costly that the friends, on account of the number of the expenses, make contributions thereto. Now the boy sacrifices theox toZeus and feasts those who returned with him; and then he makes known the facts about his intimacy with his lover, whether, perchance, it has pleased him or not, the law allowing him this privilege in order that, if any force was applied to him at the time of the abduction, he might be able at this feast to avenge himself and be rid of the lover. It is disgraceful for those who are handsome in appearance or descendants of illustrious ancestors to fail to obtain lovers, the presumption being that their character is responsible for such a fate. But the parastathentes (for thus they call those who have been abducted) receive honors; for in both the dances and the races they have the positions of highest honor, and are allowed to dress in better clothes than the rest, that is, in the habit given them by their lovers; and not then only, but even after they have grown to manhood, they wear a distinctive dress, which is intended to make known the fact that each wearer has become "kleinos," for they call the loved one "kleinos" and the lover "philetor." So much for their customs in regard to love affairs.
§ 10.4.22 TheCretans choose ten Archons. Concerning the matters of greatest importance they use as counsellors the "Gerontes," as they are called. Those who have been thought worthy to hold the office of the "Cosmi" and are otherwise adjudged men of approved worth are appointed members of this Council. I have assumed that the constitution of theCretans is worthy of description both on account of its peculiar character and on account of its fame. Not many, however, of these institutions endure, but the administration of affairs is carried on mostly by means of the decrees of the Romans, as is also the case in the other provinces.
§ 10.5.1 Islands The islands nearCrete areThera, the metropolis of theCyrenaeans, a colony of theLacedemonians, and, nearThera,Anaphe, where is the sanctuary of theAegletanApollo.Callimachus speaks in one place as follows, "AegletanAnaphe, neighbor toLaconianThera, and in another, mentioning onlyThera,"mother of my fatherland, famed for itshorses.Thera is a long island, being two hundred stadia in perimeter; it lies oppositeDia, an island near theCnossianHeracleium, but it is seven hundred stadia distant fromCrete. Near it are bothAnaphe andTherasia. One hundred stadia distant from the latter is the little islandIos, where, according to some writers, the poetHomer was buried. FromIos towards the west one comes toSicinos andLagusa andPholegandros, which lastAratus calls "Iron" Island, because of its ruggedness. Near these isCimolos, whence comes theCimolian earth. FromCimolosSiphnos is visible, in reference to which island, because of its worthlessness, people say "Siphnian knuckle-bone." And still nearer both toCimolos and toCrete isMelos, which is more notable than these and is seven hundred stadia from theHermionic promontory, theScyllaion, and almost the same distance from theDictynnaion. TheAthenians once sent an expedition toMelos and slaughtered most of the inhabitants from youth upwards. Now these islands are indeed in the Cretan Sea, butDelos itself and theCyclades in its neighborhood and theSporades which lie close to these, to which belong the aforesaid islands in the neighborhood ofCrete, are rather in theAegean Sea.
§ 10.5.2 Now the city which belongs toDelos, as also thesanctuary of Apollo, and the Letoum, are situated in a plain; and above the city liesCynthus, a bare and rugged mountain; and a river namedInopus flows through the island — not a large river, for the island itself is small. From olden times, beginning with the times of the heroes,Delos has been revered because of its gods, for the myth is told that thereLeto was delivered of her travail by the birth ofApollo andArtemis: "for aforetime, saysPindar,"it was tossed by the billows, by the blasts of all manner of winds, but when the daughter ofCoeus in the frenzied pangs of childbirth set foot upon it, then did four pillars, resting on adamant, rise perpendicular from the roots of the earth, and on their capitals sustain the rock. And there she gave birth to, and beheld, her blessed offspring. The neighboring islands, called theCyclades, made it famous, since in its honor they would send at public expense sacred envoys, sacrifices, and choruses composed of virgins, and would celebrate great general festivals there.
§ 10.5.3 Now at first theCyclades are said to have been only twelve in number, but later several others were added. At any rate,Artemidorus enumerates fifteen, after saying ofHelena that it stretches parallel to the coast fromThoricus toSounion and is a long island, about sixty stadia in length; for it is fromHelena, he says, that theCyclades, as they are called, begin; and he namesCeos, the island nearest toHelena, and, after this island,Cythnos andSeriphos andMelos andSiphnos andCimolos andPrepesinthos andOliaros, and, in addition to these,Paros,Naxos,Syros,Myconos,Tenos,Andros, andGyaros. Now I consider all of these among the twelve exceptPrepesinthos,Oliaros, andGyaros. When our ship anchored at one of these,Gyaros, I saw a small village that was settled by fishermen; and when we sailed away we took on board one of the fishermen, who had been chosen to go from there toCaesar as ambassador (Caesar was atCorinth, on his way to celebrate the Triumph after the victory atActium ). While on the voyage he told enquirers that he had been sent as ambassador to request a reduction in their tribute; for, he said, they were paying one hundred and fifty drachmas when they could only with difficulty pay one hundred.Aratus also points out the poverty of the island in his Catalepton: "OLeto, shortly thou wilt pass by me, who am like either ironPholegandros or worthlessGyaros."
§ 10.5.4 Now althoughDelos had become so famous, yet the razing ofCorinth to the ground by the Romans increased its fame still more; for the importers changed their business toDelos because they were attracted both by the tax immunity thesanctuary enjoyed and by the convenient situation of the harbor; for it is happily situated for those who are sailing fromItaly and Greece toAsia. The general festival is a kind of commercial affair, and it was frequented by Romans more than by any other people, even whenCorinth was still in existence. And when theAthenians took the island they at the same time took good care of the importers as well as of the religious rites. But when the generals ofMithridates, and the tyrant who caused it to revolt, visitedDelos, they completely ruined it, and when the Romans again got the island, after the king withdrew to his homeland, it was desolate; and it has remained in an impoverished condition until the present time. It is now held by theAthenians.
§ 10.5.5 Rheneia is a desert isle within four stadia fromDelos, and there theDelians bury their dead; for it is unlawful to bury, or even burn, a corpse inDelos itself, and it is unlawful even to keep adog there. In earlier times it was calledOrtygia.
§ 10.5.6 Ceos was at first a tetrapolis, but only two cities are left,Iulis andCarthaea, into which the remaining two were incorporated,Poeeessa intoCarthaea andCoressia intoIulis. BothSimonides the melic poet and his nephewBacchylides were natives ofIulis, and also after their timeErasistratus the physician, andAriston the peripatetic philosopher and emulator ofBion theBorysthenite. It is reputed that there was once a law among these people (it is mentioned byMenander, "Phanias, the law of theCeians is good, that he who is unable to live well should not live wretchedly"), which appears to have ordered those who were over sixty years of age to drink hemlock, in order that the food might be sufficient for the rest. And it is said that once, when they were being besieged by theAthenians, they voted, setting a definite age, that the oldest among them should be put to death, but theAthenians raised the siege. The city lies on a mountain, about twenty-five stadia distant from the sea; and its seaport is the place on whichCoressia was situated, which has not as great a population as even a village. NearCoressia, and also nearPoeeessa, is a sanctuary ofSminthianApollo; and between the sanctuary and the ruins ofPoeeessa is the sanctuary of NedusianAthena, founded byNestor when he was on his return fromTroy. There is also a riverElixus in the neighborhood ofCoressia.
§ 10.5.7 AfterCeos one comes toNaxos andAndros, notable islands, and toParos.Archilochus the poet was a native ofParos.Thasos was founded by theParians, as alsoParium, a city on thePropontis. Now the altar in this city is said to be a spectacle worth seeing, its sides being a stadium in length; and so is theParian stone, as it is called, inParos, the best for sculpture in marble.
§ 10.5.8 And there isSyros (the first syllable is pronounced long), wherePherecydes the son ofBabys was born. TheAthenianPherecydes is later than he. The poet seems to mention this island, though he calls itSyria: "There is an island calledSyria, aboveOrtygia.
§ 10.5.9 And there isMyconos, beneath which, according to the myth, lie the last of the giants that were destroyed byHeracles. Whence the proverb, "all beneathMyconos alone," applied to those who bring under one title even those things which are by nature separate. And further, some call bald menMyconians, from the fact that baldness is prevalent in the island.
§ 10.5.10 And there isSeriphos, the scene of the mythical story ofDictys, who with his net drew to land the chest in which were enclosedPerseus and his motherDanae, who had been sunk in the sea byAcrisius the father ofDanae; forPerseus was reared there, it is said, and when he brought theGorgon's head there, he showed it to theSeriphians and turned them all into stone. This he did to avenge his mother, becausePolydectes the king, with their cooperation, intended to marry his mother against her will. The island is so rocky that the comedians say that it was made thus by theGorgon.
§ 10.5.11 Tenos has no large city, but it has thesanctuary of Poseidon, a large one in a sacred grove outside the city, a spectacle worth seeing. In it have been built great banquet halls — an indication of the multitude of neighbors who congregate there and take part with the inhabitants ofTenos in celebrating the Poseidonian festival.
§ 10.5.12 And there isAmorgos, one of theSporades, the home ofSimonides the iambic poet; and alsoLebinthos, andLeros: "And so saysPhocylides: 'theLerians are bad, not one, but every one, all exceptProcles; andProcles is aLerian.' For the natives of the island were reproached with being unprincipled.
§ 10.5.13 Nearby are bothPatmos and theCorassiae; these are situated to the west ofIcaria, andIcaria to the west ofSamos. NowIcaria is deserted, though it has pastures, which are used by theSamians. But although it is such an isle as it is, still it is famous, and after it is named the sea that lies in front of it, in which are itself andSamos andCos and the islands just mentioned — theCorassiae andPatmos andLeros. Famous, also, is the mountain in it,Cerceteus, more famous than theAmpelus, which is situated above the city ofSamians. TheIcarian Sea connects with theCarpathian Sea on the south, and theCarpathian with theEgyptian, and on the west with theCretan and the Libyan.
§ 10.5.14 In theCarpathian Sea, also, are many of theSporades, and in particular betweenCos andRhodes andCrete. Among these areAstypalaea,Telos,Chalcia, and those whichHomer names in theCatalogue: "And those who held the islandsNisyros andCrapathos andCasos andCos, the city ofEurypylus, and theCalydnian Islands; for, exceptingCos andRhodes, which I shall discuss later, I place them all among theSporades, and in fact, even though they are nearAsia and not Europe, I make mention of them here because my argument has somehow impelled me to include theSporades withCrete and theCyclades. But in my geographical description ofAsia I shall add a description of such islands that lie close to it as are worthy of note,Cyprus,Rhodes,Cos, and those that lie on the seaboard next thereafter,Samos,Chios,Lesbos, andTenedos. But now I shall traverse the remainder of theSporades that are worth mentioning.
§ 10.5.15 NowAstypalaea lies far out in the high sea and has a city.Telos extends alongsideCnidia, is long, high, narrow, has a perimeter of about one hundred and forty stadia, and has an anchoring-place.Chalcia is eighty stadia distant fromTelos, four hundred fromCarpathos, about twice as far fromAstypalaea, and has also a settlement of the same name and anApollo sanctuary and a harbor.
§ 10.5.16 Nisyros lies to the north ofTelos, and is about sixty stadia distant both from it and fromCos. It is round and high and rocky, the rock being that of which millstones are made; at any rate, the neighboring peoples are well supplied with millstones from there. It has also a city of the same name and a harbor and hot springs and a sanctuary ofPoseidon. Its perimeter is eighty stadia. Close to it are also isles called Isles of theNisyrians. They say thatNisyros is a fragment ofCos, and they add the myth thatPoseidon, when he was pursuing one of the giants,Polybotes, broke off a fragment ofCos with his trident and hurled it upon him, and the missile became an island,Nisyros, with the giant lying beneath it. But some say that he lies beneathCos.
§ 10.5.17 Carpathos, which the poet calls Crapathos, is high, and has a circuit of two hundred stadia. At first it was a tetrapolis, and it had a renown which is worth noting; and it was from this fact that the sea got the nameCarpathian. One of the cities was calledNisyros, the same name as that of the island of theNisyrians. It lies oppositeLeuce Acte inLibya, which is about one thousand stadia distant fromAlexandreia and about four thousand fromCarpathos.
§ 10.5.18 Casos is seventy stadia fromCarpathos, and two hundred and fifty from CapeSamonium inCrete. It has a circuit of eighty stadia. In it there is also a city of the same name, and round it are several islands called Islands of theCasians.
§ 10.5.19 They say that the poet calls theSporades "Calydnian Islands," one of which, they say, isCalymna. But it is reasonable to suppose that, as the islands which are near, and subject to,Nisyros andCasos are called "Islands of theNisyrians" and "Islands of theCasians," so also those which lie roundCalymna were called "Islands of the Calymnians" —Calymna at that time, perhaps, being calledCalydna. But some say that there are only twoCalydnian islands,Leros andCalymna, the two mentioned by the poet. TheScepsian says that the name of the island was used in the plural, "Calymnae," like "Athenae" and "Thebae"; but, he adds, the words of the poet should be interpreted as a case of hyperbaton, for he does not say, "Calydnian Islands," but "those who held the islandsNisyros andCrapathos andCasos andCos, the city ofEurypylus, and Calydnae." Now all the honey produced in the islands is, for the most part, good, and rivals that ofAttica, but the honey produced in the islands in question is exceptionally good, and in particular the Calymnian.
§ 11.1.1 Overview ofAsia
Asia is adjacent to Europe, bordering thereon along theTanais River. I must therefore describe this country next, first dividing it, for the sake of clearness, by means of certain natural boundaries. That is, I must do forAsia precisely whatEratosthenes did for the inhabited world as a whole.
§ 11.1.2 TheTaurus forms a partition approximately through the middle of this continent, extending from the west towards the east, leaving one portion of it on the north and the other on the south. Of these portions, the Greeks call the one the "Cis-
§ 11.1.3 Now the mountain has in many places as great a breadth as three thousand stadia, and a length as great as that ofAsia itself, that is, about forty-five thousand stadia, reckoning from the coast oppositeRhodes to the eastern extremities ofIndia andScythia.
§ 11.1.4 It has been divided into many parts with many names, determined by boundaries that circumscribe areas both large and small. But since certain tribes are comprised within the vast width of the mountain, some rather insignificant, but others extremely well known (as, for instance, theParthians, theMedes, theArmenians, a part of theCappadocians, theCilicians, and thePisidians), those which lie for the most part in its northerly parts must be assigned there, and those in its southern parts to the southern, while those which are situated in the middle of the mountains should, because of the likeness of their climate, be assigned to the north, for the climate in the middle is cold, whereas that in the south is hot. Further, almost all the rivers that rise in theTaurus flow in contrary directions, that is, some into the northern region and others into the southern (they do so at first, at least, although later some of them bend towards the east or west), and they therefore are naturally helpful in our use of these mountains as boundaries in the two-fold division ofAsia — just as the sea inside thePillars, which for the most part is approximately in a straight line with these mountains, has proved convenient in the forming of two continents, Europe andLibya, it being the noteworthy boundary between the two.
§ 11.1.5 As we pass from Europe toAsia in our geography, the northern division is the first of the two divisions to which we come; and therefore we must begin with this. Of this division the first portion is that in the region of theTanais River, which I have taken as the boundary between Europe andAsia. This portion forms, in a way, a peninsula, for it is surrounded on the west by theTanais River and LakeMaeotis as far as theBosporus and that part of the coast of theEuxine Sea which terminates atColchis; and then on the north by the Ocean as far as the mouth of theCaspian Sea; and then on the east by this same sea as far as the boundary betweenAlbania andArmenia, where empty the riversCyrus andAraxes, theAraxes flowing throughArmenia and theCyrus throughIberia andAlbania; and lastly, on the south by the tract of country which extends from the outlet of theCyrus River toColchis, which is about three thousand stadia from sea to sea, across the territory of theAlbanians and theIberians, and therefore is described as an isthmus. But those writers who have reduced the width of the isthmus as much asCleitarchus has, who says that it is subject to inundation from either sea, should not be considered even worthy of mention.Poseidonius states that the isthmus is fifteen hundred stadia across, as wide as the isthmus fromPelusium to theRed Sea. "And in my opinion," he says, "the isthmus from LakeMaeotis to the Ocean does not differ much therefrom."
§ 11.1.6 But I do not know how anyone can trust him concerning things that are uncertain if he has nothing plausible to say about them, when he reasons so illogically about things that are obvious; and this too, although he was a friend ofPompey, who made an expedition against theIberians and theAlbanians, from sea to sea on either side, both theCaspian and theColchian Seas. At any rate, it is said thatPompey, upon arriving atRhodes on his expedition against thepirates (immediately thereafter he was to set out against bothMithridates and the tribes which extended as far as theCaspian Sea), happened to attend one of the lectures ofPoseidonius, and that when he went out he askedPoseidonius whether he had any orders to give, and thatPoseidonius replied: "Ever bravest be, and preeminent o'er others. Add to this that among other works he wrote also the history ofPompey. So for this reason he should have been more regardful of the truth.
§ 11.1.7 The second portion would be that beyond theHyrcanian Sea, which we call theCaspian Sea, as far as theScythians nearIndia. The third portion would consist of the part which is adjacent to the isthmus above mentioned and of those parts of the region insideTaurus and nearest Europe which come next after this isthmus and theCaspian Gates, I meanMedia andArmenia andCappadocia and the intervening regions. The fourth portion is the land inside theHalys River, and all the region in theTaurus itself and outside thereof which falls within the limits of the peninsula which is formed by the isthmus that separates thePontic and theCilician Seas. As for the other countries, I mean the Trans-Tauran, I place among them not onlyIndia, but alsoAriana as far as the tribes that extend to thePersian sea and theArabian Gulf and theNile and theEgyptian and Issic Seas.
§ 11.2.1 Tanais Of the portions thus divided, the first is inhabited, in the region toward the north and the ocean, byScythian nomads and wagon-dwellers, and south of these, bySarmatians, these too beingScythians, and byAorsi andSiraci, who extend towards the south as far as theCaucasian Mountains, some being nomads and others tent-dwellers and farmers. About LakeMaeotis live theMaeotae. And on the sea lies the Asiatic side of theBosporus, or the Syndic territory. After this latter, one comes to theAchaei and theZygi and theHeniochi, and also theCercetae and the Macropogones. And above these are situated the narrow passes of thePhtheirophagi; and after theHeniochi theColchian country, which lies at the foot of theCaucasian, orMoschian, Mountains. But since I have taken theTanais River as the boundary between Europe andAsia, I shall begin my detailed description therewith.
§ 11.2.2 Now theTanais flows from the northerly region — not, however, as most people think, in a course diametrically opposite to that of theNile, but more to the east than theNile — and like theNile its sources are unknown. Yet a considerable part of theNile is well known, since it traverses a country which is everywhere easily accessible and since it is navigable for a great distance inland. But as for theTanais, although we know its outlets (they are two in number and are in the most northerly region of LakeMaeotis, being sixty stadia distant from one another), yet but little of the part that is beyond its outlets is known to us, because of the coldness and the poverty of the country. This poverty can indeed be endured by the indigenous peoples, who, in nomadic fashion, live on flesh and milk, but people from other tribes cannot stand it. And besides, the nomads, being disinclined to intercourse with any other people and being superior both in numbers and in might, have blocked off whatever parts of the country are passable, or whatever parts of the river happen to be navigable. This is what has caused some to assume that theTanais has its sources in theCaucasian Mountains, flows in great volume towards the north, and then, making a bend, empties into LakeMaeotis (Theophanes ofMitylene has the same opinion as these), and others to assume that it flows from the upper region of theIster, although they produce no evidence of its flowing from so great a distance or from other "climata," as though it were impossible for the river to flow both from a nearby source and from the north.
§ 11.2.3 On the river and the lake is an inhabited city bearing the same name,Tanais; it was founded by the Greeks who held theBosporus. Recently, however, it was sacked by KingPolemon because it would not obey him. It was a common emporium, partly of the Asiatic and the European nomads, and partly of those who navigated the lake from theBosporus, the former bringing slaves, hides, and such other things as nomads possess, and the latter giving in exchange clothing, wine, and the other things that belong to civilized life. At a distance of one hundred stadia off the emporium lies an island called Alopecia, a settlement of promiscuous people. There are also other small islands near by in the lake. TheTanais is two thousand two hundred stadia distant from the mouth of LakeMaeotis by a direct voyage towards the north; but it is not much farther by a voyage along the coast.
§ 11.2.4 In the voyage along the coast, one comes first, at a distance of eight hundred stadia fromTanais, to the GreaterRhombites River, as it is called, where are made the greatest catches of the fish that are suitable for salting. Then, at a distance of eight hundred more, to the LesserRhombites and a cape, which latter also has fisheries, although they are smaller. The people who live about the GreaterRhombites have small islands as bases for their fishing; but the people who carry on the business at the LesserRhombites are theMaeotae themselves, for theMaeotae live along the whole of this coast; and though farmers, they are no less warlike than the nomads. They are divided into several tribes, those who live near theTanais being rather ferocious, but those whose territory borders on theBosporus being more tractable. It is six hundred stadia from the LesserRhombites to Tyrambe and theAnticeites River; then a hundred and twenty to theCimmerian village, which is a place of departure for those who navigate the lake; and on this coast are said to be some look-out places belonging to theClazomenians.
§ 11.2.5 Cimmericum was in earlier times a city situated on a peninsula, and it closed the isthmus by means of a trench and a mound. TheCimmerians once possessed great power in theBosporus, and this is why it was namedCimmerian Bosporus. These are the people who overran the country of those who lived in the interior on the right side of thePontus as far asIonia. However, these were driven out of the region by theScythians; and then theScythians were driven out by the Greeks who foundedPanticapaion and the other cities on theBosporus
§ 11.2.6 Then, twenty stadia distant, one comes to the village Achilleium, where is the sanctuary ofAchilles. Here is the narrowest passage across the mouth of LakeMaeotis, about twenty stadia or more; and on the opposite shore is a village,Myrmecium; and near by are Heracleium and Parthenium.
§ 11.2.7 Thence ninety stadia to the monument ofSatyrus, which consists of a mound thrown up on a certain cape in memory of one of the illustrious potentates of theBosporus.
§ 11.2.8 Near by is a village, Patraeus, from which the distance to a villageCorocondame is one hundred and thirty stadia; and this village constitutes the limit of theCimmerian Bosporus, as it is called. The Narrows at the mouth of theMaeotis are so called from the narrow passage at Achilleium andMyrmecium; they extend as far asCorocondame and the small village namedAcra, which lies opposite to it in the land of thePanticapaeans, this village being separated from it by a strait seventy stadia wide; for the ice, also, extends as far as this, theMaeotis being so frozen at the time of frosts that it can be crossed on foot. And these Narrows have good harbors everywhere.
§ 11.2.9 AboveCorocondame lies a lake of considerable size, which derives its name, Corocondamitis, from that of the village. It empties into the sea at a distance of ten stadia from the village. A branch of theAnticeites empties into the lake and forms a kind of island which is surrounded by this lake and theMaeotis and the river. Some apply the nameHypanis to this river, just as they do to the river near theBorysthenes.
§ 11.2.10 Sailing into Lake Corocondamitis one comes toPhanagoreia, a noteworthy city, and toKepoi, and toHermonassa, and to Apaturum, the sanctuary ofAphrodite. Of these,Phanagoreia andKepoi are situated on the island above-mentioned, on the left as one sails in, but the other cities are on the right, across theHypanis, in the Syndic territory. There is also a place calledGorgipia in the Syndic territory, the royal residence of theSindi, near the sea; and also a place called Aborace. All the people who are subject to the potentates of theBosporus are calledBosporians; andPanticapaion is the metropolis of the European Bosporians, whilePhanagoreium (for the name of the city is also spelled thus) is the metropolis of the Asiatic Bosporians.Phanagoreia is reputed to be the emporium for the commodities that are brought down from theMaeotis and the barbarian country that lies above it, andPanticapaion for those which are carried up thither from the sea. There is also inPhanagoreia a notable sanctuary ofAphrodite Apaturus. Critics derive the etymology of the epithet of the goddess by adducing a certain myth, according to which theGiants attacked the goddess there; but she called uponHeracles for help and hid him in a cave, and then, admitting theGiants one by one, gave them over toHeracles to be murdered through "treachery"
§ 11.2.11 Among theMaeotae are theSindi themselves,Dandarii,Toreatae,Agri, andArrechi, and also theTarpetes,Obidiaceni,Sittaceni, Dosci, and several others. Among these belong also theAspurgiani, who live betweenPhanagoreia andGorgipia, within a stretch of five hundred stadia; these were attacked by KingPolemon under a pretence of friendship, but they discovered his pretence, outgeneralled him, and taking him alive killed him. As for the AsiaticMaeotae in general, some of them were subjects of those who possessed the emporium on theTanais, and the others of theBosporians; but in those days different peoples at different times were wont to revolt. And often the rulers of theBosporians held possession of the region as far as theTanais, and particularly the latest rulers,Pharnaces,Asander, andPolemon.Pharnaces is said at one time actually to have conducted theHypanis River over the country of theDandarii through an old canal which he cleared out, and to have inundated the country.
§ 11.2.12 After the Sindic territory andGorgipia, on the sea, one comes to the coast of theAchaei and theZygi and theHeniochi, which for the most part is harborless and mountainous, being a part of theCaucasus. These peoples live by robberies at sea. Their boats are slender, narrow, and light, holding only about twenty-five people, though in rare cases they can hold thirty in all; the Greeks call them "camarae." They say that thePhthiotic Achaei inJason's crew settled in thisAchaea, but theLaconians inHeniochia, the leaders of the latter being Rhecas and Amphistratus, the "heniochi" of theDioscuri, and that in all probability theHeniochi were named after these. At any rate, by equipping fleets of "camarae" and sailing sometimes against merchant vessels and sometimes against a country or even a city, they hold the mastery of the sea. And they are sometimes assisted even by those who hold theBosporus, the latter supplying them with mooring places, with market place, and with means of disposing of their booty. And since, when they return to their own land, they have no anchorage, they put the "camarae" on their shoulders and carry them to the forests where they live and where they till a poor soil. And they bring the "camarae" down to the shore again when the time for navigation comes. And they do the same thing in the countries of others, for they are well acquainted with wooded places; and in these they first hide their "camarae" and then themselves wander on foot night and day for the sake of kidnapping people. But they readily offer to release their captives for ransom, informing their relatives after they have put out to sea. Now in those places which are ruled by local chieftains the rulers go to the aid of those who are wronged, often attacking and bringing back the "camarae," men and all. But the territory that is subject to the Romans affords but little aid, because of the negligence of the governors who are sent there.
§ 11.2.13 Such is the life of these people. They are governed by chieftains called "sceptuchi," but the "sceptuchi" themselves are subject to tyrants or kings. For instance, theHeniochi had four kings at the time whenMithridates Eupator, in flight from the country of his ancestors to theBosporus, passed through their country; and while he found this country passable, yet he despaired of going through that of theZygi, both because of the ruggedness of it and because of the ferocity of the inhabitants; and only with difficulty could he go along the coast, most of the way marching on the edge of the sea, until he arrived at the country of theAchaei; and, welcomed by these, he completed his journey fromPhasis, a journey not far short of four thousand stadia.
§ 11.2.14 Now the voyage fromCorocondame is straight towards the east; and at a distance of one hundred and eighty stadia is theSindic harbor and city; and then, at a distance of four hundred stadia, one comes toBata, as it is called, a village and harbor, at which placeSinope on the south is thought to lie almost directly opposite this coast, just asCarambis has been referred to as oppositeCriumetopon. AfterBataArtemidorus mentions the coast of theCercetae, with its mooring places and villages, extending thence about eight hundred and fifty stadia; and then the coast of theAchaei, five hundred stadia; and then that of theHeniochi, one thousand; and then GreaterPityus, extending three hundred and sixty stadia toDioscurias. The more trustworthy historians of theMithridatic wars name theAchaei first, then theZygi, then theHeniochi, and then theCercetae andMoschi andColchi, and thePhtheirophagi who live above these three peoples, and theSoanes, and other small tribes that live in the neighborhood of theCaucasus. Now at first the coast, as I have said, stretches towards the east and faces the south, but fromBata it gradually takes a turn, and then faces the west and ends atPityus andDioscurias; for these places border on the above-mentioned coast ofColchis. AfterDioscurias comes the remaining coast ofColchis and the adjacent coast ofTrapezus, which makes a considerable bend, and then, extending approximately in a straight line, forms the righthand side of thePontus, which faces the north. The whole of the coast of theAchaei and of the other peoples as far asDioscurias and of the places that lie in a straight line towards the south in the interior lie at the foot of theCaucasus.
§ 11.2.15 This mountain lies above both seas, both thePontic and theCaspian, and forms a wall across the isthmus that separates the two seas. It marks the boundary, on the south, ofAlbania andIberia, and, on the north, of the plains of theSarmatae. It is well wooded with all kinds of timber, and especially the kind suitable for shipbuilding. According toEratosthenes, theCaucasus is called "Caspius" by the natives, the name being derived perhaps from the "Caspii." Branches of it project towards the south; and these not only comprise the middle ofAlbania but also join the mountains ofArmenia and theMoschian Mountains, as they are called, and also theScydises and theParyadres Mountains. All these are parts of theTaurus, which forms the southern side ofArmenia, parts broken off, as it were, from that mountain on the north and projecting as far as theCaucasus and that part of the coast of theEuxine which stretches fromColchis toThemiscyra.
§ 11.2.16 Be this as it may, sinceDioscurias is situated in such a gulf and occupies the most easterly point of the whole sea, it is called not only the recess of theEuxine, but also the "farthermost" voyage. And the proverbial verse, "ToPhasis, where for ships is the farthermost run, must be interpreted thus, not as though the author of the iambic verse meant the river, much less the city of the same name situated on the river, but as meaning by a part ofColchis the whole of it, since from the river and the city of that name there is left a straight voyage into the recess of not less than six hundred stadia. The sameDioscurias is the beginning of the isthmus between theCaspian Sea and theEuxine, and also the common emporium of the tribes who are situated above it and in its vicinity; at any rate, seventy tribes come together in it, though others, who care nothing for the facts, actually say three hundred. All speak different languages because of the fact that, by reason of their obstinacy and ferocity, they live in scattered groups and without intercourse with one another. The greater part of them areSarmatae, but they are all Caucasii. So much, then, for the region ofDioscurias.
§ 11.2.17 Further, the greater part of the remainder ofColchis is on the sea. Through it flows thePhasis, a large river having its sources inArmenia and receiving the waters of theGlaucus and the Hippus, which issue from the neighboring mountains. It is navigated as far asSarapana, a fortress capable of admitting the population even of a city. From here people go by land to theCyrus in four days by a wagon road. On thePhasis is situated a city bearing the same name, an emporium of theColchi, which is protected on one side by the river, on another by a lake, and on another by the sea. Thence people go toAmisus andSinope by sea (a voyage of two or three days), because the shores are soft and because of the outlets of the rivers. The country is excellent both in respect to its produce — except its honey, which is generally bitter — and in respect to every thing that pertains to shipbuilding; for it not only produces quantities of timber but also brings it down on rivers. And the people make linen in quantities, and hemp, wax, and pitch. Their linen industry has been famed far and wide; for they used to export linen to outside places; and some writers, wishing to show forth a kinship between theColchians and theEgyptians, confirm their belief by this. Above the aforesaid rivers in theMoschian country lies the sanctuary ofLeucothea, founded byPhrixus, and the oracle ofPhrixus, where a ram is never sacrificed; it was once rich, but it was robbed in our time byPharnaces, and a little later byMithridates ofPergamum. For when a country is devastated, "things divine are in sickly plight and wont not even to be respected," saysEuripides.
§ 11.2.18 The great fame this country had in early times is disclosed by the myths, which refer in an obscure way to the expedition ofJason as having proceeded as far even asMedia, and also, before that time, to that ofPhrixus. After this, when kings succeeded to power, the country being divided into "sceptuchies," they were only moderately prosperous; but whenMithridates Eupator grew powerful, the country fell into his hands; and he would always send one of his friends as sub-governor or administrator of the country. Among these wasMoaphernes, my mother's uncle on her father's side. And it was from this country that the king received most aid in the equipment of his naval forces. But when the power ofMithridates had been broken up, all the territory subject to him was also broken up and distributed among many persons. At lastPolemon gotColchis; and since his death his wifePythodoris has been in power, being queen, not only of theColchians, but also ofTrapezus andPharnacia and of the barbarians who live above these places, concerning whom I shall speak later on. Now theMoschian country, in which is situated the sanctuary, is divided into three parts: one part is held by theColchians, another by theIberians, and another by theArmenians. There is also a small city inIberia, the city ofPhrixus, the present Ideessa, well fortified, on the confines ofColchis. And nearDioscurias flows theChares River.
§ 11.2.19 Among the tribes which come together atDioscurias are thePhtheirophagi, who have received their name from their squalor and their filthiness. Near them are theSoanes, who are no less filthy, but superior to them in power, — indeed, one might almost say that they are foremost in courage and power. At any rate, they are masters of the peoples around them, and hold possession of the heights of theCaucasus aboveDioscurias. They have a king and a council of three hundred men; and they assemble, according to report, an army of two hundred thousand; for the whole of the people are a fighting force, though unorganized. It is said that in their country gold is carried down by the mountain torrents, and that the barbarians obtain it by means of perforated troughs and fleecy skins, and that this is the origin of the myth of theGolden Fleece — unless they call themIberians, by the same name as the westernIberians, from the gold mines in both countries. TheSoanes use remarkable poisons for the points of their missiles; and even people who are not wounded by the poisoned missiles suffer from their odor. Now in general the tribes in the neighborhood of theCaucasus occupy barren and cramped territories, but the tribes of theAlbanians and theIberians, which occupy nearly all the isthmus above-mentioned, might also be calledCaucasian tribes; and they possess territory that is fertile and capable of affording an exceedingly good livelihood.
§ 11.3.1 Iberia Furthermore, the greater part ofIberia is so well built up in respect to cities and farmsteads that their roofs are tiled, and their houses as well as their marketplaces and other public buildings are constructed with architectural skill.
§ 11.3.2 Parts of the country are surrounded by theCaucasian Mountains; for branches of these mountains, as I said before, project towards the south; they are fruitful, comprise the whole ofIberia, and border on bothArmenia andColchis. In the middle is a plain intersected by rivers, the largest being theCyrus. This river has its beginning inArmenia, flows immediately into the plain above-mentioned, receives both theAragus, which flows from theCaucasus, and other streams, and empties through a narrow valley intoAlbania; and between the valley andArmenia it flows in great volume through plains that have exceedingly good pasture, receives still more rivers, among which are theAlazonius, Sandobanes, Rhoetaces, and Chanes, all navigable, and empties into theCaspian Sea. It was formerly calledCorus.
§ 11.3.3 Now the plain of theIberians is inhabited by people who are rather inclined to farming and to peace, and they dress after both theArmenian and theMedian fashion; but the major, or warlike, portion occupy the mountainous territory, living like theScythians and theSarmatians, of whom they are both neighbors and kinsmen; however, they engage also in farming. And they assemble many tens of thousands, both from their own people and from theScythians andSarmatians, whenever anything alarming occurs.
§ 11.3.4 There are four passes leading into their country; one throughSarapana, aColchian stronghold, and through the narrow defiles there. Through these defiles thePhasis, which has been made passable by one hundred and twenty bridges because of the windings of its course, flows down intoColchis with rough and violent stream, the region being cut into ravines by many torrents at the time of the heavy rains. ThePhasis rises in the mountains that lie above it, where it is supplied by many springs; and in the plains it receives still other rivers, among which are theGlaucus and the Hippus. Thus filled and having by now become navigable, it issues forth into thePontus; and it has on its banks a city bearing the same name; and near it is a lake. Such, then, is the pass that leads fromColchis intoIberia, being shut in by rocks, by strongholds, and by rivers that run through ravines.
§ 11.3.5 From the country of the nomads on the north there is a difficult ascent intoIberia requiring three days' travel; and after this ascent comes a narrow valley on theAragus River, with a single file road requiring a four days' journey. The end of the road is guarded by a fortress which is hard to capture. The pass leading fromAlbania intoIberia is at first hewn through rock, and then leads through a marsh formed by the RiverAlazonius, which falls from theCaucasus. The passes fromArmenia intoIberia are the defiles on theCyrus and those on theAragus. For, before the two rivers meet, they have on their banks fortified cities that are situated upon rocks, these being about sixteen stadia distant from each other — I mean Harmozice on theCyrus and Seusamora on the other river. These passes were used first byPompey when he set out from the country of theArmenians, and afterwards byCanidius.
§ 11.3.6 There are also four castes among the inhabitants ofIberia. One, and the first of all, is that from which they appoint their kings, the appointee being both the nearest of kin to his predecessor and the eldest, whereas the second in line administers justice and commands the army. The second caste is that of the priests, who among other things attend to all matters of controversy with the neighboring peoples. The third is that of the soldiers and the farmers. And the fourth is that of the common people, who are slaves of the king and perform all the services that pertain to human livelihood. Their possessions are held in common by them according to families, although the eldest is ruler and steward of each estate. Such are theIberians and their country.
§ 11.4.1 Albanians TheAlbanians are more inclined to the shepherd's life than theIberians and closer akin to the nomadic people, except that they are not ferocious; and for this reason they are only moderately warlike. They live between theIberians and theCaspian Sea, their country bordering on the sea towards the east and on the country of theIberians towards the west. Of the remaining sides the northern is protected by theCaucasian Mountains (for these mountains lie above the plains, though their parts next to the sea are generally calledCeraunian), whereas the southern side is formed byArmenia, which stretches alongside it; and much ofArmenia consists of plains, though much of it is mountainous, like Cambysene, where theArmenians border on both theIberians and theAlbanians.
§ 11.4.2 TheCyrus, which flows throughAlbania, and the other rivers by which it is supplied, contribute to the excellent qualities of the land; and yet they thrust back the sea, for the silt, being carried forward in great quantities, fills the channel, and consequently even the adjacent isles are joined to the mainland and form shoals that are uneven and difficult to avoid; and their unevenness is made worse by the backwash of the flood tides. Moreover, they say that the outlet of the river is divided into twelve mouths, of which some are choked with silt, while the others are altogether shallow and leave not even a mooring place. At any rate, they add, although the shore is washed on all sides by the sea and the rivers for a distance of more than sixty stadia, every part of it is inaccessible; and the silt extends even as far as five hundred stadia, making the shore sandy. Near by is also the mouth of theAraxes, a turbulent stream that flows down fromArmenia. But the silt which this river pushes before it, thus making the channel passable for its stream, is compensated for by theCyrus.
§ 11.4.3 Now perhaps a people of this kind have no need of a sea; indeed, they do not make appropriate use of their land either, which produces, not only every kind of fruit, even the most highly cultivated kind, but also every plant, for it bears even the evergreens. It receives not even slight attention, yet "all things spring up for them without sowing and ploughing, according to those who have made expeditions there, who describe the mode of life there as "Cyclopeian." In many places, at any rate, they say, the land when sown only once produces two crops or even three, the first a crop of even fifty-fold, and that too without being ploughed between crops; and even when it is ploughed, it is not ploughed with an iron share, but with a wooden plough shaped by nature. The plain as a whole is better watered by its rivers and other waters than theBabylonian and theEgyptian plains; consequently it always keeps a grassy appearance, and therefore is also good for pasturage. In addition to this, the climate here is better than there. And the people never dig about the vines, although they prune them every fifth year; the new vines begin to produce fruit the second year, and when mature they yield so much that the people leave a large part of the fruit on the branches. Also thecattle in their country thrive, both the tame and the wild.
§ 11.4.4 The inhabitants of this country are unusually handsome and large. And they are frank in their dealings, and not mercenary; for they do not in general use coined money, nor do they know any number greater than one hundred, but carry on business by means of barter, and otherwise live an easy-going life. They are also unacquainted with accurate measures and weights, and they take no forethought for war or government or farming. But still they fight both on foot and on horseback, both in light armour and in full armour, like theArmenians.
§ 11.4.5 They send forth a greater army than that of theIberians; for they equip sixty thousand infantry and twenty-two thousand horsemen, the number with which they risked their all againstPompey. Against outsiders the nomads join with theAlbanians in war, just as they do with theIberians, and for the same reasons; and besides, they often attack the people, and consequently prevent them from farming. TheAlbanians use javelins and bows; and they wear breastplates and large oblong shields, and helmets made of the skins of wild animals, similar to those worn by theIberians. To the country of theAlbanians belongs also the territory calledCaspiane, which was named after theCaspian tribe, as was also the sea; but the tribe has now disappeared. The pass fromIberia intoAlbania leads through Cambysene, a waterless and rugged country, to theAlazonius River. Both the people and theirdogs are surpassingly fond of hunting, engaging in it not so much because of their skill in it as because of their love for it.
§ 11.4.6 Their kings, also, are excellent. At the present time, indeed, one king rules all the tribes, but formerly the several tribes were ruled separately by kings of their own according to their several languages. They have twenty-six languages, because of the fact that they have no easy means of intercourse with one another. The country produces also certain of the deadly reptiles, and scorpions and phalangia. Some of the phalangia cause people to die laughing, while others cause people to die weeping over the loss of their deceased kindred.
§ 11.4.7 As for gods, they honorHelius,Zeus, andSelene, but especiallySelene; her sanctuary is nearIberia. The office of priest is held by the man who, after the king, is held in highest honor; he has charge of the sacred land, which is extensive and well-populated, and also of the temple slaves, many of whom are subject to religious frenzy and utter prophecies. And any one of those who, becoming violently possessed, wanders alone in the forests, is by the priest arrested, bound with sacred fetters, and sumptuously maintained during that year, and then led forth to the sacrifice that is performed in honor of the goddess, and, being anointed, is sacrificed along with other victims. The sacrifice is performed as follows: Some person holding a sacred lance, with which it is the custom to sacrifice human victims, comes forward out of the crowd and strikes the victim through the side into the heart, he being not without experience in such a task; and when the victim falls, they draw auguries from his fall and declare them before the public; and when the body is carried to a certain place, they all trample upon it, thus using it as a means of purification.
§ 11.4.8 TheAlbanians are surpassingly respectful to old age, not merely to their parents, but to all other old people. And when people die it is impious to be concerned about them or even to mention them. Indeed, they bury their money with them, and therefore live in poverty, having no patrimony. So much for theAlbanians. It is said thatJason, together withArmenus theThessalian, on his voyage to the country of theColchians, pressed on from there as far as theCaspian Sea, and visited, not onlyIberia andAlbania, but also many parts ofArmenia andMedia, as both theJasonia and several other memorials testify. And it is said thatArmenus was a native ofArmenium, one of the cities on LakeBoebeis betweenPherae andLarisa, and that his followers took up their abode inAcilisene andSyspiritis, occuping the country as far as Calachane andAdiabene; and indeed that he leftArmenia named after himself.
§ 11.5.1 Amazons TheAmazons, also, are said to live in the mountains aboveAlbania. NowTheophanes, who made the expedition withPompey and was in the country of theAlbanians, says that theGelae and theLegae,Scythian people, live between theAmazons and theAlbanians, and that the Mermadalis River flows there, midway between these people and theAmazons. But others, among whom areMetrodorus ofScepsis andHypsicrates, who themselves, likewise, were not unacquainted with the region in question, say that theAmazons live on the borders of the Gargarians, in the northerly foothills of those parts of theCaucasian Mountains which are called Ceraunian; that theAmazons spend the rest of their time off to themselves, performing their several individual tasks, such as ploughing, planting, pasturingcattle, and particularly in traininghorses, though the bravest engage mostly in hunting on horseback and practise warlike exercises; that the right breasts of all are seared when they are infants, so that they can easily use their right arm for every needed purpose, and especially that of throwing the javelin; that they also use bow and sagaris and light shield, and make the skins of wild animals serve as helmets, clothing, and girdles; but that they have two special months in the spring in which they go up into the neighboring mountain which separates them and the Gargarians. The Gargarians also, in accordance with an ancient custom, go up thither to offer sacrifice with theAmazons and also to have intercourse with them for the sake of begetting children, doing this in secrecy and darkness, any Gargarian at random with anyAmazon; and after making them pregnant they send them away; and the females that are born are retained by theAmazons themselves, but the males are taken to the Gargarians to be brought up; and each Gargarian to whom a child is brought adopts the child as his own, regarding the child as his son because of his uncertainty.
§ 11.5.2 The Mermodas dashes down from the mountains through the country of theAmazons and through Siracene and the intervening desert and then empties into LakeMaeotis. It is said that the Gargarians went up fromThemiscyra into this region with theAmazons, then revolted from them and in company with someThracians andEuboeans who had wandered thus far carried on war against them, and that they later ended the war against them and made a compact on the conditions above-mentioned, that is, that they should have dealings with one another only in the matter of children, and that each people should live independent of the other.
§ 11.5.3 A peculiar thing has happened in the case of the account we have of theAmazons; for our accounts of other peoples keep a distinction between the mythical and the historical elements; for the things that are ancient and false and monstrous are called myths, but history wishes for the truth, whether ancient or recent, and contains no monstrous element, or else only rarely. But as regards theAmazons, the same stories are told now as in early times, though they are marvellous and beyond belief. For instance, who could believe that an army of women, or a city, or a tribe, could ever be organized without men, and not only be organized, but even make inroads upon the territory of other people, and not only overpower the peoples near them to the extent of advancing as far as what is nowIonia, but even send an expedition across the sea as far asAttica? For this is the same as saying that the men of those times were women and that the women were men. Nevertheless, even at the present time these very stories are told about theAmazons, and they intensify the peculiarity above-mentioned and our belief in the ancient accounts rather than those of the present time.
§ 11.5.4 At any rate, the founding of cities and the giving of names to them are ascribed to theAmazons, as, for instance,Ephesus andSmyrna andCyme andMyrine; and so are tombs and other monuments; andThemiscyra and the plains aboutThermodon and the mountains that lie above them are by all writers mentioned as having belonged to theAmazons; but they say that theAmazons were driven out of these places. Only a few writers make assertions as to where they are at the present time, but their assertions are without proof and beyond belief, as in the case of Thalestria, queen of theAmazons, with whom, they say,Alexander associated inHyrcania and had intercourse for the sake of offspring; for this assertion is not generally accepted. Indeed, of the numerous historians, those who care most for the truth do not make the assertion, nor do those who are most trustworthy mention any such thing, nor do those who tell the story agree in their statements.Cleitarchus says that Thalestria set out from theCaspian Gates andThermodon and visitedAlexander; but the distance from theCaspian country toThermodon is more than six thousand stadia.
§ 11.5.5 The stories that have been spread far and wide with a view to glorifyingAlexander are not accepted by all; and their fabricators were men who cared for flattery rather than truth. For instance: they transferred theCaucasus into the region of theIndian mountains and of the eastern sea which lies near those mountains from the mountains which lie aboveColchis and theEuxine; for these are the mountains which the Greeks namedCaucasus, which is more than thirty thousand stadia distant fromIndia; and here it was that they laid the scene of the story ofPrometheus and of his being put in bonds; for these were the farthermost mountains towards the east that were known to writers of that time. And the expedition ofDionysus andHeracles to the country of theIndians looks like a mythical story of later date, becauseHeracles is said to have releasedPrometheus one thousand years later. And although it was a more glorious thing forAlexander to subdueAsia as far as theIndian mountains than merely to the recess of theEuxine and to theCaucasus, yet the glory of the mountain, and its name, and the belief thatJason and his followers had accomplished the longest of all expeditions, reaching as far as the neighborhood of theCaucasus, and the tradition thatPrometheus was bound at the ends of the earth on theCaucasus, led writers to suppose that they would be doing the king a favor if they transferred the nameCaucasus toIndia.
§ 11.5.6 Now the highest parts of the realCaucasus are the most southerly — those next toAlbania,Iberia, and theColchians, and theHeniochians. They are inhabited by the peoples who, as I have said, assemble atDioscurias; and they assemble there mostly in order to get salt. Of these tribes, some occupy the ridges of the mountains, while the others have their abodes in glens and live mostly on the flesh of wild animals, and on wild fruits and milk. The summits of the mountains are impassable in winter, but the people ascend them in summer by fastening to their feet broad shoes made of rawox-hide, like drums, and furnished with spikes, on account of the snow and the ice. They descend with their loads by sliding down seated upon skins, as is the custom in AtropatianMedia and on MountMasius inArmenia; there, however, the people also fasten wooden discs furnished with spikes to the soles of their shoes. Such, then, are the heights of theCaucasus.
§ 11.5.7 As one descends into the foothills, the country inclines more towards the north, but its climate is milder, for there it borders on the plains of theSiraces. And here are also someTroglodytae, who, on account of the cold, live in caves; but even in their country there is plenty of barley. After theTroglodytae one comes to certain Chamaecoetae and Polyphagi, as they are called, and to the villages of theEisadici, who are able to farm because they are not altogether exposed to the north.
§ 11.5.8 The next peoples to which one comes between LakeMaeotis and theCaspian Sea are nomads, theNabiani and thePanxani, and then next the tribes of theSiraces and theAorsi. TheAorsi and theSiraces are thought to be fugitives from the upper tribes of those names and theAorsi are more to the north than theSiraces. Now Abeacus, king of theSiraces, sent forth twenty thousand horsemen at the time whenPharnaces held theBosporus; and Spadines, king of theAorsi, two hundred thousand; but the upperAorsi sent a still larger number, for they held dominion over more land, and, one may almost say, ruled over most of theCaspian coast; and consequently they could import oncamels theIndian andBabylonian merchandise, receiving it in their turn from theArmenians and theMedes, and also, owing to their wealth, could wear golden ornaments. Now theAorsi live along theTanais, but theSiraces live along the Achardeus, which flows from theCaucasus and empties into LakeMaeotis.
§ 11.6.1 Caspian Sea The second portion begins at theCaspian Sea, at which the first portion ends. The same sea is also calledHyrcanian. But I must first describe this sea and the tribes which live about it. This sea is the gulf which extends from the ocean towards the south; it is rather narrow at its entrance, but it widens out as it advances inland, and especially in the region of its recess, where its width is approximately five thousand stadia. The length of the voyage from its entrance to its recess might be slightly more than that, since its entrance is approximately on the borders of the uninhabited world.Eratosthenes says that the circuit of this sea was known to the Greeks; that the part along the coast of theAlbanians and theCadusians is five thousand four hundred stadia; and that the part along the coast of theAnariaci and Mardi andHyrcani to the mouth of theOxus River is four thousand eight hundred, and thence to theIaxartes, two thousand four hundred. But we must understand in a more general sense the accounts of this portion and the regions that lie so far removed, particularly in the matter of distances.
§ 11.6.2 On the right, as one sails into theCaspian Sea, are thoseScythians, orSarmatians, who live in the country contiguous to Europe between theTanais River and this sea; the greater part of them are nomads, of whom I have already spoken. On the left are the easternScythians, also nomads, who extend as far as the Eastern Sea andIndia. Now all the peoples towards the north were by the ancient Greek historians given the general name "Scythians" or "Celtoscythians"; but the writers of still earlier times, making distinctions between them, called those who lived above theEuxine and theIster and theAdriatic "Hyperboreans," "Sauromatians," and "Arimaspians," and they called those who lived across theCaspian Sea in part "Sacians" and in part "Massagetans," but they were unable to give any accurate account of them, although they reported a war betweenCyrus and theMassagetans. However, neither have the historians given an accurate and truthful account of these peoples, nor has much credit been given to the ancient history of thePersians orMedes or Syrians, on account of the credulity of the historians and their fondness for myths.
§ 11.6.3 For, seeing that those who were professedly writers of myths enjoyed repute, they thought that they too would make their writings pleasing if they told in the guise of history what they had never seen, nor even heard — or at least not from persons who knew the facts — with this object alone in view, to tell what afforded their hearers pleasure and amazement. One could more easily believeHesiod andHomer in their stories of the heroes thanCtesias,Herodotus,Hellanicus, and other writers of this kind.
§ 11.6.4 Neither is it easy to believe most of those who have written the history ofAlexander; for these toy with facts, both because of the glory ofAlexander and because his expedition reached the ends ofAsia, far away from us; and statements about things that are far away are hard to refute. But the supremacy of the Romans and that of theParthians has disclosed considerably more knowledge than that which had previously come down to us by tradition; for those who write about those distant regions tell a more trustworthy story than their predecessors, both of the places and of the tribes among which the activities took place, for they have looked into the matter more closely.
§ 11.7.1 Those nomads, however, who live along the coast on the left as one sails into theCaspian Sea are by the writers of today calledDaae, I mean, those who are surnamedAparni; then, in front of them, intervenes a desert country; and next comesHyrcania, where theCaspian resembles an open sea to the point where it borders on theMedian andArmenian mountains. The shape of these mountains is crescent-like along the foothills, which end at the sea and form the recess of the gulf. This side of the mountains, beginning at the sea, is inhabited as far as their heights for a short stretch by a part of theAlbanians and theArmenians, but for the most part byGelae,Cadusii,Amardi, Vitii, andAnariacae. They say that some of theParrhasii took up their abode with theAnariacae, who, they say, are now called Parsii; and that theAenianes built a walled city in the Vitian territory, which, they say, is called Aeniana; and that Greek armour, brazen vessels, and burial places are to be seen there; and that there is also a city Anariace there, in which, they say, is to be seen an oracle for sleepers, and some other tribes that are more inclined to brigandage and war than to farming; but this is due to the ruggedness of the region. However, the greater part of the seaboard round the mountainous country is occupied byCadusii, for a stretch of almost five thousand stadia, according toPatrocles, who considers this sea almost equal to thePontic Sea. Now these regions have poor soil.
§ 11.7.2 ButHyrcania is exceedingly fertile, extensive, and in general level; it is distinguished by notable cities, among which are Talabroce, Samariane,Carta, and the royal residence Tape, which, they say, is situated slightly above the sea and at a distance of one thousand four hundred stadia from theCaspian Gates. And because of its particular kind of prosperity writers go on to relate evidences thereof: the vine produces one metretes of wine, and the fig-tree sixty medimni; the grain grows up from the seed that falls from the stalk;bees have their hives in the trees, and honey drips from the leaves; and this is also the case inMatiane inMedia, and inSacasene and Araxene inArmenia. However, neither the country itself nor the sea that is named after it has received proper attention, the sea being both without vessels and unused. There are islands in this sea which could afford a livelihood, and, according to some writers, contain gold ore. The cause of this lack of attention was the fact that the first governors of theHyrcanians, I mean theMedes andPersians, as also the last, I mean theParthians, who were inferior to the former, were barbarians, and also the fact that the whole of the neighboring country was full of brigands and nomads and deserted regions. TheMacedonians did indeed rule over the country for a short time, but they were so occupied with wars that they could not attend to their remote possessions. According toAristobulus,Hyrcania, which is a wooded country, has the oak, but does not produce the torch-pine or fir or stone-pine, thoughIndia abounds in these trees.Nesaea, also, belongs toHyrcania, though some writers set it down as an independent district.
§ 11.7.3 Hyrcania is traversed by the riversOchus andOxus to their outlets into the sea; and of these, theOchus flows also throughNesaea, but some say that theOchus empties into theOxus.Aristobulus declares that theOxus is the largest of the rivers he has seen inAsia, except those inIndia. And he further says that it is navigable (both he andEratosthenes taking this statement fromPatrocles) and that large quantities ofIndian wares are brought down on it to theHyrcanian sea, and thence on that sea are transported toAlbania and brought down on theCyrus River and through the region that comes next after it to theEuxine. TheOchus is not mentioned at all by the ancient writers.Apollodorus, however, who wrote the Parthica, names it continually, implying that it flows very close to the country of theParthians.
§ 11.7.4 Many false notions were also added to the account of this sea because ofAlexander's love of glory; for, since it was agreed by all that theTanais separatedAsia from Europe, and that the region between the sea and theTanais, being a considerable part ofAsia, had not fallen under the power of theMacedonians, it was resolved to manipulate the account ofAlexander's expedition so that in fame at least he might be credited with having conquered those parts ofAsia too. They therefore united lakeMaeotis, which receives theTanais, with theCaspian Sea, calling this too a lake and asserting that both were connected with one another by an underground passage and that each was a part of the other.Polycleitus goes on to adduce proofs in connection with his belief that the sea is a lake (for instance, he says that it producesserpents, and that its water is sweetish); and that it is no other thanMaeotis he judges from the fact that theTanais empties into it. From the sameIndian mountains, where theOchus and theOxus and several other rivers rise, flows also theIaxartes, which, like those rivers, empties into theCaspian Sea and is the most northerly of them all. This river, accordingly, they namedTanais; and in addition to so naming it they gave as proof that it was theTanais mentioned byPolycleitus that the country on the far side of this river produces the fir-tree and that theScythians in that region use arrows made of fir-wood; and they say that this is also evidence that the country on the far side belongs to Europe and not toAsia, for, they add, Upper and EasternAsia does not produce the fir-tree. ButEratosthenes says that the fir-tree grows also inIndia and thatAlexander built his fleet out of fir-wood from there.Eratosthenes tries to reconcile many other differences of this kind, but as for me, let what I have said about them suffice.
§ 11.7.5 This too, among the marvellous things recorded ofHyrcania, is related byEudoxus and others: that there are some cliffs facing the sea with caverns underneath, and between these and the sea, below the cliffs, is a low-lying shore; and that rivers flowing from the precipices above rush forward with so great force that when they reach the cliffs they hurl their waters out into the sea without wetting the shore, so that even armies can pass underneath sheltered by the stream above; and the natives often come down to the place for the sake of feasting and sacrifice, and sometimes they recline in the caverns down below and sometimes they enjoy themselves basking in the sunlight beneath the stream itself, different people enjoying themselves in different ways, having in sight at the same time on either side both the sea and the shore, which latter, because of the moisture, is grassy and abloom with flowers.
§ 11.8.1 Sacae As one proceeds from theHyrcanian Sea towards the east, one sees on the right the mountains that extend as far as the Indian Sea, which by the Greeks are named theTaurus. Beginning atPamphylia andCilicia they extend thus far in a continuous line from the west and bear various different names. In the northerly parts of the range dwell first theGelae andCadusii andAmardi, as I have said, and certain of theHyrcanians, and after them the tribe of theParthians and that of the Margianians and theArians; and then comes the desert which is separated fromHyrcania by the Sarnius River as one goes eastwards and towards theOchus River. The mountain which extends fromArmenia to this point, or a little short of it, is calledParachoathras. The distance from theHyrcanian Sea to the country of theArians is about six thousand stadia. Then comesBactriana, andSogdiana, and finally theScythian nomads. Now theMacedonians gave the nameCaucasus to all the mountains which follow in order after the country of theArians; but among the barbarians the extremities on the north were given the separate names "Paropamisus" and "Emoda" and "Imaus"; and other such names were applied to separate parts.
§ 11.8.2 On the left and opposite these peoples are situated theScythian or nomadic tribes, which cover the whole of the northern side. Now the greater part of theScythians, beginning at theCaspian Sea, are calledDaae, but those who are situated more to the east than these are namedMassagetae andSacae, whereas all the rest are given the general name ofScythians, though each people is given a separate name of its own. They are all for the most part nomads. But the best known of the nomads are those who took awayBactriana from the Greeks, I mean theAsii, Pasiani,Tochari, and Sacarauli, who originally came from the country on the other side of theIaxartes River that adjoins that of theSacae and theSogdiani and was occupied by theSacae. And as for theDaae, some of them are calledAparni, some Xanthii, and some Pissuri. Now of these theAparni are situated closest toHyrcania and the part of the sea that borders on it, but the remainder extend even as far as the country that stretches parallel toAria.
§ 11.8.3 Between them andHyrcania andParthia and extending as far as theArians is a great waterless desert, which they traversed by long marches and then overranHyrcania,Nesaea, and the plains of theParthians. And these people agreed to pay tribute, and the tribute was to allow the invaders at certain appointed times to overrun the country and carry off booty. But when the invaders overran their country more than the agreement allowed, war ensued, and in turn their quarrels were composed and new wars were begun. Such is the life of the other nomads also, who are always attacking their neighbors and then in turn settling their differences.
§ 11.8.4 TheSacae, however, made raids like those ofCimmerians andTreres, some into regions close to their own country, others into regions farther away. For instance, they occupiedBactriana, and acquired possession of the best land inArmenia, which they left named after themselves,Sacasene; and they advanced as far as the country of theCappadocians, particularly those situated close to theEuxine, who are now called thePontici. But when they were holding a general festival and enjoying their booty, they were attacked by night by thePersian generals who were then in that region and utterly wiped out. And these generals, heaping up a mound of earth over a certain rock in the plain, completed it in the form of a hill, and erected on it a wall, and established the sanctuary ofAnaitis and the gods who share her altar —Omanus and Anadatus,Persian deities; and they instituted an annual sacred festival, theSacaea, which the inhabitants ofZela (for thus the place is called) continue to celebrate to the present day. It is a small city belonging for the most part to the temple slaves. ButPompey added considerable territory to it, settled the inhabitants thereof within the walls, and made it one of the cities which he organized after his overthrow ofMithridates.
§ 11.8.5 Now this is the account which some writers give of theSacae. Others say thatCyrus made an expedition against theSacae, was defeated in the battle, and fled; but that he encamped in the place where he had left behind his supplies, which consisted of an abundance of everything and especially of wine, rested his army a short time, and set out at nightfall, as though he were in flight, leaving the tents full of supplies; and that he proceeded as far as he thought best and halted; and that theSacae pursued, found the camp empty of men but full of things conducive to enjoyment, and filled themselves to the full; and thatCyrus turned back, and found them drunk and crazed, so that some were slain while lying stupefied and asleep, whereas others fell victims to the arms of the enemy while dancing and revelling naked, and almost all perished; andCyrus, regarding the happy issue as of divine origin, consecrated that day to the goddess of his fathers and called itSacaea; and that wherever there is a sanctuary of this goddess, there the festival of theSacaea, a kind of Bacchic festival, is the custom, at which men, dressed in theScythian garb, pass day and night drinking and playing wantonly with one another, and also with the women who drink with them.
§ 11.8.6 TheMassagetae disclosed their valor in their war withCyrus, to which many writers refer again and again; and it is from these that we must get our information. Statements to the following effect are made concerning theMassagetae: that some of them inhabit mountains, some plains, others marshes which are formed by the rivers, and others the islands in the marshes. But the country is inundated most of all, they say, by theAraxes River, which splits into numerous branches and empties by its other mouths into the other sea on the north, though by one single mouth it reaches theHyrcanian Gulf. They regardHelius alone as god, and to him they sacrificehorses. Each man marries only one wife, but they use also the wives of others; not in secret, however, for the man who is to have intercourse with the wife of another hangs up his quiver on the wagon and has intercourse with her openly. And they consider it the best kind of death when they are old to be chopped up with the flesh ofcattle and eaten mixed up with that flesh. But those who die of disease are cast out as impious and worthy only to be eaten by wild beasts. They are good horsemen and foot-soldiers; they use bows, short swords, breastplates, and sagares made of brass; and in their battles they wear headbands and belts made of gold. And theirhorses have bits and girths made of gold. Silver is not found in their country, and only a little iron, but brass and gold in abundance.
§ 11.8.7 Now those who live in the islands, since they have no grain to sow, use roots and wild fruits as food, and they clothe themselves with the bark of trees (for they have nocattle either), and they drink the juice squeezed out of the fruit of the trees. Those who live in the marshes eat fish, and clothe themselves in the skins of theseals that run up thither from the sea. The mountaineers themselves also live on wild fruits; but they havesheep also, though only a few, and therefore they do not butcher them, sparing them for their wool and milk; and they variegate the color of their clothing by staining it with dyes whose colors do not easily fade. The inhabitants of the plains, although they possess land, do not till it, but in the nomadic orScythian fashion live onsheep and fish. Indeed, there not only is a certain mode of life common to all such peoples, of which I often speak, but their burials, customs, and their way of living as a whole, are alike, that is, they are self-assertive, uncouth, wild, and warlike, but, in their business dealings, straightforward and not given to deceit.
§ 11.8.8 Belonging to the tribe of theMassagetae and theSacae are also theAttasii and theChorasmii, to whomSpitamenes fled from the country of theBactriani and theSogdiani. He was one of thePersians who escaped fromAlexander, as did alsoBessus; and laterArsaces, when he fled fromSeleucus Callinicus, withdrew into the country of theApasiacae.Eratosthenes says that theArachoti andMassagetae are situated alongside theBactrians towards the west along theOxus River, and that theSacae and theSogdiani, with the whole of their lands, are situated oppositeIndia, but theBactriani only for a slight distance; for, he says, they are situated for the most part alongside theParopamisus, and theSacae and theSogdiani are separated from one another by theIaxartes River, and theSogdiani and theBactriani by theOxus River; and theTapyri live between theHyrcanians and theArians; and in a circuit round the sea after theHyrcanians one comes to theAmardi,Anariacae,Cadusii,Albani,Caspii, Vitii, and perhaps also other peoples, until one reaches theScythians; and on the other side of theHyrcanians areDerbices; and theCadusii border on theMedi andMatiani below theParachoathras.
§ 11.8.9 Eratosthenes gives the distances as follows: From Mt.Caspius to theCyrus River, about one thousand eight hundred stadia; thence to theCaspian Gates, five thousand six hundred; then toAlexandreia in the country of theArians, six thousand four hundred; then to the cityBactra, also calledZariaspa, three thousand eight hundred and seventy; then to theIaxartes River, to whichAlexander came, about five thousand; a distance all told of twenty-two thousand six hundred and seventy stadia. He gives also the distance from theCaspian Gates toIndia as follows: ToHecatompylus, one thousand nine hundred and sixty stadia; toAlexandreia in the country of the Arians, four thousand five hundred and thirty; then toProphthasia in Drangge, one thousand six hundred (others say one thousand five hundred); then to the city Arachoti, four thousand one hundred and twenty; then toOrtospana, to the junction of the three roads leading fromBactra, two thousand; then to the borders ofIndia, one thousand; a distance all told of fifteen thousand three hundred stadia. We must conceive of the length ofIndia, reckoned from theIndus River to the eastern sea, as continuous with this distance in a straight line. So much for theSacae.
§ 11.9.1 Parthia As for theParthian country, it is not large; at any rate, it paid its tribute along with theHyrcanians in thePersian times, and also after this, when for a long time theMacedonians held the mastery. And, in addition to its smallness, it is thickly wooded and mountainous, and also poverty stricken, so that on this account the kings send their own throngs through it in great haste, since the country is unable to support them even for a short time. At present, however, it has increased in extent. Parts of theParthian country areComisene and Chorene, and, one may almost say, the whole region that extends as far as theCaspian Gates andRhagae and theTapyri, which formerly belonged toMedia. And in the neighborhood ofRhagae are the citiesApameia and Heracleia. The distance from theCaspian Gates toRhagae is five hundred stadia, asApollodorus says, and toHecatompylus, the royal seat of theParthians, one thousand two hundred and sixty.Rhagae is said to have got its name from the earthquakes that took place in that country, by which numerous cities and two thousand villages, asPoseidonius says, were destroyed. TheTapyri are said to live between theDerbices and theHyrcanians. It is reported of theTapyri that it was a custom of theirs to give their wives in marriage to other husbands as soon as they had had two or three children by them; just as in our times, in accordance with an ancient custom of the Romans,Cato gaveMarcia in marriage toHortensius at the request of the latter.
§ 11.9.2 But when revolutions were attempted by the countries outside theTaurus, because of the fact that the kings ofSyria andMedia, who were in possession also of these countries, were busily engaged with others, those who had been entrusted with their government first caused the revolt ofBactriana and of all the country near it, I meanEuthydemus and his followers; and thenArsaces, aScythian, with some of theDaae (I mean the Aparnians, as they were called, nomads who lived along theOchus), invadedParthia and conquered it. Now at the outsetArsaces was weak, being continually at war with those who had been deprived by him of their territory, both he himself and his successors, but later they grew so strong, always taking the neighboring territory, through successes in warfare, that finally they established themselves as lords of the whole of the country inside theEuphrates. And they also took a part ofBactriana, having forced theScythians, and still earlierEucratides and his followers, to yield to them; and at the present time they rule over so much land and so many tribes that in the size of their empire they have become, in a way, rivals of the Romans. The cause of this is their mode of life, and also their customs, which contain much that is barbarian andScythian in character, though more that is conducive to hegemony and success in war.
§ 11.9.3 They say that the AparnianDaae were emigrants from theDaae above LakeMaeotis, who are called Xandii or Parii. But the view is not altogether accepted that theDaae are a part of theScythians who live aboutMaeotis. At any rate, some say thatArsaces derives his origin from theScythians, whereas others say that he was aBactrian, and that when in flight from the enlarged power ofDiodotus and his followers he causedParthia to revolt. But since I have said much about theParthian usages in the sixth book of my Historical Sketches and in the second book of my History of events afterPolybius, I shall omit discussion of that subject here, lest I may seem to be repeating what I have already said, though I shall mention this alone, that the Council of theParthians, according toPoseidonius, consists of two groups, one that of kinsmen, and the other that of wise men andMagi, from both of which groups the kings were appointed.
§ 11.10.1 MARGIANA:Aria andMargiana are the most powerful districts in this part ofAsia, these districts in part being enclosed by the mountains and in part having their habitations in the plains. Now the mountains are occupied by Tent-dwellers, and the plains are intersected by rivers that irrigate them, partly by theArius and partly by theMargus.Aria borders onMargiana and . . .Bactriana; it is about six thousand stadia distant fromHyrcania. And Drangiana, as far asCarmania, was joined withAria in the payment of tribute — Dragiana, for the most part, lying below the southern parts of the mountains, though some parts of it approach the northern region oppositeAria. ButArachosia, also, is not far away, this country too lying below the southern parts of the mountains and extending as far as theIndus River, being a part ofAriana. The length ofAria is about two thousand stadia, and the breadth of the plain about three hundred. Its cities areArtacaena andAlexandreia and Achaia, all named after their founders. The land is exceedingly productive of wine, which keeps good for three generations in vessels not smeared with pitch.
§ 11.10.2 Margiana is similar to this country, although its plain is surrounded by deserts. Admiring its fertility,Antiochus Soter enclosed a circuit of fifteen hundred stadia with a wall and founded a cityAntiocheia. The soil of the country is well suited to the vine; at any rate, they say that a stock of the vine is often found which would require two men to girth it, and that the bunches of grapes are two cubits.
§ 11.11.1 BACTRIA: As forBactria, a part of it lies alongsideAria towards the north, though most of it lies aboveAria and to the east of it. And much of it produces everything except oil. The Greeks who causedBactria to revolt grew so powerful on account of the fertility of the country that they became masters, not only ofAriana, but also ofIndia, asApollodorus ofArtemita says: and more tribes were subdued by them than byAlexander — byMenander in particular (at least if he actually crossed theHypanis towards the east and advanced as far as theImaus), for some were subdued by him personally and others byDemetrius, the son ofEuthydemus the king of theBactrians; and they took possession, not only of Patalena, but also, on the rest of the coast, of what is called the kingdom of Saraostus and Sigerdis. In short,Apollodorus says thatBactriana is the ornament ofAriana as a whole; and, more than that, they extended their empire even as far as theSeres and thePhryni.
§ 11.11.2 Their cities wereBactra (also calledZariaspa, through which flows a river bearing the same name and emptying into theOxus), and Darapsa, and several others. Among these was Eucratidia, which was named after its ruler. The Greeks took possession of it and divided it into satrapies, of which the satrapy Turiva and that of Aspionus were taken away fromEucratides by theParthians. And they also heldSogdiana, situated aboveBactriana towards the east between theOxus River, which forms the boundary between theBactrians and theSogdians, and theIaxartes River. And theIaxartes forms also the boundary between theSogdians and the nomads.
§ 11.11.3 Now in early times theSogdians andBactrians did not differ much from the nomads in their modes of life and customs, although theBactrians were a little more civilized; however, of these, as of the others,Onesicritus does not report their best traits, saying, for instance, that those who have become helpless because of old age or sickness are thrown out alive as prey todogs kept expressly for this purpose, which in their native tongue are called "under-takers," and that while the land outside the walls of the metropolis of theBactrians looks clean, yet most of the land inside the walls is full of human bones; but thatAlexander broke up the custom. And the reports about theCaspians are similar, for instance, that when parents live beyond seventy years they are shut in and starved to death. Now this latter custom is more tolerable; and it is similar to that of theCeians, although it is ofScythian origin; that of theBactrians, however, is still more like that of theScythians. And so, if it was proper to be in doubt as to the facts at the time whenAlexander was finding such customs there, what should one say as to what sort of customs were probably in vogue among them in the time of the earliestPersian rulers and the still earlier rulers?
§ 11.11.4 Be this as it may, they say thatAlexander founded eight cities inBactriana andSogdiana, and that he razed certain cities to the ground, among which was Cariatae inBactriana, in whichCallisthenes was seized and imprisoned, andMaracanda and Cyra inSogdiana, Cyra being the last city founded byCyrus and being situated on theIaxartes River, which was the boundary of thePersian empire; and that although this settlement was fond ofCyrus, he razed it to the ground because of its frequent revolts; and that through a betrayal he took also two strongly fortified rocks, one inBactriana, that ofSisimithres, whereOxyartes kept his daughterRhoxana, and the other inSogdiana, that ofOxus, though some call it the rock of Ariamazes. Now writers report that that ofSisimithres is fifteen stadia in height and eighty in circuit, and that on top it is level and has a fertile soil which can support five hundred men, and that hereAlexander met with sumptuous hospitality and marriedRhoxana, the daughter ofOxyartes; but the rock inSogdiana, they say, is twice as high as that inBactriana. And near these places, they say,Alexander destroyed also the city of theBranchidae, whomXerxes had settled there — people who voluntarily accompanied him from their homeland — because of the fact that they had betrayed to him the riches and treasures of the god atDidymi.Alexander destroyed the city, they add, because he abominated the sacrilege and the betrayal.
§ 11.11.5 Aristobulus calls the river which flows throughSogdianaPolytimetus, a name imposed by theMacedonians (just as they imposed names on many other places, giving new names to some and slightly altering the spelling of the names of others); and watering the country it empties into a desert and sandy land, and is absorbed in the sand, like theArius which flows through the country of theArians. It is said that people digging near theOchus River found oil. It is reasonable to suppose that, just as nitrous and astringent and bituminous and sulphurous liquids flow through the earth, so also oily liquids are found; but the rarity causes surprise. According to some, theOchus flows throughBactriana; according to others, alongside it. And according to some, it is a different river from theOxus as far as its mouths, being more to the south than theOxus, although they both have their outlets into theCaspian Sea inHyrcania, whereas others say that it is different at first, but unites with theOxus, being in many places as much as six or seven stadia wide. TheIaxartes, however, from beginning to end, is a different river from theOxus, and although it ends in the same sea, the mouths of the two, according toPatrocles, are about eighty parasangs distant from one another. ThePersian parasang, according to some, is sixty stadia, but according to others thirty or forty. When I was sailing up theNile, they used different measures when they named the distance in "schoeni" from city to city, so that in some places the same number of "schoeni" meant a longer voyage and in others a shorter; and thus the variations have been preserved to this day as handed down from the beginning.
§ 11.11.6 Now the tribes one encounters in going fromHyrcania towards the rising sun as far asSogdiana became known at first to thePersians — I mean the tribes insideTaurus — and afterwards to theMacedonians and to theParthians; and the tribes situated on the far side of those tribes and in a straight line with them are supposed, from their identity in kind, to beScythian, although no expeditions have been made against them that I know of, any more than against the most northerly of the nomads. NowAlexander did attempt to lead an expedition against these when he was in pursuit ofBessus andSpitamenes, but whenBessus was captured alive and brought back, andSpitamenes was slain by the barbarians, he desisted from his undertaking. It is not generally agreed that persons have sailed around fromIndia toHyrcania, butPatrocles states that it is possible.
§ 11.11.7 It is said that the last part of theTaurus, which is calledImaius and borders on the Indian Sea, neither extends eastwards farther thanIndia nor into it; but that, as one passes to the northern side, the sea gradually reduces the length and breadth of the country, and therefore causes to taper towards the east the portion ofAsia now being sketched, which is comprehended between theTaurus and the ocean that fills theCaspian Sea. The maximum length of this portion from theHyrcanian Sea to the ocean that is opposite theImaius is about thirty thousand stadia, the route being along the mountainous tract of theTaurus, and the breadth less than ten thousand; for, as has been said, the distance from theGulf of Issos to the eastern sea atIndia is about forty thousand stadia, and toIssus from the western extremity at thePillars of Heracles thirty thousand more. The recess of theGulf of Issos is only slightly, if at all, farther east thanAmisus, and the distance fromAmisus to theHyrcanian land is about ten thousand stadia, being parallel to that of the above-mentioned distance fromIssus toIndia. Accordingly, there remain thirty thousand stadia as the above-mentioned length towards the east of the portion now described. Again, since the maximum breadth of the inhabited world, which is chlamys-shaped, is about thirty thousand stadia, this distance would be measured near the meridian line drawn through theHyrcanian andPersian Seas, if it be true that the length of the inhabited world is seventy thousand stadia. Accordingly, if the distance fromHyrcania toArtemita inBabylonia is eight thousand stadia, as is stated byApollodorus ofArtemita, and the distance from there to the mouth of thePersian sea another eight thousand, and again eight thousand, or a little less, to the places that lie on the same parallel as the extremities ofEthiopia, there would remain of the above-mentioned breadth of the inhabited world the distance which I have already given, from the recess of theHyrcanian Sea to the mouth of that sea. Since this segment of the earth tapers towards the eastern parts, its shape would be like a cook's knife, the mountain being in a straight line and conceived of as corresponding to the edge of the knife, and the coast from the mouth of theHyrcanian Sea to Tamarum as corresponding to the other side of the knife, which ends in a line that curves sharply to the point.
§ 11.11.8 I must also mention some strange customs, everywhere talked about, of the utterly barbarous tribes; for instance, the tribes round theCaucasus and the mountainous country in general. WhatEuripides refers to is said to be a custom among some of them, "to lament the new-born babe, in view of all the sorrows it will meet in life, but on the other hand to carry forth from their homes with joy and benedictions those who are dead and at rest from their troubles; and it is said to be a custom among others to put to death none of the greatest criminals, but only to cast them and their children out of their borders — a custom contrary to that of theDerbices, for these slaughter people even for slight offences. TheDerbices worshipMother Earth; and they do not sacrifice, or eat, anything that is female; and when men become over seventy years of age they are slaughtered, and their flesh is consumed by their nearest of kin; but their old women are strangled and then buried. However, the men who die under seventy years of age are not eaten, but only buried. TheSiginni imitate thePersians in all their customs, except that they use ponies that are small and shaggy, which, though unable to carry a horseman, are yoked together in a four-horse team and are driven by women trained thereto from childhood; and the woman who drives best cohabits with whomever she wishes. Others are said to practise making their heads appear as long as possible and making their foreheads project beyond their chins. It is a custom of theTapyri for the men to dress in black and wear their hair long, and for the women to dress in white and wear their hair short. They live between theDerbices and theHyrcanians. And he who is adjudged the bravest marries whomever he wishes. TheCaspians starve to death those who are over seventy years of age and place their bodies out in the desert; and then they keep watch from a distance, and if they see them dragged from their biers by birds, they consider them fortunate, and if by wild beasts ordogs, less so, but if by nothing, they consider them cursed by fortune.
§ 11.12.1 Taurus Since the northern parts ofAsia are formed by theTaurus, — I mean the parts which are also called "Cis-Tauran"Asia, I have chosen to describe these first. These include all or most of the regions in the mountains themselves. All that lie farther east than theCaspian Gates admit of a simpler description because of the wildness of their inhabitants; and it would not make much difference whether they were named as belonging to this "clima" or that, whereas all that lie to the west afford abundant matter for description, and therefore I must proceed to the parts which are adjacent to theCaspian Gates. Adjacent to theCaspian Gates on the west isMedia, a country at one time both extensive and powerful, and situated in the midst of theTaurus, which is split into many parts in the region ofMedia and contains large valleys, as is also the case inArmenia.
§ 11.12.2 For this mountain has its beginning inCaria andLycia; there, indeed, it has neither any considerable breadth nor height, but it first rises to a considerable height opposite theChelidoniae, which are islands at the beginning of the coast ofPamphylia, and then stretching towards the east enclose long valleys, those inCilicia, and then on one side theAmanus Mountain splits off it and on the other theAntitaurus Mountain, in which latter is situatedComana, in UpperCappadocia, as it is called. Now theAntitaurus ends inCataonia, whereas the mountainAmanus extends to theEuphrates River and Melitina whereCommagene lies adjacent toCappadocia. And it is succeeded in turn by the mountains on the far side of theEuphrates, which are continuous with those aforementioned, except that they are cleft by the river that flows through the midst of them. Here its height and breadth greatly increase and its branches are more numerous. At all events, the most southerly part is theTaurus proper, which separatesArmenia fromMesopotamia.
§ 11.12.3 Thence flow both rivers, I mean theEuphrates and theTigris, which encircleMesopotamia and closely approach each other inBabylonia and then empty into thePersian sea. TheEuphrates is not only the larger of the two rivers, but also, with its winding stream, traverses more country, having its sources in the northerly region of theTaurus, and flowing towards the west through GreaterArmenia, as it is called, to LesserArmenia, having the latter on its right andAcilisene on the left. It then bends towards the south, and at its bend joins the boundaries ofCappadocia; and leaving these and the region ofCommagene on the right, andAcilisene andSophene in GreaterArmenia on the left, it runs on toSyria and again makes another bend intoBabylonia and thePersian Gulf. TheTigris, running from the southerly part of the same mountain toSeleuceia, approaches close to theEuphrates and with it formsMesopotamia, and then flows into the same gulf as theEuphrates. The sources of theEuphrates and theTigris are about two thousand five hundred stadia distant from each other.
§ 11.12.4 Now theTaurus has numerous branches towards the north, one of which is that of theAntitaurus, as it is called, for there too the mountain which enclosesSophene in a valley situated between itself and theTaurus was so named. On the far side of theEuphrates, nearLesser Armenia and next to theAntitaurus towards the north, there stretches a large mountain with many branches, one of which is calledParyadres, another theMoschian Mountains, and another which is called by various names; and these comprehend the whole ofArmenia as far asIberia andAlbania. Then other mountains rise towards the east, I mean those which lie above theCaspian Sea, extending as far asMedia, not only the AtropatianMedia but also the GreaterMedia. Not only all these parts of the mountains are calledParachoathras, but also those which extend to theCaspian Gates and those which extend still farther towards the east, I mean those which border onAria. The mountains on the north, then, bear these names, whereas those on the south, on the far side of theEuphrates, in their extent towards the east fromCappadocia andCommagene, are, at their beginning, calledTaurus proper, which separatesSophene and the rest ofArmenia fromMesopotamia; by some, however, these are called the Gordyaean Mountains, and among these belongs alsoMasius, the mountain which is situated aboveNisibis andTigranocerta. Then theTaurus rises higher and bears the nameNiphates; and somewhere here are the sources of theTigris, on the southern side of the mountainous country. Then from theNiphates the mountain chain extends still farther and farther and forms the mountainZagrus which separatesMedia andBabylonia. After theZagrus there follows, aboveBabylonia, the mountainous country of theElymaei and that of theParaetaceni, and also, aboveMedia, that of theCossaei. In the middle areMedia andArmenia, which comprise many mountains, many plateaus, and likewise many low plains and large valleys, and also numerous tribes that live round among the mountains and are small in numbers and range the mountains and for the most part are given to brigandage. Thus, then, I am placing inside theTaurus bothMedia, to which theCaspian Gates belong, andArmenia.
§ 11.12.5 According to the way in which I place them, then, these tribes would be towards the north, since they are inside theTaurus, butEratosthenes, who is the author of the division ofAsia into "SouthernAsia" and "NorthernAsia" and into "Sphragides," as he calls them, calling some of the "sphragides" "northern" and others "southern," represents theCaspian Gates as a boundary between the two "climata" reasonably, therefore, he might represent as "southern" the parts that are more southerly, stretching towards the east, than theCaspian Gates, among which areMedia andArmenia, and the more northerly as "northern," since this is the case no matter what distribution into parts is otherwise made of the country. But perhaps it did not strikeEratosthenes that no part either ofArmenia or ofMedia lay outside theTaurus.
§ 11.13.1 MediaMedia is divided into two parts. One part of it is called GreaterMedia, of which the metropolis isEcbatana, a large city containing the royal residence of theMedian empire (theParthians continue to use this as a royal residence even now, and their kings spend at least their summers there, forMedia is a cold country; but their winter residence is atSeleuceia, on theTigris nearBabylon). The other part is AtropatianMedia, which got its name from the commanderAtropates, who prevented also this country, which was a part of GreaterMedia, from becoming subject to theMacedonians. Furthermore, after he was proclaimed king, he organized this country into a separate state by itself, and his succession of descendants is preserved to this day, and his successors have contracted marriages with the kings of theArmenians and Syrians and, in later times, with the kings of theParthians.
§ 11.13.2 This country lies east ofArmenia andMatiane, west of GreaterMedia, and north of both; and it lies adjacent to the region round the recess of theHyrcanian Sea and toMatiane on the south. It is no small country, considering its power, asApollonides says, since it can furnish as many as ten thousand horsemen and forty thousand foot soldiers. It has a harbor, Capauta, in which salts effloresce and solidify. These salts cause itching and are painful, but this effect is relieved by olive-oil; and the water restores weathered garments, if perchance through ignorance one should dip them in it to wash them. They have powerful neighbors in theArmenians and theParthians, by whom they are often plundered. But still they hold out against them and get back what has been taken away from them, as, for example, they got back Symbace from theArmenians when the latter became subject to the Romans; and they themselves have attained to friendship withCaesar. But they are also paying court to theParthians at the same time.
§ 11.13.3 Their royal summer palace is situated in a plain at Gazaca, and their winter palace in a fortress called Vera, which was besieged byAntony on his expedition against theParthians. This fortress is distant from theAraxes, which forms the boundary betweenArmenia and Atropene, two thousand four hundred stadia, according toDellius, the friend ofAntony, who wrote an account ofAntony's expedition against theParthians, on which he accompaniedAntony and was himself a commander. All regions of this country are fertile except the part towards the north, which is mountainous and rugged and cold, the abode of the mountaineers calledCadusii,Amardi,Tapyri, Cyrtii and other such peoples, who are migrants and predatory; for theZagrus andNiphates keep these tribes scattered; and theCyrtii inPersis, and theMardi (for theAmardi are also thus called), and those inArmenia who to this day are called by the same name, are of the same character.
§ 11.13.4 TheCadusii, however, are but little short of theAriani in the number of their foot-soldiers; and their javelin-throwers are excellent; and in rugged places foot-soldiers instead of horsemen do the fighting. It was not the nature of the country that made the expedition difficult forAntony, but his guideArtavasdes, the king of theArmenians, whom, though plotting against him,Antony rashly made his counsellor and master of decisions respecting the war.Antony indeed punished him, but too late, when the latter had been proved guilty of numerous wrongs against the Romans, not only he himself, but also that other guide, who made the journey from theZeugma on theEuphrates to the borders of Atropene eight thousand stadia long, more than twice the direct journey, guiding the army over mountains and roadless regions and circuitous routes.
§ 11.13.5 In ancient times GreaterArmenia ruled the whole ofAsia, after it broke up the empire of the Syrians, but later, in the time ofAstyages, it was deprived of that great authority byCyrus and thePersians, although it continued to preserve much of its ancient dignity; andEcbatana was winter residence for thePersian kings, and likewise for theMacedonians who, after overthrowing thePersians, occupiedSyria; and still today it affords the kings of theParthians the same advantages and security.
§ 11.13.6 GreaterMedia is bounded on the east byParthia and the mountains of theCossaei, a predatory people, who once supplied theElymaei, with whom they were allies in the war against the Susians andBabylonians, with thirteen thousand bowmen.Nearchus says that there were four predatory tribes and that of these theMardi were situated next to thePersians; theUxii andElymaei next to theMardi and the Susians; and theCossaei next to the Medians; and that whereas all four exacted tribute from the kings, theCossaei also received gifts at the times when the king, after spending the summer inEcbatana, went down intoBabylonia; but thatAlexander put an end to their great audacity when he attacked them in the winter time. So then, GreaterMedia is bounded on the east by these tribes, and also by theParaetaceni, who border on thePersians and are themselves likewise mountaineers and predatory; on the north by theCadusii who live above theHyrcanian Sea, and by the other tribes which I have just described; on the south by Apollioniatis, which the ancients calledSitacene, and by the mountainZagrus, at the place whereMassabatice is situated, which belongs toMedia, though some say that it belongs toElymaea; and on the west by theAtropatii and certain of theArmenians. There are also some Greek cities inMedia, founded by theMacedonians, among which are Laodiceia, Apameia and the city nearRhagae, and Rhaga itself, which was founded byNicator. By him it was namedEuropus, but by theParthians Arsacia; it lies about five hundred stadia to the south of theCaspian Gates, according toApollodorus ofArtemita.
§ 11.13.7 Now most of the country is high and cold; and such, also, are the mountains which lie aboveEcbatana and those in the neighborhood ofRhagae and theCaspian Gates, and in general the northerly regions extending thence toMatiane andArmenia; but the region below theCaspian Gates, consisting of low-lying lands and hollows, is very fertile and productive of everything but the olive; and even if the olive is produced anywhere, it is dry and yields no oil. This, as well asArmenia, is an exceptionally good "horse-pasturing" country; and a certain meadow there is called "Horse-pasturing," and those who travel fromPersis andBabylon toCaspian Gates pass through it; and in the time of thePersians it is said that fifty thousand mares were pastured in it and that these herds belonged to the kings. As for theNesaeanhorses, which the kings used because they were the best and the largest, some writers say that the breed came from here, while others say fromArmenia. They are characteristically different in form, as are also theParthianhorses, as they are now called, as compared with theHelladic and the otherhorses in our country. Further, we call the grass that makes the best food forhorses by the special name "Medic," from the fact that it abounds there. The country also produces silphium; whence the "Medic" juice, as it is called, which in general is not much inferior to the "Cyrenaic" juice, but sometimes is even superior to it, either owing to regional differences, or because of a variation in the species of the plant, or even owing to the people who extract and prepare the juice in such a way as to conserve its strength for storage and for use.
§ 11.13.8 Such is the nature of the country. As for its size, its length and breadth are approximately equal. The greatest breadth ofMedia seems to be that from the pass that leads over theZagrus, which is called Medic Gate, to theCaspian Gates through Sigriane, four thousand one hundred stadia. The reports on the tributes paid agree with the size and the power of the country; forCappadocia paid thePersians yearly, in addition to the silver tax, fifteen hundredhorses, two thousand mules, and fifty thousandsheep, whereasMedia paid almost twice as much as this.
§ 11.13.9 As for customs, most of theirs and of those of theArmenians are the same, because their countries are similar. TheMedes, however, are said to have been the originators of customs for theArmenians, and also, still earlier, for thePersians, who were their masters and their successors in the supreme authority overAsia. For example, their "Persian" stole, as it is now called, and their zeal for archery and horsemanship, and the court they pay to their kings, and their ornaments, and the divine reverence paid by subjects to kings, came to thePersians from theMedes. And that this is true is particularly clear from their dress; for tiara, citaris, pilus, tunics with sleeves reaching to the hands, and trousers, are indeed suitable things to wear in cold and northerly regions, such as theMedes wear, but by no means in southerly regions; and most of the settlements possessed by thePersians were on theRed Sea, farther south than the country of theBabylonians and the Susians. But after the overthrow of theMedes thePersians acquired in addition certain parts of the country that reached toMedia. However, the customs even of the conquered looked to the conquerors so august and appropriate to royal pomp that they submitted to wear feminine robes instead of going naked or lightly clad, and to cover their bodies all over with clothes.
§ 11.13.10 Some say thatMedeia introduced this kind of dress when she, along withJason, held dominion in this region, even concealing her face whenever she went out in public in place of the king; and that the Jasonian hero-chapels, which are much revered by the barbarians, are memorials ofJason (and above theCaspian Gates on the left is a large mountain called Jasonium), whereas the dress and the name of the country are memorials ofMedeia. It is said also thatMedus her son succeeded to the empire and left his own name to the country. In agreement with this are theJasonia ofArmenia and the name of that country and several other things which I shall discuss.
§ 11.13.12 This, too, is a Medic custom — to choose the bravest man as king; not, however, among allMedes, but only among the mountaineers. More general is the custom for the kings to have many wives; this is the custom of the mountaineers of theMedes, and allMedes, and they are not permitted to have less than five; likewise, the women are said to account it an honorable thing to have as many husbands as possible and to consider less than five a calamity. But though the rest ofMedia is extremely fertile, the northerly mountainous part has poor soil; at any rate, the people live on the fruits of trees, making cakes out of apples that are sliced and dried, and bread from roasted almonds; and they squeeze out a wine from certain roots; and they use the meat of wild animals, but do not breed tame animals. Thus much I add concerning theMedes. As for the institutions in common use throughout the whole ofMedia, since they prove to have been the same as those of thePersians because of the conquest of thePersians, I shall discuss them in my account of the latter.
§ 11.14.1 Armenia As forArmenia, the southern parts of it have theTaurus situated in front of them, which separates it from the whole of the country between theEuphrates and theTigris, the country calledMesopotamia; and the eastern parts border on GreaterArmenia and Atropene; and on the north are the mountains ofParachoathras that lie above theCaspian Sea, andAlbania, andIberia, and theCaucasus, which last encircles these nations and borders onArmenia, and borders also on theMoschian andColchian mountains as far as theTibarani, as they are called; and on the west are these nations and the mountainsParyadres andScydises in their extent to LesserArmenia and the river land of theEuphrates, which latter separatesArmenia fromCappadocia andCommagene.
§ 11.14.2 For theEuphrates, having its beginnings on the northern side of theTaurus, flows at first towards the west throughArmenia, and then bends towards the south and cuts through theTaurus betweenArmenia,Cappadocia, andCommagene, and then, after falling outside theTaurus and reaching the borders ofSyria, it bends towards the winter-sunrise as far asBabylon, and with theTigris formsMesopotamia; and both rivers end in thePersian Gulf. Such, then, is our circuit ofArmenia, almost all parts being mountainous and rugged, except the few which verge towardsMedia. But since the above-mentionedTaurus takes a new beginning on the far side of theEuphrates oppositeCommagene andMelitene, countries formed by that river, Mt.Masius is the mountain which lies above theMygdonians ofMesopotamia on the south, in whose country isNisibis, whereasSophene is situated in the northern parts, betweenMasius andAntitaurus. TheAntitaurus takes its beginning at theEuphrates and theTaurus and ends towards the eastern parts ofArmenia, thus on one side enclosing the middle ofSophene, of theEuphrates, before that river bends towards the south. The royal city ofSophene isCarcathiocerta. Above Mt.Masius, far towards the east oppositeGordyene, lies Mt.Niphates; and then comes Mt.Abus, whence flow both theEuphrates and theAraxes, the former towards the west and the latter towards the east; and then Mt. Nibarus, which stretches as far asMedia.
§ 11.14.3 I have already described the course of theEuphrates. As for theAraxes, it first flows towards the east as far asAtropatene, and then bends towards the west and towards the north and flows first pastAzara and then pastArtaxata,Armenian cities, and then, passing through the Araxene Plain, empties into theCaspian Sea.
§ 11.14.4 InArmenia itself there are many mountains and many plateaus, in which not even the vine can easily grow; and also many valleys, some only moderately fertile, others very fertile, for instance, the Araxene Plain, through which theAraxes River flows to the extremities ofAlbania and then empties into theCaspian Sea. After these comesSacasene, this too bordering onAlbania and theCyrus River; and then comesGogarene. Indeed, the whole of this country abounds in fruits and cultivated trees and evergreens, and even bears the olive. There is also Phauene, a province ofArmenia, andComisene, and Orchistene, which last furnishes the most cavalry. Chorsene and Cambysene are the most northerly and the most subject to snows, bordering on theCaucasian mountains andIberia andColchis. It is said that here, on the passes over the mountains, whole caravans are often swallowed up in the snow when unusually violent snowstorms take place, and that to meet such dangers people carry staves, which they raise to the surface of the snow in order to get air to breathe and to signify their plight to people who come along, so as to obtain assistance, be dug out, and safely escape. It is said that hollow masses of ice form in the snow which contain good water, in a coat of ice as it were; and also that living creatures breed in the snow (Apollonides calls these creatures "scoleces", andTheophanes "thripes"); and that good water is enclosed in these hollow masses which people obtain for drinking by slitting open the coats of ice; and the genesis of these creatures is supposed to be like that of the gnats which spring from the flames and sparks at mines.
§ 11.14.5 According to report,Armenia, though a small country in earlier times, was enlarged byArtaxias andZariadris, who formerly were generals ofAntiochus the Great, but later, after his defeat, reigned as kings (the former as king ofSophene, Acisene,Odomantis, and certain other countries, and the latter as king of the country roundArtaxata), and jointly enlarged their kingdoms by cutting off for themselves parts of the surrounding nations, — I mean by cutting offCaspiane and Phaunitis and Basoropeda from the country of theMedes; and the country along the side of Mt.Paryadres and Chorsene andGogarene, which last is on the far side of theCyrus River, from that of theIberians; and Carenitis and Xerxene, which border on LesserArmenia or else are parts of it, from that of theChalybians and theMosynoeci; andAcilisene and the country round theAntitaurus from that of theCataonians; and Taronitis from that of the Syrians; and therefore they all speak the same language, as we are told.
§ 11.14.6 The cities ofArmenia areArtaxata, also called Artaxiasata, which was founded byHannibal forArtaxias the king, and Arxata, both on theAraxes River, Arxata being near the borders ofAtropatia, whereasArtaxata is near the Araxene plain, being a beautiful settlement and the royal residence of the country. It is situated on a peninsula-like elbow of land and its walls have the river as protection all round them, except at the isthmus, which is enclosed by a trench and a palisade. Not far from the city are the treasuries ofTigranes andArtavasdes, the strong fortresses Babyrsa and Olane. And there were other fortresses on theEuphrates. Of these, Artageras was caused to revolt by Ador, its commandant, butCaesar's generals sacked it after a long siege and destroyed its walls.
§ 11.14.7 There are several rivers in the country, but the best known are thePhasis and theLycus, which empty into thePontic Sea (Eratosthenes wrongly writes "Thermodon" instead of "Lycus"), whereas theCyrus and theAraxes empty into theCaspian Sea, and theEuphrates and theTigris into theRed Sea.
§ 11.14.8 There are also large lakes inArmenia; one the Mantiane, which being translated means "Blue"; it is the largest salt water lake after LakeMaeotis, as they say, extending as far asAtropatia; and it also has salt-works. Another is Arsene, also calledThopitis. It contains soda, and it cleanses and restores clothes; but because of this ingredient the water is also unfit for drinking. TheTigris flows through this lake after issuing from the mountainous country near theNiphates; and because of its swiftness it keeps its current unmixed with the lake; whence the nameTigris, since theMedian word for "arrow" is "tigris." And while the river has fish of many kinds, the fish in the lake are of one kind only. Near the recess of the lake the river falls into a pit, and after flowing underground for a considerable distance rises nearChalonitis. Thence the river begins to flow down towardsOpis and the wall ofSemiramis, as it is called, leaving the Gordiaeans and the whole ofMesopotamia on the right, while theEuphrates, on the contrary, has the same country on the left. Having approached one another and formedMesopotamia, the former flows throughSeleuceia to thePersian Gulf and the latter throughBabylon, as I have already said somewhere in my arguments againstEratosthenes andHipparchus.
§ 11.14.9 There are gold mines inSyspiritis near Caballa, to whichMenon was sent byAlexander with soldiers, and he was led up to them by the natives. There are also other mines, in particular those of sandyx, as it is called, which is also called "Armenian" color, like chalce The country is so very good for "horse-pasturing," not even inferior toMedia, that theNesaeanhorses, which were used by thePersian kings, are also bred there. The satrap ofArmenia used to send to thePersian king twenty thousand foals every year at the time of the Mithracina.Artavasdes, at the time when he invadedMedia withAntony, showed him, apart from the rest of the cavalry, six thousandhorses drawn up in battle array in full armour. Not only theMedes and theArmenians pride themselves upon this kind of cavalry, but also theAlbanians, for they too usehorses in full armour.
§ 11.14.10 As for the wealth and power of the country, the following is no small sign of it, that whenPompey imposed uponTigranes, the father ofArtavasdes, a payment of six thousand talents of silver, he forthwith distributed to the Roman forces as follows: to each soldier fifty drachmas, to each centurion a thousand drachmas, and to each hipparch and chiliarch a talent.
§ 11.14.11 The size of the country is given byTheophanes: the breadth one hundred "schoeni," and the length twice as much, putting the "schoenus at forty stadia; but his estimate is too high; it is nearer the truth to put down as length what he gives as breadth, and as breadth the half, or a little more, of what he gives as breadth. Such, then, is the nature and power ofArmenia.
§ 11.14.12 There is an ancient story of theArmenian race to this effect: thatArmenus ofArmenium, aThessalian city, which lies betweenPherae andLarisa on LakeBoebe, as I have already said, accompaniedJason intoArmenia; andCyrsilus thePharsalian andMedius theLarisaean, who accompaniedAlexander, say thatArmenia was named after him, and that, of the followers ofArmenus, some took up their abode inAcilisene, which in earlier times was subject to theSopheni, whereas others took up their abode inSyspiritis, as far as Calachene andAdiabene, outside theArmenian mountains. They also say that the clothing of theArmenians isThessalian, for example, the long tunics, which in tragedies are calledThessalian and are girded round the breast; and also the cloaks that are fastened on with clasps, another way in which the tragedians imitated theThessalians, for the tragedians had to have some alien decoration of this kind; and since theThessalians in particular wore long robes, probably because they of all the Greeks lived in the most northerly and coldest region, they were the most suitable objects of imitation for actors in their theatrical make-ups. And they say that their style of horsemanship isThessalian, both theirs and alike that of theMedes. To this the expedition ofJason and the Jasonian monuments bear witness, some of which were built by the sovereigns of the country, just as the sanctuary ofJason atAbdera was built byParmenion.
§ 11.14.13 It is thought that theAraxes was given the same name as thePeneius byArmenus and his followers because of its similarity to that river, for that river too, they say, was calledAraxes because of the fact that it "cleft"Ossa fromOlympus, the cleft calledTempe. And it is said that in ancient times theAraxes inArmenia, after descending from the mountains, spread out and formed a sea in the plains below, since it had no outlet, but thatJason, to make it likeTempe, made the cleft through which the water now precipitates itself into theCaspian Sea, and that in consequence of this the Araxene Plain, through which the river flows to its precipitate descent, was relieved of the sea. Now this account of theAraxes contains some plausibility, but that ofHerodotus not at all; for he says that after flowing out of the country of theMatieni it splits into forty rivers and separates theScythians from theBactrians.Callisthenes, also, followsHerodotus.
§ 11.14.14 It is also said of certain of theAenianes that some of them took up their abode in Vitia and others above theArmenians beyond theAbus and the Nibarus. These two mountains are parts of theTaurus, and of these theAbus is near the road that leads intoEcbatana past the sanctuary of Baris. It is also said that certain of theThracians, those called "Saraparae," that is "Decapitators," took up their abode beyondArmenia near theGuranii and theMedes, a fierce and intractable people, mountaineers, scalpers, and beheaders, for this last is the meaning of "Saraparae." I have already discussedMedeia in my account of theMedes; and therefore, from all this, it is supposed that both theMedes and theArmenians are in a way kinsmen to theThessalians and the descendants ofJason andMedeia.
§ 11.14.15 This, then, is the ancient account; but the more recent account, and that which begins withPersian times and extends continuously to our own, might appropriately be stated in brief as follows: ThePersians andMacedonians were in possession ofArmenia; after this, those who heldSyria andMedia; and the last wasOrontes, the descendant ofHydarnes, one of the sevenPersians; and then the country was divided into two parts byArtaxias and Zariadris, the generals ofAntiochus the Great, who made war against the Romans; and these generals ruled the country, since it was turned over to them by the king; but when the king was defeated, they joined the Romans and were ranked as autonomous, with the title of king. NowTigranes was a descendant ofArtaxias and held what is properly calledArmenia, which lay adjacent toMedia andAlbania andIberia, extending as far asColchis andCappadocia on theEuxine, whereas theSophenianArtanes, who held the southern parts and those that lay more to the west than these, was a descendant of Zariadris. But he was overcome byTigranes, who established himself as lord of all. The changes of fortune experienced byTigranes were varied, for at first he was a hostage among theParthians; and then through them he obtained the privilege of returning home, they receiving as reward therefore seventy valleys inArmenia; but when he had grown in power, he not only took these places back but also devastated their country, both that aboutNinus and that aboutArbela; and he subjugated to himself the rulers of Atropene andGordyaea, and along with these the rest ofMesopotamia, and also crossed theEuphrates and by main strength tookSyria itself andPhoenicia; and, exalted to this height, he also founded a city nearIberia, between this place and theZeugma on theEuphrates; and, having gathered peoples thither from twelve Greek cities which he had laid waste, he named itTigranocerta; butLucullus, who had waged war againstMithridates, arrived beforeTigranes finished his undertaking and not only dismissed the inhabitants to their several homelands but also attacked and pulled down the city, which was still only half finished, and left it a small village; and he droveTigranes out of bothSyria andPhoenicia. His successorArtavasdes was indeed prosperous for a time, while he was a friend to the Romans, but when he betrayedAntony to theParthians in his war against them he paid the penalty for it, for he was carried off prisoner toAlexandreia byAntony and was paraded in chains through the city; and for a time he was kept in prison, but was afterwards slain, when theActian war broke out. After him several kings reigned, these being subject toCaesar and the Romans; and still today the country is governed in the same way.
§ 11.14.16 Now the sacred rites of thePersians, one and all, are held in honor by both theMedes and theArmenians; but those ofAnaitis are held in exceptional honor by theArmenians, who have built sanctuaries in her honor in different places, and especially inAcilisene. Here they dedicate to her service male and female slaves. This, indeed, is not a remarkable thing; but the most illustrious men of the tribe actually consecrate to her their daughters while maidens; and it is the custom for these first to be prostituted in the sanctuary of the goddess for a long time and after this to be given in marriage; and no one disdains to live in wedlock with such a woman. Something of this kind is told also byHerodotus in his account of theLydian women, who, one and all, he says, prostitute themselves. And they are so kindly disposed to their paramours that they not only entertain them hospitably but also exchange presents with them, often giving more than they receive, inasmuch as the girls from wealthy homes are supplied with means. However, they do not admit any man that comes along, but preferably those of equal rank with themselves.
§ 12.1.1 Cappadocia, also, is a country of many parts and has undergone numerous changes. However, the inhabitants who speak the same language are, generally speaking, those who are bounded on the south by the "Cilician"Taurus, as it is called, and on the east byArmenia andColchis and by the intervening peoples who speak a different group of languages, and on the north by theEuxine as far as the outlets of theHalys River, and on the west both by the tribe of thePaphlagonians and by those Galatae who settled inPhrygia and extended as far as theLycaonians and thoseCilicians who occupyCilicia Tracheia.
§ 12.1.2 Now as for the tribes themselves which speak the same language, the ancients set one of them, theCataonians, by themselves, contradistinguishing them from theCappadocians, regarding the latter as a different tribe; and in their enumeration of the tribes they placedCataonia afterCappadocia, and then placed theEuphrates and the tribes beyond it so as to include inCataoniaMelitene, which lies betweenCataonia and theEuphrates, borders onCommagene, and, according to the division ofCappadocia into ten prefectures, is a tenth portion of the country. Indeed, it was in this way that the kings in my time who precededArchelaus held their several prefectures overCappadocia. AndCataonia, also, is a tenth portion ofCappadocia. In my time each of the two countries had its own prefect; but since, as compared with the otherCappadocians, there is no difference to be seen either in the language or in any other usages of theCataonians, it is remarkable how utterly all signs of their being a different tribe have disappeared. At any rate, they were once a distinct tribe, but they were annexed byAriarathes, the first man to be called king of theCappadocians.
§ 12.1.3 Cappadocia constitutes the isthmus, as it were, of a large peninsula bounded by two seas, by that of theIssian Gulf as far asCilicia Tracheia and by that of theEuxine as far asSinope and the coast of theTibareni. I mean by "peninsula" all the country which is west ofCappadocia this side the isthmus, which byHerodotus is called "the country this side theHalys River"; for this is the country which in its entirety was ruled byCroesus, whomHerodotus calls the tyrant of the tribes this side theHalys River. However, the writers of today give the name ofAsia to the country this side theTaurus, applying to this country the same name as to the whole continent ofAsia. ThisAsia comprises the first nations on the east, thePaphlagonians andPhrygians andLycaonians, and then theBithynians andMysians and theEpictetus, and, besides these, theTroad and Hellespontia, and after these, on the sea, theAeolians andIonians, who are Greeks, and, among the rest, theCarians andLycians, and, in the interior, theLydians. As for the other tribes, I shall speak of them later.
§ 12.1.4 Cappadocia was divided into two satrapies by thePersians at the time when it was taken over by theMacedonians; theMacedonians willingly allowed one part of the country, but unwillingly the other, to change to kingdoms instead of satrapies; and one of these kingdoms they named "Cappadocia Proper" and "Cappadocia nearTaurus", and even "GreaterCappadocia," and the other they named "Pontus," though others named itCappadociaPontica. As for GreaterCappadocia, we at present do not yet know its administrative divisions, for after the death of kingArchelaus,Caesar and the senate decreed that it was a Roman province. But when, in the reign ofArchelaus and of the kings who preceded him, the country was divided into ten prefectures, those near theTaurus were reckoned as five in number, I meanMelitene,Cataonia,Cilicia,Tyanitis, and Garsauritis; andLaviansene,Sargarausene,Saravene,Chamanene, andMorimene as the remaining five. The Romans later assigned to the predecessors ofArchelaus an eleventh prefecture, taken fromCilicia, I mean the country roundCastabala andCybistra, extending toDerbe, which last had belonged toAntipater thepirate; and toArchelaus they further assigned the part ofCilicia Tracheia roundElaeussa, and also all the country that had organized the business ofpiracy.
§ 12.2.1 Melitene:Melitene is similar toCommagene, for the whole of it is planted with fruit trees, the only country in allCappadocia of which this is true, so that it produces, not only the olive, but also the Monarite wine, which rivals the Greek wines. It is situated opposite toSophene; and theEuphrates River flows between it andCommagene, which latter borders on it. On the far side of the river is a noteworthy fortress belonging to theCappadocians,Tomisa by name. This was sold to the ruler ofSophene for one hundred talents, but later was presented byLucullus as a meed of valor to the ruler ofCappadocia who took the field with him in the war againstMithridates.
§ 12.2.2 Cataonia is a broad hollow plain, and produces everything except evergreen-trees. It is surrounded on its southern side by mountains, among others by theAmanus, which is a branch of theCilicianTaurus, and by theAntitaurus, which branches off in the opposite direction; for theAmanus extends fromCataonia toCilicia and the Syrian Sea towards the west and south, and in this intervening space it surrounds the whole of theGulf of Issos and the intervening plains of theCilicians which lie towards theTaurus. But theAntitaurus inclines to the north and takes a slightly easterly direction, and then terminates in the interior of the country.
§ 12.2.3 In thisAntitaurus are deep and narrow valleys, in which are situatedComana and the sanctuary ofEnyo, whom the people there call "Ma." It is a considerable city; its inhabitants, however, consist mostly of the divinely inspired people and the temple-servants who live in it. Its inhabitants areCataonians, who, though in a general way classed as subject to the king, are in most respects subject to the priest. The priest is master of the sanctuary, and also of the temple-servants, who on my sojourn there were more than six thousand in number, men and women together. Also, considerable territory belongs to the sanctuary, and the revenue is enjoyed by the priest. He is second in rank inCappadocia after the king; and in general the priests belonged to the same family as the kings. It is thought thatOrestes, with his sisterIphigeneia, brought these sacred rites here from theTauricScythia, the rites in honor ofArtemisTauropolus, and that here they also deposited the hair of mourning; whence the city's name. Now theSarus River flows through this city and passes out through the gorges of theTaurus to the plains of theCilicians and to the sea that lies below them.
§ 12.2.4 But thePyramus, a navigable river with its sources in the middle of the plain, flows throughCataonia. There is a notable pit in the earth through which one can see the water as it runs into a long hidden passage underground and then rises to the surface. If one lets down a javelin from above into the pit, the force of the water resists so strongly that the javelin can hardly be immersed in it. But although it flows in great volume because of its immense depth and breadth, yet, when it reaches theTaurus, it undergoes a remarkable contraction; and remarkable also is the cleft of the mountain through which the stream is carried; for, as in the case of rocks which have been broken and split into two parts, the projections on either side correspond so exactly to the cavities on the other that they could be fitted together, so it was in the case of the rocks I saw there, which, lying above the river on either side and reaching up to the summit of the mountain at a distance of two or three plethra from each other, had cavities corresponding with the opposite projections. The whole intervening bed is rock, and it has a cleft through the middle which is deep and so extremely narrow that adog or hare could leap across it. This cleft is the channel of the river, is full to the brim, and in breadth resembles a canal; but on account of the crookedness of its course and its great contraction in width and the depth of the gorge, a noise like thunder strikes the ears of travellers long before they reach it. In passing out through the mountains it brings down so much silt to the sea, partly fromCataonia and partly from theCilician plains, that even an oracle is reported as having been given out in reference to it, as follows: "Men that are yet to be shall experience this at the time when thePyramus of the silver eddies shall silt up its sacred sea-beach and come toCyprus. Indeed, something similar to this takes place also inEgypt, since theNile is always turning the sea into dry land by throwing out silt. Accordingly,Herodotus callsEgypt "the gift of theNile," whileHomer speaks ofPharos as "being out in the open sea," since in earlier times it was not, as now, connected with the mainland ofEgypt.
§ 12.2.5 [text problematic] The third in rank is the priesthood ofZeus Dacieus [or Asbamaios?], which, though inferior to that ofEnyo, is noteworthy. At this place there is a reservoir of salt water which has the circumference of a considerable lake; it is shut in by brows of hills so high and steep that people go down to it by ladder-like steps. The water, they say, neither increases nor anywhere has a visible outflow.
§ 12.2.6 Neither the plain of theCataonians nor the countryMelitene has a city, but they have strongholds on the mountains, I mean Azamora and Dastarcum; and round the latter flows theCarmalas River. It contains also a sanctuary, that of theCataonianApollo, which is held in honor throughout the whole ofCappadocia, theCappadocians having made it the model of sanctuaries of their own. Neither do the other prefectures, except two, contain cities; and of the remaining prefectures,Sargarausene contains a small townHerpa, and also theCarmalas River, this too emptying into theCilician Sea. In the other prefectures are Argos, a lofty stronghold near theTaurus, andNora, now calledNeroassus, in whichEumenes held out against a siege for a long time. In my time it served as the treasury ofSisines, who made an attack upon the empire of theCappadocians. To him belonged alsoCadena, which had the royal palace and had the aspect of a city. Situated on the borders ofLycaonia is also a town calledGarsauira. This too is said once to have been the metropolis of the country. InMorimene, atVenasa, is the sanctuary of the VenasianZeus, which has a settlement of almost three thousand temple-slaves and also a sacred territory that is very productive, affording the priest a yearly revenue of fifteen talents. He, too, is priest for life, as is the Priest atComana, and is second in rank after him.
§ 12.2.7 Only two prefectures have cities,Tyanitis the cityTyana, which lies below theTaurus at theCilician Gates, where for all is the easiest and most commonly used pass intoCilicia andSyria. It is called "Eusebeia near theTaurus"; and its territory is for the most part fertile and level.Tyana is situated upon a mound ofSemiramis, which is beautifully fortified. Not far from this city areCastabala andCybistra, towns still nearer to the mountain. AtCastabala is the sanctuary of the PerasianArtemis, where the priestesses, it is said, walk with naked feet over hot embers without pain. And here, too, some tell us over and over the same story ofOrestes andTauropolus, asserting that she was called "Perasian" because she was brought "from the other side." So then, in the prefectureTyanitis, one of the ten above mentioned isTyana (I am not enumerating along with these prefectures those that were acquired later, I meanCastabala andCybistra and the places inCilicia Tracheia, where isElaeussa, a very fertile island, which was settled in a noteworthy manner byArchelaus, who spent the greater part of his time there), whereasMazaca, the metropolis of the tribe, is in theCilician prefecture, as it is called. This city, too, is called "Eusebeia," with the additional words "near theArgaeus," for it is situated below theArgaeus, the highest mountain of all, whose summit never fails to have snow upon it; and those who ascend it (those are few) say that in clear weather both seas, both thePontus and theIssian Sea, are visible from it. Now in generalMazaca is not naturally a suitable place for the founding of a city, for it is without water and unfortified by nature; and, because of the neglect of the prefects, it is also without walls (perhaps intentionally so, in order that people inhabiting a plain, with hills above it that were advantageous and beyond range of missiles, might not, through too much reliance upon the wall as a fortification, engage in plundering). Further, the districts all round are utterly barren and untilled, although they are level; but they are sandy and are rocky underneath. And, proceeding a little farther on, one comes to plains extending over many stadia that are volcanic and full of fire-pits; and therefore the necessaries of life must be brought from a distance. And further, that which seems to be an advantage is attended with peril, for although almost the whole ofCappadocia is without timber, theArgaeus has forests all round it, and therefore the working of timber is close at hand; but the region which lies below the forests also contains fires in many places and at the same time has an underground supply of cold water, although neither the fire nor the water emerges to the surface; and therefore most of the country is covered with grass. In some places, also, the ground is marshy, and at night flames rise therefrom. Now those who are acquainted with the country can work the timber, since they are on their guard, but the country is perilous for most people, and especially forcattle, since they fall into the hidden fire-pits.
§ 12.2.8 There is also a river in the plain before the city; it is called Melas, is about forty stadia distant from the city, and has its sources in a district that is below the level of the city. For this reason, therefore, it is useless to the inhabitants, since its stream is not in a favorable position higher up, but spreads abroad into marshes and lakes, and in the summertime vitiates the air round the city, and also makes the stone-quarry hard to work, though otherwise easy to work; for there are ledges of flat stones from which theMazaceni obtain an abundant supply of stone for their buildings, but when the slabs are concealed by the waters they are hard to obtain. And these marshes, also, are everywhere volcanic.Ariarathes the king, since the Melas had an outlet into theEuphrates by a certain narrow defile, dammed this and converted the neighboring plain into a sea-like lake, and there, shutting off certain isle — like theCyclades — from the outside world, passed his time there in boyish diversions. But the barrier broke all at once, the water streamed out again, and theEuphrates, thus filled, swept away much of the soil ofCappadocia, and obliterated numerous settlements and plantations, and also damaged no little of the country of theGalatians who heldPhrygia. In return for the damage the inhabitants, who gave over the decision of the matter to the Romans, exacted a fine of three hundred talents. The same was the case also in regard toHerpa; for there too he dammed the stream of theCarmalas River; and then, the mouth having broken open and the water having ruined certain districts inCilicia in the neighborhood ofMallos, he paid damages to those who had been wronged.
§ 12.2.9 However, although the district of theMazaceni is in many respects not naturally suitable for habitation, the kings seem to have preferred it, because of all places in the country this was nearest to the center of the region which contained timber and stone for buildings, and at the same time provender, of which, beingcattle-breeders, they needed a very large quantity, for in a way the city was for them a camp. And as for their security in general, both that of themselves and of their slaves, they got it from the defences in their strongholds, of which there are many, some belonging to the king and others to their friends.Mazaca is distant fromPontus about eight hundred stadia to the south, from theEuphrates slightly less than double that distance, and from theCilician Gates and the camp ofCyrus a journey of six days by way ofTyana.Tyana is situated at the middle of the journey and is three hundred stadia distant fromCybistra. TheMazaceni use the laws ofCharondas, choosing also a Nomodus, who, like the jurisconsults among the Romans, is the expounder of the laws. ButTigranes put the people in bad plight when he overranCappadocia, for he forced them, one and all, to migrate intoMesopotamia; and it was mostly with these that he settledTigranocerta. But later, after the capture ofTigranocerta, those who could returned home.
§ 12.2.10 The size of the country is as follows: In breadth, fromPontus to theTaurus, about one thousand eight hundred stadia, and in length, fromLycaonia andPhrygia to theEuphrates towards the east andArmenia, about three thousand. It is an excellent country, not only in respect to fruits, but particularly in respect to grain and all kinds ofcattle. Although it lies farther south thanPontus, it is colder. Bagadania, though level and farthest south of all (for it lies at the foot of theTaurus), produces hardly any fruit-bearing trees, although it is grazed by wildasses, both it and the greater part of the rest of the country, and particularly that roundGarsauira andLycaonia andMorimene. InCappadocia is produced also the ruddle called "Sinopean", the best in the world, although the Iberian rivals it. It was named "Sinopean" because the merchants were wont to bring it down thence toSinope before the traffic of theEphesians had penetrated as far as the people ofCappadocia. It is said that also slabs of crystal and of onyx stone were found by the miners ofArchelaus near the country of theGalatians. There was a certain place, also, which had white stone that was like ivory in color and yielded pieces of the size of small whetstones; and from these pieces they made handles for their small swords. And there was another place which yielded such large lumps of transparent stone that they were exported. The boundary ofPontus andCappadocia is a mountain tract parallel to theTaurus, which has its beginning at the western extremities of Chammanene, where is situatedDasmenda, a stronghold with sheer ascent, and extends to the eastern extremities ofLaviansene. Both Chammanene andLaviansene are prefectures inCappadocia.
§ 12.2.11 It came to pass, as soon as the Romans, after conqueringAntiochus, began to administer the affairs ofAsia and were forming friendships and alliances both with the tribes and with the kings, that in all other cases they gave this honor to the kings individually, but gave it to the king ofCappadocia and the tribe jointly. And when the royal family died out, the Romans, in accordance with their compact of friendship and alliance with the tribe, conceded to them the right to live under their own laws; but those who came on the embassy not only begged off from the freedom (for they said that they were unable to bear it), but requested that a king be appointed for them. The Romans, amazed that any people should be so tired of freedom, — at any rate, they permitted them to choose by vote from their own number whomever they wished. And they choseAriobarzanes; but in the course of the third generation his family died out; andArchelaus was appointed king, though not related to the people, being appointed byAntony. So much for GreaterCappadocia. As forCilicia Tracheia, which was added to GreaterCappadocia, it is better for me to describe it in my account of the whole ofCilicia.
§ 12.3.1 Pontos As forPontus,Mithridates Eupator established himself as king of it; and he held the country bounded by theHalys River as far as theTibarani andArmenia, and held also, of the country this side theHalys, the region extending toAmastris and to certain parts ofPaphlagonia. And he acquired, not only the seacoast towards the west a far asHeracleia, the native land ofHeracleides the Platonic philosopher, but also, in the opposite direction, the seacoast extending toColchis and lesserArmenia; and this, as we know, he added toPontus. And in fact this country was comprised within these boundaries whenPompey took it over, upon his overthrow ofMithridates. The parts towardsArmenia and those roundColchis he distributed to the potentates who had fought on his side, but the remaining parts he divided into eleven states and added them toBithynia, so that out of both there was formed a single province. And he gave over to the descendants ofPylaemenes the office of king over certain of thePaphlagonians situated in the interior between them, just as he gave over theGalatians to the hereditary tetrarchs. But later the Roman prefects made different divisions from time to time, not only establishing kings and potentates, but also, in the case of cities, liberating some and putting others in the hands of potentates and leaving others subject to the Roman people. As I proceed I must speak of things in detail as they now are, but I shall touch slightly upon things as they were in earlier times whenever this is useful. I shall begin atHeracleia, which is the most westerly place in this region.
§ 12.3.2 Now as one sails into theEuxine Sea from thePropontis, one has on his left the parts which adjoinByzantium (these belong to theThracians, and are called "the Left-hand Parts" of thePontus), and on his right the parts which adjoinChalcedon. The first of these latter belong to theBithynians, the next to theMariandyni (by some also calledCaucones), the next to thePaphlygonians as far as theHalys River, and the next to thePonticCappadocians and to the people next in order after them as far asColchis. All these are called the Right-hand Parts of thePontus. NowEupator reigned over the whole of this seacoast, beginning atColchis and extending as far asHeracleia, but the parts farther on, extending as far as the mouth of thePontus andChalcedon, remained under the rule of the king ofBithynia. But when the kings had been overthrown, the Romans preserved the same boundaries, so thatHeracleia was added toPontus and the parts farther on went to theBithynians.
§ 12.3.3 Now as for theBithynians, it is agreed by most writers that, though formerlyMysians, they received this new name from theThracians — the ThracianBithynians andThynians — who settled the country in question, and they put down as evidences of the tribe of theBithynians that inThrace certain people are to this day calledBithynians, and of that of theThynian, that the coast nearApollonia andSalmydessus is calledThynias. And theBebryces, who took up their abode inMysia before these people, were alsoThracians, as I suppose. It is stated that even theMysians themselves are colonists of thoseThracians who are now calledMoesians. Such is the account given of these people.
§ 12.3.4 But all do not give the same account of theMariandyni and theCaucones; forHeracleia, they say, is situated in the country of theMariandyni, and was founded by theMilesians; but nothing has been said as to who they are or whence they came, nor yet do the people appear characterized by any ethnic difference, either in dialect or otherwise, although they are similar to theBithynians. Accordingly, it is reasonable to suppose that this tribe also was at first Thracian.Theopompus says thatMariandynus ruled over a part ofPaphlagonia, which was under the rule of many potentates, and then invaded and took possession of the country of theBebryces, but left the country which he had abandoned named after himself. This, too, has been said, that theMilesians who were first to foundHeracleia forced theMariandyni, who held the place before them, to serve asHelots, so that they sold them, but not beyond the boundaries of their country (for the two peoples came to an agreement on this), just as the Mnoan class, as it is called, were serfs of theCretans and thePenestae of theThessalians.
§ 12.3.5 As for the Cauconians, who, according to report, took up their abode on the seacoast next to theMariandyni and extended as far as theParthenius River, withTieium as their city, some say that they wereScythians, others that they were a certain people of theMacedonians, and others that they were a certain people of thePelasgians. But I have already spoken of these people in another place.Callisthenes in his treatise on The Marshalling of the Ships was for inserting after the words "Cromna,Aigialus, and loftyErythini" the words "the Cauconians were led by the noble son ofPolycles — they who lived in glorious dwellings in the neighborhood of theParthenius River," for, he adds, theCauconians extended fromHeracleia and theMariandyni to the white Syrians, whom we callCappadocians, and the tribe of theCauconians roundTieium extended to theParthenius River, whereas that of theHeneti, who heldCytorum, were situated next to them after theParthenius River, and still today certain "Cauconitae" live in the neighborhood of theParthenius River.
§ 12.3.6 NowHeracleia is a city that has good harbors and is otherwise worthy of note, since, among other things, it has also sent forth colonies; for bothChersonesus andCallatis are colonies from it. It was at first an autonomous city, and then for some time was ruled by tyrants, and then recovered its freedom, but later was ruled by kings, when it became subject to the Romans. The people received a colony of Romans, sharing with them a part of their city and territory. ButAdiatorix, the son of Domnecleius, tetrarch of theGalatians, received fromAntony that part of the city which was occupied by theHeracleiotae; and a little before the Battle ofActium he attacked the Romans by night and slaughtered them, by permission ofAntony, as he alleged. But after the victory atActium he was led in triumph and slain together with his son. The city belongs to thePontic Province which was united withBithynia.
§ 12.3.7 BetweenChalcedon andHeracleia flow several rivers, among which are thePsillis and the Calpas and theSangarius, which last is mentioned by the poet. TheSangarius has its sources near the village Sangia, about one hundred and fifty stadia fromPessinus. It flows through the greater part ofPhrygia Epictetus, and also through a part ofBithynia, so that it is distant fromNicomedeia a little more than three hundred stadia, reckoning from the place where it is joined by theGallus River, which has its beginnings at Modra inPhrygia on theHellespont. This is the same country asPhrygia Epictetus, and it was formerly occupied by theBithynians. Thus increased, and now having become navigable, though of old not navigable, the river forms a boundary ofBithynia at its outlets. Off this coast lies also the islandThynia. The plant called aconite grows in the territory ofHeracleia. This city is about one thousand five hundred stadia from theChalcedonian sanctuary and five hundred from theSangarius River.
§ 12.3.8 Tieium is a town that has nothing worthy of mention except thatPhiletaerus, the founder of the family ofAttalic Kings, was from there. Then comes theParthenius River, which flows through flowery districts and on this account came by its name; it has its sources inPaphlagonia itself. And then comesPaphlagonia and theEneti. Writers question whom the poet means by "theEneti," when he says, "And the rugged heart ofPylaemenes led thePaphlagonians, from the land of theEneti, whence the breed of wild mules; for at the present time, they say, there are noEneti to be seen inPaphlagonia, though some say that there is a village on theAigialus ten schoeni distant fromAmastris. ButZenodotus writes "fromEnete," and says thatHomer clearly indicates theAmisus of today. And others say that a tribe calledEneti, bordering on theCappadocians, made an expedition with theCimmerians and then were driven out to theAdriatic Sea. But the thing upon which there is general agreement is, that theEneti, to whomPylaemenes belonged, were the most notable tribe of thePaphlagonians, and that, furthermore, these made the expedition with him in very great numbers, but, losing their leader, crossed over toThrace after the capture ofTroy, and on their wanderings went to theEnetian country, as it is now called. According to some writers,Antenor and his children took part in this expedition and settled at the recess of theAdriatic, as mentioned by me in my account ofItaly. It is therefore reasonable to suppose that it was on this account that theEneti disappeared and are not to be seen inPaphlagonia.
§ 12.3.9 As for thePaphlagonians, they are bounded on the east by theHalys River, which, according toHerodotus, "flows from the south between the Syrians and thePaphlagonians and empties into theEuxine Sea, as it is called;" by "Syrians," however, he means the "Cappadocians," and in fact they are still today called "White Syrians," while those outside theTaurus are called "Syrians." As compared with those this side theTaurus, those outside have a tanned complexion, while those this side do not, and for this reason received the appellation "white." AndPindar says that theAmazons swayed a 'Syrian' army that reached afar with their spears, thus clearly indicating that their abode was inThemiscyra.Themiscyra is in the territory of theAmiseni; and this territory belongs to theWhite Syrians, who live in the country next after theHalys River. On the east, then, thePaphlagonians are bounded by theHalys River; on the south byPhrygians and theGalatians who settled among them; on the west by theBithynians and theMariandyni (for the race of theCauconians has everywhere been destroyed), and on the north by theEuxine. Now this country was divided into two parts, the interior and the part on the sea, each stretching from theHalys River toBithynia; andEupator not only held the coast as far asHeracleia, but also took the nearest part of the interior, certain portions of which extended across theHalys (and the boundary of thePontic Province has been marked off by the Romans as far as this). The remaining parts of the interior, however, were subject to potentates, even after the overthrow ofMithridates. Now as for thePaphlagonians in the interior, I mean those not subject toMithridates, I shall discuss them later, but at present I propose to describe the country which was subject to him, called thePontus.
§ 12.3.10 After theParthenius River, then, one comes toAmastris, a city bearing the same name as the woman who founded it. It is situated on a peninsula and has harbors on either side of the isthmus.Amastris was the wife ofDionysius the tyrant ofHeracleia and the daughter ofOxyathres, the brother of theDareius whomAlexander fought. Now she formed the city out of four settlements,Sesamos andCytorum andCromna (whichHomer mentions in his marshalling of thePaphlagonian ships) and, fourth,Tieium. This part, however, soon revolted from the united city, but the other three remained together; and, of these three,Sesamos is called the acropolis ofAmastris.Cytorum was once the emporium of theSinopeans; it was named afterCytorus, the son ofPhryxus, asEphorus says. The most and the best box-wood grows in the territory ofAmastris, and particularly roundCytorum. TheAigialus is a long shore of more than a hundred stadia, and it has also a village bearing the same name, which the poet mentions when he says,Cromna andAigialus and the loftyErythini, though some write,Cromna and Cobialus." They say that theErythrini of today, from their color, used to be calledErythini; they are two lofty rocks. AfterAigialus one comes toCarambis, a great cape extending towards the north and theScythianChersonese. I have often mentioned it, as alsoCriumetopon which lies opposite it, by which theEuxinePontus is divided into two seas. AfterCarambis one comes toCinolis, and to Anticinolis, and toAbonuteichus, a small town, and toArmene, to which pertains the proverb, "whoever had no work to do walledArmene." It is a village of theSinopeans and has a harbor.
§ 12.3.11 Then one comes toSinope itself, which is fifty stadia distant fromArmene; it is the most noteworthy of the cities in that part of the world. This city was founded by theMilesians; and, having built a naval station, it reigned over the sea inside theCyaneae, and shared with the Greeks in many struggles even outside theCyaneae; and, although it was independent for a long time, it could not eventually preserve its freedom, but was captured by siege, and was first enslaved byPharnaces and afterwards by his successors down toEupator and to the Romans who overthrewEupator.Eupator was both born and reared atSinope; and he accorded it especial honor and treated it as the metropolis of his kingdom.Sinope is beautifully equipped both by nature and by human foresight, for it is situated on the neck of a peninsula, and has on either side of the isthmus harbors and roadsteads and wonderful pelamydes-fisheries, of which I have already made mention, saying that theSinopeans get the second catch and theByzantians the third. Furthermore, the peninsula is protected all round by ridgy shores, which have hollowed-out places in them, rock-cavities, as it were, which the people call "choenicides"; these are filled with water when the sea rises, and therefore the place is hard to approach, not only because of this, but also because the whole surface of the rock is prickly and impassable for bare feet. Higher up, however, and above the city, the ground is fertile and adorned with diversified market-gardens; and especially the suburbs of the city. The city itself is beautifully walled, and is also splendidly adorned with gymnasium and marked place and colonnades. But although it was such a city, still it was twice captured, first byPharnaces, who unexpectedly attacked it all of a sudden, and later byLucullus and by the tyrant who was garrisoned within it, being besieged both inside and outside at the same time; for, sinceBacchides, who had been set up by the king as commander of the garrison, was always suspecting treason from the people inside, and was causing many outrages and murders, he made the people, who were unable either nobly to defend themselves or to submit by compromise, lose all heart for either course. At any rate, the city was captured; and thoughLucullus kept intact the rest of the city's adornments, he took away the globe of Billarus and a work ofSthenis, the statue ofAutolycus, whom they regarded as founder of their city and honored as god. The city had also an oracle ofAutolycus. He is thought to have been one of those who went on the voyage withJason and to have taken possession of this place. Then later theMilesians, seeing the natural advantages of the place and the weakness of its inhabitants, appropriated it to themselves and sent forth colonists to it. But at present it has received also a colony of Romans; and a part of the city and the territory belong to these. It is three thousand five hundred stadia distant from theHieron, two thousand fromHeracleia, and seven hundred fromCarambis. It has produced excellent men: among the philosophers,Diogenes theCynic andTimotheus Patrion; among the poets,Diphilus the comic poet; and, among the historians,Baton, who wrote the work entitled ThePersica.
§ 12.3.12 Thence, next, one comes to the outlet of theHalys River. It was named from the "halae," past which it flows. It has its sources in GreaterCappadocia in Camisene near thePontic country; and, flowing in great volume towards the west, and then turning towards the north throughGalatia andPaphlagonia, it forms the boundary between these two countries and the country of theWhite Syrians. BothSinopitis and all the mountainous country extending as far asBithynia and lying above the aforesaid seaboard have shipbuilding timber that is excellent and easy to transport.Sinopitis produces also the maple and the mountain-nut, the trees from which they cut the wood used for tables. And the whole of the tilled country situated a little above the sea is planted with olive trees.
§ 12.3.13 After the outlet of theHalys comesGazelonitis, which extends to Saramene; it is a fertile country and is everywhere level and productive of everything. It has also asheep-industry, that of raising flocks clothed in skins and yielding soft wool, of which there is a very great scarcity throughout the whole ofCappadocia andPontus. The country also produces gazelles, of which there is a scarcity elsewhere. One part of this country is occupied by theAmiseni, but the other was given toDeiotarus byPompey, as also the regions ofPharnacia andTrapezusia as far asColchis and LesserArmenia.Pompey appointed him king of all these, when he was already in possession of his ancestralGalatian tetrarchy, the country of theTolistobogii. But since his death there have been many successors to his territories.
§ 12.3.14 After Gazelon one comes to Saramene, and to a notable city,Amisus, which is about nine hundred stadia fromSinope.Theopompus says that it was first founded by theMilesians, . . . by a leader of theCappadocians, and thirdly was colonized byAthenocles andAthenians and changed its name to Peiraeus. The kings also took possession of this city; andEupator adorned it with sanctuaries and founded an addition to it. This city too was besieged byLucullus, and then byPharnaces, when he crossed over from theBosporus. After it had been set free by the deifiedCaesar, it was given over to kings byAntony. ThenStraton the tyrant put it in bad plight. And then, after the battle ofActium, it was again set free byAugustus Caesar; and at the present time it is well organized. Besides the rest of its beautiful country, it possesses alsoThemiscyra, the abode of theAmazons, andSidene.
§ 12.3.15 Themiscyra is a plain; on one side it is washed by the sea and is about sixty stadia distant from the city, and on the other side it lies at the foot of the mountainous country, which is well wooded and coursed by streams that have their sources therein. So one river, called theThermodon, being supplied by all these streams, flows out through the plain; and another river similar to this, which flows out ofPhanaroea, as it is called, flows out through the same plain, and is called theIris. It has its sources inPontus itself, and, after flowing through the middle of the cityComana inPontus and through Dazimonitis, a fertile plain, towards the west, then turns towards the north pastGaziura itself an ancient royal residence, though now deserted, and then bends back again towards the east, after receiving the waters of the Scylax and other rivers, and after flowing past the very wall ofAmaseia, my fatherland, a very strongly fortified city, flows on intoPhanaroea. Here theLycus River, which has its beginnings inArmenia, joins it, and itself also becomes theIris. Then the stream is received byThemiscyra and by thePontic Sea. On this account the plain in question is always moist and covered with grass and can support herds ofcattle andhorses alike and admits of the sowing of millet-seeds and sorghum-seeds in very great, or rather unlimited, quantities. Indeed, their plenty of water offsets any drought, so that no famine comes down on these people, never once; and the country along the mountain yields so much fruit, self-grown and wild, I mean grapes and pears and apples and nuts, that those who go out to the forest at any time in the year get an abundant supply — the fruits at one time still hanging on the trees and at another lying on the fallen leaves or beneath them, which are shed deep and in great quantities. And numerous, also, are the catches of all kinds of wild animals, because of the good yield of food.
§ 12.3.16 AfterThemiscyra one comes toSidene, which is a fertile plain, though it is not well-watered likeThemiscyra. It has strongholds on the seaboard:Side, after whichSidene was named, and Chabaca and Phabda. Now the territory ofAmisus extends to this point; and the city has produced men note-worthy for their learning,Demetrius, the son of Rhathenus, andDionysodorus, the mathematicians, the latter bearing the same name as theMelian geometer, andTyrranion the grammarian, of whom I was a pupil.
§ 12.3.17 AfterSidene one comes toPharnacia, a fortified town; and afterwards toTrapezus, a Greek city, to which the voyage fromAmisus is about two thousand two hundred stadia. Then from here the voyage toPhasis is approximately one thousand four hundred stadia, so that the distance fromHieron toPhasis is, all told, about eight thousand stadia, or slightly more or less. As one sails along this seaboard fromAmisus, one comes first to theHeracleian Cape, and then to another cape calledIasonium, and toGenetes, and then to a town calledKotyora, from the inhabitants of whichPharnacia was settled, and then toIschopolis, now in ruins, and then to a gulf, on which are bothCerasus andHermonassa, moderate-sized settlements, and then, nearHermonassa, toTrapezus, and then toColchis. Somewhere in this neighborhood is also a settlement called Zygopolis. Now I have already describedColchis and the coast which lies above it.
§ 12.3.18 AboveTrapezus andPharnacia are situated theTibarani andChaldaei andSanni, in earlier times calledMacrones, and LesserArmenia; and theAppaitae, in earlier times called theCercitae, are fairly close to these regions. Two mountains cross the country of these people, not only theScydises, a very rugged mountain, which joins theMoschian Mountains aboveColchis (its heights are occupied by theHeptacomitae), but also theParyadres, which extends from the region ofSidene andThemiscyra to LesserArmenia and forms the eastern side ofPontus. Now all these peoples who live in the mountains are utterly savage, but theHeptacomitae are worse than the rest. Some also live in trees or turrets; and it was on this account that the ancients called them "Mosynoeci," the turrets being called "mosyni." They live on the flesh of wild animals and on nuts; and they also attack wayfarers, leaping down upon them from their scaffolds. TheHeptacomitae cut down three maniples ofPompey's army when they were passing through the mountainous country; for they mixed bowls of the crazing honey which is yielded by the tree-twigs, and placed them in the roads, and then, when the soldiers drank the mixture and lost their senses, they attacked them and easily disposed of them. Some of these barbarians were also calledByzeres.
§ 12.3.19 TheChaldaei of today were in ancient times namedChalybes; and it is just opposite their territory thatPharnacia is situated, which, on the sea, has the natural advantages of pelamydes-fishing (for it is here that this fish is first caught) and, on the land, has the mines, only iron-mines at the present time, though in earlier times it also had silver-mines. Upon the whole, the seaboard in this region is extremely narrow, for the mountains, full of mines and forests, are situated directly above it, and not much of it is tilled. But there remains for the miners their livelihood from the mines, and for those who busy themselves on the sea their livelihood from their fishing, and especially from their catches of pelamydes anddolphins; for thedolphins pursue the schools of fish — the cordyle and thetunny-fish and the pelamydes themselves; and they not only grow fat on them, but also become easy to catch because they are rather eager to approach the land. These are the only people who cut up thedolphins, which are caught with bait, and use their abundance of fat for all purposes.
§ 12.3.20 So it is these people, I think, that the poet callsHalizoni, mentioning them next the afterPaphlagonians in hisCatalogue."But theHalizones were led byOdius andEpistrophus, from Alybe far away, where is the birth-place of silver, since the text has been changed from "Chalybe far away" or else the people were in earlier times called "Alybes" instead of "Chalybes"; for at the present time it proves impossible that they should have been called "Chaldaei," deriving their name from "Chalybe," if in earlier times they could not have been called "Chalybes" instead of "Alybes," and that too when names undergo many changes, particularly among the barbarians; for instance, certain of theThracians were calledSinties, thenSinti and thenSaii, in whose countryArchilochus says he flung away his shield: "One of theSaii robbed me of my shield, which, a blameless weapon, I left behind me beside a bush, against my will. These same people are now named Sapaei; for all these have their abode roundAbdera and the islands roundLemnos. Likewise theBrygi and Bryges andPhryges are the same people; and theMysi andMaeones and Meiones are the same; but there is no use of enlarging on the subject. TheScepsian doubts the alteration of the name from "Alybes" to "Chalybes"; and, failing to note what follows and what accords with it, and especially why the poet calls theChalybiansHalizoni, he rejects this opinion. As for me, let me place his assumption and those of the other critics side by side with my own and consider them.
§ 12.3.21 Some change the text and make it read "Alazones," others "Amazones," and for the words "from Alybe" they read "fromAlope," or "fromAlobe," calling theScythians beyond theBorysthenes River "Alazones," and also "Callipidae" and other names — names whichHellanicus andHerodotus andEudoxus have foisted on us — and placing theAmazons betweenMysia andCaria andLydia nearCyme, which is the opinion also ofEphorus, who was a native ofCyme. And this opinion might perhaps not be unreasonable, for he may mean the country which was later settled by theAeolians and theIonians, but earlier by theAmazons. And there are certain cities, it is said, which got their names from theAmazons, I meanEphesus,Smyrna,Cyme, andMyrina. But how could Alybe, or, as some call it, "Alope" or "Alobe," be found in this region, and how about "far away," and how about "the birthplace of silver"?
§ 12.3.22 These objectionsEphorus solves by his change of the text, for he writes thus: "But theHalizones were led byOdius andEpistrophus, fromAlope far away, where is the race ofAmazons. But in solving these objections he has fallen into another fiction; forAlope is nowhere to be found in this region; and, further, his change of the text, with innovations so contrary to the evidence of the early manuscripts, looks like rashness. But theScepsian apparently accepts neither the opinion ofEphorus nor of those who suppose them to be theHalizoni nearPallene, whom I have mentioned in my description ofMacedonia. He is also at loss to understand how anyone could think that an allied force came to help theTrojans from the nomads beyond theBorysthenes River; and he especially approves of the opinions ofHecataeus ofMiletus, and ofMenecrates ofElaea, one of the disciples ofXenocrates, and also of that ofPalaephatus. The first of these says in his Circuit of the Earth: "Near the cityAlazia is the River Odrysses, which flows out of LakeDascylitis from the west through the plain of Mygdonia and empties into theRhyndacus." But he goes on to say thatAlazia is now deserted, and that many villages of theAlazones, through whose country the Odrysses flows, are inhabited, and that in these villagesApollo is accorded exceptional honor, and particularly on the confines of theCyziceni.Menecrates in his work entitled The Circuit of theHellespont says that above the region ofMyrleia there is an adjacent mountainous tract which is occupied by the tribe of theHalizones. One should spell the name with two l's, he says, but on account of the metre the poet spells it with only one. ButPalaephatus says that it was from theAmazons who then lived inAlope, but now inZeleia, thatOdius andEpistrophus made their expedition. How, then, can the opinions of these men deserve approval? For, apart from the fact that these men also disturb the early text, they neither show us the silver-mines, nor where in the territory ofMyrleiaAlope is, nor how those who went from there toIlium were "from far away," even if one should grant that there actually was anAlope orAlazia; for these, of course, are much nearer theTroad than the places roundEphesus. But still those who speak of theAmazons as living in the neighborhood ofPygela betweenEphesus andMagnesia andPriene talk nonsense,Demetrius says, for, he adds, "far away" cannot apply to that region. How much more inapplicable, then, is it to the region ofMysia andTeuthrania?
§ 12.3.23 Yes, byZeus, but he goes on to say that some things are arbitrarily inserted in the text, for example, "fromAscania far away," and "Arnaeus was his name, for his revered mother had given him this name at his birth," and "Penelope took the bent key in her strong hand." Now let this be granted, but those other things are not to be granted to whichDemetrius assents without even making a plausible reply to those who have assumed that we ought to read "fromChalybe far away"; for although he concedes that, even if the silver-mines are not now in the country of theChalybians, they could have been there in earlier times, he does not concede that other point, that they were both famous and worthy of note, like the iron-mines. But, one might ask, what is there to prevent them from being famous like the iron-mines? Or can an abundance of iron make a place famous but an abundance of silver not do so? And if the silver-mines had reached fame, not in the time of the heroes, but in the time ofHomer, could any person find fault with the assertion of the poet? How, pray, could their fame have reached the poet? How, pray, could the fame of the copper-mine atTemesa inItaly have reached him? How the fame of the wealth ofThebes inEgypt, although he was about twice as far fromThebes as from theChaldaeans? ButDemetrius is not even in agreement with those for whose opinions he pleads; for in fixing the sites roundScepsis, his birth-place, he speaks ofNea, a village, and ofArgyria and Alazonia as nearScepsis and theAesepus River. These places, then, if they really exist, would be near the sources of theAesepus; butHecataeus speaks of them as beyond the outlets of it; andPalaephatus, although he says that they formerly lived inAlope, but now inZeleia, says nothing like what these men say. But ifMenecrates does so, not even he tells us what kind of a Place "Alope" is or "Alobe," or however they wish to write the name, and neither doesDemetrius himself.
§ 12.3.24 As regardsApollodorus, who discusses the same subject in his Marshalling of theTrojan Forces, I have already said much in answer to him, but I must now speak again; for he does not think that we should take theHalizoni as living outside theHalys River; for, he says, no allied force came to theTrojans from beyond theHalys. First, therefore, we shall ask of him who are theHalizoni this side theHalys and "from Alybe far away, where is the birthplace of silver." For he will be unable to tell us. And we shall next ask him the reason why he does not concede that an allied force came also from the country on the far side of the river; for, if it is the case that all the rest of the allied forces except theThracians lived this side the river, there was nothing to prevent this one allied force from coming from the far side of theHalys, from the country beyond theWhite Syrians. Or was it possible for peoples who fought theTrojans to cross over from these regions and from the regions beyond, as they say theAmazons andTreres andCimmerians did, and yet impossible for people who fought as allies with them to do so? Now theAmazons would not fight onPriam's side because of the fact that he had fought against them as an ally of thePhrygians, against the"Amazons, peers of men, who came at that time, asPriam says, "for I too, being their ally, was numbered among them; but since the peoples whose countries bordered on that of theAmazons were not even far enough away to make difficult theTrojan summons for help from their countries, and since, too, there was no underlying cause for hatred, there was nothing to prevent them, I think, from being allies of theTrojans.
§ 12.3.25 Neither canApollodorus impute such an opinion to the early writers, as though they, one and all, voiced the opinion that no peoples from the far side of theHalys River took part in theTrojan War. One might rather find evidence to the contrary; at any rate,Maeandrius says that theEneti first set forth from the country of theWhite Syrians and allied themselves with theTrojans, and that they sailed away fromTroy with theThracians and took up their abode round the recess of theAdrias, but that theEneti who did not have a part in the expedition had becomeCappadocians. The following might seem to agree with this account, I mean the fact that the whole of that part ofCappadocia near theHalys River which extends alongPaphlagonia uses two languages which abound inPaphlagonian names, as "Bagas," "Biasas," "Aeniates," "Rhatotes," "Zardoces," "Tibius," "Gasys," "Oligasys," and "Manes," for these names are prevalent in Bamonitis, Pimolitis,Gazelonitis,Gazacene and most of the other districts.Apollodorus himself quotes the Homeric verse as written byZenodotus, stating that he writes it as follows: "fromEnete, whence the breed of the wild mules;" and he says thatHecataeus takesEnete to beAmisus. But, as I have already stated,Amisus belongs to theWhite Syrians and is outside theHalys River.
§ 12.3.26 Apollodorus somewhere states, also, that the poet got an account of thosePaphlagonians who lived in the interior from men who had passed through the country on foot, but that he was ignorant of thePaphlagonian coast, just as he was ignorant of the rest of thePontic coast; for otherwise he would have named them. On the contrary, one can retort and say, on the basis of the description which I have now given, thatHomer traverses the whole of the coast and omits nothing of the things that were then worth recording, and that it is not at all remarkable if he does not mentionHeracleia andAmastris andSinope, cities which had not yet been founded, and that it is not at all strange if he has mentioned no part of the interior. And further, the fact thatHomer does not name many of the known places is no sign of ignorance, as I have already demonstrated in the foregoing part of my work; for he says thatHomer was ignorant of many of the famous things round thePontus, for example, rivers and tribes, for otherwise, he says,Homer would have named them. This one might grant in the case of certain very significant things, for example, theScythians and LakeMaeotis and theIster River, for otherwiseHomer would not have described the nomads by significant characteristics as "Galactophagi" and "Abii" and as "men most just," and also as "proudHippemolgi," and yet fail to call theScythians eitherSauromatae orSarmatae, if indeed they were so named by the Greeks, nor yet, when he mentions theThracians andMysians, pass by theIster River in silence, greatest of the rivers, and especially when he is inclined to mark the boundaries of places by rivers, nor yet, when he mentions theCimmerians, omit any mention of theBosporus or LakeMaeotis.
§ 12.3.27 But in the case of things not so significant, either not at that time or for the purposes of his work, how could anyone find fault withHomer for omitting them? For example, for omitting theTanais River, which is well known for no other reason than that it is the boundary betweenAsia and Europe. But the people of that time were not yet using either the name "Asia" or "Europe," nor yet had the inhabited world been divided into three continents as now, for otherwise he would have named them somewhere because of their very great significance, just as he mentionsLibya and also theLips, the wind that blows from the western parts ofLibya. But since the continents had not yet been distinguished, there was no need of mentioning theTanais either. Many things were indeed worthy of mention, but they did not occur to him; for of course adventitiousness is much in evidence both in one's discourse and in one's actions. From all these facts it is clear that every man who judges from the poet's failure to mention anything that he is ignorant of that thing uses faulty evidence. And it is necessary to set forth several examples to prove that it is faulty, for many use such evidence to a great extent. We must therefore rebuke them when they bring forward such evidences, even though in so doing I shall be repeating previous argument. For example, in the case of rivers, if anyone should say that the poet is ignorant of some river because he does not name it, I shall say that his argument is silly, because the poet does not even name theMeles River, which flows pastSmyrna, the city which by most writers is called his birth-place, although he names theHermus andHyllus Rivers; neither does he name thePactolus River, which flows into the same channel as these two rivers and rises inTmolus, a mountain which he mentions; neither does he mentionSmyrna itself, nor the rest of theIonian cities; nor the most of theAeolian cities, though he mentionsMiletus andSamos andLesbos andTenedos; nor yet theLethaeus River, which flows pastMagnesia, nor theMarsyas River, which rivers empty into theMaeander, which last he mentions by name, as also theRhesus andHeptaporus andCaresus andRhodius, and the rest, most of which are no more than small streams. And when he names both many countries and cities, he sometimes names with them the rivers and mountains, but sometimes he does not. At any rate, he does not mention the rivers inAitolia orAttica, nor in several other countries. Besides, if he mentions rivers far away and yet does not mention those that are very near, it is surely not because he was ignorant of them, since they were known to all others. Nor yet, surely, was he ignorant of peoples that were equally near, some of which he names and some not; for example he names theLycians and theSolymi, but not theMilyae; nor yet thePamphylians orPisidians; and though he names thePaphlagonians,Phrygians, andMysians, he does not name theMariandyni; and he mentions theAmazons, but not theWhite Syrians, orCappadocians, orLycaonians, though he repeatedly mentions thePhoenicians and theEgyptians and theEthiopians. And although he mentions theAleian Plain and theArimi, he is silent as to the tribe to which both belong. Such a test of the poet, therefore, is false; but the test is true only when it is shown that some false statement is made by him. ButApollodorus has not been proved correct in this case either, I mean when he was bold enough to say that the "proudHippemolgi" and "Galactophagi" were fabrications of the poet. So much forApollodorus. I now return to the part of my description that comes next in order.
§ 12.3.28 Above the region ofPharnacia andTrapezus are theTibareni and theChaldaei, whose country extends to LesserArmenia. This country is fairly fertile. LesserArmenia, likeSophene, was always in the possession of potentates, who at times were friendly to the otherArmenians and at times minded their own affairs. They held as subjects theChaldaei and theTibareni, and therefore their empire extended toTrapezus andPharnacia. But whenMithridates Eupator had increased in power, he established himself as master, not only ofColchis, but also of all these places, these having been ceded to him byAntipater, the son of Sisis. And he cared so much for these places that he built seventy-five strongholds in them and therein deposited most of his treasures. The most notable of these strongholds were these: Hydara and Basgoedariza and Sinoria; Sinoria was close to the borders of GreaterArmenia, and this is whyTheophanes changed its spelling to Synoria. For as a whole the mountainous range of theParyadres has numerous suitable places for such strongholds, since it is well-watered and woody, and is in many places marked by sheer ravines and cliffs; at any rate, it was here that most of his fortified treasuries were built; and at last, in fact,Mithridates fled for refuge into these farthermost parts of the kingdom ofPontus, whenPompey invaded the country, and having seized a well-watered mountain near Dasteira inAcilisene (near by, also, was theEuphrates, which separatesAcilisene from LesserArmenia), he stayed there until he was besieged and forced to flee across the mountains intoColchis and from there to theBosporus. Near this place, in LesserArmenia,Pompey built a city,Nicopolis, which endures even to this day and is well peopled.
§ 12.3.29 Now as for LesserArmenia, it was ruled by different persons at different times, according to the will of the Romans, and finally byArchelaus. But theTibareni andChaldaei, extending as far asColchis, andPharnacia andTrapezus are ruled byPythodoris, a woman who is wise and qualified to preside over affairs of state. She is the daughter ofPythodorus ofTralles. She became the wife ofPolemon and reigned along with him for a time, and then, when he died in the country of theAspurgiani, as they are called, one of the barbarian tribes roundSindice, she succeeded to the rulership. She had two sons and a daughter byPolemon. Her daughter was married toCotys theSapaean, but he was treacherously slain, and she lived in widowhood, because she had children by him; and the eldest of these is now in power. As for the sons ofPythodoris, one of them as a private citizen is assisting his mother in the administration of her empire, whereas the other has recently been established as king of GreaterArmenia. She herself marriedArchelaus and remained with him to the end; but she is living in widowhood now, and is in possession not only of the places above mentioned, but also of others still more charming, which I shall describe next.
§ 12.3.30 Sidene andThemiscyra are contiguous toPharnacia. And above these liesPhanaroea, which has the best portion ofPontus, for it is planted with olive trees, abounds in wine, and has all the other goodly attributes a country can have. On its eastern side it is protected by theParyadres Mountain, in its length lying parallel to that mountain; and on its western side by the Lithrus and Ophlimus Mountains. It forms a valley of considerable breadth as well as length; and it is traversed by theLycus River, which flows fromArmenia, and by theIris, which flows from the narrow passes nearAmaseia. The two rivers meet at about the middle of the valley; and at their junction is situated a city which the first man who subjugated it calledEupatoria after his own name, butPompey found it only half-finished and added to it territory and settlers, and called itMagnopolis. Now this city is situated in the middle of the plain, butCabeira is situated close to the very foothills of theParyadres Mountains about one hundred and fifty stadia farther south thanMagnopolis, the same distance thatAmaseia is farther west thanMagnopolis. It was atCabeira that the palace ofMithridates was built, and also the water-mill; and here were the zoological gardens, and, near by, the hunting grounds, and the mines.
§ 12.3.31 Here, also, isKainon Chorion, as it is called, a rock that is sheer and fortified by nature, being less than two hundred stadia distant fromCabeira. It has on its summit a spring that sends forth much water, and at its foot a river and a deep ravine. The height of the rock above the neck is immense, so that it is impregnable; and it is enclosed by remarkable walls, except the part where they have been pulled down by the Romans. And the whole country around is so overgrown with forests, and so mountainous and waterless, that it is impossible for an enemy to encamp within one hundred and twenty stadia. Here it was that the most precious of the treasures ofMithridates were kept, which are now stored in theCapitolium, where they were dedicated byPompey.Pythodoris possesses the whole of this country, which is adjacent to the barbarian country occupied by her, and alsoZelitis and Megalopolitis. As forCabeira, which byPompey had been built into a city and calledDiospolis,Pythodoris further adorned it and changed its name toSebaste; and she uses the city as a royal residence. It has also the sanctuary of Men ofPharnaces, as it is called, — the village-city Ameria, which has many temple servants, and also a sacred territory, the fruit of which is always reaped by the ordained priest. And the kings revered this sanctuary so exceedingly that they proclaimed the "royal" oath as follows: "By theFortune of the king and by Men ofPharnaces." And this is also the sanctuary ofSelene, like that among theAlbanians and those inPhrygia, I mean that of Men in the place of the same name and that ofMen Ascaeus near theAntiocheia that is nearPisidia and that of Men in the country of the Antiocheians.
§ 12.3.32 AbovePhanaroea is thePonticComana, which bears the same name as theComana in GreaterCappadocia, having been consecrated to the same goddess and copied after that city; and I might almost say that the courses which they have followed in their sacrifices, in their divine obsessions, and in their reverence for their priests, are about the same, and particularly in the times of the kings who reigned before this, I mean in the times when twice a year, during the "exoduses" of the goddess, as they are called, the priest wore a diadem and ranked second in honor after the king.
§ 12.3.33 Heretofore I have mentionedDorylaus the tactician, who was my mother's great grandfather, and also a secondDorylaus, who was the nephew of the former and the son ofPhiletaerus, saying that, although he had received all the greatest honors fromEupator and in particular the priesthood ofComana, he was caught trying to cause the kingdom to revolt to the Romans; and when he was overthrown, the family was cast into disrepute along with him. But long afterwardsMoaphernes, my mother's uncle, came into distinction just before the dissolution of the kingdom, and again they were unfortunate along with the king, bothMoaphernes and his relatives, except some who revolted from the king beforehand, as did my maternal grandfather, who, seeing that the cause of the king was going badly in the war withLucullus, and at the same time being alienated from him out of wrath at his recently having put to death his cousinTibius andTibius' sonTheophilus, set out to avenge both them and himself; and, taking pledges fromLucullus, he caused fifteen garrisons to revolt to him; and although great promises were made in return for these services, yet, whenPompey, who succeededLucullus in the conduct of the war, went over, he took for enemies all who had in any way favoredLucullus, because of the hatred which had arisen between himself andLucullus; and when he finished the war and returned home, he won so completely that the Senate would not ratify those honors whichLucullus had promised to certain of the people ofPontus, for, he said, it was unjust, when one man had brought the war to a successful issue, that the prizes and the distribution of the rewards should be placed in the hands of another man.
§ 12.3.34 Now in the times of the kings the affairs ofComana were administered in the manner already described, but whenPompey took over the authority, he appointedArchelaus priest and included within his boundaries, in addition to the sacred land, a territory of two schoeni (that is, sixty stadia) in circuit and ordered the inhabitants to obey his rule. Now he was governor of these, and also master of the temple-servants who lived in the city, except that he was not empowered to sell them. And even here the temple-servants were no fewer in number than six thousand. ThisArchelaus was the son of theArchelaus who was honored bySulla and the Senate, and was also a friend ofGabinius, a man of consular rank. WhenGabinius was sent intoSyria,Archelaus himself also went there in the hope of sharing with him in his preparations for theParthian War, but since the Senate would not permit him, he dismissed that hope and found another of greater importance. For it happened at that time thatPtolemaeus, the father ofCleopatra, had been banished by theEgyptians, and his daughter, elder sister ofCleopatra, was in possession of the kingdom; and since a husband of royal family was being sought for her,Archelaus proffered himself to her agents, pretending that he was the son ofMithridates Eupator; and he was accepted, but he reigned only six months. Now thisArchelaus was slain byGabinius in a pitched battle, when the latter was restoringPtolemaeus to his kingdom.
§ 12.3.35 But his son succeeded to the priesthood; and then later,Lycomedes, to whom was assigned an additional territory of four hundred schoeni; but now that he has been deposed, the office is held byDyteutus, son ofAdiatorix, who is thought to have obtained the honor fromAugustus Caesar because of his excellent qualities; forCaesar, after leadingAdiatorix in triumph together with his wife and children, resolved to put him to death together with the eldest of his sons (forDyteutus was the eldest), but when the second of the brothers told the soldiers who were leading them away to execution that he was the eldest, there was a contest between the two for a long time, until the parents persuadedDyteutus to yield the victory to the younger, for he, they said, being more advanced in age, would be a more suitable guardian for his mother and for the remaining brother. And thus, they say, the younger was put to death with his father, whereas the elder was saved and obtained the honor of the priesthood. For learning about this, as it seems, after the men had already been put to death,Caesar was grieved, and he regarded the survivors as worthy of his favor and care, giving them the honor in question.
§ 12.3.36 NowComana is a populous city and is a notable emporium for the people fromArmenia; and at the times of the "exoduses" of the goddess people assemble there from everywhere, from both the cities and the country, men together with women, to attend the festival. And there are certain others, also, who in accordance with a vow are always residing there, performing sacrifices in honor of the goddess. And the inhabitants live in luxury, and all their property is planted with vines; and there is a multitude of women who make gain from their persons, most of whom are dedicated to the goddess, for in a way the city is a lesserCorinth, for there too, on account of the multitude of courtesans, who were sacred toAphrodite, outsiders resorted in great numbers and kept holiday. And the merchants and soldiers who went there squandered all their money so that the following proverb arose in reference to them: "Not for every man is the voyage toCorinth. Such, then, is my account ofComana.
§ 12.3.37 The whole of the country around is held byPythodoris, to whom belong, not onlyPhanaroea, but alsoZelitis and Megalopolitis. ConcerningPhanaroea I have already spoken. As forZelitis, it has a cityZela, fortified on a mound ofSemiramis, with the sanctuary ofAnaitis, who is also revered by theArmenians. Now the sacred rites performed here are characterized by greater sanctity; and it is here that all the people ofPontus make their oaths concerning their matters of greatest importance. The large number of temple-servants and the honors of the priests were, in the time of the kings, of the same type as I have stated before, but at the present time everything is in the power ofPythodoris. Many persons had abused and reduced both the multitude of temple-servants and the rest of the resources of the sanctuary. The adjacent territory, also, was reduced, having been divided into several domains — I meanZelitis, as it is called (which has the cityZela on a mound); for in, early times the kings governedZela, not as a city, but as a sacred precinct of thePersian gods, and the priest was the master of the whole thing. It was inhabited by the multitude of temple-servants, and by the priest, who had an abundance of resources; and the sacred territory as well as that of the priest was subject to him and his numerous attendants.Pompey added many provinces to the boundaries ofZelitis, and namedZela, as he didMegalopolis, a city, and he united the latter and Culupene and Camisene into one state; the latter two border on both LesserArmenia andLaviansene, and they contain rock-salt, and also an ancient fortress called Camisa, now in ruins. The later Roman prefects assigned a portion of these two governments to the priests ofComana, a portion to the priest ofZela, and a portion toAteporix, a dynast of the family of tetrarchs ofGalatia; but now thatAteporix has died, this portion, which is not large, is subject to the Romans, being called a province (and this little state is a political organization of itself, the people having incorporated Carana into it, from which fact its country is called Caranitis), whereas the rest is held byPythodoris andDyteutus.
§ 12.3.38 There remain to be described the parts of thePontus which lie between this country and the countries of theAmisenians andSinopeans, which latter extend towardsCappadocia andGalatia andPaphlagonia. Now after the territory of theAmisenians, and extending to theHalys River, isPhazemonitis, whichPompey named Neapolitis, proclaiming the settlement at the villagePhazemon a city and calling it Neapolis. The northern side of this country is bounded byGazelonitis and the country of theAmisenians; the western by theHalys River; the eastern byPhanaroea; and the remaining side by my country, that of theAmaseians, which is by far the largest and best of all. Now the part ofPhazemonitis towardsPhanaroea is covered by a lake which is like a sea in size, is calledStephane, abounds in fish, and has all round it abundant pastures of all kinds. On its shores lies a strong fortress, Icizari, now deserted; and, near by, a royal palace, now in ruins. The remainder of the country is in general bare of trees and productive of grain. Above the country of theAmaseians are situated the hot springs of thePhazemonitae, which are extremely good for the health, and alsoSagylium, with a stronghold situated on a high steep mountain that runs up into a sharp peak.Sagylium also has an abundant reservoir of water, which is now in neglect, although it was useful to the kings for many purposes. HereArsaces, one of the sons ofPharnaces, who was playing the dynast and attempting a revolution without permission from any of the prefects, was captured and slain. He was captured, however, not by force, although the stronghold was taken byPolemon andLycomedes, both of them kings, but by starvation, for he fled up into the mountain without provisions, being shut out from the plains, and he also found the wells of the reservoir choked up by huge rocks; for this had been done by order ofPompey, who ordered that the garrisons be pulled down and not be left useful to those who wished to flee up to them for the sake of robberies. Now it was in this way thatPompey arrangedPhazemonitis for administrative purposes, but the later rulers distributed also this country among kings.
§ 12.3.39 My city [Amaseia] is situated in a large deep valley, through which flows theIris River. Both by human foresight and by nature it is an admirably devised city, since it can at the same time afford the advantage of both a city and a fortress; for it is a high and precipitous rock, which descends abruptly to the river, and has on one side the wall on the edge of the river where the city is settled and on the other the wall that runs up on either side to the peaks. These peaks are two in number, are united with one another by nature, and are magnificently towered. Within this circuit are both the palaces and monuments of the kings. The peaks are connected by a neck which is altogether narrow, and is five or six stadia in height on either side as one goes up from the riverbanks and the suburbs; and from the neck to the peaks there remains another ascent of one stadium, which is sharp and superior to any kind of force. The rock also has reservoirs of water inside it, A water-supply of which the city cannot be deprived, since two tube-like channels have been hewn out, one towards the river and the other towards the neck. And two bridges have been built over the river, one from the city to the suburbs and the other from the suburbs to the outside territory; for it is at this bridge that the mountain which lies above the rock terminates. And there is a valley extending from the river which at first is not altogether wide, but it later widens out and forms the plain called Chiliocomum; and then comes the Diacopene and Pimolisene country, all of which is fertile, extending to theHalys River. These are the northern parts of the country of theAmaseians, and are about five hundred stadia in length. Then in order comes the remainder of their country, which is much longer than this, extending to Babanomus andXimene, which latter itself extends as far as theHalys River. This, then, is the length of their country, whereas the breadth from the north to the south extends, not only toZelitis, but also to GreaterCappadocia, as far as theTrocmi. InXimene there are "halae" of rock-salt, after which the river is supposed to have been called "Halys." There are several demolished strongholds in my country, and also much deserted land, because of theMithridatic War. However, it is all well supplied with trees; a part of it affords pasturage forhorses and is adapted to the raising of the other animals; and the whole of it is beautifully adapted to habitation.Amaseia was also given to kings, though it is now a province.
§ 12.3.40 There remains that part of thePontic province which lies outside theHalys River, I mean the country round Mt.Olgassys, contiguous to Sinopis. Mt.Olgassys is extremely high and hard to travel. And sanctuaries that have been established everywhere on this mountain are held by thePaphlagonians. And round it lies fairly good territory, both Blaene and Domanitis, through which latter flows the Amnias River. HereMithridates Eupator utterly wiped out the forces ofNicomedes theBithynian — not in person, however, since it happened that he was not even present, but through his generals. And whileNicomedes, fleeing with a few others, safely escaped to his homeland and from there sailed toItaly,Mithridates followed him and not only tookBithynia at the first assault but also took possession ofAsia as far asCaria andLycia. And here, too, a place was proclaimed a city, I meanPompeiupolis and in this city are thesandarake [realgar/arsenic sulphate] works, not far away fromPimolisa, a royal fortress now in ruins, after which the country on either side of the river is called Pimolisene. The mountain of theSandarake works is hollowed out in consequence of the mining done there, since the workmen have excavated great cavities beneath it. The mine used to be worked by publicans, who used as miners the slaves sold in the market because of their crimes; for, in addition to the painfulness of the work, they say that the air in the mines is both deadly and hard to endure on account of the grievous odor of the ore, so that the workmen are doomed to a quick death. What is more, the mine is often left idle because of the unprofitableness of it, since the workmen are not only more than two hundred in number, but are continually spent by disease and death. So much be said concerningPontus.
§ 12.3.41 AfterPompeiupolis comes the remainder of the interior ofPaphlagonia, extending westwards as far asBithynia. This country, small though it is, was governed by several rulers a little before my time, but, the family of kings having died out, it is now in possession of the Romans. At any rate, they give to the country that borders onBithynia the names "Timonitis," "the country of Gezatorix," and also "Marmolitis," "Sanisene," and "Potamia. There was also a Cimiatene, in which wasCimiata, a strong fortress situated at the foot of the mountainous country of theOlgassys. This was used byMithridates, surnamed Ctistes, as a base of operations when he established himself as lord ofPontus; and his descendants preserved the succession down toEupator. The last to reign overPaphlagonia wasDeiotarus, the son ofCastor, surnamedPhiladelphus, who possessedGangra, the royal residence of Morzeus, which was at the same time a small town and a fortress.
§ 12.3.42 Eudoxus mentions fish that are "dug up" inPaphlagonia "in dry places," but he does not distinguish the place; and he says that they are dug up "in moist places round theAscanian Lake belowCius," without saying anything clear on the subject. Since I am describing the part ofPaphlagonia which borders onPontus and since theBithynians border on thePaphlagonians towards the west, I shall try to go over this region also; and then, taking a new beginning from the countries of these people and thePaphlagonians, I shall interweave my description of their regions with that of the regions which follow these in order towards the south as far as theTaurus — the regions that ran parallel toPontus andPaphlagonia; for some such order and division is suggested by the nature of the regions.
§ 12.4.1 BithyniaBithynia is bounded on the east by thePaphlagonians andMariandyni and some of theEpicteti; on the north by thePontic Sea, from the outlets of theSangarius River to the mouth of the sea atByzantium andChalcedon; on the west by thePropontis; and towards the south byMysia and byPhrygia Epictetus, as it is called, though the same is also called "Hellespontiac"Phrygia.
§ 12.4.2 In this last country, at the mouth of thePontus, are situatedChalcedon, founded by theMegarians, andChrysopolis, a village, and theChalcedonian sanctuary; and slightly above the sea the country has a spring called Azaritia, which breeds little crocodiles. Then theChalcedonian shore is followed by the Astacene Gulf as it is called, a part of thePropontis; and it was on this gulf thatNicomedeia was founded, being named after one of theBithynian kings, who founded it. But many kings, for example thePtolemies, were, on account of the fame of the first, given the same name. And on the gulf itself there was also a cityAstacus, founded by theMegarians andAthenians and afterwards byDoedalsus; and it was after the cityAstacus that the gulf was named. It was razed to the ground byLysimachus, and its inhabitants were transferred toNicomedeia by the founder of the latter.
§ 12.4.3 Continuous with the Astacene Gulf is another gulf, which runs more nearly towards the rising sun than the former does; and on this gulf isPrusias, formerly calledCius.Cius was razed to the ground byPhilip, the son ofDemetrius and father ofPerseus, and given by him toPrusias the son of Zelas, who had helped him raze both this city andMyrleia, which latter is a neighboring city and also is nearPrusa. AndPrusias restored them from their ruins and named the cityCius "Prusias" after himself andMyrleia "Apameia" after his wife. This is thePrusias who welcomedHannibal, when the latter withdrew thither after the defeat ofAntiochus, and who retired fromPhrygia on theHellespont in accordance with an agreement made with theAttalici. This country was in earlier times called LesserPhrygia, but theAttalici called itPhrygia Epictetus. AbovePrusias lies a mountain called Arganthonium. And here is the scene of the myth ofHylas, one of the companions ofHeracles who sailed with him on theArgo, and who, when he was going out to get water, was carried off by the nymphs. And whenCius, who was also a companion ofHeracles and with him on the voyage, returned fromColchis, he stayed here and founded theCius which was named after him. And still to this day a kind of festival is celebrated among thePrusians, a mountain ranging festival, in which they march in procession and callHylas, as though making their exodus to the forests in quest of him. And having shown a friendly disposition towards the Romans in the conduct of their government, thePrusians obtained freedom.Prusa is situated on theMysianOlympus; it is a well governed city, borders on thePhrygians and theMysians, and was founded by thePrusias who made war againstCroesus.
§ 12.4.4 It is difficult to mark the boundaries between theBithynians and thePhrygians and theMysians, or even those between theDoliones roundCyzicus and the Mygdonians and theTrojans. And it is agreed that each tribe is "apart" from the others (in the case of thePhrygians andMysians, at least, there is a proverb, "Apart are the boundaries of theMysians andPhrygians), but that it is difficult to mark the boundaries between them. The cause of this is that the foreigners who went there, being barbarians and soldiers, did not hold the conquered country firmly, but for the most part were wanderers, driving people out and being driven out. One might conjecture that all these tribes were Thracian because theThracians occupy the other side and because the people on either side do not differ much from one another.
§ 12.4.5 But still, as far as one is able to conjecture, one might put downMysia as situated betweenBithynia and the outlet of theAesepus River, as touching upon the sea, and as extending as far asOlympus, along almost the whole of it; andEpictetus as lying in the interior roundMysia, but nowhere touching upon the sea, and as extending to the eastern parts of theAscanian Lake and territory; for the territory was called by the same name as the lake. And a part of this territory wasPhrygian and a partMysian, but thePhrygian part was farther away fromTroy. And in fact one should thus interpret the words of the poet when he says, "AndPhorcys and godlikeAscanius led thePhrygians from afar, fromAscania, that is, thePhrygianAscania, since his words imply that anotherAscania, theMysian, near the presentNicaea, is nearerTroy, that is, theAscania to which the poet refers when he says, "and Palmys, andAscanius, and Morys, son ofHippotion, who had come from deep-soiledAscania to relieve their fellows. And it is not remarkable if he speaks of oneAscanius as a leader of thePhrygians and as having come fromAscania and also of anotherAscanius as a leader of theMysians and as having come fromAscania, for inHomer identity of names is of frequent occurrence, as also the surnaming of people after rivers and lakes and places.
§ 12.4.6 And the poet himself gives theAesepus as a boundary of theMysians, for after naming the foothills ofTroy aboveIlium that were subject toAeneas, which he callsDardania, he puts downLycia as next towards the north, the country that was subject toPandarus, in whichZeleia was situated; and he says, "and they that dwelt inZeleia 'neath the nethermost foot of Mt.Ida, wealthy men,Trojans, who drink the dark water of theAesepus. BelowZeleia, near the sea, and on this side of theAesepus, are the plain ofAdrasteia, Mt.Tereia, andPitya (that is, speaking generally, the presentCyzicene nearPriapus), which the poet names next afterZeleia; and then he returns to the parts towards the east and those on the far side of theAesepus, by which he indicates that he regards the country as far as theAesepus as the northerly and easterly limit of theTroad. Assuredly, however,Mysia andOlympus come after theTroad. Now ancient tradition suggests some such position of the tribes as this, but the present differences are the result of numerous changes, since different rulers have been in control at different times, and have confounded together some tribes and sundered others. For both thePhrygians and theMysians had the mastery after the capture ofTroy; and then later theLydians; and after them theAeolians and theIonians; and then thePersians and theMacedonians; and lastly the Romans, under whose reign most of the peoples have already lost both their dialects and their names, since a different partition of the country has been made. But it is better for me to consider this matter when I describe the conditions as they now are, at the same time giving proper attention to conditions as they were in antiquity.
§ 12.4.7 In the interior ofBithynia are, not onlyBithynium, which is situated aboveTieium and holds the territory round Salon, where is the best pasturage forcattle and whence comes the Salonian cheese, but alsoNicaea, the metropolis ofBithynia, situated on theAscanian Lake, which is surrounded by a plain that is large and very fertile but not at all healthful in summer.Nicaea was first founded byAntigonus the son ofPhilip, who called it Antigonia, and then byLysimachus, who changed its name to that ofNicaea his wife. She was the daughter ofAntipater. The city is sixteen stadia in circuit and is quadrangular in shape; it is situated in a plain, and has four gates; and its streets are cut at right angles, so that the four gates can be seen from one stone which is set up in the middle of the gymnasium. Slightly above theAscanian Lake is the townOtroea, situated just on the borders ofBithynia towards the east. It is surmised thatOtroea was so named afterOtreus.
§ 12.4.8 ThatBithynia was a settlement of theMysians will first be testified byScylax theCaryandian, who says thatPhrygians andMysians lived round theAscanian Lake; and next by theDionysius who wrote on "The Foundings" of cities, who says that the strait atChalcedon andByzantium, now called the ThracianBosporus, was in earlier times called theMysianBosporus. And this might also be set down as an evidence that theMysians wereThracians. Further, whenEuphorion says, "beside the waters of theMysianAscanius, and whenAlexander theAitolian says, "who have their homes on theAscanian streams, on the lips of theAscanian Lake, where dwelt Dolion the son ofSilenus andMelia, they bear witness to the same thing, since theAscanian Lake is nowhere to be found but here alone.
§ 12.4.9 Bithynia has produced men notable for their learning:Xenocrates the philosopher,Dionysius the dialectician,Hipparchus,Theodosius and his sons the mathematicians, and alsoCleochares the rhetorician ofMyrleia andAsclepiades the physician ofPrusa.
§ 12.4.10 To the south of theBithynians are theMysians roundOlympus (who by some are called theOlympeni and by others theHellespontii) and the HellespontianPhrygia; and to the south of thePaphlagonians are theGalatae; and still to the south of these two is GreaterPhrygia, as alsoLycaonia, extending as far as theCilician and thePisidianTaurus. But since the region continuous withPaphlagonia is adjacent toPontus andCappadocia and the tribes which I have already described, it might be appropriate for me first to give an account of the parts in the neighborhood of these and then set forth a description of the places that come next thereafter.
§ 12.5.1 GALATIA
TheGalatians, then, are to the south of thePaphlagonians. And of these there are three tribes; two of them, theTrocmi and theTolistobogii, are named after their leaders, whereas the third, theTectosages, is named after the tribe inCeltica. This country was occupied by theGalatae after they had wandered about for a long time, and after they had overrun the country that was subject to the Attalid and theBithynian kings, until by voluntary cession they received the presentGalatia, or Gallo-Graecia, as it is called.Leonnorius is generally reputed to have been the chief leader of their expedition across toAsia. The three tribes spoke the same language and differed from each other in no respect; and each was divided into four portions which were called tetrarchies, each tetrarchy having its own tetrarch, and also one judge and one military commander, both subject to the tetrarch, and two subordinate commanders. The Council of the twelve tetrarchs consisted of three hundred men, who assembled at Drynemetum, as it was called. Now the Council passed judgment upon murder cases, but the tetrarchs and the judges upon all others. Such, then, was the organization ofGalatia long ago, but in my time the power has passed to three rulers, then to two; and then to one,Deiotarus, and then toAmyntas, who succeeded him. But at the present time the Romans possess both this country and the whole of the country that became subject toAmyntas, having united them into one province.
§ 12.5.2 TheTrocmi possess the parts nearPontus andCappadocia. These are the most powerful of the parts occupied by theGalatians. They have three walled garrisons:Tavium, the emporium of the people in that part of the country, where are the colossal statue ofZeus in bronze and his sacred precinct, a place of refuge; and Mithridatium, whichPompey gave to Bogodiatarus, having separated it from the kingdom ofPontus; and third, Danala, wherePompey andLucullus had their conference,Pompey coming there as successor ofLucullus in the command of the war, andLucullus giving over toPompey his authority and leaving the country to celebrate his triumph. TheTrocmi, then, possess these parts, but theTectosages the parts near GreaterPhrygia in the neighborhood ofPessinus andOrcaorci. To theTectosages belonged the fortressAncyra, which bore the same name as thePhrygian town situated towardLydia in the neighborhood of Blaudus. And theTolistobogii border on theBithynians andPhrygia Epictetus as it is called. Their fortresses are Blucium and Peium, the former of which was the royal residence ofDeiotarus and the latter the place where he kept his treasures.
§ 12.5.3 Pessinus is the greatest of the emporiums in that part of the world, containing a sanctuary of theMother of the Gods, which is an object of great veneration. They call herAgdistis. The priests were in ancient times potentates, I might call them, who reaped the fruits of a great priesthood, but at present the prerogatives of these have been much reduced, although the emporium still endures. The sacred precinct has been built up by theAttalic kings in a manner befitting a holy place, with a sanctuary and also with porticos of white marble. The Romans made the sanctuary famous when, in accordance with oracles of theSibyl, they sent for the statue of the goddess there, just as they did in the case of that ofAsclepius atEpidaurus. There is also a mountain situated above the city,Dindymum, after which the countryDindymene was named, just asCybele was named afterCybela. Near by, also, flows theSangarius River; and on this river are the ancient habitations of thePhrygians, ofMidas, and ofGordius, who lived even before his time, and of certain others, — habitations which preserve not even traces of cities, but are only villages slightly larger than the others, for instance,Gordium andGorbeus, the royal residence ofCastor the son of Saocondarius, whereDeiotarus,Castor's father-in-law, slew him and his own daughter. And he pulled down the fortress and ruined most of the settlement.
§ 12.5.4 AfterGalatia towards the south are situated Lake Tatta, which lies alongside GreaterCappadocia nearMorimene but is a part of GreaterPhrygia, and the country continuous with this lake and extending as far as theTaurus, most of which was held byAmyntas. Now lake Tatta is a natural salt-pan; and the water so easily congeals round everything that is immersed in it, that when people let down into it rings made of rope they draw up wreaths of salt, and that, on account of the congealing of the salt, the birds which touch the water with their wings fall on the spot and are thus caught.
§ 12.6.1 Lycaonia
Such, then, is Tatta. And the regions roundOrcaorci and Pitnissus, as also the plateaus of theLycaonians, are cold, bare of trees, and grazed by wildasses, though there is a great scarcity of water; and even where it is possible to find water, then wells are the deepest in the world, just as inSoatra, where the water is actually sold (this is a village-city nearGarsaura). But still, although the country is unwatered, it is remarkably productive ofsheep; but the wool is coarse, and yet some persons have acquired very great wealth from this alone.Amyntas had over three hundred flocks in this region. There are also two lakes in this region, the larger being LakeCoralis and the smaller Lake Trogitis. In this neighborhood is alsoIconium, a town that is well settled and has a more prosperous territory than the above-mentionedass-grazing country. This place was held byPolemon. Here the region in question is near theTaurus, which separatesCappadocia andLycaonia fromCilicia Tracheia, which last lies above that region. The boundary between theLycaonians and theCappadocians lies betweenCoropassus, a village of theLycaonians, andGarsaura, a town of the Cappadocians. The distance between these strongholds is about one hundred and twenty stadia.
§ 12.6.2 ToLycaonia belongs alsoIsaurice, near theTaurus itself, which has the two Isauras, villages bearing the same name, one of which is called OldIsaura, and the other NewIsaura, which is well-fortified. Numerous other villages were subject to these, and they all were settlements of robbers. They were a source of much trouble to the Romans and in particular toPublius Servilius, surnamed Isauricus, with whom I was acquainted; he subjected these places to the Romans and also destroyed most of the strongholds of thepirates that were situated on the sea.
§ 12.6.3 On the side ofIsaurice liesDerbe, which lies closer toCappadocia than to any other country and was the royal seat of the tyrantAntipater Derbetes. He also possessedLaranda. But in my timeDerbe and also the two Isauras have been held byAmyntas, who attacked and killedDerbetes, although he receivedIsaura from the Romans. And, indeed, after destroying the OldIsaura, he built for himself a royal residence there. And though he was building a new wall in the same place, he did not live to complete it, but was killed by theCilicians, when he was invading the country of theHomonadeis and was captured by ambuscade.
§ 12.6.4 For, being in possession of theAntiocheia near Pisidia and of the country as far as theApollonias nearApameia Cibotus and of certain parts of the country alongside the mountain, and ofLycaonia, he was trying to exterminate theCilicians and thePisidians, who from theTaurus were overrunning this country, which belonged to thePhrygians and theCilicians; and he captured many places which previously had been impregnable, among which wasCremna. However, he did not even try to winSandalium by force, which is situated betweenCremna andSagalassus.
§ 12.6.5 NowCremna is occupied by Roman colonists andSagalassus is subject to the same Roman governor to whom the whole kingdom ofAmyntas was subject. It is a day's journey distant fromApameia, having a descent of about thirty stadia from the fortress. It is also called Selgessus; this city was also captured byAlexander. NowAmyntas capturedCremna, and, passing into the country of theHomonadeis, who were considered too strong to capture, and having now established himself as master of most of the places, having even slain their tyrant, was caught by treachery through the artifice of the tyrant's wife. And he was put to death by those people, butCyrinius overthrew the inhabitants by starving them, and captured alive four thousand men and settled them in the neighboring cities, leaving the country destitute of all its men who were in the prime of life. In the midst of the heights of theTaurus, which are very steep and for the most part impassable, there is a hollow and fertile plain which is divided into several valleys. But though the people tilled this plain, they lived on the overhanging brows of the mountains or in caves. They were armed for the most part and were wont to overrun the country of others, having mountains that served as walls about their country.
§ 12.7.1 Pisidia Contiguous to these are thePisidians, and in particular theSelgeis, who are the most notable of thePisidians. Now the greater part of them occupy the summits of theTaurus, but some, situated aboveSide andAspendus,Pamphylian cities, occupy hilly places, everywhere planted with olive-trees; and the region above this (we are now in the mountains) is occupied by the Catenneis, whose country borders on that of theSelgeis and theHomonadeis; but theSagalasseis occupy the region this side theTaurus that facesMilyas.
§ 12.7.2 Artemidorus says that the cities of thePisidians areSelge,Sagalassus,Petnelissus,Adada,Tymbriada,Cremna,Pityassus,Amblada,Anabura,Sinda,Aarassus, Tarbassus, andTermessus. Of these, some are entirely in the mountains, while others extend even as far as the foot-hills on either side, to bothPamphylia andMilyas, and border on thePhrygians and theLydians and theCarians, which are all peaceable tribes, although they are situated towards the north. But thePamphylians, who share much in the traits of theCilician stock of people, do not wholly abstain from the business ofpiracy, nor yet do they allow the peoples on their borders to live in peace, although they occupy the southern parts of the foot-hills of theTaurus. And on the borders of thePhrygians andCaria are situatedTabae andSinda, and alsoAmblada, whence is exported the Ambladian wine, which is suitable for use in medicinal diets.
§ 12.7.3 Now all the rest of the above-mentionedPisidians who live in the mountains are divided into separate tribes governed by tyrants, like theCilicians, and are trained inpiracy. It is said that in ancient times certainLeleges, a wandering people, intermingled with them and on account of similarity of character stayed there.Selge was founded at first by theLacedemonians as a city, and still earlier byCalchas; but later it remained an independent city, having waxed so powerful on account of the law-abiding manner in which its government was conducted that it once contained twenty thousand men. And the nature of the region is wonderful, for among the summits of theTaurus there is a country which can support tens of thousands of inhabitants and is so very fertile that it is planted with the olive in many places, and with fine vineyards, and produces abundant pasture forcattle of all kinds; and above this country, all round it, lie forests of various kinds of timber. But it is the styrax-tree that is produced in greatest abundance there, a tree which is not large but grows straight up, the tree from which the styracine javelins are made, similar to those made of cornel-wood. And a species of wood-eating worm is bred in the trunk which eats through the wood of the tree to the surface, and at first pours out raspings like bran or saw-dust, which are piled up at the root of the tree; and then a liquid substance exudes which readily hardens into a substance like gum. But a part of this liquid flows down upon the raspings at the root of the tree and mixes with both them and the soil, except so much of it as condenses on the surface of the raspings and remains pure, and except the part which hardens on the surface of the trunk down which it flows, this too being pure. And the people make a kind of substance mixed with wood and earth from that which is not pure, this being more fragrant than the pure substance but otherwise inferior in strength to it (a fact unnoticed by most people), which is used in large quantities as frankincense by the worshippers of the gods. And people praise also theSelgic iris and the ointment made from it. The region round the city and the territory of theSelgians has only a few approaches, since their territory is mountainous and full of precipices and ravines, which are formed, among other rivers, by theEurymedon and theCestrus, which flow from theSelgic mountains and empty into thePamphylian Sea. But they have bridges on their roads. Because of their natural fortifications, however, theSelgians have never even once, either in earlier or later times, become subject to others, but unmolested have reaped the fruit of the whole country except the part situated below them inPamphylia and inside theTaurus, for which they were always at war with the kings; but in their relations with the Romans, they occupied the part in question on certain stipulated conditions. They sent an embassy toAlexander and offered to receive his commands as a friendly country, but at the present time they have become wholly subject to the Romans and are included in the territory that was formerly subject toAmyntas.
§ 12.8.1 Phrygia Bordering on theBithynians towards the south, as I have said, are theMysians andPhrygians who live round theMysianOlympus, as it is called. And each of these tribes is divided into two parts. For one part ofPhrygia is called GreaterPhrygia, the part over whichMidas reigned, a part of which was occupied by theGalatians, whereas the other is called LesserPhrygia, that on theHellespont and roundOlympus, I meanPhrygia Epictetus, as it is called.Mysia is likewise divided into two parts, I meanOlympene, which is continuous withBithynia andPhrygia Epictetus, which, according toArtemidorus, was colonized by theMysians who lived on the far side of theIster, and, secondly, the country in the neighborhood of theCaicus River andPergamene, extending as far asTeuthrania and the outlets of the river.
§ 12.8.2 But the boundaries of these parts have been so confused with one another, as I have often said, that it is uncertain even as to the country round Mt.Sipylus, which the ancients calledPhrygia, whether it was a part of GreaterPhrygia or of LesserPhrygia, where lived, they say, the "Phrygian"Tantalus andPelops andNiobe. But no matter which of the two opinions is correct, the confusion of the boundaries is obvious; forPergamene and Elaitis, where theCaicus empties into the sea, andTeuthrania, situated between these two countries, whereTeuthras lived and whereTelephus was reared, lie between theHellespont on the one side and the country roundSipylus andMagnesia, which lies at the foot ofSipylus, on the other; and therefore, as I have said before, it is a task to determine the boundaries (" Apart are the boundaries of theMysians andPhrygians ).
§ 12.8.3 And theLydians and theMaeonians, whomHomer calls the Meiones, are in some way confused both with these peoples and with one another, because some say that they are the same and others that they are different; and they are confused with these people because some say that theMysians wereThracians but others that they wereLydians, thus concurring with an ancient explanation given byXanthus theLydian andMenecrates ofElaea, who explain the origin of the name of theMysians by saying that the oxya-tree is so named by theLydians. And the oxya-tree abounds in the neighborhood of Mt.Olympus, where they say that the decimated persons were put out and that their descendants were theMysians of later times, so named after the oxya-tree, and that their language bears witness to this; for, they add, their language is, in a way, a mixture of theLydian and thePhrygian languages, for the reason that, although they lived round Mt.Olympus for a time, yet when thePhrygians crossed over fromThrace and slew a ruler ofTroy and of the country near it, those people took up their abode there, whereas theMysians took up their abode above the sources of theCaicus nearLydia.
§ 12.8.4 Contributing to the creation of myths of this kind are the confusion of the tribes there and the fertility of the country this side theHalys River, particularly that of the seaboard, on account of which attacks were made against it from numerous places and continually by peoples from the opposite mainland, or else the people near by would attack one another. Now it was particularly in the time of theTrojan War and after that time that invasions and migrations took place, since at the same time both the barbarians and the Greeks felt an impulse to acquire possession of the countries of others; but this was also the case before theTrojan War, for the tribe of thePelasgians was then in existence, as also that of theCauconians andLeleges. And, as I have said before, they wandered in ancient times over many regions of Europe. These tribes the poet makes the allies of theTrojans, but not as coming from the opposite mainland. The accounts both of thePhrygians and of theMysians go back to earlier times than theTrojan War. The existence of two groups ofLycians arouses suspicion that they were of the same tribe, whether it was theTrojanLycians or those nearCaria that colonized the country of the other of the two. And perhaps the same was also true in the case of theCilicians, for these, too, were two-fold; however, we are unable to get the same kind of evidence that the present tribe ofCilicians was already in existence before theTrojan War.Telephus might be thought to have come fromArcadia with his mother; and having become related toTeuthras, to whom he was a welcome guest, by the marriage of his mother to that ruler, was regarded as his son and also succeeded to the rulership of theMysians.
§ 12.8.5 Not only theCarians, who in earlier times were islanders, but also theLeleges, as they say, became mainlanders with the aid of theCretans, who founded, among other places,Miletus, having takenSarpedon from theCretanMilatos as founder; and they settled theTermilae in the country which is now calledLycia; and they say that these settlers were brought fromCrete bySarpedon, a brother ofMinos andRhadamanthus, and that he gave the nameTermilae to the people who were formerly calledMilyae, asHerodotus says, and were in still earlier times calledSolymi, but that whenLycus the son ofPandion went over there he named the peopleLycians after himself. Now this account represents theSolymi and theLycians as the same people, but the poet makes a distinction between them. At any rate,Bellerophontes set out fromLycia and "fought with the gloriousSolymi. And likewise his sonPeisander was slain when fighting theSolymi byAres, as he says. And he also speaks ofSarpedon as a native ofLycia.
§ 12.8.6 But the fact that the fertility of the country of which I am speaking was set before the powerful as a common prize of war is confirmed by many things which have taken place even subsequent to theTrojan War, since even theAmazons took courage to attack it, against whom not onlyPriam, but alsoBellerophontes, are said to have made expeditions; and the naming of ancient cities after theAmazons attests this fact. And in theTrojan Plain there is a hill which by men is called 'Batieia,' but by the immortals 'the tomb of the much-boundingMyrina,' who, historians say, was one of theAmazons, inferring this from the epithet "much-bounding"; for they say thathorses are called "well-bounding" because of their speed, and thatMyrina, therefore, was called "much-bounding" because of the speed with which she drove her chariot.Myrina, therefore, is named after thisAmazon. And the neighboring islands had the same experience because of their fertility; andHomer clearly testifies that, among these,Rhodes andCos were already inhabited by Greeks before theTrojan War.
§ 12.8.7 After theTrojan War the migrations of the Greeks and the Trerans, and the onsets of theCimmerians and of theLydians, and, after this, of thePersians and theMacedonians, and, at last, of theGalatians, disturbed and confused everything. But the obscurity has arisen, not on account of the changes only, but also on account of the disagreements of the historians, who do not say the same things about the same subjects, calling theTrojansPhrygians, as do the tragic poets, and theLyciansCarians; and so in the case of other peoples. But theTrojans, having waxed so strong from a small beginning that they became kings of kings, afforded both the poet and his expounders grounds for enquiring what should be calledTroy; for in a general way he calls "Trojans" the peoples, one and all, who fought on theTrojan side, just as he called their opponents both "Danaans" and "Achaeans"; and yet, of course, we shall surely not speak ofPaphlagonia as a part ofTroy, nor yetCaria, nor the country that borders onCaria, I meanLycia. I mean when the poet says, "theTrojans advanced with clamor and with a cry like birds, and when he says of their opponents, "but theAchaeans advanced in silence, breathing rage. And in many ways he uses terms differently. But still, although such is the case, I must try to arbitrate the several details to the best of my ability. However, if anything in ancient history escapes me, I must leave it unmentioned, for the task of the geographer does not lie in that field, and I must speak of things as they now are.
§ 12.8.8 Above thePropontis, then, there are two mountains, theMysianOlympus and Mt.Ida. Now the region of theBithynians lies at the foot ofOlympus, whereasTroy is situated between Mt.Ida and the sea and borders on the mountain. As forTroy, I shall describe it and the parts adjacent to it towards the south later on, but at present let me describe the country of Mt.Olympus and the parts which come next in order thereafter, extending as far as theTaurus and lying parallel to the parts which I have previously traversed. Mt.Olympus, then, is not only well settled all round but also has on its heights immense forests and places so well-fortified by nature that they can support bands of robbers; and among these bands there often arise tyrants who are able to maintain their power for a long time; for example,Cleon, who in my time was chieftain of the bands of robbers.
§ 12.8.9 Cleon was from the villageGordiou Kome, which he later enlarged, making it a city and calling itJuliopolis; but from the beginning he used the strongest of the strongholds, Callydium by name, as retreat and base of operations for the robbers. And he indeed proved useful toAntony, since he made an attack upon those who were levying money forLabienus at the time when the latter held possession ofAsia, and he hindered his preparations, but in the course of theActian War, having revolted fromAntony, he joined the generals ofCaesar and was honored more than he deserved, since he also received, in addition to whatAntony had given him, whatCaesar gave him, so that he was invested with the guise of dynast, from being a robber, that is, he was priest ofZeus Abrettenus, aMysian god, and held subject a part of Morene, which, likeAbrettene, is alsoMysian, and received at last the priesthood ofComana inPontus, although he died within a month's time after he went down toComana. He was carried off by an acute disease, which either attacked him in consequence of excessive repletion or else, as the people round the sanctuary said, was inflicted upon him because of the anger of the goddess; for the dwelling of both the priest and the priestess is within the circuit of the sacred precinct, and the sacred precinct, apart from its sanctity in other respects, is most conspicuously free from the impurity of the eating ofswine's flesh; in fact, the city as a whole is free from it; andswine cannot even be brought into the city.Cleon, however, among the first things he did when he arrived, displayed the character of the robber by transgressing this custom, as though he had come, not as priest, but as corrupter of all that was sacred.
§ 12.8.10 Such, then, is Mt.Olympus; and towards the north it is inhabited all round by theBithynians and Mygdonians andDoliones, whereas the rest of it is occupied byMysians andEpicteti. Now the peoples roundCyzicus, from theAesepus River to theRhyndacus River and lakeDascylitis, are for the most part calledDoliones, whereas the peoples who live next after these as far as the country of theMyrleians are called Mygdonians. Above lakeDascylitis lie two other lakes, large ones, I mean LakeApolloniatis and LakeMiletopolitis. Near LakeDascylitis is the cityDascylium, and near LakeMiletopolitisMiletopolis, and near the third lakeApollonia on Rhyndacus," as it is called. But at the present time most of these places belong to theCyziceni.
§ 12.8.11 Cyzicus is an island in thePropontis, being connected with the mainland by two bridges; and it is not only most excellent in the fertility of its soil, but in size has a perimeter of about five hundred stadia. It has a city of the same name near the bridges themselves, and two harbors that can be closed, and more than two hundred ship-sheds. One part of the city is on level ground and the other is near a mountain called "Arcton-oros." Above this mountain lies another mountain,Dindymus; it rises into a single peak, and it has a sanctuary ofDindymene,Mother of the Gods, which was founded by theArgonauts. This city rivals the foremost of the cities ofAsia in size, in beauty, and in its excellent administration of affairs both in peace and in war. And its adornment appears to be of a type similar to that ofRhodes andMassalia and ancientCarthage. Now I am omitting most details, but I may say that there are three directors who take care of the public buildings and the engines of war, and three who have charge of the treasure-houses, one of which contains arms and another engines of war and another grain. They prevent the grain from spoiling by mixing Chalcidic earth with it. They showed in theMithridatic war the advantage resulting from this preparation of theirs; for when the king unexpectedly came over against them with one hundred and fifty thousand men and with a large cavalry, and took possession of the mountain opposite the city, the mountain calledAdrasteia, and of the suburb, and then, when he transferred his army to the neck of land above the city and was fighting them, not only on land, but also by sea with four hundred ships, theCyziceni held out against all attacks, and, by digging a counter-tunnel, all but captured the king alive in his own tunnel; but he forestalled this by taking precautions and by withdrawing outside his tunnel:Lucullus, the Roman general, was able, though late, to send an auxiliary force to the city by night; and, too, as an aid to theCyziceni, famine fell upon that multitudinous army, a thing which the king did not foresee, because he suffered a great loss of men before he left the island. But the Romans honored the city; and it is free to this day, and holds a large territory, not only that which it has held from ancient times, but also other territory presented to it by the Romans; for, of theTroad, they possess the parts roundZeleia on the far side of theAesepus, as also the plain ofAdrasteia, and, of LakeDascylitis, they possess some parts, while theByzantians possess the others. And in addition to Dolionis andMygdonis they occupy a considerable territory extending as far as lakeMiletopolitis and LakeApolloniatis itself. It is through this region that theRhyndacus River flows; this river has its sources inAzanitis, and then, receiving fromMysiaAbrettene, among other rivers, the Macestus, which flows fromAncyra in Abaeitis, empties into thePropontis opposite the islandBesbicos. In this island of theCyziceni is a well-wooded mountain calledArtace; and in front of this mountain lies an isle bearing the same name; and near by is a promontory called Melanus, which one passes on a coasting-voyage fromCyzicus toPriapus.
§ 12.8.12 ToPhrygia Epictetus belong the citiesAzani,Nacolia,Cotiaeium, Midaeium, andDorylaion, and alsoCadi, which, according to some writers, belongs toMysia.Mysia extends in the interior fromOlympene toPergamene, and to the plain ofCaicus, as it is called; and therefore it lies between Mt.Ida and Catacecaumene, which latter is by some calledMysian and by othersMaeonian.
§ 12.8.13 AbovePhrygia Epictetus towards the south is GreaterPhrygia, which leaves on the leftPessinus and the region ofOrcaorci andLycaonia, and on the right theMaeonians andLydians andCarians. InEpictetus arePhrygia "Paroreia," as it is called, and the part ofPhrygia that lies towardsPisidia, and the parts roundAmorium andEumeneia andSynnada, and thenApameia Cibotus, as it is called, andLaodiceia, which two are the largest of thePhrygian cities. And in the neighborhood of these are situated towns, and. . . . .,Aphrodisias,Colossae,Themisonium,Sanaus,Metropolis, andApollonias; but still farther away than these arePeltae,Tabae,Eucarpia, andLysias.
§ 12.8.14 NowPhrygiaParoreia has a kind of mountainous ridge extending from the east towards the west; and below it on either side lies a large plain. And there are cities near it: towards the north,Philomelium, and, on the other side, theAntiocheia nearPisidia, as it is called, the former lying wholly in a plain, whereas the latter is on a hill and has a colony of Romans. The latter was settled byMagnetans who lived near theMaeander River. The Romans set them free from their kings at the time when they gave over toEumenes the rest ofAsia this side theTaurus. Here there was also a priesthood of Men Arcaeus, which had a number of temple-slaves and sacredplaces, but the priesthood was destroyed after the death ofAmyntas by those who were sent thither as his inheritors.Synnada is not a large city; but there lies in front of it a plain planted with olives, about sixty stadia in circuit. And beyond it isDocimaea, a village, and also the quarry of "Synnadic" marble (so the Romans call it, though the natives call it "Docimite" or "Docimaean ). At first this quarry yielded only stones of small size, but on account of the present extravagance of the Romans great monolithic pillars are taken from it, which in their variety of colors are nearly like the alabastrite marble; so that, although the transportation of such heavy burdens to the sea is difficult, still, both pillars and slabs, remarkable for their size and beauty, are conveyed toRome.
§ 12.8.15 Apameia is a great emporium ofAsia, I meanAsia in the special sense of that term, and ranks second only toEphesus; for it is a common entrepot for the merchandise from bothItaly and Greece.Apameia is situated near the outlets of theMarsyas River, which flows through the middle of the city and has its sources in the city; it flows down to the suburbs, and then with violent and precipitate current joins theMaeander. The latter receives also another river, theOrgas, and traverses a level country with an easygoing and sluggish stream; and then, having by now become a large river, theMaeander flows for a time throughPhrygia and then forms the boundary betweenCaria andLydia at the Plain ofMaeander, as it is called, where its course is so exceedingly winding that everything winding is called "meandering." And at last it flows throughCaria itself, which is now occupied by theIonians, and then empties betweenMiletus andPriene. It rises in a hill calledCelaenae, on which there is a city which hears the same name as the hill; and it was fromCelaenae thatAntiochus Soter made the inhabitants move to the presentApameia, the city which he named after his motherApama, who was the daughter ofArtabazus and was given in marriage toSeleucus Nicator. And here is laid the scene of the myth ofOlympus and ofMarsyas and of the contest betweenMarsyas andApollo. Above is situated a lake which produces the reed that is suitable for the mouth-pieces of pipes; and it is from this lake that pour the sources of both theMarsyas and theMaeander.
§ 12.8.16 Laodiceia, though formerly small, grew large in our time and in that of our fathers, even though it had been damaged by siege in the time ofMithridates Eupator. However, it was the fertility of its territory and the prosperity of certain of its citizens that made it great: at firstHieron, who left to the people an inheritance of more than two thousand talents and adorned the city with many dedicated offerings, and laterZeno the rhetorician and his sonPolemon, the latter of whom, because of his bravery and honesty, was thought worthy even of a kingdom, at first byAntony and later byAugustus. The country roundLaodiceia producessheep that are excellent, not only for the softness of their wool, in which they surpass even theMilesian wool, but also for its raven-black color, so that the Laodiceians derive splendid revenue from it, as do also the neighboring Colosseni from the color which bears the same name. And here theCaprus River joins theMaeander, as does also theLycus, a river of good size, after which the city is called the "Laodiceia nearLycus." Above the city lies Mt.Cadmus, whence theLycus flows, as does also another river of the same name as the mountain. But theLycus flows under ground for the most part, and then, after emerging to the surface, unites with the other rivers, thus indicating that the country is full of holes and subject to earthquakes; for if any other country is subject to earthquakes,Laodiceia is, and so isCarura in the neighboring country.
§ 12.8.17 Carura forms a boundary betweenPhrygia andCaria. It is a village; and it has inns, and also fountains of boiling-hot waters, some in theMaeander River and some above its banks. Moreover, it is said that once, when a brothel-keeper had taken lodging in the inns along with a large number of women, an earthquake took place by night, and that he, together with all the women, disappeared from sight. And I might almost say that the whole of the territory in the neighborhood of theMaeander is subject to earthquakes and is undermined with both fire and water as far as the interior; for, beginning at the plains, all these conditions extend through that country to the Charonia, I mean theCharonium atHierapolis and that atAcharaca in Nysais and that nearMagnesia andMyus. In fact, the soil is not only friable and crumbly but is also full of salts and easy to burn out. And perhaps theMaeander is winding for this reason, because the stream often changes its course and, carrying down much silt, adds the silt at different times to different parts of the shore; however, it forcibly thrusts a part of the silt out to the high sea. And, in fact, by its deposits of silt, extending forty stadia, it has madePriene, which in earlier times was on the sea, an inland city.
§ 12.8.18 Phrygia "Catacecaumene," which is occupied byLydians andMysians, received its appellation for some such reason as follows: InPhiladelphia, the city near it, not even the walls are safe, but in a sense are shaken and caused to crack every day. And the inhabitants are continually attentive to the disturbances in the earth and plan all structures with a view to their occurrence. And, among the other cities,Apameia was often shaken by earthquakes before the expedition of KingMithridates, who, when he went over to that country and saw that the city was in ruins, gave a hundred talents for its restoration; and it is said that the same thing took place in the time ofAlexander. And this, in all probability, is whyPoseidon is worshipped in their country, even though it is in the interior, and why the city was calledCelaenae, that is, afterCelaenus, the son ofPoseidon byCelaeno, one of the daughters ofDanaus, or else because of the "blackness" of the stone, which resulted from the burn-outs. And the story of Mt.Sipylus and its ruin should not be put down as mythical, for in our own timesMagnesia, which lies at the foot of it, was laid low by earthquakes, at the time when not onlySardeis, but also the most famous of the other cities, were in many places seriously damaged. But the emperor restored them by contributing money; just as his father in earlier times, when the inhabitants ofTralleis suffered their misfortune (when the gymnasium and other parts of the city collapsed), restored their city, as he also restored the city of the Laodiceians.
§ 12.8.19 One should also hear the words of the ancient historians, as, for example, those ofXanthus, who wrote the history ofLydia, when he relates the strange changes that this country often underwent, to which I have already referred somewhere in a former part of my work. And in fact they make this the setting of the mythical story of theArimi and of the throes ofTyphon, calling it the Catacecaumene country. Also, they do not hesitate to suspect that the parts of the country between theMaeander River and theLydians are all of this nature, as well on account of the number of the lakes and rivers as on account of the numerous hollows in the earth. And the lake betweenLaodiceia andApameia, although like a sea, emits an effluvium that is filthy and of subterranean origin. And they say that lawsuits are brought against the godMaeander for altering the boundaries of the countries on his banks, that is, when the projecting elbows of land are swept away by him; and that when he is convicted the fines are paid from the tolls collected at the ferries.
§ 12.8.20 BetweenLaodiceia andCarura is a sanctuary ofMen Carus, as it is called, which is held in remarkable veneration. In my own time a great Herophileian school of medicine has been established byZeuxis, and afterwards carried on byAlexander Philalethes, just as in the time of our fathers the Erasistrateian school was established byHicesius, although at the present time the case is not at all the same as it used to be.
§ 12.8.21 Writers mention certainPhrygian tribes that are no longer to be seen; for example, theBerecyntes. AndAlcman says, "On the pipe he played the Cerbesian, aPhrygian melody. And a certain pit that emits deadly effluvia is spoken of as Cerbesian. This, indeed, is to be seen, but the people are no longer called Cerbesians.Aeschylus, in hisNiobe, confounds things that are different; for example,Niobe says that she will be mindful of the house ofTantalus,"those who have an altar of their paternalZeus on theIdaean hill; and again,"Sipylus in theIdaean land; andTantalus says, "I sow furrows that extend a ten days' journey, Berecyntian land, where is the site ofAdrasteia, and where both Mt.Ida and the whole of the Erechtheian plain resound with the bleatings and bellowings of flocks.
§ 13.1.1 TROAD
Let this, then, mark the boundary ofPhrygia. I shall now return again to thePropontis and the coast that comes next after theAesepus River, and follow the same order of description as before. The first country on this seaboard is theTroad, the fame of which, although it is left in ruins and in desolation, nevertheless prompts in writers no ordinary prolixity. With this fact in view, I should ask the pardon of my readers and appeal to them not to fasten the blame for the length of my discussion upon me rather than upon those who strongly yearn for knowledge of the things that are famous and ancient. And my discussion is further prolonged by the number of the peoples who have colonized the country, both Greeks and barbarians, and by the historians, who do not write the same things on the same subjects, nor always clearly either; among the first of these isHomer, who leaves us to guess about most things. And it is necessary for me to arbitrate between his statements and those of the others, after I shall first have described in a summary way the nature of the region in question.
§ 13.1.2 The seaboard of thePropontis, then, extends fromCyzicene and the region of theAesepus andGranicus Rivers as far asAbydus andSestus, whereas the parts roundIlium andTenedos and theTrojan Alexandreia extend fromAbydus toLectum. Accordingly, Mt.Ida, which extends down toLectum, lies above all these places. FromLectum to theCaicus River, and toCanae, as it is called, are the parts roundAssus andAdramyttium andAtarneus andPitane and theElaitic Gulf; and the island of theLesbians extends alongside, and opposite, all these places. Then come next the parts roundCyme, extending to theHermus andPhocaea, which latter constitutes the beginning ofIonia and the end ofAeolis. Such being the position of the places, the poet indicates in a general way that theTrojans held sway from the region of theAesepus River and that of the presentCyzicene to theCaicus River, their country being divided by dynasties into eight, or nine, portions, whereas the mass of their auxiliary forces are enumerated among the allies.
§ 13.1.3 But the later authors do not give the same boundaries, and they use their terms differently, thus allowing us several choices. The main cause of this difference has been the colonizations of the Greeks; less so, indeed, theIonian colonization, for it was farther distant from theTroad; but most of all that of theAeolians, for their colonies were scattered throughout the whole of the country fromCyzicene to theCaicus River, and they went on still farther to occupy the country between theCaicus andHermus Rivers. In fact, theAeolian colonization, they say, preceded theIonian colonization by four generations, but suffered delays and took a longer time; forOrestes, they say, was the first leader of the expedition, but he died inArcadia, and his sonPenthilus succeeded him and advanced as far asThrace sixty years after theTrojan War, about the time of the return of theHeracleidae to thePeloponnesus; and thenArchelaus the son ofPenthilus led theAeolian expedition across to the presentCyzicene nearDascylium; andGras, the youngest son ofArchelaus, advanced to theGranicus River, and, being better equipped, led the greater part of his army across toLesbos and occupied it. And they add that Cleues, son ofDorus, and Malaus, also descendants ofAgamemnon, had collected their army at about the same time asPenthilus, but that, whereas the fleet ofPenthilus had already crossed over fromThrace toAsia, Cleues and Malaus tarried a long time roundLocris and Mt. Phricius, and only later crossed over and founded the PhryconianCyme, so named after theLocrian mountain.
§ 13.1.4 TheAeolians, then, were scattered throughout the whole of that country which, as I have said, the poet calledTrojan. As for later authorities, some apply the name to allAeolis, but others to only a part of it; and some to the whole ofTroy, but others to only a part of it, not wholly agreeing with one another about anything. For instance, in reference to the places on thePropontis,Homer makes theTroad begin at theAesepus River, whereasEudoxus makes it begin atPriapus andArtace, the place on the island of theCyziceni that lies oppositePriapus, and thus contracts the limits; butDamastes contracts the country still more, making it begin atParium; and, in fact,Damastes prolongs theTroad toLectum, whereas other writers prolong it differently.Charon ofLampsacus diminishes its extent by three hundred stadia more, making it begin atPractius, for that is the distance fromParium toPractius; however, he prolongs it toAdramyttium.Scylax ofCaryanda makes it begin atAbydus; and similarlyEphorus says thatAeolis extends fromAbydus toCyme, while others define its extent differently.
§ 13.1.5 But the topography ofTroy, in the proper sense of the term, is best marked by the position of Mt.Ida, a lofty mountain which faces the west and the western sea but makes a slight bend also towards the north and the northern seaboard. 9 This latter is the seaboard of thePropontis, extending from the strait in the neighborhood ofAbydus to theAesepus River andCyzicene, whereas the western sea consists of the outerHellespont and theAegean Sea. Mt.Ida has many foothills, is like the scolopendra in shape, and is defined by its two extreme limits: by the promontory in the neighborhood ofZeleia and by the promontory calledLectum the former terminating in the interior slightly aboveCyzicene (in fact,Zeleia now belongs to theCyziceni), whereasLectum extends to theAegean Sea, being situated on the coasting voyage betweenTenedos andLesbos. When the poet says thatHypnos andHera "came to many-fountainedIda, mother of wild beasts, toLectum, where first the two left the sea," he describesLectum in accordance with the facts; for he rightly states thatLectum is a part of Mt.Ida, and thatLectum is the first place of disembarkation from the sea for those who would go up to Mt.Ida, and also that the mountain is "many-fountained," for there in particular the mountain is abundantly watered, as is shown by the large number of rivers there, "all the rivers that flow forth from theIdaean mountains to the sea,Rhesus andHeptaporus" and the following, all of which are named by the poet and are now to be seen by us. Now whileHomer thus describesLectum andZeleia as the outermost foothills of Mt.Ida in either direction, he also appropriately distinguishesGargarus from them as a summit, calling it "topmost." And indeed at the present time people point out in the upper parts ofIda a place calledGargarum, after which the presentGargara, anAeolian city, is named. Now betweenZeleia andLectum, beginning from thePropontis, are situated first the parts extending to the straits atAbydus, and then, outside thePropontis, the parts extending toLectum.
§ 13.1.6 On doublingLectum one encounters a large wide-open gulf, which is formed by Mt.Ida as it recedes fromLectum to the mainland, and byCanae, the promontory oppositeLectum on the other side. Some call it theIdaean Gulf, others theAdramyttene. On this gulf are the cities of theAeolians, extending to the outlets of theHermus River, as I have already said. I have stated in the earlier parts of my work that, as one sails fromByzantium towards the south, the route lies in a straight line, first toSestus andAbydus through the middle of thePropontis, and then along the coast ofAsia as far asCaria. It behooves one, then, to keep this supposition in mind as one listens to the following; and, if I speak of certain gulfs on the coast, one must think of the promontories which form them as lying in the same line, a meridian line, as it were.
§ 13.1.7 Now as forHomer's statements, those who have studied the subject more carefully conjecture from them that the whole of this coast became subject to theTrojans, and, though divided into nine dynasties, was under the sway ofPriam at the time of theTrojan War and was calledTroy. And this is clear from his detailed statements. For instance,Achilles and his army, seeing at the outset that the inhabitants ofIlium were enclosed by walls, tried to carry on the war outside and, by making raids all round, to take away from them all the surrounding places: "Twelve cities of men I have laid waste with my ships, and eleven, I declare, by land throughout the fertile land ofTroy. For by "Troy" he means the part of the mainland that was sacked by him; and, along with other places,Achilles also sacked the country oppositeLesbos in the neighborhood ofThebe andLyrnessus andPedasus, which last belonged to theLeleges, and also the country ofEurypylus the son ofTelephus."But what a man was that son ofTelephus who was slain by him with the bronze, that is, the heroEurypylus, slain byNeoptolemus. Now the poet says that these places were sacked, includingLesbos itself: "when he himself took well-builtLesbos; and "he sackedLyrnessus andPedasus; and "when he laid wasteLyrnessus and the walls ofThebe. It was atLyrnessus thatBriseis was taken captive, "whom he carried away fromLyrnessus; and it was at her capture, according to the poet, thatMynes andEpistrophus fell, as is shown by the lament ofBriseis overPatroclus: "thou wouldst not even, not even, let me weep when swiftAchilles slew my husband and sacked the city of divineMynes; for in callingLyrnessus "the city of divineMynes" the poet indicates thatMynes was dynast over it and that he fell in battle there. But it was atThebe thatChryseisas taken captive: "We went intoThebe, the sacred city ofEetion; and the poet says thatChryseisas part of the spoil brought from that place. Thence, too, cameAndromache: "Andromache, daughter of great heartedEetion;Eetion who dwelt 'neath woodedPlacus inThebe Hypoplacia, and was lord over the men ofCilicia. This is the secondTrojan dynasty after that ofMynes. And consistently with these facts writers think that the following statement ofAndromache,"Hector, woe is me! surely to one doom we were born, both of us — thou inTroy in the house ofPriam, but I atThebae, should not be interpreted strictly, I mean the words "thou inTroy, but I atThebae" (orThebe), but as a case of hyperbaton, meaning "both of us inTroy — thou in the house ofPriam, but I atThebae." The third dynasty was that of theLeleges, which was alsoTrojan: "OfAltes, who is lord over the war-lovingLeleges, by whose daughterPriam begotLycaon andPolydorus. And indeed those who are placed underHector in theCatalogue are calledTrojans: "TheTrojans were led by greatHector of the flashing helmet. And then come those underAeneias: "The Dardanians in turn were commanded by the valiant son ofAnchises and these, too, wereTrojans; at any rate, the poet says,"Aeneias, counsellor of theTrojans. And then come theLycians underPandarus, and these also he callsTrojans: "And those who dwelt inZeleia beneath the nethermost foot ofIda,Aphneii, who drink the dark water of theAesepus,Trojans; these in turn were commanded byPandarus, the glorious son ofLycaon. And this was the sixth dynasty. And indeed those who lived between theAesepus River andAbydus wereTrojans; for not only were the parts roundAbydus subject toAsius,"and they who dwelt aboutPercote andPractius and heldSestus andAbydus and goodlyArisbe — these in turn were commanded byAsius the son ofHyrtacus, but a son ofPriam lived atAbydus, pasturing mares, clearly his father's: "But he smote Democoon, the bastard son ofPriam, who had come atPriam's bidding from his swift mares; while inPercote a son ofHicetaon was pasturingkine, he likewise pasturingkine that belonged to no other: "And first he rebuked mightyMelanippus the son ofHicetaon, who until this time had been wont to feed thekine of shambling gait inPercote; so that this country would be a part of theTroad, as also the next country after it as far asAdrasteia, for the leaders of the latter were "the two sons ofMerops ofPercote. Accordingly, the people fromAbydus toAdrasteia were allTrojans, although they were divided into two groups, one underAsius and the other under the sons ofMerops, just asCilicia also was divided into two parts, theThebanCilicia and the Lyrnessian; but one might include in theLyrnessianCilicia the territory subject toEurypylus, which lay next to theLyrnessianCilicia. But thatPriam was ruler of these countries, one and all, is clearly indicated byAchilles' words toPriam: "And of thee, old sire, we hear that formerly thou wast blest; how of all that is enclosed byLesbos, out at sea, city ofMacar, and byPhrygia in the upland, and by the boundlessHellespont.
§ 13.1.8 Now such were the conditions at the time of theTrojan War, but all kinds of changes followed later; for the parts roundCyzicus as far as thePractius were colonized byPhrygians, and those roundAbydus byThracians; and still before these two byBebryces andDryopes. And the country that lies next was colonized by theTreres, themselves alsoThracians; and the Plain ofThebe byLydians, then calledMaeonians, and by the survivors of theMysians who had formerly been subject toTelephus andTeuthras. So then, since the poet combinesAeolis andTroy, and since theAeolians held possession of all the country from theHermus River to the seaboard atCyzicus, and founded their cities there, I too might not be guilty of describing them wrongly if I combinedAeolis, now properly so called, extending from theHermus River toLectum, and the country next after it, extending to theAesepus River; for in my detailed treatment of the two, I shall distinguish them again, setting forth, along with the facts as they now are, the statements ofHomer and others.
§ 13.1.9 According toHomer, then, theTroad begins after the city of theCyziceni and theAesepus River. And he so speaks of it: "And those who dwelt inZeleia beneath the nethermost foot ofIda,Aphneii, who drink the dark water of theAesepus,Trojans; these in turn were commanded byPandarus the glorious son ofLycaon. These he also callsLycians. And they are thought to have been called "Aphneii" after Lake "Aphnitis," for LakeDascylitis is also called by that name.
§ 13.1.10 NowZeleia is situated on the farthermost foothill of Mt.Ida, being one hundred and ninety stadia distant fromCyzicus and about eighty stadia from the nearest part of the sea, where theAesepus empties. And the poet mentions severally, in continuous order, the places that lie along the coast after theAesepus River: "And they who heldAdrasteia and the land ofApaesus, and heldPityeia and the steep mountain ofTereia — these were led byAdrastus andAmphius of the linen corslet, the two sons ofMerops ofPercote. These places lie belowZeleia, but they are occupied byCyziceni andPriapeni even as far as the coast. Now nearZeleia is the Tarsius River, which is crossed twenty times by the same road, like theHeptaporus River, which is mentioned by the poet. And the river that flows fromNicomedeia intoNicaea is crossed twenty-four times, and the river that flows fromPholoe into theEleian country is crossed many times . . . Scarthon twenty-five times, and the river that flows from the country of theCoscinii intoAlabanda is crossed many times, and the river that flows fromTyana intoSoli through theTaurus is crossed seventy-five times.
§ 13.1.11 About . . . stadia above the outlet of theAesepus River is a hill, where is shown the tomb ofMemnon, son ofTithonus; and near by is the village ofMemnon. TheGranicus River flows between theAesepus River andPriapus, mostly through the plain ofAdrasteia, whereAlexander utterly defeated the satraps ofDareius in battle, and gained the whole of the country inside theTaurus and theEuphrates River. And on theGranicus was situated the citySidene, with a large territory of the same name; but it is now in ruins. On the boundary between the territory ofCyzicus and that ofPriapus is a place calledHarpagia, from which, according to some writers of myths,Ganymede was snatched, though others say that he was snatched in the neighborhood of the Dardanian Promontory, nearDardanus.
§ 13.1.12 Priapus is a city on the sea, and also a harbor. Some say that it was founded byMilesians, who at the same time also colonizedAbydus andProconnesus, whereas others say that it was founded byCyziceni. It was named afterPriapus, who was worshipped there; then his worship was transferred thither fromOrneae nearCorinth, or else the inhabitants felt an impulse to worship the god because he was called the son ofDionysus and a nymph; for their country is abundantly supplied with the vine, both theirs and the countries which border next upon it, I mean those of thePariani and theLampsaceni. At any rate,Xerxes gaveLampsacus toThemistocles to supply him with wine. But it was by people of later times thatPriapus was declared a god, for evenHesiod does not know of him; and he resembles theAttic deitiesOrthanes,Conisalus,Tychon, and others like them.
§ 13.1.13 This country was called "Adrasteia" and "Plain ofAdrasteia," in accordance with a custom whereby people gave two names to the same place, as "Thebe" and "Plain ofThebe," and "Mygdonia" and "Plain ofMygdonia." According toCallisthenes, among others,Adrasteia was named after KingAdrastus, who was the first to found a sanctuary ofNemesis. Now the city is situated betweenPriapus andParium; and it has below it a plain that is named after it, in which there was an oracle ofApolloActaeus andArtemis. . . . But when the sanctuary was torn down, the whole of its furnishings and stonework were transported toParium, where was built an altar, the work of Hermocreon, very remarkable for its size and beauty; but the oracle was abolished like that atZeleia. Here, however, there is no sanctuary ofAdrasteia, nor yet ofNemesis, to be seen, although there is a sanctuary ofAdrasteia nearCyzicus.Antimachus says as follows: "There is a great goddessNemesis, who has obtained as her portion all these things from the Blessed. Adrestus was the first to build an altar to her beside the stream of theAesepus River, where she is worshipped under the name ofAdresteia.
§ 13.1.14 The cityParium is situated on the sea; it has a larger harbor thanPriapus, and its territory has been increased at the expense ofPriapus; for theParians curried favor with theAttalic kings, to whom the territory ofPriapus was subject, and by their permission cut off for themselves a large part of that territory. Here is told the mythical story that theOphiogeneis are akin to theserpent tribe: and they say that the males of theOphiogeneis cure snake-bitten people by continuous stroking, after the manner of enchanters, first transferring the livid color to their own bodies and then stopping both the inflammation and the pain. According to the myth, the original founder of the tribe, a certain hero, changed from aserpent into a man. Perhaps he was one of the LibyanPsylli, whose power persisted in his tribe for a certain time.Parium was founded byMilesians andErythraeans andParians.
§ 13.1.15 Pitya is in Pityus in the territory ofParium, lying below a pine covered mountain; and it lies betweenParium andPriapus in the direction of Linum, a place on the seashore, where are caught the Linusian snails, the best in the world.
§ 13.1.16 On the coasting voyage fromParium toPriapus lie both the oldProconnesus and the presentProconnesus, the latter having a city and also a great quarry of white marble that is very highly commended; at any rate, the most beautiful works of art in the cities of that part of the world, and especially those inCyzicus, are made of this marble.Aristeas was aProconnesian — the author of theArimaspian Epic, as it is called — a charlatan if ever there was one.
§ 13.1.17 As for "the mountain ofTereia," some say that it is the range of mountains in Peirossus which are occupied by theCyziceni and are adjacent toZeleia, where a royal hunting ground was arranged by theLydians, and later by thePersians; but others point out a hill forty stadia fromLampsacus, on which there is a sanctuary sacred to theMother of the Gods, entitled "Tereia's" sanctuary.
§ 13.1.18 Lampsacus, also, is a city on the sea, a notable city with a good harbor, and still flourishing, likeAbydus. It is about one hundred and seventy stadia distant fromAbydus; and it was formerly calledPityussa, as also, it is said, wasChios. On the opposite shore of theChersonesus isCallipolis, a small town. It is on the headland and runs far out towardsAsia in the direction of the city of theLampsaceni, so that the passage across toAsia from it is no more than forty stadia.
§ 13.1.19 In the interval betweenLampsacus andParium lay a city and river calledPaesus; but the city is in ruins. ThePaeseni changed their abode toLampsacus, they too being colonists from theMilesians, like theLampsaceni. But the poet refers to the place in two ways, at one time adding the first syllable, "and the land ofApaesus, and at another omitting it, "a man of many possessions, who dwelt inPaesus. And the river is now spelled in the latter way.Colonae, which lies aboveLampsacus in the interior ofLampsacene, is also a colony of theMilesians; and there is anotherColonae on the outerHellespontine sea, which is one hundred and forty stadia distant fromIlium and is said to be the birthplace ofCycnus.Anaximenes says that there are also places in theErythraean territory and inPhocis and inThessaly that are called Colonae. And there is an Iliocolone in the territory ofParium. In the territory ofLampsacus is a place calledGergithium which is rich in vines; and there was also a city calledGergitha fromGergithes in the territory ofCyme, for here too there was a city calledGergithes, in the feminine plural, the birthplace ofCephalon theGergithian. And still today a place called Gergithium is pointed out in the territory ofCyme nearLarissa. NowNeoptolemus, called the Glossographer, a notable man, was fromParium; andCharon the historian andAdeimantus andAnaximenes the rhetorician andMetrodorus the comrade ofEpicurus were fromLampsacus; andEpicurus himself was in a sense a Lampsacenian, having lived inLampsacus and having been on intimate terms with the ablest men of that city,Idomeneus andLeonteus and their followers. It was from here thatAgrippa transported the Fallen Lion, a work ofLysippus; and he dedicated it in the sacred precinct (alsos) between the Lake and the Euripus [in the Campus Martius].
§ 13.1.20 AfterLampsacus comeAbydus and the intervening places of which the poet, who comprises with them the territory ofLampsacus and part of the territory ofParium (for these two cities were not yet in existence in theTrojan times), speaks as follows: "And those who dwelt aboutPercote andPractius, and heldSestus andAbydus and goodlyArisbe — these in turn were led byAsius, the son ofHyrtacus, . . . who was brought by his sorrelhorses fromArisbe, from the RiverSelleeis. In speaking thus, the poet seems to set forthArisbe, whence he saysAsius came, as the royal residence ofAsius: "who was brought by hishorses fromArisbe, from the RiverSelleeis. But these places are so obscure that even investigators do not agree about them, except that they are in the neighborhood ofAbydus andLampsacus andParium, and that the oldPercote, the site, underwent a change of name.
§ 13.1.21 Of the rivers, theSelleeis flows nearArisbe, as the poet says, if it be true thatAsius came both fromArisbe and from theSelleeis River. The RiverPractius is indeed in existence, but no city of that name is to be found, as some have wrongly thought. This river also flows betweenAbydus andLampsacus. Accordingly, the words, "and dwelt aboutPractius, should be interpreted as applying to a river, as should also those other words, "and those who dwelt beside the goodlyCephisus River, and "those who had their famed estates about theParthenius River. There was also a cityArisba inLesbos, whose territory is occupied by theMethymnaeans. And there is anArisbus River inThrace, as I have said before, near which are situated the ThracianCebrenians. There are many names common to theThracians and theTrojans; for example, there areThracians called Scaeans, and a riverScaeus, and a Scaean Wall, and atTroy theScaean Gates. And there are ThracianXanthians, and in theTroad a riverXanthus. And in theTroad there is a riverArisbus which empties into theHebrus, as also a cityArisbe. And there was a riverRhesus in theTroad; and there was aRhesus who was the king of theThracians. And there is also, of the same name as thisAsius, anotherAsius inHomer,"who was maternal uncle to horse-tamingHector, and own brother toHecabe, but son ofDymas, who dwelt inPhrygia by the streams of theSangarius.
§ 13.1.22 Abydus was founded byMilesians, being founded by permission ofGyges, king of theLydians; for this district and the whole of theTroad were under his sway; and there is a promontory named Gygas nearDardanus.Abydus lies at the mouth of thePropontis and theHellespont; and it is equidistant fromLampsacus andIlium, about one hundred and seventy stadia. Here, separating Europe andAsia, is theHeptastadium, which was bridged byXerxes. The European promontory that forms the narrows at the place of the bridge is called theChersonesus because of its shape. And the place of the bridge lies oppositeAbydus.Sestus is the best of the cities in theChersonesus; and, on account of its proximity toAbydus, it was assigned to the same governor asAbydus in the times when governorships had not yet been delimited by continents. Now althoughAbydus andSestus are about thirty stadia distant from one another from harbor to harbor, yet the line of the bridge across the strait is short, being drawn at an angle to that between the two cities, that is, from a point nearer thanAbydus to thePropontis on theAbydus side to a point farther away from thePropontis on theSestus side. NearSestus is a place named Apobathra, where the pontoon-bridge was attached to the shore.Sestus lies farther in towards thePropontis, farther up the stream that flows out of thePropontis. It is therefore easier to cross over fromSestus, first coasting a short distance to the Tower ofHero and then letting the ships make the passage across by the help of the current. But those who cross over fromAbydus must first follow the coast in the opposite direction about eight stadia to a tower oppositeSestus, and then sail across obliquely and thus not have to meet the full force of the current. After theTrojan WarAbydus was the home ofThracians, and then ofMilesians. But when the cities were burned byDareius, father ofXerxes, I mean the cities on thePropontis,Abydus shared in the same misfortune. He burned them because he had learned after his return from his attack upon theScythians that the nomads were making preparations to cross the strait and attack him to avenge their sufferings, and was afraid that the cities would provide means for the passage of their army. And this too, in addition to the other changes and to the lapse of time, is a cause of the confusion into which the topography of the country has fallen. As forSestus and theChersonesus in general, I have already spoken of them in my description of the region ofThrace.Theopompus says thatSestus is small but well fortified, and that it is connected with its harbor by a double wall of two plethra, and that for this reason, as also on account of the current, it is mistress of the passage.
§ 13.1.23 Above the territory of theAbydeni, in theTroad, liesAstyra. This city, which is in ruins, now belongs to theAbydeni, but in earlier times it was independent and had gold mines. These mines are now scant, being used up, like those on Mt.Tmolus in the neighborhood of thePactolus River. FromAbydus to theAesepus the distance is said to be about seven hundred stadia, but less by straight sailing.
§ 13.1.24 OutsideAbydus lies the territory ofIlium — the parts on the shore extending toLectum, and the places in theTrojan Plain, and the parts on the side of Mt.Ida that were subject toAeneias. The poet names these last parts in two ways, at one time saying as follows: "The Dardanii in turn were led by the valiant son ofAnchises, calling the inhabitants "Dardanii"; and at another time, "Dardani": "TheTrojans andLycians and Dardani that fight in close combat. And it is reasonable to suppose that this was in ancient times.the site of theDardania mentioned by the poet when he says, "At firstDardanus was begotten byZeus the cloud-gatherer, and he foundedDardania; for at the present time there is not so much as a trace of a city preserved in that territory.
§ 13.1.25 Plato conjectures, however, that after the time of the floods three kinds of civilization were formed: the first, that on the mountain tops, which was simple and wild, when men were in fear of the waters which still deeply covered the plains; the second, that on the foothills, when men were now gradually taking courage because the plains were beginning to be relieved of the waters; and the third, that in the plains. One might speak equally of a fourth and fifth, or even more, but last of all that on the seacoast and in the islands, when men had been finally released from all such fear; for the greater or less courage they took in approaching the sea would indicate several different stages of civilization and manners, first as in the case of the qualities of goodness and wildness, which in some way further served as a foundation for the milder qualities in the second stage. But in the second stage also there is a difference to be noted, I mean between the rustic and semi-rustic and civilized qualities; and, beginning with these last qualities, the gradual assumption of new names ended in the polite and highest culture, in accordance with the change of manners for the better along with the changes in places of abode and in modes of life. Now these differences, according toPlato, are suggested by the poet, who sets forth as an example of the first stage of civilization the life of theCyclopes, who lived on uncultivated fruits and occupied the mountain tops, living in caves: "but all these things," he says, "grow unsown and unploughed" for them. . . . "And they have no assemblies for council, nor appointed laws, but they dwell on the tops of high mountains in hollow caves, and each is lawgiver to his children and his wives. And as an example of the second stage, the life in the time ofDardanus, who "foundedDardania; for not yet had sacredIlios been builded to be a city of mortal men, but they were living on the foothills of many-fountainedIda. And of the third stage, the life in the plains in the time ofIlus; for he is the traditional founder ofIlium, and it was from him that the city took its name. And it is reasonable to suppose, also, that he was buried in the middle of the plain for this reason — that he was the first to take up his abode in the plains: "And they sped past the tomb of ancientIlus, son ofDardanus, through the middle of the plain past the wild fig tree. Yet evenIlus did not have full courage, for he did not found the city at the place where it now is, but about thirty stadia higher up towards the east, and towards Mt.Ida andDardania, at the place now called "Village of theIlians." But the people of the presentIlium, being fond of glory and wishing to show that theirIlium was the ancient city, have offered a troublesome argument to those who base their evidence on the poetry ofHomer, for theirIlium does not appear to have been the Homeric city. Other inquirers also find that the city changed its site several times, but at last settled permanently where it now is at about the time ofCroesus. I take for granted, then, that such removals into the parts lower down, which took place in those times, indicate different stages in modes of life and civilization; but this must be further investigated at another time.
§ 13.1.26 It is said that the city of the presentIlians was for a time a mere village, having a small and cheap sanctuary ofAthena, but that whenAlexander went up there after his victory at theGranicus River he adorned the sanctuary with votive offerings, gave the village the title of city, and ordered those in charge to improve it with buildings, and that he adjudged it free and exempt from tribute; and that later, after the overthrow of thePersians, he sent down a kindly letter to the place, promising to make a great city of it, and to build a magnificent sanctuary, and to proclaim sacred games. But after his deathLysimachus devoted special attention to the city, and built a temple there and surrounded the city with a wall about forty stadia in circuit, and also incorporated into it the surrounding cities, which were now old and in bad plight. At that time he had already devoted attention toAlexandreia, which had indeed already been founded byAntigonus and called Antigonia, but had changed its name, for it was thought to be a pious thing for the successors ofAlexander to found cities bearing his name before they founded cities bearing their own. And indeed the city endured and grew, and at present it not only has received a colony of Romans but is one of the notable cities of the world.
§ 13.1.27 Also theIlium of today was a kind of village-city when the Romans first set foot onAsia and expelledAntiochus the Great from the country this side ofTaurus. At any rate,Demetrius ofScepsis says that, when as a lad he visited the city about that time, he found the settlement so neglected that the buildings did not so much as have tiled roofs. AndHegesianax says that when theGalatae crossed over from Europe they needed a stronghold and went up into the city for that reason, but left it at once because of its lack of walls. But later it was greatly improved. And then it was ruined again by the Romans underFimbria, who took it by siege in the course of theMithridatic war.Fimbria had been sent as quaestor withValerius Flaccus the consul when the latter was appointed to the command againstMithridates; butFimbria raised a mutiny and slew the consul in the neighborhood ofBithynia [86 BCE], and was himself set up as lord of the army; and when he advanced toIlium, the Ilians would not admit him, as being a brigand, and therefore he applied force and captured the place on the eleventh day. And when he boasted that he himself had overpowered on the eleventh day the city whichAgamemnon had only with difficulty captured in the tenth year, although the latter had with him on his expedition the fleet of a thousand vessels and the whole of Greece, one of theIlians said: "Yes, for the city's champion was noHector." NowSulla came over and overthrewFimbria, and on terms of agreement sentMithridates away to his homeland, but he also consoled theIlians by numerous improvements. In my time, however, the deifiedCaesar was far more thoughtful of them, at the same time also emulating the example ofAlexander; forAlexander set out to provide for them on the basis of a renewal of ancient kinship, and also because at the same time he was fond ofHomer; at any rate, we are told of a recension of the poetry ofHomer, the Recension of the Casket, as it is called, whichAlexander, along withCallisthenes andAnaxarchus, perused and to a certain extent annotated, and then deposited in a richly wrought casket which he had found amongst thePersian treasures. Accordingly, it was due both to his zeal for the poet and to his descent from theAeacidae who reigned as kings of theMolossians — where, as we are also told,Andromache, who had been the wife ofHector, reigned as queen — thatAlexander was kindly disposed towards theIlians. ButCaesar, not only being fond ofAlexander, but also having better known evidences of kinship with the Ilians, felt encouraged to bestow kindness upon them with all the zest of youth: better known evidences, first, because he was a Roman, and because the Romans believeAeneias to have been their original founder; and secondly, because the nameIulius was derived from that of a certainIulus who was one of his ancestors, and thisIulus got his appellation from theIulus who was one of the descendants ofAeneas.Caesar therefore allotted territory to them end also helped them to preserve their freedom and their immunity from taxation; and to this day they remain in possession of these favors. But that this is not the site of the ancientIlium, if one considers the matter in accordance withHomer's account, is inferred from the following considerations. But first I must give a general description of the region in question, beginning at that point on the coast where I left off.
§ 13.1.28 AfterAbydus, then, comes the Dardanian Promontory, which I mentioned a little while ago, and also the cityDardanus, which is seventy stadia distant fromAbydus. Between the two places empties theRhodius River, opposite which, in theChersonesus, isCynos Sema, which is said to be the tomb ofHecabe. But some say that theRhodius empties into theAesepus. This too is one of the rivers mentioned by the poet: "Rhesus,Heptaporus,Caresus, andRhodius.Dardanus was an ancient settlement, but it was held in such contempt that it was oftentimes transplanted by some of the kings toAbydus and then resettled again by others on the ancient site. It was here thatCornelius Sulla, the Roman commander, andMithridates surnamed Eupator met and arranged the terms for the conclusion of the war.
§ 13.1.29 Near by isOphrynium, near which, in a conspicuous place, is the sacred precinct ofHector. And next comes the Lake of Pteleos.
§ 13.1.30 Then comeRhoeteium, a city situated on a hill, and, adjacent toRhoeteium, a low-lying shore, on which are a tomb and sanctuary ofAias, and also a statue of him, which was taken up byAntony and carried of toEgypt; butAugustus Caesar gave it back again to theRhoeteians, just as he gave back other statues to their owners. ForAntony took away the finest dedications from the most famous sanctuaries, to gratify theEgyptian woman, butAugustus gave them back to the gods.
§ 13.1.31 AfterRhoeteium comeSigeium, a destroyed city, and the Naval Station and theharbor of the Achaeans and the Achaean Camp andStomalimne, as it is called, and the outlets of theScamander; for after theSimoeis and theScamander meet in the plain, they carry down great quantities of alluvium, silt up the coat, and form a blind mouth, lagoons, and marshes. Opposite the Sigeian Promontory on theChersonesus areEleussa and the sanctuary ofProtesilaus, both of which I have mentioned in my description ofThrace.
§ 13.1.32 The length of this coast, I mean on a straight voyage fromRhoeteium toSigeium, and the monument ofAchilles, is sixty stadia; and the whole of it lies belowIlium, not only the presentIlium, from which, at theharbor of the Achaeans, it is about twelve stadia distant, but also the earlierIlium, which lies thirty stadia farther inland in the direction of Mt.Ida. Now there are a sanctuary and a monument ofAchilles nearSigeium, as also monuments ofPatroclus andAntilochus; and theIlians offer sacrifices to all four heroes, both to these and toAias. But they do not honorHeracles, giving as their reason his sacking of the city. But one might say that, althoughHeracles did sack it, yet he sacked it in such a way as still to leave it a city, even though damaged, for those who were later to sack it utterly; and for this reason the poet states it thus: "He sacked the city ofIlios and widowed her streets; for "widowed" means a loss of the male population, not a complete annihilation. But the others, whom they think fit to worship with sacrifices and to honor as gods, completely annihilated the city. Perhaps they might give as their reason for this that these waged a just war, whereasHeracles waged an unjust one "on account of thehorses ofLaomedon." But writers set over against this reason the myth that it was not on account of thehorses but of the reward offered forHesione and the sea-monster. But let us disregard these reasons, for they end merely in controversies about myths. And perhaps we fail to notice certain more credible reasons why it occurred to theIlians to honor some and not others. And it appears that the poet, in what he says aboutHeracles, represents the city as small, if it be true that "with only six ships and fewer men he sacked the city ofIlium. And it is clearly shown by this statement thatPriam became great and king of kings from a small beginning, as I have said before. Advancing a little farther along this shore, one comes to theAchaeium, where begins the part of the mainland that belongs toTenedos.
§ 13.1.33 Such, are the places on the sea. Above these lies theTrojan Plain, which extends inland for many stadia in the direction of the east as far as Mt.Ida. The part of this plain alongside the mountain is narrow, extending on one side towards the south as far as the region ofScepsis, and on the other towards the north as far as theLycians ofZeleia. This is the country which the poet makes subject toAeneias and the sons ofAntenor, calling itDardania; and below this isCebrenia, which is level for the most part and lies approximately parallel toDardania; and in it there was once a city calledCebrene.Demetrius suspects that the territory ofIlium subject toHector extended inland from the naval station as far asCebrenia, for he says that the tomb ofAlexander is pointed out there, as also that ofOinone, who, according to historians, had been the wife ofAlexander before he carried offHelen. And, he continues, the poet mentionsCebriones, bastard son of gloriousPriam, after whom, as one may suppose, the country was named — or the city too, which is more plausible; andCebrenia extends as far as the territory ofScepsis; and theScamander, which flows between, is the boundary; and theCebreni andScepsians were always hostile to one another and at war untilAntigonus settled both peoples together in Antigonia, as it was then called, orAlexandreia, as it is now called; now theCebreni, he adds, remained with the rest inAlexandreia, but theScepsians, by permission ofLysimachus, went back to their homeland.
§ 13.1.34 From the mountain range ofIda in this region, according toDemetrius, two spurs extend to the sea, one straight toRhoeteium and the other straight toSigeium, forming together a semicircular line, and they end in the plain at the same distance from the sea as the presentIlium; thisIlium, accordingly, lies between the ends of the two spurs mentioned, whereas the old settlement lies between their beginnings; and, he adds, the spurs include both the Simoeisian Plain, through which theSimoeis runs, and the Scamandrian Plain, through which theScamander flows. This is called theTrojan Plain in the special sense of the term; and here it is that the poet represents most of the fights as taking place, for it is wider; and here it is that we see pointed out the places named by the poetErineus, the tomb ofAesyetes,Batieia, and the monument ofIlus. TheScamander andSimoeis Rivers, after running near toSigeium andRhoeteium respectively, meet a little in front of the presentIlium, and then issue towardsSigeium and formStomalimne, as it is called. The two plains above mentioned are separated from each other by a great neck of land which runs in a straight line between the aforesaid spurs, starting from the presentIlium, with which it is connected, and stretches as far asCebrenia and, along with the spur's on either side, forms a complete letter .
§ 13.1.35 A little above this is the Village of theIlians, where the ancientIlium is thought to have been situated in earlier times, at a distance of thirty stadia from the present city. And ten stadia above the Village of theIlians isCallicolone, a hill, past which, at a distance of five stadia, flows theSimoeis. It therefore becomes easy to understand, first, the reference toAres: "And over against her leapedAres, like unto a dreadful whirlwind, in shrill tones cheering theTrojans from the topmost part of the city, and now again as he sped alongsideSimoeis o'erCallicolone; for if the battle was fought on the Scamandrian Plain, it is plausible thatAres should at one time shout his cheers from the acropolis and at another from the region near theSimoeis andCallicolone, up to which, in all probability, the battle would have extended. But sinceCallicolone is forty stadia distant from the present Ilium, for what useful purpose would the poet have taken in places so far away that the line of battle could not have reached them? Again, the words, "And towardsThymbra fell the lot of theLycians, are more suitable to the ancient settlement, for the plain ofThymbra is near it, as also theThymbrius River, which flows through the plain and empties into theScamander at the sanctuary of theThymbraeanApollo, butThymbra is actually fifty stadia distant from the presentIlium, And again,Erineus, a place that is rugged and full of wild fig trees, lies at the foot of the ancient site, so thatAndromache might appropriately say, "Stay thy host besideErineus, where best the city can be approached and the wall scaled, butErineus stands at a considerable distance from the presentIlium. Further, a little belowErineus is Phegus, in reference to whichAchilles says, "But so long as I was carrying on war amid the Achaeans,Hector was unwilling to rouse battle away from the wall, but would come only as far as theScaean Gates and Phegus.
§ 13.1.36 However, the Naustathmos (Naval Station), still now so called, is so near the presentIlium that one might reasonably wonder at the witlessness of the Greeks and the faintheartedness of theTrojans; witlessness, if the Greeks kept the Naustathmos unwalled for so long a time, when they were near to the city and to so great a multitude, both that in the city and that of the allies; forHomer says that the wall had only recently been built (or else it was not built at all, but fabricated and then abolished by the poet, asAristotle says); and faintheartedness, if theTrojans, when the wall was built, could besiege it and break into the Naustathmos itself and attack the ships, yet did not have the courage to march up and besiege the station when it was still unwalled and only a slight distance away; for it is nearSigeium, and theScamander empties near it, at a distance of only twenty stadia fromIlium. But if one shall say that theharbor of the Achaeans, as it is now called, is the Naustathmos, he will be speaking of a place that is still closer, only about twelve stadia distant from the city, even if one includes the plain by the sea, because the whole of this plain is a deposit of the rivers — I mean the plain by the sea in front of the city; so that, if the distance between the sea and the city is now twelve stadia, it must have been no more than half as great at that time. Further, the feigned story told byOdysseus toEumaeus clearly indicates that the distance from the Naustathmos to the city is great, for after saying, "as when we led our ambush beneath the walls ofTroy, he adds a little below, "for we went very far from the ships. And spies are sent forth to find whether theTrojans will stay by the ships "far away," far separated from their own walls, "or will withdraw again to the city. AndPolydamas says, "on both sides, friends, bethink ye well, for I, on my own part, bid you now to go to the city; afar from the walls are we.Demetrius cites alsoHestiaea ofAlexandreia as a witness, a woman who wrote a work onHomer'sIliad and inquired whether the war took place round the presentIlium and theTrojan Plain, which latter the poet places between the city and the sea; for, she says, the plain now to be seen in front of the presentIlium is a later deposit of the rivers.
§ 13.1.37 Again,Polites,"who was wont to sit as a sentinel of theTrojans, trusting in his fleetness of foot, on the topmost part of the barrow of agedAesyetes, was doing a foolish thing, for even though he sat on the topmost part of it, still he might have kept watch from the much greater height of the acropolis, at approximately the same distance, with no need of fleetness of foot for safety; for the barrow ofAesyetes now pointed out is five stadia distant on the road toAlexandreia. Neither is the "clear running space" ofHector round the city easy to understand, for the presentIlium has no "clear running space," on account of the ridge that joins it. The ancient city, however, has a "clear running space" round it.
§ 13.1.38 But no trace of the ancient city survives; and naturally so, for while the cities all round it were sacked, but not completely destroyed, yet that city was so utterly demolished that all the stones were taken from it to rebuild the others. At any rate, Archaeanax ofMitylene is said to have built a wall roundSigeium with stones taken from there.Sigeium was seized byAthenians underPhrynon theOlympian victor, although theLesbians laid claim to almost the whole of theTroad. Most of the settlements in theTroad belong, in fact, to theLesbians, and some endure to this day, while others have disappeared.Pittacus ofMitylene, one of theSeven Wise Men, as they are called, sailed againstPhrynon the general and for a time carried on the war, but with poor management and ill consequences. It was at this time that the poetAlcaeus says that he himself, being sorely pressed in a certain battle, threw away his arms. He addresses his account of it to a certain herald, whom he had bidden to report to the people at home that "Alcaeus is safe, but his arms have been hung up as an offering toAres by theAttic army in the sanctuary ofAthenaGlaucopis." But later, on being challenged to single combat byPhrynon, he took up his fishing-tackle, ran to meet him, entangled him in his fishing net, and stabbed and slew him with trident and dagger. But since the war still went on,Periander was chosen by both sides as arbiter and ended it.
§ 13.1.39 Demetrius says thatTimaeus falsifies when he informs us thatPeriander fortifiedAchilleium against theAthenians with stones fromIlium, to help the army ofPittacus; for this place, he says, was indeed fortified by theMitylenaeans againstSigeium, though not with such stones as those, nor yet byPeriander. For how could the opponent of theAthenians have been chosen as arbiter?Achilleium is the place where stands the monument ofAchilles and is only a small settlement.Sigeium, also, has been razed to the ground by theIlians, because of its disobedience; for the whole of the coast as far asDardanus was later subject to theIlians and is now subject to them. In ancient times the most of it was subject to theAeolians, so thatEphorus does not hesitate to apply the nameAeolis to the whole of the coast fromAbydus toCyme.Thucydides says thatTroy was taken away from theMitylenaeans by theAthenians in the Pachetian part of thePeloponnesian War.
§ 13.1.40 The presentIlians further tell us that the city was, in fact, not completely wiped out at its capture by theAchaeans and that it was never even deserted. At any rate theLocrian maidens, beginning a little later, were sent every year. But this too is non-Homeric, forHomer knows not of the violation ofCassandra, but he says that she was a maiden at about that time, "for he slewOthryoneus, a sojourner inTroy fromCabesus, who had but recently come, following after the rumor of war, and he was askingCassandra in marriage, the comeliest of the daughters ofPriam, without gifts of wooing, and yet he does not so much as mention any violation of her or say that the destruction ofAias in the shipwreck took place because of the wrath ofAthena or any such cause; instead, he speaks ofAias as "hated byAthena," in accordance with her general hatred (for since they one and all committed sacrilege against her sanctuary, she was angry at them all), but says that he was destroyed byPoseidon because of his boastful speech. But the fact is that theLocrian maidens were first sent when thePersians were already in power.
§ 13.1.41 So theIlians tell us, butHomer expressly states that the city was wiped out: "The day shall come when sacredIlios shall perish; and "surely we have utterly destroyed the steep city ofPriam, "by means of counsels and persuasiveness; "and in the tenth year the city ofPriam was destroyed. And other such evidences of the same thing are set forth; for example, that the wooden image ofAthena now to be seen stands upright, whereasHomer clearly indicates that it was sitting, for orders are given to "put" the robe" uponAthena's knees Hom. Il. 6.(compare "that never should there sit upon his knees a dear child). For it is better to interpret it in this way than, as some do, to interpret it as meaning "to put the robe 'beside' her knees," comparing the words "and she sits upon the hearth in the light of the fire, which they take to mean "beside" the hearth. For how could one conceive of the dedication of a robe "beside" the knees? Moreover, others, changing the accent on γούνασιν accenting it γουνάσιν, like θυιάσιν (in whichever of two ways they interpret it), talk on endlessly. . . There are to be seen many of the ancient wooden images ofAthena in a sitting posture, as, for example, inPhocaea,Massalia,Rome,Chios, and several other places. Also the more recent writers agree that the city was wiped out, among whom is the oratorLycurgus, who, in mentioning the city of theIlians, says: "Who has not heard that once for all it was razed to the ground by the Greeks, and is uninhabited?"
§ 13.1.42 It is surmised that those who later thought of refounding the city regarded that site as ill-omened, either on account of its misfortune or also because, in accordance with an ancient custom, a curse had been laid upon it byAgamemnon, just asCroesus, after he destroyedSidene, whither the tyrantGlaucias had fled for refuge, put a curse on any persons who should re-fortify the site; and that they therefore avoided that place and fortified another. Now theAstypalaeans who held possession ofRhoeteium were the first to settle Polium, now called Polisma, on theSimoeis River, but not on a well protected site; and therefore it was soon demolished. It was in the time of theLydians that the present settlement was founded, as also the sanctuary. It was not a city, however, and it was only after many ages, and gradually, as I have said, that it increased. ButHellanicus, to gratify theIlians, "such is the spirit of that man," agrees with them that the presentIlium is the same as the ancient. When the city was wiped out, its territory was divided up between the inhabitants ofSigeium andRhoeteium and several other neighboring peoples, but the territory was given back when the place was refounded.
§ 13.1.43 The epithet "many fountained" is thought to be especially applied to Mt.Ida because of the great number of rivers that flow from it, particularly in those parts below it where lie the territory ofDardanus — even as far asScepsis — and the region ofIlium.Demetrius, who as a native was acquainted with the topography of the country, says in one place as follows: There is a hill ofIda called Cotylus; and this hill lies about one hundred and twenty stadia aboveScepsis; and from it flow theScamander, theGranicus, and theAesepus, the two latter flowing towards the north and thePropontis and constituting a collection of streams from several sources, while theScamander flows towards the west from only one source; and all the sources lie close together, being comprised within a distance of twenty stadia; but the end of theAesepus stands farthest away from its beginning, approximately five hundred stadia. But it is a matter of argument what the poet means when he says: "And they came to the two fair-flowing streams, where well up the two springs of eddyingScamander; for the one flows with soft water (that is, with "hot water"), and the poet adds, "and round about a smoke arises from it as if from a blazing fire, whereas the other even in summer flows forth cold as hail or chill snow. But, in the first place, no hot waters are now to be found at the site, and, secondly, the source of theScamander is not to be found there, but in the mountain; and it has only one source, not two. It is reasonable to suppose, therefore, that the hot spring has given out, and that the cold one is evacuated from theScamander through an underground passage and rises to the surface here, or else that because of the nearness of theScamander this water is called a source of theScamander; for people are wont to ascribe several sources to one and the same river in this way.
§ 13.1.44 TheScamander is joined by the Andirus, which flows fromCaresene, a mountainous country settled with many villages and beautifully cultivated; it extends alongsideDardania as far as the regions ofZeleia andPityeia. It is said that the country was named after theCaresus River, which is named by the poet,"Rhesus,Heptaporus,Caresus, andRhodius, and that the city of the same name as the river was torn down. Again,Demetrius says as follows: "TheRhesus River is now calledRhoeites, unless it be that the river which empties into theGranicus is theRhesus. TheHeptaporus, also called Polyporus, is crossed seven times by one travelling from the region of theBeautiful Pine to the village calledMelaenae and the Asclepieium that was founded byLysimachus. Concerning theBeautiful Pine, KingAttalus the First writes as follows: "Its circumference is twenty-four feet; and its trunk rises to a height of sixty-seven feet from the root and then splits into three forks equidistant from one another, and then contracts again into one head, thus completing a total height of two plethra and fifteen cubits." It is one hundred and eighty stadia distant fromAdramyttium, to the north of it. TheCaresus flows fromMalus, a place situated betweenPalaescepsis and theAchaeium, the part of the mainland that belongs to theTenedians; and it empties into theAesepus. TheRhodius flows fromCleandria andGordus, which are sixty stadia distant from theBeautiful Pine; and it empties into the Aenius.
§ 13.1.45 In the dale of theAesepus, on the left of the stream, one comes first toPolichna, a place enclosed by walls; and then toPalaescepsis; and then to Alizonium (this last name having been fabricated to support the hypothesis about theHalizones, whom I have already discussed); and then toCaresus, which is deserted, andCaresene, and the river of the same name, which also forms a notable dale, though smaller than that of theAesepus; and next follow the plains and plateaux ofZeleia, which are beautifully cultivated. On the right of theAesepus, betweenPolichna andPalaescepsis, one comes to Nea Come andArgyria, and this again is a name fabricated to support the same hypothesis, in order to save the words, "where is the birthplace of silver. Now where is Alybe, orAlope, or however they wish to alter the spelling of the name? For having once made their bold venture, they should have rubbed their faces and fabricated this name too, instead of leaving it lame and readily subject to detection. Now these things are open to objections of this kind, but, in the case of the others, or at least most of them, I take it for granted that we must give heed to him as a man who was acquainted with the region and a native of it, who gave enough thought to this subject to write thirty books of commentary on a little more than sixty lines ofHomer, that is, on theCatalogue of theTrojans. He says, at any rate, thatPalaescepsis is fifty stadia distant from Aenea and thirty from theAesepus River, and that from thisPalaescepsis the same name was extended to several other sites. But I shall return to the coast at the point where I left off.
§ 13.1.46 After the Sigeian Promontory and theAchilleium one comes to theAchaeium, the part of the mainland that belongs to theTenedians; and toTenedos itself, which is not more than forty stadia distant from the mainland. It is about eighty stadia in circumference, and has anAeolian city and two harbors and a sanctuary ofSminthianApollo, as the poet testifies: "And dost rule mightily overTenedos, OSminthian. Round it lie several small islands, in particular two, which are called theCalydnae and are situated on the voyage toLectum. And some give the nameCalydna toTenedos itself, while others call itLeucophrys. In it is laid the scene of the myth ofTennes, after whom the island was named, as also that ofCycnus, a Thracian by birth and, according to some, father ofTennes and king ofColonae.
§ 13.1.47 BothLarisa andColonae used to be adjacent to theAchaeium, formerly being on the part of the mainland that belonged to theTenedians; and then one comes to the presentChrysa, which was founded on a rocky height above the sea, and toHamaxitus, which lies belowLectum and adjacent to it. At the present timeAlexandria is adjacent to theAchaeium; and those other towns, like several others of the strongholds, have been incorporated withAlexandria, among themCebrene andNeandria; andAlexandria holds their territory. But the site on whichAlexandria now lies used to be calledSigeia.
§ 13.1.48 In thisChrysa is also thesanctuary ofSminthianApollo; and the symbol which preserves the etymology of the name, I mean themouse, lies beneath the foot of his image. These are the works ofScopas ofParos; and also the history, or myth, about themice is associated with this place: When the Teucrians arrived fromCrete (Callinus the elegiac poet was the first to hand down an account of these people, and many have followed him), they had an oracle which bade them to "stay on the spot where the earth-born should attack them"; and, he says the attack took place roundHamaxitus, for by night a great multitude of field-mice swarmed out of the ground and ate up all the leather in their arms and equipment; and the Teucrians remained there; and it was they who gave its name to Mt.Ida, naming it after the mountain inCrete.Heracleides ofPontus says that themice which swarmed round the sanctuary were regarded as sacred, and that for this reason the image was designed with its foot upon themouse. Others say that a certainTeucer came from the deme ofTroes, now called Xypeteones, inAttica, but that no Teucrians came fromCrete. As a further sign of the close relationship of theTrojans with the people ofAttica they record the fact theErichthonius was one of the original founders on both tribes. Now this is the account of the more recent writer; but more in agreement withHomer are the traces to be seen in the plain ofThebe and in theChrysa which was once founded there, which I shall soon discuss. The name ofSmintheus is used in many places, for in the neighborhood ofHamaxitus itself, apart from theSminthium at the sanctuary, there are two places calledSminthia; and there are others in the neighboring territory ofLarisa. And also in the territory ofParium there is a place calledSminthia, as also inRhodes and inLindus and in many other places. And they now call the sanctuarySminthium. Apart, at any rate, lie both the Halesian Plain, of no great size, and inland fromLectum, and theTragasaean salt-pan nearHamaxitus, where salt is naturally caused to congeal by theEtesian winds. OnLectum is to be seen an altar of the Twelve Gods, said to have been founded byAgamemnon. These places are all in sight ofIlium, at a distance of about two hundred stadia or a little more; and the same is the case with the places roundAbydus on the other side, althoughAbydus is a little closer.
§ 13.1.49 On doublingLectum one comes next to the most notable cities of theAeolians, and to the Gulf ofAdramyttium, on which the poet obviously places the majority of theLeleges, as also theCilicians, who were twofold. Here too is the shore-land of theMitylenaeans, with certain villages belonging to theMitylenaeans who live on the mainland. The same gulf is also called theIdaean Gulf, for the ridge which extends fromLectum to Mt.Ida lies above the first part of the gulf, where the poet represents theLeleges as first settled.
§ 13.1.50 But I have already discussed these matters. I must now add thatHomer speaks of aPedasus, a city of theLeleges, as subject to lordAltes: "OfAltes, who is lord over the war-lovingLeleges, who hold steepPedasus on theSatnioeis. And the site of the place, now deserted, is still to be seen. Some write, though wrongly, "at the foot ofSatnioeis," as though the city lay at the foot of a mountain called Satnioeis; but there is no mountain here called Satinoeis, but only a river of that name, on which the city is situated; but the city is now deserted. The poet names the river, for, according to him, "he woundedSatnius with a thrust of his spear, even the son ofOinops, whom a peerlessNaiad nymph bore untoOinops, as he tended his herds by the banks of theSatnioeis; and again: "And he dwelt by the banks of the fair-flowingSatnioeis in steepPedasus. And in later times it was calledSatnioeis, though some called itSaphnioeis. It is only a large winter torrent, but the naming of it by the poet has made it worthy of mention. These places are continuous withDardania andScepsia, and are, as it were, a secondDardania, but it is lower-lying.
§ 13.1.51 To theAssians and theGargarians now belong all the parts as far as the sea offLesbos that are surrounded by the territory ofAntandrus and that of theCebrenians andNeandrians andHamaxitans; for theAntandrians are situated aboveHamaxitus, like it being situated insideLectum, though farther inland and nearer toIlium, for they are one hundred and thirty stadia distant fromIlium. Higher up than these are theCebrenians, and still higher up than the latter are the Dardanians, who extend as far asPalaescepsis andScepsis itself.Antandrus is called byAlcaeus "city of theLeleges": "First,Antandrus, city of theLeleges but it is placed by theScepsian among the cities adjacent to their territory, so that it would fall within the territory of theCilicians; for the territory of theCilicians is continuous with that of theLeleges, the former, rather than the latter, marking off the southern flank of Mt.Ida. But still the territory of theCilicians also lies low and, rather than that of theLeleges, joins the part of the coast that is nearAdramyttium. For afterLectum one comes to a place calledPolymedium, at a distance of forty stadia; then, at a distance of eighty, toAssus, slightly above the sea; and then, at a distance of one hundred and twenty, toGargara, which lies on a promontory that forms the Adramyttene Gulf, in the special sense of that term; for the whole of the coast fromLectum toCanae is also called by this same name, in which is also included theElaitic Gulf. In the special sense of the term, however, only that part of it is called Adramyttene which is enclosed by that promontory on whichGargara lies and the promontory calledPyrrha, on which the Aphrodisium is situated. The breadth of the mouth across from promontory to promontory is a distance of one hundred and twenty stadia. Inside isAntandrus, above which lies a mountain called Alexandreia, where the Judgment ofParis is said to have taken place, as alsoAspaneus, the market for the timber from Mt.Ida; for here people bring it down and sell it to those who want it. And then comesAstyra, a village with a precinct sacred to the AstyreneArtemis. And quite nearAstyra isAdramyttium, a city colonized by theAthenians, which has both a harbor and a naval station. Outside the gulf and the promontory calledPyrrha liesCisthene, a deserted city with a harbor. Above it, in the interior, lie the copper mine andPerperene andTrarium and other settlements like these two. On the next stretch of coast one comes to the villages of theMitylenaeans, I mean Coryphantis andHeracleia; and after these places toAttea, and then toAtarneus andPitane and the outlets of theCaicus River; and here we have already reached theElaitic Gulf. On the far side of the river lieElaea and the rest of the gulf as far asCanae. But let me go back and discuss in detail the several places, if anything worthy of mention has been passed over; and first of all,Scepsis.
§ 13.1.52 Palaescepsis lies aboveCebren near the highest part of Mt.Ida, nearPolichna; and it was then calledScepsis (whether for another reason or from the fact that the place is visible all round, if it is right to derive from Greek words names then used by barbarians), but later the inhabitants were removed sixty stadia lower down to the presentScepsis by Scamandrius the son ofHector andAscanius the son ofAeneias; and their two families are said to have held the kingship overScepsis for a long time. After this they changed to an oligarchy, and thenMilesians settled with them as fellow-citizens; and they began to live under a democracy. But the heirs of the royal family none the less continued to be called kings and retained certain prerogatives. Then theScepsians were incorporated intoAlexandreia byAntigonus; and then they were released byLysimachus and went back to their home-land.
§ 13.1.53 Demetrius thinks thatScepsis was also the royal residence ofAeneias, since it lies midway between the territory subject toAeneias andLyrnessus, to which latter he fled, according toHomer's statement, when he was being pursued byAchilles. At any rate,Achilles says: "Dost thou not remember how from thekine, when thou wast all alone, I made thee run down theIdaean mountains with swift feet? And thence thou didst escape toLyrnessus, but I rushed in pursuit of thee and sacked it. However, the oft-repeated stories ofAeneias are not in agreement with the account which I have just given of the founders ofScepsis. For according to these stories he survived the war because of his enmity toPriam: "For always he was wroth against goodlyPriam, because, although he was brave amid warriors,Priam would not honor him at all; and his fellow-rulers, the sons ofAntenor andAntenor himself, survived because of the hospitality shownMenelaus atAntenor's house. At any rate,Sophocles says that at the capture ofTroy a leopard's skin was put before the doors ofAntenor as a sign that his house was to be left unpillaged; andAntenor and his children safely escaped toThrace with the survivors of theHeneti, and from there got across to theAdriatic Henetice, as it is called, whereasAeneias collected a host of followers and set sail with his fatherAnchises and his sonAscanius; and some say that he took up his abode near theMacedonianOlympus, others that he foundedCapyae nearMantineia inArcadia, deriving the name he gave the settlement fromCapys, and others say that he landed atAegesta inSicily withElymus theTrojan and took possession ofEryx andLilybaion, and gave the namesScamander andSimoeis to rivers nearAegesta, and that thence he went into theLatin country and made it his abode, in accordance with an oracle which bade him abide where he should eat up his table, and that this took place in theLatin country in the neighborhood ofLavinium, where a large loaf of bread was put down for a table, for want of a better table, and eaten up along with the meats upon it.Homer, however, appears not to be in agreement with either of the two stories, nor yet with the above account of the founders ofScepsis; for he clearly indicates thatAeneias remained inTroy and succeeded to the empire and bequeathed the succession thereto to his sons' sons, the family of thePriamidae having been wiped out: "For already the race ofPriam was hated, by the son ofCronus; and now verily the mightyAeneias will rule over theTrojans, and his sons' sons that are hereafter to be born. And in this case one cannot even save from rejection the succession of Scamandrius. AndHomer is in far greater disagreement with those who speak ofAeneias as having wandered even as far asItaly and make him die there. Some write, "the family ofAeneias will rule over all, and his sons' sons, meaning the Romans.
§ 13.1.54 FromScepsis came theSocratic philosophersErastus andCoriscus andNeleus the son ofCoriscus, this last a man who not only was a pupil ofAristotle andTheophrastus, but also inherited the library ofTheophrastus, which included that ofAristotle. At any rate,Aristotle bequeathed his own library toTheophrastus, to whom he also left his school; and he is the first man, so far as I know, to have collected books and to have taught the kings inEgypt how to arrange a library.Theophrastus bequeathed it toNeleus; andNeleus took it toScepsis and bequeathed it to his heirs, ordinary people, who kept the books locked up and not even carefully stored. But when they heard how zealously theAttalic kings to whom the city was subject were searching for books to build up the library inPergamum, they hid their books underground in a kind of trench. But much later, when the books had been damaged by moisture and moths, their descendants sold them toApellicon ofTeos for a large sum of money, both the books ofAristotle and those ofTheophrastus. ButApellicon was a bibliophile rather than a philosopher; and therefore, seeking a restoration of the parts that had been eaten through, he made new copies of the text, filling up the gaps incorrectly, and published the books full of errors. The result was that the earlier school ofPeripatetics who came afterTheophrastus had no books at all, with the exception of only a few, mostly exoteric works, and were therefore able to philosophize about nothing in a practical way, but only to talk bombast about commonplace propositions, whereas the later school, from the time the books in question appeared, though better able to philosophise and Aristotelise, were forced to call most of their statements probabilities, because of the large number of errors.Rome also contributed much to this; for, immediately after the death ofApellicon,Sulla, who had capturedAthens, carried offApellicon's library toRome, whereTyrannion the grammarian, who was fond ofAristotle, got it in his hands by paying court to the librarian, as did also certain booksellers who used bad copyists and would not collate the texts — a thing that also takes place in the case of the other books that are copied for selling, both here and atAlexandria. However, this is enough about these men.
§ 13.1.55 FromScepsis came alsoDemetrius, whom I often mention, the grammarian who wrote a commentary on The Marshalling of theTrojan Forces, and was born at about the same time asCrates andAristarchus; and later,Metrodorus, a man who changed from his pursuit of philosophy to political life, and taught rhetoric, for the most part, in his written works; and he used a brand-new style and dazzled many. On account of his reputation he succeeded, though a poor man, in marrying brilliantly inChalcedon; and he passed for aChalcedonian. And having paid court toMithridates Eupator, he with his wife sailed away with him toPontus; and he was treated with exceptional honor, being appointed to the judgeship from which there was no appeal to the king. However, his good fortune did not continue, but he incurred the enmity of men less just than himself and revolted from the king when he was on the embassy toTigranes theArmenian. AndTigranes sent him back against his will toEupator, who was already in flight from his ancestral realm; butMetrodorus died on the way, whether by order of the king or from disease; for both accounts are given of his death. So much for theScepsians.
§ 13.1.56 AfterScepsis comeAndeira andPioniae and the territory ofGargara. There is a stone in the neighborhood ofAndeira which, when burned, becomes iron, and then, when heated in a furnace with a certain earth, distils mock-silver; and this, with the addition of copper, makes the "mixture," as it is called, which by some is called "mountaincopper." These are the places which theLeleges occupied; and the same is true of the places in the neighborhood ofAssus.
§ 13.1.57 Assus is by nature strong and well-fortified; and the ascent to it from the sea and the harbor is very steep and long, so that the statement ofStratonicus the citharist in regard to it seems appropriate: "Go toAssus, in order that thou mayest more quickly come to the doom of death. The harbor is formed by a great mole. FromAssus cameCleanthes, theStoic philosopher who succeededZeno ofCitium as head of the school and left it toChrysippus ofSoli. Here tooAristotle tarried, because of his relationship by marriage with the tyrantHermeias.Hermeias was a eunuch, the slave of a certain banker; and on his arrival atAthens he became a pupil of bothPlato andAristotle. On his return he shared the tyranny with his master, who had already laid hold of the districts ofAtarneus andAssus; and thenHermeias succeeded him and sent for bothAristotle andXenocrates and took care of them; and he also married his brother's daughter toAristotle.Memnon ofRhodes, who was at that time serving thePersians as general, made a pretence of friendship forHermeias, and then invited him to come for a visit, both in the name of hospitality and at the same time for pretended business reasons; but he arrested him and sent him up to the king, where he was put to death by hanging. But the philosophers safely escaped by flight from the districts above-mentioned, which were seized by thePersians.
§ 13.1.58 Myrsilus says thatAssus was founded by theMethymnaeans; andHellanicus too calls it anAeolian city, just as alsoGargara andLamponia belonged to theAeolians. ForGargara was founded by theAssians; but it was not well peopled, for the kings brought into it colonists fromMiletopolis when they devastated that city, so that instead ofAeolians, according toDemetrius ofScepsis, the inhabitants ofGargara became semi-barbarians. According toHomer, however, all these places belonged to theLeleges, who by some are represented to beCarians, although byHomer they are mentioned apart: "Towards the sea are theCarians and thePaeonians of the curved bow and theLeleges and theCauconians. They were therefore a different people from theCarians; and they lived between the people subject toAeneias and the people whom the poet calledCilicians, but when they were pillaged byAchilles they migrated toCaria and took possession of the district round the presentHalicarnassus.
§ 13.1.59 However, the cityPedasus, now abandoned by them, is no longer in existence; but in the inland territory of theHalicarnassians there used to be a cityPedasa, so named by them; and the present territory is called Pedasis. It is said that as many as eight cities were settled in this territory by theLeleges, who in earlier times were so numerous that they not only took possession of that part ofCaria which extends toMyndus andBargylia, but also cut off for themselves a large portion ofPisidia. But later, when they went out on expeditions with theCarians, they became distributed throughout the whole of Greece, and the tribe disappeared. Of the eight cities,Mausolus united six into one city,Halicarnassus, asCallisthenes tells us, but keptSyangela andMyndus as they were. These are thePedasians of whomHerodotus says that when any misfortune was about to come upon them and their neighbors, the priestess ofAthena would grow a beard; and that this happened to them three times. And there is also a small town called Pedasum in the present territory ofStratoniceia. And throughout the whole ofCaria and inMiletus are to be seen tombs, fortifications, and traces of settlements of theLeleges.
§ 13.1.60 After theLeleges, on the next stretch of coast, lived theCilicians, according toHomer; I mean the stretch of coast now held by theAdramytteni andAtarneitae andPitanaei, as far as the outlet of theCaicus. TheCilicians, as I have said, were divided into two dynasties, one subject toEetion and one toMynes.
§ 13.1.61 NowHomer callsThebe the city ofEetion: "We went intoThebe, the sacred city ofEetion; and he clearly indicates that alsoChrysa, which had the sanctuary ofSminthianApollo, belonged toEetion, if it be true thatChryseis was taken captive atThebe, for he says, "We went intoThebe, and laid it waste and brought hither all the spoil. And this they divided aright among themselves, but they chose outChryseis for the son ofAtreus; and thatLyrnessus belonged toMynes, sinceAchilles "laid wasteLyrnessus and the walls ofThebe and slew bothMynes andEpistrophus; so that whenBriseis says, "thou wouldst not even let me, when swiftAchilles slew my husband and sacked the city of divineMynes,Homer cannot meanThebe (for this belonged toEetion), butLyrnessus. Both were situated in what was afterwards called the Plain ofThebe, which, on account of its fertility, is said to have been an object of contention between theMysians andLydians in earlier times, and later between the Greeks who colonized it fromAeolis andLesbos. But the greater part of it is now held by theAdramytteni, for here lie bothThebe andLyrnessus, the latter a natural stronghold; but both places are deserted. FromAdramyttium the former is distant sixty stadia and the latter eighty-eight, in opposite directions.
§ 13.1.62 In the territory ofAdramyttium lie alsoChrysa andCilla. At any rate there is still today a place nearThebe calledCilla, where is a sanctuary of theCillaeanApollo; and the Cillaeus River, which runs from Mt.Ida, flows past it. These places lie near the territory ofAntandrus. TheCillaion inLesbos is named after thisCilla; and there is also a Mt. Cillaion betweenGargara andAntandrus.Daes ofColonae says that the sanctuary of theCillaeanApollo was first founded inColonae by theAeolians who sailed from Greece; it is also said that a sanctuary ofCillaeanApollo was established atChrysa, though it is not clear whether he is the same as theSminthianApollo or distinct from him.
§ 13.1.63 Chrysa was a small town on the sea, with a harbor; and near by, above it, liesThebe. Here too was the sanctuary of theSminthianApollo; and here livedChryseisBut the place is now utterly deserted; and the sanctuary was transferred to the presentChrysa nearHamaxitus when theCilicians were driven out, partly toPamphylia and partly toHamaxitus. Those who are less acquainted with ancient history say that it was at thisChrysa thatChryses andChryseis lived, and thatHomer mentions this place; but, in the first place, there is no harbor here, and yetHomer says, "And when they had now arrived inside the deep harbor; and, secondly, the sanctuary is not on the sea, thoughHomer makes it on the sea; "and out from the seafaring ship steppedChryseis. Here then didOdysseus of many wiles lead to the altar, and place in the arms of her dear father; neither is it nearThebe, thoughHomer makes it near; at any rate, he speaks ofChryseis's having been taken captive there. Again, neither is there any place calledCilla to be seen in the territory of theAlexandreians, nor any sanctuary ofCillaeanApollo; but the poet couples the two, "who dost stand overChrysa and sacredCilla. But it is to be seen near by in the Plain ofThebe. And the voyage from theCilicianChrysa to the Naval Station is about seven hundred stadia, approximately a day's voyage, such a distance, obviously, as that sailed byOdysseus; for immediately upon disembarking he offered the sacrifice to the god, and since evening overtook him he remained on the spot and sailed away the next morning. But the distance fromHamaxitus is scarcely a third of that above mentioned, so thatOdysseus could have completed the sacrifice and sailed back to the Naval Station on the same day. There is also a tomb ofCillus in the neighborhood of the sanctuary of theCillaeanApollo, a great barrow. He is said to have been the charioteer ofPelops and to have ruled over this region; and perhaps it was after him thatCilicia was named, or vice versa.
§ 13.1.64 Now the story of the Teucrians and themice — whence the epithet "Sminthian," since "sminthi" means "mice" — must be transferred to this place. And writers excuse this giving of epithets from small creatures by such examples as the following: It is from locusts, they say, which theOitaeans call "cornopes," thatHeracles is worshipped among theOitaeans as "Cornopion," for ridding them of locusts; and he is worshipped among theErythraeans who live inMimas as "Ipoctonus," because he is the destroyer of the vine-eating ips; and in fact, they add, these are the onlyErythraeans in whose country this creature is not to be found. And theRhodians, who call erysibe "erythibe," have a sanctuary ofApollo "Erythibius" in their country; and among theAeolians inAsia a certain month is called Pornopion, since theBoeotians so call the locusts, and a sacrifice is offered toApollo Pornopion.
§ 13.1.65 Now the territory roundAdramyttium isMysian, though it was once subject to theLydians; and today there is a gate inAdramyttium which is called theLydian Gate because, as they say, the city was founded byLydians. And they say that the neighboring villageAstyra belongs toMysia. It was once a small town, where, in a sacred grove, was the sanctuary of theAstyreneArtemis, which was superintended, along with holy rites, by theAntandrians, who were its nearer neighbors. It is twenty stadia distant from the ancientChrysa, which also had its sanctuary in a sacred precinct. Here too was the Palisade ofAchilles. And in the interior, fifty stadia away, isThebe, now deserted, which the poet speaks of as "beneath woodedPlacus"; but, in the first place, the name "Placus" or "Plax" is not found there at all, and, secondly, no wooded place lies above it, though it is near Mt.Ida.Thebe is as much as seventy stadia distant fromAstyra and sixty fromAndeira. But all these are names of deserted or scantily peopled places, or of winter torrents; and they are often mentioned only because of their ancient history.
§ 13.1.66 BothAssus andAdramyttium are notable cities. But misfortune befellAdramyttium in theMithridatic War, for the members of the city council were slaughtered, to please the king, byDiodorus the general, who pretended at the same time to be a philosopher of theAcademy, a dispenser of justice, and a teacher of rhetoric. And indeed he also joined the king on his journey toPontus; but when the king was overthrown he paid the penalty for his misdeeds; for many charges were brought against him, all at the same time, and, being unable to bear the ignominy, he shamefully starved himself to death, in my own city. Another inhabitant ofAdramyttium was the famous oratorXenocles, who belonged to the Asiatic school and was as able a debater as ever lived, having even made a speech on behalf ofAsia before the Senate, at the time whenAsia was accused of Mithridatism.
§ 13.1.67 NearAstyra is an abyssal lake calledSapra, which has an outbreak into a reefy seashore. BelowAndeira is a sanctuary sacred to the AndeireneMother of the Gods, and also a cave that runs underground as far as Palaea. Palaea is a settlement so named, at a distance of one hundred and thirty stadia fromAndeira. The underground passage became known through the fact that agoat fell into the mouth of it and was found on the following day nearAndeira by a shepherd who happened to have come to make sacrifice.Atarneus is the abode of the tyrantHermeias; and then one comes toPitane, an Aeolic city, which has two harbors, and theEvenus River, which flows past it, whence the aqueduct has been built by theAdramytteni. FromPitane cameArcesilaus, of theAcademy, a fellow-student withZeno ofCitium underPolemon. InPitane there is also a place on the sea called "Atarneus belowPitane," opposite the island called Eleussa. It is said that inPitane bricks float on water, as is also the case with a certain earth inTyrrhenia, for the earth is lighter than an equal bulk of water, so that it floats. AndPoseidonius says that inIberia he saw bricks moulded from a clay-like earth, with which silver is cleaned, and that they floated on water. AfterPitane one comes to theCaicus River, which empties at a distance of thirty stadia into theElaitic Gulf, as it is called. On the far side of theCaicus, twelve stadia distant from the river, isElaea, an Aeolic city, which also is a seaport of thePergamenians, being one hundred and twenty stadia distant fromPergamum.
§ 13.1.68 Then, at a distance of a hundred stadia, one comes toKane, the promontory which rises oppositeLectum and forms the Adramyttene Gulf, of which theElaitic gulf is a part.Canae is a small town ofLocrians fromCynus, and lies in the Canaean territory opposite the southernmost ends ofLesbos. This territory extends as far as theArginussae Islands and the promontory above them, which some callAega, making it the same as the word for the animal; but the second syllable should be pronounced long, that is, "Aega," like Acta and Archa, forAega used to be the name of the whole of the mountain which is now calledKane or Canae. The mountain is surrounded on the south and west by the sea, and on the east by the plain of theCaicus, which lies below it, and on the north by the territory ofElaea. This mountain forms a fairly compact mass off to itself, though it slopes towards theAegean Sea, whence it got its name. Later the promontory itself was called Aega, as inSappho, but the rest was calledKane or Canae.
§ 13.1.69 BetweenElaea,Pitane,Atarneus, andPergamum liesTeuthrania, which is at no greater distance than seventy stadia from any of them and is this side theCaicus River; and the story told is thatTeuthras was king of theCilicians andMysians.Euripides says thatAuge, with her childTelephus, was put byAleus, her father, into a chest and submerged in the sea when he had detected her ruin byHeracles, but that by the providence ofAthena the chest was carried across the sea and cast ashore at the mouth of theCaicus, and thatTeuthras rescued the prisoners, and treated the mother as his wife and the child as his own son. Now this is the myth, but there must have been some other issue of fortune through which the daughter of theArcadian consorted with the king of theMysians and her son succeeded to his kingdom. It is believed, at any rate, that bothTeuthras andTelephus reigned as kings over the country roundTeuthrania and theCaicus, thoughHomer goes only so far as to mention the story thus: "But what a man was the son ofTelephus, the heroEurypylus, whom he slew with the bronze; and round him were slain many comrades, Ceteians, on account of a woman's gifts. The poet thus sets before us a puzzle instead of making a clear statement; for we neither know whom we should understand the poet to mean by the "Ceteians" nor what he means by "on account of the gifts of a woman"; but the grammarians too throw in petty myths, more to show their inventiveness than to solve questions.
§ 13.1.70 However, let us dismiss these; and let us, taking that which is more obvious, say that, according toHomer,Eurypylus clearly reigned in the region of theCaicus, so that perhaps a part of theCilicians were subject to him, in which case there were three dynasties among them and not merely two. This statement is supported by the fact that there is to be seen in the territory ofElaea a torrential stream called the Ceteius; this empties into another like it, and this again into another, and they all end in theCaicus. But theCaicus does not flow fromIda, asBacchylides states; neither isEuripides correct in saying thatMarsyas "dwells in widely famedCelaenae, in the farthermost region ofIda; forCelaenae is very far fromIda, and the sources of theCaicus are also very far, for they are to be seen in a plain.Temnus is a mountain which forms the boundary between this plain and the Plain ofApia, as it is called, which lies in the interior above the Plain ofThebe. FromTemnus flows a river calledMysius, which empties into theCaicus below its sources; and it was from this fact, as some interpret the passage, thatAeschylus said at the opening of the prologue to theMyrmidons,"Oh! thouCaicus and yeMysian in-flows. Near the sources is a village calledGergitha, to whichAttalus transferred theGergithians of theTroad when he had destroyed their place.
§ 13.2.1 Lesbos SinceLesbos, an island worthy of a full account, lies alongside and opposite the coast which extends fromLectum toCanae, and also has small islands lying round it, some outside it and some between it and the mainland, it is now time to describe these; for these areAeolian, and I might almost say thatLesbos is the metropolis of theAeolian cities. But I must begin at the point whence I began to traverse the coast that lies opposite the island.
§ 13.2.2 Now as one sails fromLectum toAssus, theLesbian country begins atSigrium, its promontory on the north. In this general neighborhood is alsoMethymna, a city of theLesbians, sixty stadia distant from the coast that stretches fromPolymedium toAssus. But while the perimeter which is filled out by the island as a whole is eleven hundred stadia, the several distances are as follows: FromMethymna toMalia, the southernmost promontory to one keeping the island on the right, I mean at the point whereCanae lies most directly opposite the island and precisely corresponds with it, the distance is three hundred and forty stadia; thence toSigrium, which is the length of the island, five hundred and sixty; and then toMethymna, two hundred and ten.Mitylene, the largest city, lies betweenMethymna andMalia, being seventy stadia distant fromMalia, one hundred and twenty fromCanae, and the same distance from theArginussae, which are three small islands lying near the mainland alongsideCanae. In the interval betweenMitylene andMethymna, in the neighborhood of a village calledAegeirus in theMethymnaean territory, the island is narrowest, with a passage of only twenty stadia over to the Euripus of thePyrrhaeans.Pyrrha is situated on the western side ofLesbos at a distance of one hundred stadia fromMalia.Mitylene has two harbors, of which the southern can be closed and holds only fifty triremes, but the northern is large and deep, and is sheltered by a mole. Off both lies a small island, which contains a part of the city that is settled there. And the city is well equipped with everything.
§ 13.2.3 Mitylene has produced famous men: in early times,Pittacus, one of theSeven Wise Men; and the poetAlcaeus, and his brotherAntimenidas, who, according toAlcaeus, won a great struggle when fighting on the side of theBabylonians, and rescued them from their toils by killing "a warrior, the royal wrestler" (as he says), who was but one short of five cubits in height. And along with these flourished alsoSappho, a marvellous woman; for in all the time of which we have record I do not know of the appearance of any woman who could rivalSappho, even in a slight degree, in the matter of poetry. The city was in those times ruled over by several tyrants because of the dissensions among the inhabitants; and these dissensions are the subject of the Stasiotic poems, as they are called, ofAlcaeus. And alsoPittacus was one of the tyrants. NowAlcaeus would rail alike at bothPittacus and the rest,Myrsilus andMelanchrus and theCleanactidae and certain others, though even he himself was not innocent of revolutionary attempts; but evenPittacus himself used monarchy for the overthrow of the oligarchs, and then, after overthrowing them, restored to the city its independence.Diophanes the rhetorician was born much later; butPotamon,Lesbocles,Crinagoras, andTheophanes the historian in my time.Theophanes was also a statesman; and he became a friend toPompey the Great, mostly through his very ability, and helped him to succeed in all his achievements; whence he not only adorned his native land, partly throughPompey and partly through himself, but also rendered himself the most illustrious of all the Greeks. He left a son,Marcus Pompey, whomAugustus Caesar once set up as Procurator ofAsia, and who is now counted among the first of the friends ofTiberius. TheAthenians were in danger of suffering an irreparable disgrace when they voted that allMitylenaeans from youth upwards should be slain, but they changed their minds and their counter-decree reached the generals only one day before the order was to be executed.
§ 13.2.4 Pyrrha has been razed to the ground, but its suburb is inhabited and has a harbor, whence there is a passage of eighty stadia over hills toMitylene. Then, afterPyrrha, one comes toEressus; it is situated on a hill and extends down to the sea. Then toSigrium, twenty-eight stadia fromEressus. BothTheophrastus andPhanias, the peripatetic philosophers, disciples ofAristotle, were fromEressus.Theophrastus was at first calledTyrtamus, butAristotle changed his name toTheophrastus, at the same time avoiding the cacophony of his name and signifying the fervor of his speech; forAristotle made all his pupils eloquent, butTheophrastus most eloquent of all.Antissa, a city with a harbor, comes next in order afterSigrium. And thenMethymna, whence cameArion, who, according to a myth told byHerodotus and his followers, safely escaped on adolphin toTaenarum after being thrown into the sea by thepirates. NowArion played, and sang to, the cithara; andTerpander, also, is said to have been an artist in the same music and to have been born in the same island, having been the first person to use the seven-stringed instead of the four-stringed lyre, as we are told in the verses attributed to him: "For thee I, having dismissed four-toned song, shall sing new hymns to the tune of a seven-stringed cithara. AlsoHellanicus the historian, and Cailias, who interpretedSappho andAlcaeus, wereLesbians.
§ 13.2.5 In the strait betweenAsia andLesbos there are about twenty small islands, but according toTimosthenes, forty. They are calledHecatonnesi, a compound name likePeloponnesus, the second letter n being customarily redundant in such compounds, as in the namesMyonnesus,Proconnesus, andHalonnesus; and consequently we haveHecatonnesi, which means Apollonnesi, forApollo is called Hecatus; for along the whole of this coast, as far asTenedos,Apollo is highly honored, being calledSminthian orCillaean orGrynian or by some other appellation. Near these islands isPordoselene, which contains a city of the same name, and also, in front of this city, another island, larger and of the same name, which is uninhabited and has a sanctuary sacred toApollo.
§ 13.2.6 Some writers, to avoid the indecency of the names, say that in this place we should read "Poroselene," and that we should call Aspordenum, the rocky and barren mountain roundPergamum, "Asporenum," and the sanctuary of theMother of the Gods there the sanctuary of the "Asporene" mother. What, then, shall we say of Pordalis and Saperdes andPerdiccas, and of the phrase ofSimonides,"banished, 'pordacian' clothes and all, instead of "wet" clothes, and, somewhere in the early comedy, "the place is 'pordacian,' that is, the place that is "marshy"?Lesbos is equidistant fromTenedos andLemnos andChios, one might say rather less than five hundred stadia.
§ 13.3.1 Leleges Since theLeleges and theCilicians were so closely related to theTrojans, people inquire for the reason why they are not included with theTrojans in theCatalogue. But it is reasonable to suppose that because of the loss of their leaders and the sacking of their cities the fewCilicians that were left were placed under the command ofHector, for bothEetion and his sons are said to have been slain before theCatalogue: "Verily my father was slain by the goodlyAchilles, who utterly sacked the well-peopled city ofCilicians,Thebe of the lofty gates. And the seven brothers of mine in our halls, all these on the same day went inside the home ofHades, for all were slain by swift-footed, goodlyAchilles. And so, in the same way, those subject toMynes lost both their leaders and their city: "And he laid lowMynes andEpistrophus, and sacked the city of godlikeMynes. Hom. Il. 19.But he makes theLeleges present at the battles when he says as follows: "Towards the sea are situated theCarians and thePaeonians, with curved bows, and theLeleges andCaucones. And again, "he pierced with a sharp spearSatnius, son ofOinops, whom a nobleNaiad nymph bore toOinops, as he tended his herds beside the banks of theSatnioeis; for they had not so completely disappeared that they did not have a separate organization of their own, since their king still survived, "ofAltes, who is lord over the war-lovingLeleges, and since their city had not been utterly wiped out, for the poet adds, "who holds steepPedasus on theSatnioeis. However, the poet has omitted them in theCatalogue, not considering their organization sufficient to have a place in it, or else including them under the command ofHector because they were so closely related; forLycaon, who was a brother ofHector, says, "to a short span of life my mother, daughter of the old manAltes, bore me —Altes who is lord over the war-lovingLeleges. Such, then, are the probabilities in this matter.
§ 13.3.2 And it is also a matter of reasoning from probabilities if one inquires as to the exact bounds to which the poet means that theCilicians extended, and thePelasgians, and also the Ceteians, as they are called, under the command ofEurypylus, who lived between those two peoples. Now as for theCilicians and the peoples under the command ofEurypylus, all has been said about them that can be said, and that their country is in a general way bounded by the region of theCaicus River. As for thePelasgians, it is reasonable, both from the words ofHomer and from history in general, to place them next in order after these peoples; forHomer says as follows: "AndHippothous led the tribes of thePelasgians that rage with the spear, them that dwelt in fertileLarisa; these were ruled byHippothous andPylaeus, scion ofAres, the two sons ofPelasgianLethus, son ofTeutamus. By these words he clearly indicates that the number ofPelasgians was considerable, for he says "tribes," not "tribe;" and he also specifies their abode as "inLarisa." Now there are manyLarisas, but we must interpret him as meaning one of those that were near; and best of all one might rightly assume the one in the neighborhood ofCyme; for of the threeLarisas the one nearHamaxitus was in plain sight ofIlium and very near it, within a distance of two hundred stadia, and therefore it could not be said with plausibility thatHippothous fell in the fight overPatroclus "far away from" this "Larisa," but rather from theLarisa nearCyme, for the distance between the two is about a thousand stadia. The third Larisa is a village in the territory ofEphesus in theCayster Plain; it is said to have been a city in earlier times, containing a sanctuary of LarisaeanApollo and being situated closer to Mt.Tmolus than toEphesus. It is one hundred and eighty stadia distant fromEphesus, and might therefore be placed under theMaeonians. But theEphesians, having grown in power, later cut off for themselves much of the territory of theMaeonians, whom we now callLydians, so that this could not be theLarisa of thePelasgians either, but rather the one nearCyme. In fact we have no strong evidence that theLarisa in theCayster Plain was already in existence at that time, for we have no such evidence as toEphesus either; but allAeolian history, which arose but shortly after theTrojan times, bears testimony to the existence of theLarisa nearCyme.
§ 13.3.3 For it is said that the people who set out from Phricium, theLocrian mountain aboveThermopylae, put in at the place whereCyme now is, and finding thePelasgians in bad plight because of theTrojan War, though still in possession ofLarisa, which was about seventy stadia distant fromCyme, built on their frontier what is still today calledNeon Teichos, thirty stadia fromLarisa, and that, having capturedLarisa, they foundedCyme and settled there the survivors. AndCyme is called CymePhriconis after theLocrian mountain; and likewiseLarisa is called LarisaPhriconis; butLarisa is now deserted. That thePelasgians were a great tribe is said also to be the testimony of history in general:Menecrates ofElaea, at any rate, in his work On the Founding of Cities, says that the whole of what is now theIonian coast, beginning atMycale, as also the neighboring islands, were in earlier times inhabited byPelasgians. But theLesbians say that their people were placed under the command ofPylaeus, the man whom the poet calls the ruler of thePelasgians, and that it is from him that the mountain in their country is still calledPylaeus. TheChians, also, say that thePelasgians fromThessaly were their founders. But thePelasgian race, ever wandering and quick to migrate, greatly increased and then rapidly disappeared, particularly at the time of the migration of theAeolians andIonians toAsia.
§ 13.3.4 A peculiar thing happened in the case of the Larisaeans, I mean theCaystrian Larissaeans and thePhryconian Larisaeans and, third, those inThessaly: they all held land that was deposited by rivers, by theCayster and by theHermus and by thePeneius. It is at the PhryconianLarisa thatPiasus is said to have been honored, who, they say, was ruler of thePelasgians and fell in love with his daughterLarisa, and, having violated her, paid the penalty for the outrage; for, observing him leaning over a cask of wine, they say, she seized him by the legs, raised him, and plunged him into the cask. Such are the ancient accounts.
§ 13.3.5 To the presentAeolian cities we must addAegae, and alsoTemnus, the birthplace ofHermagoras, who wrote The Art of Rhetoric. These cities are situated in the mountainous country that lies above the territory ofCyme and that of thePhocians and that of theSmyrnaeans, along which flows theHermus. Neither isMagnesia, which was under the command ofSipylus and has been adjudged a free city by the Romans, far from these cities. This city too has been damaged by the recent earthquakes. To the opposite parts, which incline towards theCaicus, fromLarisa across theHermus toCyme, the distance is seventy stadia; thence toMyrina, forty stadia; thence toGrynium, the same; and from there toElaea. But, according toArtemidorus, one goes fromCyme to Adae, and then, forty stadia distant, to a promontory called Hydra, which with the opposite promontoryHarmatus forms theElaitic Gulf. Now the width of the mouth of this gulf is about eighty stadia, but, including the sinuosities of the gulf,Myrina, anAeolian city with a harbor, is at a distance of sixty stadia; and then one comes to theharbor of the Achaeans, where are the altars of the Twelve Gods; and then to a townGrynium and an altar ofApollo and an ancient oracle and a costly temple of white marble, to which the distance is forty stadia; and then seventy stadia toElaea, with harbor and naval station belonging to the Attalid Kings, which was founded byMenestheus and theAthenians who took the expedition with him toIlium. I have already spoken of the places that come next, those aboutPitane andAtarneus and the others in that region.
§ 13.3.6 The largest and best of theAeolian cities isCyme; and this withLesbos might be called the metropolis of the rest of the cities, about thirty in number, of which not a few have disappeared.Cyme is ridiculed for its stupidity, owing to the repute, as some say, that not until three hundred years after the founding of the city did they sell the tolls of the harbor, and that before this time the people did not reap this revenue. They got the reputation, therefore, of being a people who learned late that they were living in a city by the sea. There is also another report of them, that, having borrowed money in the name of the state, they pledged their porticos as security, and then, failing to pay the money on the appointed day, were prohibited from walking in them; when it rained, however, their creditors, through a kind of shame, would bid them through a herald to go under the porticos; so the herald would cry out the words, "Go under the porticos," but the report went abroad that theCymaeans did not understand that they were to go under the porticos when it rained unless they were given notice by the herald.Ephorus, a man indisputably noteworthy, a disciple ofIsocrates the orator, and the author of the History and of the work on Inventions, was from this city; and so wasHesiod the poet, still earlier thanEphorus, forHesiod himself states that his fatherDius leftAeolianCyme and migrated toBoeotia: "And he settled nearHelicon in a wretched village,Ascre, which is bad in winter, oppressive in summer, and pleasant at no time. But it is not agreed thatHomer was fromCyme, for many peoples lay claim to him. It is agreed, however, that the name of the city was derived from anAmazon, as wasMyrina from theAmazon who lies in theTrojan plain belowBatieia, "which verily men callBatieia, but the immortals the tomb of much-boundingMyrina".Ephorus, too, is ridiculed because, though unable to tell of deeds of his native land in his enumeration of the other achievements in history, and yet unwilling that it should be unmentioned, he exclaims as follows: "At about the same time theCymaeans were at peace." Since I have traversed at the same time theTrojan andAeolian coasts, it would be next in order to treat cursorily the interior as far as theTaurus, observing the same order of approach.
§ 13.4.1 Pergamum A kind of hegemony is held over these places byPergamum, which is a famous city and for a long time prospered along with theAttalic kings; indeed I must begin my next description here, and first I must show briefly the origin of the kings and the end to which they came. NowPergamum was a treasure-hold ofLysimachus, the son ofAgathocles, who was one of the successors ofAlexander, and its people are settled on the very summit of the mountain; the mountain is cone-like and ends in a sharp peak. The custody of this stronghold and the treasure, which amounted to nine thousand talents, was entrusted toPhiletaerus ofTieium, who was a eunuch from boyhood; for it came to pass at a certain burial, when a spectacle was being given at which many people were present, that the nurse who was carryingPhiletaerus, still an infant, was caught in the crowd and pressed so hard that the child was incapacitated. He was a eunuch, therefore, but he was well trained and proved worthy of this trust. Now for a time he continued loyal toLysimachus, but he had differences withArsinoe, the wife ofLysimachus, who slandered him, and so he causedPergamum to revolt, and governed it to suit the occasion, since he saw that it was ripe for a change; forLysimachus, beset with domestic troubles, was forced to slay his sonAgathocles, andSeleucus Nicator invaded his country and overthrew him, and then he himself was overthrown and treacherously murdered byPtolemy Ceraunus. During these disorders the eunuch continued to be in charge of the fortress and to manage things through promises and courtesies in general, always catering to any man who was powerful or near at hand. At any rate, he continued lord of the stronghold and the treasure for twenty years.
§ 13.4.2 He had two brothers, the elder of whom wasEumenes, the youngerAttalus.Eumenes had a son of the same name [Eumenes I], who succeeded to the rule ofPergamum, and was by this time sovereign of the places round about, so that he even joined battle withAntiochus the son ofSeleucus nearSardeis and conquered him. He died after a reign of twenty-two years.Attalus, the son ofAttalus andAntiochis, daughter ofAchaeus, succeeded to the throne and was the first to be proclaimed king, after conquering theGalatians in a great battle.Attalus not only became a friend of the Romans but also fought on their side againstPhilip along with the fleet of theRhodians. He died in old age, having reigned as king forty-three years; and he left four sons byApollonis, a woman fromCyzicus,Eumenes,Attalus,Philetaerus, andAthenaeus. Now the two younger sons remained private citizens, butEumenes, the elder of the other two, reigned as king.Eumenes fought on the side of the Romans againstAntiochus the Great and againstPerseus, and he received from the Romans all the country this side theTaurus that had been subject toAntiochus. But before that time the territory ofPergamum did not include many places that extended as far as the sea at theElaitic and Adramyttene Gulfs. He built up the city and plantedNicephorium with a grove, and the other elder brother, from love of splendor, added sacred buildings and libraries and raised the settlement ofPergamum to what it now is. After a reign of forty-nine yearsEumenes left his empire toAttalus, his son byStratonice, the daughter ofAriarathes, king of theCappadocians. He appointed his brotherAttalus as guardian both of his son, who was extremely young, and of the empire. After a reign of twenty-one years, his brother died an old man, having won success in many undertakings; for example, he helpedDemetrius, the son ofSeleucus, to defeat in warAlexander, the son ofAntiochus, and he fought on the side of the Romans against the Pseudo-Philip, and in an expedition againstThrace he defeatedDiegylis the king of theCaeni, and he slewPrusias, having incited his sonNicomedes against him, and he left his empire, under a guardian, toAttalus.Attalus surnamed Philometor, reigned five years, died of disease, and left the Romans his heirs. The Romans proclaimed the country a province, calling itAsia, by the same name as the continent. TheCaicus flows pastPergamum, through theCaicus Plain, as it is called, traversing land that is very fertile and about the best inMysia.
§ 13.4.3 Pergamenians have become famous in my time:Mithridates the son ofMenodotus and ofAdobogion.Menodotus was of the family of the tetrarch of theGalatians, andAdobogion, it is said, was also the concubine of KingMithridates, and for this reason her relatives gave to the child the name ofMithridates, pretending that he was the son of the king. At any rate, he became a friend to the deifiedCaesar and reached so great preferment with him that he was appointed tetrarch from his mothers family and king both of theBosporus and other territories. He was overthrown byAsander, who not only slew KingPharnaces but also took possession of theBosporus.Mithridates, then, has been thought worthy of a great name, as has alsoApollodorus the rhetorician, who wrote the work on Rhetoric and was the leader of the Apollodoreian sect, whatever in the world it is; for numerous philosophies were prevalent, but to pass judgment upon them is beyond my power, and among these are the sects ofApollodorus andTheodorus. But the friendship ofAugustus Caesar has most of all exaltedApollodorus, who was his teacher in the art of speech. AndApollodorus had a notable pupil inDionysius, surnamed Atticus, his fellow-citizen, for he was an able sophist and historian and speech-writer.
§ 13.4.4 As one proceeds from the plain and the city towards the east, one comes to a city calledApollonia, which lies on an elevated site, and also, towards the south, to a mountain range, on crossing which, on the road toSardeis, one comes toThyateira, on the left-hand side, a settlement of theMacedonians, which by some is called the farthermost city of theMysians. On the right isApollonis, which is three hundred stadia distant fromPergamum, and the same distance fromSardeis, and it is named after theCyziceneApollonis. Next one comes to the plain ofHermus and toSardeis. The country to the north ofPergamum is held for the most part by theMysians, I mean the country on the right of theAbaeitae, as they are called, on the borders of which is theEpictetus as far asBithynia.
§ 13.4.5 Sardeis is a great city, and, though of later date than theTrojan times, is nevertheless old, and has a strong citadel. It was the royal city of theLydians, whom the poet calls Meionians; and later writers call themMaeonians, some identifying them with theLydians and others representing them as different, but it is better to call them the same people. AboveSardeis is situated Mt.Tmolus, a blest mountain, with a look-out on its summit, an arcade of white marble, a work of thePersians, whence there is a view of the plains below all round, particularly theCayster Plain. And round it dwellLydians andMysians andMacedonians. ThePactolus River flows from Mt.Tmolus; in early times a large quantity of gold-dust was brought down in it, whence, it is said, arose the fame of the riches ofCroesus and his descendants. But the gold-dust has given out. ThePactolus runs down into theHermus, into which also theHyllus, now called thePhrygius, empties. These three, and other less significant rivers with them, meet and empty into the sea nearPhocaea, asHerodotus says. TheHermus rises inMysia, in the sacred mountainDindymene, and flows through the Catacecaumene country into the territory ofSardeis and the contiguous plains, as I have already said, to the sea. Below the city lie the plain ofSardeis and that of theCyrus and that of theHermus and that of theCayster, which are contiguous to one another and are the best of all plains. Within forty stadia from the city one comes toGygaea, which is mentioned by the poet, the name of which was later changed toColoe, where is the sanctuary of ColoenianArtemis, which is characterized by great holiness. They say that at the festivals here the baskets dance, though I do not know why in the world they talk marvels rather than tell the truth.
§ 13.4.6 The verses ofHomer are about as follows: "Mnesthles andAntiphus, the two sons ofTalaemenes, whose mother was LakeGygaea, who led also the Meionians, who were born at the foot ofTmolus; but some add the following fourth verse: "At the foot of snowyTmolus, in the fertile land of Hyde. But there is no Hyde to be found in the country of theLydians. Some also putTychius there, of whom the poet says, "far the best of workers in hide, who lived in Hyde. And they add that the place is woody and subject to strokes of lightning, and that theArimi live there, for afterHomer's verse, "in the land of theArimi where men say is the couch ofTyphon, they insert the words, "in a wooded place, in the fertile land of Hyde. But others lay the scene of this myth inCilicia, and some lay it inSyria, and still others in thePithecussae Islands, who say that among theTyrrhenians "pitheci" are called "arimi." Some callSardeis Hyde, while others call its acropolis Hyde. But theScepsian thinks that those writers are most plausible who place theArimi in the Catacecaumene country inMysia. ButPindar associates thePithecussae which lie off theCymaean territory, as also the territory inSicily, with the territory inCilicia, for he says thatTyphon lies beneathAetna: "Once he dwelt in a far-famedCilician cavern; now, however, his shaggy breast is o'er-pressed by the sea-girt shores aboveCumae and bySicily. And again, "round about him liesAetna with her haughty fetters, and again, "but it was fatherZeus that once amongst theArimi, by necessity, alone of the gods, smote monstrousTyphon of the fifty heads. But some understand that the Syrians are Arimi, who are now called the Arimaeans, and that theCilicians inTroy, forced to migrate, settled again inSyria and cut off for themselves what is now calledCilicia.Callisthenes says that theArimi, after whom the neighboring mountains are calledArima, are situated near Mt.Calycadnus and the promontory ofSarpedon near theCorycian cave itself.
§ 13.4.7 Near LakeColoe are the monuments of the kings. AtSardeis is the great mound, on a lofty base, ofAlyattes, built, asHerodotus says, by the common people of the city, most of the work on which was done by prostitutes; and he says that all women of that country prostituted themselves; and some call the tomb ofAlyattes a monument of prostitution. Some report that LakeColoe is an artificial lake, made to receive the overflows which take place when the rivers are full.Hypaepa is a city which one comes to on the descent from Mt.Tmolus to theCayster Plain.
§ 13.4.8 Callisthenes says thatSardeis was captured first by theCimmerians, and then by theTreres and theLycians, as is set forth byCallinus the elegiac poet, and lastly in the time ofCyrus andCroesus. But whenCallinus says that the incursion of theCimmerians was against theEsioneis, at the time of whichSardeis was captured, theScepsian and his followers surmise that the Asioneis were byCallinus called theEsioneis, in the Ionic dialect; for perhapsMeionia, he says, was calledAsia, and accordinglyHomer likewise says, "on the Asian mead about the streams of theCayster. The city was later restored in a notable way because of the fertility of its territory, and was inferior to none of its neighbors, though recently it has lost many of its buildings through earthquakes. However, the forethought ofTiberius, our present ruler, has, by his beneficence, restored not only this city but many others — I mean all the cities that shared in the same misfortune at about the same time.
§ 13.4.9 Notable men of the same family were born atSardeis: the two Diodoruses, the orators, of whom the elder was calledZonas, a man who many times pleaded the cause ofAsia; and at the time of the attack of KingMithridates, he was accused of trying to cause the cities to revolt from him, but in his defence he acquitted himself of the slander. The youngerDiodorus, who was a friend of mine, is the author, not only of many historical treatises, but also of melic and other poems, which display full well the ancient style of writing.Xanthus, the ancient historian, is indeed called aLydian, but whether or not he was fromSardeis I do not know.
§ 13.4.10 After theLydians come theMysians; and the city Philadelphia, ever subject to earthquakes. Incessantly the walls of the houses are cracked, different parts of the city being thus affected at different times. For this reason but few people live in the city, and most of them spend their lives as farmers in the country, since they have a fertile soil. Yet one may be surprised at the few, that they are so fond of the place when their dwellings are so insecure; and one might marvel still more at those who founded the city.
§ 13.4.11 After this region one comes to the Catacecaumene country, as it is called, which has a length of five hundred stadia and a breadth of four hundred, whether it should be calledMysia orMeionia (for both names are used); the whole of it is without trees except the vine that produces the Catacecaumenite wine, which in quality is inferior to none of the notable wines. The surface of the plain is covered with ashes, and the mountainous and rocky country is black, as though from conflagration. Now some conjecture that this resulted from thunderbolts and from fiery subterranean outbursts, and they do not hesitate to lay there the scene of the mythical story ofTyphon; andXanthus adds that a certain Arimus was king of this region; but it is not reasonable to suppose that all that country was burnt all at once by reason of such disturbances, but rather by reason of an earth-born fire, the sources of which have now been exhausted. Three pits are to be seen there, which are called "bellows," and they are forty stadia distant from each other. Above them lie rugged hills, which are reasonably supposed to have been heaped up by the hot masses blown forth from the earth. That such soil should be well adapted to the vine one might assume from the land ofCatana, which was heaped with ashes and now produces excellent wine in great plenty. Some writers, judging from places like this, wittily remark that there is good reason for callingDionysus "Pyrigenes."
§ 13.4.12 The parts situated next to this region towards the south as far as theTaurus are so inwoven with one another that thePhrygian and theCarian and theLydian parts, as also those of theMysians, since they merge into one another, are hard to distinguish. To this confusion no little has been contributed by the fact that the Romans did not divide them according to tribes, but in another way organized their jurisdictions, within which they hold their popular assemblies and their courts. Mt.Tmolus is a quite contracted mass of mountain and has only a moderate circumference, its limits lying within the territory of theLydians themselves; but the Mesogis extends in the opposite direction as far asMycale, beginning atCelaenae, according toTheopompus. And therefore some parts of it are occupied by thePhrygians, I mean the parts nearCelaenae andApameia, and other parts byMysians andLydians, and other parts byCarians andIonians. So, also, the rivers, particularly theMaeander, form the boundary between some of the tribes, but in cases where they flow through the middle of countries they make accurate distinction difficult. And the same is to be said of the plains that are situated on either side of the mountainous territory and of the river-land. Neither should I, perhaps, attend to such matters as closely as a surveyor must, but sketch them only so far as they have been transmitted by my predecessors.
§ 13.4.13 Contiguous on the east to theCayster Plain, which lies between the Mesogis and theTmolus, is the Cilbian Plain. It is extensive and well settled and has a fertile soil. Then comes theHyrcanian Plain, a name given it by thePersians, who broughtHyrcanian colonists there (the Plain ofCyrus, likewise, was given its name by thePersians). Then come the Peltine Plain (we are now inPhrygian territory) and the Cillanian and the Tabene Plains, which have towns with a mixed population ofPhrygians, these towns also containing aPisidian element; and it is after these that the plains themselves were named.
§ 13.4.14 When one crosses over the Mesogis, between theCarians and the territory ofNysa, which latter is a country on the far side of theMaeander extending to Cibyratis andCabalis, one comes to certain cities. First, near the Mesogis, oppositeLaodiceia, toHierapolis, where are the hot springs and thePlutonion, both of which have something marvellous about them; for the water of the springs so easily congeals and changes into stone that people conduct streams of it through ditches and thus make stone fences consisting of single stones, while thePlutonion, below a small brow of the mountainous country that lies above it, is an opening of only moderate size, large enough to admit a man, but it reaches a considerable depth, and it is enclosed by a quadrilateral handrail, about half a plethrum in circumference, and this space is full of a vapour so misty and dense that one can scarcely see the ground. Now to those who approach the handrail anywhere round the enclosure the air is harmless, since the outside is free from that vapor in calm weather, for the vapor then stays inside the enclosure, but any animal that passes inside meets instant death. At any rate,bulls that are led into it fall and are dragged out dead; and I threw in sparrows and they immediately breathed their last and fell. But theGalli, who are eunuchs, pass inside with such impunity that they even approach the opening, bend over it, and descend into it to a certain depth, though they hold their breath as much as they can (for I could see in their countenances an indication of a kind of suffocating attack, as it were), — whether this immunity belongs to all who are maimed in this way or only to those round the sanctuary, or whether it is because of divine providence, as would be likely in the case of divine obsessions, or whether it is, the result of certain physical powers that are antidotes against the vapor. The changing of water into stone is said also to be the case with the rivers inLaodiceia, although their water is potable. The water atHierapolis is remarkably adapted also to the dyeing of wool, so that wool dyed with the roots rival those dyed with the coccus or with the marine purple. And the supply of water is so abundant that the city is full of natural baths.
§ 13.4.15 AfterHierapolis one comes to the parts on the far side of theMaeander; I have already described those roundLaodiceia andAphrodisias and those extending as far asCarura. The next thereafter are the parts towards the west, I mean the city of theAntiocheians on theMaeander, where one finds himself already inCaria, and also the parts towards the south, I mean GreaterCibyra andSinda andCabalis, extending as far as theTaurus andLycia. NowAntiocheia is a city of moderate size, and is situated on theMaeander itself in the region that lies nearPhrygia, and there is a bridge over the river.Antiocheia has considerable territory on each side of the river, which is everywhere fertile, and it produces in greatest quantities the 'Antiocheian' dried fig, as it is called, though they also name the same fig "three-leaved." This region, too, is much subject to earthquakes. Among these people arose a famous sophist,Diotrephes, whose complete course was taken byHybreas, who became the greatest orator of my time.
§ 13.4.16 TheCabaleis are said to be theSolymi; at any rate, the hill that lies above the fortress of theTermessians is calledSolymus, and theTermessians themselves are calledSolymi. Near by is the Palisade ofBellerophon, and also the tomb of his sonPeisander, who fell in the battle against theSolymi. This account agrees also with the words of the poet, for he says ofBellerophon, 'next he fought with the gloriousSolymi, and of his son, 'andPeisander his son was slain byAres, insatiate of war, when he was fighting with theSolymi.'Termessus is aPisidian city, which lies directly aboveCibyra and very near it.
§ 13.4.17 It is said that theCibyratae are descendants of theLydians who took possession ofCabalis, and later of the neighboringPisidians, who settled there and transferred the city to another site, a site very strongly fortified and about one hundred stadia in circuit. It grew strong through its good laws; and its villages extended alongside it fromPisidia and the neighboringMilyas as far asLycia and thePeraea of theRhodians. Three bordering cities were added to it,Bubon,Balbura, andOenoandon, and the union was called Tetrapolis, each of the three having one vote, butCibyra two; forCibyra could send forth thirty thousand foot-soldiers and two thousandhorse. It was always ruled by tyrants; but still they ruled it with moderation. However, the tyranny ended in the time ofMoagetes, whenMurena overthrew it and includedBalbura andBubon within the territory of theLycians. But none the less the jurisdiction ofCibyra is rated among the greatest inAsia. TheCibyratae used four languages, thePisidian, that of theSolymi, Greek, and that of theLydians; but there is not even a trace of the language of theLydians inLydia. The easy embossing of iron is a peculiar thing atCibyra.Milya is the mountain range extending from the narrows atTermessus and from the pass that leads over through them to the region inside theTaurus towardsIsinda, as far asSagalassus and the country of theApameians.
§ 14.1.1 Ionia It remains for me to speak of theIonians and theCarians and the seaboard outside theTaurus, which last is occupied byLycians,Pamphylians, andCilicians; for in this way I can finish my entire description of the peninsula, the isthmus of which, as I was saying, is the road which leads over from thePontic Sea to theIssian Sea.
§ 14.1.2 The coasting voyage roundIonia is about three thousand four hundred and thirty stadia, this distance being so great because of the gulfs and the fact that the country forms a peninsula of unusual extent; but the distance in a straight line across the isthmus is not great. For instance, merely the distance fromEphesus toSmyrna is a journey, in a straight line, of three hundred and twenty stadia, for the distance toMetropolis is one hundred and twenty stadia and the remainder toSmyrna, whereas the coasting voyage is but slightly short of two thousand two hundred. Be that as it may, the bounds of theIonian coast extend from thePoseidium of theMilesians, and from theCarian frontiers, as far asPhocaea and theHermus River, which latter is the limit of theIonian seaboard .
§ 14.1.3 Pherecydes says concerning this seaboard thatMiletus andMyus and the parts roundMycale andEphesus were in earlier times occupied byCarians, and that the coast next thereafter, as far asPhocaea andChios andSamos, which were ruled byAncaeus, was occupied byLeleges, but that both were driven out by theIonians and took refuge in the remaining parts ofCaria. He says thatAndroclus, legitimate son ofCodrus the king ofAthens, was the leader of theIonian colonization, which was later than theAeolian, and that he became the founder ofEphesus; and for this reason, it is said, the royal seat of theIonians was established there. And still now the descendants of his family are called kings; and they have certain honors, I mean the privilege of front seats at the games and of wearing purple robes as insignia of royal descent, and staff instead of sceptre, and of the superintendence of the sacrifices in honor of theEleusinianDemeter.Miletus was founded byNeleus, aPylian by birth. TheMessenians and thePylians pretend a kind of kinship with one another, according to which the more recent poets callNestor aMessenian; and they say that many of thePylians accompaniedMelanthus, father ofCodrus, and his followers toAthens, and that, accordingly, all this people sent forth the colonizing expedition in common with theIonians. There is an altar, erected byNeleus, to be seen on thePoseidium.Myus was founded byCydrelus, bastard son ofCodrus;Lebedus byAndropompus, who seized a place called Artis;Colophon byAndraemon aPylian, according toMimnermus in hisNanno;Priene byAepytus the son ofNeleus, and then later byPhilotas, who brought a colony fromThebes;Teos, at first byAthamas, for which reason it is byAnacreon called Athamantis, and at the time of theIonian colonization byNauclus, bastard son ofCodrus, and after him byApoecus andDamasus, who wereAthenians, and Geres, aBoeotian;Erythrae byCnopus, he too a bastard son ofCodrus;Phocaea by theAthenians underPhilogenes;Clazomenae byParalus;Chios byEgertius, who brought with him a mixed crowd;Samos byTembrion, and then later byProcles.
§ 14.1.4 These are the twelveIonian cities, but at a later timeSmyrna was added, being induced by theEphesians to join theIonian League; for theEphesians were fellow-inhabitants of theSmyrnaeans in ancient times, whenEphesus was also called Smyrna. AndCallinus somewhere so names it, when he calls theEphesians Smyrnaeans in the prayer toZeus,"and pity the Smyrnaeans; and again, "remember, if ever theSmyrnaeans burnt up beautiful thighs ofoxen in sacrifice to thee. Smyrna was anAmazon who took possession ofEphesus; and hence the name both of the inhabitants and of the city, just as certain of theEphesians were called Sisyrbitae after Sisyrbe. Also a certain place belonging toEphesus was called Smyrna, asHipponax plainly indicates: "He lived behind the city in Smyrna between Tracheia and Lepra Acte;" for the name Lepra Acte was given to Mt. Prion, which lies above the present city and has on it a part of the city's wall. At any rate, the possessions behind Prion are still now referred to as in the "Opistholeprian" territory, and the country alongside the mountain roundCoressus was called "Tracheia." The city was in ancient times round the Athenaion, which is now outside the city near the Hypelaeus, as it is called; so that Smyrna was near the present gymnasium, behind the present city, but between Tracheia and Lepra Acte. On departing from theEphesians, theSmyrnaeans marched to the place whereSmyrna now is, which was in the possession of theLeleges, and, having driven them out, they founded the ancientSmyrna, which is about twenty stadia distant from the presentSmyrna. But later, being driven out by theAeolians, they fled for refuge toColophon, and then with theColophonians returned to their own land and took it back, asMimnermus tells us in hisNanno, after recalling thatSmyrna was always an object of contention: "After we leftPylus, the steep city ofNeleus, we came by ship to lovelyAsia, and with our overweening might settled in belovedColophon, taking the initiative in grievous insolence. And from there, setting out from the Asteeis River, by the will of the gods we tookAeolianSmyrna." So much, then, on this subject. But I must again go over the several parts in detail, beginning with the principal places, those where the foundings first took place, I mean those roundMiletus andEphesus; for these are the best and most famous cities.
§ 14.1.5 Next after thePoseidium of theMilesians, eighteen stadia inland, is the oracle ofApolloDidymeus among theBranchidae. It was set on fire byXerxes, as were also the other sanctuaries, except that atEphesus. TheBranchidae gave over the treasures of the god to thePersian king, and accompanied him in his flight in order to escape punishment for the robbing and the betrayal of the sanctuary. But later theMilesians erected the largest temple in the world, though on account of its size it remained without a roof. At any rate, the circuit of the sacred enclosure holds a village settlement; and there is a magnificent sacred grove both inside and outside the enclosure; and other sacred enclosures contain the oracle and sacred things. Here is laid the scene of the myth ofBranchus and the love ofApollo. It is adorned with costliest offerings consisting of early works of art. Thence to the city is no long journey, by land or by sea.
§ 14.1.6 Ephorus says:Miletus was first founded and fortified above the sea by theCretans, where theMilatos of olden times is now situated, being settled bySarpedon, who brought colonists from theCretanMilatos and named the city after thatMiletus, the place formerly being in the possession of theLeleges; but laterNeleus and his followers fortified the present city. The present city has four harbors, one of which is large enough for a fleet. Many are the achievements of this city, but the greatest is the number of its colonizations; for theEuxinePontus has been colonized everywhere by these people, as also thePropontis and several other regions. At any rate,Anaximenes ofLampsacus says that theMilesians colonized the islandsIcaros andLeros; and, near theHellespont,Limnae in theChersonesus, as alsoAbydus andArisba andPaesus inAsia; andArtace andCyzicus in the island of theCyziceni; andScepsis in the interior of theTroad. I, however, in my detailed description speak of the other cities, which have been omitted by him. BothMilesians andDelians invoke anApollo "Ulius," that is, as god of "health and healing," for the verb "ulein" means "to be healthy"; whence the noun "ule" and the salutation, "Both health and great joy to thee"; forApollo is the god of healing. AndArtemis has her name from the fact that she makes people "Artemeas." And bothHelius andSelene are closely associated with these, since they are the causes of the temperature of the air. And both pestilential diseases and sudden deaths are imputed to these gods.
§ 14.1.7 Notable men were born atMiletus:Thales, one of theSeven Wise Men, the first to begin the science of natural philosophy and mathematics among the Greeks, and his pupilAnaximander, and again the pupil of the latter,Anaximenes, and alsoHecataeus, the author of the History, and, in my time,Aeschines the orator, who remained in exile to the end, since he spoke freely, beyond moderation, beforePompey the Great. But the city was unfortunate, since it shut its gates againstAlexander and was taken by force, as was also the case withHalicarnassus; and also, before that time, it was taken by thePersians. AndCallisthenes says thatPhrynichus the tragic poet was fined a thousand drachmas by theAthenians because he wrote a play entitled The Capture ofMiletus byDareius. The islandLade lies close in front ofMiletus, as do also the isles in the neighborhood of theTragaeae, which afford anchorage forpirates.
§ 14.1.8 Next comes the Latmian Gulf, on which is situated "Heracleia belowLatmus," as it is called, a small town that has an anchoring-place. It was at first calledLatmus, the same name as the mountain that lies above it, whichHecataeus indicates, in his opinion, to be the same as that which by the poet is called "the mountain of thePhtheires" (for he says that the mountain of thePhtheires lies aboveLatmus), though some say that it is Mt.Grium, which is approximately parallel toLatmus and extends inland from Milesia towards the east throughCaria toEuromus and Chalcetores. This mountain lies aboveHeracleia, and at a high elevation. At a slight distance away from it, after one has crossed a little river nearLatmus, there is to be seen the sepulchre ofEndymion, in a cave. Then fromHeracleia toPyrrha, a small town, there is a voyage of about one hundred stadia.
§ 14.1.9 But the voyage fromMiletus toHeracleia, including the sinuosities of the gulfs, is a little more than one hundred stadia, though that fromMiletus toPyrrha, in a straight course, is only thirty — so much longer is the journey along the coast. But in the case of famous places my reader must needs endure the dry part of such geography as this.
§ 14.1.10 The voyage fromPyrrha to the outlet of theMaeander River is fifty stadia, a place which consists of shallows and marshes; and, travelling in rowboats thirty stadia, one comes to the cityMyus, one of the twelveIonian cities, which, on account of its sparse population, has now been incorporated intoMiletus.Xerxes is said to have given this city toThemistocles to supply him with fish,Magnesia to supply him with bread, andLampsacus with wine.
§ 14.1.11 Thence, within four stadia, one comes to a village, theCarian Thymbria, near which is Aornum, a sacred cave, which is calledCharonium, since it emits deadly vapors. Above it liesMagnesia on theMaeander, a colony of theMagnesians ofThessaly and theCretans, of which I shall soon speak.
§ 14.1.12 After the outlets of theMaeander comes the shore ofPriene, above which liesPriene, and also the mountainMycale, which is well supplied with wild animals and with trees. This mountain lies above theSamian territory and forms with it, on the far side of the promontory calledTrogilian, a strait about seven stadia in width.Priene is by some writers called Cadme, sincePhilotas, who founded it, was aBoeotian.Bias, one of theSeven Wise Men, was a native ofPriene, of whomHipponax says "stronger in the pleading of his cases thanBias ofPriene.
§ 14.1.13 Off theTrogilian promontory lies an isle of the same name. Thence the nearest passage across toSounion is one thousand six hundred stadia; on the voyage one has at firstSamos andIcaria andCorsia on the right, and theMelantian Rocks on the left; and the remainder of the voyage is through the midst of theCyclades islands. TheTrogilian promontory itself is a kind of spur of Mt.Mycale. Close toMycale lies another mountain, in theEphesian territory, I mean Mt. Pactyes, in which the Mesogis terminates.
§ 14.1.14 The distance from theTrogilian promontory toSamos is forty stadia.Samos faces the south, both it and its harbor, which latter has a naval station. The greater part of it is on level ground, being washed by the sea, but a part of it reaches up into the mountain that lies above it. Now on the right, as one sails towards the city, is thePoseidium, a promontory which with Mt.Mycale forms the seven-stadia strait; and it has atemple ofPoseidon; and in front of it lies an isle calledNarthecis; and on the left is the suburb near theHeraion, and also theImbrasus River, and theHeraion, an ancient sanctuary and large temple, which is now a picture gallery. Apart from the number of the paintings placed inside, there are other picture galleries and some little temples [naiskoi] full of ancient art. And the area open to the sky is likewise full of most excellent statues. Of these, three of colossal size, the work ofMyron, stood upon one base;Antony took these statues away, butAugustus Caesar restored two of them, those ofAthena andHeracles, to the same base, although he transferred theZeus to theCapitolium, having erected there a small chapel for that statue.
§ 14.1.15 The voyage round the island of theSamians is six hundred stadia. In earlier times, when it was inhabited byCarians, it was calledParthenia, thenAnthemus, then Melamphyllus, and thenSamos, whether after some native hero or after someone who colonized it fromIthaca andCephallenia. Now inSamos there is a promontory approximately facingDrepanum inIcaria which is calledAmpelus, but the entire mountain which makes the whole of the island mountainous is called by the same name. The island does not produce good wine, although good wine is produced by the islands all round, and although most of the whole of the adjacent mainland produces the best of wines, for example,Chios andLesbos andCos. And indeed theEphesian and Metropolitan wines are good; and Mt. Mesogis and Mt.Tmolus and the Catacecaumene country andCnidos andSmyrna and other less significant places produce exceptionally good wine, whether for enjoyment or medicinal purposes. NowSamos is not altogether fortunate in regard to wines, but in all other respects it is a blest country, as is clear from the fact that it became an object of contention in war, and also from the fact that those who praise it do not hesitate to apply to it the proverb that "it produces even birds' milk," asMenander somewhere says. This was also the cause of the establishment of the tyrannies there, and of their enmity against theAthenians.
§ 14.1.16 Now the tyrannies reached their greatest height in the time ofPolycrates and his brotherSyloson.Polycrates was such a brilliant man, both in his good fortune and in his natural ability, that he gained supremacy over the sea; and it is set down, as a sign of his good fortune, that he purposely flung into the sea his ring, a ring of very costly stone and engraving, and that a little later one of the fishermen brought him the very fish that swallowed it; and that when the fish was cut open the ring was found; and that on learning this the king of theEgyptians, it is said, declared in a kind of prophetic way that any man who had been exalted so highly in welfare would shortly come to no happy end of life; and indeed this is what happened, for he was captured by treachery by the satrap of thePersians and hanged.Anacreon the melic poet lived in companionship withPolycrates; and indeed the whole of his poetry is full of his praises. It was in his time, as we are told, thatPythagoras, seeing that the tyranny was growing in power, left the city and went off toEgypt andBabylon, to satisfy his fondness for learning; but when he came back and saw that the tyranny still endured, he set sail forItaly and lived there to the end of his life. So much forPolycrates.
§ 14.1.17 Syloson was left a private citizen by his brother, but to gratifyDareius, the son ofHystaspes, he gave him a robe whichDareius desired when he saw him wearing it; andDareius at that time was not yet king, but whenDareius became king,Syloson received as a return-gift the tyranny ofSamos. But he ruled so harshly that the city became depopulated; and thence arose the proverb, "by the will ofSyloson there is plenty of room.
§ 14.1.18 TheAthenians at first sentPericles as general and with himSophocles the poet, who by a siege put the disobedientSamians in bad plight; but later they sent two thousand allottees from their own people, among whom wasNeocles, the father ofEpicurus the philosopher, a schoolmaster as they call him. And indeed it is said thatEpicurus grew up here and inTeos, and that he became an ephebus atAthens, and thatMenander the comic poet became an ephebus at the same time.Creophylus, also, was aSamian, who, it is said, once entertainedHomer and received as a gift from him the inscription of the poem called The Capture ofOichalia. ButCallimachus clearly indicates.the contrary in an epigram of his, meaning thatCreophylus composed the poem, but that it was ascribed toHomer because of the story of the hospitality shown him: "I am the toil of theSamian, who once entertained in his house the divineHomer. I bemoanEurytus, for all that he suffered, and golden-haired Ioleia. I am calledHomer's writing. ForCreophylus, dearZeus, this is a great achievement. Some callCreophylusHomer's teacher, while others say that it was notCreophylus, butAristeas theProconnesian, who was his teacher.
§ 14.1.19 AlongsideSamos lies the islandIcaria, whence was derived the name of theIcarian Sea. This island is named afterIcarus the son ofDaedalus, who, it is said, having joined his father in flight, both being furnished with wings, flew away fromCrete and fell here, having lost control of their course; for, they add, on rising too close to the sun, his wings slipped off, since the wax melted. The whole island is three hundred stadia in perimeter; it has no harbors, but only places of anchorage, the best of which is calledHisti. It has a promontory which extends towards the west. There is also on the island a sanctuary ofArtemis, calledTauropolium; and a small townOinoe; and another small townDracanum, bearing the same name as the promontory on which it is situated and having near by a place of anchorage. The promontory is eighty stadia distant from the promontory of theSamians calledCantharius, which is the shortest distance between the two. At the present time, however, it has but few inhabitants left, and is used bySamians mostly for the grazing ofcattle.
§ 14.1.20 After theSamian strait, near Mt.Mycale, as one sails toEphesus, one comes, on the right, to the seaboard of theEphesians; and a part of this seaboard is held by theSamians. First on the seaboard is thePanionium, lying three stadia above the sea where the Pan-Ionian, a common festival of theIonians, are held, and where sacrifices are performed in honor of the HeliconianPoseidon; andPrienians serve as priests at this sacrifice, but I have spoken of them in my account of thePeloponnesus. Then comesNeapolis, which in earlier times belonged to theEphesians, but now belongs to theSamians, who gave in exchange for itMarathesium, the more distant for the nearer place. Then comesPygela, a small town, with a sanctuary ofArtemisMunychia, founded byAgamemnon and inhabited by a part of his troops; for it is said that some of his soldiers became afflicted with a disease of the buttocks and were called "diseased-buttocks," and that, being afflicted with this disease, they stayed there, and that the place thus received this appropriate name. Then comes the harbor called Panormus, with a sanctuary of theEphesianArtemis; and then the cityEphesus. On the same coast, slightly above the sea, is alsoOrtygia, which is a magnificent grove of all kinds of trees, of the cypress most of all. It is traversed by the Cenchrius River, whereLeto is said to have bathed herself after her travail. For here is the mythical scene of the birth, and of the nurseOrtygia, and of the holy place where the birth took place, and of the olive tree near by, where the goddess is said first to have taken a rest after she was relieved from her travail. Above the grove lies Mt. Solmissus, where, it is said, theCuretes stationed themselves, and with the din of their arms frightenedHera out of her wits when she was jealously spying onLeto, and when they helpedLeto to conceal fromHera the birth of her children. There are several temples in the place, some ancient and others built in later times; and in the ancient temples are many ancient wooden images [xoana], but in those of later times there are works ofScopas; for example,Leto holding a sceptre andOrtygia standing beside her, with a child in each arm. A general festival is held there annually; and by a certain custom the youths vie for honor, particularly in the splendor of their banquets there. At that time, also, a special college of theCuretes holds symposiums and performs certain mystic sacrifices.
§ 14.1.21 The city ofEphesus was inhabited both byCarians and byLeleges, butAndroclus drove them out and settled the most of those who had come with him round the Athenaion and the Hypelaeus, though he also included a part of the country situated on the slopes of Mt.Coressus. NowEphesus was thus inhabited until the time ofCroesus, but later the people came down from the mountainside and abode round the present sanctuary until the time ofAlexander.Lysimachus built a wall round the present city, but the people were not agreeably disposed to change their abodes to it; and therefore he waited for a downpour of rain and himself took advantage of it and blocked the sewers so as to inundate the city; and the inhabitants were then glad to make the change. He named the city after his wifeArsinoe; the old name, however, prevailed. There was a senate, which was conscripted; and with these were associated theEpicleti, as they were called, who administered all the affairs of the city.
§ 14.1.22 As for thetemple ofArtemis, its first architect wasChersiphron; and then another man made it larger. But when it was set on fire by a certainHerostratus, the citizens erected another and better one, having collected the ornaments of the women and their own individual belongings, and having sold also the pillars of the former temple. Testimony is borne to these facts by the decrees that were made at that time.Artemidorus says:Timaeus ofTauromenium, being ignorant of these decrees and being any way an envious and slanderous fellow (for which reason he was also calledEpitimaeus), says that they exacted means for the restoration of the temple from the treasures deposited in their care by thePersians; but there were no treasures on deposit in their care at that time, and, even if there had been, they would have been burned along with the temple; and after the fire, when the roof was destroyed, who could have wished to keep deposits of treasure lying in a sacred enclosure that was open to the sky? NowAlexander,Artemidorus adds, promised theEphesians to pay all expenses, both past and future, on condition that he should have the credit therefor on the inscription, but they were unwilling, just as they would have been far more unwilling to acquire glory by sacrilege and temple-plundering. AndArtemidorus praises theEphesian who said to the king that it was inappropriate for a god to dedicate offerings to gods.
§ 14.1.23 After the completion of thetemple ofArtemis, which, he says, was the work ofCheirocrates (the same man who builtAlexandreia and the same man who proposed toAlexander to fashion Mt.Athos into his likeness, representing him as pouring a libation from a kind of ewer into a broad bowl, and to make two cities, one on the right of the mountain and the other on the left, and a river flowing from one to the other) — after the completion of the temple, he says, the great number of dedications in general were secured by means of the high honor they paid their artists, but the whole of the altar was filled, one might say, with the works ofPraxiteles. They showed me also some of the works ofThrason, who made the chapel ofHecate, the waxen image ofPenelope, and the old woman Eurycleia. They had eunuchs as priests, whom they called Megabyzi. And they were always in quest of persons from other places who were worthy of this preferment, and they held them in great honor. And it was obligatory for maidens to serve as colleagues with them in their priestly office. But though at the present some of their usages are being preserved, yet others are not; but the sanctuary remains a place of refuge, the same as in earlier times, although the limits of the refuge have often been changed; for example, whenAlexander extended them for a stadium, and whenMithridates shot an arrow from the corner of the roof and thought it went a little farther than a stadium, and whenAntony doubled this distance and included within the refuge a part of the city. But this extension of the refuge proved harmful, and put the city in the power of criminals; and it was therefore nullified byAugustus Caesar.
§ 14.1.24 Ephesus has both an arsenal and a harbor. The mouth of the harbor was made narrower by the engineers, but they, along with the king who ordered it, were deceived as to the result, I meanAttalus Philadelphus; for he thought that the entrance would be deep enough for large merchant vessels — as also the harbor itself, which formerly had shallow places because of the silt deposited by theCayster River — if a mole were thrown up at the mouth, which was very wide, and therefore ordered that the mole should be built. But the result was the opposite, for the silt, thus hemmed in, made the whole of the harbor, as far as the mouth, more shallow. Before this time the ebb and flow of the tides would carry away the silt and draw it to the sea outside. Such, then, is the harbor; and the city, because of its advantageous situation in other respects, grows daily, and is the largest emporium inAsia this side theTaurus.
§ 14.1.25 Notable men have been born in this city: in ancient times,Heracleitus the Obscure, as he is called; andHermodorus, concerning whomHeracleitus himself says: "It were right for theEphesians from youth upwards to be hanged, who banished their most useful man, saying: 'Let no man of us be most useful; otherwise, let him be elsewhere and with other people.'"Hermodorus is reputed to have written certain laws for the Romans. AndHipponax the poet was fromEphesus; and so wereParrhasius the painter andApelles, and more recentlyAlexander the orator, surnamed Lychnus, who was a statesman, and wrote history, and left behind him poems in which he describes the position of the heavenly bodies and gives a geographic description of the continents, each forming the subject of a poem.
§ 14.1.26 After the outlet of theCayster River comes a lake that runs inland from the sea, called Selinusia; and next comes another lake that is confluent with it, both affording great revenues. Of these revenues, though sacred, the kings deprived the goddess, but the Romans gave them back; and again the tax-gatherers forcibly converted the tolls to their own use; but whenArtemidorus was sent on an embassy, as he says, he got the lakes back for the goddess, and he also won the decision over Heracleotis, which was in revolt, his case being decided atRome; and in return for this the city erected in the sanctuary a golden image of him. In the innermost recess of the lake there is a sanctuary of a king, which is said to have been built byAgamemnon.
§ 14.1.27 Then one comes to the mountain Gallesius, and toColophon, anIonian city, and to the sacred precinct ofApolloClarius, where there was once an ancient oracle. The story is told thatCalchas the prophet, withAmphilochus the son ofAmphiaraus, went there on foot on his return fromTroy, and that having met nearClarus a prophet superior to himself,Mopsus, the son ofManto, the daughter ofTeiresias, he died of grief. NowHesiod revises the myth as follows, makingCalchas propound toMopsus this question: "I am amazed in my heart at all these figs on this wild fig tree, small though it is; can you tell me the number? And he makesMopsus reply: "They are ten thousand in number, and their measure is a medimnus; but there is one over, which you cannot put in the measure. "Thus he spake,"Hesiod adds, "and the number the measure could hold proved true. And then the eyes ofCalchas were closed by the sleep of death. ButPherecydes says that the question propounded byCalchas was in regard to a pregnantsow, how manypigs she carried, and thatMopsus said, "three, one of which is a female," and that whenMopsus proved to have spoken the truth,Calchas died of grief. Some say thatCalchas propounded the question in regard to thesow, but thatMopsus propounded the question in regard to the wild fig tree, and that the latter spoke the truth but that the former did not, and died of grief, and in accordance with a certain oracle.Sophocles tells the oracle in his Reclaiming ofHelen, thatCalchas was destined to die when he met a prophet superior to himself, but he transfers the scene of the rivalry and of the death ofCalchas toCilicia. Such are the ancient stories.
§ 14.1.28 TheColophonians once possessed notable naval and cavalry forces, in which latter they were so far superior to the others that wherever in wars that were hard to bring to an end, the cavalry of theColophonians served as ally, the war came to an end; whence arose the proverb, "he putColophon to it," which is quoted when a sure end is put to any affair. NativeColophonians, among those of whom we have record, were:Mimnermus, who was both a flute-player and elegiac poet;Xenophanes, the natural philosopher, who composed the "Silli" in verse; andPindar speaks also of a certainPolymnastus as one of the famous musicians: "Thou knowest the voice, common to all, ofPolymnastus theColophonian. And some say thatHomer was from there. On a straight voyage it is seventy stadia fromEphesus, but if one includes the sinuosities of the gulfs it is one hundred and twenty.
§ 14.1.29 AfterColophon one comes to the mountainCoracius and to an isle sacred toArtemis, whither deer, it has been believed, swim across and give birth to their young. Then comesLebedus, which is one hundred and twenty stadia distant fromColophon. This is the meeting-place and settlement of all the Dionysiac artists inIonia as far as theHellespont; and this is the place where both games and a general festal assembly are held every year in honor ofDionysus. They formerly lived inTeos, the city of theIonians that comes next afterColophon, but when the sedition broke out they fled for refuge toEphesus. And whenAttalus settled them inMyonnesus betweenTeos andLebedus theTeians sent an embassy to beg of the Romans not to permitMyonnesus to be fortified against them; and they migrated toLebedus, whose inhabitants gladly received them because of the dearth of population by which they were then afflicted.Teos, also, is one hundred and twenty stadia distant fromLebedus; and in the intervening distance there is an island Aspis, by some calledArconnesus. AndMyonnesus is settled on a height that forms a peninsula.
§ 14.1.30 Teos also is situated on a peninsula; and it has a harbor.Anacreon the melic poet was fromTeos; in whose time theTeians abandoned their city and migrated to,Abdera, a Thracian city, being unable to bear the insolence of thePersians; and hence the verse in reference toAbdera."Abdera, beautiful colony of theTeians. But some of them returned again in later times. As I have already said,Apellicon also was aTeian; andHecataeus the historian was from the same city. And there is also another harbor to the north, thirty stadia distant from the city, called Gerrhaeidae.
§ 14.1.31 Then one comes to Chalcideis, and to the isthmus of the Chersonesus, belonging to theTeians andErythraeans. Now the latter people live this side the isthmus, but theTeians andClazomenians live on the isthmus itself; for the southern side of the isthmus, I mean the Chalcideis, is occupied byTeians, but the northern byClazomenians, where their territory joins theErythraean Sea. At the beginning of the isthmus lies the place calledHypocremnus, which lies between theErythraean Sea territory this side the isthmus and that of theClazomenians on the other side. Above the Chalcideis is situated a sacred precinct consecrated toAlexander the son ofPhilip; and games, called the Alexandreia, are proclaimed by the general assembly of theIonians and are celebrated there. The passage across the isthmus from the sacred precinct ofAlexander and from the Chalcideis toHypocremnus is fifty stadia, but the voyage round by sea is more than one thousand. Somewhere about the middle of the circuit isErythrae, anIonian city, which has a harbor, and also four isles lying off it, calledHippi.
§ 14.1.32 Before coming toErythrae, one comes first to a small townErae belonging to theTeians; and then toCorycus, a high mountain, and to a harbor at the foot of it,Casystes, and to another harbor calledErythras, and to several others in order thereafter. The waters along the coast of Mt.Corycus, they say, were everywhere the haunt ofpirates, theCorycaeans, as they are called, who had found a new way of attacking vessels; for, they say, theCorycaeans would scatter themselves among the harbors, follow up the merchants whose vessels lay at anchor in them, and overhear what cargoes they had aboard and whither they were bound, and then come together and attack the merchants after they had put to sea and plunder their vessels; and hence it is that we call every person who is a busybody and tries to overhear private and secret conversations aCorycaeans; and that we say in a proverb: "Well then, theCorycaean was listening to this, when one thinks that he is doing or saying something in secret, but fails to keep it hidden because of persons who spy on him and are eager to learn what does not concern them.
§ 14.1.33 After Mt.Corycus one comes toHalonnesos, a small island. Then toArgennum, a promontory of theErythraean territory; it is very close to the Poseidium of theChians, which latter forms a strait about sixty stadia in width. BetweenErythrae andHypocremnus liesMimas, a lofty mountain, which is well supplied with game and well wooded. Then one comes to a villageCybelia, and to a promontoryMelaena, as it is called, which has a millstone quarry.
§ 14.1.34 Erythrae was the native city ofSibylla, a woman who was divinely inspired and had the gift of prophecy, one of the ancients. And in the time ofAlexander there was another woman who likewise had the gift of prophecy; she was calledAthenais, and was a native of the same city. And, in my time,Heracleides the Herophileian physician, fellow pupil ofApollonius Mys, was born there.
§ 14.1.35 As forChios, the voyage round it along the coast is nine hundred stadia; and it has a city with a good port and with a naval station for eighty ships. On making the voyage round it from the city, with the island on the right, one comes first to the Poseidium. Then toPhanae, a deep harbor, and to atemple ofApollo and a grove of palm trees. Then toNotium, a shore suited to the anchoring of vessels. Then toLaius, this too a shore suited to the anchoring of vessels; whence to the city there is an isthmus of sixty stadia, but the voyage round, which I have just now described, is three hundred and sixty stadia. Then toMelaena, a promontory, opposite to which liesPsyra, an island fifty stadia distant from the promontory, lofty, and having a city of the same name. The circuit of the island is forty stadia. Then one comes to Ariusia, a rugged and harborless country, about thirty stadia in extent, which produces the best of the Grecian wines. Then toPelinaeus, the highest mountain in the island. And the island also has a marble quarry. Famous natives ofChios are:Ion the tragic poet, andTheopompus the historian, andTheocritus the sophist. The two latter were political opponents of one another. TheChians also claimHomer, setting forth as strong testimony that the men calledHomeridae were descendants ofHomer's family; these are mentioned byPindar: "Whence also theHomeridae, singers of deftly woven lays, most often. . . . TheChians at one time possessed also a fleet, and attained to liberty and to maritime empire. The distance fromChios toLesbos, sailing southwards, is about four hundred stadia.
§ 14.1.36 AfterHypocremnus one comes toChytrium, the site on whichClazomenae was situated in earlier times. Then to the presentClazomenae, with eight small islands lying off it that are under cultivation.Anaxagoras, the natural philosopher, an illustrious man and associate ofAnaximenes theMilesian, was aClazomenian. AndArchelaus the natural philosopher andEuripides the poet took his entire course. Then to a sanctuary ofApollo and to hot springs, and to the gulf and the city of theSmyrnaeans.
§ 14.1.37 Next one comes to another gulf, on which is the oldSmyrna, twenty stadia distant from the presentSmyrna. AfterSmyrna had been razed by theLydians, its inhabitants continued for about four hundred years to live in villages. Then they were reassembled into a city byAntigonus, and afterwards byLysimachus, and their city is now the most beautiful of all; a part of it is on a mountain and walled, but the greater part of it is in the plain near the harbor and near theMetroum and near the gymnasium. The division into streets is exceptionally good, in straight lines as far as possible; and the streets are paved with stone; and there are large quadrangular porticoes, with both lower and upper stories. There is also a library; and theHomereium, a quadrangular portico containing a temple and wooden statue ofHomer; for theSmyrnaeans also lay especial claim to the poet; and indeed a bronze coin of theirs is calledHomereium. The riverMeles flows near the walls; and, in addition to the rest of the city's equipment, there is also a harbor that can be closed. But there is one error, not a small one, in the work of the engineers, that when they paved the streets they did not give them underground drainage; instead, filth covers the surface, and particularly during rains, when the cast-off filth is discharged upon the streets. It was here thatDolabella captured by siege, and slew,Trebonius, one of the men who treacherously murdered the deifiedCaesar; and he set free many parts of the city.
§ 14.1.38 AfterSmyrna one comes toLeucae, a small town, which after the death ofAttalus Philometor was caused to revolt byAristonicus, who was reputed to belong to the royal family and intended to usurp the kingdom. Now he was banished fromSmyrna, after being defeated in a naval battle near theCymaean territory by theEphesians, but he went up into the interior and quickly assembled a large number of resourceless people, and also of slaves, invited with a promise of freedom, whom he called Heliopolitae. Now he first fell uponThyateira unexpectedly, and then got possession ofApollonis, and then set his efforts against other fortresses. But he did not last long; the cities immediately sent a large number of troops against him, and they were assisted byNicomedes theBithynian and by the kings of theCappadocians. Then came five Roman ambassadors, and after that an army underPublius Crassus the consul, and after thatMarcus Perpernas, who brought the war to an end, having capturedAristonicus alive and sent him toRome. NowAristonicus ended his life in prison;Perpernas died of disease; andCrassus, attacked by certain people in the neighborhood ofLeucae, fell in battle. AndManius Aquillius came over as consul with ten lieutenants and organized the province into the form of government that still now endures. AfterLeucae one comes toPhocaea, on a gulf, concerning which I have already spoken in my account ofMassalia. Then to the boundaries of theIonians and theAeolians; but I have already spoken of these. In the interior above theIonian Sea board there remain to be described the places in the neighborhood of the road that leads fromEphesus toAntiocheia and theMaeander River. These places are occupied byLydians andCarians mixed with Greeks.
§ 14.1.39 The first city one comes to afterEphesus isMagnesia, which is anAeolian city and is called "Magnesia on theMaeander," for it is situated near that river. But it is much nearer theLethaeus River, which empties into theMaeander and has its beginning in Mt. Pactyes, the mountain in the territory of theEphesians. There is anotherLethaeus inGortyna, and another nearTricce, whereAsclepius is said to have been born, and still another in the country of the WesternLibyans. And the city lies in the plain near the mountain calledThorax, on whichDaphitas the grammarian is said to have been crucified, because he reviled the kings in a distich: "Purpled with stripes, mere filings of the treasure ofLysimachus, ye rule theLydians andPhrygia. It is said that an oracle was given out thatDaphitas should be on his guard against his thorax.
§ 14.1.40 TheMagnetans are thought to be descendants ofDelphians who settled in theDidyman hills, inThessaly, concerning whomHesiod says: "Or as the unwedded virgin who, dwelling on the holyDidyman hills, in theDotian Plain, in front ofAmyrus, bathed her foot in LakeBoebeis. 5 Here was also the sanctuary ofDindymene Mother of the Gods. According to tradition, the wife ofThemistocles, some say his daughter, served as a priestess there. But the sanctuary is not now in existence, because the city has been transferred to another site. In the present city is thesanctuary of ArtemisLeucophryene, which in the size of its temple and in the number of its votive offerings is inferior to the temple atEphesus, but in the harmony and skill shown in the structure of the sacred enclosure is far superior to it. And in size it surpasses all the sacred enclosures inAsia except two, that atEphesus and that atDidymi. In ancient times, also, it came to pass that theMagnetans were utterly destroyed by theTreres, a Cimmerian tribe, although they had for a long time been a prosperous people, but theMilesians took possession of the place in the following year. NowCallinus mentions theMagnetans as still being a prosperous people and as being successful in their war against theEphesians, butArchilochus is obviously already aware of the misfortune that befell them: "to bewail the woes of theThasians, not those of theMagnetans; whence one may judge that he was more recent thanCallinus. AndCallinus recalls another, and earlier, invasion of theCimmerians when he says: "And now the army of theCimmerians, mighty in deeds, advanceth, in which he plainly indicates the capture ofSardeis.
§ 14.1.41 Well-known natives ofMagnesia are:Hegesias the orator, who, more than any other, initiated the Asiatic style, as it is called, whereby he corrupted the establishedAttic custom; andSimus the melic poet, he too a man who corrupted the style handed down by the earlier melic poets and introduced the Simoedia, just as that style was corrupted still more by theLysioedi and theMagoedi, and byCleomachus the pugilist, who, having fallen in love with a certain cinaedus and with a young female slave who was kept as a prostitute by the cinaedus, imitated the style of dialects and mannerisms that was in vogue among the cinaedi.Sotades was the first man to write the talk of the cinaedi; and thenAlexander theAitolian. But though these two men imitated that talk in mere speech,Lysis accompanied it with song; and so didSimus, who was still earlier than he. As forAnaxenor, the citharoede, the theatres exalted him, butAntony exalted him all he possibly could, since he even appointed him exactor of tribute from four cities, giving him a bodyguard of soldiers. Further, his native land greatly increased his honors, having clad him in purple as consecrated toZeusSosipolis, as is plainly indicated in his painted image in the market-place. And there is also a bronze statue of him in the theatre, with the inscription, "Surely this is a beautiful thing, to listen to a singer such as this man is, like unto the gods in voice. But the engraver, missing his guess, left out the last letter of the second verse, the base of the statue not being wide enough for its inclusion; so that he laid the city open to the charge of ignorance, Because of the ambiguity of the writing, as to whether the last word should be taken as in the nominative case or in the dative; for many write the dative case without the iota, and even reject the ordinary usage as being without natural cause.
§ 14.1.42 AfterMagnesia comes the road toTralleis, with Mt. Mesogis on the left, and, at the road itself and on the right, the plain of theMaeander River, which is occupied byLydians andCarians, and byIonians, bothMilesians and Myesians, and also by theAeolians ofMagnesia. And the same kind of topographical account applies as far asNysa andAntiocheia. The city of theTralleians is situated upon a trapezium-shaped site, with a height fortified by nature; and the places all round are well defended. And it is as well peopled as any other city inAsia by people of means; and always some of its men hold the chief places in the province, being called Asiarchs. Among these wasPythodorus, originally a native ofNysa, but he changed his abode toTralleis because of its celebrity; and with only a few others he stood out conspicuously as a friend ofPompey. And he came into possession of the wealth of a king, worth more than two thousand talents, which, though sold by the deifiedCaesar, was redeemed by him through his friendship withPompey and was left by him unimpaired to his children. He was the father ofPythodoris, the present queen inPontus, of whom I have already spoken.Pythodorus, then, flourished in my time, as alsoMenodorus, a man of learning, and otherwise august and grave, who held the priesthood ofZeus Larisaeus. But he was overthrown by a counter-party friendly toDometius Ahenobarbus; and Dometius, relying on his informers, slew him, as guilty of causing the fleet to revolt. Here were born famous orators:Dionysocles and afterwardsDamasus Scombrus.Tralleis is said to have been founded byArgives and by certain TralleianThracians, and hence the name. And the city was ruled for a short time by tyrants, the sons ofCratippus, at the time of theMithridatic war.
§ 14.1.43 Nysa is situated near Mt. Mesogis, for the most part lying upon its slopes; and it is a double city, so to speak, for it is divided by a torrential stream that forms a gorge, which at one place has a bridge over it, joining the two cities, and at another is adorned with an amphitheatre, with a hidden underground passage for the torrential waters. Near the theatre are two heights, below one of which is the gymnasium of youths; and below the other is the market place and the gymnasium for older persons. The plain lies to the south of the city, as it does to the south ofTralleis.
§ 14.1.44 On the road between theTralleians andNysa is a village of theNysaeans, not far from the cityAcharaca, where is thePlutonion, with a luxurious grove and a temple ofPluto andKore, and also theCharonium, a cave that lies above the sacred precinct, by nature wonderful; for they say that those who are diseased and give heed to the cures prescribed by these gods resort thither and live in the village near the cave among experienced priests, who on their behalf sleep in the cave and through dreams prescribe the cures. These are also the men who invoke the healing power of the gods. And they often bring the sick into the cave and leave them there, to remain in quiet, like animals in their lurking-holes, without food for many days. And sometimes the sick give heed also to their own dreams, but still they use those other men, as priests, to initiate them into the mysteries and to counsel them. To all others the place is forbidden and deadly. A festival is celebrated every year atAcharaca; and at that time in particular those who celebrate the festival can see and hear concerning all these things; and at the festival, too, about noon, the boys and young men of the gymnasium, nude and anointed with oil, take up abull and with haste carry him up into the cave; and, when let loose, thebull goes forward a short distance, falls, and breathes out his life.
§ 14.1.45 Thirty stadia fromNysa, after one crosses over Mt.Tmolus and the mountain called Mesogis, towards the region to the south of the Mesogis, there is a place calledLeimon, whither theNysaeans and all the people about go to celebrate their festivals. And not far fromLeimon is an entrance into the earth sacred to the same gods, which is said to extend down as far asAcharaca. The poet is said to name this meadow when he says, "On the Asian meadow"; and they point out a hero-sanctuary ofCayster and a certainAsius, and theCayster River that streams forth near by.
§ 14.1.46 The story is told that three brothers,Athymbrus and Athymbradus and Hydrelus, who came fromLacedemon, founded the three cities [Hydrela] which were named after them, but that the cities later became scantily populated, and that the cityNysa was founded by their inhabitants; but thatAthymbrus is now regarded by them as their original founder.
§ 14.1.47 NearNysa, on the far side of theMaeander River, are situated noteworthy settlements; I meanCoscinia andOrthosia; and this side the river,Briula,Mastaura andAcharaca, and above the city, on the mountain,Aroma (in which the letter rho is short), whence comes the best Mesogitan wine, I mean the Aromian.
§ 14.1.48 Famous men born atNysa are:Apollonius theStoic philosopher, best of the disciples ofPanaetius; andMenecrates, pupil ofAristarchus; andAristodemus, his son, whose entire course, in his extreme old age, I in my youth took atNysa; andSostratus, the brother ofAristodemus, and anotherAristodemus, his cousin, who trainedPompey the Great, proved themselves notable grammarians. But my teacher also taught rhetoric and had two schools, both inRhodes and in his native land, teaching rhetoric in the morning and grammar in the evening; atRome, however, when he was in charge of the children ofPompey the Great, he was content with the teaching of grammar.
§ 14.2.1 Caria Coming now to the far side of theMaeander, the parts that remain to be described are allCarian, since here theLydians are no longer intermingled with theCarians, and the latter occupy all the country by themselves, except that a segment of the seaboard is occupied byMilesians andMyesians. Now the beginning of the seaboard is thePeraea of theRhodians on the sea, and the end of it is thePoseidium of theMilesians; but in the interior are the extremities of theTaurus, extending as far as theMaeander River. For it is said that the mountains situated above theChelidonian islands, as they are called, which islands lie off the confines ofPamphylia andLycia, form the beginning of theTaurus, for thence theTaurus rises to a height; but the truth is that the whole ofLycia, towards the parts outside and on its southern side, is separated by a mountainous ridge of theTaurus from the country of theCibyrans as far as thePeraea of theRhodians. From here the ridge continues, but is much lower and is no longer regarded as a part of theTaurus; neither are the parts outside theTaurus and this side of it so regarded, because of the fact that the eminences and depressions are scattered equally throughout the breadth and the length of the whole country, and present nothing like a wall of partition. The whole of the voyage round the coast, following the sinuosities of the gulfs, is four thousand nine hundred stadia, and merely that round thePeraea of theRhodians is close to fifteen hundred.
§ 14.2.2 ThePeraea of theRhodians begins withDaedala, a place in theRhodian territory, but ends with Mt.Phoenix, as it is called, which is also in theRhodian territory. Off thePeraea lies the islandElaeussa, distant one hundred and twenty stadia fromRhodes. Between the two, as one sails towards the west in a straight line with the coast ofCilicia andPamphylia andLycia, one comes to a gulf calledGlaucus, which has good harbors; then to the Artemisium, a promontory and sanctuary; then to the sacred precinct ofLeto, above which, and above the sea, at a distance of sixty stadia, liesCalynda, a city; then toCaunus and to theCalbis, a river nearCaunus, which is deep and affords passage for merchant vessels; and between the two liesPisilis.
§ 14.2.3 The city has dockyards, and a harbor that can be closed. Above the city, on a height, lies Imbrus, a stronghold. Although the country is fertile, the city is agreed by all to have foul air in summer, as also in autumn, because of the heat and the abundance of fruits. And indeed little tales of the following kind are repeated over and over, thatStratonicus the citharist, seeing that theCaunians were pitiably pale, said that this was the thought of the poet in the verse, "Even as is the generation of leaves, such is that also of men; and when people complained that he was jeering at the city as though it were sickly, he replied, "Would I be so bold as to call this city sickly, where even the corpses walk about?" TheCaunians once revolted from theRhodians, but by a judicial decision of the Romans they were restored to them. And there is extant a speech ofMolon entitled Against theCaunians. It is said that they speak the same language as theCarians, but that they came fromCrete and follow usages of their own.
§ 14.2.4 Next one comes toPhyscus, a small town, which has a harbor and a sacred precinct ofLeto; and then toLoryma, a rugged coast, and to the highest mountain in that part of the country; and on top of the mountain isPhoenix, a stronghold bearing the same name as the mountain; and off the mountain, at a distance of four stadia, liesElaeussa, an island, which is about eight stadia in circuit.
§ 14.2.5 The city of theRhodians lies on the eastern promontory ofRhodes; and it is so far superior to all others in harbors and roads and walls and improvements in general that I am unable to speak of any other city as equal to it, or even as almost equal to it, much less superior to it. It is remarkable also for its good order, and for its careful attention to the administration of affairs of state in general; and in particular to that of naval affairs, whereby it held the mastery of the sea for a long time and overthrew the business ofpiracy, and became a friend to the Romans and to all kings who favoured both the Romans and the Greeks. Consequently it not only has remained autonomous. but also has been adorned with many votive offerings, which for the most part are to be found in the Dionysium and the gymnasium, but partly in other places. The best of these are, first, theColossus ofHelius, of which the author of the iambic verse says, "seven times ten cubits in height, the work ofChares theLindian; but it now lies on the ground, having been thrown down by an earthquake and broken at the knees. In accordance with a certain oracle, the people did not raise it again. This, then, is the most excellent of the votive offerings (at any rate, it is by common agreement one of the Seven Wonders); and there are also the paintings ofProtogenes, hisIalysus and also hisSatyr, the latter standing by a pillar, on top of which stood a male partridge. And at this partridge, as would be natural, the people were so agape when the picture had only recently been set up, that they would behold him with wonder but overlook theSatyr, although the latter was a very great success. But the partridge-breeders were still more amazed, bringing their tame partridges and placing them opposite the painted partridge; for their partridges would make their call to the painting and attract a mob of people. But whenProtogenes saw that the main part of the work had become subordinate, he begged those who were in charge of the sacred precinct to permit him to go there and efface the partridge, and so he did. TheRhodians are concerned for the people in general, although their rule is not democratic; still, they wish to take care of their multitude of poor people. Accordingly, the people are supplied with provisions and the needy are supported by the well-to-do, by a certain ancestral custom; and there are certain liturgies that supply provisions, so that at the same time the poor man receives his sustenance and the city does not run short of useful men, and in particular for the manning of the fleets. As for the roadsteads, some of them were kept hidden and forbidden to the people in general; and death was the penalty for any person who spied on them or passed inside them. And here too, as inMassalia andCyzicus, everything relating to the architects, the manufacture of instruments of war, and the stores of arms and everything else are objects of exceptional care, and even more so than anywhere else.
§ 14.2.6 TheRhodians, like the people ofHalicarnassus andCnidus andCos, areDorians; for of theDorians who foundedMegara after the death ofCodrus, some remained there, others took part withAlthaemenes theArgive in the colonization ofCrete, and others were distributed toRhodes and to the cities just now mentioned. But these events are later than those mentioned byHomer, forCnidus andHalicarnassus were not yet in existence, althoughRhodes andCos were; but they were inhabited byHeracleidae. Now whenTlepolemus had grown to manhood, "he forthwith slew his own father's dear uncle,Licymnius, who was then growing old; and straightway he built him ships, and when he had gathered together a great host he went in flight. The poet then adds, "he came toRhodes in his wanderings, where his people settled in three divisions by tribes; and he names the cities of that time,"Lindus,Ialysus, andCameirus white with chalk, the city of theRhodians having not yet been founded. The poet, then, nowhere mentionsDorians by name here, but perhaps indicatesAeolians andBoeotians, if it be true thatHeracles andLicymnius settled there. But if, as others say,Tlepolemus set forth fromArgos andTiryns, even so the colonization thence could not have beenDorian, for it must have taken place before the return of theHeracleidae. And of theCoans, also,Homer says," were led byPheidippus andAntiphus, the two sons of lordThessalus, son ofHeracles and these names indicate theAeolian stock of people rather than theDorian.
§ 14.2.7 In earlier timesRhodes was calledOphiussa and Stadia, and then Telchinis, after theTelchines, who took up their abode in the island. Some say that theTelchines are "maligners" and "sorcerers," who pour the water of theStyx mixed with sulphur upon animals and plants in order to destroy them. But others, on the contrary, say that since they excelled in workmanship they were "maligned" by rival workmen and thus received their bad reputation; and that they first came fromCrete toCypros, and then toRhodes; and that they were the first to work iron and brass, and in fact fabricated the scythe forCronus. Now I have already described them before, but the number of the myths about them causes me to resume their description, filling up the gaps, if I have omitted anything.
§ 14.2.8 After theTelchines, theHeliadae, according to the mythical story, took possession of the island; and to one of these,Cercaphus, and to his wifeCydippe, were born children who founded the cities that are named after them,"Lindus,Ialysus, andCameirus white with chalk. But some say thatTlepolemus founded them and gave them the same names as those of certain daughters ofDanaus.
§ 14.2.9 The present city was founded at the time of thePeloponnesian War by the same architect, as they say, who founded thePeiraeus. But thePeiraeus no longer endures, since it was badly damaged, first by theLacedemonians, who tore down the two walls, and later bySulla, the Roman commander.
§ 14.2.10 It is also related of theRhodians that they have been prosperous by sea, not merely since the time when they founded the present city, but that even many years before the establishment of theOlympic Games they used to sail far away from their homeland to insure the safety of their people. Since that time, also, they have sailed as far asIberia; and there they foundedRhode, of which theMassaliotes later took possession; among theOpici they foundedParthenope; and among theDaunians they, along with theCoans, foundedElpiae. Some say that the islands called theGymnesiae were founded by them after their departure fromTroy; and the larger of these, according toTimaeus, is the largest of all islands after the seven —Sardinia,Sicily,Cypros,Crete,Euboea,Cyrnos, andLesbos, but this is untrue, for there are others much larger. It is said that "gymnetes " are called "balearides" by thePhoenicians, and that on this account theGymnesiae were calledBalearides. Some of theRhodians took up their abode roundSybaris inChonia. The poet, too, seems to bear witness to the prosperity enjoyed by theRhodians from ancient times, forthwith from the first founding of the three cities: "and there his people settled in three divisions by tribes, and were loved ofZeus, who is lord over gods and men; and upon them, wondrous wealth was shed by the son ofCronus. Other writers refer these verses to a myth, and say that gold rained on the island at the time whenAthena was born from the head ofZeus, asPindar states. The island has a circuit of nine hundred and twenty stadia.
§ 14.2.11 As one sails from the city, with the island on the right, one comes first toLindus, a city situated on a mountain and extending far towards the south and approximately towardsAlexandria. InLindus there is a famoussanctuary ofAthena Lindia, founded by the daughters ofDanaus. Now in earlier times theLindians were under a separate government of their own, as were also the Cameirians and theIalysians, but after this they all came together atRhodes.Cleobulus, one of theSeven Wise Men, was a native ofLindus.
§ 14.2.12 AfterLindus one comes toIxia, a stronghold, and to Mnasyrium; then toAtabyris, the highest of the mountains there, which is sacred toZeus Atabyrius; then toCameirus; then toIalysus, a village, above which there is an acropolis called Ochyroma; then to the city of theRhodians, at a distance of about eighty stadia. Between these lies Thoantium, a kind of promontory; and it is off Thoantium, generally speaking, thatChalcia and theSporades in the neighborhood ofChalcia lie, which I have mentioned before.
§ 14.2.13 Many men worthy of mention were nativeRhodians, both commanders and athletes, among whom were the ancestors ofPanaetius the philosopher; and, among statesmen and rhetoricians and philosophers,Panaetius himself andStratocles andAndronicus, one of thePeripatetics, andLeonides theStoic; and also, before their time,Praxiphanes andHieronymus andEudemus.Poseidonius engaged in affairs of state inRhodes and taught there, although he was a native ofApameia inSyria, as was also the case withApollonius Malacus andMolon, for they wereAlabandians, pupils ofMenecles the orator.Apollonius Malacus began his sojourn there earlier thanMolon, and when, much later,Molon came, the former said to him, "you are a late 'molon,'" instead of saying, "late 'elthon.'" AndPeisander the poet, who wrote the Heracleia, was also aRhodian; and so wasSimmias the grammarian, as alsoAristocles of my own time. AndDionysius the Thracian and theApollonius who wrote theArgonauts, thoughAlexandrians, were calledRhodians. As forRhodes, I have said enough about it.
§ 14.2.14 As for theCarian coast that comes afterRhodes, beginning atEleus andLoryma, it bends sharply back towards the north, and the voyage thereafter runs in a straight line as far as thePropontis, forming, as it were, a meridian line about five thousand stadia long, or slightly short of that distance. Along this line is situated the remainder ofCaria, as are also theIonians and theAeolians andTroy and the parts roundCyzicus andByzantium. AfterLoryma, then, one comes to Cynos-Sema and toSyme, an island.
§ 14.2.15 Then toCnidus, with two harbors, one of which can be closed, can receive triremes, and is a naval station for twenty ships. Off it lies an island which is approximately seven stadia in circuit, rises high, is theatre-like, is connected by moles with the mainland, and in a way makesCnidus a double city, for a large part of its people live on the island, which shelters both harbors. Opposite it, in the high sea, isNisyrus. NotableCnidians were: first,Eudoxus the mathematician, one of the comrades ofPlato; thenAgatharchides, one of thePeripatetics, a historian; and, in my own time,Theopompus, the friend of the deifiedCaesar, being a man of great influence with him, and his sonArtemidorus. Thence, also, cameCtesias, who servedArtaxerxes as physician and wrote the works entitled Assyrica andPersica. Then, afterCnidus, one comes toCeramus andBargasa, small towns situated above the sea.
§ 14.2.16 Then toHalicarnassus, the royal residence of the dynasts ofCaria, which was formerly called Zephyra. Here is thetomb ofMausolus, one of the Seven Wonders, a monument erected byArtemisia in honor of her husband; and here is the fountain calledSalmacis, which has the slanderous repute, for what reason I do not know, of making effeminate all who drink from it. It seems that the effeminacy of man is laid to the charge of the air or of the water; yet it is not these, but rather riches and wanton living, that are the cause of effeminacy.Halicarnassus has an acropolis; and off the city liesArconnesus. Its colonizers were, among others,Anthes and a number ofTroezenians. Natives ofHalicarnassus have been:Herodotus the historian, whom they later called aThurian, because he took part in the colonization ofThurii; andHeracleitus the poet, the comrade ofCallimachus; and, in my time,Dionysius the historian.
§ 14.2.17 This city, too, met a reverse when it was forcibly seized byAlexander. ForHecatomnus, the king of theCarians, had three sons,Mausolus andHidrieus andPixodarus, and two daughters.Mausolus, the eldest of the brothers, marriedArtemisia, the elder of the daughters, andHidrieus, the second son, marriedAda, the other sister.Mausolus became king and at last, childless, he left the empire to his wife, by whom the above-mentioned tomb was erected. But she pined away and died through grief for her husband, andHidrieus then became ruler. He died from a disease and was succeeded by his wifeAda; but she was banished byPixodarus, the remaining son ofHecatomnos. Having espoused the side of thePersians, he sent for a satrap to share the empire with him; and when he too departed from life, the satrap took possession ofHalicarnassus. And whenAlexander came over, the satrap sustained a siege. His wife wasAda, who was the daughter ofPixodarus by Aphenis, aCappadocian woman. ButAda, the daughter ofHecatomnos, whomPixodarus had banished, entreatedAlexander and persuaded him to restore her to the kingdom of which she had been deprived, having promised to cooperate with him against the parts of the country which were in revolt, for those who held these parts, she said, were her own relations; and she also gave over to himAlinda, where she herself was residing. He assented and appointed her queen; and when the city, except the acropolis (it was a double acropolis), had been captured, he assigned to her the siege of the acropolis. This too was captured a little later, the siege having now become a matter of anger and personal enmity.
§ 14.2.18 Next one comes to a promontory,Termerium, belonging to theMyndians, opposite which liesScandaria, a promontory ofCos, forty stadia distant from the mainland. And there is a place calledTermerum above the promontory ofCos.
§ 14.2.19 The city of theCoans was in ancient times called Astypalaea; and its people lived on another site, which was likewise on the sea. And then, on account of a sedition, they changed their abode to the present city, nearScandarium, and changed the name toCos, the same as that of the island. Now the city is not large, but it is the most beautifully settled of all, and is most pleasing to behold as one sails from the high sea to its shore. The size of the island is about five hundred and fifty stadia. It is everywhere well supplied with fruits, but likeChios andLesbos it is best in respect to its wine. Towards the south it has a promontory,Laceter, whence the distance toNisyros is sixty stadia (but nearLaceter there is a place calledHalisarna), and on the west it hasDrecanum and a village calledStomalimne. NowDrecanum is about two hundred stadia distant from the city, butLaceter adds thirty-five stadia to the length of the voyage. In the suburb is theAsclepieium, a sanctuary exceedingly famous and full of numerous votive offerings, among which is theAntigonus ofApelles. AndAphrodite Anadyomene used to be there, but it is now dedicated to the deifiedCaesar inRome,Augustus thus having dedicated to his father the female founder of his family. It is said that theCoans got a remission of one hundred talents of the appointed tribute in return for the painting. And it is said that the dietetics practised byHippocrates were derived mostly from the cures recorded on the votive tablets there. He, then, is one of the famous men fromCos; and so isSimus the physician; as alsoPhiletas, at the same time poet and critic; and, in my time,Nicias, who also reigned as tyrant over theCoans; andAriston, the pupil and heir of thePeripatetic; andTheomnestus, a renowned harper, who was a political opponent ofNicias, was a native of the island.
§ 14.2.20 On the coast of the mainland near theMyndian territory lies Astypalaea, a promontory; and alsoZephyrium. Then forthwith one comes toMyndus, which has a harbor; and afterMyndus toBargylia, which is also a city; between the two isCaryanda, a harbor, and also an island bearing the same name, where theCaryandians lived. Here was bornScylax, the ancient historian. NearBargylia is the sanctuary ofArtemis Cindyas, round which the rain is believed to fall without striking it. And there was once a place calledCindye. FromBargylia there was a man of note, theEpicureanProtarchus, who was the teacher ofDemetrius called Lacon.
§ 14.2.21 Then one comes toIasus, which lies on an island close to the mainland. It has a harbor; and the people gain most of their livelihood from the sea, for the sea here is well supplied with fish, but the soil of the country is rather poor. Indeed, people fabricate stories of this kind in regard toIasus: When a citharoede was giving a recital, the people all listened for a time, but when the bell that announced the sale of fish rang, they all left him and went away to the fish market, except one man who was hard of hearing. The citharoede, therefore, went up to him and said: "Sir, I am grateful to you for the honor you have done me and for your love of music, for all the others except you went away the moment they heard the sound of the bell." And the man said, "What's that you say? Has the bell already rung?" And when the citharoede said "Yes," the man said, "Fare thee well," and himself arose and went away. Here was born the dialecticianDiodorus, nicknamedCronus, falsely so at the outset, for it wasApollonius his master who was called Cronus, but the nickname was transferred to him because of the trueCronus' lack of repute.
§ 14.2.22 AfterIasus one comes to thePoseidium of theMilesians. In the interior are three noteworthy cities:Mylasa,Stratoniceia, andAlabanda. The others are dependencies of these or else of the cities on the coast, among which areAmyzon,Heracleia,Euromus, andChalcetor. As for these, there is little to be said.
§ 14.2.23 But as forMylasa: it is situated in an exceedingly fertile plain; and above the plain, towering into a peak, rises a mountain, which has a most excellent quarry of white marble. Now this quarry is of no small advantage, since it has stone in abundance and close at hand, for building purposes and in particular for the building of sanctuaries and other public works; accordingly this city, if any city is, is in every way beautifully adorned with porticoes and temples. But one may well be amazed at those who so absurdly founded the city at the foot of a steep and commanding crag. Accordingly, one of the commanders, amazed at the fact, is said to have said, "If the man who founded this city was not afraid, wasn't he at least ashamed?" The Mylasians have two sanctuaries ofZeus,ZeusOsogoos, as he is called, andZeus Labraundenus. The former is in the city, whereasLabraunda is a village far from the city, being situated on the mountain near the pass that leads over fromAlabanda toMylasa. AtLabraunda there is an ancient temple and image [xoanon] ofZeusStratius. It is honored by the people all about and by the Mylasians; and there is a paved road of almost sixty stadia from it toMylasa, called the Sacred Way, on which their sacred processions are conducted. The priestly offices are held by the most distinguished of the citizens, always for life. Now these two are particular to the city; but there is a third sanctuary, that of theCarianZeus, which is a common possession of allCarians, and in which, as brothers, bothLydians andMysians have a share. It is related thatMylasa was a mere village in ancient times, but that it was the native land and royal residence of theCarians of the house ofHecatomnos. The city is nearest to the sea atPhyscus[Passala is meant?]; and this is their seaport.
§ 14.2.24 Mylasa has had two notable men in my time, who were at once orators and leaders of the city,Euthydemus andHybreas. NowEuthydemus, having inherited from his ancestors great wealth and high repute, and having added to these his own cleverness, was not only a great man in his native land, but was also thought worthy of the foremost honor inAsia. As forHybreas, as he himself used to tell the story in his school and as confirmed by his fellow-citizens, his father left him a mule-driver and a wood-carrying mule. And, being supported by these, he became a pupil ofDiotrephes of Antiocheia for a short time, and then came back and "surrendered himself to the office of market-clerk." But when he had been "tossed about" in this office and had made but little money, he began to apply himself to the affairs of state and to follow closely the speakers of the forum. He quickly grew in power, and was already an object of amazement in the lifetime ofEuthydemus, but in particular after his death, having become master of the city. So long asEuthydemus lived he strongly prevailed, being at once powerful and useful to the city, so that even if there was something tyrannical about him, it was atoned for by the fact that it was attended by what was good for the city. At any rate, people applaud the following statement ofHybreas, made by him towards the end of a public speech: "Euthydemus: you are an evil necessary to the city, for we can live neither with you nor without you." However, although he had grown very strong and had the repute of being both a good citizen and orator, he stumbled in his political opposition toLabienus; for while the others, since they were without arms and inclined to peace, yielded toLabienus when he was coming against them with an army and an alliedParthian force, theParthians by that time being in possession ofAsia, yetZeno ofLaodiceia andHybreas, both orators, refused to yield and caused their own cities to revolt.Hybreas also provokedLabienus, a lad who was irritable and full of folly, by a certain pronouncement; for whenLabienus proclaimed himselfParthian Emperor,Hybreas said, "Then I too call myselfCarian Emperor." ConsequentlyLabienus set out against the city with cohorts of Roman soldiers inAsia that were already organized.Labienus did not seizeHybreas, however, since he had withdrawn toRhodes, but he shamefully maltreated his home, with its costly furnishings, and plundered it. And he likewise damaged the whole of the city. But thoughHybreas abandonedAsia, he came back and rehabilitated both himself and the city. So much, then, forMylasa.
§ 14.2.25 Stratoniceia is a settlement ofMacedonians. And this too was adorned with costly improvements by the kings. There are two sanctuaries in the country of theStratoniceians, of which the most famous, that ofHecate, is atLagina; and it draws great festal assemblies every year. And near the city is that ofZeusChrysaoreus, the common possession of allCarians, whither they gather both to offer sacrifice and to deliberate on their common interests. Their League, which consists of villages, is called "Chrysaorian." And those who present the most villages have a preference in the vote, like, for example, the people ofCeramus. TheStratoniceians also have a share in the League, although they are not of theCarian stock, but because they have villages belonging to the Chrysaorian League. Here, too, in the time of our fathers, was born a noteworthy man,Menippus, surnamed Catocas, whomCicero, as he says in one of his writings, applauded above all the Asiatic orators he had heard, comparing him withXenocles and with the other orators who flourished in the latter's time. But there is also anotherStratoniceia, "Stratoniceia near theTaurus," as it is called; it is a small town situated near the mountain.
§ 14.2.26 Alabanda is also situated at the foot of hills, two hills that are joined together in such a way that they present the appearance of anass laden with panniers. And indeedApollonius Malacus, in ridiculing the city both in regard to this and in regard to the large number of scorpions there, said that it was an "ass laden with panniers of scorpions." Both this city andMylasa are full of these creatures, and so is the whole of the mountainous country between them.Alabanda is a city of people who live in luxury and debauchery, containing many girls who play the harp.Alabandians worthy of mention are two orators, brothers, I meanMenecles, whom I mentioned a little above, andHierocles, and alsoApollonius andMolon, who changed their abode toRhodes.
§ 14.2.27 Of the numerous accounts of theCarians, the one that is generally agreed upon is this, that theCarians were subject to the rule ofMinos, being calledLeleges at that time, and lived in the islands; then, having migrated to the mainland, they took possession of much of the coast and of the interior, taking it away from its previous possessors, who for the most part wereLeleges andPelasgians. In turn these were deprived of a part of their country by the Greeks, I meanIonians andDorians. As evidences of their zeal for military affairs, writers adduce shield-holders, shield-emblems, and crests, for all these are called "Carian." At leastAnacreon says, "Come, put thine arm through the shield-holder, work of theCarians. AndAlcaeus says, "shaking theCarian crest.
§ 14.2.28 When the poet says, "Masthles in turn led theCarians, of barbarian speech, we have no reason to inquire how it is that, although he knew so many barbarian tribes, he speaks of theCarians alone as "of barbarian speech," but nowhere speaks of "barbarians."Thucydides, therefore, is not correct, for he says thatHomer "did not use the term 'barbarians' either, because the Hellenes on their part had not yet been distinguished under one name as opposed to them"; for the poet himself refutes the statement that the Hellenes had not yet been so distinguished when he says, "My husband, whose fame is wide throughHellas and mid-Argos. And again, "And if thou dost wish to journey throughHellas and mid-Argos. Further, if they were not called "barbarians," how could they properly be called a people "of barbarian speech?" So neitherThucydides is correct, norApollodorus the grammarian, who says that the general term was used by the Hellenes in a peculiar and abusive sense against theCarians, and in particular by theIonians, who hated them because of their enmity and the continuous military campaigns; for it was right to name them barbarians in this sense. But I raise the question, Why does he call them people "of barbarian speech," but not even once calls them barbarians? "Because,"Apollodorus replies, "the plural does not fall in with the metre; this is why he does not call them barbarians." But though this case does not fall in with metre, the nominative case does not differ metrically from that of "Dardanians": "Trojans andLycians and Dardanians. So, also, the word "Trojan," in "of what kind theTrojanhorses are. Neither is he correct when he says that the language of theCarians is very harsh, for it is not, but even has very many Greek words mixed up with it, according to thePhilip who wrote The Carica. I suppose that the word "barbarian" was at first uttered onomatopoetically in reference to people who enunciated words only with difficulty and talked harshly and raucously, like our words "battarizein," "traulizein," and "psellizein"; for we are by nature very much inclined to denote sounds by words that sound like them, on account of their homogeneity. Wherefore onomatopoetic words abound in our language, as, for example, "celaryzein," and also "clange," "psophos," "boe," and "crotos," most of which are by now used in their proper sense. Accordingly, when all who pronounced words thickly were being called barbarians onomatopoetically, it appeared that the pronunciations of all alien races were likewise thick, I mean of those that were not Greek. Those, therefore, they called barbarians in the special sense of the term, at first derisively, meaning that they pronounced words thickly or harshly; and then we misused the word as a general ethnic term, thus making a logical distinction between the Greeks and all other races. The fact is, however, that through our long acquaintance and intercourse with the barbarians this effect was at last seen to be the result, not of a thick pronunciation or any natural defect in the vocal organs, but of the peculiarities of their several languages. And there appeared another faulty and barbarian-like pronunciation in our language, whenever any person speaking Greek did not pronounce it correctly, but pronounced the words like barbarians who are only beginning to learn Greek and are unable to speak it accurately, as is also the case with us in speaking their languages. This was particularly the case with theCarians, for, although the other peoples were not yet having very much intercourse with the Greeks nor even trying to live in Greek fashion or to learn our language — with the exception, perhaps, of rare persons who by chance, and singly, mingled with a few of the Greeks — yet theCarians roamed throughout the whole of Greece, serving on expeditions for pay. Already, therefore, the barbarous element in their Greek was strong, as a result of their expeditions in Greece; and after this it spread much more, from the time they took up their abode with the Greeks in the islands; and when they were driven thence intoAsia, even here they were unable to live apart from the Greeks, I mean when theIonians andDorians later crossed over toAsia. The term "barbarize," also, has the same origin; for we are wont to use this too in reference to those who speak Greek badly, not to those who talkCarian. So, therefore, we must interpret the terms "speak barbarously" and "barbarously-speaking" as applying to those who speak Greek badly. And it was from the term "Carise" that the term "barbarize" was used in a different sense in works on the art of speaking Greek; and so was the term "soloecise," whether derived fromSoli, or made up in some other way.
§ 14.2.29 Artemidorus says that, as one goes fromPhyscus, in thePeraea of theRhodians, toEphesus, the distance toLagina is eight hundred and fifty stadia; and thence toAlabanda, two hundred and fifty more; and toTralleis, one hundred and sixty. But one comes to the road that leads intoTralleis after crossing theMaeander River, at about the middle of the journey, where are the boundaries ofCaria. The distance all told fromPhyscus to theMaeander along the road toEphesus amounts to one thousand one hundred and eighty stadia. Again, from theMaeander, traversing next in order the length ofIonia along the same road, the distance from the river toTralleis is eighty stadia; then toMagnesia, one hundred and forty; toEphesus, one hundred and twenty; toSmyrna, three hundred and twenty; and toPhocaea and the boundaries ofIonia, less than two hundred; so that the length ofIonia in a straight line would be, according toArtemidorus, slightly more than eight hundred stadia. Since there is a kind of common road constantly used by all who travel fromEphesus towards the east,Artemidorus traverses this too: fromEphesus toCarura, a boundary ofCaria towardsPhrygia, throughMagnesia,Tralleis,Nysa, andAntiocheia, is a journey of seven hundred and forty stadia; and, fromCarura, the journey inPhrygia, throughLaodiceia,Apameia,Metropolis and Chelidonia. Now near the beginning ofParoreius, one comes toHolmi, about nine hundred and twenty stadia fromCarura, and, near the end ofParoreius nearLycaonia, throughPhilomelium, toTyriaion, slightly more than five hundred. ThenLycaonia, throughLaodikia Katakekaumene, as far asCoropassus, eight hundred and forty stadia; fromCoropassus inLycaonia toGarsaura, a small town inCappadocia, situated on its borders, one hundred and twenty; thence toMazaca, the metropolis of theCappadocians, throughSoandum and Sadacora, six hundred and eighty; and thence to theEuphrates River, as far asTomisa, a place inSophene, throughHerphae, a small town, one thousand four hundred and forty. The places on a straight line with these as far asIndia are the same inArtemidorus as they are inEratosthenes. ButPolybius says that we should rely most onArtemidorus in regard to the places here. He begins withSamosata inCommagene, which lies at the river crossing and atZeugma, and states that the distance toSamosata, across theTaurus, from the boundaries ofCappadocia roundTomisa is four hundred and fifty stadia.
§ 14.3.1 Lycia After thePeraea of theRhodians, of whichDaedala is a boundary, sailing next in order towards the rising sun, one comes toLycia, which extends as far asPamphylia; then toPamphylia, extending as far as theTracheian Cilicians; and then to the country of these, extending as far as the otherCilicians living round theGulf of Issos. These are parts of the peninsula, the isthmus of which, as I was saying, is the road fromIssus toAmisus, or, according to some,Sinope, but they lie outside theTaurus on the narrow coast which extends fromLycia as far as the region ofSoli, the present Pompeiopolis. Then forthwith the coast in the neighborhood ofSoli, beginning atSoli andTarsus, spreads out into plains. So then, when I have traversed this coast, my account of the whole peninsula will have been completed. Then I shall pass to the other parts ofAsia that are outside theTaurus. And lastly I shall set forth my account ofLibya.
§ 14.3.2 AfterDaedala of theRhodians, then, one comes to a mountain inLycia which bears the same name as the city,Daedala, whence the whole voyage along theLycian coast takes its beginning; this coast extends one thousand seven hundred and twenty stadia, and is rugged and hard to travel, but is exceedingly well supplied with harbors and inhabited by decent people. Indeed, the nature of the country, at least, is similar to both that of thePamphylians and theTracheian Cilicians, but the former used their places as bases of operation for the business ofpiracy, when they engaged inpiracy themselves or offered them topirates as markets for the sale of booty and as naval stations. InSide, at any rate, a city inPamphylia, the dockyards stood open to theCilicians, who would sell their captives at auction there, though admitting that these were freemen. But theLycians continued living in such a civilized and decent way that, although thePamphylians through their successes gained the mastery of the sea as far asItaly, still they themselves were stirred by no desire for shameful gain, but remained within the ancestral domain of theLycian League.
§ 14.3.3 There are twenty-three cities that share in the vote. They come together from each city to a general congress, after choosing whatever city they approve of. The largest of the cities control three votes each, the medium-sized two, and the rest one. In the same proportion, also, they make contributions and discharge other liturgies.Artemidorus said that the six largest wereXanthus,Patara,Pinara,Olympus,Myra, andTlos, the last named being situated near the pass that leads over intoCibyra. At the congress they first choose a "Lyciarch," and then other officials of the League; and general courts of justice are designated. In earlier times they would deliberate about war and peace and alliances, but now they naturally do not do so, since these matters necessarily lie in the power of the Romans, except, perhaps, when the Romans should give them permission or it should be for their benefit. Likewise, judges and magistrates are elected from the several cities in the same proportion. And since they lived under such a good government, they remained ever free under the Romans, thus retaining their ancestral usages; and they saw thepirates utterly wiped out, first byServilius Isauricus, at the time that he demolishedIsaura, and later byPompey the Great, when he set fire to more than thirteen hundred boats and laid waste their settlements. Of thepirates who survived the fights, he brought some down toSoli, which he named Pompeiopolis, and the others toDyme, where there was a dearth of population; it is now occupied by a colony of Romans. The poets, however, and especially the tragic poets, confuse the tribes, as, for example, theTrojans and theMysians and theLydians, whom they callPhrygians; and likewise theLycians, whom they callCarians.
§ 14.3.4 AfterDaedala, then, I mean the mountain inLycia, one comes to aLycian town near it,Telmessus, and to Telmessis, a promontory with a harbor.Eumenes received this place from the Romans in the Antiochian War, but when his kingdom was dissolved theLycians got it back again.
§ 14.3.5 Then, next, one comes toAnticragus, a steep mountain, where isCarmylessus, an inhabited place situated in a ravine; and, after this, toCragus, which has eight promontories and a city of the same name. The scene of the myth ofChimaera is laid in the neighborhood of these mountains.Chimaera, a ravine extending up from the shore, is not far from them. At the foot ofCragus, in the interior, liesPinara, one of the largest cities inLycia. HerePandarus is held in honor, who may, perhaps, be identical with theTrojan hero, as when the poet says, "The daughter ofPandareus, the nightingale of the greenwood, forPandareus is said to have been fromLycia.
§ 14.3.6 Then one comes to theXanthus River, which the people of earlier times called theSirbis. Sailing up this river by rowboat for ten stadia one comes to theLetoon; and proceeding sixty stadia beyond the sanctuary one comes to the city of theXanthians, the largest city inLycia. AfterXanthus,Patara, which is also a large city with a harbor and rites ofApollo, founded by Patarus. WhenPtolemy Philadelphus repaired it, he called itLycianArsinoe, but the original name prevailed.
§ 14.3.7 Then one comes toMyra, at a distance of twenty stadia above the sea, on a lofty hill. Then to the outlet of the Limyrus River, and then, going twenty stadia inland on foot, toLimyra, a small town. In the intervening distance on the coasting voyage there are numerous isles and harbors, among which are the islandMegiste, with a city of the same name, andCisthene. And in the interior are places calledPhellus andAntiphellus andChimaera, which last I have mentioned above.
§ 14.3.8 Then one comes to the promontoryHiera and to theChelidoniae, three rugged islands, which are about equal in size and are about five stadia distant from one another. They lie about six stadia off the shore, and one of them has a landing-place for vessels. Here it is, according to the majority of writers, that theTaurus takes its beginning, not only because of the loftiness of the promontory and because it extends down from thePisidian mountains that lie abovePamphylia, but also because of the islands that lie off it, presenting, as they do, a sort of conspicuous sign in the sea, like outskirts of a mountain. But in truth the mountainous tract is continuous from thePeraea of theRhodians to the parts nearPisidia; and this tract too is called theTaurus. TheChelidoniae are likewise thought to lie approximately opposite toCanobus; and the passage thence toCanobus is said to be four thousand stadia. From the promontoryHiera toOlbia there remain three hundred and sixty-seven stadia; and on this stretch lie, not onlyCrambusa, but alsoOlympus, a large city and a mountain of the same name, which latter is also calledPhoenicus. Then one comes toCorycus, a tract of sea-coast.
§ 14.3.9 Then one comes toPhaselis, with three harbors, a city of note, and to a lake. Above it liesSolymi, a mountain, and alsoTermessus, aPisidian city situated near the defiles, through which there is a pass over the mountain toMilyas.Alexander destroyedMilyas for the reason that he wished to open the defiles. NearPhaselis, by the sea, there are defiles, through whichAlexander led his army. And here there is a mountain called Climax, which lies near thePamphylian Sea and leaves a narrow pass on the shore; and in calm weather this pass is free from water, so that it is passable for travellers, but when the sea is at flood-tide it is to a considerable extent hidden by the waves. Now the pass that leads over through the mountain is circuitous and steep, but in fair weather people use the pass along the shore.Alexander, meeting with a stormy season, and being a man who in general trusted to luck, set out before the waves had receded; and the result was that all day long his soldiers marched in water submerged to their navels. Now this city too isLycian, being situated on the borders towardsPamphylia, but it has no part in the common League and is a separate organization to itself.
§ 14.3.10 Now the poet makes theSolymi different from theLycians, for whenBellerophon was sent by the king of theLycians to the second struggle, "he fought with the gloriousSolymi. But others, who assert that theLycians were in earlier times calledSolymi, but in later times were calledTermilae from theTermilae who came there fromCrete withSarpedon, and after this were calledLycians, fromLycius the son ofPandion, who, after having been banished from his homeland, was admitted bySarpedon as a partner in his empire, are not in agreement withHomer. Better is the opinion of those who assert that by "Solymi" the poet means the people who are now called theMilyae, of whom I have already spoken."
§ 14.4.1 Pamphylia AfterPhaselis one comes toOlbia, the beginning ofPamphylia, a large fortress; and after this to theCatarractes, as it is called, a river which dashes down in such volume and so impetuously that the noise can be heard from afar. Then to a city,Attaleia, so named after its founderAttalus Philadelphus, who also sent a colony toCorycus, a small neighboring town, and surrounded it with a greater circuit-wall. It is said that bothThebe andLyrnessus are to be seen betweenPhaselis andAttaleia, a part of theTrojanCilicians having been driven out of the plain ofThebe intoPamphylia, asCallisthenes states.
§ 14.4.2 Then one comes to theCestrus River; and, sailing sixty stadia up this river, one comes toPerge, a city; and nearPerge, on a lofty site, to the sanctuary ofArtemis Pergaea, where a general festival is celebrated every year. Then, about forty stadia above the sea, one comes toSyllium, a lofty city that is visible fromPerge. Then one comes to a very large lake, Capria; and after this, to theEurymedon River; and, sailing sixty stadia up this river, toAspendus, a city with a flourishing population and founded by theArgives. AboveAspendus liesPetnelissus. Then comes another river; and also numerous isles that lie off it. ThenSide, a colony of theCymaeans, which has a sanctuary ofAthena; and near by is the coast of the LesserCibyratae. Then theMelas River and a mooring-place. ThenPtolemais, a city. And after this come the boundaries ofPamphylia, and alsoCoracesium, the beginning ofCilicia Tracheia. The whole of the voyage along the coast ofPamphylia is six hundred and forty stadia.
§ 14.4.3 Herodotus says that thePamphylians are the descendants of the peoples led byAmphilochus andCalchas, a miscellaneous throng who accompanied them fromTroy; and that most of them remained here, but that some of them were scattered to numerous places on earth.Callinus says thatCalchas died inClarus, but that the peoples led byMopsus passed over theTaurus, and that, though some remained inPamphylia, the others were dispersed inCilicia, and also inSyria as far even asPhoenicia.
§ 14.5.1 Cilicia As forCilicia outside theTaurus, one part of it is called Tracheia and the other Pedias. As for Tracheia, its coast is narrow and has no level ground, or scarcely any; and, besides that, it lies at the foot of theTaurus, which affords a poor livelihood as far as its northern side in the region ofIsaura and of theHomonadeis as far asPisidia; and the same country is also called Tracheiotis, and its inhabitants Tracheiotae. ButCilicia Pedias extends fromSoli andTarsus as far asIssus, and also to those parts beyond which, on the northern side of theTaurus,Cappadocians are situated; for this country consists for the most part of plains and fertile land. Since some parts of this country are inside theTaurus and others outside it, and since I have already spoken of those inside it, let me now speak of those outside it, beginning with theTracheiotae.
§ 14.5.2 The first place inCilicia, then, to which one comes, is a stronghold,Coracesium, situated on an abrupt rock, which was used byDiodotus called Tryphon, as a base of operations at the time when he causedSyria to revolt from the kings and was fighting it out with them, being successful at one time and failing at another. NowTryphon was hemmed up in a certain place byAntiochus, son ofDemetrius, and forced to kill himself; and it wasTryphon, together with the worthlessness of the kings who by succession were then reigning overSyria and at the same time overCilicia, who caused theCilicians to organize their gangs ofpirates; for on account of his revolutionary attempts others made like attempts at the same time, and thus the dissensions of brethren with one another put the country at the mercy of any who might attack it. The exportation of slaves induced them most of all to engage in their evil business, since it proved most profitable; for not only were they easily captured, but the market, which was large and rich in property, was not extremely far away, I meanDelos, which could both admit and send away ten thousand slaves on the same day; whence arose the proverb, "Merchant, sail in, unload your ship, everything has been sold. The cause of this was the fact that the Romans, having become rich after the destruction ofCarthage andCorinth, used many slaves; and thepirates, seeing the easy profit therein, bloomed forth in great numbers, themselves not only going in quest of booty but also trafficking in slaves. The kings both ofCyprus and ofEgypt cooperated with them in this, being enemies to the Syrians. Neither were theRhodians friendly to the Syrians, and they therefore afforded them no assistance. And at the same time thepirates, pretending to be slave-dealers, carried on their evil business unchecked. Neither were the Romans concerning themselves as yet so much about the peoples outside theTaurus; but they sentScipio Aemilianus, and again certain others, to inspect the tribes and the cities; and they decided that the above mentionedpiracy was due to the incompetence of the rulers, although they were ashamed, since they themselves had ratified the hereditary succession fromSeleucus Nicator, to deprive them of it. And this is what made theParthians masters of the country, who got possession of the region on the far side of theEuphrates; and at last made also theArmenians masters, who not only seized the country outside theTaurus even as far asPhoenicia, but also, so far as they could, overthrew the kings and the whole royal stock; the sea, however, they gave over to theCilicians. Then, after these people had grown in power, the Romans were forced to destroy them by war and with an army, although they had not hindered their growing power. Now it is hard to condemn the Romans of negligence, since, being engaged with matters that were nearer and more urgent, they were unable to watch those that were farther away. So much I have decided to say by way of a brief digression from my geographical description.
§ 14.5.3 AfterCoracesium, one comes toArsinoe, a city; then toHamaxia, a settlement on a hill, with a harbor, where ship-building timber is brought down. Most of this timber is cedar; and it appears that this region beyond others abounds in cedar-wood for ships; and it was on this account thatAntony assigned this region toCleopatra, since it was suited to the building of her fleets. Then one comes toLaertes, a stronghold on a breast-shaped hill, with a mooring-place. Then toSelinus, a city and river. Then toCragus, a rock which is precipitous all round and near the sea. Then toCharadrus, a fortress, which also has a mooring-place (above it lies Mt. Andriclus); and the coast alongside it, called Platanistes, is rugged. Then toAnemurium, a promontory, where the mainland approaches closest toCyprus, in the direction of the promontory ofCrommyus, the passage across being three hundred and fifty stadia. Now the coasting-voyage alongCilicia from the borders ofPamphylia toAnemurium is eight hundred and twenty stadia, whereas the rest, as far asSoli, is about five hundred stadia. On this latter one comes toNagidus, the first city afterAnemurium; then toArsinoe, which has a landing-place; then to a place called Melania, and toCelenderis, a city with a harbor. Some writers, among whom isArtemidorus, makeCelenderis, notCoracesium, the beginning ofCilicia. And he says that the distance from thePelusian mouth toOrthosia is three thousand nine hundred stadia; to theOrontes River, one thousand one hundred and thirty; to theGates next thereafter, five hundred and twenty-five; and to the borders of theCilicians, one thousand two hundred and sixty.
§ 14.5.4 Then one comes toHolmi, where the present Seleuceians formerly lived; but whenSeleucia on theCalycadnus was founded, they migrated there; for immediately on doubling the shore, which forms a promontory calledSarpedon, one comes to the outlet of theCalycadnus. Near theCalycadnus is alsoZephyrium, likewise a promontory. The river affords a voyage inland toSeleucia, a city which is well-peopled and stands far aloof from theCilician andPamphylian usages. Here were born in my time noteworthy men of thePeripatetic sect of philosophers,Athenaeus andXenarchus. Of these,Athenaeus engaged also in affairs of state and was for a time leader of the people in his native land; and then, having fallen into a friendship withMurena, he was captured along withMurena when in flight with him, after the plot againstAugustus Caesar had been detected, but, being clearly proven guiltless, he was released byCaesar. And when, on his return toRome, the first men who met him were greeting him and questioning him, he repeated the following fromEuripides: "I am come, having left the vaults of the dead and the gates of darkness." But he survived his return only a short time, having been killed in the collapse, which took place in the night, of the house in which he lived.Xenarchus, however, of whom I was a pupil, did not tarry long at home, but resided atAlexandria and atAthens and finally atRome, having chosen the life of a teacher; and having enjoyed the friendship both ofAreius and ofAugustus Caesar, he continued to be held in honor down to old age; but shortly before the end he lost his sight, and then died of a disease.
§ 14.5.5 After theCalycadnus one comes to the rock Poecile, as it is called, which has steps hewn in it that lead toSeleuceia; then toAnemurium, a promontory, bearing the same name as the former, and toCrambusa, an island, and toCorycus, a promontory, above which, at a distance of twenty stadia, is theCorycian cave, in which the best crocus grows. It is a great circular hollow, with a rocky brow situated all round it that is everywhere quite high. Going down into it, one comes to a floor that is uneven and mostly rocky, but full of trees of the shrub kind, both the evergreen and those that are cultivated. And among these trees are dispersed also the plots of ground which produce the crocus. There is also a cave here, with a great spring, which sends forth a river of pure and transparent water; the river forthwith empties beneath the earth, and then, after running invisible underground, issues forth into the sea. It is called Picrum Hydor.
§ 14.5.6 Then, afterCorycus, one comes toElaeussa, an island lying close to the mainland, whichArchelaus settled, making it a royal residence, after he had received the whole ofCilicia Tracheia exceptSeleuceia — the same way in which it was obtained formerly byAmyntas and still earlier byCleopatra; for since the region was naturally well adapted to the business ofpiracy both by land and by sea — by land, because of the height of the mountains and the large tribes that live beyond them, tribes which have plains and farm-lands that are large and easily overrun, and by sea, because of the good supply, not only of shipbuilding timber, but also of harbors and fortresses and secret recesses — with all this in view, I say, the Romans thought that it was better for the region to be ruled by kings than to be under the Roman prefects sent to administer justice, who were not likely always to be present or to have armed forces with them. ThusArchelaus received, in addition toCappadocia,Cilicia Tracheia; and the boundary of the latter, the riverLamus and the village of the same name [Lamos], lies betweenSoli andElaeussa.
§ 14.5.7 Near the mountain ridges of theTaurus lies thepiratical stronghold ofZenicetes — I meanOlympus, both mountain and fortress, whence are visible allLycia andPamphylia andPisidia andMilyas; but when the mountain was captured byIsauricus,Zenicetes burnt himself up with his whole house. To him belonged alsoCorycus andPhaselis and many places inPamphylia; but all were taken byIsauricus.
§ 14.5.8 AfterLamus one comes toSoli, a noteworthy city, the beginning of the otherCilicia, that which is roundIssus; it was founded byAchaeans andRhodians fromLindus. Since this city was of scant population,Pompey the Great settled in it those survivors of thepirates whom he judged most worthy of being saved and provided for; and he changed its name toPompeiopolis. Among the famous natives ofSoli were:Chrysippus theStoic philosopher, whose father had moved there fromTarsus;Philemon, the comic poet; andAratus, who wrote the work entitled The Phaenomena, in verse.
§ 14.5.9 Then toZephyrium, which bears the same name as the place nearCalycadnus. Then, a little above the sea, toAnchiale, which, according toAristobulus, was founded bySardanapallus. Here, he says, is the tomb ofSardanapallus, and a stone figure which represents the fingers of the right hand as snapping together, and the following inscription inAssyrian letters: "Sardanapallus, the son ofAnacyndaraxes, builtAnchiale andTarsus in one day. Eat, drink, be merry, because all things else are not worth this," meaning the snapping of the fingers.Choerilus also mentions this inscription; and indeed the following verses are everywhere known: "Mine are all that I have eaten, and the delights of love that I have enjoyed; but those numerous blessings have been left behind.
§ 14.5.10 AboveAnchiale liesCyinda, a fortress, which at one time was used as a treasury by theMacedonians. But the treasures were taken away byEumenes, when he revolted fromAntigonus. And still above this andSoli is a mountainous country, in which is a cityOlbe, with a sanctuary ofZeus, founded byAjax the son ofTeucer. The priest of this sanctuary became dynast ofCilicia Tracheia; and then the country was beset by numerous tyrants, and the gangs ofpirates were organized. And after the overthrow of these they called this country the domain ofTeucer, and called the same also the priesthood ofTeucer; and most of the priests were namedTeucer orAjax. But Aba, the daughter ofXenophanes, one of the tyrants, came into this family by marriage and herself took possession of the empire, her father having previously received it in the guise of guardian. But later bothAntony andCleopatra conferred it upon her as a favor, being moved by her courteous entreaties. And then she was overthrown, but the empire remained with her descendants. AfterAnchiale one comes to the outlets of theCydnus, near the Rhegma, as it is called. It is a place that forms into a lake, having also ancient arsenals; and into it empties theCydnus River, which flows through the middle ofTarsus and has its sources in the cityTaurus, which lies aboveTarsus. The lake is also the naval station ofTarsus.
§ 14.5.11 Now thus far the seaboard as a whole, beginning at thePeraea of theRhodians, extends towards the equinoctial east from the equinoctial west, and then bends in the direction of winter sunrise as far asIssus, and then forthwith takes a bend towards the south as far asPhoenicia; and the remainder extends towards the west as far as thePillars and there ends. Now the truth is that the actual isthmus of the peninsula which I have described is that which extends fromTarsus and the outlet of theCydnus toAmisus, for this is the shortest distance fromAmisus to the boundaries ofCilicia; and the distance thence toTarsus is one hundred and twenty stadia, and the distance from there to the outlet of theCydnus is no more than that. And in fact toIssus, and the sea near it, there is no other road fromAmisus which is shorter than that throughTarsus, andTarsus is not nearer toIssus than to theCydnus; and therefore it is clear that in reality this would be the isthmus; but still people call that which extends as far as theGulf of Issos the true isthmus, thus betraying the facts because of the significance of the gulf. And it is because of this very thing that I, without making any accurate distinctions, represent the line fromRhodes, which I have prolonged to theCydnus, to be the same as the line extending as far asIssus, and also assert that theTaurus extends in a straight line with that line as far asIndia.
§ 14.5.12 As forTarsus, it lies in a plain; and it was founded by theArgives who wandered withTriptolemus in quest ofIo; and it is intersected in the middle by theCydnus River, which flows past the very gymnasium of the young men. Now inasmuch as the source of the river is not very far away and its stream passes through a deep ravine and then empties immediately into the city, its discharge is both cold and swift; and hence it is helpful both to men and tocattle that are suffering from swollen sinews, if they immerse themselves in its waters.
§ 14.5.13 The people atTarsus have devoted themselves so eagerly, not only to philosophy, but also to the whole round of education in general, that they have surpassedAthens,Alexandria, or any other place that can be named where there have been schools and lectures of philosophers. But it is so different from other cities that there the men who are fond of learning, are all natives, and foreigners are not inclined to sojourn there; neither do these natives stay there, but they complete their education abroad; and when they have completed it they are pleased to live abroad, and but few go back home. But the opposite is the case with the other cities which I have just mentioned exceptAlexandria; for many resort to them and pass time there with pleasure, but you would not see many of the natives either resorting to places outside their country through love of learning or eager about pursuing learning at home. With theAlexandrians, however, both things take place, for they admit many foreigners and also send not a few of their own citizens abroad. Further, the city ofTarsus has all kinds of schools of rhetoric; and in general it not only has a flourishing population but also is most powerful, thus keeping up the reputation of the mother-city.
§ 14.5.14 The following men were natives ofTarsus: among theStoics,Antipater andArchedemus andNestor; and also the two Athenodoruses, one of whom, calledCordylion, lived withMarcus Cato and died at his house; and the other, the son ofSandon, calledCananites after some village, wasCaesar's teacher and was greatly honored by him; and when he returned to his native land, now an old man, he broke up the government there established, which was being badly conducted byBoethus, among others, who was a bad poet and a bad citizen, having prevailed there by currying the favour of the people. He had been raised to prominence byAntony, who at the outset received favorably the poem which he had written upon the victory atPhilippi, but still more by that facility prevalent among theTarsians whereby he could instantly speak offhand and unceasingly on any given subject. Furthermore,Antony promised the Tarsians an office of gymnasiarch, but appointedBoethus instead of a gymnasiarch, and entrusted to him the expenditures. ButBoethus was caught secreting, among other things, the olive-oil; and when he was being proven guilty by his accusers in the presence ofAntony he deprecatedAntony's wrath, saying, among other things, that "Just asHomer had hymned the praises ofAchilles andAgamemnon andOdysseus, so I have hymned thine. It is not right, therefore, that I should be brought before you on such slanderous charges." When, however, the accuser caught the statement, he said, "Yes, butHomer did not stealAgamemnon's oil, nor yet that ofAchilles, but you did; and therefore you shall be punished." However, he broke the wrath ofAntony by courteous attentions, and no less than before kept on plundering the city until the overthrow ofAntony. Finding the city in this plight,Athenodorus for a time tried to induce bothBoethus and his partisans to change their course; but since they would abstain from no act of insolence, he used the authority given him byCaesar, condemned them to exile, and expelled them. These at first indicted him with the following inscription on the walls: "Work for young men, counsels for the middle-aged, and flatulence for old men; and when he, taking the inscription as a joke, ordered the following words to be inscribed beside it, "thunder for old men," someone, contemptuous of all decency and afflicted with looseness of the bowels, profusely bespattered the door and wall ofAthenodorus' house as he was passing by it at night.Athenodorus, while bringing accusations in the assembly against the faction, said: "One may see the sickly plight and the disaffection of the city in many ways, and in particular from its excrements." These men wereStoics; but theNestor of my time, the teacher ofMarcellus, son ofOctavia the sister ofCaesar, was an Academician. He too was at the head of the government ofTarsus, having succeededAthenodorus; and he continued to be held in honor both by the prefects and in the city.
§ 14.5.15 Among the other philosophers fromTarsus,"whom I could well note and tell their names, are Plutiades andDiogenes, who were among those philosophers that went round from city to city and conducted schools in an able manner.Diogenes also composed poems, as if by inspiration, when a subject was given him — for the most part tragic poems; and as for grammarians whose writings are extant, there areArtemidorus andDiodorus; and the best tragic poet among those enumerated in the "Pleias" wasDionysiades. But it isRome that is best able to tell us the number of learned men from this city; for it is full ofTarsians andAlexandrians. Such isTarsus.
§ 14.5.16 After theCydnus River one comes to thePyramus River, which flows fromCataonia, a river which I have mentioned before. According toArtemidorus, the distance thence toSoli in a straight voyage is five hundred stadia. Near by, also, isMallos, situated on a height, founded byAmphilochus andMopsus, the latter the son ofApollo andManto, concerning whom many myths are told. And indeed I, too, have mentioned them in my account ofCalchas and of the quarrel betweenCalchas andMopsus about their powers of divination. For some writers transfer this quarrel,Sophocles, for example, toCilicia, which he, following the custom of tragic poets, callsPamphylia, just as he callsLycia "Caria" andTroy andLydia "Phrygia." AndSophocles, among others, tells us thatCalchas died there. But, according to the myth, the contest concerned, not only the power of divination, but also the sovereignty; for they say thatMopsus andAmphilochus went fromTroy and foundedMallos, and thatAmphilochus then went away toArgos, and, being dissatisfied with affairs there, returned toMallos, but that, being excluded from a share in the government there, he fought a duel withMopsus, and that both fell in the duel and were buried in places that were not in sight of one another. And today their tombs are to be seen in the neighborhood ofMagarsa near thePyramus River. This was the birthplace ofCrates the grammarian, of whomPanaetius is said to have been a pupil.
§ 14.5.17 Above this coast lies theAleian Plain, through whichPhilotas led the cavalry forAlexander, whenAlexander led his phalanx fromSoli along the coast and the territory ofMallos againstIssus and the forces ofDareius. It is said thatAlexander performed sacrifices toAmphilochus because of his kinship with theArgives.Hesiod says thatAmphilochus was slain byApollo atSoli; but others say that he was slain in the neighborhood of theAleian Plain, and others inSyria, when he was quitting theAleian Plain because of the quarrel.
§ 14.5.18 AfterMallos one comes toAegaeae, a small town, with a mooring-place; and then to the AmanidesGates, with a mooring-place, where ends the mountainAmanus, which extends down from theTaurus and lies aboveCilicia towards the east. It was always ruled by several powerful tyrants, who possessed strongholds; but in my time a notable man established himself as lord of all, and was named king by the Romans because of his manly virtues — I refer toTarcondimotus, who bequeathed the succession to his posterity.
§ 14.5.19 AfterAegaeae, one comes toIssus, a small town with a mooring-place, and to thePinarus River. It was here that the struggle betweenAlexander andDareius occurred; and the gulf is called theIssian Gulf. On this gulf are situated the cityRhosus, the cityMyriandrus,Alexandreia,Nicopolis,Mopsuestia, andPylae as it is called, which is the boundary between theCilicians and the Syrians. InCilicia is also the sanctuary and oracle of the SarpedonianArtemis; and the oracles are delivered by persons who are divinely inspired.
§ 14.5.20 AfterCilicia the first Syrian city isSeleuceia in Pieria, near which theOrontes River empties. The voyage fromSeleuceia toSoli, on a straight course, is but little short of one thousand stadia.
§ 14.5.21 Since the Cilicians in theTroad whomHomer mentions are far distant from theCilicians outside theTaurus, some represent those inTroy as original colonizers of the latter, and point out certain places of the same name there, as, for example,Thebe andLyrnessus inPamphylia, whereas others of contrary opinion point out also anAleian Plain in the former. Now that the parts of the aforesaid peninsula outside theTaurus have been described, I must add what follows.
§ 14.5.22 Apollodorus, in his work On theCatalogue of Ships, goes on to say to this effect, that all the allies of theTrojans fromAsia were enumerated by the poet as being inhabitants of the peninsula, of which the narrowest isthmus is that between the innermost recess atSinope andIssus. And the exterior sides of this peninsula, he says, which is triangular in shape, are unequal in length, one of them extending fromCilicia to theChelidonian Islands, another from theChelidonian Islands to the mouth of theEuxine, and the third thence back toSinope. Now the assertion that the allies were alone those who lived in the peninsula can be proved wrong by the same arguments by which I have previously shown that the allies were not alone those who lived this side theHalys River. For just as the places roundPharnacia, in which, as I said, theHalizoni lived, are outside theHalys River, so also they are outside the isthmus, if indeed they are outside the narrows betweenSinope andIssus; and not outside these alone, but also outside the true narrows betweenAmisus andIssus, for he too incorrectly defines the isthmus and its narrows, since he substitutes the former for the latter. But the greatest absurdity is this, that, after calling the peninsula triangular in shape, he represents the "exterior sides" as three in number; for when he speaks of the "exterior sides" he seems privily to exclude the side along the narrows, as though this too were a side, but not "exterior" or on the sea. If, then, these narrows were so shortened that the exterior side ending atIssus and that ending atSinope lacked but little of joining one another, one might concede that the peninsula should be called triangular; but, as it is, since the narrows mentioned by him leave a distance of three thousand stadia betweenIssus andSinope, it is ignorance and not knowledge of chorography to call such a four-sided figure triangular. Yet he published in the metre of comedy a work on chorography entitled A Description of theEarth. The same ignorance still remains even though one should reduce the isthmus to the minimum distance, I mean, to one-half of the whole distance, as given by those who have most belied the facts, among whom is alsoArtemidorus, that is, fifteen hundred stadia; for even this does contract the side along the narrows enough to make the peninsula a triangular figure. Neither doesArtemidorus correctly distinguish the exterior sides when he speaks of "the side that extends fromIssus as far as theChelidonian Islands," for there still remains to this side the whole of theLycian coast, which lies in a straight line with the side he mentions, as does also thePeraea of theRhodians as far asPhyscus. And thence the mainland bends and begins to form the second, or westerly, side extending as far as thePropontis andByzantium.
§ 14.5.23 But thoughEphorus said that this peninsula was inhabited by sixteen tribes, of which three were Hellenic and the rest barbarian, except those that were mixed, adding that theCilicians,Pamphylians,Lycians,Bithynians,Paphlagonians,Mariandynians,Trojans, andCarians lived on the sea, but thePisidians,Mysians,Chalybians,Phrygians, andMilyans in the interior,Apollodorus, who passes judgment upon this matter, says that the tribe of theGalatians, which is more recent than the time ofEphorus, is a seventeenth, and that, of the aforesaid tribes, the Hellenic had not yet, in the time of theTrojan War, settled there, and that the barbarian tribes are much confused because of the lapse of time; and that the poet names in hisCatalogue the tribes of theTrojans and of thePaphlagonians, as they are now named, and of theMysians andPhrygians andCarians andLycians, as also the Meionians, instead of theLydians, and other unknown peoples, as, for example, theHalizones andCaucones; and, outside theCatalogue, the Ceteians and theSolymi and theCilicians from the plain ofThebe and theLeleges, but nowhere names thePamphylians,Bithynians,Mariandynians,Pisidians,Chalybians,Milyans, orCappadocians — some because they had not yet settled in this region, and others because they were included among other tribes, as, for example, the Hidrieis and theTermilae among theCarians, and theDoliones andBebryces among thePhrygians.
§ 14.5.24 But obviouslyApollodorus does not pass a fair judgment upon the statement ofEphorus, and also confuses and falsifies the words of the poet; for he ought first to have askedEphorus this question: Why he placed theChalybians inside the peninsula when they were so far distant towards the east from bothSinope andAmisus? For those who say that the isthmus of this peninsula is the line fromIssus to theEuxine make this line a kind of meridian, which some think should be the line toSinope, and others, that toAmisus, but no one that to the land of theChalybians, which is absolutely oblique; in fact, the meridian through the land of theChalybians would be drawn through LesserArmenia and theEuphrates, cutting off on this side of it the whole ofCappadocia,Commagene, Mt.Amanus, and theIssian Gulf. If, however, we should concede that the oblique line bounds the isthmus, at least most of these places, andCappadocia in particular, would be cut off on this side, as also the country now calledPontus in the special sense of the term, which is a part ofCappadocia towards theEuxine; so that, if the land of theChalybians must be set down as a part of the peninsula, much more shouldCataonia and bothCappadocias, as alsoLycaonia, which is itself omitted by him. Again, why didEphorus place in the interior theChalybians, whom the poet calledHalizones, as I have already demonstrated? For it would have been better to divide them and set one part of them on the sea and the other in the interior, as should also be done in the case ofCappadocia andCilicia; butEphorus does not even nameCappadocia, and speaks only of theCilicians on the sea. Now as for the people who were subject toAntipater Derbetes, and theHomonadeis and several other peoples who border on thePisidians,"men who do not know the sea and even do not eat food mingled with salt, where are they to be placed? Neither does he say in regard to theLydians or Meiones whether they are two peoples or the same, or whether they live separately by themselves or are included within another tribe. For it would be impossible to lose from sight so significant a tribe; and ifEphorus says nothing about it, would he not seem to have omitted something most important?
§ 14.5.25 And who are the "mixed" tribes? For we would be unable to say that, as compared with the aforesaid places, others were either named or omitted by "him which we shall assign to the "mixed" tribes; neither can we call "mixed" any of these peoples themselves whom he has mentioned or omitted; for, even if they had become mixed, still the predominant element has made them either Hellenes or barbarians; and I know nothing of a third tribe of people that is "mixed."
§ 14.5.26 And how can there be three Hellenic tribes that live on the peninsula? For if it is because theAthenians and theIonians were the same people in ancient times, let also theDorians and theAeolians be called the same people; and thus there would be only two tribes. But if one should make distinctions in accordance with the customs of later times, as, for example, in accordance with dialects, then the tribes, like the dialects, would be four in number. But this peninsula, particularly in accordance with the division ofEphorus, is inhabited, not only byIonians, but also byAthenians, as I have shown in my account of the several places. Now although it is worth while to raise such questions as these with reference toEphorus, yetApollodorus took no thought for them and also goes on to add to the sixteen tribes a seventeenth, that of theGalatians — in general a useful thing to do, but unnecessary for the passing of judgment upon what is said or omitted byEphorus. ButApollodorus states the reason himself, that all this is later than the time ofEphorus.
§ 14.5.27 Passing to the poet,Apollodorus rightly says that much confusion of the barbarian tribes has taken place from theTrojan times to the present because of the changes, for some of them have been added to, others have vanished, others have been dispersed, and others have been combined into one tribe. But he incorrectly sets forth as twofold the reason why the poet does not mention some of them; either because a country was not yet inhabited by this or that tribe or because this or that tribe was included within another; for instance, the poet fails to mentionCappadocia,Cataonia, and likewiseLycaonia, but for neither of these reasons, for we have no history of this kind in their case. Further, it is ridiculous thatApollodorus should concern himself about the reason whyHomer omitted theCappadocians andLycaonians and speak in his defence, and yet should himself omit to tell the reason whyEphorus omitted them, and that too when he had cited the statement of the man for the very purpose of examining it and passing judgment upon it; and also to teach us whyHomer mentioned Meionians instead ofLydians, but not to remark thatEphorus mentions neitherLydians nor Meionians.
§ 14.5.28 After saying that the poet mentions certain unknown tribes,Apollodorus rightly names theCauconians, theSolymi, the Ceteians, theLeleges, and theCilicians of the plain ofThebe; but theHalizones are a fabrication of his own, or rather of the first men who, not knowing who theHalizones were, wrote the name in several different ways and fabricated the "birthplace of silver" and many other mines, all of which have given out. And in furtherance of their emulous desire they also collected the stories cited byDemetrius ofScepsis fromCallisthenes and certain other writers, who were not free from the false notions about theHalizones. Likewise the wealth ofTantalus and thePelopidae arose from the mines roundPhrygia andSipylus; that ofCadmus from those roundThrace and Mt.Pangaeus; that ofPriam from the gold mines at Astyra nearAbydus (of which still today there are small remains; here the amount of earth thrown out is considerable, and the excavations are signs of the mining in olden times); and that ofMidas from those round Mt. Bermius; and that ofGyges andAlyattes andCroesus from thoseLydia and from the region betweenAtarneus andPergamum, where is a small deserted town, whose lands have been exhausted of ore.
§ 14.5.29 Still further one might find fault withApollodorus, because, when the more recent writers make numerous innovations contrary to the statements ofHomer, he is wont frequently to put these innovations to the test, but in the present case he not only has made small account of them, but also, on the contrary, identifies things that are not meant alike; for instance,Xanthus theLydian says that it was after theTrojan War that thePhrygians came from Europe and the left-hand side of thePontus, and that Scamandrius led them from theBerecyntes andAscania, butApollodorus adds to this the statement thatHomer refers to thisAscania that is mentioned byXanthus: "AndPhorcys and godlikeAscanius led thePhrygians from afar, fromAscania. However, if this is so, the migration must have taken place later than theTrojan War, whereas the allied force mentioned by the poet came from the opposite mainland, from theBerecyntes andAscania. Who, then, were thePhrygians,"who were then encamped along the banks of theSangarius, whenPriam says, "for I too, being an ally, was numbered among these? And how couldPriam have sent forPhrygians from theBerecyntes, with whom he had no compact, and yet leave uninvited those who lived on his borders and to whom he had formerly been ally? And after speaking in this way about thePhrygians he adds also an account of theMysians that is not in agreement with this; for he says that there is also a village inMysia which is calledAscania, near a lake of the same name, whence flows theAscanius River, which is mentioned byEuphorion,"beside the waters of theMysianAscanius, and byAlexander theAitolian,"who have their homes on theAscanian streams, on the lips of theAscanian Lake, where dwelt Dolion, the son ofSilenus andMelia. And he says that the country roundCyzicus, as one goes to Miletupolis, is called Dolionis andMysia. If this is so, then, and if witness thereto is borne both by the places now pointed out and by the poets, what could have preventedHomer from mentioning thisAscania, and not theAscania spoken of byXanthus? I have discussed this before, in my account of theMysians andPhrygians; and therefore let this be the end of that subject.
§ 14.6.1 Cyprus It remains for me to describe the island which lies alongside this peninsula on the south, I meanCyprus. I have already said that the sea surrounded byEgypt,Phoenicia,Syria, and the rest of the coast as far asRhodia consists approximately of theEgyptian andPamphylian Seas and of the sea at the gulf ofIssus. In this last sea liesCypros; its northern parts closely approachCilicia Tracheia, where they are closest to the mainland, and its eastern parts border on theIssian Gulf, and its western on thePamphylian Sea, being washed by that sea, and its southern by theEgyptian Sea. Now theEgyptian Sea is confluent on the west with the Libyan andCarpathian Seas, but in its southern and eastern parts borders onEgypt and the coast next thereafter as far asSeleuceia andIssus, and towards the north onCypros and thePamphylian Sea; but thePamphylian Sea is surrounded on the north by the extremities ofCilicia Tracheia, ofPamphylia, and ofLycia, as far asRhodia, and on the west by the island of theRhodians, and on the east by the part ofCypros nearPaphos and theAcamas, and on the south is confluent with theEgyptian Sea.
§ 14.6.2 The circuit ofCypros is three thousand four hundred and twenty stadia, including the sinuosities of the gulfs. The length fromCleides to theAcamas by land, travelling from east to west, is one thousand four hundred stadia. TheCleides are two isles lying offCypros opposite the eastern parts of the island, which are seven hundred stadia distant from thePyramus. TheAcamas is a promontory with two breasts and much timber. It is situated at the western part of the island, and extends towards the north; it lies closest toSelinus inCilicia Tracheia, the passage across being one thousand stadia, whereas the passage across toSide inPamphylia is one thousand sixteen hundred and to theChelidonian islands one thousand nine hundred. The shape of the island as a whole is oblong; and in some places it forms isthmuses on the sides which define its breadth. But the island also has its several parts, which I shall describe briefly, beginning with the point that is nearest to the mainland.
§ 14.6.3 I have said somewhere that opposite toAnemurium, a cape ofCilicia Tracheia, is the promontory of theCyprians, I mean the promontory ofCrommyus, at a distance of three hundred and fifty stadia. Thence forthwith, keeping the island on the right and the mainland on the left, the voyage to theCleides lies in a straight line towards the north-east, a distance of seven hundred stadia. In the interval is the cityLapathus, with a mooring-place and dockyards; it was founded byLaconians andPraxander, and opposite it liesNagidus. Then one comes toAphrodisium, where the island is narrow, for the passage across toSalamis is only seventy stadia. Then to thebeach of the Achaeans, whereTeucer, the founder ofSalamis inCypros, first landed, having been banished, as they say, by his fatherTelamon. Then to a cityCarpasia, with a harbor. It is situated opposite the promontorySarpedon; and the passage fromCarpasia across the isthmus to theCarpasian Islands and the southern sea is thirty stadia. Then to a promontory and mountain. The mountain peak is calledOlympus; and it has a sanctuary ofAphrodite Acraea, which cannot be entered or seen by women. Off it, and near it, lie theCleides, as also several other islands; and then one comes to theCarpasian Islands; and, after these, toSalamis, whereAristus the historian was born. Then toArsinoe, a city and harbor. Then to another harbor,Leucolla. Then to a promontory,Pedalium, above which lies a hill that is rugged, high, trapezium-shaped, and sacred toAphrodite, whereto the distance from theCleides is six hundred stadia. Then comes the coasting-voyage toCitium, which for the most part is sinuous and rough.Citium has a harbor that can be closed; and here were born bothZeno, the original founder of theStoic sect, andApollonius, a physician. The distance thence toBerytus is one thousand five hundred stadia. Then to the cityAmathus, and, in the interval, to a small town calledPalaea, and to a breast-shaped mountain calledOlympus. Then toCurias, which is peninsula-like, whereto the distance fromThroni is seven hundred stadia. Then to a cityCurium, which has a mooring-place and was founded by theArgives. One may therefore see at once the carelessness of the poet who wrote the elegy that begins, "we hinds, sacred toPhoebus, racing across many billows, came hither in our swift course to escape the arrows of our pursuers, whether the author wasHedylus or someone else; for he says that the hinds set out from theCorycian heights and swam across from theCilician shore to the beach ofCurias, and further says that "it is a matter of untold amazement to men to think how we ran across the impassable stream by the aid of a vernal west wind; for while there is a voyage round the island fromCorycus to the beachCurias, which is made neither by the aid of a west wind nor by keeping the island on the right nor on the left, there is no passage across the sea between the two places. At any rate,Curium is the beginning of the westerly voyage in the direction ofRhodes; and immediately one comes to a promontory, whence are flung those who touch the altar ofApollo. Then toTreta, and to Boosura, and toPalaepaphus, which last is situated at about ten stadia above the sea, has a mooring-place, and an ancient sanctuary of thePaphianAphrodite. Then to the promontoryZephyria, with a landing-place, and to anotherArsinoe, which likewise has a landing-place and a sanctuary and a sacred grove. And at a little distance from the sea isHierocepis. Then toPaphus, which was founded byAgapenor, and has both a harbor and well-built sanctuaries. It is sixty stadia distant fromPalaepaphus by land; and on this road men together with women, who also assemble here from the other cities, hold an annual procession toPalaepaphus. Some say that the distance fromPaphus toAlexandria is three thousand six hundred stadia. Then, afterPaphus, one comes to theAcamas promontory. Then, after theAcamas, towards the east, one sails to a cityArsinoe and the sacred grove ofZeus. Then to a citySoli, with a harbor and a river and a sanctuary ofAphrodite andIsis. It was founded byPhalerus andAcamas,Athenians; and the inhabitants are calledSolians; and here was bornStasanor, one of the comrades ofAlexander, who was thought worthy of a chief command; and above it, in the interior, lies a cityLimenia. And then to the promontory ofCrommyus.
§ 14.6.4 But why should one wonder at the poets, and particularly at writers of the kind that are wholly concerned about style, when we compare the statements ofDamastes, who gives the length of the island as from north to south, "fromHierocepias," as he says, "toCleides"? Neither isEratosthenes correct, for, although he censuresDamastes, he says thatHierocepias is not on the north but on the south; for it is not on the south either, but on the west, since it lies on the western side, where are alsoPaphus and theAcamas. Such is the geographical position ofCypros.
§ 14.6.5 In fertilityCypros is not inferior to any one of the islands, for it produces both good wine and good oil, and also a sufficient supply of grain for its own use. And atTamassus there are abundant mines of copper, in which is found chalcanthite and also the rust of copper, which latter is useful for its medicinal properties.Eratosthenes says that in ancient times the plains were thickly overgrown with forests, and therefore were covered with woods and not cultivated; that the mines helped a little against this, since the people would cut down the trees to burn the copper and the silver, and that the building of the fleets further helped, since the sea was now being navigated safely, that is, with naval forces, but that, because they could not thus prevail over the growth of the timber, they permitted anyone who wished, or was able, to cut out the timber and to keep the land thus cleared as his own property and exempt from taxes.
§ 14.6.6 Now in the earlier times the several cities of theCyprians were under the rule of tyrants, but from the time the Ptolemaic kings became established as lords ofEgyptCypros too came into their power, the Romans often cooperating with them. But when the lastPtolemy that reigned, the brother of the father ofCleopatra, the queen in my time, was decreed to be both disagreeable and ungrateful to his benefactors, he was deposed, and the Romans took possession of the island; and it has become a praetorian province by itself. The chief cause of the ruin of the king wasPublius Claudius Pulcher; for the latter, having fallen into the hands of the bands ofpirates, theCilicians then being at the height of their power, and, being asked for a ransom, sent a message to the king, begging him to send and rescue him. The king indeed sent a ransom, but so utterly small that thepirates disdained to take it and sent it back again, but released him without ransom. Having safely escaped, he remembered the favour of both; and, when he became tribune of the people, he was so powerful that he hadMarcus Cato sent to takeCypros away from its possessor. Now the king killed himself beforehand, butCato went over and tookCypros and disposed of the king's property and carried the money to the Roman treasury. From that time the island became a province, just as it is now — a praetorian province. During a short intervening timeAntony gave it over toCleopatra and her sisterArsinoe, but when he was overthrown his whole organization was overthrown with him.
§ 15.1.1 The parts ofAsia which remain to be described are those without theTaurus, exceptCilicia,Pamphylia, andLycia; extending fromIndia to theNile, and situated between theTaurus and the exterior Southern Sea. Next toAsia is Africa, which I shall describe hereafter. At present I shall begin fromIndia, the first and the largest country situated towards the east.
§ 15.1.2 The reader must receive the account of this country with indulgence, for it lies at a very great distance, and few persons of our nation have seen it; those also who have visited it have seen only some portions of it; the greater part of what they relate is from report, and even what they saw, they became acquainted with during their passage through the country with an army, and in great haste. For this reason they do not agree in their accounts of the same things, although they write about them as if they had examined them with the greatest care and attention. Some of these writers were fellow-soldiers and fellow-travellers, as those who belonged to the army which, under the command ofAlexander, conqueredAsia; yet they frequently contradict each other. If, then, they differ so much respecting things which they had seen, what must we think of what they relate from report?
§ 15.1.3 Nor do the writers who, many ages sinceAlexander's time, have given an account of these countries, nor even those who at present make voyages thither, afford any precise information.
Apollodorus, for instance, author of theParthian History, when he mentions the Greeks who occasioned the revolt ofBactriana from the Syrian kings, who were the successors ofSeleucus Nicator, says, that when they became powerful they invadedIndia. He adds no discoveries to what was previously known, and even asserts, in contradiction to others, that theBactrians had subjected to their dominion a larger portion ofIndia than theMacedonians; for Eucratidas (one of these kings) had a thousand cities subject to his authority. But other writers affirm that theMacedonians conquered nine nations situated between theHydaspes and theHypanis, and obtained possession of five hundred cities, not one of which was less thanCos Meropis, and thatAlexander, after having conquered all this country, delivered it up toPorus.
§ 15.1.4 Very few of the merchants who now sail fromEgypt by theNile and theArabian Gulf toIndia have proceeded as far as theGanges; and, being ignorant persons, were not qualified to give an account of places they have visited. From one place inIndia, and from one king, namely,Pandion, or, according to others,Porus, presents and embassies were sent toAugustus Caesar. With the ambassadors came theIndianGymnosophist, who committed himself to the flames atAthens, likeCalanus, who exhibited the same spectacle in the presence ofAlexander.
§ 15.1.5 If, then, we set aside these stories, and direct our attention to accounts of the country prior to the expedition ofAlexander, we shall find them still more obscure. It is probable thatAlexander, elated by his extraordinary good fortune, believed these accounts.
According toNearchus,Alexander was ambitious of conducting his army throughGedrosia, when he heard thatSemiramis andCyrus had undertaken expeditions againstIndia (through this country), although both had abandoned the enterprise, the former escaping with twenty, andCyrus with seven men only. For he considered that it would be a glorious achievement for him to lead a conquering army safe through the same nations and countries whereSemiramis andCyrus had suffered such disasters.Alexander, therefore, believed these stories.
§ 15.1.6 But how can we place any just confidence in the accounts ofIndia derived from such expeditions as those ofCyrus andSemiramis?Megasthenes concurs in this opinion; he advises persons not to credit the ancient histories ofIndia, for, except the expeditions ofHercules, ofBacchus, and the later invasion ofAlexander, no army was ever sent out of their country by theIndians, nor did any foreign enemy ever invade or conquer it.Sesostris theEgyptian (he says), and Tearco theEthiopian, advanced as far as Europe; and Nabocodrosor, who was more celebrated among theChaldaeans thanHercules among the Greeks, penetrated even as far as thePillars, which Tearco also reached;Sesostris conducted an army fromIberia toThrace andPontus;Idanthyrsus the Scythian overranAsia as far asEgypt; but not one of these persons proceeded as far asIndia, andSemiramis died before her intended enterprise was undertaken. ThePersians had sent for theHydraces fromIndia, a body of mercenary troops; but they did not lead an army into that country, and only approached it whenCyrus was marching against theMassagetae.
§ 15.1.7 Megasthenes, and a few others, think the stories respectingHercules andBacchus to be credible, but the majority of writers, among whom isEratosthenes, regard them as incredible and fabulous, like the Grecian stories.Dionysus, in theBacchae ofEuripides, makes this boasting speech: "But now fromLydia's field,
With gold abounding, from thePhrygian realm
And that ofPersia scorch'd by torrid suns,
Pressing throughBactrian gates, the frozen land
OfMedia, and throughAraby the Blest,
WithAsia's wide extended continent".
InSophocles, also, a person is introduced speaking the praises ofNysa as being a mountain sacred toBacchus: "whence I beheld the famedNysa, the resort of the Bacchanalian bands, which the hornedIacchus makes his most pleasant and beloved retreat, where no bird's clang is heard," and so on. [He is called also Merotraphes.]
Homer also mentionsLycurgus theEdonian in these words, "who formerly pursued the nurses of the infuriateBacchus along the sacred mountainNysa."
So much respectingBacchus. But with regard toHercules, some persons say, that he penetrated to the opposite extremities on the west only, while others maintain that he also advanced to those of the east.
§ 15.1.8 From such stories as those related above, they gave the name of Nysaeans to some imaginary nation, and called their cityNysa, founded byBacchus; a mountain above the city they called Meron, alleging as a reason for imposing these names that the ivy and vine grow there, although the latter does not perfect its fruit; for the bunches of grapes, in consequence of excessive rains, drop off before they arrive at maturity.
They say, also, that theSydracae (Oxydracae) are descendants ofBacchus, because the vine grows in their country, and because their kings display great pomp in setting out on their warlike expeditions, after the Bacchie manner; whenever they appear in public, it is with beating of drums, and are dressed in flowered robes, which is the common custom among the otherIndians. 13 WhenAlexander took, on the first assault,Aornos, a fortress on a rock, the foot of which is washed by theIndus near its source, his flatterers exaggerated this act, and said thatHercules thrice assailed this rock and was thrice repulsed.
They pretended that theSibae were descended from the people who accompaniedHercules in his expedition, and that they retained badges of their descent; that they wore skins likeHercules, and carried clubs, and branded with the mark of a club theiroxen and mules. They confirm this fable with stories aboutCaucasus andPrometheus, for they transferred hither fromPontus these tales, on the slight pretence that they had seen a sacred cave among theParopamisadae. This they alleged was the prison ofPrometheus, thatHercules came hither to releasePrometheus, and that this mountain was theCaucasus, to which the Greeks representPrometheus as having been bound.
§ 15.1.9 That these are the inventions of the flatterers ofAlexander is evident, first, because the writers do not agree with one another, some of whom speak of these things; others make no mention of them whatever. For it is not probable, that actions so illustrious, and calculated to foster pride and vanity, should be unknown, or if known, that they should not be thought worthy of record, especially by writers of the greatest credit.
Besides, the intervening people, through whose country the armies ofBacchus andHercules must have marched in their way toIndia, do not exhibit any proofs of their passage through the country. The kind of dress, too, ofHercules is much more recent than the memorials ofTroy, an invention of those who composed the Heracleia (or exploits ofHercules,) whether it werePeisander or some one else who composed it. But the ancient wooden statues do not representHercules in that attire.
§ 15.1.10 Under such circumstances, therefore, we must receive everything that approaches nearest to probability. I have already discussed this subject to the extent of my ability at the beginning of this work; I shall now assume those opinions as clearly proved, and shall add whatever may seem to be required for the sake of perspicuity.
It appeared from the former discussion, that in the summary given byEratosthenes, in the third book of his Geography, is contained the most credible account of the country considered asIndia at the time of its invasion byAlexander.
At that period theIndus was the boundary of'India and ofAriana, situated towards the west, and in the possession of thePersians, for afterwards theIndians occupied a larger portion ofAriana, which they had received from theMacedonians.
The account ofEratosthenes is as follows:—
§ 15.1.11 The boundaries ofIndia, on the north, fromAriana to the Eastern Sea, are the extremities ofTaurus, to the several parts of which the natives give, besides others, the names ofParopamisus,Emodus, andImaus, but theMacedonians call themCaucasus; on the west, the riverIndus; the southern and eastern sides, which are much larger than the others, project towards theAtlantic Sea, and the figure of the country becomes rhomboidal, each of the greater sides exceeding the opposite by 3000 stadia; and this is the extent of the extremity, common to the eastern and southern coast, and which projects beyond the rest of that coast equally on the east and south.
The western side, from theCaucasian mountains to the Southern Sea, is estimated at 13,000 stadia, along the riverIndus to its mouth; wherefore the eastern side opposite, with the addition of the 3000 stadia of the promontory, will be 16,000 stadia in extent. This is both the smallest and greatest breadth ofIndia. The length is reckoned from west to east. The part of this extending (from theIndus) as far asPalibothra we may describe more confidently; for it has been measured by Schoeni, and is a royal road of 10,000 stadia. The extent of the parts beyond depends upon conjecture derived from the ascent of vessels from the sea by theGanges toPalibothra. This may be estimated at 6000 stadia.
The whole, on the shortest computation, will amount to 16,000 stadia, according toEratosthenes, who says that he took it from the register of theStathmi (or the several stages from place to place), which was received as authentic, andMegasthenes agrees with him. ButPatrocles says, that the sum of the whole is less by 1000 stadia. If again we add to this distance the extent of the extremity which advances far towards the east, the greatest length ofIndia will be 3000 stadia; this length is reckoned from the mouths of the riverIndus along the coast, in a line with the mouths to the above-mentioned extremity and its eastern limits. Here the people calledConiaci live.
§ 15.1.12 From what has been said, we may perceive how the opinions of the other writers differ from one another.Ctesias says thatIndia is not less than the rest ofAsia;Onesicritus regards it as the third part of the habitable world;Nearchus says that it is a march of four months through the plain only. The computations ofMegasthenes andDeimachus are more moderate, for they estimate the distance from the Southern Sea toCaucasus at above 20,000 stadia.Deimachus says that in some places it exceeds 30,000 stadia.
We have replied to these writers in the early part of this work. At present it is sufficient to say that these opinions are in favour of the writers who, in describingIndia, solicit indulgence if they do not advance anything with confidence.
§ 15.1.13 The whole ofIndia is watered by rivers, some of which empty themselves into the two largest, theIndus and theGanges; others discharge themselves into the sea by their own mouths. But all of them have their sources in theCaucasus. At their commencement their course is towards the south; some of them continue to flow in the same direction, particularly those which unite with theIndus; others turn to the east, as theGanges. This, the largest of theIndian rivers, descends from the mountainous country, and when it reaches the plains, turns to the east, then flowing pastPalibothra, a very large city, proceeds onwards to the sea in that quarter, and discharges its waters by a single mouth. TheIndus falls into the Southern Sea, and empties itself by two mouths, encompassing the country calledPatalene, which resembles the Delta ofEgypt.
By the exhalation of vapours from such vast rivers, and by theEtesian winds,India, asEratosthenes affirms, is watered by summer rains, and the plains are overflowed. During the rainy season flax, millet, sesamum, rice, and bosmorum are sowed; and in the winter season, wheat, barley, pulse, and other esculent fruits of the earth with which we are not acquainted. Nearly the same animals are bred inIndia as inEthiopia andEgypt, and the rivers ofIndia produce all the animals of those countries, except the hippopotamus, althoughOnesicritus asserts that even this animal is found in them.
The inhabitants of the south resemble theEthiopians in colour, but their countenances and hair are like those of other people. Their hair does not curl, on account of the humidity of the atmosphere. The inhabitants of the north resemble theEgyptians.
§ 15.1.14 Taprobane is said to be an island, lying out at sea, distant from the most southerly parts ofIndia, which are opposite theConiaci, seven days' sail towards the south. Its length is about 8000 stadia in the direction ofEthiopia. It produces elephants.
This is the account ofEratosthenes. The accounts of other writers, in addition to this, whenever they convey exact information, will contribute to form the description (ofIndia).
§ 15.1.15 Onesicritus, for example, says ofTaprobane, that its magnitude is 5000 stadia, without distinction of length or breadth, and that it is distant twenty days' sail from the continent, but that it was a voyage performed with difficulty and danger by vessels with sails ill constructed, and built with prows at each end, but without holds and keels; that there are other islands between this andIndia, but thatTaprobane lies farthest to the south; that there are found in the sea, about the island, animals of the cetaceous kind, in form likeoxen,horses, and other land-animals.
§ 15.1.16 Nearchus, speaking of the accretion of earth formed by the rivers, adduces these instances. The plains ofHermos,Cayster,Maeander, andCaicus have these names, because they have been formed by the soil which has been carried over the plains by the rivers; or rather they were produced by the fine and soft soil brought down from the mountains; whence the plains are, as it were, the offspring of the rivers, and it is rightly said, that the plains belong to the rivers. What is said byHerodotus of theNile, and of the land about it, may be applied to this country, namely, that it is the gift of theNile. HenceNearchus thinks that theNile had properly the synonym ofEgypt.
§ 15.1.17 Aristobulus, however, says, that rain and snow fall only on the mountains and the country immediately below them, and that the plains experience neither one nor the other, but are overflowed only by the rise of the waters of the rivers; that the mountains are covered with snow in the winter; that the rains set in at the commencement of spring, and continue to increase; that at the time of the blowing of theEtesian winds they pour down impetuously, without intermission, night and day till the rising ofArcturus, and that the rivers, filled by the melting of the snow and by the rains, irrigate the flat grounds.
These things, he says, were observed by himself and by others on their journey intoIndia from theParopamisadae. This was after the setting of thePleiades, and during their stay in the mountainous country in the territory of theHypasii, and in that ofAssacanus during the winter. At the beginning of spring they descended into the plains to a large city calledTaxila, thence they proceeded to theHydaspes and the country ofPorus. During the winter they saw no rain, but only snow. The first rain which fell was atTaxila. After their descent to theHydaspes and the conquest ofPorus, their progress was eastwards to theHypanis, and thence again to theHydaspes. At this time it rained continually, and particularly during the blowing of theEtesian winds, but at the rising ofArcturus the rains ceased. They remained at theHydaspes while the ships were constructing, and began their voyage not many days before the setting of thePleiades, and were occupied during the whole autumn, winter, and the ensuing spring and summer, in sailing down the river, and arrived atPatalene about the rising of theDog-Star; during the passage down the river, which lasted ten months, they did not experience rain at any place, not even when theEtesian winds were at their height, when the rivers were full and the plains overflowed; the sea could not be navigated on account of the blowing of contrary winds, but no land breezes succeeded.
§ 15.1.18 Nearchus gives the same account, but does not agree withAristobulus respecting the rains in summer, but says that the plains are watered by rain in the summer, and that they are without rain in winter. Both writers, however, speak of the rise of the rivers.Nearchus says, that the men encamped upon theAcesines were obliged to change their situation for another more elevated, and that this was at the time of the rise of the river, and of the summer solstice.
Aristobulus gives even the measure of the height to which the river rises, namely, forty cubits, of which twenty would fill the channel beyond its previous depth up to the margin, and the other twenty are the measure of the water when it overflows the plains.
They agree also in saying that the cities placed upon mounds become islands, as inEgypt andEthiopia, and that the inundation ceases after the rising ofArcturus, when the waters recede. They add, that the ground when half dried is sowed, after having been prepared by the commonest labourer, yet the plant comes to perfection, and the produce is good. The rice, according toAristobulus, stands in water in an enclosure. It is sowed in beds. The plant is four cubits in height, with many ears, and yields a large produce. The harvest is about the time of the setting of thePleiades, and the grain is beaten out like barley. It grows inBactriana,Babylonia,Susis, and in the LowerSyria.Megillus says that it is sowed before the rains, but does not require irrigation or transplantation, being supplied with water from tanks.
The bosmorum, according toOnesicritus, is a kind of corn smaller than wheat, and grows in places situated between rivers. After it is threshed out, it is roasted; the threshers being previously bound by an oath not to carry it away unroasted from the threshing floor; a precaution to prevent the exportation of the seed.
§ 15.1.19 Aristobulus, when comparing the circumstances in which this country resembles, and those in which it differs from,Egypt andEthiopia, and observing that the swelling of theNile is occasioned by rains in the south, and of theIndian rivers by rains from the north, inquires why the intermediate places have no rain; for it does not rain in theThebais as far asSyene, nor at the places nearMeroe, nor in the parts ofIndia fromPatalene to theHydaspes. But the country situated above these parts, in which both rain and snow occur, is cultivated by the husbandman in the same manner as the country withoutIndia; for the rain and the snow supply the ground with moisture.
It is probable from what he relates that the country is subject to shocks of earthquakes, that the ground is loose and hollow by excess of moisture, and easily splits into fissures, whence even the course of rivers is altered.
He says that when he was despatched upon some business into the country, he saw a tract of land deserted, which contained more than a thousand cities with their dependent villages; theIndus, having left its proper channel, was diverted into another, on the left hand, much deeper, and precipitated itself into it like a cataract, so that it no longer watered the country by the (usual) inundation on the right hand, from which it had receded, and this was elevated above the level, not only of the new channel of the river, but above that of the (new) inundation.
§ 15.1.20 The account ofOnesicritus confirms the facts of the rising of the rivers and of the absence of land breezes. He says that the sea-shore is swampy, particularly near the mouths of rivers, on account of the mud, tides, and the force of the winds blowing from the sea.
Megasthenes also indicates the fertility ofIndia by the circumstance of the soil producing fruits and grain twice a year.Eratosthenes relates the same facts, for he speaks of a winter and a summer sowing, and of the rain at the same seasons. For there is no year, according to him, which is without rain at both those periods, whence ensues great abundance, the ground never failing to bear crops.
An abundance of fruit is produced by trees; and the roots of plants, particularly of large reeds, possess a sweetness, which they have by nature and by coction; for the water, both from rains and rivers, is warmed by the sun's rays. The meaning ofEratosthenes seems to be this, that what among other nations is called the ripening of fruits and juices, is called among these coction, and which contributes as much to produce an agreeable flavour as the coction by fire. To this is attributed the flexibility of the branches of trees, from which wheels of carriages are made, and to the same cause is imputed the growth upon some trees of wool.Nearchus says that their fine clothes were made of this wool, and that theMacedonians used it for mattresses and the stuffing of saddles. TheSerica also are of a similar kind, and are made of dry byssus, which is obtained from some sort of bark of plants. He says that reeds yield honey, although there are nobees, and that there is a tree from the fruit of which honey is procured, but that the fruit eaten fresh causes intoxication.
§ 15.1.21 India produces many singular trees. There is one whose branches incline downwards, and whose leaves are not less in size than a shield.Onesicritus, describing minutely the country ofMusicanus, which he says is the most southerly part ofIndia, relates, that there are some large trees the branches of which extend to the length even of twelve cubits. They then grow downwards, as though bent (by force), till they touch the earth, where they penetrate and take root like layers. They next shoot upwards and form a trunk. They again grow as we have described, bending downwards, and implanting one layer after another, and in the above order, so that one tree forms a long shady roof, like a tent, supported by many pillars. In speaking of the size of the trees, he says their trunks could scarcely be clasped by five men.
Aristobulus also, where he mentions theAcesines, and its confluence with theHyarotis, speaks of trees with their boughs bent downwards and of a size that fifty, but, according toOnesicritus, four hundred horsemen might take shelter at mid-day beneath the shade of a single tree.
Aristobulus mentions another tree, not large, bearing great pods, like the bean, ten fingers in length, full of honey, and says that those who eat it do not easily escape with life. But the accounts of all these writers about the size of the trees have been exceeded by those who assert that there has been seen, beyond theHyarotis, a tree which casts a shade at noon of five stadia.
Aristobulus says of the wool-bearing trees, that the flower pod contains a kernel, which is taken out, and the remainder is combed like wool.
§ 15.1.22 In the country ofMusicanus there grows, he says, spontaneously grain resembling wheat, and a vine that produces wine, whereas other authors affirm that there is no wine inIndia. Hence, according toAnacharsis, they had no pipes, nor any musical instruments, except cymbals, drums, and crotala, which were used by jugglers.
BothAristobulus and other writers relate thatIndia produces many medicinal plants and roots, both of a salutary and noxious quality, and plants yielding a variety of colours. He adds, that, by a law, any person discovering a deadly substance is punished with death unless he also discover an antidote; in case he discovers an antidote, he is rewarded by the king.
SouthernIndia, likeArabia andEthiopia, produces cinnamon, nard, and other aromatics. It resembles these countries as regards the effect of the sun's rays, but it surpasses them in having a copious supply of water, whence the atmosphere is humid, and on this account more conducive to fertility and fecundity; and this applies to the earth and to the water, hence those animals which inhabit both one and the other are of a larger size than are found in other countries. TheNile contributes to fecundity more than other rivers, and among other animals of large bulk, produces the amphibious kind. TheEgyptian women also sometimes have four children at a birth, andAristotle says that one woman had seven children at one birth. He calls theNile most fecundating and nutritive, on account of the moderate coction effected by the sun's rays, which leave behind the nutritious part of substances, and evaporate that which is superfluous.
§ 15.1.23 It is perhaps owing to this cause that the water of theNile boils, as he says, with one half of the heat which other water requires. In proportion however, he says, as the water of theNile traverses in a straight line, a long and narrow tract of country, passing through a variety of climates and of atmosphere, while theIndian rivers are poured forth into wider and more extensive plains, their course being delayed a long time in the same climate, in the same degree the waters ofIndia are more nutritious than those of theNile; they produce larger animals of the cetaceous kind, and in greater number (than theNile), and the water which descends from the clouds has already undergone the process of coction.
§ 15.1.24 This would not be admitted by the followers ofAristobulus, who say that the plains are not watered by rain.Onesicritus, however, thinks that rain-water is the cause of the peculiar properties of animals, and alleges in proof, that the colour of foreign herds which drink of it is changed to that of the native animals.
This is a just remark; but it is not proper to attribute to the power of the water merely the cause of the black complexion and the woolly hair of theEthiopians, and yet he censuresTheodectes, who refers these peculiarities to the effects of the sun, in these words, "Near these approaching with his radiant car,
The sun their skins with dusky tint doth dye,
And sooty hue; and with unvarying forms
Of fire, crisps their tufted hair.
" There may be reason in this, for he says that the sun does not approach nearer to theEthiopians than to other nations, but shines more perpendicularly, and that on this account the heat is greater; indeed, it cannot be correctly said that the sun approaches near to theEthiopians, for he is at an equal distance from all nations. Nor is the heat the cause of the black complexion, particularly of children in the womb, who are out of the reach of the sun. Their opinion is to be preferred, who attribute these effects to the sun and to intense solar heat, causing a great deficiency of moisture on the surface of the skin. Hence we say it is that theIndians have not woolly hair, nor is their colour so intensely dark, because they live in a humid atmosphere.
With respect to children in the womb, they resemble their parents (in colour) according to a seminal disposition and constitution, on the same principle that hereditary diseases, and other likenesses, are explained.
The equal distance of the sun from all nations (according toOnesicritus) is an argument addressed to the senses, and not to reason. But it is not an argument addressed to the senses generally, but in the meaning that the earth bears the proportion of a point to the sun, for we may understand such a meaning of an argument addressed to the senses, by which we estimate heat to be more or less, as it is near or at a distance, in which cases it is not the same; and in this meaning, not in that ofOnesicritus, the sun is said to be near theEthiopians.
§ 15.1.25 It is admitted by those who maintain the resemblance ofIndia toEgypt andEthiopia, that the plains which are not overflowed do not produce anything for want of water.
Nearchus says, that the old question respecting the rise of theNile is answered by the case of theIndian rivers, namely, that it is the effect of summer rains; whenAlexander saw crocodiles in theHydaspes, andEgyptian beans in theAcesines, he thought that he had discovered the sources of theNile, and was about to equip a fleet with the intention of sailing by this river toEgypt; but he found out shortly afterwards that his design could not be accomplished, "for in midway were vast rivers, fearful waters, and first the ocean," into which all theIndian rivers discharge themselves; thenAriana, thePersian andArabian Gulfs, allArabia andTroglodytica.
The above is what has been said on the subject of winds and rains, the rising of rivers, and the inundation of plains.
§ 15.1.26 We must describe these rivers in detail, with the particulars, which are useful for the purposes of geography, and which have been handed down to us by historians.
Besides this, rivers, being a kind of physical boundaries of the size and figures of countries, are of the greatest use in every part of the present work. But theNile and the rivers inIndia have a superiority above the rest, because the country could not be inhabited without them. By means of the rivers it is open to navigation and capable of cultivation, when otherwise it would not be accessible, nor could it be occupied by inhabitants.
We shall speak of the rivers deserving notice, which flow into theIndus, and of the countries which they traverse; with regard to the rest we know some particulars, but are ignorant of more.Alexander, who discovered the greatest portion of this country, first of all resolved it to be more expedient to pursue and destroy those who had treacherously killedDarius, and were meditating the revolt ofBactriana. He approachedIndia therefore throughAriana, which he left on the right hand, and crossed theParopamisus to the northern parts, and toBactriana. Having conquered all the country subject to thePersians, and many other places besides, he then entertained the desire of possessingIndia, of which he had received many, although indistinct, accounts.
He therefore returned, crossing over the same mountains by other and shorter roads, havingIndia on the left hand; he then immediately turned towards it, and towards its western boundaries and the riversCophes andChoaspes. The latter river empties itself into theCophes, near Plemyrium, after passing by another city Gorys, in its course through Bandobene and Gandaritis.
He was informed that the mountainous and northern parts were the most habitable and fertile, but that the southern part was either without water, or liable to be overflowed by rivers at one time, or entirely burnt up at another, more fit to be the haunts of wild beasts than the dwellings of men. He resolved therefore to get possession of that part ofIndia first which had been well spoken of, considering at the same time that the rivers which it was necessary to pass, and which flowed transversely through the country which he intended to attack, would be crossed with more facility near their sources. He heard also that many of the rivers united and formed one stream, and that this more frequently occurred the farther they advanced into the country, so that from want of boats it would be more difficult to traverse. Being apprehensive of this obstruction, he crossed theCophes, and conquered the whole of the mountainous country situated towards the east.
§ 15.1.27 Next to theCophes was theIndus, then theHydaspes, theAcesines, theHyarotis, and last, theHypanis. He was prevented from proceeding farther, partly from regard to some oracles, and partly compelled by his army, which was exhausted by toil and fatigue, but whose principal distress arose from their constant exposure to rain. Hence we became acquainted with the eastern parts ofIndia on this side theHypanis, and whatever parts besides which have been described by those who, afterAlexander, advanced beyond theHypanis to theGanges andPalibothra.
After the riverCophes, follows theIndus. The country lying between these two rivers is occupied by Astaceni, Masiani, Nysaei, andHypasii. Next is the territory ofAssacanus, where is the city Masoga (Massaga?), the royal residence of the country. Near theIndus is another city, Peucolaitis. At this place a bridge which was constructed afforded a passage for the army.
§ 15.1.28 Between theIndus and theHydaspes isTaxila, a large city, and governed by good laws. The neighbouring country is crowded with inhabitants and very fertile, and here unites with the plains. The people and their kingTaxiles receivedAlexander with kindness, and obtained in return more presents than they had offered toAlexander; so that theMacedonians became jealous, and observed, that it seemed as ifAlexander had found none on whom he could confer favours before he passed theIndus. Some writers say that this country is larger thanEgypt.
Above this country among the mountains is the territory of Abisarus, who, as the ambassadors that came from him reported, kept twoserpents, one of 80, and the other, according toOnesicritus, of 140 cubits in length. This writer may as well be called the master fabulist as the master pilot ofAlexander. For all those who accompaniedAlexander preferred the marvellous to the true, but this writer seems to have surpassed all in his description of prodigies. Some things, however, he relates which are probable and worthy of record, and will not be passed over in silence even by one who does not believe their correctness.
Other writers also mention the hunting ofserpents in theEmodi mountains, and the keeping and feeding of them in caves.
§ 15.1.29 Between theHydaspes andAcesines is the country ofPorus, an extensive and fertile district, containing nearly three hundred cities. Here also is the forest in the neighbourhood of theEmodi mountains in whichAlexander cut down a large quantity of fir, pine, cedar, and a variety of other trees fit for ship-building, and brought the timber down theHydaspes. With this he constructed a fleet on theHydaspes, near the cities, which he built on each side of the river where he had crossed it and conqueredPorus. One of these cities he calledBucephalia, from thehorseBucephalus, which was killed in the battle withPorus. The nameBucephalus was given to it from the breadth of its forehead. He was an excellent war-horse, andAlexander constantly rode him in battle.
The other city he calledNicaea from the victory, νικη (Nike), which he had obtained.
In the forest before mentioned it is said there is a vast number of monkeys, and as large as they are numerous. On one occasion theMacedonians, seeing a body of them standing in array opposite to them, on some bare eminences, (for this animal is not less intelligent than the elephant,) and presenting the appearance of an army, prepared to attack them as real enemies, but being informed byTaxiles, who was then with the king, of the real fact, they desisted.
The chase of this animal is conducted in two different manners. It is an imitative creature, and takes refuge up among the trees. The hunters, when they perceive a monkey seated on a tree, place in sight a basin containing water, with which they wash their own eyes; then, instead of water, they put a basin of bird-lime, go away, and lie in wait at a distance. The animal leaps down, and besmears itself with the bird-lime, and when it winks, the eyelids are fastened together; the hunters then come upon it, and take it.
The other method of capturing them is as follows: the hunters dress themselves in bags like trowsers, and go away, leaving behind them others which are downy, with the inside smeared over with bird-lime. The monkeys put them on, and are easily taken.
§ 15.1.30 Some writers place Cathaia and the country ofSopeithes, one of the nomarchs, in the tract between the rivers (Hydaspes andAcesines); some, on the other side of theAcesines and of theHyarotis, on the confines of the territory of the otherPorus, the nephew ofPorus who was taken prisoner byAlexander, and call the country subject to him Gandaris.
A very singular usage is related of the high estimation in which the inhabitants of Cathaia hold the quality of beauty, which they extend tohorses anddogs. According toOnesicritus, they elect the handsomest person as king. The child (selected), two months after birth, undergoes a public inspection, and is examined. They determine whether it has the amount of beauty required by law, and whether it is worthy to be permitted to live. The presiding magistrate then pronounces whether it is to be allowed to live, or whether it is to be put to death.
They dye their heads with various and the most florid colours, for the purpose of improving their appearance. This custom prevails elsewhere among many of theIndians, who pay great attention to their hair and dress; and the country produces colours of great beauty. In other respects the people are frugal, but are fond of ornament.
A peculiar custom is related of theCathaei. The bride and the husband are respectively the choice of each other, and the wives burn themselves with their deceased husbands. The reason assigned for this practice is, that the women sometimes fell in love with young men, and deserted or poisoned their husbands. This law was therefore established in order to check the practice of administering poison; but neither the existence nor the origin of the law are probable facts.
It is said, that in the territory ofSopeithes there is a mountain composed of fossile salt, sufficient for the whole ofIndia. Valuable mines also both of gold and silver are situated, it is said, not far off among other mountains, according to the testimony ofGorgus, the miner (ofAlexander). TheIndians, unacquainted with mining and smelting, are ignorant of their own wealth, and therefore traffic with greater simplicity.
§ 15.1.31 Thedogs in the territory ofSopeithes are said to possess remarkable courage:Alexander received fromSopeithes a present of one hundred and fifty of them. To prove them, two were set at alion; when these were mastered, two others were set on; when the battle became equal,Sopeithes ordered a man to seize one of thedogs by the leg, and to drag him away; or to cut off his leg, if he still held on.Alexander at first refused his consent to thedog's leg being cut off, as he wished to save thedog. But onSopeithes saying, 'I will give you four in the place of it,'Alexander consented; and he saw thedog permit his leg to be cut off by a slow incision, rather than loose his hold.
§ 15.1.32 The direction of the march, as far as theHydaspes, was for the most part towards the south. After that, to theHypanis, it was more towards the east. The whole of it, however, was much nearer to the country lying at the foot of the mountains than to the plains.Alexander therefore, when he returned from theHypanis to theHydaspes and the station of his vessels, prepared his fleet, and set sail on theHydaspes.
All the rivers which have been mentioned (the last of which is theHypanis) unite in one, theIndus. It is said that there are altogether fifteen considerable rivers which flow into theIndus. After theIndus has been filled by all these rivers, so as to be enlarged in some places to the extent of a hundred stadia, according to writers who exaggerate, or, according to a more moderate estimate, to fifty stadia at the utmost, and at the least to seven, [and who speak of many nations and cities about this river,] it discharges itself by two mouths into the southern sea, and forms the island calledPatalene.
Alexander's intention was to relinquish the march towards the parts situated to the east, first, because he was prevented from crossing theHypanis; next, because he learnt by experience the falsehood of the reports previously received, to the effect that the plains were burnt up with fire, and more fit for the haunts of wild beasts than for the habitation of man. He therefore set out in this direction, relinquishing the other track; so that these parts became better known than the other.
§ 15.1.33 The territory lying between theHypanis and theHydaspes is said to contain nine nations and five thousand cities, not less in size thanCos Meropis; but the number seems to be exaggerated. We have already mentioned nearly all the nations deserving of notice, which inhabit the country situated between theIndus and theHydaspes.
Below, and next in order, are the people calledSibae, whom we formerly mentioned, and the great nations, theMalli andSydracae (Oxydracae). It was among theMalli thatAlexander was in danger of losing his life, from a wound he received at the capture of a small city. TheSydracae, we have said, are fabled to be allied toBacchus.
NearPatalene is placed the country ofMusicanus, that of Sabus, whose capital is Sindomana, that ofPorticanus, and of other princes who inhabited the country on the banks of theIndus. They were all conquered byAlexander; last of all he made himself master ofPatalene, which is formed by the two branches of theIndus.Aristobulus says that these two branches are distant 1000 stadia from each other.Nearchus adds 800 stadia more to this number.Onesicritus reckons each side of the included island, which is of a triangular shape, at 2000 stadia; and the breadth of the river, where it is separated into two mouths, at about 200 stadia. He calls the island Delta, and says that it is as large as the Delta ofEgypt; but this is a mistake. For theEgyptian Delta is said to have a base of 1300 stadia, and each of the sides to be less than the base. InPatalene isPatala, a considerable city, from which the island has its name.
§ 15.1.34 Onesicritus says, that the greatest part of the coast in this quarter abounds with swamps, particularly at the mouths of the river, which is owing to the mud, the tides, and the want of land breezes; for these parts are chiefly under the influence of winds blowing from the sea.
He expatiates also in praise of the country ofMusicanus, and relates of the inhabitants what is common to otherIndian tribes, that they are long-lived, and that life is protracted even to the age of 130 years, (theSeres, however, are said by some writers to be still longer lived,) that they are temperate in their habits and healthy; although the country produces everything in abundance.
The following are their peculiarities : to have a kind ofLacedaemonian common meal, where they eat in public. Their food consists of what is taken in the chase. They make no use of gold nor silver, although they have mines of these metals. Instead of slaves, they employed youths in the flower of their age, as theCretans employ theAphamiotae, and theLacedaemonians theHelots. They study no science with attention but that of medicine; for they consider the excessive pursuit of some arts, as that of war, and the like, to be committing evil. There is no process at law but against murder and outrage, for it is not in a person's own power to escape either one or the other; but as contracts are in the power of each individual, he must endure the wrong, if good faith is violated by another; for a man should be cautious whom he trusts, and not disturb the city with constant disputes in courts of justice.
Such are the accounts of the persons who accompaniedAlexander in his expedition.
§ 15.1.35 A letter ofCraterus to his mother Aristopatra is circulated, which contains many other singular circumstances, and differs from every other writer, particularly in saying thatAlexander advanced as far as theGanges.Craterus says, that he himself saw the river, and the whales which it produces, and [his account] of its magnitude, breadth, and depth, far exceeds, rather than approximates, probability. For that theGanges is the largest of known rivers in the three continents, it is generally agreed; next to this is theIndus; and, thirdly, theDanube; and, fourthly, theNile. But different authors differ in their account of it, some assigning 30, others 3 stadia, as the least breadth. ButMegasthenes says that its ordinary width is 100 stadia, and its least depth twenty orguiae.
§ 15.1.36 At the confluence of theGanges and of another river (the Erannoboas) is situated (the city)Palibothra, in length 80, and in breadth 15 stadia. It is in the shape of a parallelogram, surrounded by a wooden wall pierced with openings through which arrows may be discharged. In front is a ditch, which serves the purpose of defence and of a sewer for the city. The people in whose country the city is situated are the most distinguished of all the tribes, and are calledPrasii. The king, besides his family name, has the surname of Palibothrus, as the king to whomMegasthenes was sent on an embassy had the name ofSandrocottus.
Such also is the custom among theParthians; for all have the name Arsacae, although each has his peculiar name ofOrodes,Phraates, or some other appellation.
§ 15.1.37 All the country on the other side of theHypanis is allowed to be very fertile, but we have no accurate knowledge of it. Either through ignorance or from its remote situation, everything relative to it is exaggerated or partakes of the wonderful. As, for example, the stories of myrmeces (or ants), which dig up gold; of animals and men with peculiar shapes, and possessing extraordinary faculties; of the longevity of theSeres, whose lives exceed the age of two hundred years. They speak also of an aristocratical form of government, consisting of five hundred counsellors, each of whom furnishes the state with an elephant.
According toMegasthenes, the largest tigers are found among thePrasii, almost twice the size oflions, and of such strength that a tame one led by four persons seized a mule by its hinder leg, overpowered it, and dragged it to him. The monkeys are larger than the largestdogs; they are of a white colour, except the face, which is black. The contrary is observed in other places. Their tails are more than two cubits in length. They are very tame, and not of a mischievous disposition. They neither attack people, nor steal.
Stones are found there of the colour of frankincense, and sweeter than figs or honey.
In some places there areserpents of two cubits in length, with membraneous wings like bats. They fly at night, and let fall drops of urine or sweat, which occasions the skin of persons who are not on their guard to putrefy. There are also winged scorpions of great size.
Ebony grows there. There are alsodogs of great courage, which do not loose their hold till water is poured into their nostrils: some of them destroy their sight, and the eyes of others even fall out, by the eagerness of their bite. Both alion and abull were held fast by one of thesedogs. Thebull was caught by the muzzle, and died before thedog could be loosened.
§ 15.1.38 In the mountainous country is a river, theSilas, on the surface of which nothing will float.Democritus, who had travelled over a large part ofAsia, disbelieves this, andAristotle does not credit it, although atmospheres exist so rare, that no bird can sustain its flight in them. Vapours also, which ascend (from some substances), attract and absorb, as it were, whatever is flying over them; as amber attracts straw, and the magnet iron, and perhaps there may be in water a similar power.
As these matters belong to physics and to the question of floating bodies, these must be referred to them. At present we must proceed to what follows, and to the subjects more nearly relating to geography.
§ 15.1.39 It is said that theIndians are divided into seven castes. The first in rank, but the smallest in number, are the philosophers. Persons who intend to offer sacrifice, or to perform any sacred rite, have the services of these persons on their private account; but the kings employ them in a public capacity at the time of the Great Assembly, as it is called, where at the beginning of the new year all the philosophers repair to the king at the gate, and anything useful which they have committed to writing, or observed, tending to improve the productions of the earth or animals, or of advantage to the government of the state, is then publicly declared.
Whoever has been detected in giving false information thrice is enjoined silence by law during the rest of his life; but he who has made correct observations is exempted from all contributions and tribute.
§ 15.1.40 The second caste is that of husbandmen, who constitute the majority of natives, and are a most mild and gentle people, as they are exempted from military service, and cultivate their land free from alarm; they do not resort to cities, either to transact private business, or take part in public tumults It therefore frequently happens that at the same time, and in the same part of the country, one body of men are in battle array, and engaged in contests with the enemy, while others are ploughing or digging in security, having these soldiers to protect them. The whole of the territory belongs to the king. They cultivate it on the terms of receiving as wages a fourth part of the produce.
§ 15.1.41 The third caste consists of shepherds and hunters, who alone are permitted to hunt, to breedcattle, to sell and to let out for hire beasts of burden. In return for freeing the country from wild beasts and birds, which infest sown fields, they receive an allowance of corn from the king. They lead a wandering life, and dwell in tents. No private person is allowed to keep ahorse or an elephant. The possession of either one or the other is a royal privilege, and persons are appointed to take care of them.
§ 15.1.42 The manner of hunting the elephant is as follows: Round a bare spot a ditch is dug, of about four or five stadia in extent, and at the place of entrance a very narrow bridge is constructed. Into the enclosure three or four of the tamest female elephants are driven. The men themselves lie in wait under cover of concealed huts. The wild elephants do not approach the females by day, but at night they enter the enclosure one by one; when they have passed the entrance, the men secretly close it. They then introduce the strongest of the tame combatants, the drivers of which engage with the wild animals, and also wear them out by famine; when the latter are exhausted by fatigue, the boldest of the drivers gets down unobserved, and creeps under the belly of his own elephant. From this position he creeps beneath the belly of the wild elephant, and ties his legs together; when this is done, a signal is given to the tame elephants to beat those which are tied by the legs, till they fall to the ground. After they have fallen down, they fasten the wild and tame elephants together by the neck with thongs of rawcow-hide, and, in order that they may not be able to shake off those who are attempting to mount them, cuts are made round the neck, and thongs of leather are put into these incisions, so that they submit to their bonds through pain, and so remain quiet. Among the elephants which are taken, those are rejected which are too old or too young for service; the remainder are led away to the stables. They tie their feet one to another, and their necks to a pillar firmly fastened in the ground, and tame them by hunger. They recruit their strength afterwards with green cane and grass. They then teach them to obey; some by words; others they pacify by tunes, accompanied with the beating of a drum. Few are difficult to be tamed; for they are naturally of a mild and gentle disposition, so as to approximate to the character of a rational animal. Some have taken up their drivers, who have fallen on the ground lifeless, and carried them safe out of battle. Others have fought, and protected their drivers, who have crept between their fore-legs. If they have killed any of their feeders or masters in anger, they feel their loss so much that they refuse their food through grief, and sometimes die of hunger.
§ 15.1.43 They copulate likehorses, and produce young chiefly in the spring. It is the season for the male, when he is in heat and is ferocious. At this period he discharges some fatty matter through an opening in the temples. It is the season also for the females, when this same passage is open, Eighteen months is the longest, and sixteen the shortest period that they go with young. The dam suckles her young six years, Many of them live as long as men who attain to the greatest longevity, some even to the protracted age of two hundred years.
They are subject to many diseases, which are difficult to be cured. A remedy for diseases of the eye is to bathe them withcow's milk. For complaints in general, they drink dark wine. In cases of wounds, they drink butter; for it draws out iron instruments, Their sores are fomented withswine's flesh.
Onesicritus says, that they live three hundred years, and rarely five hundred; and that they go with young ten years. He and other writers say, that they are larger and stronger than the African elephants. They will pull down with their trunks battlements, and uproot trees, standing erect upon their bind feet.
According toNearchus, traps are laid in the hunting grounds, at certain places where roads meet; the wild elephants are forced into the 'oils by the tame elephants, which are stronger, and guided by a driver. They become so tame and docile, that they learn even to throw a stone at a mark, to use military weapons, and to be excellent swimmers. A chariot drawn by elephants is esteemed a most important possession, and they are driven without bridles.
A woman is greatly honoured who receives from her lover a present of an elephant, but this does not agree with what he said before, that ahorse and an elephant are the property of kings alone.
§ 15.1.44 This writer says that he saw skins of the myrmeces (or ants), which dig up gold, as large as the skins of leopards.Megasthenes, however, speaking of the myrmeces, says, among theDerdae a populous nation of theIndians, living towards the east, and among the mountains, there was a mountain plain of about 3000 stadia in circumference; that below this plain were mines containing gold, which the myrmeces, in size not less thanfoxes, dig up. They are excessively fleet, and subsist on what they catch. In winter they dig holes, and pile up the earth in heaps, like moles, at the mouths of the openings.
The gold-dust which they obtain requires little preparation by fire. The neighbouring people go after it by stealth, with beasts of burden; for if it is done openly, the myrmeces fight furiously, pursuing those that run away, and if they seize them, kill them and the beasts. In order to prevent discovery, they place in various parts pieces of the flesh of wild beasts, and when the myrmeces are dispersed in various directions. they take away the gold-dust, and, not being acquainted with the mode of smelting it, dispose of it in its rude state at any price to merchants.
§ 15.1.45 Having mentioned whatMegasthenes and other writers relate of the hunters and the beasts of prey, we must add the following particulars.
Nearchus is surprised at the multitude and the noxious nature of the tribe of reptiles. They retreat from the plains to the settlements, which are not covered with water at the period of inundations, and fill the houses. For this reason the inhabitants raise their beds at some height from the ground, and are sometimes compelled to abandon their dwellings, when they are infested by great multitudes of these animals; and, if a great proportion of these multitudes were not destroyed by the waters, the country would be a desert. Both the minuteness of some animals and the excessive magnitude of others are causes of danger; the former, because it is difficult to guard against their attacks; the latter, on account of their strength, forsnakes are to be seen of sixteen cubits in length. Charmers go about the country, and are supposed to cure wounds made byserpents. This seems to comprise nearly their whole art of medicine, for disease is not frequent among them, which is owing to their frugal manner of life, and to the absence of wine; whenever diseases do occur, they are treated by theSophistae (or wise men).
Aristobulus says, that he saw no animals of these pretended magnitudes, except asnake, which was nine cubits and a span in length. And I myself saw one inEgypt, nearly of the same size, which was brought fromIndia. He says also, that he saw manyserpents of a much inferior size, and asps and large scorpions. None of these, however, are so noxious as the slender smallserpents, a span long, which are found concealed in tents, in vessels, and in hedges. Persons wounded by them bleed from every pore, suffering great pain, and die, unless they have immediate assistance; but this assistance is easily obtained, by means of the virtues of theIndian roots and drugs.
Few crocodiles, he says, are found in theIndus, and these are harmless, but most of the other animals, except the hippopotamus, are the same as those found in theNile; butOnesicritus says that this animal also is found there.
According toAristobulus, none of the sea fish ascend theNile from the sea, except the shad, the grey mullet, anddolphin, on account of the crocodiles; but great numbers ascend theIndus. Small craw-fish go up as far as the mountains, and the larger as far as the confluence of theIndus and theAcesines.
So much then on the subject of the wild animals ofIndia. We shall return toMegasthenes, and resume our account where we digressed.
§ 15.1.46 After the hunters and the shepherds, follows the fourth caste, which consists, he says, of those who work at trades, retail wares, and who are employed in bodily labour. Some of these pay taxes, and perform certain stated services. But the armour-makers and ship-builders receive wages and provisions from the king, for whom only they work. The general-in-chief furnishes the soldiers with arms, and the admiral lets out ships for hire to those who undertake voyages and traffic as merchants.
§ 15.1.47 The fifth caste consists of fighting men, who pass the time not employed in the field in idleness and drinking, and are maintained at the charge of the king. They are ready whenever they are wanted to march on an expedition, for they bring nothing of their own with them, except their bodies.
§ 15.1.48 The sixth caste is that of theEphori, or inspectors. They are intrusted with the superintendence of all that is going on, and it is their duty to report privately to the king. The city inspectors employ as their coadjutors the city courtesans; and the inspectors of the camp, the women who follow it. The best and the most faithful persons are appointed to the office of inspector.
§ 15.1.49 The seventh caste consists of counsellors and assessors of the king. To these persons belong the offices of state, tribunals of justice, and the whole administration of affairs.
It is not permitted to contract marriage with a person of another caste, nor to change from one profession or trade to another, nor for the same person to undertake several, except he is of the caste of philosophers, when permission is given, on account of his superior qualifications.
§ 15.1.50 Of the magistrates, some have the charge of the market, others of the city, others of the soldiery. Some have the care of the rivers, measure the land, as inEgypt, and inspect the closed reservoirs, from which water is distributed by canals, so that all may have an equal use of it. These persons have charge also of the hunters, and have the power of rewarding or punishing those who merit either. They collect the taxes, and superintend the occupations connected with land, as woodcutters, carpenters, workers in brass, and miners. They superintend the public roads, and place a pillar at every ten stadia, to indicate the by-ways and distances.
§ 15.1.51 Those who have charge of the city are divided into six bodies of five each. The first has the inspection of everything relating to the mechanical arts; the second entertain strangers, assign lodgings, observe their mode of life, by means of attendants whom they attach to them, escort them out of the country on their departure; if they die, take charge of their property, have the care of them when sick, and when they die, bury them.
The third class consists of those who inquire at what time and in what manner births and deaths take place, which is done with a view to tax (on these occasions), and in order that the deaths and births of persons both of good and bad character should not be concealed.
The fourth division consists of those who are occupied in sales and exchanges; they have the charge of measures, and of the sale of the products in season, by a signal. The same person is not allowed to exchange various kinds of articles, except he pays a double tax.
The fifth division presides over works of artisans, and disposes of articles by public notice. The new are sold apart from the old, and there is a fine imposed for mixing them together. The sixth and last comprises those who collect the tenth of the price of the articles sold. Death is the punishment for committing a fraud with regard to the tax.
These are the peculiar duties performed by each class, but in their collective capacity they have the charge both of their own peculiar province and of civil affairs, the repairs of public works, prices of articles, of markets, harbours, and temples.
§ 15.1.52 Next to the magistrates of the city is a third body of governors, who have the care of military affairs. This class also consists of six divisions, each composed of five persons. One division is associated with the chief naval superintendent, another with the person who has the charge of the bullock-teams, by which military engines are transported, of provisions both for the men and beasts, and other requisites for the army. They furnish attendants, who beat a drum, and carry gongs; and besides these, grooms, mechanists, and their assistants. They despatch by the sound of the gong the foragers for grass, and insure expedition and security by rewards and punishments. The third division has the care of the infantry; the fourth, of thehorses; the fifth, of the chariots; the sixth, of the elephants. There are royal stables for thehorses and elephants. There is also a royal magazine of arms; for the soldier returns his arms to the armoury, and thehorse and elephant to the stables. They use the elephants without bridles. The chariots are drawn on the march byoxen. Thehorses are led by a halter, in order that their legs may not be chafed and inflamed, nor their spirit damped, by drawing chariots. Besides the charioteer, there are two persons who fight by his side in the chariot. With the elephant are four persons, the driver and three bowmen, who discharge arrows from his back.
§ 15.1.53 All theIndians are frugal in their mode of life, and especially in camp. They do not tolerate useless and undisciplined multitudes, and consequently observe good order. Theft is very rare among them.Megasthenes, who was in the camp ofSandrocottus, which consisted of 400,000 men, did not witness on any day thefts reported, which exceeded the sum of two hundred drachmae, and this among a people who have no written laws, who are ignorant even of writing, and regulate everything by memory. They are, however, happy on account of their simple manners and frugal way of life. They never drink wine, but at sacrifices. Their beverage is made from rice instead of barley, and their food consists for the most part of rice pottage. The simplicity of their laws and contracts appears from their not having many law-suits. They have no suits respecting pledges and deposits, nor do they require witnesses or seals, but make their deposits, and confide in one another. Their houses and property are unguarded. These things denote temperance and sobriety; others no one would approve, as their eating always alone, and their not having all of them one common hour for their meals, but each taking it as he likes. The contrary custom is more agreeable to the habits of social and civil life.
§ 15.1.54 As an exercise of the body they prefer friction in various ways, but particularly by making use of smooth sticks of ebony, which they pass over the surface of the body.
Their sepulchres are plain, and the tumuli of earth low.
In contrast to their parsimony in other things, they indulge in ornament. They wear dresses worked with gold and precious stones, and flowered (variegated) robes, and are attended by persons following them with umbrellas; for as they highly esteem beauty, everything is attended to, which can improve their looks.
They respect alike truth and virtue; therefore they do not assign any privilege to the old, unless they possess superior wisdom.
They marry many wives, who are purchased from their parents, and give in exchange for them a yoke ofoxen. Some marry wives to possess obedient attendants, others with a view to pleasure and numerous offspring, and the wives prostitute themselves, unless chastity is enforced by compulsion.
No one wears a garland when sacrificing, or burning incense, or pouring out a libation. They do not stab, but strangle the victim, that nothing mutilated, but that which is entire, may be offered to the Deity.
A person convicted of bearing false testimony suffers a mutilation of his extremities. He who has maimed another not only undergoes in return the loss of the same limb, but his hand also is cut off. If he has caused a workman to lose his hand or his eye, he is put to death.
Megasthenes says, that none of theIndians employ slaves. But, according toOnesicritus, this is peculiar to the people in the territory ofMusicanus. He speaks of this as an excellent rule, and mentions many others to be found in that country, as the effects of a government by good laws.
§ 15.1.55 The care of the king's person is committed to women, who are also purchased of their parents. The body-guard, and the rest of the military, are stationed without the gates. A woman, who puts to death a king when drunk, is rewarded by becoming the wife of his successor. The sons succeed the father. The king may not sleep during the day-time, and at night he is obliged from time to time to change his bed, from dread of treachery.
The king leaves his palace in time of war; he leaves it also when he goes to sit in his court as a judge. He remains there all day thus occupied, not suffering himself to be interrupted even though the time arrives for attending to his person. This attention to his person consists of friction with pieces of wood, and he continues to listen to the cause, while the friction is performed by four attendants who surround him.
Another occasion of leaving his palace is to offer sacrifice.
The third is a sort of Bacchanalian departure to the chace. Crowds of women surround him, and on the outside (of these) are spear-men. The road is set off with ropes; a man, or even a woman, who passes within the ropes is put to death.
The king is preceded by drums and gongs. He hunts in the enclosures, and discharges his arrows from a high seat. Near him stand two or three armed women. When hunting in the open ground, he shoots his arrows from an elephant; of the women some are in chariots, some onhorses, and others on elephants; they are provided with all kinds of weapons, as if they were going on a military expedition.
§ 15.1.56 These customs when compared with ours are very strange, but the following are still more extraordinary. According toMegasthenes, the nations who inhabit theCaucasus have commerce with women in public; and eat the bodies of their relatives; the monkeys climb precipices, and roll down large stones upon their pursuers; most of the animals which are tame in our country are wild in theirs; thehorses have a single horn, with heads like those of deer; reeds which grow to the height of thirty orguiae, others which grow on the ground, fifty orguiae in length, and in thickness some are three and others six cubits in diameter.
§ 15.1.57 He then deviates into fables, and says that there are men of five, and even three spans in height, some of whom are without nostrils, with only two breathing orifices above the mouth. Those of three spans in height wage war with the cranes (described byHomer) and with the partridges, which are as large as geese; these people collect and destroy the eggs of the cranes which lay their eggs there; and nowhere else are the eggs or the young cranes to be found; frequently a crane escapes from this country with a brazen point of a weapon in its body, wounded by these people.
Similar to this is the account of theEnotocoitae, of the wild men, and of other monsters. The wild men could not be brought toSandrocottus, for they died by abstaining from food. Their heels are in front, the instep and toes are turned backwards. Some have been taken, which had no mouths, and were tame. They live near the sources of theGanges, and are supported by the smell of dressed meat and the fragrance of fruits and flowers, having instead of mouths orifices through which they breathe. They are distressed by strong-smelling substances, and therefore their lives are sustained with difficulty, particularly in a camp.
With respect to the other singular animals, the philosophers informed him of a people called Ocypodae, so swift of foot that they leavehorses behind them; ofEnotocoitae, or persons having ears hanging down to their feet, so that they lie and sleep upon them, and so strong as to be able to pluck up trees and to break the sinew string of a bow; of others (Monommati) who have only one eye, and the ears of adog, the eye placed in the middle of the forehead, the hair standing erect, and the breasts shaggy; of others (Amycteres) without nostrils, devouring everything, eaters of raw meat, short-lived, and dying before they arrive at old age; the upper part of their mouths projects far beyond the lower lip.
With respect to theHyperboreans, who live to the age of a thousand years, his description is the same as that ofSimonides,Pindar, and other mythological writers.
The story told byTimagenes of a shower of drops of brass, which were raked together, is a fable. The account ofMegasthenes is more probable, namely, that the rivers bring down gold-dust, a part of which is paid as a tax to the king; and this is the case inIberia (ofArmenia).
§ 15.1.58 Speaking of the philosophers, he says, that those who inhabit the mountains are worshippers ofBacchus, and show as a proof (of the god having come among them) the wild vine, which grows in their country only; the ivy, the laurel, the myrtle, the box-tree, and other evergreens, none of which are found beyond theEuphrates, except a few in parks, which are only preserved with great care. To wear robes and turbans, to use perfumes, and to be dressed in dyed and flowered garments, for their kings to be preceded when they leave their palaces, and appear abroad, by gongs and drums, are Bacchanalian customs. But the philosophers who live in the plains worshipHercules.
These are fabulous stories, contradicted by many writers, particularly what is said of the vine and wine, for a great part ofArmenia, the whole ofMesopotamia andMedia, as far asPersia andCarmania, is beyond theEuphrates, the greater part of which countries is said to have excellent vines, and to produce good wine.
§ 15.1.59 Megasthenes divides the philosophers again into two kinds, theBrachmanes and theGarmanes. TheBrachmanes are held in greater repute, for they agree more exactly in their opinions. Even from the time of their conception in the womb they are under the care and guardianship of learned men, who go to the mother, and seem to perform some incantation for the happiness and welfare of the mother and the unborn child, but in reality they suggest prudent advice, and the mothers who listen to them most willingly are thought to be the most fortunate in their offspring. After the birth of the children, there is a succession of persons who have the care of them, and as they advance in years, masters more able and accomplished succeed.
The philosophers live in a grove in front of the city within a moderate-sized enclosure. Their diet is frugal, and they lie upon straw pallets and on skins. They abstain from animal food, and from sexual intercourse with women; their time is occupied in grave discourse, and they communicate with those who are inclined to listen to them; but the hearer is not permitted to speak or cough, or even to spit on the ground; otherwise, he is expelled that very day from their society, on the ground of having no control over himself. After living thirty-seven years in this manner, each individual retires to his own possessions, and lives with less restraint, wearing robes of fine linen, and rings of gold, but without profuseness, upon the hands and in the ears. They eat the flesh of animals, of those particularly which do not assist man in his labour, and abstain from hot and seasoned food. They have as many wives as they please with a view to numerous offspring, for from many wives greater advantages are derived.
As they have no slaves, they require more the services, which are at hand, of their children.
TheBrachmanes do not communicate their philosophy to their wives, for fear they should divulge to the profane, if they became depraved, anything which ought to be concealed or lest they should abandon their husbands in case they became good (philosophers) themselves. For no one who despises alike pleasure and pain, life and death, is willing to be subject to the authority of another; and such is the character of a virtuous man and a virtuous woman.
They discourse much on death, for it is their opinion that the present life is the state of one conceived in the womb, and that death to philosophers is birth to a real and a happy life. They therefore discipline themselves much to prepare for death, and maintain that nothing which happens to man is bad or good, for otherwise the same things would not be the occasion of sorrow to some and of joy to others, opinions being merely dreams, nor that the same persons could be affected with sorrow and joy by the same things, on different occasions.
With regard to opinions on physical phenomena, they display, saysMegasthenes, great simplicity, their actions being better than their reasoning, for their belief is chiefly founded on fables. On many subjects their sentiments are the same as those of the Greeks. According to theBrachmanes, the world was created, and is liable to corruption; it is of a spheroidal figure; the god who made and governs it pervades the whole of it; the principles of all things are different, but the principle of the world's formation was water; in addition to the four elements there is a fifth nature, of which the heavens and the stars are composed; the earth is situated in the centre of the universe. Many other peculiar things they say of the principle of generation and of the soul. They invent fables also, after the manner ofPlato, on the immortality of the soul, and on the punishments inHades, and other things of this kind. This is the account whichMegasthenes gives of theBrachmanes.
§ 15.1.60 Of theGarmanes, the most honourable, he says, are theHylobii, who live in the forests, and subsist on leaves and wild fruits: they are clothed with garments made of the bark of trees, and abstain from commerce with women and from wine. The kings hold communication with them by messengers, concerning the causes of things, and through them worship and supplicate the Divinity.
Second in honour to theHylobii, are the physicians, for they apply philosophy to the study of the nature of man. They are of frugal habits, but do not live in the fields, and subsist upon rice and meal, which every one gives when asked, and receive them hospitably. They are able to cause persons to have a numerous offspring, and to have either male or female children, by means of charms. They cure diseases by diet, rather than by medicinal remedies. Among the latter, the most in repute are unguents and cataplasms. All others they suppose partake greatly of a noxious nature.
Both this and the other class of persons practise fortitude, as well in supporting active toil as in enduring suffering, so that they will continue a whole day in the same posture, without motion.
There are enchanters and diviners, versed in the rites and customs relative to the dead, who go about villages and towns begging. There are others who are more civilized and better informed than these, who inculcate the vulgar opinions concerningHades, which, according to their ideas, tend to piety and sanctity. Women study philosophy with some of them, but abstain from sexual intercourse.
§ 15.1.61 Aristobulus says, that he saw atTaxila two sophists (wise men), bothBrachmanes, the elder had his head shaved, but the younger wore his hair; both were attended by disciples. When not otherwise engaged, they spent their time in the market-place. They are honoured as public counsellors, and have the liberty of taking away, without payment, whatever article they like which is exposed for sale; when any one accosts them, he pours over them oil of jessamine, in such profusion that it runs down from their eyes. Of honey and sesamum, which is exposed for sale in large quantity, they take enough to make cakes, and are fed without expense.
They came up toAlexander's table and took their meal standing, and they gave an example of their fortitude by retiring to a neighbouring spot, where the elder, falling on the ground supine, endured the sun and the rain, which had now set in, it being the commencement of spring. The other stood on one leg, with a piece of wood three cubits in length raised in both hands; when one leg was fatigued he changed the support to the other, and thus continued the whole day. The younger appeared to possess much more self-command; for, after following the king a short distance, he soon returned to his home. The king sent after him, but he bade the king to come to him, if he wanted anything of him. The other accompanied the king to the last: during his stay he changed his dress, and altered his mode of life, and when reproached for his conduct, answered, that he had completed the forty years of discipline which he had promised to observe:Alexander made presents to his children.
§ 15.1.62 Aristobulus relates also some strange and unusual customs of the people ofTaxila. Those, who through poverty are unable to marry their daughters, expose them for sale in the market-place, in the flower of their age, to the sound of shell trumpets and drums, with which the war-note is given. A crowd is thus assembled. First her back, as far as the shoulders, is uncovered, then the parts in front, for the examination of any man who comes for this purpose. If she pleases him, he marries her on such conditions as may be determined upon.
The dead are thrown out to be devoured by vultures. To have many wives is a custom common to these and to other nations. He says, that he had heard, from some persons, of wives burning themselves voluntarily with their deceased husbands; and that those women who refused to submit to this custom were disgraced. The same things have been told by other writers.
§ 15.1.63 Onesicritus says, that he himself was sent to converse with these wise men. ForAlexander heard that they went about naked, practised constancy and fortitude, and were held in the highest honour; that, when invited, they did not go to other persons, but commanded others to come to them, if they wished to participate in their exercises or their conversation. Such being their character,Alexander did not consider it to be consistent with propriety to go to them, nor to compel them to do anything contrary to their inclination or against the custom of their country; he therefore despatchedOnesicritus to them.
Onesicritus found, at the distance of 20 stadia from the city, fifteen men standing in different postures, sitting or lying down naked, who continued in these positions until the evening, and then returned to the city. The most difficult thing to endure was the heat of the sun, which was so powerful, that no one else could endure without pain to walk on the ground at mid-day with bare feet.
§ 15.1.64 He conversed withCalanus, one of these sophists, who accompanied the king toPersia, and died after the custom of his country, being placed on a pile of [burning] wood. WhenOnesicritus came, he was lying upon stones.Onesicritus approached, accosted him, and told him that he had been sent by the king, who had heard the fame of his wisdom, and that he was to give an account of his interview, if there were no objection, he was ready to listen to his discourse. WhenCalanus saw his mantle, head-covering, and shoes, he laughed, and said, 'Formerly, there was abundance everywhere of corn and barley, as there is now of dust; fountains then flowed with water, milk, honey, wine, and oil, but mankind by repletion and luxury became proud and insolent.Jupiter, indignant at this state of things, destroyed all, and appointed for man a life of toil. On the reappearance of temperance and other virtues, there was again an abundance of good things. But at present the condition of mankind approaches satiety and insolence, and there is danger lest the things which now exist should disappear.'
When he had finished, he proposed toOnesicritus, if he wished to hear his discourse, to strip off his clothes, to lie down naked by him on the same stones, and in that manner to listen to him; while he was hesitating what to do,Mandanis, who was the oldest and wisest of the sophists, reproachedCalanus for his insolence, although he censured such insolence himself.Mandanis calledOnesicritus to him, and said, I commend the king, because, although he governs so large an empire, he is yet desirous of acquiring wisdom, for he is the only philosopher in arms that I ever saw; it would be of the greatest advantage, if those were philosophers who have the power of persuading the willing and of compelling the unwilling to learn temperance; but I am entitled to indulgence, if, when conversing by means of three interpreters, who, except the language, know no more than the vulgar, I am not able to demonstrate the utility of philosophy. To attempt it is to expect water to flow pure through mud.
§ 15.1.65 'The tendency of his discourse,' he said, 'was this, that the best philosophy was that which liberated the mind from pleasure and grief; that grief differed from labour, in that the former was inimical, the latter friendly to men; for that men exercised their bodies with labour in order to strengthen the mental powers, by which means they would be able to put an end to dissensions, and give good counsel to all, to the public and to individuals; that he certainly should at present adviseTaxiles to receiveAlexander as a friend; for if he entertained a person better than himself, he might be improved; but if a worse person, he might dispose him to good.'
After thisMandanis inquired, whether such doctrines were taught among the Greeks.Onesicritus answered, thatPythagoras taught a similar doctrine, and enjoined his disciples to abstain from whatever has life; thatSocrates andDiogenes, whose discourses he had heard, held the same opinions.Mandanis replied, 'that in other respects he thought them wise, but that in one thing they were mistaken, namely, in preferring custom to nature, for otherwise they would not be ashamed of going naked, like himself, and of subsisting on frugal fare; for the best house was that which required least repairs.' He says also that they employ themselves much on natural subjects, as prognostics, rain, drought, and diseases. When they repair to the city, they disperse themselves in the market-places; if they meet any one carrying figs or bunches of grapes, they take what is offered gratuitously; if it is oil, it is poured over them, and they are anointed with it. Every wealthy house, even to the women's apartment, is open to them; when they enter it, they engage in conversation, and partake of the repast. Disease of the body they regard as most disgraceful, and he who apprehends it, after preparing a pyre, destroys himself by fire; he (previously) anoints himself, and sitting down upon it orders it to be lighted, remaining motionless while he is burning.
§ 15.1.66 Nearchus gives the following account of the Sophists. TheBrachmanes engage in public affairs, and attend the kings as counsellors; the rest are occupied in the study of nature.Calanus belonged to the latter class. Women study philosophy with them, and all lead an austere life.
Of the customs of the otherIndians, he says, that their laws, whether relating to the community or to individuals, are not committed to writing, and differ altogether from those of other people. For example, it is the practice among some tribes, to propose virgins as prizes to the conquerors in a trial of skill in boxing; wherefore they marry without portions; among other tribes the ground is cultivated by families and in common; when the produce is collected, each takes a load sufficient for his subsistence during the year; the remainder is burnt, in order to have a reason for renewing their labour, and not remaining inactive. Their weapons consist of a bow and arrows, which are three cubits in length, or a javelin, and a shield, and a sword three cubits long. Instead of bridles, they use muzzles, which differ little from a halter, and the lips are perforated with spikes.
§ 15.1.67 Nearchus, producing proofs of their skill in works of art, says, that when they saw sponges in use among theMacedonians, they imitated them by sewing hairs, thin threads, and strings in wool; after the wool was felted, they drew out the hairs, threads, and strings, and dyed it with colours. There quickly appeared also manufactures of brushes for the body, and of vessels for oil (lecythi). They write, he says, letters upon cloth, smoothed by being well beaten, although other authors affirm that they have no knowledge of writing. They use brass, which is cast, and not wrought; he does not give the reason of this, although he mentions the strange effect, namely, if that vessels of this description fall to the ground, they break like those made of clay.
This following custom also is mentioned in accounts ofIndia, that, instead of prostrating themselves before their kings, it is usual to address them, and all persons in authority and high station, with a prayer.
The country produces precious stones, as crystal, carbuncles of all kinds, and pearls.
§ 15.1.68 As an instance of the disagreement among historians, we may adduce their (different) accounts ofCalanus. They all agree that he accompaniedAlexander, and underwent a voluntary death by fire in his presence, but they differ as to the manner and cause of his death. Some give the following account.Calanus accompanied the king, as the rehearser of his praises, beyond the boundaries ofIndia, contrary to the commonIndian custom; for the philosophers attend upon their kings, and act as instructors in the worship of the gods, in the same manner as theMagi attend thePersian kings. When he fell sick atPasargadae, being then attacked with disease for the first time in his life, he put himself to death at the age of seventy-three years, regardless of the entreaties of the king. A pyre was raised, and a golden couch placed upon it. He laid down upon it, and covering himself up, was burnt to death.
Others say, that a chamber was constructed of wood, which was filled with the leaves of trees, and a pyre being raised upon the roof, he was shut up in it, according to his directions, after the procession, with which he had been accompanied, had arrived at the spot. He threw himself upon the pyre, and was consumed like a log of wood, together with the chamber.
Megasthenes says, that self-destruction is not a dogma of the philosophers, and that those who commit this act are accounted fool-hardy; that some, who are by nature harsh, inflict wounds upon their bodies, or cast themselves down precipices; those who are impatient of pain drown themselves; those who can endure pain strangle themselves; and those of ardent tempers throw themselves into the fire. Of this last description wasCalanus, who had no control over himself, and was a slave to the table ofAlexander.Calanus is censured, whileMandanis is applauded. WhenAlexander's messengers invited the latter to come to the son ofJove, promising a reward if he would comply, and threatening punishment if he refused, he answered, 'Alexander was not the son ofJove, for he did not govern even the smallest portion of the earth; nor did he himself desire a gift of one who was satisfied with nothing. Neither did he fear his threats, for as long as he livedIndia would supply him with food enough; and when he died, he should be delivered from the flesh wasted by old age, and be translated to a better and purer state of existence.'Alexander commended and pardoned him.
§ 15.1.69 Historians also relate that theIndians worshipJupiter Ombrius (or, the Rainy), the riverGanges, and the indigenous deities of the country; that when the king washes his hair, a great feast is celebrated, and large presents are sent, each person displaying his wealth in competition with his neighbour.
They say, that some of the gold-digging myrmeces (ants) have wings; and that the rivers, like those ofIberia, bring down gold-dust.
In processions at their festivals, many elephants are in the train, adorned with gold and silver, numerous carriages drawn by fourhorses and by several pairs ofoxen; then follows a body of attendants in full dress, (bearing) vessels of gold, large basins and goblets, an orguia in breadth, tables, chairs of state, drinking-cups, and lavers ofIndian copper, most of which were set with precious stones, as emeralds, beryls, andIndian carbuncles; garments embroidered and interwoven with gold; wild beasts, as buffaloes, panthers, tamelions, and a multitude of birds of variegated plumage and of fine song.
Cleitarchus speaks of four-wheeled carriages bearing trees with large leaves, from which were suspended (in cages) different kinds of tame birds, among which the orion was said to possess the sweetest note, but the catreus was the most beautiful in appearance, and had the most variegated plumage. In shape it approached nearest to thepeacock, but the rest of the description must be taken fromCleitarchus.
§ 15.1.70 Opposed to theBrachmanes there are philosophers, calledPramnae, contentious people, and fond of argument. They ridicule theBrachmanes as boasters and fools for occupying themselves with physiology and astronomy. Some of thePramnae are calledPramnae of the mountains, others Gymnetae, others again are called Townsmen and Countrymen. ThePramnae of the mountains wear deer-skins, and carry scrips filled with roots and drugs; they profess to practise medicine by means of incantations, charms, and amulets.
TheGymnetae, as their name imports, are naked and live chiefly in the open air, practising fortitude for the space of thirty-seven years; this I have before mentioned; women live in their society, but without cohabitation. TheGymnetae are held in singular estimation.
§ 15.1.71 The (Pramnae) Townsmen are occupied in civil affairs, dwell in cities, and wear fine linen, or (as Countrymen they live) in the fields, clothed in the skins of fawns or antelopes. In short, theIndians wear white garments, white linen and muslin, contrary to the accounts of those who say that they wear garments of a bright colour; all of them wear long hair and long beards, plait their hair, and bind it with a fillet.
§ 15.1.72 Artemidorus says that theGanges descends from theEmoda mountains and proceeds towards the south; when it arrives at the cityGanges, it turns to the east, and keeps this direction as far asPalibothra, and the mouth by which it discharges itself into the sea. He calls one of the rivers which flow into it Oedanes, which breeds crocodiles anddolphins. Some other circumstances besides are mentioned by him, but in so confused and negligent a manner that they are not to be regarded. To these accounts may be added that ofNicolaus Damascenus.
§ 15.1.73 This writer states that atAntioch, nearDaphne, he met with ambassadors from theIndians, who were sent toAugustus Caesar. It appeared from the letter that several persons were mentioned in it, but three only survived, whom he says he saw. The rest had died chiefly in consequence of the length of the journey. The letter was written in Greek upon a skin; the import of it was, thatPorus was the writer, that although he was sovereign of six hundred kings, yet that he highly esteemed the friendship ofCaesar; that he was willing to allow him a passage through his country, in whatever part he pleased, and to assist him in any undertaking that was just.
Eight naked servants, with girdles round their waists, and fragrant with perfumes, presented the gifts which were brought. The presents were aHermes (i. e. a man) born without arms, whom I have seen, largesnakes, aserpent ten cubits in length, a river tortoise of three cubits in length, and a partridge (?) larger than a vulture. They were accompanied by the person, it is said, who burnt himself to death atAthens. This is the practice with persons in distress, who seek escape from existing calamities, and with others in prosperous circumstances, as was the case with this man. For as everything hitherto had succeeded with him, he thought it necessary to depart, lest some unexpected calamity should happen to him by continuing to live; with a smile, therefore, naked, anointed, and with the girdle round his waist, he leaped upon the pyre. On his tomb was this inscription: "Zarmanochegas, an Indian, a native ofBargosa, having immortalized himself according to the custom of his country, here lies."
§ 15.2.1 ARIANA
NEXT toIndia isAriana, the first portion of the country subject to thePersians, lying beyond theIndus, and the first of the higher satrapies without theTaurus. On the north it is bounded by the same mountains asIndia, on the south by the same sea, and by the same riverIndus, which separates it fromIndia. It stretches thence towards the west as far as the line drawn from theCaspian Gates toCarmania, whence its figure is quadrilateral.
The southern side begins from the mouths of theIndus, and fromPatalene, and terminates atCarmania and the mouth of thePersian Gulf, by a promontory projecting a considerable distance to the south. It then makes a bend towards the gulf in the direction ofPersia.
TheArbies, who have the same name as the riverArbis, are the first inhabitants we meet with in this country. They are separated by theArbis from the next tribe, theOritae, and according toNearchus, occupy a tract of sea-coast of about 1000 stadia in length; this country also is a part ofIndia. Next are theOritae, a people governed by their own laws. The voyage along the coast belonging to this people extends 1800 stadia, that along the country of theIchthyophagi, who follow next, extends 7400 stadia; that along the country of theCarmani as far asPersia, 3700 stadia. The whole number of stadia is 13000.
§ 15.2.2 The greater part of the country inhabited by theIchthyophagi is on a level with the sea. No trees, except palms and a kind of thorn, and the tamarisk, grow there. There is also a scarcity of water, and of food produced by cultivation. Both they and theircattle subsist upon fish, and are supplied by rain water and wells. The flesh of the animals has the smell of fish. Their dwellings are built with the bones of large whales and shells, the ribs furnishing beams and supports, and the jaw-bones, door-ways. The vertebral bones serve as mortars in which fish, which have been previously dried in the sun, are pounded. Of this, with the addition of flour, cakes are made; for they have grinding mills (for corn), although they have no iron. This however is not so surprising, because it is possible for them to import it from other parts. But how do they hollow out the mills again, when worn away? with the same stones, they say, with which their arrows and javelins, which are hardened in the fire, are sharpened. Some fish are dressed in ovens, but the greater part is eaten raw. The fish are taken in nets made of the bark of the palm.
§ 15.2.3 Above theIchthyophagi is situatedGedrosia, a country less exposed to the heat of the sun thanIndia, but more so than the rest ofAsia. As it is without fruits and water, except in summer, it is not much better than the country of theIchthyophagi. But it produces aromatics, particularly nard and myrrh, in such quantity, that the army ofAlexander used them on the march for tent coverings and beds; they thus breathed an air full of odours, and at the same time more salubrious.
The summer was purposely chosen for leavingIndia, for at that season it rains inGedrosia, and the rivers and wells are filled, but in winter they fail. The rain falls in the higher parts to the north, and near the mountains: when the rivers swell, the plains near the sea are watered, and the wells are also filled.Alexander sent persons before him into the desert country to dig wells and to prepare stations for himself and his fleet.
§ 15.2.4 Having separated his forces into three divisions, he set out with one division throughGedrosia, keeping at the utmost from the sea not more than 500 stadia, in order to secure the coast for his fleet; but he frequently approached the sea-side, although the beach was impracticable and rugged. The second division he sent forward under the command ofCraterus through the interior, with a view of reducingAriana, and of proceeding to the same places to which he himself was directing his march. (The third division), the fleet he intrusted toNearchus andOnesicritus, his master pilot, giving them orders to take up convenient positions in following him, and to sail along the coast parallel to his line of march.
§ 15.2.5 Nearchus says, that whileAlexander was on his march, he himself commenced his voyage, in the autumn, about the achronical rising of thePleiades, the wind not being before favourable. The Barbarians however, taking courage at the departure of the king, became daring, and attempted to throw off their subjection, attacked them, and endeavoured to drive them out of the country. ButCraterus set out from theHydaspes, and proceeded through the country of theArachoti and of theDrangae intoCarmania.
Alexander was greatly distressed throughout the whole march, as his road lay through a barren country. The supplies of provisions which he obtained came from a distance, and were scanty and unfrequent, so much so that the army suffered greatly from hunger, the beasts of burden dropped down, and the baggage was abandoned, both on the march and in the camp. The army was saved by eating dates and the marrow of the palm-tree.
Alexander however (saysNearchus), although acquainted with the hardships of the enterprise, was ambitious of conducting this large army in safety, as a conqueror, through the same country where, according to the prevailing report,Semiramis escaped by flight fromIndia with about twenty, andCyrus with about seven men.
§ 15.2.6 Besides the want of provisions, the scorching heat was distressing, as also the deep and burning sand. In some places there were sand-hills, so that in addition to the difficulty of lifting the legs, as out of a pit, there were ascents and descents. It was necessary also, on account of the watering places, to make long marches of two, four, and sometimes even of six hundred stadia, for the most part during the night. Frequently the encampment was at a distance of 30 stadia from the watering places, in order that the soldiers might not be induced by thirst to drink to excess. For many of them plunged into the water in their armour, and continued drinking until they were drowned; when swollen after death they floated, and corrupted the shallow water of the cisterns. Others, exhausted by thirst, lay exposed to the sun, in the middle of the road. They then became tremulous, their hands and their feet shook, and they died like persons seized with cold and shivering. Some turned out of the road to indulge in sleep, overcome with drowsiness and fatigue; some were left behind, and perished, being ignorant of the road, destitute of everything, and overpowered by heat. Others escaped after great sufferings. A torrent of water, which fell in the night time, overwhelmed and destroyed many persons, and much baggage; a great part even of the royal equipage was swept away.
The guides, through ignorance, deviated so far into the interior, that the sea was no longer in sight. The king, perceiving the danger, immediately set out in search of the coast; when he had discovered it, and by sinking wells had found water fit for drinking, he sent for the army: afterwards he continued his march for seven days near the shore, with a good supply of water. He then again returned into the interior.
§ 15.2.7 There was a plant resembling the laurel, which if eaten by the beasts of burden caused them to die of epilepsy, accompanied with foaming at the mouth. A thorn also, the fruit of which, like gourds, strewed the ground, and was full of a juice; if drops of it fell into the eyes of any kind of animal it became completely blind. Many persons were suffocated by eating unripe dates. Danger also was to be apprehended fromserpents; for on the sand-hills there grew a plant, underneath which they crept and hid themselves. The persons wounded by them died.
TheOritae, it was said, smeared the points of their arrows, which were of wood hardened in the fire, with deadly poisons. WhenPtolemy was wounded and in danger of his life a person appeared in a dream toAlexander, and showed him a root with leaves and branches, which he told him to bruise and place upon the wound.Alexander awoke from his dream, and remembering the vision, searched and found the root growing in abundance, of which both he and others made use; when the Barbarians perceived that the antidote for the poison was discovered, they surrendered to the king. It is probable, however, that some one acquainted with the plant informed the king of its virtues, and that the fabulous part of the story was invented for the purpose of flattery.
Having arrived at the palace of theGedrosii on the sixtieth day after leaving theOri, and allowed his army a short period of rest, he set out forCarmania.
§ 15.2.8 The position of the southern side ofAriana is thus situated, with reference to the sea-coast, the country of theGedrosii and theOritae lying near and above it. A great part ofGedrosia extends into the interior until it touches upon theDrangae, Arachoti, andParopamisadae, of whomEratosthenes speaks in the following manner: we cannot give a better description. 'Ariana,' he says, "is bounded on the east by theIndus, on the south by the Great Sea, on the north by theParopamisus and the succeeding chain of mountains as far as theCaspian Gates, on the west by the same limits by which the territory of theParthians is separated fromMedia, andCarmania fromParaetacene andPersia.
The breadth of the country is the length of theIndus, reckoned from theParopamisus as far as the mouths of that river, and amounts to 12, or according to others to 13, stadia. The length, beginning from theCaspian Gates, as it is laid down in Asiatic Stathmi, is estimated in two different ways. From theCaspian Gates toAlexandreia among theArii throughParthia is one and the same road. Then a road leads in a straight line throughBactriana, and over the pass of the mountain toOrtospana, to the meeting of the three roads fromBactra, which is among theParopamisadae. The other branch turns off a little fromAria towards the south toProphthasia in Drangiana; then the remainder leads as far as the confines ofIndia and of theIndus; so that the road through theDrangae and theArachoti is longer, the whole amounting to 15,000 stadia. But if we deduct 1300 stadia, we shall have the remainder as the length of the country in a straight line, namely, 14,000 stadia; for the length of the coast is not much less, although some persons increase this sum by adding to the 10,000 stadiaCarmania, which is reckoned at 6000 stadia. For they seem to reckon it either together with the gulfs, or together with theCarmanian coast within thePersian Gulf. The name also ofAriana is extended so as to include some part ofPersia,Media, and the north ofBactria andSogdiana; for these nations speak nearly the same language.
§ 15.2.9 The order in which these nations are disposed is as follows. Along theIndus are theParopamisadae, above whom lies the mountainParopamisus; then towards the south are theArachoti; then next to these towards the south, theGedroseni, together with other tribes who occupy the sea-coast; theIndus runs parallel along the breadth of these tracts. TheIndians occupy [in part] some of the countries situated along theIndus, which formerly belonged to thePersians:Alexander deprived theAriani of them, and established there settlements of his own. ButSeleucus Nicator gave them toSandrocottus in consequence of a marriage contract, and received in return five hundred elephants.
TheArii are situated on the west, by the side of theParopamisadae, and theDrangae by theArachoti andGedrosii. TheArii are situated by the side of theDrangae both on the north and west, and nearly encompass them.Bactriana adjoinsAria on the north, and theParopamisadae, through whose territoryAlexander passed when he crossed theCaucasus on his way toBactra. Towards the west, next to theArii, are theParthians, and the parts about theCaspian Gates. Towards the south ofParthia is the desert ofCarmania; then follows the remainder ofCarmania andGedrosia.
§ 15.2.10 We shall better understand the position of the places about the above-mentioned mountainous tract, if we further examine the route whichAlexander took from theParthian territory toBactriana, when he was in pursuit ofBessus. He came first toAriana, next to theDrangae, where he put to deathPhilotas, the son ofParmenio, having detected his traitorous intentions. He despatched persons toEcbatana also to put the father to death as an accomplice in the conspiracy. It is said that these persons performed in eleven days, upon dromedaries, a journey of 30 or 40 days, and executed their business.
TheDrangae resemble thePersians in all other respects in their mode of life, except that they have little wine. Tin is found in the country.
Alexander next went from theDrangae to theEuergetae, (to whomCyrus gave this name,) and to theArachoti; then through the territory of theParopamisadae at the setting of thePleiad. It is a mountainous country, and at that time was covered with snow, so that the march was performed with difficulty. The numerous villages, however, on their march, which were well provided with everything except oil, afforded relief in their distress. On their left hand were the summits of the mountains.
The southern parts of theParopamisus belong toIndia andAriana; the northern parts towards the west belong toBactriana [towards the east toSogdiana * *132Bactrian barbarians]. Having wintered there, withIndia above to the right hand, and having founded a city, he crossed the summits of the mountains intoBactriana. The road was bare of everything except a few trees of the bushy terminthus; the army was driven from want of food to eat the flesh of the beasts or burthen, and that in a raw state for want of firewood; but silphium grew in great abundance, which promoted the digestion of this raw food. Fifteen days after founding the city and leaving winter quarters, he came to Adrapsa (Darapsa?), a city ofBactriana.
§ 15.2.11 Chaarene is situated somewhere about this part of the country bordering uponIndia. This, of all the places subject to theParthians, lies nearest toIndia. It is distant 10,000 or 9000 stadia fromBactriana, through the country of theArachoti, and the above-mentioned mountainous tract.Craterus traversed this country, subjugating those who refused to submit, and hastened with the greatest expedition to form a junction with the king. Nearly about the same time both armies, consisting of infantry, enteredCarmania together, and at a short interval afterwardsNearchus sailed with his fleet into thePersian Gulf, having undergone great danger and distress from wandering in his course, and among other causes, from great whales.
§ 15.2.12 It is probable that those who sailed in the expedition greatly exaggerated many circumstances; yet their statements prove the sufferings to which they were exposed, and that their apprehensions were greater than the real danger. That which alarmed them the most was the magnitude of the whales, which occasioned great commotion in the sea from their numbers; their blowing was attended with so great a darkness, that the sailors could not see where they stood. But when the pilots informed the sailors, who were terrified at the sight and ignorant of the cause, that they were animals which might easily be driven away by the sound of a trumpet, and by loud noises,Nearchus impelled the vessels with violence in the direction of the impediment, and at the same time frightened the animals with the sound of trumpets. The whales dived, and again rose at the prow of the vessels, so as to give the appearance of a naval combat; but they soon made off.
§ 15.2.13 Those who now sail toIndia speak of the size of these animals and their mode of appearance, but as coming neither in bodies nor frequently, yet as repulsed by shouts and by the sound of trumpets. They affirm that they do not approach the land, but that the bones of those which die, bared of flesh, are readily thrown up by the waves, and supply theIchthyophagi with the above-mentioned material for the construction of their cabins. According toNearchus, the size of these animals is three and twenty orguiae in length.
Nearchus says that he proved the confident belief of the sailors in the existence of an island situated in the passage, and destructive to those who anchored near it, to be false.
A bark in its course, when it came opposite to this island, was never afterwards seen, and some men who were sent in search did not venture to disembark upon the island, but shouted and called to the crew, when, receiving no answer, they returned. But as all imputed this disappearance to the island,Nearchus said that he himself sailed to it, went ashore, disembarked with a part of his crew, and went round it. But not discovering any trace of those of whom he was in search, he abandoned the attempt, and informed his men that no fault was to be imputed to the island (for otherwise destruction would have come upon himself and those who disembarked with him), but that some other cause (and innumerable others were possible) might have occasioned the loss of the vessel.
§ 15.2.14 Carmania is the last portion of the sea-coast which begins from theIndus. Its first promontory projects towards the south into the Great Sea. After it has formed the mouth of thePersian Gulf towards the promontory, which is in sight, ofArabia Felix, it bends towards thePersian Gulf, and is continued till it touchesPersia.
Carmania is large, situated in the interior, and extending itself betweenGedrosia andPersia, but stretches more to the north thanGedrosia. This is indicated by its fertility, for it not only produces everything, but the trees are of a large size, excepting however the olive; it is also watered by rivers.Gedrosia also differs little from the country of theIchthyophagi, so that frequently there is no produce from the ground. They therefore keep the annual produce in store for several years.
Onesicritus says, that a river inCarmania brings down gold-dust; that there are mines of silver, copper, and minium; and that there are two mountains, one of which contains arsenic, the other salt.
There belongs to it a desert tract, which is contiguous toParthia andParaetacene. The produce of the ground is like that ofPersia; and among other productions the vine. TheCarmanian vine, as we call it, often bears bunches of grapes of two cubits in size; the seeds are very numerous and very large; probably the plant grows in its native soil with great luxuriance.
Asses, on account of the scarcity ofhorses, are generally made use of even in war. They sacrifice anass toMars, who is the only deity worshipped by them, for they are a warlike people. No one marries before he has cut off the head of an enemy and presented it to the king, who deposits the scull in the royal treasury. The tongue is minced and mixed with flour, which the king, after tasting it, gives to the person who brought it, to be eaten by himself and his family. That king is the most highly respected, to whom the greatest number of heads are presented.
According toNearchus, most of the customs and the language of the inhabitants ofCarmania resemble those of thePersians andMedes.
The passage across the mouth of thePersian Gulf does not occupy more than one day.
§ 15.3.1 NEXT toCarmania isPersis. A great part of it extends along the coast of the Gulf, which has its name from the country, but a much larger portion stretches into the interior, and particularly in its length, reckoned from the south, andCarmania to the north, and to the nations ofMedia.
It is of a threefold character, as we regard its natural condition and the quality of the air. First, the coast, extending for about 4400 or 4300 stadia, is burnt up with heat; it is sandy, producing little except palm trees, and terminates at the greatest river in those parts, the name of which isOroatis. Secondly, the country above the coast produces everything, and is a plain; it is excellently adapted for the rearing ofcattle, and abounds with rivers and lakes.
The third portion lies towards the north, and is bleak and mountainous. On its borders live thecamel-breeders.
Its length, according toEratosthenes, towards the north andMedia, is about 8000, or, including some projecting promontories, 9000 stadia; the remainder (fromMedia) to theCaspian Gates is not more than 3000 stadia. The breadth in the interior of the country fromSusa toPersepolis is 4200 stadia, and thence to the borders ofCarmania 1600 stadia more.
The tribes inhabiting this country are those called the Pateischoreis, theAchaemenidae, andMagi; these last affect a sedate mode of life; theCurtii and Mardi are robbers, the rest are husbandmen.
§ 15.3.2 Susis also is almost a part ofPersis. It lies betweenPersis andBabylonia, and has a very considerable city,Susa. For thePersians andCyrus, after the conquest of theMedes, perceiving that their own country was situated towards the extremities, butSusis more towards the interior, nearer also toBabylon and the other nations, there placed the royal seat of the empire. They were pleased with its situation on the confines ofPersis, and with the importance of the city; besides the consideration that it had never of itself undertaken any great enterprise, had always been in subjection to other people, and constituted a part of a greater body, except, perhaps, anciently in the heroic times.
It is said to have been founded byTithonus, the father ofMemnon. Its compass was 120 stadia. Its shape was oblong. The acropolis was calledMemnonium. The Susians have the name also ofCissii.Aeschylus calls the mother ofMemnon,Cissia.Memnon is said to be buried nearPaltus inSyria, by the river Badas, asSimonides says in hisMemnon, a dithyrambic poem among theDeliaca. The wall of the city, the temples and palaces, were constructed in the same manner as those of theBabylonians, of baked brick and asphaltus, as some writers relate.Polycletus however says, that its circumference was 200 stadia, and that it was without walls.
§ 15.3.3 They embellished the palace atSusa more than the rest, but they did not hold in less veneration and honour the palaces atPersepolis andPasargadae. For in these stronger and hereditary places were the treasure-house, the riches, and tombs of thePersians. There was another palace at Gabae, in the upper parts ofPersia, and another on the sea-coast, near a place called Taoce.
This was the state of things during the empire of thePersians. But afterwards different princes occupied different palaces; some, as was natural, less sumptuous, after the power ofPersis had been reduced first by theMacedonians, and secondly still more by theParthians. For although thePersians have still a kingly government, and a king of their own, yet their power is very much diminished, and they are subject to the king ofParthia.
§ 15.3.4 Susa is situated in the interior, upon the riverChoaspes, beyond the bridge; but the territory extends to the sea: and the sea-coast of this territory, from the borders of thePersian coast nearly as far as the mouths of theTigris, is a distance of about 3000 stadia.
TheChoaspes flows throughSusis, terminating on the same coast, and has its source in the territory of theUxii. For a rugged and precipitous range of mountains lies between the Susians andPersis, with narrow defiles, difficult to pass; they were inhabited by robbers, who constantly exacted payment even from the kings themselves, at their entrance intoPersis fromSusis.
Polycletus says, that theChoaspes, and theEulaeus, and theTigris also enter a lake, and thence discharge themselves into the sea; that on the side of the lake is a mart, as the rivers do not receive the merchandise from the sea, nor convey it down to the sea, on account of dams in the river, purposely constructed, and that the goods are transported by land a distance of 800 stadia toSusa; according to others, the rivers which flow throughSusis discharge themselves by the intermediate canals of theEuphrates into the single stream of theTigris, which on this account has at its mouth the name ofPasitigris.
§ 15.3.5 According toNearchus, the sea-coast ofSusis is swampy, and terminates at the riverEuphrates; at its mouth is a village, which receives the merchandise fromArabia; for the coast ofArabia approaches close to the mouths of theEuphrates and thePasitigris; the whole intermediate space is occupied by a lake which receives theTigris; on sailing up thePasitigris 150 stadia is the bridge of rafts leading toSusa fromPersis, and is distant fromSusa 60 (600?) stadia; thePasitigris is distant from theOroatis about 2000 stadia; the ascent through the lake to the mouth of theTigris is 600 (6000?) stadia; near the mouth stands the Susian village (Aginis), distant fromSusa 500 stadia; the journey by water from the mouth of theEuphrates, up toBabylon, through a well-inhabited tract of country, is a distance of more than 3000 stadia.
Onesicritus says that all the rivers discharge themselves into the lake, both theEuphrates and theTigris; and that theEuphrates, again issuing from the lake, discharges itself into the sea by a separate mouth.
§ 15.3.6 There are many other narrow defiles in passing out through the territory of theUxii, and enteringPersis. TheseAlexander forced in his march through the country at thePersian Gates, and at other places, when he was hastening to see the principal parts ofPersis, and the treasure-holds, in which wealth had been accumulated during the long period thatAsia was tributary toPersis.
He crossed many rivers, which flow through the country and discharge themselves into thePersian Gulf.
Next to theChoaspes are the Copratas and thePasitigris, which has its source in the country of theUxii. There is also the riverCyrus, which flows through CoelePersis, as it is called, nearPasargadae. The king changed his name, which was formerly Agradatus, to that of this river.Alexander crossed theAraxes close toPersepolis.Persepolis was distinguished for the magnificence of the treasures which it contained. TheAraxes flows out of theParaetacene, and receives theMedus, which has its source inMedia. These rivers run through a very fruitful valley, which, likePersepolis, lies close toCarmania and to the eastern parts of the country.Alexander burnt the palace atPersepolis, to avenge the Greeks, whose temples and cities thePersians had destroyed by fire and sword.
§ 15.3.7 He next came toPasargadae, which also was an ancient royal residence. Here he saw in a park the tomb ofCyrus. It was a small tower, concealed within a thick plantation of trees, solid below, but above consisting of one story and a shrine which had a very narrow opening;Aristobulus says, he entered through this opening, by order ofAlexander, and decorated the tomb. He saw there a golden couch, a table with cups, a golden coffin, and a large quantity of garments and dresses ornamented with precious stones. These objects he saw at his first visit, but on a subsequent visit the place had been robbed, and everything had been removed except the couch and the coffin which were only broken. The dead body had been removed from its place; whence it was evident that it was the act not of the Satrap, but of robbers, who had left behind what they could not easily carry off. And this occurred although there was a guard ofMagi stationed about the place, who received for their daily subsistence asheep, and every month ahorse. The remote distance to which the army ofAlexander had advanced, toBactra andIndia, gave occasion to the introduction of many disorderly acts, and to this among others.
Such is the account ofAristobulus, who records the following inscription on the tomb. "O MAN, I AM CYRUS, I ESTABLISHED THE PERSIAN EMPIRE AND WAS KING OF ASIA. GRUDGE ME NOT THEREFORE THIS MONUMENT.
Onesicritus however says that the tower had ten stories, thatCyrus lay in the uppermost, and that there was an inscription in Greek, cut inPersian letters, 'I CYRUS, KING OF KINGS, LIE HERE.' And another inscription to the same effect in thePersian language.
§ 15.3.8 Onesicritus mentions also this inscription on the tomb ofDarius: "I WAS A FRIEND TO MY FRIENDS, I WAS THE FIRST OF HORSEMEN AND ARCHERS, I EXCELLED AS HUNTER, I COULD DO EVERYTHING.
Aristus ofSalamis, a writer of a much later age than these, says, that the tower consisted of two stories, and was large; that it was built at the time thePersians succeeded to the kingdom (of theMedes); that the tomb was preserved; that the above-mentioned inscription was in the Greek, and that there was another to the same purport in thePersian language.
Cyrus held in honourPasargadae, because he there conquered, in his last battle,Astyages the Mede, and transferred to himself the empire ofAsia; he raised it to the rank of a city, and built a palace in memory of his victory.
§ 15.3.9 Alexander transferred everything that was precious inPersis toSusa, which was itself full of treasures and costly materials; he did not, however, consider this place, butBabylon, as the royal residence, and intended to embellish it. There too his treasure was deposited.
They say that, besides the treasures inBabylon and in the camp ofAlexander, which were not included in the sum, the treasure found atSusa and inPersis was reckoned to amount to 40,000, and according to some writers to 50,000, talents. But others say, that the whole treasure, collected from all quarters, and transported toEcbatana, amounted to 180,000 talents, and that the 8,000 talents whichDarius carried away with him in his flight fromMedia became the booty of those who put him to death.
§ 15.3.10 Alexander preferredBabylon, because he saw that it far surpassed the other cities in magnitude, and had other advantages. AlthoughSusis is fertile, it has a glowing and scorching atmosphere, particularly near the city, as he (Aristobulus?) says. Lizards andserpents at mid-day in the summer, when the sun is at its greatest height, cannot cross the streets of the city quick enough to prevent their being burnt to death mid-way by the heat. This happens nowhere inPersis, although it lies more towards the south.
Cold water for baths is suddenly heated by exposure to the sun. Barley spread out in the sun is roasted like barley prepared in ovens. For this reason earth is laid to the depth of two cubits upon the roofs of the houses. They are obliged to construct their houses narrow, on account of the weight placed upon them, and from want of long beams, but, as large dwellings are required to obviate the suffocating heat the houses are long.
The beam made of the palm tree has a peculiar property, for although it retains its solidity, it does not as it grows old give way downwards, but curves upwards with the weight, and is a better support to the roof.
The cause of the scorching heat is said to be high, overhanging mountains on the north, which intercept the northern winds. These, blowing from the tops of the mountains at a great height, fly over without touching the plains, to the more southern parts ofSusis. There the air is still, particularly when theEtesian winds cool the other parts of the country which are burnt up by heat.
§ 15.3.11 Susis is so fertile in grain, that barley and wheat produce, generally, one hundred, and sometimes two hundred fold. Hence the furrows are not ploughed close together, for the roots when crowded impede the sprouting of the plant.
The vine did not grow there before theMacedonians planted it, both there and atBabylon. They do not dig trenches, but thrust down into the ground iron-headed stakes, which when drawn out are immediately replaced by the plants.
Such is the character of the inland parts. The sea-coast is marshy and without harbours; henceNearchus says, that he met with no native guides, when coasting with his fleet fromIndia toBabylonia, for nowhere could his vessels put in, nor was he able to procure persons who could direct him by their knowledge and experience.
§ 15.3.12 The part ofBabylonia formerly calledSitacene, and afterwardsApolloniatis, is situated nearSusis.
Above both, on the north and towards the east, are theElymaei and theParaetaceni, predatory people relying for security on their situation in a rugged and mountainous country. TheParaetaceni lie more immediately above theApolloniatae, and therefore annoy them the more. TheElymaei are at war with this people and with the Susians, and theUxii with theElymaei, but not so constantly at present as might be expected, on account of the power of theParthians, to whom all the inhabitants of those regions are under subjection. When therefore theParthians are quiet, all are tranquil, and their subject nations. But when, as frequently happens, there is an insurrection, which has occurred even in our own times, the event is not the same to all, but different to different people. For the disturbance has benefited some, but disappointed the expectation of others.
Such is the nature of the countries ofPersis andSusiana.
§ 15.3.13 The manners and customs of thePersians are the same as those of the Susians and theMedes, and many other people; and they have been described by several writers, yet I must mention what is suitable to my purpose.
ThePersians do not erect statues nor altars, but, considering the heaven asJupiter, sacrifice on a high place. They worship the sun also, whom they callMithras, the moon,Venus, fire, earth, winds, and water. They sacrifice, having offered up prayers, in a place free from impurities, and present the victim crowned.
After theMagus, who directs the sacrifice, has divided the flesh, each goes away with his share, without setting apart any portion to the gods; for the god, they say, requires the soul of the victim, and nothing more. Nevertheless, according to some writers, they lay a small piece of the caul upon the fire.
§ 15.3.14 But it is to fire and water especially that they offer sacrifice. They throw upon the fire dry wood without the bark, and place fat over it; they then pour oil upon it, and light it below; they do not blow the flame with their breath, but fan it; those who have blown the flame with their breath, or thrown any dead thing or dirt upon the fire, are put to death.
They sacrifice to water by going to a lake, river, or fountain; having dug a pit, they slaughter the victim over it, taking care that none of the pure water near be sprinkled with blood, and thus be polluted. They then lay the flesh in order upon myrtle or laurel branches; theMagi touch it with slender twigs, and make incantations, pouring oil mixed with milk and honey, not into the fire, nor into the water, but upon the earth. They continue their incantations for a long time, holding in the hands a bundle of slender myrtle rods.
§ 15.3.15 InCappadocia (for in this country there is a great body ofMagi, called Pyraethi, and there are many temples dedicated to thePersian deities) the sacrifice is not performed with a knife, but the victim is beaten to death with a log of wood, as with a mallet.
ThePersians have also certain large shrines, called Pyraetheia. In the middle of these is an altar, on which is a great quantity of ashes, where theMagi maintain an unextinguished fire. They enter daily, and continue their incantation for nearly an hour, holding before the fire a bundle of rods, and wear round their heads high turbans of felt, reaching down on each side so as to cover the lips and the sides of the cheeks. The same customs are observed in the temples ofAnaitis and ofOmanus. Belonging to these temples are shrines, and a wooden statue ofOmanus is carried in procession. These we have seen ourselves. Other usages, and such as follow, are related by historians.
§ 15.3.16 ThePersians never pollute a river with urine, nor wash nor bathe in it; they never throw a dead body, nor anything unclean, into it. To whatever god they intend to sacrifice, they first address a prayer to fire.
§ 15.3.17 They are governed by hereditary kings. Disobedience is punished by the head and arms being cut off, and the body cast forth. They marry many women, and maintain at the same time a great number of concubines, with a view to a numerous offspring.
The kings propose annual prizes for a numerous family of children. Children are not brought into the presence of their parents until they are four years old.
Marriages are celebrated at the beginning of the vernal equinox. The bridegroom passes into the bride-chamber, having previously eaten some fruit, orcamel's marrow, but nothing else during the day.
§ 15.3.18 From the age of five to twenty-four years they are taught to use the bow, to throw the javelin, to ride, and to speak the truth. They have the most virtuous preceptors, who interweave useful fables in their discourses, and rehearse, sometimes with sometimes without, music, the actions of the gods and of illustrious men.
The youths are called to rise before day-break, at the sound of brazen instruments, and assemble in one spot, as if for arming themselves or for the chase. They are arranged in companies of fifty, to each of which one of the king's or a satrap's son is appointed as leader, who runs, followed at command by the others, an appointed distance of thirty or forty stadia.
They require them to give an account of each lesson, when they practise loud speaking, and exercise the breath and lungs. They are taught to endure heat, cold, and rains; to cross torrents, and keep their armour and clothes dry; to pasture animals, to watch all night in the open air, and to eat wild fruits, as the terminthus, acorns, and wild pears.
[These persons are calledCardaces, who live upon plunder, for 'carda' means a manly and warlike spirit.]
The daily food after the exercise of the gymnasium is bread, a cake, cardamum, a piece of salt, and dressed meat either roasted or boiled, and their drink is water.
Their mode of hunting is by throwing spears from horseback, or with the bow or the sling.
In the evening they are employed in planting trees, cutting roots, fabricating armour, and making lines and nets. The youth do not eat the game, but carry it home. The king gives rewards for running, and to the victors in the other contests of the pentathla (or five games). The youths are adorned with gold, esteeming it for its fiery appearance. They do not ornament the dead with gold, nor apply fire to them, on account of its being an object of veneration.
§ 15.3.19 They serve as soldiers in subordinate stations, and in those of command from twenty to fifty years of age, both on foot and on horseback. They do not concern themselves with the public markets, for they neither buy nor sell. They are armed with a romb-shaped shield. Besides quivers, they have battle-axes and short swords. On their heads they wear a cap rising like a tower. The breastplate is composed of scales of iron.
The dress of the chiefs consists of triple drawers, a double tunic with sleeves reaching to the knees; the under garment is white, the upper of a variegated colour. The cloak for summer is of a purple or violet colour, but for winter of a variegated colour. The turbans are similar to those of theMagi; and a deep double shoe. The generality of people wear a double tunic reaching to the half of the leg. A piece of fine linen is wrapped round the head. Each person has a bow and a sling.
The entertainments of thePersians are expensive. They set upon their table entire animals in great number, and of various kinds. Their couches, drinking-cups, and other articles are so brilliantly ornamented that they gleam with gold and silver.
§ 15.3.20 Their consultations on the most important affairs are carried on while they are drinking, and they consider the resolutions made at that time more to be depended upon than those made when sober.
On meeting persons of their acquaintance, and of equal rank with themselves, on the road, they approach and kiss them, but to persons of an inferior station they offer the cheek, and in that manner receive the kiss. But to persons of still lower condition they only bend the body.
Their mode of burial is to smear the bodies over with wax, and then to inter them. TheMagi are not buried, but the birds are allowed to devour them. These persons, according to the usage of the country, espouse even their mothers.
Such are the customs of thePersians.
§ 15.3.21 The following, mentioned byPolycletus, are perhaps customary practices:
AtSusa each king builds in the citadel, as memorials of the administration of his government, a dwelling for himself, treasure-houses, and magazines for tribute collected (in kind).
From the sea-coast they obtain silver, from the interior the produce of each province, as dyes, drugs, hair, wool, or anything else of this sort, andcattle. The apportionment of the tribute was settled byDarius [Longimanus, who was a very handsome person with the exception of the length of his arms, which reached to his knees]. The greater part both of gold and silver is wrought up, and there is not much in coined money. The former they consider as best adapted for presents, and for depositing in store-houses. So much coined money as suffices for their wants they think enough; but, on the other hand, money is coined in proportion to what is required for expenditure.
§ 15.3.22 Their habits are in general temperate. But their kings, from the great wealth which they possessed, degenerated into a luxurious way of life. They sent for wheat fromAssos inAeolia, forChalybonian wine fromSyria, and water from theEulaeus, which is the lightest of all, for anAttic cotylus measure of it weighs less by a drachm (than the same quantity of any other water).
§ 15.3.23 Of the barbarians thePersians were the best known to the Greeks, for none of the other barbarians who governedAsia governed Greece. The barbarians were not acquainted with the Greeks, and the Greeks were but slightly acquainted, and by distant report only, with the barbarians. As an instance,Homer was not acquainted with the empire of the Syrians nor of theMedes, for otherwise as he mentions the wealth of EgyptianThebes and ofPhoenicia, he would not have passed over in silence the wealth ofBabylon, ofNinus, and ofEcbatana.
ThePersians were the first people that brought Greeks under their dominion; theLydians (before them) did the same, they were not however masters of the whole, but of a small portion only ofAsia, that within the riverHalys; their empire lasted for a short time, during the reigns ofCroesus andAlyattes; and they were deprived of what little glory they had acquired, when conquered by thePersians.
ThePersians, (on the contrary, increased in power and,) as soon as they had destroyed theMedian empire, subdued theLydians and brought the Greeks ofAsia under their dominion. At a later period they even passed over into Greece and were worsted in many great battles, but still they continued to keep possession ofAsia, as far as the places on the sea-coast, until they were completely subdued by theMacedonians.
§ 15.3.24 The founder of their empire wasCyrus. He was succeeded by his sonCambyses, who was put to death by theMagi. The sevenPersians who killed theMagi delivered the kingdom into the hands ofDarius, the son ofHystaspes. The succession terminated withArses, whom Bagous the eunuch having killed set upDarius, who was not of the royal family.Alexander overthrewDarius, and reigned himself twelve years. The empire ofAsia was partitioned out among his successors, and transmitted to their descendants, but was dissolved after it had lasted about two hundred and fifty years.
At present thePersians are a separate people, governed by kings, who are subject to other kings; to the kings ofMacedon in former times, but now to those ofParthia.
§ 16.1.1 BOOK 16
ASSYRIA is contiguous toPersia andSusiana. This name is given toBabylonia, and to a large tract of country around; this tract containsAturia, in which isNineveh, theApolloniatis, theElymaei, theParaetacae, and theChalonitis about Mount Zagrum,— the plains aboutNineveh, namely, Dolomene, Calachene, Chazene, andAdiabene,— the nations ofMesopotamia, bordering upon theGordyaei; theMygdones aboutNisibis, extending to theZeugma of theEuphrates, and to the great range of country on the other side that river, occupied byArabians, and by those people who are properly called Syrians in the present age. This last people extend as far as theCilicians,Phoenicians, andJews, to the sea opposite the Sea ofEgypt, and to the Bay ofIssus.
§ 16.1.2 The name of Syrians seems to extend fromBabylonia as far as the Bay ofIssus, and, anciently, from this bay to theEuxine.
Both tribes of theCappadocians, those near theTaurus and those near thePontus, are called to this timeLeuco-Syrians (orWhite Syrians), as though there existed a nation of Black Syrians. These are the people situated beyond theTaurus, and I extend the name ofTaurus as far as theAmanus.
When the historians of the Syrian empire say that theMedes were overthrown by thePersians, and the Syrians by theMedes, they mean no other Syrians than those who built the royal palaces atBabylon andNineveh; andNinus, who builtNineveh inAturia, was one of these Syrians. His wife, who succeeded her husband, and foundedBabylon, wasSemiramis. These sovereigns were masters ofAsia. Many other works ofSemiramis, besides those atBabylon, are extant in almost every part of this continent, as, for example, artificial mounds, which are called mounds ofSemiramis, and walls and fortresses, with subterraneous passages; cisterns for water; roads to facilitate the ascent of mountains; canals communicating with rivers and lakes; roads and bridges.
The empire they left continued with their successors to the time of [the contest between]Sardanapalus andArbaces. It was afterwards transferred to theMedes.
§ 16.1.3 The cityNineveh was destroyed immediately upon the overthrow of the Syrians. It was much larger thanBabylon, and situated in the plain ofAturia.Aturia borders upon the places aboutArbela; between these is the riverLycus.Arbela and the parts about it belong toBabylonia. In the country on the other side of theLycus are the plains ofAturia, which surroundNineveh.
InAturia is situatedGaugamela, a village whereDarius was defeated and lost his kingdom. This place is remarkable for its name, which, when interpreted, signifies theCamel's House.Darius, the son ofHystaspes, gave it this name, and assigned (the revenues of) the place for the maintenance of acamel, which had undergone the greatest possible labour and fatigue in the journey through the deserts ofScythia, when carrying baggage and provision for the king. TheMacedonians, observing that this was a mean village, butArbela a considerable settlement (founded, as it is said, byArbelus, son of Athmoneus), reported that the battle was fought and the victory obtained nearArbela, which account was transmitted to historians.
§ 16.1.4 AfterArbela and the mountain Nicatorium (a name whichAlexander, after the victory atArbela, superadded), is the riverCaprus, situated at the same distance fromArbela as theLycus. The country is called Artacene. NearArbela is the cityDemetrias; next is the spring of naphtha, the fires, the temple of the goddess Anaea, Sadracae, the palace ofDarius, son ofHystaspes, the Cyparisson, or plantation of Cypresses, and the passage across theCaprus, which is close toSeleucia andBabylon.
§ 16.1.5 Babylon itself also is situated in a plain. The wall is 385 stadia in circumference, and 32 feet in thickness. The height of the space between the towers is 50, and of the towers 60 cubits. The roadway upon the walls will allow chariots with fourhorses when they meet to pass each other with ease. Whence, among the seven wonders of the world, are reckoned this wall and the hanging garden: the shape of the garden is a square, and each side of it measures four plethra. It consists of vaulted terraces, raised one above another, and resting upon cube-shaped pillars. These are hollow and filled with earth to allow trees of the largest size to be planted. The pillars, the vaults, and the terraces are constructed of baked brick and asphalt.
The ascent to the highest story is by stairs, and at their side are water engines, by means of which persons, appointed expressly for the purpose, are continually employed in raising water from theEuphrates into the garden. For the river, which is a stadium in breadth, flows through the middle of the city, and the garden is on the side of the river. The tomb also ofBelus is there. At present it is in ruins, having been demolished, as it is said, byXerxes. It was a quadrangular pyramid of baked brick, a stadium in height, and each of the sides a stadium in length.Alexander intended to repair it. It was a great undertaking, and required a long time for its completion (for ten thousand men were occupied two months in clearing away the mound of earth), so that he was not able to execute what he had attempted, before disease hurried him rapidly to his end. None of the persons who succeeded him attended to this undertaking; other works also were neglected, and the city was dilapidated, partly by thePersians, partly by time, and, through the indifference of theMacedonians to things of this kind, particularly afterSeleucus Nicator had fortifiedSeleucia on theTigris nearBabylon, at the distance of about 300 stadia.
Both this prince and all his successors directed their care to that city, and transferred to it the seat of empire. At present it is larger thanBabylon; the other is in great part deserted, so that no one would hesitate to apply to it what one of the comic writers said ofMegalopolis inArcadia, "The great city is a great desert." On account of the scarcity of timber, the beams and pillars of the houses were made of palm wood. They wind ropes of twisted reed round the pillars, paint them over with colours, and draw designs upon them; they cover the doors with a coat of asphaltus. These are lofty, and all the houses are vaulted on account of the want of timber. For the country is bare, a great part of it is covered with shrubs, and produces nothing but the palm. This tree grows in the greatest abundance inBabylonia. It is found inSusiana also in great quantity, on thePersian coast, and inCarmania.
They do not use tiles for their houses, because there are no great rains. The case is the same inSusiana and inSitacene.
§ 16.1.6 InBabylon a residence was set apart for the native philosophers calledChaldaeans, who are chiefly devoted to the study of astronomy. Some, who are not approved of by the rest, profess to understand genethlialogy, or the casting of nativities. There is also a tribe ofChaldaeans, who inhabit a district ofBabylonia, in the neighbourhood of theArabians, and of the sea called thePersian sea. There are several classes of theChaldaean astronomers. Some have the name of Orcheni, someBorsippeni, and many others, as if divided into sects, who disseminate different tenets on the same subjects. The mathematicians make mention of some individuals among them, asCidenas,Naburianus, andSudinus.Seleucus also ofSeleuceia is aChaldaean, and many other remarkable men.
§ 16.1.7 Borsippa is a city sacred toDiana andApollo. Here is a large linen manufactory. Bats of much larger size than those in other parts abound in it. They are caught and salted for food.
§ 16.1.8 The country of theBabylonians is surrounded on the east by theSusans,Elymaei, and Paraetaceni; on the south by thePersian Gulf, and theChaldaeans as far as theArabianMeseni; on the west by theArabianScenitae as far asAdiabene andGordyaea; on the north by theArmenians andMedes as far asZagrus, and the nations about .
§ 16.1.9 The country is intersected by many rivers, the largest of which are theEuphrates and theTigris: next to theIndian rivers, the rivers in the southern parts ofAsia are said to hold the second place. TheTigris is navigable upwards from its mouth toOpis, and to the presentSeleuceia.Opis is a village and a mart for the surrounding places. TheEuphrates also is navigable up toBabylon, a distance of more than 3000 stadia. ThePersians, through fear of incursions from without, and for the purpose of preventing vessels from ascending these rivers, constructed artificial cataracts.Alexander, on arriving there, destroyed as many of them as he could, those particularly [on theTigris from the sea] toOpis. But he bestowed great care upon the canals; for theEuphrates, at the commencement of summer, overflows; It begins to fill in the spring, when the snow inArmenia melts: the ploughed land, therefore, would be covered with water and be submerged, unless the overflow of the superabundant water were diverted by trenches and canals, as inEgypt the water of theNile is diverted. Hence the origin of canals. Great labour is requisite for their maintenance, for the soil is deep, soft, and yielding, so that it would easily be swept away by the stream; the fields would be laid bare, the canals filled, and the accumulation of mud would soon obstruct their mouths. Then, again, the excess of water discharging itself into the plains near the sea forms lakes, and marshes, and reed-grounds, supplying the reeds with which all kinds of platted vessels are woven; some of these vessels are capable of holding water, when covered over with asphaltus; others are used with the material in its natural state. Sails are also made of reeds; these resemble mats or hurdles.
§ 16.1.10 It is not, perhaps, possible to prevent inundations of this kind altogether, but it is the duty of good princes to afford all possible assistance. The assistance required is to prevent excessive overflow by the construction of dams, and to obviate the filling of rivers, produced by the accumulation of mud, by cleansing the canals, and removing stoppages at their mouths. The cleansing of the canals is easily performed, but the construction of dams requires the labour of numerous workmen. For the earth being soft and yielding, does not support the superincumbent mass, which sinks, and is itself carried away, and thus a difficulty arises in making dams at the mouth. Expedition is necessary in closing the canals to prevent all the water flowing out. When the canals dry up in the summer time, they cause the river to dry up also; and if the river is low (before the canals are closed), it cannot supply the canals in time with water, of which the country, burnt up and scorched, requires a very large quantity; for there is no difference, whether the crops are flooded by an excess or perish by drought and a failure of water. The navigation up the rivers (a source of many advantages) is continually obstructed by both the above-mentioned causes, and it is not possible to remedy this unless the mouths of the canals were quickly opened and quickly closed, and the canals were made to contain and preserve a mean between excess and deficiency of water.
§ 16.1.11 Aristobulus relates thatAlexander himself, when he was sailing up the river, and directing the course of the boat, inspected the canals, and ordered them to be cleared by his multitude of followers; he likewise stopped up some of the mouths, and opened others. He observed that one of these canals, which took a direction more immediately to the marshes, and to the lakes in front ofArabia, had a mouth very difficult to be dealt with, and which could not be easily closed on account of the soft and yielding nature of the soil; he (therefore) opened a new mouth at the distance of 30 stadia, selecting a place with a rocky bottom, and to this the current was diverted. But in doing this he was taking precautions thatArabia should not become entirely inaccessible in consequence of the lakes and marshes, as it was already almost an island from the quantity of water (which surrounded it). For he contemplated making himself master of this country; and he had already provided a fleet and places of rendezvous; and had built vessels inPhoenicia and atCyprus, some of which were in separate pieces, others were in parts, fastened together by bolts. These, after being conveyed toThapsacus in seven distances of a day's march, were then to be transported down the river toBabylon. He constructed other boats inBabylonia, from cypress trees in the groves and parks, for there is a scarcity of timber inBabylonia. Among theCossaei, and some other tribes, the supply of timber is not great,
The pretext for the war, saysAristobulus, was that theArabians were the only people who did not send their ambassadors toAlexander; but the true reason was his ambition to be lord of all.
When he was informed that they worshipped two deities only,Jupiter andBacchus, who supply what is most requisite for the subsistence of mankind, he supposed that, after his conquests, they would worship him as a third, if he permitted them to enjoy their former national independence. Thus wasAlexander employed in clearing the canals, and in examining minutely the sepulchres of the kings, most of which are situated among the lakes.
§ 16.1.12 Eratosthenes, when he is speaking of the lakes nearArabia, says, that the water, when it cannot find an outlet, opens passages underground, and is conveyed through these as far as theCoele-Syrians, it is also compressed and forced into the parts nearRhinocolura and MountCasius, and there forms lakes and deep pits. But I know not whether this is probable. For the overflowings of the water of theEuphrates, which form the lakes and marshes nearArabia, are near thePersian sea. But the isthmus which separates them is neither large nor rocky, so that it was more probable that the water forced its way in this direction into the sea, either under the ground, or across the surface, than that it traversed so dry and parched a soil for more than 6000 stadia; particularly, when we observe, situated mid-way in this course,Libanus,Antilibanus, and MountCasius.
Such, then, are the accounts ofEratosthenes andAristobulus.
§ 16.1.13 ButPolycleitus says, that theEuphrates does not overflow its banks, because its course is through large plains; that of the mountains (from which it is supplied), some are distant 2000, and theCossaean mountains scarcely 1000 stadia, that they are not very high, nor covered with snow to a great depth, and therefore do not occasion the snow to melt in great masses, for the most elevated mountains are in the northern parts aboveEcbatana; towards the south they are divided, spread out, and are much lower; theTigris also receives the greater part of the water [which comes down from them], and thus overflows its banks.
The last assertion is evidently absurd, because theTigris descends into the same plains (as theEuphrates); and the above-mentioned mountains are not of the same height, the northern being more elevated, the southern extending in breadth, but are of a lower altitude. The quantity of snow is not, however, to be estimated by altitude only, but by aspect. The same mountain has more snow on the northern than on the southern side, and the snow continues longer on the former than on the latter. As theTigris therefore receives from the most southern parts ofArmenia, which are nearBabylon, the water of the melted snow, of which there is no great quantity, since it comes from the southern side, it should overflow in a less degree than theEuphrates, which receives the water from both parts (northern and southern); and not from a single mountain only, but from many, as I have mentioned in the description ofArmenia. To this we must add the length of the river, the large tract of country which it traverses in the Greater and in the LesserArmenia, the large space it takes in its course in passing out of the LesserArmenia andCappadocia, after issuing out of theTaurus in its way toThapsacus (forming the boundary betweenSyria below andMesopotamia), and the large remaining portion of country as far asBabylon and to its mouth, a course in all of 36,000 stadia.
This, then, on the subject of the canals (ofBabylonia).
§ 16.1.14 Babylonia produces barley in larger quantity than any other country, for a produce of three hundred-fold is spoken of. The palm tree furnishes everything else, bread, wine, vinegar, and meal; all kinds of woven articles are also procured from it. Braziers use the stones of the fruit instead of charcoal. When softened by being soaked in water, they are food for fatteningoxen andsheep.
It is said that there is aPersian song in which are reckoned up 360 useful properties of the palm.
They employ for the most part the oil of sesamum, a plant which is rare in other places.
§ 16.1.15 Asphaltus is found in great abundance inBabylonia.Eratosthenes describes it as follows.
The liquid asphaltus, which is called naphtha, is found inSusiana; the dry kind, which can be made solid, inBabylonia. There is a spring of it near theEuphrates. When this river overflows at the time of the melting of the snow, the spring also of asphaltus is filled, and overflows into the river, where large clods are consolidated, fit for buildings constructed of baked bricks. Others say that the liquid kind also is found inBabylonia. With respect to the solid kind, I have described its great utility in the construction of buildings. They say that boats (of reeds) are woven, which, when besmeared with asphaltus, are firmly compacted. The liquid kind, called naphtha, is of a singular nature. When it is brought near the fire, the fire catches it; and if a body smeared over with it is brought near the fire, it burns with a flame, which it is impossible to extinguish, except with a large quantity of water; with a small quantity it burns more violently, but it may be smothered and extinguished by mud, vinegar, alum, and glue. It is said thatAlexander, as an experiment, ordered naphtha to be poured over a boy in a bath, and a lamp to be brought near his body. The boy became enveloped in flames, and would have perished if the bystanders had not mastered the fire by pouring upon him a great quantity of water, and thus saved his life.
Poseidonius says that there are springs of naphtha inBabylonia, some of which produce white, others black, naphtha; the first of these, I mean the white naphtha, which attracts flame, is liquid sulphur; the second, or black naphtha, is liquid asphaltus, and is burnt in lamps instead of oil.
§ 16.1.16 In former times the capital ofAssyrians wasBabylon; it is now calledSeleuceia upon theTigris. Near it is a large village calledCtesiphon. This theParthian kings usually made their winter residence, with a view to spare theSeleucians the burden of furnishing quarters for the Scythian soldiery. In consequence of the power ofParthia,Ctesiphon may be considered as a city rather than a village; from its size it is capable of lodging a great multitude of people; it has been adorned with public buildings by theParthians, and has furnished merchandise, and given rise to arts profitable to its masters.
The kings usually passed the winter there, on account of the salubrity of the air, and the summer atEcbatana and inHyrcania, induced by the ancient renown of these places.
As we call the countryBabylonia, so we call the peopleBabylonians, not from the name of the city, but of the country; the case is not precisely the same, however, as regards even natives ofSeleuceia, as, for instance,Diogenes, the stoic philosopher [who had the appellation of theBabylonian, and not the Seleucian].
§ 16.1.17 At the distance of 500 stadia fromSeleuceia isArtemita, a considerable city, situated nearly directly to the east, which is the position also ofSitacene. This extensive and fertile tract of country lies betweenBabylon andSusiana, so that the whole road in travelling fromBabylon toSusa passes throughSitacene. The road fromSusa into the interior ofPersis, through the territory of theUxii, and fromPersis into the middle ofCarmania, leads also towards the east.
Persis, which is a large country, encompassesCarmania on the [west] and north. Close to it adjoinParaetacene, and theCossaean territory as far as theCaspian Gates, inhabited by mountainous and predatory tribes. Contiguous toSusiana isElymais, a great part of which is rugged, and inhabited by robbers. ToElymais adjoin the country about theZagrus andMedia.
§ 16.1.18 TheCossaei, like the neighbouring mountaineers, are for the most part archers, and are always out on foraging parties. For as they occupy a country of small extent, and barren, they are compelled by necessity to live at the expense of others. They are also necessarily powerful, for they are all fighting men. When theElymaei were at war with theBabylonians and Susians, they supplied theElymaei with thirteen thousand auxiliaries.
TheParaetaceni attend to the cultivation of the ground more than theCossaei, but even these people do not abstain from robbery.
TheElymaei occupy a country larger in extent, and more varied, than that of theParaetaceni. The fertile part of it is inhabited by husbandmen. The mountainous tract is a nursery for soldiers, the greatest part of whom are archers. As it is of considerable extent, it can furnish a great military force; their king, who possesses great power, refuses to be subject, like others, to the king ofParthia. The country was similarly independent in the time of thePersians, and afterwards in the time of theMacedonians, who governedSyria. WhenAntiochus the Great attempted to plunder the temple ofBelus, the neighbouring barbarians, unassisted, attacked and put him to death. In after-times the king ofParthia heard that the temples in their country contained great wealth, but knowing that the people would not submit, and admonished by the fate ofAntiochus, he invaded their country with a large army; he took the temple ofMinerva, and that ofDiana, calledAzara, and carried away treasure to the amount of 10,000 talents.Seleuceia also, a large city on the river Hedyphon, was taken. It was formerly called Soloce.
There are three convenient entrances into this country; one fromMedia and the places about theZagrus, throughMassabatice; a second fromSusis, through the district Gabiane. Both Gabiane andMassabatice are provinces ofElymaea. A third passage is that fromPersis. Corbiane also is a province ofElymais.
Sagapeni and Silaceni, small principalities, border uponElymais.
Such, then, is the number and the character of the nations situated aboveBabylonia towards the east.
We have said thatMedia andArmenia lie to the north, andAdiabene andMesopotamia to the west ofBabylonia.
§ 16.1.19 The greatest part ofAdiabene consists of plains, and, although it is a portion ofBabylon, has its own prince. In some places it is contiguous toArmenia. For theMedes,Armenians, andBabylonians, the three greatest nations in these parts, were from the first in the practice, on convenient opportunities, of waging continual war with each other, and then making peace, which state of things continued till the establishment of theParthian empire.
TheParthians subdued theMedes andBabylonians, but never at any time conquered theArmenians. They made frequent inroads into their country, but the people were not subdued, andTigranes, as I have mentioned in the description ofArmenia, opposed them with great vigour and success.
Such is the nature ofAdiabene. TheAdiabeni are also called Saccopodes.
We shall describeMesopotamia and the nations towards the south, after premising a short account of the customs of theAssyrians.
§ 16.1.20 Their other customs are like those of thePersians, but this is peculiar to themselves: three discreet persons, chiefs of each tribe, are appointed, who present publicly young women who are marriageable, and give notice by the crier, beginning with those most in estimation, of a sale of them to men intending to become husbands. In this manner marriages are contracted.
As often as the parties have sexual intercourse with one another, they rise, each apart from the other, to burn perfumes. In the morning they wash, before touching any household vessel. For as ablution is customary after touching a dead body, so is it practised after sexual intercourse. There is a custom prescribed by an oracle for all theBabylonian women to have intercourse with strangers. The women repair to a temple ofVenus, accompanied by numerous attendants and a crowd of people. Each woman has a cord round her head, The man approaches a woman, and places on her lap as much money as he thinks proper; he then leads her away to a distance from the sacred grove, and has intercourse with her. The money is considered as consecrated toVenus.
There are three tribunals, one consisting of persons who are past military service, another of nobles, and a third of old men, besides another appointed by the king. It is the business of the latter to dispose of the virgins in marriage, and to determine causes respecting adultery; of another to decide those relative to theft; and of the third, those of assault and violence.
The sick are brought out of their houses into the highways, and inquiry is made of passengers whether any of them can give information of a remedy for the disease. There is no one so ill-disposed as not to accost the sick person, and acquaint him with anything that he considers may conduce to his recovery.
Their dress is a tunic reaching to the feet, an upper garment of wool, [and] a white cloak. The hair is long. They wear a shoe resembling a buskin. They wear also a seal, and carry a staff not plain, but with a figure upon the top of it, as an apple, a rose, a lily, or something of the kind. They anoint themselves with oil of sesamum. They bewail the dead, like theEgyptians and many other nations. They bury the body in honey, first besmearing it with wax.
There are three communities which have no corn. They live in the marshes, and subsist on fish. Their mode of life is like that of the inhabitants ofGedrosia.
§ 16.1.21 Mesopotamia has its name from an accidental circumstance. We have said that it is situated between theEuphrates and theTigris, that theTigris washes its eastern side only, and theEuphrates its western and southern sides. To the north is theTaurus, which separatesArmenia fromMesopotamia. The greatest distance by which they are separated from each other is that towards the mountains. This distance may be the same whichEratosthenes mentions, and is reckoned fromThapsacus, where there was the (Zeugma) old bridge of theEuphrates, to the (Zeugma) passage over theTigris, whereAlexander crossed it, a distance, that is, of 2400 stadia. The least distance between them is somewhere aboutSeleuceia andBabylon, and is a little more than 200 stadia.
TheTigris flows through the middle of the lake calledThopitis in the direction of its breadth, and after traversing it to the opposite bank, sinks under ground with a loud noise and rushing of air. Its course is for a long space invisible, but it rises again to the surface not far fromGordyaea. According toEratosthenes, it traverses the lake with such rapidity, that although the lake is saline and without fish, yet in this part it is fresh, has a current, and abounds with fish.
§ 16.1.22 The contracted shape ofMesopotamia extends far in length, and somewhat resembles a ship. TheEuphrates forms the larger part of its boundary. The distance fromThapsacus toBabylon, according toEratosthenes, is 4800 stadia, and from the (Zeugma bridge inCommagene, whereMesopotamia begins, toThapsacus, is not less than 2000 stadia.
§ 16.1.23 The country lying at the foot of the mountains is very fertile. The people, called by theMacedoniansMygdones, occupy the parts towards theEuphrates, and both Zeugmata, that is, the Zeugma inCommagene, and the ancientZeugma atThapsacus. In their territory isNisibis, which they called alsoAntioch inMygdonia, situated below MountMasius, andTigranocerta, and the places aboutCarrhae,Nicephorium, Chordiraza, andSinnaca, whereCrassus was taken prisoner by stratagem, and put to death bySurena, theParthian general.
§ 16.1.24 Near theTigris are the places belonging to theGordyaei, whom the ancients calledCarduchi; their cities are Sareisa, Satalca, and Pinaca, a very strong fortress with three citadels, each enclosed by its own wall, so that it is as it were a triple city. It was, however, subject to the king ofArmenia; the Romans also took it by storm, although theGordyaei had the reputation of excelling in the art of building, and to be skilful in the construction of siege engines. It was for this reasonTigranes took them into his service. The rest ofMesopotamia (Gordyaea?) was subject to the Romans.Pompey assigned toTigranes the largest and best portion of the country; for it has fine pastures, is rich in plants, and produces ever-greens and an aromatic, the amomum. It breedslions also. It furnishes naphtha, and the stone called Gangitis, which drives away reptiles.
§ 16.1.25 Gordys, the son ofTriptolemus, is related to have colonizedGordyene. TheEretrians afterwards, who were carried away by force by thePersians, settled here. We shall soon speak ofTriptolemus in our description ofSyria.
§ 16.1.26 The parts ofMesopotamia inclining to the south, and at a distance from the mountains, are an arid and barren district, occupied by theArabianScenitae, a tribe of robbers and shepherds, who readily move from place to place, whenever pasture or booty begin to be exhausted. The country lying at the foot of the mountains is harassed both by these people and by theArmenians. They are situated above, and keep them in subjection by force. It is at last subject for the most part to these people, or to theParthians, who are situated at their side, and possess bothMedia andBabylonia.
§ 16.1.27 Between theTigris and theEuphrates flows a river, calledBasileios (or the Royal river), and aboutAnthemusia another called theAborrhas. The road for merchants going fromSyria toSeleuceia andBabylon lies through the country of the (Arabian)Scenitae, [now called Malii,] and through the desert belonging to their territory. TheEuphrates is crossed in the latitude ofAnthemusia, a place inMesopotamia. Above the river, at the distance of four schoeni, isBambyce, which is called by the names ofEdessa andHierapolis, where the Syrian goddessAtargatis is worshipped. After crossing the river, the road lies through a desert country on the borders ofBabylonia to Scenae, a considerable city, situated on the banks of a canal. From the passage across the river to Scenae is a journey of five and twenty days. There are (on the road) owners ofcamels, who keep resting-places, which are well supplied with water from cisterns, or transported from a distance.
TheScenitae exact a moderate tribute from merchants, but [otherwise] do not molest them: the merchants, therefore, avoid the country on the banks of the river, and risk a journey through the desert, leaving the river on the right hand at a distance of nearly three days' march. For the chiefs of the tribes living on both banks of the river, who occupy not indeed a fertile territory, yet one less sterile than the rest (of the country), are settled in the midst of their own peculiar domains, and each exacts a tribute of no moderate amount for himself. And it is difficult among so large a body of people, and of such daring habits, to establish any common standard of tribute advantageous to the merchant.
Scene is distant fromSeleuceia 18 schoeni.
§ 16.1.28 TheEuphrates and its eastern banks are the boundaries of theParthian empire. The Romans and the chiefs of theArabian tribes occupy the parts on this side theEuphrates as far asBabylonia. Some of the chiefs attach themselves in preference to theParthians, others to the Romans, to whom they adjoin. TheScenitae nomads, who live near the river, are less friendly to the Romans than those tribes who are situated at a distance nearArabia Felix. TheParthians were once solicitous of conciliating the friendship of the Romans, but having repulsedCrassus, who began the war with them, they suffered reprisals, when they themselves commenced hostilities, and sentPacorus intoAsia. ButAntony, following the advice of theArmenian, was betrayed, and was unsuccessful (against them).Phraates, his successor, was so anxious to obtain the friendship ofAugustus Caesar, that he even sent the trophies, which theParthians had set up as memorials of the defeat of the Romans. He also invitedTitius to a conference, who was at that time prefect ofSyria, and delivered into his hands, as hostages, four of his legitimate sons, Seraspadanes, Rhodaspes,Phraates, and Bonones, with two of their wives and four of their sons; for he was apprehensive of conspiracy and attempts on his life. He knew that no one could prevail against him, unless he was opposed by one of the Arsacian family, to which race theParthians were strongly attached. He therefore removed the sons out of his way, with a view of annihilating the hopes of the disaffected.
The surviving sons, who live atRome, are entertained as princes at the public expense. The other kings (his successors) have continued to send ambassadors (toRome), and to hold conferences (with the Roman prefects).
§ 16.2.1 SYRIA is bounded on the north byCilicia and the mountainAmanus; from the sea to the bridge on theEuphrates (that is, from theIssian Gulf to the Zeugma inCommagene) is a distance of 1400 stadia, and forms the above-mentioned (northern) boundary; on the east it is bounded by theEuphrates and theArabianScenitae, who live on this side theEuphrates; on the south, byArabia Felix andEgypt; on the west, by theEgyptian and Syrian Seas as far asIssus.
§ 16.2.2 Beginning fromCilicia and MountAmanus, we set down as parts ofSyria,Commagene, and theSeleucis ofSyria, as it is called, thenCoele-Syria, lastly, on the coast,Phoenicia, and in the interior,Judaea. Some writers divide the whole ofSyria into Coelo-Syrians, Syrians, andPhoenicians, and say that there are intermixed with these four other nations,Jews,Idumaeans,Gazaeans, and Azotii, some of whom are husbandmen, as the Syrians and Coelo-Syrians, and others merchants, as thePhoenicians.
§ 16.2.3 This is the general description [ofSyria].
In describing it in detail, we say thatCommagene is rather a small district. It contains a strong city,Samosata, in which was the seat of the kings. At present it is a (Roman) province. A very fertile but small territory lies around it. Here is now the Zeugma, or bridge, of theEuphrates, and near it is situatedSeleuceia, a fortress ofMesopotamia, assigned byPompey to theCommageneans. HereTigranes confined in prison for some time and put to deathSelene surnamed Cleopatra, after she was dispossessed ofSyria.
§ 16.2.4 Seleucis is the best of the above-mentioned portions ofSyria. It is called and is a Tetrapolis, and derives its name from the four distinguished cities which it contains; for there are more than four cities, but the four largest areAntioch Epidaphne,Seleuceia in Pieria,Apameia, andLaodiceia. They were called Sisters from the concord which existed between them. They were founded bySeleucus Nicator. The largest bore the name of his father, and the strongest his own. Of the others,Apameia had its name from his wifeApama, andLaodiceia from his mother.
In conformity with its character of Tetrapolis,Seleucis, according toPoseidonius, was divided into four satrapies;Coele-Syria into the same number, but [Commagene, like]Mesopotamia, consisted of one.
Antioch also is a Tetrapolis, consisting (as the name implies) of four portions, each of which has its own, and all of them a common wall.
[Seleucus] Nicator founded the first of these portions, transferring thither settlers fromAntigonia, which a short time beforeAntigonus, son ofPhilip, had built near it. The second was built by the general body of settlers; the third bySeleucus, the son ofCallinicus; the fourth byAntiochus, the son ofEpiphanes.
§ 16.2.5 Antioch is the metropolis ofSyria. A palace was constructed there for the princes of the country. It is not much inferior in riches and magnitude toSeleuceia on theTigris andAlexandreia inEgypt.
[Seleucus] Nicator settled here the descendants ofTriptolemus, whom we have mentioned a little before. On this account the people ofAntioch regard him as a hero, and celebrate a festival to his honour on MountCasius nearSeleuceia. They say that when he was sent by theArgives in search ofIo, who first disappeared atTyre, he wandered throughCilicia; that some of hisArgive companions separated from him and foundedTarsus; that the rest attended him along the sea-coast, and, relinquishing their search, settled with him on the banks of theOrontes; thatGordys the son ofTriptolemus, with some of those who had accompanied his father, founded a colony inGordyaea, and that the descendants of the rest became settlers among the inhabitants ofAntioch.
§ 16.2.6 Daphne, a town of moderate size, is situated aboveAntioch at the distance of 40 stadia. Here is a large forest, with a thick covert of shade and springs of water flowing through it. In the midst of the forest is a sacred grove, which is a sanctuary, and a temple ofApollo andDiana. It is the custom for the inhabitants ofAntioch and the neighbouring people to assemble here to celebrate public festivals. The forest is 80 stadia in circumference.
§ 16.2.7 The riverOrontes flows near the city. Its source is inCoele-Syria. Having taken its course underground, it reappears, traverses the territory ofApameia toAntioch, approaching the latter city, and then descends to the sea atSeleuceia. The name of the river was formerlyTyphon, but was changed toOrontes, from the name of the person who constructed the bridge over it.
According to the fable, it was somewhere here thatTyphon was struck with lightning, and here also was the scene of the fable of theArimi, whom we have before mentioned.Typhon was aserpent, it is said, and being struck by lightning, endeavoured to make its escape, and sought refuge in the ground; it deeply furrowed the earth, and (as it moved along) formed the bed of the river; having descended under-ground, it caused a spring to break out, and fromTyphon the river had its name.
On the west the sea, into which theOrontes discharges itself, is situated belowAntioch inSeleuceia, which is distant from the mouth of the river 40, and fromAntioch 120 stadia. The ascent by the river toAntioch is performed in one day.
To the east ofAntioch are theEuphrates,Bambyce,Beroea, and Heracleia, small towns formerly under the government ofDionysius, the son ofHeracleon. Heracleia is distant 20 stadia from the temple ofDiana Cyrrhestis.
§ 16.2.8 Then follows the district ofCyrrhestica, which extends as far as that ofAntioch. On the north near it are MountAmanus andCommagene.Cyrrhestica extends as far as these places, and touches them. Here is situated a city,Gindarus, the acropolis ofCyrrhestica, and a convenient resort for robbers, and near it a place called Heracleium. It was near these places thatPacorus, the eldest of the sons of theParthian king, who had invadedSyria, was defeated byVentidius, and killed.
Pagrae, in the district ofAntioch, is close toGindarus. It is a strong fortress situated on the pass over theAmanus, which leads from the gates of theAmanus intoSyria. BelowPagrae lies the plain ofAntioch, through which flow the rivers Arceuthus,Orontes, and Labotas. In this plain is also theCharax of Meleagrus, and the river Oenoparas, on the banks of whichPtolemy Philometor, after having defeatedAlexander Balas, died of his wounds.
Above these places is a hill called Trapezon from its form, and upon itVentidius engaged Phranicates theParthian general.
After these places, near the sea, areSeleuceia andPieria, a mountain continuous with theAmanus andRhosus, situated betweenIssus andSeleuceia.
Seleuceia formerly had the name of Hydatopotami (rivers of water). It is a considerable fortress, and may defy all attacks; whereforePompey, having excluded from itTigranes, declared it a free city.
To the south ofAntioch isApameia, situated in the interior, and to the south ofSeleuceia, the mountainsCasius and Anti-Casius.
Still further on fromSeleuceia are the mouths of theOrontes, then the Nymphaeum, a kind of sacred cave, nextCasium, then followsPoseidium a small city, and Heracleia.
§ 16.2.9 Then followsLaodiceia, situated on the sea; it is a very well-built city, with a good harbour; the territory, besides its fertility in other respects, abounds with wine, of which the greatest part is exported toAlexandreia. The whole mountain overhanging the city is planted almost to its summit with vines. The summit of the mountain is at a great distance fromLaodiceia, sloping gently and by degrees upwards from the city; but it rises perpendicularly overApameia.
Laodiceia suffered severely whenDolabella took refuge there. Being besieged byCassius, he defended it until his death, but he involved in his own ruin the destruction of many parts of the city.
§ 16.2.10 In the district ofApameia is a city well fortified in almost every part. For it consists of a well-fortified hill, situated in a hollow plain, and almost surrounded by theOrontes, which, passing by a large lake in the neighbourhood, flows through wide-spread marshes and meadows of vast extent, affording pasture forcattle andhorses. The city is thus securely situated, and received the name Cherrhonesus (or the peninsula) from the nature of its position. It is well supplied from a very large fertile tract of country, through which theOrontes flows with numerous windings.Seleucus Nicator, and succeeding kings, kept there five hundred elephants, and the greater part of their army.
It was formerly calledPella by the firstMacedonians, because most of the soldiers of theMacedonian army had settled there; forPella, the native place ofPhilip andAlexander, was held to be the metropolis of theMacedonians. Here also the soldiers were mustered, and the breed ofhorses kept up. There were in the royal stud more than thirty thousand brood mares and three hundred stallions. Here were employed colt-breakers, instructors in the method of fighting in heavy armour, and all who were paid to teach the arts of war.
The powerTryphon surnamed Diodotus acquired is a proof of the influence of this place; for when he aimed at the empire ofSyria, he madeApameia the centre of his operations. He was born at Casiana, a strong fortress in the Apameian district, and educated inApameia; he was a favourite of the king and the persons about the court. When he attempted to effect a revolution in the state, he obtained his supplies fromApameia and from the neighbouring cities,Larisa, Casiana, Megara, Apollonia, and others like them, all of which were reckoned to belong to the district ofApameia. He was proclaimed king of this country, and maintained his sovereignty for a long time.Caecilius Bassus, at the head of two legions, causedApameia to revolt, and was besieged by two large Roman armies, but his resistance was so vigorous and long that he only surrendered voluntarily and on his own conditions. For the country supplied his army with provisions, and a great many of the chiefs of the neighbouring tribes were his allies, who possessed strongholds, among which wasLysias, situated above the lake, nearApameia,Arethusa, belonging toSampsiceramus andIamblichus his son, chiefs of the tribe of theEmeseni. At no great distance wereHeliopolis andChalcis, which were subject toPtolemy, son of Mennaeus, who possessed theMassyas and the mountainous country of theIturaeans. Among the auxiliaries ofBassus was Alchaedamnus, king of theRhambaei, a tribe of the Nomads on this side of theEuphrates. He was a friend of the Romans, but, considering himself as having been unjustly treated by their governors, he retired toMesopotamia, and then became a tributary ofBassus.Poseidonius theStoic was a native of this place, a man of the most extensive learning among the philosophers of our times.
§ 16.2.11 The tract calledParapotamia, belonging to the Arab chiefs, and Chalcidica, extending from theMassyas, border upon the district ofApameia on the east; and nearly all the country further to the south ofApameia belongs to theScenitae, who resemble the Nomades ofMesopotamia. In proportion as the nations approach the Syrians they become more civilized, while theArabians andScenitae are less so. Their governments are better constituted [as that ofArethusa underSampsiceramus, that of Themella under Gambarus, and other states of this kind].
§ 16.2.12 Such is the nature of the interior parts of the district ofSeleuceia.
The remainder of the navigation along the coast fromLaodiceia is such as I shall now describe.
NearLaodiceia are the small cities,Poseidium, Heracleium, andGabala. Then follows the maritime tract of theAradii, where arePaltus,Balanaea, andCarnus, the arsenal ofAradus, which has a small harbour; then Enydra, andMarathus, an ancient city of thePhoenicians in ruins. TheAradii divided the territory by lot. Then follows the districtSimyra. Continuous with these places isOrthosia, then the riverEleutherus, which some make the boundary ofSeleucis towardsPhoenicia andCoele-Syria.
§ 16.2.13 Aradus is in front of a rocky coast without harbours, and situated nearly between its arsenal andMarathus. It is distant from the land 20 stadia. It is a rock, surrounded by the sea, of about seven stadia in circuit, and covered with dwellings. The population even at present is so large that the houses have many stories. It was colonized, it is said, by fugitives fromSidon. The inhabitants are supplied with water partly from cisterns containing rain water, and partly from the opposite coast. In war time they obtain water a little in front of the city, from the channel (between the island and the mainland), in which there is an abundant spring. The water is obtained by letting down from a boat, which serves for the purpose, and inverting over the spring (at the bottom of the sea), a wide-mouthed funnel of lead, the end of which is contracted to a moderate-sized opening; round this is fastened a (long) leathern pipe, which we may call the neck, and which receives the water, forced up from the spring through the funnel. The water first forced up is sea water, but the boatmen wait for the flow of pure and potable water, which is received into vessels ready for the purpose. in as large a quantity as may be required, and carry it to the city.
§ 16.2.14 TheAradii were anciently governed by their own kings in the same manner as all the otherPhoenician cities. Afterwards thePersians,Macedonians, and now the Romans have changed the government to its present state.
TheAradii, together with the otherPhoenicians, consented to become allies of the Syrian kings; but upon the dissension of the two brothers,Callinicus Seleucus andAntiochus Hierax, as he was called, they espoused the party ofCallinicus; they entered into a treaty, by which they were allowed to receive persons who quitted the king's dominions, and took refuge among them, and were not obliged to deliver them up against their will. They were not, however, to suffer them to embark and quit the island without the king's permission. From this they derived great advantages; for those who took refuge there were not ordinary people, but persons who had held the highest trusts, and apprehended the worst consequences (when they fled). They regarded those who received them with hospitality as their benefactors; they acknowledged their preservers, and remembered with gratitude the kindness which they had received, particularly after their return to their own country. It was thus that theAradii acquired possession of a large part of the opposite continent, most of which they possess even at present, and were otherwise successful. To this good fortune they added prudence and industry in the conduct of their maritime affairs; when they saw their neighbours, theCilicians, engaged inpiratical adventures, they never on any occasion took part with them in such (a disgraceful) occupation.
§ 16.2.15 AfterOrthosia and the riverEleutherus isTripolis, which has its designation from the fact of its consisting of three cities,Tyre,Sidon, andAradus. Contiguous toTripolis isTheoprosopon, where the mountainLibanus terminates. Between them lies a small place calledTrieres.
§ 16.2.16 There are two mountains, which formCoele-Syria, as it is called, lying nearly parallel to each other; the commencement of the ascent of both these mountains,Libanus andAntilibanus, is a little way from the sea;Libanus rises above the sea nearTripolis andTheoprosopon, andAntilibanus, above the sea nearSidon. They terminate somewhere near theArabian mountains, which are above the district ofDamascus and theTrachones as they are there called, where they form fruitful hills. A hollow plain lies between them, the breadth of which towards the sea is 200 stadia, and the length from the sea to the interior is about twice that number of stadia. Rivers flow through it, the largest of which is theJordan, which water a country fertile and productive of all things. It contains also a lake, which produces the aromatic rush and reed. In it are also marshes. The name of the lake isGennesaritis. It produces also balsamum.
Among the rivers is theChrysorrhoas, which commences from the city and territory ofDamascus, and is almost entirely drained by water-courses; for it supplies with water a large tract of country, with a very deep soil.
TheLycus and theJordan are navigated upwards chiefly by theAradii, with vessels of burden.
§ 16.2.17 Of the plains, the first reckoning from the sea is calledMacras and Macra-pedium. HerePoseidonius says there was seen aserpent lying dead, which was nearly a plethrum in length, and of such a bulk and thickness that men on horseback standing on each side of its body could not see one another; the jaws when opened could take in a man on horseback, and the scales of the skin were larger than a shield.
§ 16.2.18 Next to the plain ofMacras is that ofMassyas, which also contains some mountainous parts, among which isChalcis, the acropolis, as it were, of theMassyas. The commencement of this plain is atLaodiceia, nearLibanus. TheIturaeans andArabians, all of whom are freebooters, occupy the whole of the mountainous tracts. The husbandmen live in the plains, and when harassed by the freebooters, they require protection of various kinds. The robbers have strongholds from which they issue forth; those, for example, who occupyLibanus have high up on the mountain the fortresses Sinna, Borrhama, and some others like them; lower down,Botrys and Gigartus, caves also near the sea, and the castle on the promontoryTheoprosopon.Pompey destroyed these fastnesses, from whence the robbers overranByblus, andBerytus situated next to it, and which lie betweenSidon andTheoprosopon.
Byblus, the royal seat ofCinyrus, is sacred toAdonis.Pompey delivered this place from the tyranny ofCinyrus, by striking off his head. It is situated upon an eminence at a little distance from the sea.
§ 16.2.19 AfterByblus is the riverAdonis, and the mountain Climax, and Palae-Byblus, then the riverLycus, andBerytus. This latter place was razed byTryphon, but now the Romans have restored it, and two legions were stationed there byAgrippa, who also added to it a large portion of the territory ofMassyas, as far as the sources of theOrontes. These sources are nearLibanus, the Paradeisus, and theEgyptian Fort near the district ofApameia. These places lie near the sea.
§ 16.2.20 Above theMassyas is the Royal Valley, as it is called, and the territory ofDamascus, so highly extolled.Damascus is a considerable city, and in the time of thePersian empire was nearly the most distinguished place in that country.
AboveDamascus are the two (hills) calledTrachones; then, towards the parts occupied byArabians andIturaeans promiscuously, are mountains of difficult access, in which were caves extending to a great depth. One of these caves was capable of containing four thousand robbers, when the territory ofDamascus was subject to incursions from various quarters. The Barbarians used to rob the merchants most generally on the side ofArabia Felix, but this happens less frequently since the destruction of the bands of the robbers underZenodorus, by the good government of the Romans, and in consequence of the security afforded by the soldiers stationed and maintained inSyria.
§ 16.2.21 The whole country aboveSeleucis, extending towardsEgypt andArabia, is calledCoele-Syria, but peculiarly the tract bounded byLibanus andAntilibanus, of the remainder one part is the coast extending fromOrthosia as far asPelusium, and is calledPhoenicia, a narrow strip of land along the sea; the other, situated abovePhoenicia in the interior betweenGaza andAntilibanus, and extending to theArabians, calledJudaea.
§ 16.2.22 Having describedCoele-Syria properly so called, we pass on toPhoenicia, of which we have already described the part extending fromOrthosia toBerytus.
Next toBerytus isSidon, at the distance of 400 stadia. Between these places is the river Tamyras, and the grove ofAsclepius andLeontopolis.
Next toSidon isTyre, the largest and most ancient city of thePhoenicians. This city is the rival ofSidon in magnitude, fame, and antiquity, as recorded in many fables. For although poets have celebratedSidon more thanTyre (Homer, however, does not even mentionTyre), yet the colonies sent into Africa and Spain, as far as, and beyond thePillars, extol much more the glory ofTyre. Both however were formerly, and are at present, distinguished and illustrious cities, but which of the two should be called the capital ofPhoenicia is a subject of dispute among the inhabitants.Sidon is situated upon a fine naturally-formed harbour on the mainland.
§ 16.2.23 Tyre is wholly an island, built nearly in the same manner asAradus. It is joined to the continent by a mound, whichAlexander raised, when he was besieging it. It has two harbours, one close, the other open, which is called theEgyptian harbour. The houses here, it is said, consist of many stories, of more even than atRome; on the occurrence, therefore, of an earthquake, the city was nearly demolished. It sustained great injury when it was taken by siege byAlexander, but it rose above these misfortunes, and recovered itself both by the skill of the people in the art of navigation, in which thePhoenicians in general have always excelled all nations, and by (the export of) purple-dyed manufactures, theTyrian purple being in the highest estimation. The shellfish from which it is procured is caught near the coast, and theTyrians have in great abundance other requisites for dyeing. The great number of dyeing works renders the city unpleasant as a place of residence, but the superior skill of the people in the practice of this art is the source of its wealth. Their independence was secured to them at a small expense to themselves, not only by the kings ofSyria, but also by the Romans, who confirmed what the former had conceded. They pay extravagant honours toHercules. The great number and magnitude of their colonies and cities are proofs of their maritime skill and power.
Such then are theTyrians.
§ 16.2.24 TheSidonians are said by historians to excel in various kinds of art, as the words ofHomer also imply. Besides, they cultivate science and study astronomy and arithmetic, to which they were led by the application of numbers (in accounts) and night sailing, each of which (branches of knowledge) concerns the merchant and seaman; in the same manner theEgyptians were led to the invention of geometry by the mensuration of ground, which was required in consequence of theNile confounding, by its overflow, the respective boundaries of the country. It is thought that geometry was introduced into Greece fromEgypt, and astronomy and arithmetic fromPhoenicia. At present the best opportunities are afforded in these cities of acquiring a knowledge of these, and of all other branches of philosophy.
If we are to believePoseidonius, the ancient opinion about atoms originated withMochus, a native ofSidon, who lived before theTrojan times. Let us, however, dismiss subjects relating to antiquity. In my time there were distinguished philosophers, natives ofSidon, asBoethus, with whom I studied the philosophy ofAristotle, andDiodotus his brother.Antipater was ofTyre, and a little before my timeApollonius, who published a table of the philosophers of the school ofZeno, and of their writings.
Tyre is distant fromSidon not more than 200 stadia. Between the two is situated a small town, called Ornithopolis, (the city of birds); next a river which empties itself nearTyre into the sea. Next afterTyre is Palaetyrus (ancientTyre), at the distance of 30 stadia.
§ 16.2.25 Then followsPtolemais, a large city, formerly calledAce. It was the place of rendezvous for thePersians in their expeditions againstEgypt. BetweenAce andTyre is a sandy beach, the sand of which is used in making glass. The sand, it is said, is not fused there, but carried toSidon to undergo that process. Some say that theSidonians have, in their own country, the vitrifiable sand; according to others, the sand of every place can be fused. I heard atAlexandria from the glass-workers, that there is inEgypt a kind of vitrifiable earth, without which expensive works in glass of various colours could not be executed, but in other countries other mixtures are required; and atRome, it is reported, there have been many inventions both for producing various colours, and for facilitating the manufacture, as for example in glass wares, where a glass bowl may be purchased for a copper coin, and glass is ordinarily used for drinking.
§ 16.2.26 A phenomenon of the rarest kind is said to have occurred on the shore betweenTyre andPtolemais. The people ofPtolemais had engaged in battle withSarpedon the general, and after a signal defeat were left in this place, when a wave from the sea, like the rising tide, overwhelmed the fugitives; some were carried out to sea and drowned, others perished in hollow places; then again the ebb succeeding, uncovered and displayed to sight the bodies lying in confusion among dead fish.
A similar phenomenon took place at MountCasium inEgypt. The ground, to a considerable distance, after a violent and single shock fell in parts, at once exchanging places; the elevated parts opposed the access of the sea, and parts which had subsided admitted it. Another shock occurred, and the place recovered its ancient position, except that there was an alteration (in the surface of the ground) in some places, and none in others. Perhaps such occurrences are connected with periodical returns the nature of which is unknown to us. This is said to be the case with the rise of the waters of theNile, which exhibits a variety in its effects, but observes (in general) a certain order, which we do not comprehend.
§ 16.2.27 Next toAce is theTower of Strato, with a station for vessels. Between these places isMount Carmel, and cities of which nothing but the names remain, asSycaminopolis, Bucolopolis, Crocodeilopolis, and others of this kind; next is a large forest.
§ 16.2.28 ThenJoppa, where the coast ofEgypt, which at first stretches towards the east, makes a remarkable bend towards the north. In this place, according to some writers,Andromeda was exposed to the sea-monster. It is sufficiently elevated; it is said to command a view ofJerusalem, the capital of theJews, who, when they descended to the sea, used this place as a naval arsenal. But the arsenals of robbers are the haunts of robbers.Carmel, and the forest, belonged to theJews. The district was so populous that the neighbouring villageIamneia, and the settlements around, could furnish forty thousand soldiers.
Thence toCasium, nearPelusium, are little more than 1000 stadia, and 1300 toPelusium itself.
§ 16.2.29 In the interval is Gadaris, which theJews have appropriated to themselves, thenAzotus andAscalon. FromIamneia toAzotus andAscalon are about 200 stadia. The country of theAscalonitae produces excellent onions; the town is small.Antiochus the philosopher, who lived a little before our time, was a native of this place.Philodemus theEpicurean was a native ofGadara, as alsoMeleagrus,Menippus the satirist, andTheodorus the rhetorician, my contemporary.
§ 16.2.30 Next and nearAscalon is the harbour of theGazaei. The city is situated inland at the distance of seven stadia. It was once famous, but was razed byAlexander, and remains uninhabited. There is said to be a passage thence across, of 1260 stadia, to the cityAila (Aelana), situated on the innermost recess of theArabian Gulf. This recess has two branches, one, in the direction ofArabia andGaza, is calledAilanites, from the city upon it; the other is in the direction ofEgypt, towardsHeroopolis, to which fromPelusium is the shortest road (between the two seas). Travelling is performed oncamels, through a desert and sandy country, in the course of whichsnakes are found in great numbers.
§ 16.2.31 Next toGaza isRaphia, where a battle was fought betweenPtolemy the Fourth andAntiochus the Great. ThenRhinocolura, so called from the colonists, whose noses had been mutilated. SomeEthiopian invadedEgypt, and, instead of putting the malefactors to death, cut off their noses, and settled them atRhinocolura, supposing that they would not venture to return to their own country, on account of the disgraceful condition of their faces.
§ 16.2.32 The whole country fromGaza is barren and sandy, and still more so is that district next to it, which contains the lakeSirbonis, lying above it in a direction almost parallel to the sea, and leaving a narrow pass between, as far as what is called theEcregma. The length of the pass is about 200, and the greatest breadth 50 stadia. TheEcregma is filled up with earth. Then follows another continuous tract of the same kind toCasium, and thence toPelusium.
§ 16.2.33 TheCasium is a sandy hill without water, and forms a promontory: the body ofPompey the Great is buried there, and on it is a temple ofZeusCasius. Near this placePompey the Great was betrayed by theEgyptians, and put to death. Next is the road toPelusium, on which is situatedGerrha; and the rampart, as it is called, ofChabrias, and the pits nearPelusium, formed by the overflowing of theNile in places naturally hollow and marshy.
Such is the nature ofPhoenicia.Artemidorus says, that fromOrthosia toPelusium is 3650 stadia, including the winding of the bays, and fromMelaenae or Melania inCilicia toCelenderis, on the confines ofCilicia andSyria, are 1900 stadia; thence to theOrontes 520 stadia, and fromOrontes toOrthosia 1130 stadia.
§ 16.2.34 The western extremities ofJudaea towardsCasius are occupied byIdumaeans, and by the lake [Sirbonis]. TheIdumaeans areNabataeans. When driven from their country by sedition, they passed over to theJews, and adopted their customs. The greater part of the country along the coast toJerusalem is occupied by the LakeSirbonis, and by the tract contiguous to it; forJerusalem is near the sea, which, as we have said, may be seen from the arsenal ofJoppa. These districts (ofJerusalem andJoppa) lie towards the north; they are inhabited generally, and each place in particular, by mixed tribes ofEgyptians,Arabians, andPhoenicians. Of this description are the inhabitants ofGalilee, of the plain ofJericho, and of the territories ofPhiladelphia andSamaria, surnamedSebaste byHerod; but although there is such a mixture of inhabitants, the report most credited, [one] among many things believed respecting thetemple [and the inhabitants] ofJerusalem, is, that theEgyptians were the ancestors of the presentJews.
§ 16.2.35 AnEgyptian priest namedMoses, who possessed a portion of the country called the Lower [Egypt] * * * *, being dissatisfied with the established institutions there, left it and came toJudaea with a large body of people who worshipped the Divinity. He declared and taught that theEgyptians and Africans entertained erroneous sentiments, in representing the Divinity under the likeness of wild beasts andcattle of the field; that the Greeks also were in error in making images of their gods after the human form. For God [said he] may be this one thing which encompasses us all, land and sea, which we call heaven, or the universe, or the nature of things. Who then of any understanding would venture to form an image of this Deity, resembling anything with which we are conversant? on the contrary, we ought not to carve any images, but to set apart some sacred ground and a shrine worthy of the Deity, and to worship Him without any similitude. He taught that those who made fortunate dreams were to be permitted to sleep in thetemple, where they might dream both for themselves and others; that those who practised temperance and justice, and none else, might expect good, or some gift or sign from the God, from time to time.
§ 16.2.36 By such doctrineMoses persuaded a large body of right-minded persons to accompany him to the place whereJerusalem now stands. He easily obtained possession of it, as the spot was not such as to excite jealousy, nor for which there could be any fierce contention; for it is rocky, and, although well supplied with water, it is surrounded by a barren and waterless territory. The space within [the city] is 60 stadia [in circumference], with rock underneath the surface.
Instead of arms, he taught that their defence was in their sacred things and the Divinity, for whom he was desirous of finding a settled place, promising to the people to deliver such a kind of worship and religion as should not burthen those who adopted it with great expense, nor molest them with [so-called] divine possessions, nor other absurd practices.
Moses thus obtained their good opinion, and established no ordinary kind of government. All the nations around willingly united themselves to him, allured by his discourses and promises.
§ 16.2.37 His successors continued for some time to observe the same conduct, doing justly, and worshipping God with sincerity. Afterwards superstitious persons were appointed to the priesthood, and then tyrants. From superstition arose abstinence from flesh, from the eating of which it is now the custom to refrain, circumcision, excision, and other practices which the people observe. The tyrannical government produced robbery; for the rebels plundered both their own and the neighbouring countries. Those also who shared in the government seized upon the property of others, and ravaged a large part ofSyria and ofPhoenicia.
Respect, however, was paid to the acropolis; it was not abhorred as the seat of tyranny, but honoured and venerated as a temple.
§ 16.2.38 This is according to nature, and common both to Greeks and barbarians. For, as members of a civil community, they live according to a common law; otherwise it would be impossible for the mass to execute any one thing in concert (in which consists a civil state), or to live in a social state at all. Law is twofold, divine and human. The ancients regarded and respected divine, in preference to human, law; in those times, therefore, the number of persons was very great who consulted oracles, and, being desirous of obtaining the advice ofJupiter, hurried toDodona, "to hear the answer ofJove from the lofty oak."
The parent went toDelphi, "anxious to learn whether the child which had been exposed (to die) was still living;"
while the child itself was gone to the temple ofApollo, with the hope of discovering its parents.
"AndMinos among theCretans, the king who in the ninth year enjoyed converse with GreatJupiter, every nine years, asPlato says, ascended to the cave ofJupiter, received ordinances from him, and conveyed them to men.Lycurgus, his imitator, acted in a similar manner; for he was often accustomed, as it seemed, to leave his own country to inquire of thePythian goddess what ordinances he was to promulgate to theLacedaemonians.
§ 16.2.39 What truth there may be in these things I cannot say; they have at least been regarded and believed as true by mankind. Hence prophets received so much honour as to be thought worthy even of thrones, because they were supposed to communicate ordinances and precepts from the gods, both during their lifetime and after their death; as for exampleTeiresias, "to whom aloneProserpine gave wisdom and understanding after death: the others flit about as shadows."
Such wereAmphiaraus,Trophonius,Orpheus, andMusaeus: in former times there wasZamolxis, aPythagorean, who was accounted a god among theGetae; and in our time,Decaeneus, the diviner ofByrebistas. Among theBosporani, there was Achaicarus; among theIndians, were theGymnosophists; among thePersians, theMagi and Necyomanteis, and besides these the Lecanomanteis and Hydromanteis; among theAssyrians, were theChaldaeans; and among the Romans, theTyrrhenian diviners of dreams.
Such wasMoses and his successors; their beginning was good, but they degenerated.
§ 16.2.40 WhenJudaea openly became subject to a tyrannical government, the first person who exchanged the title of priest for that of king wasAlexander. His sons wereHyrcanus andAristobulus. While they were disputing the succession to the kingdom,Pompey came upon them by surprise, deprived them of their power, and destroyed their fortresses, first takingJerusalem itself by storm. It was a stronghold, situated on a rock, well fortified and well supplied with water within, but externally entirely parched with drought. A ditch was cut in the rock, 60 feet in depth, and in width 250 feet. On the wall of thetemple were built towers, constructed of the materials procured when the ditch was excavated. The city was taken, it is said, by waiting for the day of fast, on which theJews were in the habit of abstaining from all work.Pompey [availing himself of this], filled up the ditch, and threw bridges over it. He gave orders to raze all the walls, and he destroyed, as far as was in his power, the haunts of the robbers and the treasure-holds of the tyrants. Two of these forts,Thrax and Taurus, were situated in the passes leading toJericho. Others wereAlexandrium, Hyrcanium,Machaerus, Lysias, and those aboutPhiladelphia, andScythopolis nearGalilee.
§ 16.2.41 Jericho is a plain encompassed by a mountainous district, which slopes towards it somewhat in the manner of a theatre. Here is thePhoenicon (or palm plantation), which contains various other trees of the cultivated kind, and producing excellent fruit; but its chief production is the palm tree. It is 100 stadia in length; the whole is watered with streams, and filled with dwellings. Here also is a palace and the garden of the balsamum. The latter is a shrub with an aromatic smell, resembling the cytisus and the terminthus. Incisions are made in the bark, and vessels are placed beneath to receive the sap, which is like oily milk. After it is collected in vessels, it becomes solid. It is an excellent remedy for headache, incipient suffusion of the eyes, and dimness of sight. It bears therefore a high price, especially as it is produced in no other place. This is the case also with thePhoenicon, which alone contains the caryotes palm, if we except theBabylonian plain, and the country above it towards the east: a large revenue is derived from the palms and balsamum; xylobalsamum is also used as a perfume.
§ 16.2.42 The LakeSirbonis is of great extent. Some say that it is 1000 stadia in circumference. It stretches along the coast, to the distance of a little more than 200 stadia. It is deep, and the water is exceedingly heavy, so that no person can dive into it; if any one wades into it up to the waist, and attempts to move forward, he is immediately lifted out of the water It abounds with asphaltus, which rises, not however at any regular seasons, in bubbles, like boiling water, from the middle of the deepest part. The surface is convex, and presents the appearance of a hillock. Together with the asphaltus, there ascends a great quantity of sooty vapour, not perceptible to the eye, which tarnishes copper, silver, and everything bright — even gold. The neighbouring people know by the tarnishing of their vessels that the asphaltus is beginning to rise, and they prepare to collect it by means of rafts composed of reeds. The asphaltus is a clod of earth, liquefied by heat; the air forces it to the surface, where it spreads itself. It is again changed into so firm and solid a mass by cold water, such as the water of the lake, that it requires cutting or chopping (for use). It floats upon the water, which, as I have described, does not admit of diving or immersion, but lifts up the person who goes into it. Those who go on rafts for the asphaltus cut it in pieces, and take away as much as they are able to carry.
§ 16.2.43 Such are the phenomena. ButPosidonius says, that the people being addicted to magic, and practising incantations, (by these means) consolidate the asphaltus, pouring upon it urine and other fetid fluids, and then cut it into pieces. (Incantations cannot be the cause), but perhaps urine may have some peculiar power (in effecting the consolidation) in the same manner that chrysocolla is formed in the bladders of persons who labour under the disease of the stone, and in the urine of children.
It is natural for these phenomena to take place in the middle of the lake, because the source of the fire is in the centre, and the greater part of the asphaltus comes from thence. The bubbling up, however, of the asphaltus is irregular, because the motion of fire, like that of many other vapours, has no order perceptible to observers. There are also phenomena of this kind atApollonia inEpirus.
§ 16.2.44 Many other proofs are produced to show that this country is full of fire. Near Moasada are to be seen rugged rocks, bearing the marks of fire; fissures in many places; a soil like ashes; pitch falling in drops from the rocks; rivers boiling up, and emitting a fetid odour to a great distance; dwellings in every direction overthrown; whence we are inclined to believe the common tradition of the natives, that thirteen cities once existed there, the capital of which was Sodom, but that a circuit of about 60 stadia around it escaped uninjured; shocks of earthquakes, however, eruptions of flames and hot springs, containing asphaltus and sulphur, caused the lake to burst its bounds, and the rocks took fire; some of the cities were swallowed up, others were abandoned by such of the inhabitants as were able to make their escape.
ButEratosthenes asserts, on the contrary, that the country was once a lake, and that the greater part of it was uncovered by the water discharging itself through a breach, as was the case inThessaly.
§ 16.2.45 In the Gadaris, also, there is a lake of noxious water. If beasts drink it, they lose their hair, hoofs, and horns. At the place calledTaricheae, the lake supplies the best fish for curing. On its banks grow trees which bear a fruit like the apple. TheEgyptians use the asphaltus for embalming the bodies of the dead.
§ 16.2.46 Pompey curtailed the territory which had been forcibly appropriated by theJews, and assigned toHyrcanus the priesthood. Some time afterwards,Herod, of the same family, and a native of the country, having surreptitiously obtained the priesthood, distinguished himself so much above his predecessors, particularly in his intercourse, both civil and political, with the Romans, that he received the title and authority of king, first fromAntony, and afterwards fromAugustus Caesar. He put to death some of his sons, on the pretext of their having conspired against him; other sons he left at his death, to succeed him, and assigned to each, portions of his kingdom.Caesar bestowed upon the sons also ofHerod marks of honour, on his sisterSalome, and on her daughterBerenice. The sons were unfortunate, and were publicly accused. One of them died in exile among theGalataeAllobroges, whose country was assigned for his abode. The others, by great interest and solicitation, but with difficulty, obtained leave to return to their own country, each with his tetrarchy restored to him.
§ 16.3.1 ABOVEJudaea andCoele-Syria, as far asBabylonia and the river tract, along the banks of theEuphrates towards the south, lies the whole ofArabia, except theScenitae inMesopotamia. We have already spoken ofMesopotamia, and of the nations that inhabit it.
The parts on the other (the eastern) side of theEuphrates, towards its mouth, are occupied byBabylonians and the nation of theChaldaeans. We have spoken of these people also.
Of the rest of the country which follows afterMesopotamia, and extends as far asCoele-Syria, the part approaching the river, as well as [a part of]Mesopotamia, are occupied byArabianScenitae, who are divided into small sovereignties, and inhabit tracts which are barren from want of water. They do not till the land at all, or only to a small extent, but they keep herds ofcattle of all kinds, particularly ofcamels. Above these is a great desert; but the parts lying still more to the south are occupied by the nations inhabitingArabia Felix, as it is called. The northern side of this tract is formed by the above-mentioned desert, the eastern by thePersian, the western by theArabian Gulf, and the southern by the great sea lying outside of both the gulfs, the whole of which is called theErythraean Sea.
§ 16.3.2 ThePersian Gulf has the name also of the Sea ofPersia.Eratosthenes speaks of it in this manner: "They say that the mouth is so narrow, that from Harmozi, the promontory ofCarmania, may be seen the promontory at Mace, inArabia. From the mouth, the coast on the right hand is circular, and at first inclines a little fromCarmania towards the east, then to the north, and afterwards to the west as far asTeredon and the mouth of theEuphrates. In an extent of about 10,000 stadia, it comprises the coast of theCarmanians,Persians, and Susians, and in part of theBabylonians. (Of these we ourselves have before spoken.) Hence directly as far as the mouth are 10,000 stadia more, according, it is said, to the computation ofAndrosthenes ofThasos, who not only had accompaniedNearchus, but had also alone sailed along the seacoast ofArabia. It is hence evident that this sea is little inferior in size to theEuxine.
"He says thatAndrosthenes, who had navigated the gulf with a fleet, relates, that in sailing fromTeredon with the continent on the right hand, an islandIcaros is met with, lying in front, which contained a temple sacred toApollo, and an oracle of [Diana]Tauropolus.
§ 16.3.3 "Having coasted the shore ofArabia to the distance of 2400 stadia, there lies, in a deep gulf, a city of the name ofGerrha, belonging toChaldaean exiles fromBabylon, who inhabit the district in which salt is found, and who have houses constructed of salt: as scales of salt separated by the burning heat of the sun are continually falling off, the houses are sprinkled with water, and the walls are thus kept firm together. The city is distant 200 stadia from the sea. The merchants ofGerrha generally carry theArabian merchandise and aromatics by land; butAristobulus says, on the contrary, that they frequently travel intoBabylonia on rafts, and thence sail up theEuphrates toThapsacus with their cargoes, but afterwards carry them by land to all parts of the country.
§ 16.3.4 "On sailing further, there are other islands,Tyre andAradus, which have temples resembling those of thePhoenicians. The inhabitants of these islands (if we are to believe them) say that the islands and cities bearing the same name as those of thePhoenicians are their own colonies. These islands are distant fromTeredon ten days' sail, and from the promontory at the mouth of the gulf atMacae one day's sail.
§ 16.3.5 "Nearchus andOrthagoras relate, that an islandOgyris lies to the south, in the open sea, at the distance of 2000 stadia fromCarmania. In this island is shown the sepulchre ofErythras, a large mound, planted with wild palms. He was king of the country, and the sea received its name from him. It is said thatMithropastes, the son ofArsites, satrap ofPhrygia, pointed out these things to them.Mithropastes was banished byDarius, and resided in this island; he joined himself to those who had come down to thePersian Gulf, and hoped through their means to have an opportunity of returning to his own country.
§ 16.3.6 'Along the whole coast of theRed Sea, in the deep part of the water grow trees resembling the laurel and the olive. When the tide ebbs, the whole trees are visible above the water, and at the full tide they are sometimes entirely covered. This is the more singular because the coast inland has no trees.'
This is the description given byEratosthenes of thePersian sea, which forms, as we have said, the eastern side ofArabia Felix.
§ 16.3.7 Nearchus says, that they were met byMithropastes, in company withMazenes, who was governor of one of the islands, called Doracta (Oaracta?) in thePersian Gulf; thatMithropastes, after his retreat fromOgyris, took refuge there, and was hospitably received; that he had an interview withMazenes, for the purpose of being recommended to theMacedonians, in the fleet of whichMazenes was the guide.
Nearchus also mentions an island, met with at the recommencement of the voyage along the coast ofPersia, where are found pearls in large quantities and of great value; in other islands there are transparent and brilliant pebbles; in the islands in front of theEuphrates there are trees which send forth the odour of frankincense, and from their roots, when bruised, a (perfumed) juice flows out; the crabs and sea hedgehogs are of vast size, which is common in all the exterior seas, some being larger thanMacedonian hats; others of the capacity of two cotyli; he says also that he had seen driven on shore a whale fifty cubits in length.
§ 16.4.1 ARABIA commences on the side ofBabylonia with Maecene. In front of this district, on one side lies the desert of theArabians, on the other are the marshes opposite to theChaldaeans, formed by the overflowing of theEuphrates, and in another direction is the Sea ofPersia. This country has an unhealthy and cloudy atmosphere; it is subject to showers, and also to scorching heat; still its products are excellent. The vine grows in the marshes; as much earth as the plant may require is laid upon hurdles of reeds; the hurdle is frequently carried away by the water, and is then forced back again by poles to its proper situation.
§ 16.4.2 I return to the opinions ofEratosthenes, which he next delivers respectingArabia. He is speaking of the northern and desert part, lying betweenArabia Felix,Coele-Syria, andJudaea, to the recess of theArabian Gulf.
FromHeroopolis, situated in that recess of theArabian Gulf which is on the side of theNile, toBabylon, towardsPetra of theNabataei, are 5600 stadia. The whole tract lies in the direction of the summer solstice (i. e. east and west), and passes through the adjacentArabian tribes, namelyNabataei, Chaulotaei, and Agraei. Above these people isArabia Felix, stretching out 12,000 stadia towards the south to theAtlantic Sea.
The first people, next after the Syrians andJews, who occupy this country are husbandmen. These people are succeeded by a barren and sandy tract, producing a few palms, the acanthus, and tamarisk; water is obtained by digging [wells] as inGedrosia. It is inhabited byArabianScenitae, who breedcamels. The extreme parts towards the south, and opposite toEthiopia, are watered by summer showers, and are sowed twice, like the land inIndia. Its rivers are exhausted in watering plains, and by running into lakes. The general fertility of the country is very great; among other products, there is in particular an abundant supply of honey; excepthorses, there are numerous herds of animals, mules (asses?), andswine; birds also of every kind, except geese and the gallinaceous tribe.
Four of the most populous nations inhabit the extremity of the above-mentioned country; namely, theMinaei the part towards theRed Sea, whose largest city isCarna or Carnana. Next to these are theSabaeans, whose chief city isMariaba. The third nation are the Cattabaneis, extending to the straits and the passage across theArabian Gulf. Their royal seat is called Tamna. TheChatramotitae are the furthest of these nations towards the east. Their city is Sabata.
§ 16.4.3 All these cities are governed by one monarch, and are flourishing. They are adorned with beautiful temples and palaces. Their houses, in the mode of binding the timbers together, are like those inEgypt. The four countries comprise a greater territory than the Delta ofEgypt.
The son does not succeed the father in the throne, but the son who is born in a family of the nobles first after the accession of the king. As soon as any one is invested with the government, the pregnant wives of the nobles are registered, and guardians are appointed to watch which of them is first delivered of a son. The custom is to adopt and educate the child in a princely manner as the future successor to the throne.
§ 16.4.4 Cattabania produces frankincense, and Chatramotitis myrrh; these and other aromatics are the medium of exchange with the merchants. Merchants arrive in seventy days atMinaea fromAelana.Aelana is a city on the other recess of theArabian Gulf, which is calledAelanites, opposite toGaza, as we have before described it. TheGerrhaei arrive in Chatramotitis in forty days.
The part of theArabian Gulf along the side ofArabia, if we reckon from the recess of theAelanitic bay, is, according to the accounts ofAlexander andAnaxicrates, 14,000 stadia in extent; but this computation is too great. The part opposite toTroglodytica, which is on the right hand of those who are sailing fromHeroopolis toPtolemais, to the country where elephants are taken, extends 9000 stadia to the south, and inclines a little towards the east. Thence to the straits are about 4500 stadia, in a direction more towards the east. The straits atEthiopia are formed by a promontory calledDeire. There is a small town upon it of the same name. TheIchthyophagi inhabit this country. Here it is said is a pillar ofSesostris theEgyptian, on which is inscribed, in hieroglyphics, an account of his passage (across theArabian Gulf). For he appears to have subdued firstEthiopia andTroglodytica, and afterwards to have passed over intoArabia. He then overran the whole ofAsia. Hence in many places there are dykes called the dykes ofSesostris, and temples built in honour ofEgyptian deities.
The straits atDeire are contracted to the width of 60 stadia; not indeed that these are now called the Straits, for ships proceed to a further distance, and find a passage of about 200 stadia between the two continents; six islands contiguous to one another leave a very narrow passage through them for vessels, by filling up the interval between the continents. Through these goods are transported from one continent to the other on rafts; it is this passage which is called the Straits. After these islands, the subsequent navigation is among bays along the Myrrh country, in the direction of south and east, as far as the Cinnamon country, a distance of about 5000 stadia; beyond this district no one to this time, it is said, has penetrated. There are not many cities upon the coast, but in the interior they are numerous and well inhabited. Such is the account ofArabia given byEratosthenes. We must add what is related also by other writers.
§ 16.4.5 Artemidorus says, that the promontory ofArabia, opposite toDeire, is calledAcila, and that the persons who live nearDeire deprive themselves of the prepuce.
In sailing fromHeroopolis alongTroglodytica, a city is met with calledPhilotera, after the sister of the secondPtolemy; it was founded bySatyrus, who was sent to explore the hunting-ground for the elephants, andTroglodytica itself. Next to this is another city,Arsinoe; and next to this, springs of hot water, which are salt and bitter; they are precipitated from a high rock, and discharge themselves into the sea. There is in a plain near (these springs) a mountain, which is of a red colour like minium. Next isMyus Hormus, which is also called Aphrodites Hormus; it is a large harbour with an oblique entrance. In front are three islands; two are covered with olive trees, and' one (the third) is less shaded with trees, and abounds with guinea-fowls. Then follows Acathartus (or Foul Bay), which, likeMyus Hormus, is in the latitude of theThebais. The bay is really foul, for it is very dangerous from rocks (some of which are covered by the sea, others rise to the surface), as also from almost constant and furious tempests. At the bottom of the bay is situated the cityBerenice.
§ 16.4.6 After the bay is the islandOphiodes, so called from the accidental circumstance [of its having once been infested withserpents]. It was cleared of theserpents by the king, on account of the destruction occasioned by those noxious animals to the persons who frequented the island, and on account of the topazes found there. The topaz is a transparent stone, sparkling with a golden lustre, which however is not easy to be distinguished in the day-time, on account of the brightness of the surrounding light, but at night the stones are visible to those who collect them. The collectors place a vessel over the spot [where the topazes are seen] as a mark, and dig them up in the day. A body of men was appointed and maintained by the kings ofEgypt to guard the place where these stones were found, and to superintend the collection of them.
§ 16.4.7 Next after this island follow many tribes ofIchthyophagi and of Nomads; then succeeds the harbour of the goddessSoteira (the Preserver), which had its name from the circumstance of the escape and preservation of some masters [of vessels] from great dangers by sea.
After this the coast and the gulf seem to undergo a great change: for the voyage along the coast is no longer among rocks, and approaches almost close toArabia; the sea is so shallow as to be scarcely of the depth of two orguiae, and has the appearance of a meadow, in consequence of the sea-weeds, which abound in the passage, being visible through and under the water. Even trees here grow from under the water, and the sea abounds with sea-dogs.
Next are two mountains, theTauri (or theBulls), presenting at a distance a resemblance to these animals. Then follows another mountain, on which is a temple ofIsis, built bySesostris; then an island planted with olive trees, and at times overflowed. This is followed by the cityPtolemais, near the hunting-grounds of the elephants, founded byEumedes, who was sent byPhiladelphus to the hunting-ground. He enclosed, without the knowledge of the inhabitants, a kind of peninsula with a ditch and wall, and by his courteous address gained over those who were inclined to obstruct the work, and instead of enemies made them his friends.
§ 16.4.8 In the intervening space, a branch of the riverAstaboras discharges itself. It has its source in a lake, and empties part of its waters [into the bay], but the larger portion it contributes to theNile. Then follow six islands, calledLatomiae, after these the Sabaitic mouth, as it is called, and in the inland parts a fortress built bySuchus. Then a lake calledElaea, and the island ofStrato; nextSaba a port, and a hunting-ground for elephants of the same name. The country deep in the interior is called Tenessis. It is occupied by thoseEgyptians who took refuge from the government ofPsammitichus. They are surnamedSembritae, as being strangers. They are governed by a queen, to whom alsoMeroe, an island in theNile near these places, is subject. Above this, at no great distance, is another island in the river, a settlement occupied by the same fugitives. FromMeroe to this sea is a journey of fifteen days for an active person.
NearMeroe is the confluence of theAstaboras, theAstapus, and of theAstasobas with theNile.
§ 16.4.9 On the banks of these rivers live theRhizophagi (or root-eaters) and Heleii (or marsh-men). They have their name from digging roots in the adjacent marsh, bruising them with stones, and forming them into cakes, which they dry in the sun for food. These countries are the haunts oflions. The wild beasts are driven out of these places, at the time of the rising of thedog-star, by large gnats.
Near these people live theSpermophagi (or seed-eaters), who, when seeds of plants fail, subsist upon seeds of trees, which they prepare in the same manner as theRhizophagi prepare their roots.
Next to Elaea are the watch-towers ofDemetrius, and the altars ofConon. In the interiorIndian reeds grow in abundance. The country there is called the country ofCoracius.
Far in the interior was a place called Endera, inhabited by a naked tribe, who use bows and reed arrows, the points of which are hardened in the fire. They generally shoot the animals from trees, sometimes from the ground. They have numerous herds of wildcattle among them, on the flesh of which they subsist, and on that of other wild animals. When they have taken nothing in the chase, they dress dried skins upon hot coals, and are satisfied with food of this kind. It is their custom to propose trials of skill in archery for those who have not attained manhood.
Next to the altars ofConon is the port of Melinus, and above it is a fortress called that ofCoraus and the chase ofCoraus, also another fortress and more hunting-grounds. Then follows the harbour ofAntiphilus, and above this a tribe, theCreophagi, deprived of the prepuce, and the women are excised after theJewish custom.
§ 16.4.10 Further still towards the south are theCynamolgi, called by the nativesAgrii, with long hair and long beards, who keep a breed of very largedogs for hunting theIndiancattle which come into their country from the neighbouring district, driven thither either by wild beasts or by scarcity of pasturage. The time of their incursion is from the summer solstice to the middle of winter.
Next to the harbour ofAntiphilus is a port called the Grove of theColobi (or the Mutilated), the cityBerenice of Sabae, and Sabae a considerable city; then the grove ofEumenes.
Above is the city Darada, and a hunting-ground for elephants, called 'At the Well.' The district is inhabited by theElephantophagi (or Elephant-eaters), who are occupied in hunting them. When they descry from the trees a herd of elephants directing their course through the forest, they do not [then] attack, but they approach by stealth and hamstring the hindmost stragglers from the herd. Some kill them with bows and arrows, the latter being dipped in the gall ofserpents. The shooting with the bow is performed by three men, two, advancing in front, hold the bow, and one draws the string. Others remark the trees against which the elephant is accustomed to rest, and, approaching on the opposite side, cut the trunk of the tree low down. When the animal comes and leans against it, the tree and the elephant fall down together. The elephant is unable to rise, because its legs are formed of one piece of bone which is inflexible; the hunters leap down from the trees, kill it, and cut it in pieces. The Nomades call the huntersAcatharti, or impure.
§ 16.4.11 Above this nation is situated a small tribe theStruthophagi (or Bird-eaters), in whose country are birds of the size of deer, which are unable to fly, but run with the swiftness of the ostrich. Some hunt them with bows and arrows, others covered with the skins of birds. They hide the right hand in the neck of the skin, and move it as the birds move their necks. With the left hand they scatter grain from a bag suspended to the side; they thus entice the birds, till they drive them into pits, where the hunters despatch them with cudgels. The skins are used both as clothes and as coverings for beds. TheEthiopians called Simi are at war with these people, and use as weapons the horns of antelopes.
§ 16.4.12 Bordering on this people is a nation blacker in complexion than the others, shorter in stature, and very short-lived. They rarely live beyond forty years; for the flesh of their bodies is eaten up with worms. Their food consists of locusts, which the south-west and west winds, when they blow violently in the spring-time, drive in bodies into the country. The inhabitants catch them by throwing into the ravines materials which cause a great deal of smoke, and light them gently. The locusts, as they fly across the smoke, are blinded and fall down. They are pounded with salt, made into cakes, and eaten as food.
Above these people is situated a desert tract with extensive pastures. It was abandoned in consequence of the multitudes of scorpions and tarantulas, called tetragnathi (or fourjawed), which formerly abounded to so great a degree as to occasion a complete desertion of the place long since by its inhabitants.
§ 16.4.13 Next to the harbour ofEumenes, as far asDeire and the straits opposite the six islands, live theIchthyophagi, Creophagi, and Colobi, who extend into the interior.
Many hunting-grounds for elephants, and obscure cities and islands, lie in front of the coast.
The greater part are Nomades; husbandmen are few in number. In the country occupied by some of these nations styrax grows in large quantity. TheIcthyophagi, on the ebbing of the tide, collect fish, which they cast upon the rocks and dry in the sun. When they have well broiled them, the bones are piled in heaps, and the flesh trodden with the feet is made into cakes, which are again exposed to the sun and used as food. In bad weather, when fish cannot be procured, the bones of which they have made heaps are pounded, made into cakes and eaten, but they suck the fresh bones. Some also live upon shell-fish, when they are fattened, which is done by throwing them into holes and standing pools of the sea, where they are supplied with small fish, and used as food when other fish are scarce. They have various kinds of places for preserving and feeding fish, from whence they derive their supply.
Some of the inhabitants of that part of the coast which is without water go inland every five days, accompanied by all their families, with songs and rejoicings, to the watering-places, where, throwing themselves on their faces, they drink as beasts until their stomachs are distended like a drum. They then return again to the sea-coast. They dwell in caves or cabins, with roofs consisting of beams and rafters made of the bones and spines of whales, and covered with branches of the olive tree.
§ 16.4.14 TheChelonophagi (or Turtle-eaters) live under the cover of shells (of turtles), which are large enough to be used as boats. Some make of the sea-weed, which is thrown up in large quantities, lofty and hill-like heaps, which are hollowed out, and underneath which they live. They cast out the dead, which are carried away by the tide, as food for fish.
There are three islands which follow in succession, the island of Tortoises, the island of Seals, and the island of Hawks. Along the whole coast there are plantations of palm trees, olive trees, and laurels, not only within, but in a great part also without the straits.
There is also an island [called the island] ofPhilip, opposite to it inland is situated the hunting-ground for elephants, called the chase ofPythangelus; then followsArsinoe, a city with a harbour; after these places isDeire, and beyond them is a hunting-ground for elephants.
FromDeire, the next country is that which bears aromatic plants. The first produces myrrh, and belongs to theIcthyophagi and theCreophagi. It bears also the persea, peach orEgyptian almond, and theEgyptian fig. Beyond is Licha, a hunting-ground for elephants. There are also in many places standing pools of rain-water. When these are dried up, the elephants, with their trunks and tusks, dig holes and find water.
On this coast there are two very large lakes extending as far as the promontoryPytholaus. One of them contains salt water, and is called a sea; the other, fresh water, and is the haunt of hippopotami and crocodiles. On the margin grows the papyrus. The ibis is seen in the neighbourhood of this place. The people who live near the promontory ofPytholaus (and beginning from this place) do not undergo any mutilation in any part of their body. Next is the country which produces frankincense; it has a promontory and a temple with a grove of poplars. In the inland parts is a tract along the banks of a river bearing the name ofIsis, and another that ofNilus, both of which produce myrrh and frankincense. Also a lagoon filled with water from the mountains; next the watch-post of theLion, and the port ofPythangelus. The next tract bears the false cassia. There are many tracts in succession on the sides of rivers on which frankincense grows, and rivers extending to the cinnamon country. The river which bounds this tract produces (phlous) rushes in great abundance. Then follows another river, and the port ofDaphnus, and a valley calledApollo's, which bears, besides frankincense, myrrh and cinnamon. The latter is more abundant in places far in the interior.
Next is the mountainElephas, a mountain projecting into the sea, and a creek; then follows the large harbour of Psygmus, a watering-place called that ofCynocephali, and the last promontory of this coast, Notu-ceras (or the Southern Horn). After doubling this cape towards the south, we have no more descriptions, he says, of harbours or places, because nothing is known of the sea-coast beyond this point.
§ 16.4.15 Along the coast there are both pillars and altars ofPytholaus,Lichas,Pythangelus,Leon, and Charimortus, that is, along the known coast fromDeire as far as Notu-ceras; but the distance is not determined. The country abounds with elephants andlions called myrmeces (ants). They have their genital organs reversed. Their skin is of a golden colour, but they are more bare than thelions ofArabia.
It produces also leopards of great strength and courage, and the rhinoceros. The rhinoceros is little inferior to the elephant; not, according toArtemidorus, in length to the crest, although he says he had seen one atAlexandreia, but it is somewhat about [ * * * less] in height, judging at least from the one I saw. Nor is the colour the pale yellow of boxwood, but like that of the elephant. It was of the size of abull. Its shape approached very nearly to that of the wildboar, and particularly the forehead; except the front, which is furnished with a hooked horn, harder than any bone. It uses it as a weapon, like the wildboar its tusks. It has also two hard welts, like folds ofserpents, encircling the body from the chine to the belly, one on the withers, the other on the loins. This description is taken from one which I myself saw.Artemidorus adds to his account of this animal, that it is peculiarly inclined to dispute with the elephant for the place of pasture ; thrusting its forehead under the belly [of the elephant] and ripping it up, unless prevented by the trunk and tusks of his adversary.
§ 16.4.16 Cameleopards are bred in these parts, but they do not in any respect resemble leopards, for their variegated skin is more like the streaked and spotted skin of fallow deer. The hinder quarters are so very much lower than the fore quarters, that it seems as if the animal sat upon its rump, which is the height of anox; the fore legs are as long as those of thecamel. The neck rises high and straight up, but the head greatly exceeds in height that of thecamel. From this want of proportion, the speed of the animal is not so great, I think, as it is described byArtemidorus, according to whom it is not to be surpassed. It is not however a wild animal, but rather like a domesticated beast; for it shows no signs of a savage disposition.
This country, continuesArtemidorus, produces also sphinxes, cynocephali, and cebi, which have the face of alion, and the rest of the body like that of a panther ; they are as large as deer. There are wildbulls also, which are carnivorous, and greatly exceed ours in size and swiftness. They are of a red colour. The crocuttas is, according to this author, the mixed progeny of awolf and adog. WhatMetrodorus theScepsian relates, in his book 'on Custom,' is like fable, and is to be disregarded.
Artemidorus mentionsserpents also of thirty cubits in length, which can master elephants andbulls: in this he does not exaggerate. But theIndian and Africanserpents are of a more fabulous size, and are said to have grass growing on their backs.
§ 16.4.17 The mode of life among theTroglodytae is nomadic. Each tribe is governed by tyrants. Their wives and children are common, except those of the tyrants. The offence of corrupting the wife of a tyrant is punished with the fine of asheep.
The women carefully paint themselves with antimony. They wear about their necks shells, as a protection against fascination by witchcraft. In their quarrels, which are for pastures, they first push away each other with their hands, they then use stones, or, if wounds are inflicted, arrows and daggers. The women put an end to these disputes, by going into the midst of the combatants and using prayers and entreaties.
Their food consists of flesh and bones pounded together, wrapped up in skins and then baked, or prepared after many other methods by the cooks, who are calledAcatharti, or impure. In this way they eat not only the flesh, but the bones and skins also.
They use (as an ointment for the body ?) a mixture of blood and milk ; the drink of the people in general is an infusion of the paliurus (buckthorn); that of the tyrants is mead; the honey being expressed from some kind of flower.
Their winter sets in when theEtesian winds begin to blow (for they have rain), and the remaining season is summer.
They go naked, or wear skins only, and carry clubs. They deprive themselves of the prepuce, but some are circumcised likeEgyptians. TheEthiopianMegabari have their clubs armed with iron knobs. They use spears and shields which are covered with raw hides. The otherEthiopians use bows and lances. Some of theTroglodytae, when they bury their dead, bind the body from the neck to the legs with twigs of the buckthorn. They then immediately throw stones over the body, at the same time laughing and rejoicing, until they have covered the face. They then place over it a ram's horn, and go away.
They travel by night; the malecattle have bells fastened to them, in order to drive away wild beasts with the sound. They use torches also and arrows in repelling them. They watch during the night, on account of their flocks, and sing some peculiar song around their fires.
§ 16.4.18 Having given this account of theTroglodytae and of the neighbouringEthiopians,Artemidorus returns to theArabians. Beginning from Poseidium, he first describes those who border upon theArabian Gulf, and are opposite to theTroglodytae. He says that Poseidium is situated within the bay of [Heroopolis], and that contiguous to Poseidium is a grove of palm trees, well supplied with water, which is highly valued, because all the district around is burnt up and is without water or shade. But there the fertility of the palm is prodigious. A man and a woman are appointed by hereditary right to the guardianship of the grove. They wear skins, and live on dates. They sleep in huts built on trees, the place being infested with multitudes of wild beasts.
Next is the island of Phocae (Seals), which has its name from those animals, which abound there. Near it is a promontory, which extends towardsPetra, of theArabians calledNabataei, and to the country ofPalestine, to this [island] theMinaei,Gerrhaei, and all the neighbouring nations repair with loads of aromatics.
Next is another tract of sea-coast, formerly called the coast of theMaranitae, some of whom were husbandmen, othersScenitae; but at present it is occupied by Garindaei, who destroyed the former possessors by treachery. They attacked those who were assembled to celebrate some quinquennial festival, and put them to death; they then attacked and exterminated the rest of the tribe.
Next is theAelanitic Gulf andNabataea, a country well peopled, and abounding incattle. The islands which lie near, and opposite, are inhabited by people who formerly lived without molesting others, but latterly carried on apiratical warfare in rafts against vessels on their way fromEgypt. But they suffered reprisals, when an armament was sent out against them, which devastated their country.
Next is a plain, well wooded and well supplied with water; it abounds withcattle of all kinds, and, among other animals, mules, wildcamels, harts, and hinds;lions also, leopards, andwolves are frequently to be found. In front lies an island calledDia. Then follows a bay of about 500 stadia in extent, closed in by mountains, the entrance into which is of difficult access. About it live people who are hunters of wild animals.
Next are three desert islands, abounding with olive trees, not like those in our own country, but an indigenous kind, which we callEthiopic olives, the tears (or gum) of which have a medicinal virtue.
Then follows a stony beach, which is succeeded by a rugged coast, not easily navigated by vessels, extending about 1000 stadia. It has few harbours and anchorages, for a rugged and lofty mountain stretches parallel to it; then the parts at its base, extending into the sea, form rocks under water, which, during the blowing of theEtesian winds and the storms of that period, present dangers, when no assistance can be afforded to vessels.
Next is a bay in which are some scattered islands, and continuous with the bay, are three very lofty mounds of black sand. After these is Charmothas a harbour, about 100 stadia in circumference, with a narrow entrance very dangerous for all kinds of vessels. A river empties itself into it. In the middle is a well-wooded island, adapted for cultivation.
Then follows a rugged coast, and after that are some bays and a country belonging to Nomades, who live by theircamels. They fight from their backs; they travel upon them, and subsist on their milk and flesh. A river flows through their country, which brings down gold-dust, but they are ignorant how to make any use of it. They are called Debae; some of them are Nomades, others husbandmen.
I do not mention the greater part of the names of these nations, on account of the obscurity of the people, and because the pronunciation of them is strange [and uncouth].
Near these people is a nation more civilized, who inhabit a district with a more temperate climate ; for it is well watered, and has frequent showers. Fossil gold is found there, not in the form of dust, but in lumps, which do not require much purification. The least pieces are of the size of a nut, the middle size of a medlar, the largest of a walnut. These are pierced and arranged alternately with transparent stones strung on threads and formed into collars. They are worn round the neck and wrists. They sell the gold to their neighbours at a cheap rate, exchanging it for three times the quantity of brass, and double the quantity of iron, through ignorance of the mode of working the gold, and the scarcity of the commodities received in exchange, which are more necessary for the purposes of life.
§ 16.4.19 The country of theSabaei, a very populous nation, is contiguous, and is the most fertile of all, producing myrrh, frankincense, and cinnamon. On the coast is found balsamum and another kind of herb of a very fragrant smell, but which is soon dissipated. There are also sweet-smelling palms and the calamus. There aresnakes also of a dark red colour, a span in length, which spring up as high as a man's waist, and whose bite is incurable.
On account of the abundance which the soil produces, the people are lazy and indolent in their mode of life. The lower class of people live on roots, and sleep on the trees.
The people who live near each other receive, in continued succession, the loads [of perfumes] and deliver them to others, who convey them as far asSyria andMesopotamia. When the carriers become drowsy by the odour of the aromatics, the drowsiness is removed by the fumes of asphaltus and ofgoat's beard.
Mariaba, the capital of theSabaeans, is situated upon a mountain, well wooded. A king resides there, who determines absolutely all disputes and other matters ; but he is forbidden to leave his palace, or if he does so, the rabble immediately assail him with stones, according to the direction of an oracle. He himself, and those about his person, pass their lives in effeminate voluptuousness.
The people cultivate the ground, or follow the trade of dealing in aromatics, both the indigenous sort and those brought fromEthiopia; in order to procure them, they sail through the straits in vessels covered with skins. There is such an abundance of these aromatics, that cinnamon, cassia, and other spices are used by them instead of sticks and firewood.
In the country of theSabaeans is found the larimnum, a most fragrant perfume.
By the trade [in these aromatics] both theSabaeans and theGerrhaei have become the richest of all the tribes, and possess a great quantity of wrought articles in gold and silver, as couches, tripods, basins, drinking-vessels, to which we must add the costly magnificence of their houses; for the doors, walls, and roofs are variegated with inlaid ivory, gold, silver, and precious stones.
This is the account ofArtemidorus. The rest of the description is partly similar to that ofEratosthenes, and partly derived from other historians.
§ 16.4.20 Some of these say, that the sea is red from the colour arising from reflection either from the sun, which is vertical, or from the mountains, which are red by being scorched with intense heat; for the colour, it is supposed, may be produced by both these causes.Ctesias ofCnidus speaks of a spring which discharges into the sea a red and ochrous water.Agatharchides, his fellow-citizen, relates, on the authority of a person of the name ofBoxus, ofPersian descent, that when a troop ofhorses was driven by a lioness in heat as far as the sea, and had passed over to an island, aPersian of the name of Erythras constructed a raft, and was the first person who crossed the sea to it; perceiving the island to be well adapted for inhabitants, he drove the herd back toPersia, and sent out colonists both to this and the other islands and to the coast. He [thus] gave his own name to the sea. But according to others, it wasErythras the son ofPerseus who was the king of this country.
According to some writers, from the straits in theArabian Gulf to the extremity of the cinnamon country is a distance of 5000 stadia, without distinguishing whether (the direction is) to the south or to the east.
It is said also that the emerald and the beryl are found in the gold mines. According toPoseidonius, an odoriferous salt is found inArabia.
§ 16.4.21 TheNabataeans andSabaeans, situated aboveSyria, are the first people who occupyArabia Felix. They were frequently in the habit of overrunning this country before the Romans became masters of it, but at present both they and the Syrians are subject to the Romans.
The capital of theNabataeans is calledPetra. It is situated on a spot which is surrounded and fortified by a smooth and level rock (petra), which externally is abrupt and precipitous, but within there are abundant springs of water both for domestic purposes and for watering gardens. Beyond the enclosure the country is for the most part a desert, particularly towardsJudaea. Through this is the shortest road toJericho, a journey of three or four days, and five days to thePhoenicon (or palm plantation). It is always governed by a king of the royal race. The king has a minister who is one of the Companions, and is called Brother. It has excellent laws for the administration of public affairs.
Athenodorus, a philosopher, and my friend, who had been atPetra, used to relate with surprise, that he found many Romans and also many other strangers residing there. He observed the strangers frequently engaged in litigation, both with one another and with the natives; but the natives had never any dispute amongst themselves, and lived together in perfect harmony.
§ 16.4.22 The late expedition of the Romans against theArabians, under the command ofAelius Gallus, has made us acquainted with many peculiarities of the country.Augustus Caesar despatched this general to explore the nature of these places and their inhabitants, as well as those ofEthiopia; for he observed thatTroglodytica, which is contiguous toEgypt, bordered uponEthiopia; and that theArabian Gulf was extremely narrow, where it separates theArabians from theTroglodytae. It was his intention either to conciliate or subdue theArabians. He was also influenced by the report, which had prevailed from all time, that this people were very wealthy, and exchanged their aromatics and precious stones for silver and gold, but never expended with foreigners any part of what they received in exchange. He hoped to acquire either opulent friends, or to overcome opulent enemies. He was moreover encouraged to undertake this enterprise by the expectation of assistance from theNabataeans, who promised to co-operate with him in everything.
§ 16.4.23 Upon these inducementsGallus set out on the expedition. But he was deceived bySyllaeus, the [king's] minister of theNabataeans, who had promised to be his guide on the march, and to assist him in the execution of his design.Syllaeus was however treacherous throughout; for he neither guided them by a safe course by sea along the coast, nor by a safe road for the army, as he promised, but exposed both the fleet and the army to danger, by directing them where there was no road, or the road was impracticable, where they were obliged to make long circuits, or to pass through tracts of country destitute of everything ; he led the fleet along a rocky coast without harbours, or to places abounding with rocks concealed under water, or with shallows. In places of this description particularly, the flowing and ebbing of the tide did them the most harm.
The first mistake consisted in building long vessels [of war] at a time when there was no war, nor any likely to occur by sea. For theArabians, being mostly engaged in traffic and commerce, are not a very warlike people even on land, much less so at sea.Gallus, notwithstanding, built not less than eighty biremes and triremes and galleys (phaseli) atCleopatris, near the old canal which leads from theNile. When he discovered his mistake, he constructed a hundred and thirty vessels of burden, in which he embarked with about ten thousand infantry, collected fromEgypt, consisting of Romans and allies, among whom were five hundredJews and a thousandNabataeans, under the command ofSyllaeus. After enduring great hardships and distress, he arrived on the fifteenth day at Leuce Kome, a large mart in the territory of theNabataeans, with the loss of many of his vessels, some with all their crews, in consequence of the difficulty of the navigation, but by no opposition from an enemy. These misfortunes were occasioned by the perfidy ofSyllaeus, who insisted that there was no road for an army by land toLeuce Come, to which and from which place thecamel-traders travel with ease and in safety fromPetra, and back toPetra, with so large a body of men andcamels as to differ in no respect from an army.
§ 16.4.24 Another cause of the failure of the expedition was the fact of kingObodas not paying much attention to public affairs, and especially to those relative to war (as is the custom with allArabian kings), but placed everything in the power ofSyllaeus the minister. His whole conduct in command of the army was perfidious, and his object was, as I suppose, to examine as a spy the state of the country, and to destroy, in concert with the Romans, certain cities and tribes; and when the Romans should be consumed by famine, fatigue, and disease, and by all the evils which he had treacherously contrived, to declare himself master of the whole country.
Gallus however arrived atLeuce Come, with the army labouring under stomacacce and scelotyrbe, diseases of the country, the former affecting the mouth, the other the legs, with a kind of paralysis, caused by the water and the plants [which the soldiers had used in their food]. He was therefore compelled to pass the summer and the winter there, for the recovery of the sick.
Merchandise is conveyed fromLeuce-Come toPetra, thence toRhinocolura inPhoenicia, nearEgypt, and thence to other nations. But at present the greater part is transported by theNile toAlexandreia. It is brought down fromArabia andIndia toMyus Hormus, it is then conveyed oncamels toCoptus of theThebais, situated on a canal of theNile, and toAlexandreia.Gallus, setting out again fromLeuce-Come on his return with his army, and through the treachery of his guide, traversed such tracts of country, that the army was obliged to carry water with them uponcamels. After a march of many days, therefore, he came to the territory ofAretas, who was related toObodas.Aretas received him in a friendly manner, and offered presents. But by the treachery ofSyllaeus,Gallus was conducted by a difficult road through the country ; for he occupied thirty days in passing through it. It afforded barley, a few palm trees, and butter instead of oil.
The next country to which he came belonged to Nomades, and was in great part a complete desert. It was called Ararene. The king of the country was Sabos.Gallus spent fifty days in passing through this territory, for want of roads, and came to a city of theNegrani, and to a fertile country peacefully disposed. The king had fled, and the city was taken at the first onset. After a march of six days from thence, he came to the river. Here the barbarians attacked the Romans, and lost about ten thousand men; the Romans lost only two men. For the barbarians were entirely inexperienced in war, and used their weapons unskilfully, which were bows, spears, swords, and slings; but the greater part of them wielded a double-edged axe. Immediately afterwards he took the city called Asca, which had been abandoned by the king. He thence came to a city Athrula, and took it without resistance; having placed a garrison there, and collected provisions for the march, consisting of corn and dates, he proceeded to a cityMarsiaba, belonging to the nation of theRhammanitae, who were subjects of Ilasarus. He assaulted and besieged it for six days, but raised the siege in consequence of a scarcity of water. He was two days' march from the aromatic region, as he was informed by his prisoners. He occupied in his marches a period of six months, in consequence of the treachery of his guides. This he discovered when he was returning; and although he was late in discovering the design against him, he had time to take another road back; for he arrived in nine days atNegrana, where the battle was fought, and thence in eleven days he came to the 'Seven Wells,' as the place is called from the fact of their existing there. Thence he marched through a desert country, and came to Chaalla a village, and then to another called Malothas, situated on a river. His road then lay through a desert country, which had only a few watering-places, as far asEgra a village. It belongs to the territory ofObodas, and is situated upon the sea. He accomplished on his return the whole distance in sixty days, in which, on his first journey, he had consumed six months. From there he conducted his army in eleven days toMyus Hormus; thence across the country toCoptus, and arrived atAlexandreia with so much of his army as could be saved. The remainder he lost, not by the enemy, but by disease, fatigue, famine, and marches through bad roads ; for seven men only perished in battle. For these reasons this expedition contributed little in extending our knowledge of the country. It was however of some small service.
Syllaeus, the author of these disasters, was punished for his treachery atRome. He affected friendship, but he was convicted of other offences, besides perfidy in this instance, and was beheaded.
§ 16.4.25 The aromatic country, as I have before said, is divided into four parts. Of aromatics, the frankincense and myrrh are said to be the produce of trees, but cassia the growth of bushes; yet some writers say, that the greater part (of the cassia) is brought fromIndia, and that the best frankincense is that fromPersia.
According to another partition of the country, the whole ofArabia Felix is divided into five kingdoms (or portions), one of which comprises the fighting men, who fight for all the rest; another contains the husbandmen, by whom the rest are supplied with food; another includes those who work at mechanical trades. One division comprises the myrrh region; another the frankincense region, although the same tracts produce cassia, cinnamon, and nard. Trades are not changed from one family to another, but each workman continues to exercise that of his father.
The greater part of their wine is made from the palm.
A man's brothers are held in more respect than his children. The descendants of the royal family succeed as kings, and are invested with other governments, according to primogeniture. Property is common among all the relations. The eldest is the chief. There is one wife among them all. He who enters the house before any of the rest, has intercourse with her, having placed his staff at the door; for it is a necessary custom, which every one is compelled to observe, to carry a staff. The woman however passes the night with the eldest. Hence the male children are all brothers. They have sexual intercourse also with their mothers. Adultery is punished with death, but an adulterer must belong to another family.
A daughter of one of the kings was of extraordinary beauty, and had fifteen brothers, who were all in love with her, and were her unceasing and successive visitors; she, being at last weary of their importunity, is said to have employed the following device. She procured staves to be made similar to those of her brothers; when one left the house, she placed before the door a staff similar to the first, and a little time afterwards another, and so on in succession, but making her calculation so that the person who intended to visit her might not have one similar to that at her door. On an occasion when the brothers were all of them together at the market-place, one left it, and came to the door of the house; seeing the staff there, and conjecturing some one to be in her apartment, and having left all the other brothers at the marketplace, he suspected the person to be an adulterer ; running therefore in haste to his father, he brought him with him to the house, but it was proved that he had falsely accused his sister.
§ 16.4.26 TheNabataeans are prudent, and fond of accumulating property. The community fine a person who has diminished his substance, and confer honours on him who has increased it. They have few slaves, and are served for the most part by their relations, or by one another, or each person is his own servant; and this custom extends even to their kings. They eat their meals in companies consisting of thirteen persons. Each party is attended by two musicians. But the king gives many entertainments in great buildings. No one drinks more than eleven [appointed] cupfuls, from separate cups, each of gold.
The king courts popular favour so much, that he is not only his own servant, but sometimes he himself ministers to others. He frequently renders an account [of his administration] before the people, and sometimes an inquiry is made into his mode of life. The houses are sumptuous, and of stone. The cities are without walls, on account of the peace [which prevails among them]. A great part of the country is fertile, and produces everything except oil of olives; [instead of it], the oil of sesamum is used. Thesheep have white fleeces, theiroxen are large; but the country produces nohorses.Camels are the substitute forhorses, and perform the [same kind of] labour. They wear no tunics, but have a girdle about the loins, and walk abroad in sandals. The dress of the kings is the same, but the colour is purple.
Some merchandise is altogether imported into the country, others are not altogether imports, especially as some articles are native products, as gold and silver, and many of the aromatics; but brass and iron, purple garments, styrax, saffron, and costus (or white cinnamon), pieces of sculpture, paintings, statues, are not to be procured in the country.
They look upon the bodies of the dead as no better than dung, according to the words ofHeracleitus, 'dead bodies more fit to be cast out than dung;' wherefore they bury even their kings beside dung-heaps. They worship the sun, and construct the altar on the top of a house, pouring out libations and burning frankincense upon it every day.
§ 16.4.27 When the poet says, "I went to the country of theEthiopians,Sidonians, andErembi," it is doubtful, what people he means bySidonians, whether those who lived near thePersian Gulf, a colony from which nation are theSidonians in our quarter (in the same manner as historians relate, that someTyrian islanders are found there, andAradii, from whom theAradii in our country derive their origin), or whether the poet means actually theSidonians themselves.
But there is more doubt about theErembi, whether we are to suppose that he means theTroglodytae, according to the opinion of those who, by a forced etymology, derive the wordErembi from ἔραν ἐμβαίνειν, that is, 'entering into the earth,' or whether he means theArabians.Zeno the philosopher of our sect alters the reading in this manner, "And Sidoni, and Arabes;" butPoseidonius alters it with a small variation, "And Sidonii, and Arambi," as if the poet gave the name Arambi to the presentArabians, from their being so called by others in his time. He says also, that the situation of these three nations close to one another indicates a descent from some common stock, and that on this account they are called by names having a resemblance to one another, as Armenii, Aramaei, Arambi. For as we may suppose one nation to have been divided into three (according to the differences of latitude [in which they lived], which successively became more marked [in proceeding from one to the other]), so in like manner we may suppose that several names were adopted in place of one. The proposed change of reading to Eremni is not probable, for that name is more applicable to theEthiopians. The poet mentions also theArimi, whomPoseidonius says are meant here, and not a place inSyria orCilicia, or any other country, butSyria itself. For theAramaei lived there. Perhaps these are the people whom the Greeks called Arimaei or Arimi. But the alterations of names, especially of barbarous nations, are frequent, ThusDarius was called Darieces;Parysatis, Pharziris; Athara, Atargata, whomCtesias again callsDerceto.
Alexander might be adduced to bear witness to the wealth of theArabians, for he intended, it is said, after his return fromIndia, to makeArabia the seat of empire. All his enterprises terminated with his death, which happened suddenly; but certainly one of his projects was to try whether theArabians would receive him voluntarily, or resist him by force of arms; for having found that they did not send ambassadors to him, either before or after his expedition toIndia, he was beginning to make preparations for war, as we have said in a former part of this work.
§ 17.1.1 BOOK 17
WHEN we were describingArabia, we included in the description the gulfs which compress and make it a peninsula, namely the Gulfs ofArabia and ofPersis. We described at the same time some parts ofEgypt, and those ofEthiopia, inhabited by theTroglodytae, and by the people situated next to them, extending to the confines of the Cinnamon country.
We are now to describe the remaining parts contiguous to these nations, and situated about theNile. We shall then give an account of Africa, which remains to complete this treatise on Geography.
And here we must previously adduce the opinions ofEratosthenes.
§ 17.1.2 He says, that theNile is distant from theArabian Gulf towards the west 1000 stadia, and that it resembles (in its course) the letter N reversed. For after flowing, he says, about 2700 stadia fromMeroe towards the north, it turns again to the south, and to the winter sunset, continuing its course for about 3700 stadia, when it is almost in the latitude of the places aboutMeroe. Then entering far into Africa, and having made another bend, it flows towards the north, a distance of 5300 stadia, to the great cataract; and inclining a little to the east, traverses a distance of 1200 stadia to the smaller cataract atSyene, and 5300 stadia more to the sea.
Two rivers empty themselves into it, which issue out of some lakes towards the east, and encircleMeroe, a considerable island. One of these rivers is calledAstaboras, flowing along the eastern side of the island. The other is theAstapus, or, as some call it,Astasobas. But theAstapus is said to be another river, which issues out of some lakes on the south, and that this river forms nearly the body of the (stream of the)Nile, which flows in a straight line, and that it is filled by the summer rains; that above the confluence of theAstaboras and theNile, at the distance of 700 stadia, isMeroe, a city having the same name as the island; and that there is another island aboveMeroe, occupied by the fugitiveEgyptians, who revolted in the time ofPsammitichus, and are calledSembritae, or foreigners. Their sovereign is a queen, but they obey the king ofMeroe.
The lower parts of the country on each sideMeroe, along theNile towards theRed Sea, are occupied byMegabari and Blemmyes, who are subject to theEthiopians, and border upon theEgyptians; about the sea areTroglodytae. TheTroglodytae, in the latitude ofMeroe, are distant ten or twelve days' journey from theNile. On the left of the course of theNile liveNubae inLibya, a populous nation. They begin fromMeroe, and extend as far as the bends (of the river). They are not subject to theEthiopians, but live independently, being distributed into several sovereignties.
The extent ofEgypt along the sea, from thePelusiac to theCanobic mouth, is 1300 stadia.
Such is the account ofEratosthenes.
§ 17.1.3 We must, however, enter into a further detail of particulars. And first, we must speak of the parts aboutEgypt, proceeding from those that are better known to those which follow next in order.
TheNile produces some common effects in this and the contiguous tract of country, namely, that of theEthiopians above it, in watering them at the time of its rise, and leaving those parts only habitable which have been covered by the inundation; it intersects the higher lands, and all the tract elevated above its current on both sides, which however are uninhabited and a desert, from an absolute want of water. But theNile does not traverse the whole ofEthiopia, nor alone, nor in a straight line, nor a country which is well inhabited. ButEgypt it traverses both alone and entirely, and in a straight line, from the lesser cataract aboveSyene andElephantine, (which are the boundaries ofEgypt andEthiopia,) to the mouths by which it discharges itself into the sea. TheEthiopians at present lead for the most part a wandering life, and are destitute of the means of subsistence, on account of the barrenness of the soil, the disadvantages of climate, and their great distance from us.
Now the contrary is the case with theEgyptians in all these respects. For they have lived from the first under a regular form of government, they were a people of civilized manners, and were settled in a well-known country; their institutions have been recorded and mentioned in terms of praise, for they seemed to have availed themselves of the fertility of their country in the best possible manner by the partition of it (and by the classification of persons) which they adopted, and by their general care.
When they had appointed a king, they divided the people into three classes, into soldiers, husbandmen, and priests. The latter had the care of everything relating to sacred things (of the gods), the others of what related to man; some had the management of warlike affairs, others attended to the concerns of peace, the cultivation of the ground, and the practice of the arts, from which the king derived his revenue.
The priests devoted themselves to the study of philosophy and astronomy, and were companions of the kings.
The country was at first divided into nomes. TheThebais contained ten, the Delta ten, and the intermediate tract sixteen. But according to some writers, all the nomes together amounted to the number of chambers in theLabyrinth. Now these were less than thirty [six]. The nomes were again divided into other sections. The greater number of the nomes were distributed into toparchies, and these again into other sections ; the smallest portions were the arourae.
An exact and minute division of the country was required by the frequent confusion of boundaries occasioned at the time of the rise of theNile, which takes away, adds, and alters the various shapes of the bounds, and obliterates other marks by which the property of one person is distinguished from that of another. It was consequently necessary to measure the land repeatedly. Hence it is said geometry originated here, as the art of keeping accounts and arithmetic originated with thePhoenicians, in consequence of their commerce.
As the whole population of the country, so the separate population in each nome, was divided into three classes ; the territory also was divided into three equal portions.
The attention and care bestowed upon theNile is so great as to cause industry to triumph over nature. The ground by nature, and still more by being supplied with water, produces a great abundance of fruits. By nature also a greater rise of the river irrigates a larger tract of land; but industry has completely succeeded in rectifying the deficiency of nature, so that in seasons when the rise of the river has been less than usual, as large a portion of the country is irrigated by means of canals and embankments, as in seasons when the rise of the river has been greater.
Before the times ofPetronius there was the greatest plenty, and the rise of the river was the greatest when it rose to the height of fourteen cubits; but when it rose to eight only, a famine ensued. During the government ofPetronius, however, when theNile rose twelve cubits only, there was a most abundant crop; and once when it mounted to eight only, no famine followed. Such then is the nature of this provision for the physical state of the country. We shall now proceed to the next particulars.
§ 17.1.4 TheNile, when it leaves the boundaries ofEthiopia, flows in a straight line towards the north, to the tract called the Delta, then 'cloven at the head,' (according to the expression ofPlato,) makes this point the vertex, as it were, of a triangle, the sides of which are formed by the streams, which separate on each side, and extend to the sea, one on the right hand toPelusium, the other on the left toCanobus and the neighbouringHeracleium, as it is called ; the base is the coast lying betweenPelusium and theHeracleium.
An island was therefore formed by the sea and by both streams of the river, which is called Delta from the resemblance of its shape to the letter (Δ) of that name. The spot at the vertex of the triangle has the same appellation, because it is the beginning of the above-mentioned triangular figure. The village, also, situated upon it is called Delta.
These then are two mouths of theNile, one of which is called thePelusiac, the other the Canobic and Heracleiotic mouth. Between these are five other outlets, some of which are considerable, but the greater part are of inferior importance. For many others branch off from the principal streams, and are distributed over the whole of the island of the Delta, and form many streams and islands; so that the whole Delta is accessible to boats, one canal succeeding another, and navigated with so much ease, that some persons make use of rafts floated on earthen pots, to transport them from place to place.
The whole island is about 3000 stadia in circumference, and is called, as also the lower country, with the land on the opposite sides of the streams, the Delta.
But at the time of the rising of theNile, the whole country is covered, and resembles a sea, except the inhabited spots, which are situated upon natural hills or mounds ; and considerable cities and villages appear like islands in the distant prospect.
The water, after having continued on the ground more than forty days in summer, then subsides by degrees, in the same manner as it rose. In sixty days the plain is entirely exposed to view, and dries up. The sooner the land is dry, so much the sooner the ploughing and sowing are accomplished, and it dries earlier in those parts where the heat is greater.
The country above the Delta is irrigated in the same manner, except that the river flows in a straight line to the distance of about 4000 stadia in one channel, unless where some island intervenes, the most considerable of which comprises the Heracleiotic Nome; or, where it is diverted by a canal into a large lake, or a tract of country which it is capable of irrigating, as the lakeMoeris and the Arsinoite Nome, or where the canals discharge themselves into theMareotis.
In short,Egypt, from the mountains ofEthiopia to the vertex of the Delta, is merely a river tract on each side of theNile, and rarely if anywhere comprehends in one continued line a habitable territory of 300 stadia in breadth. It resembles, except the frequent diversions of its course, a bandage rolled out.
The mountains on each side (of theNile), which descend from the parts aboutSyene to theEgyptian Sea, give this shape to the river tract of which I am speaking, and to the country. For in proportion as these mountains extend along that tract, or recede from each other, in the same degree is the river contracted or expanded, and they impart to the habitable country its variety of shape. But the country beyond the mountains is in a great measure uninhabited.
§ 17.1.5 The ancients understood more by conjecture than otherwise, but persons in later times learnt by experience as eyewitnesses, that theNile owes its rise to summer rains, which fall in great abundance in UpperEthiopia, particularly in the most distant mountains. On the rains ceasing, the fulness of the river gradually subsides. This was particularly observed by those who navigated theArabian Gulf on their way to the Cinnamon country, and by those who were sent out to hunt elephants, or for such other purposes as induced thePtolemies, kings ofEgypt, to despatch persons in that direction. These sovereigns had directed their attention to objects of this kind, particularlyPtolemy surnamedPhiladelphus, who was a lover of science, and on account of bodily infirmities always in search of some new diversion and amusement. But the ancient kings paid little attention to such inquiries, although both they and the priests, with whom they passed the greater part of their lives, professed to be devoted to the study of philosophy. Their ignorance therefore is more surprising, both on this account and becauseSesostris had traversed the whole ofEthiopia as far as the Cinnamon country, of which expedition monuments exist even to the present day, such as pillars and inscriptions.Cambyses also, when he was in possession ofEgypt, had advanced with theEgyptians as far even asMeroe; and it is said that he gave this name both to the island and to the city, because his sister, or according to some writers his wife,Meroe died there. For this reason therefore he conferred the appellation on the island, and in honour of a woman. It is surprising how, with such opportunities of obtaining information, the history of these rains should not have been clearly known to persons living in those times, especially as the priests registered with the greatest diligence in the sacred books all extraordinary facts, and preserved records of everything which seemed to contribute to an increase of knowledge. And, if this had been the case, would it be necessary to inquire what is even still a question, what can possibly be the reason why rain falls in summer, and not in winter, in the most southerly parts of the country, but not in theThebais, nor in the country aboutSyene ? nor should we have to examine whether the rise of the water of theNile is occasioned by rains, nor require such evidence for these facts asPoseidonius adduces. For he says, thatCallisthenes asserts that the cause of the rise of the river is the rain of summer. This he borrows fromAristotle, who borrowed it fromThrasyalces theThasian (one of the ancient writers on physics),Thrasyalces from some other person, and he fromHomer, who calls theNile 'heaven-descended:' "back toEgypt's heaven-descended stream." But I quit this subject, since it has been discussed by many writers, among whom it will be sufficient to specify two, who have (each) composed in our times a treatise on theNile,Eudorus andAristo thePeripatetic philosopher. [They differ little from each other] except in the order and disposition of the works, for the phraseology and execution is the same in both writers. (I can speak with some confidence in this matter), for when at a loss (for manuscripts) for the purpose of comparison and copy, I collated both authors. But which of them surreptitiously substituted the other's account as his own, we may go to the temple ofAmmon to be informed.Eudorus accusedAristo, but the style is more like that ofAristo.
The ancients gave the name ofEgypt to that country only which was inhabited and watered by theNile, and the extent they assigned to it was from the neighbourhood ofSyene to the sea. But later writers, to the present time, have included on the eastern side almost all the tract between theArabian Gulf and theNile (the Aethiopians however do not make much use of theRed Sea); on the western side, the tract extending to theAuases and the parts of the sea-coast from theCanobic mouth of theNile toCatabathmus, and the kingdom ofCyrenaea. For the kings who succeeded the race of thePtolemies had acquired so much power, that they became masters ofCyrenaea, and even joinedCyprus toEgypt. The Romans, who succeeded to their dominions, separatedEgypt, and confined it within the old limits.
TheEgyptians give the name ofAuases (Oases) to certain inhabited tracts, which are surrounded by extensive deserts, and appear like islands in the sea. They are frequently met with inLibya, and there are three contiguous toEgypt, and dependent upon it.
This is the account which we have to give ofEgypt in general and summarily. I shall now describe the separate parts of the country and their advantages.
§ 17.1.6 AsAlexandreia and its neighbourhood occupy the greatest and principal portion of the description, I shall begin with it.
In sailing towards the west, the sea-coast fromPelusium to theCanobic mouth of theNile is about 1300 stadia in extent, and constitutes, as we have said, the base of the Delta. Thence to the islandPharos are 150 stadia more.
Pharos is a small oblong island, and lies quite close to the continent, forming towards it a harbour with a double entrance. For the coast abounds with bays, and has two promontories projecting into the sea. The island is situated between these, and shuts in the bay, lying lengthways in front of it.
Of the extremities of thePharos, the eastern is nearest to the continent and to the promontory in that direction, calledLochias, which is the cause of the entrance to the port being narrow. Besides the narrowness of the passage, there are rocks, some under water, others rising above it, which at all times increase the violence of the waves rolling in upon them from the open sea. This extremity itself of the island is a rock, washed by the sea on all sides, with a tower upon it of the same name as the island, admirably constructed of white marble, with several stories.Sostratus ofCnidus, a friend of the kings, erected it for the safety of mariners, as the inscription imports. For as the coast on each side is low and without harbours, with reefs and shallows, an elevated and conspicuous mark was required to enable navigators coming in from the open sea to direct their course exactly to the entrance of the harbour.
The western mouth does not afford an easy entrance, but it does not require the same degree of caution as the other. It forms also another port, which has the name ofEunostus, or Happy Return: it lies in front of the artificial and close harbour. That which has its entrance at the above-mentioned tower ofPharos is the great harbour. These (two) lie contiguous in the recess calledHeptastadium, and are separated from it by a mound. This mound forms a bridge from the continent to the island, and extends along its western side, leaving two passages only through it to the harbour ofEunostus, which are bridged over. But this work served not only as a bridge, but as an aqueduct also, when the island was inhabited. DivusCaesar devastated the island, in his war against the people ofAlexandreia, when they espoused the party of the kings. A few sailors live near the tower.
The great harbour, in addition to its being well enclosed by the mound and by nature, is of sufficient depth near the shore to allow the largest vessel to anchor near the stairs. It is also divided into several ports.
The former kings ofEgypt, satisfied with what they possessed, and not desirous of foreign commerce, entertained a dislike to all mariners, especially the Greeks (who, on account of the poverty of their own country, ravaged and coveted the property of other nations), and stationed a guard here, who had orders to keep off all persons who approached. To the guard was assigned as a place of residence the spot calledRhacotis, which is now a part of the city ofAlexandreia, situated above the arsenal. At that time, however, it was a village. The country about the village was given up to herdsmen, who were also able (from their numbers) to prevent strangers from entering the country.
WhenAlexander arrived, and perceived the advantages of the situation, he determined to build the city on the (natural) harbour. The prosperity of the place, which ensued, was intimated, it is said, by a presage which occurred while the plan of the city was tracing. The architects were engaged in marking out the line of the wall with chalk, and had consumed it all, when the king arrived; upon which the dispensers of flour supplied the workmen with a part of the flour, which was provided for their own use; and this substance was used in tracing the greater part of the divisions of the streets. This, they said, was a good omen for the city.
§ 17.1.7 The advantages of the city are of various kinds. The site is washed by two seas; on the north, by what is called theEgyptian Sea, and on the south, by the sea of the lakeMareia, which is also calledMareotis. This lake is filled by many canals from theNile, both by those above and those at the sides, through which a greater quantity of merchandise is imported than by those communicating with the sea. Hence the harbour on the lake is richer than the maritime harbour. The exports by sea fromAlexandreia exceed the imports. This any person may ascertain, either atAlexandreia orDicaearchia, by watching the arrival and departure of the merchant vessels, and observing how much heavier or lighter their cargoes are when they depart or when they return.
In addition to the wealth derived from merchandise landed at the harbours on each side, on the sea and on the lake, its fine air is worthy of remark: this results from the city being on two sides surrounded by water, and from the favourable effects of the rise of theNile. For other cities, situated near lakes, have, during the heats of summer, a heavy and suffocating atmosphere, and lakes at their margins become swampy by the evaporation occasioned by the sun's heat. When a large quantity of moisture is exhaled from swamps, a noxious vapour rises, and is the cause of pestilential disorders. But atAlexandreia, at the beginning of summer, theNile, being full, fills the lake also, and leaves no marshy matter which is likely to occasion malignant exhalations. At the same period, theEtesian winds blow from the north, over a large expanse of sea, and the Alexandrines in consequence pass their summer very pleasantly.
§ 17.1.8 The shape of the site of the city is that of a chlamys or military cloak. The sides, which determine the length, are surrounded by water, and are about thirty stadia in extent; but the isthmuses, which determine the breadth of the sides, are each of seven or eight stadia, bounded on one side by the sea, and on the other by the lake. The whole city is intersected by roads for the passage of horsemen and chariots. Two of these are very broad, exceeding a plethrum in breadth, and cut one another at right angles. It contains also very beautiful public grounds and royal palaces, which occupy a fourth or even a third part of its whole extent. For as each of the kings was desirous of adding some embellishment to the places dedicated to the public use, so, besides the buildings already existing, each of them erected a building at his own expense; hence the expression of the poet may be here applied, "one after the other springs." All the buildings are connected with one another and with the harbour, and those also which are beyond it.
TheMuseum is a part of the palaces. It has a public walk and a place furnished with seats, and a large hall, in which the men of learning, who belong to theMuseum, take their common meal. This community possesses also property in common; and a priest, formerly appointed by the kings, but at present byCaesar, presides over theMuseum.
A part belonging to the palaces consists of that calledSema, an enclosure, which contained the tombs of the kings and that ofAlexander (the Great). ForPtolemy the son ofLagus took away the body ofAlexander fromPerdiccas, as he was conveying it down fromBabylon; forPerdiccas had turned out of his road towardsEgypt, incited by ambition and a desire of making himself master of the country. WhenPtolemy had attacked [and made him prisoner], he intended to [spare his life and] confine him in a desert island, but he met with a miserable end at the hand of his own soldiers, who rushed upon and despatched him by transfixing him with the longMacedonian spears. The kings who were with him,Aridaeus, and the children ofAlexander, andRoxana his wife, departed toMacedonia.Ptolemy carried away the body ofAlexander, and deposited it atAlexandreia in the place where it now lies; not indeed in the same coffin, for the present one is of hyalus (alabaster ?) whereasPtolemy had deposited it in one of gold: it was plundered byPtolemy surnamed Cocce's son and Pareisactus, who came fromSyria and was quickly deposed, so that his plunder was of no service to him.
§ 17.1.9 In the great harbour at the entrance, on the right hand, are the island and thePharos tower; on the left are the reef of rocks and the promontoryLochias, with a palace upon it: at the entrance, on the left hand, are the inner palaces, which are continuous with those on theLochias, and contain numerous painted apartments and groves. Below lies the artificial and close harbour, appropriated to the use of the kings; and Antirrhodus a small island, facing the artificial harbour, with a palace on it, and a small port. It was called Antirrhodus, a rival as it were ofRhodes.
Above this is the theatre, then the Poseidium, a kind of elbow projecting from the Emporium, as it is called, with a temple ofNeptune upon it. To thisAntony added a mound, projecting still further into the middle of the harbour, and built at the extremity a royal mansion, which he called Timonium. This was his last act, when, deserted by his partisans, he retired toAlexandreia after his defeat atActium, and intended, being forsaken by so many friends, to lead the [solitary] life ofTimon for the rest of his days.
Next are the Caesarium, the Emporium, and the Apostaseis, or magazines: these are followed by docks, extending to theHeptastadium. This is the description of the great harbour.
§ 17.1.10 Next after theHeptastadium is the harbour ofEunostus, and above this the artificial harbour, calledCibotus (or the Ark), which also has docks. At the bottom of this harbour is a navigable canal, extending to the lakeMareotis. Beyond the canal there still remains a small part of the city. Then follows the suburb Necropolis, in which are numerous gardens, burial-places, and buildings for carrying on the process of embalming the dead.
On this side the canal is the Sarapium and other ancient sacred places, which are now abandoned on account of the erection of the temples atNicopolis; for [there are situated] an amphitheatre and a stadium, and there are celebrated quinquennial games; but the ancient rites and customs are neglected.
In short, the city ofAlexandreia abounds with public and sacred buildings. The most beautiful of the former is the Gymnasium, with porticos exceeding a stadium in extent. In the middle of it are the court of justice and groves. Here also is a Paneium, an artificial mound of the shape of a fir-cone, resembling a pile of rock, to the top of which there is an ascent by a spiral path. From the summit may be seen the whole city lying all around and beneath it.
The wide street extends in length along the Gymnasium from the Necropolis to the Canobic gate. Next is theHippodromos (or race-course), as it is called, and other buildings near it, and reaching to the Canobic canal. After passing through theHippodromos is the Nicopolis, which contains buildings fronting the sea not less numerous than a city. It is 30 stadia distant fromAlexandreia.Augustus Caesar distinguished this place, because it was here that he defeatedAntony and his party of adherents. He took the city at the first onset, and compelledAntony to put himself to death, butCleopatra to surrender herself alive. A short time afterwards, however, she also put an end to her life secretly, in prison, by the bite of anasp, or (for there are two accounts) by the application of a poisonous ointment. Thus the empire of theLagidae, which had subsisted many years, was dissolved.
§ 17.1.11 Alexander was succeeded byPtolemy the son ofLagus, the son ofLagus byPhiladelphus,Philadelphus byEuergetes; next succeededPhilopator the lover ofAgathocleia, thenEpiphanes, afterwardsPhilometor, the son (thus far) always succeeding the father. ButPhilometor was succeeded by his brother, the secondEuergetes, who was also calledPhyscon. He was succeeded byPtolemy surnamed Lathyrus,Lathyrus byAuletes of our time, who was the father ofCleopatra. All these kings, after the thirdPtolemy, were corrupted by luxury and effeminacy, and the affairs of government were very badly administered by them; but worst of all by the fourth, the seventh, and the last,Auletes (or the Piper), who, besides other deeds of shamelessness, acted the piper; indeed he gloried so much in the practice, that he scrupled not to appoint trials of skill in his palace; on which occasions he presented himself as a competitor with other rivals. He was deposed by the Alexandrines; and of his three daughters, one, the eldest, who was legitimate, they proclaimedqueen; but his two sons, who were infants, were absolutely excluded from the succession.
As a husband for the daughter established on the throne, the Alexandrines invited a fish-monger (kybiosaktes) fromSyria, who pretended to be descended from the Syrian kings. The queen after a few days, unable to endure his coarseness and vulgarity, rid herself of him by causing him to be strangled. She afterwards marriedArchelaus, who also pretended to be the son ofMithridates Eupator, but he was really the son of thatArchelaus who carried on war againstSulla, and was afterwards honourably treated by the Romans. He was grandfather of the last king ofCappadocia in our time, and priest ofComana inPontus. He was then (at the time we are speaking of) the guest ofGabinius, and intended to accompany him in an expedition against theParthians, but unknown toGabinius, he was conducted away by some (friends) to the queen, and declared king.
At this timePompey the Great entertainedAuletes as his guest on his arrival atRome, and recommended him to the senate, negotiated his return, and contrived the execution of most of the deputies, in number a hundred, who had undertaken to appear against him: at their head wasDion the academic philosopher.
Ptolemy (Auletes) on being restored byGabinius, put to death bothArchelaus and his daughter; but not long after he was reinstated in his kingdom, he died a natural death, leaving two sons and two daughters, the eldest of whom wasCleopatra.
The Alexandrines declared as sovereigns the eldest son andCleopatra. But the adherents of the son excited a sedition, and banishedCleopatra, who retired with her sister intoSyria.
It was about this time thatPompey the Great, in his flight fromPalaepharsalus, came toPelusium and MountCasium. He was treacherously slain by the king's party. WhenCaesar arrived, he put the young prince to death, and sending forCleopatra from her place of exile, appointed her queen ofEgypt, declaring also her surviving brother, who was very young, and herself joint sovereigns.
After the death ofCaesar and the battle atPharsalia,Antony passed over intoAsia; he raisedCleopatra to the highest dignity, made her his wife, and had children by her. He was present with her at the battle ofActium, and accompanied her in her flight.Augustus Caesar pursued them, put an end to their power, and rescuedEgypt from misgovernment and revelry.
§ 17.1.12 At presentEgypt is a (Roman) province, pays considerable tribute, and is well governed by prudent persons, who are sent there in succession. The governor thus sent out has the rank of king. Subordinate to him is the administrator of justice, who is the supreme judge in many causes. There is another officer, who is called Idiologus, whose business it is to inquire into property for which there is no claimant, and which of right falls toCaesar. These are accompanied byCaesar's freedmen and stewards, who are entrusted with affairs of more or less importance.
Three legions are stationed inEgypt, one in the city, the rest in the country. Besides these there are also nine Roman cohorts, three quartered in the city, three on the borders ofEthiopia inSyene, as a guard to that tract, and three in other parts of the country. There are also three bodies of cavalry distributed in convenient posts.
Of the native magistrates in the cities, the first is the expounder of the law, who is dressed in scarlet; he receives the customary honours of the country, and has the care of providing what is necessary for the city. The second is the writer of records, the third is the chief judge. The fourth is the commander of the night guard. These magistrates existed in the time of the kings, but in consequence of the bad administration of affairs by the latter, the prosperity of the city was ruined by licentiousness.Polybius expresses his indignation at the state of things when lie was there: he describes the inhabitants of the city to be composed of three classes; the (first)Egyptians and natives, acute but indifferent citizens, and meddling with civil affairs. Tile second, the mercenaries, a numerous and undisciplined body ; for it was an ancient custom to maintain foreign soldiers, who, from the worthlessness of their sovereigns, knew better how to govern than to obey. The third were the Alexandrines, who, for the same reason, were not orderly citizens; but still they were better than the mercenaries, for although they were a mixed race, yet being of Greek origin, they retained the customs common to the Greeks. But this class was extinct nearly about the time ofEuergetes Physcon, in whose reignPolybius came toAlexandreia. ForPhyscon, being distressed by factions, frequently exposed the multitude to the attacks of the soldiery, and thus destroyed them. By such a state of things in the city the words of the poet (saysPolybius) were verified: "The way toEgypt is long and vexatious."
§ 17.1.13 Such then, if not worse, was the condition of the city under the last kings. The Romans, as far as they were able, corrected, as I have said, many abuses, and established an orderly government, by appointing vice-governors, nomarchs, and ethnarchs, whose business it was to superintend affairs of minor importance.
The greatest advantage which the city possesses arises from its being the only place in allEgypt well situated by nature for communication with the sea by its excellent harbour, and with the land by the river, by means of which everything is easily transported and collected together into this city, which is the greatest mart in the habitable world.
These may be said to be the superior excellencies of the city.Cicero, in one of his orations, in speaking of the revenues ofEgypt, states that an annual tribute of 12,000 talents was paid toAuletes, the father ofCleopatra. If then a king, who administered his government in the worst possible manner, and with the greatest negligence, obtained so large a revenue, what must we suppose it to be at present, when affairs are administered with great care, and when the commerce withIndia and withTroglodytica has been so greatly increased ? For formerly not even twenty vessels ventured to navigate theArabian Gulf, or advance to the smallest distance beyond the straits at its mouth; but now large fleets are despatched as far asIndia and the extremities ofEthiopia, from which places the most valuable freights are brought toEgypt, and are thence exported to other parts, so that a double amount of custom is collected, arising from imports on the one hand, and from exports on the other. The most expensive description of goods is charged with the heaviest impost; for in factAlexandreia has a monopoly of trade, and is almost the only receptacle for this kind of merchandise and place of supply for foreigners. The natural convenience of the situation is still more apparent to persons travelling through the country, and particularly along the coast which commences at theCatabathmus; for to this placeEgypt extends.
Next to it isCyrenaea, and the neighboring barbarians, theMarmaridae.
§ 17.1.14 From theCatabathmus toParaetonium is a run of 900 stadia for a vessel in a direct course. There is a city and a large harbour of about 40 stadia in extent, by some called the cityParaetonium, by others, Ammonia. Between these is the village of theEgyptians, and the promontoryAenesisphyra, and theTyndareian rocks, four small islands, with a harbour; thenDrepanum a promontory, andAenesippeia an island with a harbour, andApis a village, from which toParaetonium are 100 stadia; [from thence] to the temple ofAmmon is a journey of five days. FromParaetonium toAlexandreia are about 1300 stadia. Between these are, first, a promontory of white earth, calledLeuke Akte, thenPhoenicus a harbour, andPnigeus a village; after these the island Sidonia (Pedonia ?) with a harbour; then a little further off from the sea,Antiphrae. The whole of this country produces no wine of a good quality, and the earthen jars contain more sea-water than wine, which is calledLibyan; this and beer are the principal beverage of the common people ofAlexandreia.Antiphrae in particular was a subject of ridicule (on account of its bad wine).
Next is the harbourDerrhis, which has its name from an adjacent black rock, resembling δέῤῥις, a hide. The neighbouring place is calledZephyrium. Then follows another harbour,Leucaspis (the white shield), and many others; then the Cynossema (ordog's monument); thenTaposeiris, not that situated upon the sea; here is held a great public festival. There is anotherTaposeiris, situated at a considerable distance beyond the city (Alexandreia). Near this, and close to the sea, is a rocky spot, which is the resort of great numbers of people at all seasons of the year, for the purpose of feasting and amusement. Next isPlinthine, and the village of Nicium, and Cherronesus a fortress, distant fromAlexandreia and the Necropolis about 70 stadia.
The lakeMareia, which extends as far as this place, is more than 150 stadia in breadth, and in length less than 300 stadia. It contains eight islands. The whole country about it is well inhabited. Good wine also is produced here, and in such quantity that theMareotic wine is racked in order that it may be kept to be old.
§ 17.1.15 The byblus and theEgyptian bean grow in the marshes and lakes; from the latter the ciborium is made. The stalks of the bean are nearly of equal height, and grow to the length of ten feet. The byblus is a bare stem, with a tuft on the top. But the bean puts out leaves and flowers in many parts, and bears a fruit similar to our bean, differing only in size and taste. The bean-grounds present an agreeable sight, and afford amusement to those who are disposed to recreate themselves with convivial feasts. These entertainments take place in boats with cabins; they enter the thickest part of the plantation, where they are overshadowed with the leaves, which are very large, and serve for drinking-cups and dishes, having a hollow which fits them for the purpose. They are found in great abundance in the shops inAlexandreia, where they are used as vessels. One of the sources of land revenue is the sale of these leaves. Such then is the nature of this bean.
The byblus does not grow here in great abundance, for it is not cultivated. But it abounds in the lower parts of the Delta. There is one sort inferior to the other. The best is the hieratica. Some persons intending to augment the revenue, employed in this case a method which theJews practised with the palm, especially the caryotic, and with the balsamum. In many places it is not allowed to be cultivated, and the price is enhanced by its rarity: the revenue is indeed thus increased, but the general consumption [of the article] is injured.
§ 17.1.16 On passing through the Canobic gate of the city, on the right hand is the canal leading toCanobus, close to the lake. They sail by this canal toSchedia, to the great river, and toCanobus, but the first place at which they arrive isEleusis. This is a settlement nearAlexandreia and Nicopolis, and situated on the Canobic canal. It has houses of entertainment which command beautiful views, and hither resort men and women who are inclined to indulge in noisy revelry, a prelude to Canobic life, and the dissolute manners of the people ofCanobus.
At a little distance fromEleusis, on the right hand, is the canal leading towardsSchedia.Schedia is distant four schoeni fromAlexandreia. It is a suburb of the city, and has a station for the vessels with cabins, which convey the governors when they visit the upper parts of the country. Here is collected the duty on merchandise, as it is transported up or down the river. For this purpose a bridge of boats is laid across the river, and from this kind of bridge the place has the name ofSchedia.
Next after the canal leading toSchedia, the navigation thence toCanobus is parallel to the sea-coast, extending fromPharos to theCanobic mouth. For between the sea and the canal, is a narrow band of ground, on which is situated the smallerZephyrium, which lies next after Nicopolis, andZephyrium a promontory, on which is a small temple dedicated toVenusArsinoe.
Anciently, it is said, a city calledThonis stood there, which bears the name of the king, who entertained as his guestsMenelaus andHelen. The poet thus speaks of the drugs which were given toHelen, "the potent drugs, whichPolydamna, the wife ofThon, gave toHelen."
§ 17.1.17 Canobus is a city, distant by land fromAlexandreia 120 stadia. It has its name fromCanobus, the pilot ofMenelaus, who died there. It contains the temple ofSarapis, held in great veneration, and celebrated for the cure of diseases; persons even of the highest rank confide in them, and sleep there themselves on their own account, or others for them. Some persons record the cures, and others the veracity of the oracles which are delivered there. But remarkable above everything else is the multitude of persons who resort to the public festivals, and come fromAlexandreia by the canal. For day and night there are crowds of men and women in boats, singing and dancing, without restraint, and with the utmost licentiousness. Others, atCanobus itself, keep hostelries situated on the banks of the canal, which are well adapted for such kind of diversion and revelry.
§ 17.1.18 Next toCanobus isHeracleium, in which is a temple ofHercules; then follows theCanobic mouth, and the commencement of the Delta.
On the right of the Canobic canal is the Menelaite Nome, so called from the brother of the firstPtolemy, but certainly not from the hero (Menelaus), as some writers assert, among whom isArtemidorus.
Next to theCanobic mouth is theBolbitine, then the Sebennytic, and thePhatnitic, which is the third in magnitude compared with the first two, which form the boundaries of the Delta. For it branches off into the interior, not far from the vertex of the Delta. TheMendesian is very near thePhatnitic mouth; next is theTanitic, and lastly thePelusiac mouth. There are others, which are of little consequence, between these, since they are as it were false mouths.
The mouths have entrances which are not capable of admitting large vessels, but lighters only, on account of the shallows and marshes. The Canobic mart is principally used as a mart for merchandise, the harbours atAlexandreia being closed, as I have said before.
After theBolbitine mouth there runs out to a great distance a low and sandy promontory. It is called Agnu-ceras (or Willow Point). Then follows thewatch-tower ofPerseus, and the fortress of theMilesians. For in the time ofPsammitichus, and whenCyaxares was king of theMedes, someMilesians with 30 vessels steered into theBolbitine mouth, disembarked there, and built the above-mentioned fortress. Some time afterwards they sailed up to theSaitic Nome. and having conqueredInarus in an engagement at sea, founded the cityNaucratis, not far aboveSchedia.
Next after the fortress of theMilesians, in proceeding towards theSebennytic mouth, are lakes, one of which is called Butice, from the cityButus; then the citySebennytice andSais, the capital of the lower country; hereMinerva is worshipped. In the temple there of this goddess, is the tomb ofPsammitichus. NearButus isHermopolis, situated in an island, and atButus is an oracle ofLatona.
§ 17.1.19 In the interior above theSebennytic andPhatnitic mouths isXois, both an island and a city in theSebennytic Nome. There are alsoHermopolis,Lycopolis, andMendes, wherePan is worshipped, and of animals agoat. Here, according toPindar,goats have intercourse with women.
NearMendes areDiospolis, and the lakes about it, andLeontopolis; then further on, the cityBusiris, in the Busirite Nome, andCynospolis.
Eratosthenes says, 'That to repel strangers is a practice common to all barbarians, but that this charge against theEgyptians is derived from fabulous stories related of (one)Busiris and his people in the Busirite Nome, as some persons in later times were disposed to charge the inhabitants of this place with inhospitality, although in truth there was neither king nor tyrant of the name ofBusiris: that besides there was a common saying, "The way toEgypt is long and vexatious," which originated in the want of harbours, and in the state of the harbour atPharos, which was not of free access, but watched and guarded by herdsmen, who were robbers, and attacked those who attempted to sail into it. TheCarthaginians drown [he says] any strangers who sail past, on their voyage toSardinia or to thePillars. Hence much of what is related of the parts towards the west is discredited. ThePersians also were treacherous guides, and conducted the ambassadors along circuitous and difficult ways.'
§ 17.1.20 Contiguous to the Busirite Nome are the Athribite Nome and the cityAthribis; next the Prosopite Nome, in which latter isAphroditopolis (the city ofVenus). Above theMendesian and theTanitic mouths are a large lake, and theMendesian and Leontopolite Nomes, and a city ofAphrodite (orVenus) and the Pharbetite Nome. Then follows theTanitic, which some call theSaitic mouth, and the Tanite Nome, and in itTanis a large city.
§ 17.1.21 Between theTanitic and thePelusiac mouths are lakes and large and continuous marshes, among which are numerous villages.Pelusium itself has many marshes lying around it, which some call Barathra (or water holes), and swamps. It is situated at a distance of more than 20 stadia from the sea. The circumference of the wall is 20 stadia. It has its name from the mud (πηλοῦ) of the swamps. On this quarterEgypt is difficult of access, i. e. from the eastern side towardsPhoenicia andJudaea, and on the side ofArabiaNabataea, which is contiguous; through which countries the road toEgypt lies.
The country between theNile and theArabian Gulf isArabia, and at its extremity is situatedPelusium. But the whole is desert, and not passable by an army. The isthmus betweenPelusium and the recess of theArabian Gulf nearHeroopolis is 1000 stadia; but, according toPoseidonius, less than 1500 stadia in extent. Besides its being sandy and without water, it abounds with reptiles, which burrow in the sand.
§ 17.1.22 In sailing up the river fromSchedia toMemphis, on the right hand, are a great many villages extending as far as the lakeMareia, among which is that called the village ofChabrias. Upon the river isHermopolis, thenGynaecopolis, and the Gynaecopolite Nome; nextMomemphis and the Momemphite Nome. Between these places are many canals, which empty themselves into the lakeMareotis. TheMomemphitae worshipVenus, and a sacredcow is kept there, asApis is maintained atMemphis, andMneyis atHeliopolis. These animals are regarded as gods, but there are other places, and these are numerous, both in the Delta and beyond it, in which abull or acow is maintained, which are not regarded as gods, but only as sacred.
§ 17.1.23 AboveMomemphis are two nitre mines, which furnish nitre in large quantities, and theNitriote Nome. HereSarapis is worshipped, and they are the only people inEgypt who sacrifice asheep. In this nome and near this place is a city calledMenelaus. On the left hand in the Delta, upon the river, isNaucratis. At the distance of two schoeni from the river isSais, and a little above it the asylum ofOsiris, in which it is saidOsiris is buried. This, however, is questioned by many persons, and particularly by the inhabitants ofPhilae, which is situated aboveSyene andElephantine. These people tell this tale, thatIsis placed coffins ofOsiris in various places, but that one only contained the body ofOsiris, so that no one knew which of them it was; and that she did this with the intention of concealing it fromTyphon, who might come and cast the body out of its place of deposit.
§ 17.1.24 This is the description of the country fromAlexandreia to the vertex of the Delta.
Artemidorus says, that the navigation up the river is 28 schoeni, which amount to 840 stadia, reckoning the schoenus at 30 stadia. When we ourselves sailed up the river, schoeni of different measures were used at different places in giving the distances, so that sometimes the received schoenus was a measure of 40 stadia and even more. That the measure of the schoenus was unsettled among theEgyptians,Artemidorus himself shows in a subsequent place. In reckoning the distance fromMemphis toThebais, he says that each schoenus consists of 120 stadia, and from theThebais toSyene of 60 stadia. In sailing up fromPelusium to the same vertex of the Delta, is a distance, he says, of 25 schoeni, or 750 stadia, and he employs the same measure.
On setting out fromPelusium, the first canal met with is that which fills the lakes, 'near the marshes,' as they are called. There are two of these lakes, situated upon the left hand of the great stream abovePelusium inArabia. He mentions other lakes also, and canals in the same parts beyond the Delta.
The Sethroite Nome extends along one of the two lakes. He reckons this as one of the ten nomes in the Delta. There are two other canals, which discharge themselves into the same lakes.
§ 17.1.25 There is another canal also, which empties itself into theRed Sea, orArabian Gulf, near the cityArsinoe, which some callCleopatris. It flows through the Bitter Lakes, as they are called, which were bitter formerly, but when the above-mentioned canal was cut, the bitter quality was altered by their junction with the river, and at present they contain excellent fish, and abound with aquatic birds.
The canal was first cut bySesostris before theTrojan times, but according to other writers, by the son ofPsammitichus, who only began the work, and afterwards died; lastly,Darius the First succeeded to the completion of the undertaking, but he desisted from continuing the work, when it was nearly finished, influenced by an erroneous opinion that the level of theRed Sea was higher thanEgypt, and that if the whole of the intervening isthmus were cut through, the country would be overflowed by the sea. The Ptolemaic kings however did cut through it, and placed locks upon the canal, so that they sailed, when they pleased, without obstruction into the outer sea, and back again [into the canal].
We have spoken of the surfaces of bodies of water in the first part of this work.
§ 17.1.26 NearArsinoe are situated in the recess of theArabian Gulf towardsEgypt,Heroopolis andCleopatris; harbours, suburbs, many canals, and lakes are also near. There also is the Phagroriopolite Nome, and the city Phagroriopolis. The canal, which empties itself into theRed Sea, begins at the villagePhakousa, to which the village ofPhilon is contiguous. The canal is 100 cubits broad, and its depth sufficient to float a vessel of large burden. These places are near the apex of the Delta.
§ 17.1.27 There also are the cityBubastus and the Bubastite Nome, and above it the Heliopolite Nome. There too isHeliopolis, situated upon a large mound. It contains a temple of the sun, and theoxMneyis, which is kept in a sanctuary, and is regarded by the inhabitants as a god, asApis is regarded by the people ofMemphis. In front of the mound are lakes, into which the neighbouring canal discharges itself. At present the city is entirely deserted. It has an ancient temple constructed after theEgyptian manner, bearing many proofs of the madness and sacrilegious acts ofCambyses, who did very great injury to the temples, partly by fire, partly by violence, mutilating [in some] cases, and applying fire [in others]. In this manner he injured the obelisks, two of which, that were not entirely spoilt, were transported toRome. There are others both here and atThebes, the presentDiospolis, some of which are standing, much corroded by fire, and others lying on the ground.
§ 17.1.28 The plan of the temples is as follows.
At the entrance into the temenus is a paved floor, in breadth about a plethrum, or even less; its length is three or four times as great, and in some instances even more. This part is called Dromos, and is mentioned byCallimachus, "this is the Dromos, sacred toAnubis." Throughout the whole length on each side are placed stone sphinxes, at the distance of 20 cubits or a little more from each other, so that there is one row of sphinxes on the right hand, and another on the left. Next after the sphinxes is a large propylon, then on proceeding further, another propylon, and then another. Neither the number of the propyla nor of the sphinxes is determined by any rule. They are different in different temples, as well as the length and breadth of theDromi.
Next to the propyla is the naos, which has a large and considerable pronaos; the sanctuary in proportion; there is no statue, at least not in human shape, but a representation of some of the brute animals. On each side of the pronaos project what are called the wings. These are two walls of equal height with the naos. At first the distance between them is a little more than the breadth of the foundation of the naos. As you proceed onwards, the [base] lines incline towards one another till they approach within 50 or 60 cubits. These walls have large sculptured figures, very much like theTyrrhenian (Etruscan) and very ancient works among the Greeks.
There is also a building with a great number of pillars, as atMemphis, in the barbaric style; for, except the magnitude and number and rows of pillars, there is nothing pleasing nor easily described, but rather a display of labour wasted.
§ 17.1.29 AtHeliopolis we saw large buildings in which the priests lived. For it is said that anciently this was the principal residence of the priests, who studied philosophy and astronomy. But there are no longer either such a body of persons or such pursuits. No one was pointed out to us on the spot, as presiding over these studies, but only persons who performed sacred rites, and who explained to strangers [the peculiarities of] the temples.
A person of the name ofChaeremon accompanied the governor,Aelius Gallus, in his journey fromAlexandreia intoEgypt, and pretended to some knowledge of this kind, but he was generally ridiculed for his boasting and ignorance. The houses of the priests, and the residences ofPlato and ofEudoxus, were shown to us.Eudoxus came here withPlato, and, according to some writers, lived thirteen years in the society of the priests. For the latter were distinguished for their knowledge of the heavenly bodies, but were mysterious and uncommunicative, yet after a time were prevailed upon by courtesy to acquaint them with some of the principles of their science, but the barbarians concealed the greater part of them. They had, however, communicated the knowledge of the additional portions of the day and night, in the space of 365 days, necessary to complete the annual period; and, at that time, the length of the year was unknown to the Greeks, as were many other things, until later astronomers received them from the persons who translated the records of the priests into the Greek language, and even now derive knowledge from their writings and from those of theChaldeans.
§ 17.1.30 AfterHeliopolis is the 'Nile above the Delta.' The country on the right hand, as you go up theNile, is calledLibya, as well as that nearAlexandreia and the lakeMareotis; the country on the left hand is calledArabia. The territory belonging toHeliopolis is inArabia, but the city Cercesura is inLibya, and situated opposite to the observatory ofEudoxus. For there is shown an observing station in front ofHeliopolis, as there is in front ofCnidus, whereEudoxus marked certain motions of the heavenly bodies. This is the Letopolite Nome.
In sailing up the river we meet withBabylon, a strong fortress, built by someBabylonians who had taken refuge there, and had obtained permission from the kings to establish a settlement in that place. At present it is an encampment for one of the three legions which garrisonEgypt. There is a mountainous ridge, which extends from the encampment as far as theNile. At this ridge are wheels and screws, by which water is raised from the river, and one hundred and fifty prisoners are [thus] employed.
Thepyramids on the other side [of the river] atMemphis may be clearly discerned from this place, for they are not far off.
§ 17.1.31 Memphis itself also, the residence of the kings ofEgypt, is near, being only three schoeni distant from the Delta. It contains sanctuaries, among which is thesanctuary ofApis, who is the same asOsiris. Here theoxApis is kept in a sort of temple, and is held, as I have said, to be a god. The forehead and some other small parts of its body are white; the other parts are black. By these marks the fitness of the successor is always determined, when the animal to which they pay these honours dies. In front of the sanctuary is a court, in which there is another sanctuary for the dam ofApis. . Into this court theApis is let loose at times, particularly for the purpose of exhibiting him to strangers. He is seen through a door in the sanctuary, and he is permitted to be seen also out of it. After he has frisked about a little in the court, he is taken back to his own stall.
The temple ofApis is near theHephaesteium (or temple ofVulcan); theHephaesteium itself is very sumptuously constructed, both as regards the size of the naos and in other respects. In front of the Dromos is a colossal figure consisting of a single stone. It is usual to celebrate bull-fights in this Dromos; thebulls are bred expressly for this purpose, likehorses. They are let loose, and fight with one another, the conqueror receiving a prize.
AtMemphis also there is a temple ofVenus, who is accounted a Grecian deity. But some say that it is a temple dedicated toSelene, or the moon.
§ 17.1.32 There is also a temple ofSarapis, situated in a very sandy spot, where the sand is accumulated in masses by the wind. Some of the sphinxes which we saw were buried in this sand up to the head, and one half only of others was visible. Hence we may conceive the danger, should any one, in his way to the temple, be surprised by a [sand] storm.
The city is large and populous; it ranks next toAlexandreia, and, like that place, is inhabited by mixed races of people. There are lakes in front of the city and of the palaces, which at present are in ruins and deserted. They are situated upon an eminence, and extend as far as the lower part of the city.
Close to this place are a grove and a lake.
§ 17.1.33 At the distance of 40 stadia fromMemphis is a brow of a hill, on which are manypyramids, the tombs of the kings. Three of them are considerable. Two of these are reckoned among the seven wonders [of the world]. They are a stadium in height, and of a quadrangular shape. Their height somewhat exceeds the length of each of the sides. Onepyramid is a little larger than the other. At a moderate height in one of the sides is a stone, which may be taken out; when that is removed, there is an oblique passage [leading] to the tomb. They are near each other, and upon the same level. Farther on, at a greater height of the mountain, is the thirdpyramid, which is much less than the two others, but constructed at much greater expense; for from the foundation nearly as far as the middle, it is built of black stone. Mortars are made of this stone, which is brought from a great distance; for it comes from the mountains ofEthiopia, and being hard and difficult to be worked, the labour is attended with great expense. It is said to be the tomb of a courtesan, built by her lovers, and whose name, according toSappho the poetess, wasDoriche. She was the mistress of her brotherCharaxus, who traded to the port ofNaucratis with wine ofLesbos. Others call herRhodopis. A story is told of her, that, when she was bathing, aneagle snatched one of her sandals from the hands of her female attendant and carried it toMemphis; theeagle soaring over the head of the king, who was administering justice at the time, let the sandal fall into his lap. The king, struck with the shape of the sandal, and the singularity of the accident, sent over the country to discover the woman to whom it belonged. She was found in the city ofNaucratis, and brought to the king, who made her his wife. At her death she was honoured with the above-mentioned tomb.
§ 17.1.34 One extraordinary thing which I saw at thepyramids must not be omitted. Heaps of stones from the quarries lie in front of the pyramids. Among these are found pieces which in shape and size resemble lentils. Some contain substances like grains half peeled. These, it is said, are the remnants of the workmen's food converted into stone; which is not probable. For at home in our country (Amasia), there is a long hill in a plain, which abounds with pebbles of a porus stone, resembling lentils. The pebbles of the sea-shore and of rivers suggest somewhat of the same difficulty [respecting their origin]; some explanation may indeed be found in the motion [to which these are subject] in flowing waters, but the investigation of the above fact presents more difficulty. I have said elsewhere, that in sight of thepyramids, on the other side inArabia, and near the stone quarries from which they are built, is a very rocky mountain, called theTrojan mountain; beneath it there are caves, and near the caves and the river a village calledTroy, an ancient settlement of the captiveTrojans who had accompaniedMenelaus and settled there.
§ 17.1.35 Next toMemphis is the cityAcanthus, situated also inLibya, and the temple ofOsiris, and the grove of the Thebaic acantha, from which gum is procured. Next is the Aphroditopolite Nome, and the city inArabia of the same name, where is kept a whitecow, considered sacred. Then follows theHeracleote Nome, in a large island, near which is the canal on the right hand, which leads intoLibya, in the direction of the Arsinoite Nome; so that the canal has two entrances, a part of the island on one side being interposed between them. This nome is the most considerable of all in appearance, natural properties, and embellishment. It is the only nome planted with large, full-grown olive trees, which bear fine fruit. If the produce were carefully collected, good oil might be obtained; but this care is neglected, and although a large quantity of oil is obtained, yet it has a disagreeable smell. (The rest ofEgypt is without the olive tree, except the gardens nearAlexandreia, which are planted with olive trees, but do not furnish any oil.) It produces wine in abundance, corn, pulse, and a great variety of other grains. It has also the remarkable lakeMoeris, which in extent is a sea, and the colour of its waters resembles that of the sea. Its borders also are like the sea-shore, so that we may make the same suppositions respecting these as about the country nearAmmon. For they are not very far distant from one another and fromParaetonium; and we may conjecture from a multitude of proofs, that as the temple ofAmmon was once situated upon the sea, so this tract of country also bordered on the sea at some former period. But LowerEgypt and the country as far as the LakeSirbonis were sea, and confluent perhaps with theRed Sea atHeroopolis, and theAelanitic recess of the gulf.
§ 17.1.36 We have treated these subjects at length in the First Book of the Geography. At present we shall make a few remarks on the operations of nature and of Providence conjointly. On the operations of nature, that all things converge to a point, namely, the centre of the whole, and assume a spherical shape around it. The earth is the densest body, and nearer the centre than all others: the less dense and next to it is water; but both land and water are spheres, the first solid, the second hollow, containing the earth within it.— On the operations of Providence, that it has exercised a will, is disposed to variety, and is the artificer of innumerable works. In the first rank, as greatly surpassing all the rest, is the generation of animals, of which the most excellent are gods and men, for whose sake the rest were formed. To the gods Providence assigned heaven; and the earth to men, the extreme parts of the world; for the extreme parts of the sphere are the centre and the circumference. But since water encompasses the earth, and man is not an aquatic, but a land-animal, living in the air, and requiring much light, Providence formed many eminences and cavities in the earth, so that these cavities should receive the whole or a great part of the water which covers the land beneath it; and that the eminences should rise and conceal the water beneath them, except so much as was necessary for the use of the human race, the animals and plants about it.
But as all things are in constant motion, and undergo great changes, (for it is not possible that things of such a nature, so numerous and vast, could be otherwise regulated in the world,) we must not suppose the earth or the water always to continue in this state, so as to retain perpetually the same bulk, without increase or diminution, or that each preserves the same fixed place, particularly as the reciprocal change of one into the other is most consonant to nature from their proximity; but that much of the land is changed into water, and a great portion of water becomes land, just as we observe great differences in the earth itself. For one kind of earth crumbles easily, another is solid and rocky, and contains iron; and so of others. There is also a variety in the quality of water; for some waters are saline, others sweet and potable, others medicinal, and either salutary or noxious, others cold or hot Is it therefore surprising that some parts of the earth which are now inhabited should formerly have been occupied by sea, and that what are now seas should formerly have been inhabited land ? so also fountains once existing have failed, and others have burst forth; and similarly in the case of rivers and lakes: again, mountains and plains have been converted reciprocally one into the other. On this subject I have spoken before at length, and now let this be said:
§ 17.1.37 The lakeMoeris, by its magnitude and depth, is able to sustain the superabundance of water which flows into it at the time of the rise of the river, without overflowing the inhabited and cultivated parts of the country. On the decrease of the water of the river, it distributes the excess by the same canal at each of the mouths; and both the lake and the canal preserve a remainder, which is used for irrigation. These are the natural and independent properties of the lake, but in addition, on both mouths of the canal are placed locks, by which the engineers store up and distribute the water which enters or issues from the canal.
We have here also theLabyrinth, a work equal to thePyramids, and adjoining to it the tomb of the king who constructed theLabyrinth. After proceeding beyond the first entrance of the canal about 30 or 40 stadia, there is a table-shaped plain, with a village and a large palace composed of as many palaces as there were formerly nomes. There are an equal number of aulae, surrounded by pillars, and contiguous to one another, all in one line and forming one building, like a long wall having the aulae in front of it. The entrances into the aulae are opposite to the wall. In front of the entrances there are long and numerous covered ways, with winding passages communicating with each other, so that no stranger could find his way into the aulae or out of them without a guide. The (most) surprising circumstance is that the roofs of these dwellings consist of a single stone each, and that the covered ways through their whole range were roofed in the same manner with single slabs of stone of extraordinary size, without the intermixture of timber or of any other material. On ascending the roof,— which is not of great height for it consists only of a single story,— there may be seen a stone-field, thus composed of stones. Descending again and looking into the aulae, these may be seen in a line supported by twenty-seven pillars, each consisting of a single stone. The walls also are constructed of stones not inferior in size to these.
At the end of this building, which occupies more than a stadium, is the tomb, which is a quadrangular pyramid, each side of which is about four plethra in length, and of equal height. The name of the person buried there is Imandes. They built, it is said, this number of aulae, because it was the custom for all the nomes to assemble there together according to their rank, with their own priests and priestesses, for the purpose of performing sacrifices and making offerings to the gods, and of administering justice in matters of great importance. Each of the nomes was conducted to the aula appointed for it.
§ 17.1.38 Sailing along to the distance of 100 stadia, we come to the cityArsinoe, formerly calledCrocodilopolis; for the inhabitants of this nome worship the crocodile. The animal is accounted sacred, and kept apart by himself in a lake; it is tame, and gentle to the priests, and is calledSuchus. It is fed with bread, flesh, and wine, which strangers who come to see it always present. Our host, a distinguished person, who was our guide in examining what was curious, accompanied us to the lake, and brought from the supper table a small cake, dressed meat, and a small vessel containing a mixture of honey and milk. We found the animal lying on the edge of the lake. The priests went up to it; some of them opened its mouth, another put the cake into it, then the meat, and afterwards poured down the honey and milk. The animal then leaped into the lake, and crossed to the other side. When another stranger arrived with his offering, the priests took it, and running round the lake, caught the crocodile, and gave him what was brought, in the same manner as before.
§ 17.1.39 Next after the Arsinoite and Heracleotic Nomes, is the city ofHercules, in which the ichneumon is worshipped, in opposition to theArsinoites, who worship crocodiles; hence the canal and the lakeMoeris is full of these animals, for they venerate them, and are careful to do them no harm: but theHeracleotae worship the ichneumon, which is most destructive both to crocodiles and asps. The ichneumons destroy not only the eggs of the latter, but the animals themselves. The ichneumons are protected by a covering of mud, in which they roll, and then dry themselves in the sun. They then seize the asps by the head or tail, and dragging them into the river, so kill them.
They lie in wait for the crocodiles, when the latter are basking in the sun with their mouths open; they then drop into their jaws, and eating through their intestines and belly, issue out of the dead body.
§ 17.1.40 Next follows the Cynopolite Nome andCynopolis, where they worship thedogAnubis, and pay certain honours todogs; a subsistence is there provided for them, as sacred animals.
On the other side of the river is the cityOxyrynchus, and a nome of the same name. They worship the oxyrynchus, and have a temple dedicated to this animal; but all the otherEgyptians worship the oxyrynchus. For all theEgyptians worship in common certain animals; three among the land animals, theox, thedog, and thecat; two among the winged tribe, the hawk and the ibis; and two of the aquatic animals, the fish lepidotus and the oxyrynchus. There are also other animals which each people, independently of others, worship; as theSaitae and Thebaitae, asheep; theLatopolitae, the latus, a fish inhabiting theNile; the people ofLycopolis, awolf; those ofHermopolis, the cynocephalus; those ofBabylon, nearMemphis, a cephus, which has the countenance of a satyr, and in other respects is between adog and a bear; it is bred inEthiopia. The inhabitants ofThebes worship aneagle; theLeontopolitae, alion; theMendesians, a male and femalegoat; theAthribitae, a shrewmouse; different people worshipping different animals. They do not, however, assign the same reasons for this difference of worship.
§ 17.1.41 Then follows the Hermopolite Castle, a place where is collected the toll on merchandise brought down from theThebais. At this place begins the reckoning by schoeni of sixty stadia each, which is continued toSyene andElephantine. Next is the Thebaic Keep, and a canal leading toTanis. Then followLycopolis,Aphroditopolis, andPanopolis, an old settlement belonging to masons and weavers of linen.
§ 17.1.42 Then followsPtolemais, the largest city in theThebais, not inferior toMemphis, with a form of government after the Grecian mode. Above this city isAbydos, where is the palace ofMemnon, constructed in a singular manner, entirely of stone, and after the plan of theLabyrinth, which we have described, but not composed of many parts. It has a fountain situated at a great depth. There is a descent to it through an arched passage built with single stones, of remarkable size and workmanship.
There is a canal which leads to this place from the great river. About the canal is a grove ofEgyptian acanthus, dedicated toApollo.Abydos seems once to have been a large city, second toThebes. At present it is a small town. But if, as they say,Memnon is called Ismandes by theEgyptians, theLabyrinth might be aMemnonium, and the work of the same person who constructed those atAbydos and atThebes; for in those places, it is said, are someMemnonia. In the latitude ofAbydos is the first Auasis (Oasis) of the three which are said to be in Africa. It is distant fromAbydos a journey of seven days through a desert. It is an inhabited place, well supplied with good water and wine, and sufficiently provided with other articles. The second is that near the lakeMoeris. The third is that at theoracle of Ammon: these are considerable settlements.
§ 17.1.43 Having before spoken at length of the temple ofAmmon, we wish to add this only, that in ancient times divination in general and oracles were held in greater esteem than at present. Now they are greatly neglected ; for the Romans are satisfied with the oracles of theSibyl, and withTyrrhenian divination by the entrails of animals, the flight of birds, and portentous appearances. Hence the oracle ofAmmon, which was formerly held in great esteem, is now nearly deserted. This appears chiefly from the historians who have recorded the actions ofAlexander, adding, indeed, much that has the appearance of flattery, but yet relating what is worthy of credit.Callisthenes, for instance, says thatAlexander was ambitious of the glory of visiting the oracle, because he knew thatPerseus andHercules had before performed the journey thither. He set out fromParaetonium, although the south winds were blowing, and succeeded in his undertaking by vigour and perseverance. When out of his way on the road, he escaped being overwhelmed in a sand-storm by a fall of rain, and by the guidance of twocrows, which directed his course. These things are stated by way of flattery, as also what follows: that the priest permitted the king alone to pass into the temple in his usual dress, whereas the others changed theirs; that all heard the oracles on the outside of the temple, exceptAlexander, who was in the interior of the building; that the answers were not given, as atDelphi and atBranchidae, in words, but chiefly by nods and signs, as inHomer; "the son ofSaturn nodded with his sable brows," the prophet imitatingJupiter. This, however, the man told the king, in express terms, that he was the son ofJupiter.Callisthenes adds, (after the exaggerating style of tragedy,) that whenApollo had deserted the oracle among theBranchidae, on the temple being plundered by theBranchidae (who espoused the party of thePersians in the time ofXerxes,) and the spring had failed, it then re-appeared (on the arrival ofAlexander); that the ambassadors also of theMilesians carried back toMemphis numerous answers of the oracle respecting the descent ofAlexander fromJupiter, and the future victory which he should obtain atArbela, the death ofDarius, and the political changes atLacedaemon. He says also that theErythraeanAthenais, who resembled the ancientErythraeanSibyl, had declared the high descent ofAlexander. Such are the accounts of historians.
§ 17.1.44 AtAbydosOsiris is worshipped; but in the temple ofOsiris no singer, nor player on the pipe, nor on the cithara, is permitted to perform at the commencement of the ceremonies celebrated in honour of the god, as is usual in rites celebrated in honour of the other gods. Next toAbydos is the lesserDiospolis, then the cityTentyra, where the crocodile is held in peculiar abhorrence, and is regarded as the most odious of all animals. For the otherEgyptians, although acquainted with its mischievous disposition, and hostility towards the human race, yet worship it, and abstain from doing it harm. But the people ofTentyra track and destroy it in every way. Some however, as they say of thePsyllians ofCyrenaea, possess a certain natural antipathy tosnakes, and the people ofTentyra have the same dislike to crocodiles, yet they suffer no injury from them, but dive and cross the river when no other person ventures to do so. When crocodiles were brought toRome to be exhibited, they were attended by some of theTentyritae. A reservoir was made for them with a sort of stage on one of the sides, to form a basking-place for them on coming out of the water, and these persons went into the water, drew them in a net to the place, where they might sun themselves and be exhibited, and then dragged them back again to the reservoir. The people ofTentyra worshipVenus. At the back of the fane ofVenus is a temple ofIsis ; then follow what are called the Typhoneia, and the canal leading toCoptos, a city common both to theEgyptians andArabians.
§ 17.1.45 Then follows the isthmus, extending to theRed Sea nearBerenice, which has no harbour, but good landing-places, because the isthmus is conveniently situated.Philadelphus is said to be the first person that opened, by means of his army, this road, which had no supply of water, and to have provided stations. This he did because the navigation of theRed Sea was difficult, particularly to those who set out from the recess of the bay. Experience showed the great utility of this plan, and at present all theIndian,Arabian, and suchEthiopian merchandise as is imported by theArabian Gulf is carried toCoptos, which is the mart for such commodities. Not far fromBerenice isMyos Hormus, a city with a naval station for vessels which navigate this sea; at no great distance fromCoptos is the city ofApollo, so that two cities are the boundaries of the isthmus, one on each side. But at presentCoptos andMyos Hormus are in repute, and they are frequented.
Formerly, thecamel-merchants travelled in the night, directing their course by observing the stars, and, like mariners, carried with them a supply of water. But now watering-places are provided: water is also obtained by digging to a great depth, and rain-water is found, although rain rarely falls, which is also collected in reservoirs. It is a journey of six or seven days.
On this isthmus are mines, in which the emeralds and other precious stones are found by theArabians, who dig deep subterraneous passages.
§ 17.1.46 Next to the city ofApollo isThebes, now calledDiospolis, "with her hundred gates, through each of which issue two hundred men, withhorses and chariots," according toHomer, who mentions also its wealth; "not all the wealth the palaces ofEgyptianThebes contain."
Other writers use the same language, and considerThebes as the metropolis ofEgypt. Vestiges of its magnitude still exist, which extend 80 stadia in length. There are a great number of temples, many of whichCambyses mutilated. The spot is at present occupied by villages. One part of it, in which is the city, lies inArabia; another is in the country on the other side of the river, where is theMemnonium. Here are two colossal figures near one another, each consisting of a single stone. One is entire; the upper parts of the other, from the chair, are fallen down, the effect, it is said, of an earthquake. It is believed, that once a day a noise as of a slight blow issues from the part of the statue which remains in the seat and on its base. When I was at those places withAelius Gallus, and numerous friends and soldiers about him, I heard a noise at the first hour (of the day), but whether proceeding from the base or from the colossus, or produced on purpose by some of those standing around the base, I cannot confidently assert. For from the uncertainty of the cause, I am disposed to believe anything rather than that stones disposed in that manner could send forth sound.
Above theMemnonium are tombs of kings in caves, and hewn out of the stone, about forty in number; they are executed with singular skill, and are worthy of notice. Among the tombs are obelisks with inscriptions, denoting the wealth of the kings of that time, and the extent of their empire, as reaching to theScythians,Bactrians,Indians, and the presentIonia; the amount of tribute also, and the number of soldiers, which composed an army of about a million of men.
The priests there are said to be, for the most part, astronomers and philosophers. The former compute the days, not by the moon, but by the sun, introducing into the twelve months of thirty days each five days every year. But in order to complete the whole year, because there is (annually) an excess of a part of a day, they form a period from out of whole days and whole years, the supernumerary portions of which in that period, when collected together, amount to a day. They ascribe toMercury all knowledge of this kind. ToJupiter, whom they worship above all other deities, a virgin of the greatest beauty and of the most illustrious family (such persons the Greeks call pallades) is dedicated. She prostitutes herself with whom she pleases, until the time occurs for the natural purification of the body; she is afterwards married; but before her marriage, and after the period of prostitution, they mourn for her as for one dead.
§ 17.1.47 Next afterThebes is the cityHermonthis, in which bothApollo andJupiter are worshipped. They also keep anox there (for worship).
Next is thecity of Crocodiles, the inhabitants of which worship this animal; thenAphroditopolis, and next to it,Latopolis, whereMinerva is worshipped, and the (fish)Latus; next, theEileithyias polis, and a temple. In the country on the other side of the river isHieraconpolis (the city of hawks), where a hawk is worshipped; thenApollonopolis, the inhabitants of which are at war with crocodiles.
§ 17.1.48 Syene is a city situated on the borders ofEthiopia andEgypt.Elephantine is an island in theNile, at the distance of half a stadium in front ofSyene; in this island is a city with a temple of Cnuphis, and a nilometer like that atMemphis. The nilometer is a well upon the banks of theNile, constructed of close-fitting stones, on which are marked the greatest, least, and mean risings of theNile; for the water in the well and in the river rises and subsides simultaneously. Upon the wall of the well are lines, which indicate the complete rise of the river, and other degrees of its rising. Those who examine these marks communicate the result to the public for their information. For it is known long before, by these marks, and by the time elapsed from the commencement, what the future rise of the river will be, and notice is given of it. This information is of service to the husbandmen with reference to the distribution of the water; for the purpose also of attending to the embankments, canals, and other things of this kind. It is of use also to the governors, who fix the revenue; for the greater the rise of the river, the greater it is expected will be the revenue.
AtSyene there is a well which indicates the summer solstice, because these places lie under the tropical circle, [and occasions the gnomons to cast no shadows at midday]. For on proceeding from the places in our country, in Greece I mean, towards the south, the sun is there first over our head, and occasions the gnomons to be without shadows at noon. When the sun is vertical to us, it must necessarily cast its rays down wells, however deep they may be, to the water. For we ourselves stand in a perpendicular position, and wells are dug perpendicular to the surface.
Here are stationed three Roman cohorts as a guard.
§ 17.1.49 A little aboveElephantine is the lesser cataract, where the boatmen exhibit a sort of spectacle to the governors.
The cataract is in the middle of the river, and is formed by a ridge of rock, the upper part [or commencement] of which is level, and thus capable of receiving the river, but terminating in a precipice, where the water dashes down. On each side towards the land there is a stream, up which is the chief ascent for vessels. The boatmen sail up by this stream, and, dropping down to the cataract, are impelled with the boat to the precipice, the crew and the boats escaping unhurt.
A little above the cataract isPhilae, a common settlement, likeElephantine, ofEthiopians andEgyptians, and equal in size, containingEgyptian temples, where a bird, which they call hierax, (the hawk,) is worshipped; but it did not appear to me to resemble in the least the hawks of our country nor ofEgypt, for it was larger, and very different in the marks of its plumage. They said that the bird wasEthiopian, and is brought fromEthiopia when its predecessor dies, or before its death. The one shown to us when we were there was sick and nearly dead.
§ 17.1.50 We came fromSyene toPhilae in a waggon, through a very flat country, a distance of about 100 stadia. Along the whole road on each side we could see, in many places, very high rocks, round, very smooth, and nearly spherical, of black hard stone, of which mortars are made: each rested upon a greater stone, and upon this another: they were like hermaea. Sometimes these stones consisted of one mass. The largest was not less than twelve feet in diameter, and all of them exceeded this size by one half. We crossed over to the island in a pacton, which is a small boat made of rods, whence it resembles woven-work. Standing then in the water, (at the bottom of the boat,) or sitting upon some little planks, we easily crossed over, with some alarm indeed, but without good cause for it, as there is no danger if the boat is not overloaded.
§ 17.1.51 Throughout the whole ofEgypt, the palm tree is of a bad species, and produces no good edible fruit in the places about the Delta andAlexandreia; yet the best kind is found in theThebais. It is a subject of surprise how countries in the same latitude asJudaea, and bordering upon the Delta andAlexandreia, should be so different; forJudaea, in addition to other kinds of date-palms, produces the caryotic, which is not inferior to theBabylonian. There are, however, two kinds of dates in theThebais and inJudaea, the caryotic and another. The Thebaic is firmer, but the flavour is more agreeable. There is an island remarkable for producing the best dates, and it also furnishes the largest revenue to the governors. It was appropriated to the kings, and no private person had any share in the produce; at present it belongs to the governors.
§ 17.1.52 Herodotus and other writers trifle very much when they introduce into their histories the marvellous, like (an interlude of) music and song, or some melody; for example, in asserting that the sources of theNile are near the numerous islands, atSyene andElephantine, and that at this spot the river has an unfathomable depth. In theNile there are many islands scattered about, some of which are entirely covered, others in part only, at the time of the rise of the waters. The very elevated parts are irrigated by means of screw-pumps.
§ 17.1.53 Egypt was from the first disposed to peace, from having resources within itself, and because it was difficult of access to strangers. It was also protected on the north by a harbourless coast and theEgyptian Sea; on the east and west by the desert mountains ofLibya andArabia, as I have said before. The remaining parts towards the south are occupied byTroglodytae, Blemmyes,Nubae, andMegabari,Ethiopians aboveSyene. These are nomads, and not numerous nor warlike, but accounted so by the ancients, because frequently, like robbers, they attacked defenceless persons. Neither are theEthiopians, who extend towards the south andMeroe, numerous nor collected in a body; for they inhabit a long, narrow, and winding tract of land on the riverside, such as we have before described; nor are they well prepared either for war or the pursuit of any other mode of life.
At present the whole country is in the same pacific state, a proof of which is, that the upper country is sufficiently guarded by three cohorts, and these not complete. Whenever theEthiopians have ventured to attack them, it has been at the risk of danger to their own country. The rest of the forces inEgypt are neither very numerous, nor did the Romans ever once employ them collected into one army. For neither are theEgyptians themselves of a warlike disposition, nor the surrounding nations, although their numbers are very large.
Cornelius Gallus, the first governor of the country appointed by (Augustus)Caesar, attacked the cityHeroopolis, which had revolted, and took it with a small body of men. He suppressed also in a short time an insurrection in theThebais, which originated as to the payment of tribute. At a later periodPetronius resisted, with the soldiers about his person, a mob of myriads of Alexandrines, who attacked him by throwing stones. He killed some, and compelled the rest to desist.
We have before related howAelius Gallus, when he invadedArabia with a part of the army stationed inEgypt, exhibited a proof of the unwarlike disposition of the people; and ifSyllaeus had not betrayed him, he would have conquered the whole ofArabia Felix.
§ 17.1.54 TheEthiopians, emboldened in consequence of a part of the forces inEgypt being drawn off byAelius Gallus, who was engaged in war with theArabs, invaded theThebais, and attacked the garrison, consisting of three cohorts, nearSyene; surprised and tookSyene,Elephantine, andPhilae, by a sudden inroad; enslaved the inhabitants, and threw down the statues ofCaesar. ButPetronius, marching with less than 10,000 infantry and 800horse against an army of 30,000 men, first compelled them to retreat toPselchis, anEthiopian city. He then sent deputies to demand restitution of what they had taken, and the reasons which had induced them to begin the war. On their alleging that they had been ill treated by the nomarchs, he answered, that these were not the sovereigns of the country, butCaesar. When they desired three days for consideration, and did nothing which they were bound to do,Petronius attacked and compelled them to fight. They soon fled, being badly commanded, and badly armed; for they carried large shields made of raw hides, and hatchets for offensive weapons; some, however, had pikes, and others swords. Part of the insurgents were driven into the city, others fled into the uninhabited country; and such as ventured upon the passage of the river escaped to a neighbouring island, where there were not many crocodiles on account of the current. Among the fugitives, were the generals ofCandace, queen of theEthiopians in our time, a masculine woman, and who had lost an eye.Petronius, pursuing them in rafts and ships, took them all and despatched them immediately toAlexandreia. He then attackedPselchis and took it. If we add the number of those who fell in battle to the number of prisoners, few only could have escaped.
FromPselchisPetronius went toPremnis, a strong city, travelling over the hills of sand, beneath which the army ofCambyses was overwhelmed by the setting in of a whirlwind. He took the fortress at the first onset, and afterwards advanced toNapata. This was the royal seat ofCandace ; and her son was there, but she herself was in a neighbouring stronghold. When she sent ambassadors to treat of peace, and to offer the restitution of the prisoners brought fromSyene, and the statues,Petronius attacked and tookNapata, from which her son had fled, and then razed it. He made prisoners of the inhabitants, and returned back again with the booty, as he judged any farther advance into the country impracticable on account of the roads. He strengthened, however, the fortifications ofPremnis, and having placed a garrison there, with two years' provisions for four hundred men, returned toAlexandreia. Some of the prisoners were publicly sold as booty, and a thousand were sent toCaesar, who had lately returned from theCantabrians, others died of various diseases.
In the mean timeCandace attacked the garrison with an army of many thousand men.Petronius came to its assistance, and entering the fortress before the approach of the enemy, secured the place by many expedients. The enemy sent ambassadors, but he ordered them to repair toCaesar: on their replying, that they did not know whoCaesar was, nor where they were to find him,Petronius appointed persons to conduct them to his presence. They arrived atSamos, whereCaesar was at that time, and from whence he was on the point of proceeding intoSyria, having already despatchedTiberius intoArmenia. The ambassadors obtained all that they desired, andCaesar even remitted the tribute which he had imposed.
§ 17.2.1 IN the preceding part of this work we have spoken at length ofEthiopia, so that its description may be said to be included in that ofEgypt.
In general, then, the extreme parts of the habitable world adjacent to the intemperate region, which is not habitable by reason either of heat or cold, must necessarily be defective and inferior, in respect to physical advantages, to the temperate region. This is evident from the mode of life of the inhabitants, and their want of what is requisite for the use and subsistence of man. For the mode of life [of theEthiopians] is wretched; they are for the most part naked, and wander from place to place with their flocks. Their flocks and herds are small in size, whethersheep,goats, oroxen; thedogs also, though fierce and quarrelsome, are small. It was perhaps from the diminutive size of these people, that the story of thePygmies originated, whom no person, worthy of credit, has asserted that he himself has seen.
§ 17.2.2 They live on millet and barley, from which also a drink is prepared. They have no oil, but use butter and fat instead. There are no fruits, except the produce of trees in the royal gardens. Some feed even upon grass, the tender twigs of trees, the lotus, or the roots of reeds. They live also upon the flesh and blood of animals, milk, and cheese. They reverence their kings as gods, who are for the most part shut up in their palaces.
Their largest royal seat is the city ofMeroe, of the same name as the island. The shape of the island is said to be that of a shield. Its size is perhaps exaggerated. Its length is about 3000, and its breadth 1000 stadia. It is very mountainous, and contains great forests. The inhabitants are nomads, who are partly hunters and partly husbandmen. There are also mines of copper, iron, gold, and various kinds of precious stones. It is surrounded on the side ofLibya by great hills of sand, and on that ofArabia by continuous precipices. In the higher parts on the south, it is bounded by the confluent streams of the riversAstaboras,Astapus, andAstasobas. On the north is the continuous course of theNile toEgypt, with its windings, of which we have spoken before. The houses in the cities are formed by interweaving split pieces of palm wood or of bricks. They have fossil salt, as inArabia. Palm, the persea (peach), ebony, and carob trees are found in abundance. They hunt elephants,lions, and panthers. There are alsoserpents, which encounter elephants, and there are many other kinds of wild animals, which take refuge, from the hotter and parched districts, in watery and marshy districts.
§ 17.2.3 AboveMeroe is Psebo, a large lake, containing a well-inhabited island. As theLibyans occupy the western bank of theNile, and theEthiopians the country on the other side of the river, they thus dispute by turns the possession of the islands and the banks of the river, one party repulsing the other, or yielding to the superiority of its opponent.
TheEthiopians use bows of wood four cubits long, and hardened in the fire. The women also are armed, most of whom wear in the upper lip a copper ring. They wear sheepskins, without wool; for thesheep have hair likegoats. Some go naked, or wear small skins or girdles of well-woven hair round the loins.
They regard as God one being who is immortal, the cause of all things; another who is mortal, a being without a name, whose nature is not clearly understood.
In general they consider as gods benefactors and royal persons, some of whom are their kings, the common saviours and guardians of all; others are private persons, esteemed as gods by those who have individually received benefits from them.
Of those who inhabit the torrid region, some are even supposed not to acknowledge any god, and are said to abhor even the sun, and to apply opprobrious names to him, when they behold him rising, because he scorches and tortures them with his heat; these people take refuge in the marshes.
The inhabitants ofMeroe worshipHercules,Pan, andIsis, besides some other barbaric deity.
Some tribes throw the dead into the river; others keep them in the house, enclosed in hyalus (oriental alabaster ?). Some bury them around the temples in coffins of baked clay. They swear an oath by them, which is reverenced as more sacred than all others.
Kings are appointed from among persons distinguished for their personal beauty, or by their breeding ofcattle, or for their courage, or their riches.
InMeroe the priests anciently held the highest rank, and sometimes sent orders even to the king, by a messenger, to put an end to himself, when they appointed another king in his place. At last one of their kings abolished this custom, by going with an armed body to the temple where the golden shrine is, and slaughtering all the priests.
The following custom exists among theEthiopians. If a king is mutilated in any part of the body, those who are most attached to his person, as attendants, mutilate themselves in the same manner, and even die with him. Hence the king is guarded with the utmost care. This will suffice on the subject ofEthiopia.
§ 17.2.4 To what has been said concerningEgypt, we must add these peculiar products; for instance, theEgyptian bean, as it is called, from which is obtained the ciborium, and the papyrus, for it is found here and inIndia only; the persea (peach) grows here only, and inEthiopia; it is a lofty tree, and its fruit is large and sweet; the sycamine, which produces the fruit called the sycomorus, or fig-mulberry, for it resembles a fig, but its flavour is not esteemed. The corsium also (the root of theEgyptian lotus) grows there, a condiment like pepper, but a little larger.
There are in theNile fish in great quantity and of different kinds, having a peculiar and indigenous character. The best known are the oxyrynchus, and the lepidotus, the latus, the alabes, the coracinus, the choerus, the phagrorius, called also the phagrus. Besides these are the silurus, the citharus, the thrissa, the cestreus, the lychnus, the physa, the bous (orox), and large shell-fish which emit a sound like that of wailing
The animals peculiar to the country are the ichneumon and theEgyptianasp, having some properties which those in other places do not possess. There are two kinds, one a span in length, whose bite is more suddenly mortal than that of the other; the second is nearly an orguia in size, according toNicander, the author of the Theriaca.
Among the birds, are the ibis and theEgyptian hawk, which, like thecat, is more tame than those elsewhere. The nycticorax is here peculiar in its character; for with us it is as large as aneagle, and its cry is harsh; but inEgypt it is the size of a jay, and has a different note. The tamest animal, however, is the ibis; it resembles a stork in shape and size. There are two kinds, which differ in colour; one is like a stork, the other is entirely black. Every street inAlexandreia is full of them. In some respects they are useful; in others troublesome. They are useful, because they pick up all sorts of small animals and the offal thrown out of the butchers' and cooks' shops. They are troublesome, because they devour everything, are dirty, and with difficulty prevented from polluting in every way what is clean and what is not given to them.
§ 17.2.5 Herodotus truly relates of theEgyptians, that it is a practice peculiar to them to knead clay with their hands, and the dough for making bread with their feet. Caces is a peculiar kind of bread which restrains fluxes. Kiki (the castor-oil bean) is a kind of fruit sowed in furrows. An oil is expressed from it which is used for lamps almost generally throughout the country, but for anointing the body only by the poorer sort of people and labourers, both men and women.
The coccina areEgyptian textures made of some plant, woven like those made of rushes, or the palm-tree.
Barley beet is a preparation peculiar to theEgyptians. It is common among many tribes, but the mode of preparing it differs in each.
This, however, of all their usages is most to be admired, that they bring up all children that are born. They circumcise the males, and spay the females, as is the custom also among theJews, who are ofEgyptian origin, as I said when I was treating of them.
According toAristobulus, no fishes ascend theNile from the sea, except the cestreus, the thrissa, anddolphins, on account of the crocodiles; thedolphin, because it can get the better of the crocodile; the cestreus, because it is accompanied by the choeri along the bank, in consequence of some physical affinity subsisting between them. The crocodiles abstain from doing any hurt to the choeri, because they are of a round shape, and have spines on their heads, which are dangerous to them.. The cestreus runs up the river in spring, when in spawn; and descends a little before the setting of the pleiad, in great numbers, when about to cast it, at which time they are taken in shoals, by falling into inclosures (made for catching them). Such also, we may conjecture, is the reason why the thrissa is found there.
So much then on the subject ofEgypt.
§ 17.3.1 WE shall next describe Africa, which is the remaining portion of the whole description of the earth.
We have before said much respecting it; but at present I shall further describe what suits my purpose, and add what has not been previously mentioned.
The writers who have divided the habitable world according to continents, divide it unequally. But a threefold division denotes a division into three equal parts. Africa, however, wants so much of being a third part of the habitable world, that, even if it were united to Europe, it would not be equal toAsia; perhaps it is even less than Europe; in resources it is very much inferior, for a great part of the inland and maritime country is desert. It is spotted over with small habitable parts, which are scattered about, and mostly belonging to nomad tribes. Besides the desert state of the country, its being a nursery of wild beasts is a hindrance to settlement in parts which could be inhabited. It comprises also a large part of the torrid zone.
All the sea-coast in our quarter, situated between theNile and thePillars, particularly that which belonged to theCarthaginians, is fertile and inhabited. And even in this tract, some spots destitute of water intervene, as those about theSyrtes, theMarmaridae, and theCatabathmus.
The shape of Africa is that of a right-angled triangle, if we imagine its figure to be drawn on a plane surface. Its base is the coast opposite to us, extending fromEgypt and theNile toMauretania and thePillars; at right angles to this is a side formed by theNile toEthiopia, which side we continue to the ocean; the hypothenuse of the right angle is the whole tract of sea-coast lying betweenEthiopia andMauretania.
As the part situated at the vertex of the above-mentioned figure, and lying almost entirely under the torrid zone, is inaccessible, we speak of it from conjecture, and therefore cannot say what is the greatest breadth of the country. In a former part of this work we have said, that the distance proceeding fromAlexandreia southwards toMeroe, the royal seat of theEthiopians, is about 10,000 stadia; thence in a straight line to the borders of the torrid zone and the habitable country, 3000 stadia. The sum, therefore, may be assumed as the greatest breadth of Africa, which is 13,000 or 14,000 stadia: its length may be a little less than double this sum. So much then on the subject of Africa in general. I am now to describe its several parts, beginning from the most celebrated on the west.
§ 17.3.2 Here dwell a people called by the GreeksMaurusii, and by the Romans and the nativesMauri, a populous and flourishing African nation, situated opposite to Spain, on the other side of the strait, at thePillars of Hercules, which we have frequently mentioned before. On proceeding beyond the strait at thePillars, with Africa on the left hand, we come to a mountain which the Greeks callAtlas, and the barbariansDyris. Thence projects into the sea a point formed by the foot of the mountain towards the west ofMauretania, and called theCoteis. Near it is a small town, a little above the sea, which the barbarians call Trinx;Artemidorus, Lynx; andEratosthenes,Lixus. It lies on the side of the strait opposite toGadeira, from which it is separated by a passage of 800 stadia, the width of the strait at thePillars between both places. To the south, nearLixus and theCoteis, is a bay calledEmporicus, having upon itPhoenician mercantile settlements. The whole coast continuous with this bay abounds with them. Subtracting these bays, and the projections of land in the triangular figure which I have described, the continent may rather be considered as increasing in magnitude in the direction of south and east. The mountain which extends through the middle ofMauretania, from theCoteis to theSyrtes, is itself inhabited, as well as others running parallel to it, first by theMaurusii, but deep in the interior of the country by the largest of the African tribes, calledGaetuli.
§ 17.3.3 Historians, beginning with the voyage ofOphelas (Apellas?), have invented a great number of fables respecting the sea-coast of Africa beyond thePillars. We have mentioned them before, and mention them now, requesting our readers to pardon the introduction of marvellous stories, whenever we may be compelled to relate anything of the kind, being unwilling to pass them over entirely in silence, and so in a manner to mutilate our account of the country.
It is said, that the SinusEmporicus (or merchants' bay) has a cave which admits the sea at high tide to the distance even of seven stadia, and in front of this bay a low and level tract with an altar ofHercules upon it, which, they say, is not covered by the tide. This I, of course, consider to be one of the fictitious stories. Like this is the tale, that on other bays in the succeeding coast there were ancient settlements ofTyrians, now abandoned, which consisted of not less than three hundred cities, and were destroyed by thePharusii and theNigritae. These people, they say, are distant thirty days' journey from Lynx.
§ 17.3.4 Writers in general are agreed thatMauretania is a fertile country, except a small part which is desert, and is supplied with water by rivers and lakes. It has forests of trees of vast size, and the soil produces everything. It is this country which furnishes the Romans with tables, formed of one piece of wood, of the largest dimensions, and most beautifully variegated. The rivers are said to contain crocodiles and other kinds of animals similar to those in theNile. Some suppose that even the sources of theNile are near the extremities ofMauretania. In a certain river leeches are bred seven cubits in length, with gills, pierced through with holes, through which they respire. This country is also said to produce a vine, the girth of which two men can scarcely compass, and bearing bunches of grapes of about a cubit in size. All plants and pot-herbs are tall, as the arum and dracontium; the stalks of the staphylinus, the hippomarathum, and the scolymus are twelve cubits in height, and four palms in thickness. The country is the fruitful nurse of largeserpents, elephants, antelopes, buffaloes, and similar animals; oflions also, and panthers. It produces weasels (jerboas ?) equal in size and similar tocats, except that their noses are more prominent; and multitudes of apes, of whichPoseidonius relates, that when he was sailing fromGades toItaly, and approached the coast of Africa, he saw a forest low upon the sea-shore full of these animals, some on the trees, others on the ground, and some giving suck to their young. He was amused also with seeing some with large dugs, some bald, others with ruptures, and exhibiting to view various effects of disease.
§ 17.3.5 AboveMauretania, on the exterior sea (theAtlantic), is the country of the westernEthiopians, as they are called, which, for the most part, is badly inhabited.Iphicrates says, thatcamel-leopards are bred here, and elephants, and the animals called rhizeis, which in shape are likebulls, but in manner of living, in size, and strength in fighting, resemble elephants. He speaks also of largeserpents, and says that even grass grows upon their backs; thatlions attack the young of the elephants, and that when they have wounded them, they fly on the approach of the dams; that the latter, when they see their young besmeared with blood, kill them; and that thelions return to the dead bodies, and devour them; that Bogus king of theMauretanians, during his expedition against the westernEthiopians, sent, as a present to his wife, canes similar to theIndian canes, each joint of which contained eight choenices, and asparagus of similar magnitude.
§ 17.3.6 On sailing into the interior sea, from Lynx, there are Zelis a city andTingis, then the monuments of the Seven Brothers, and the mountain lying below, of the name ofAbyle, abounding with wild animals and trees of a great size. They say, that the length of the strait at the pillars is 120 stadia, and the least breadth atElephas 60 stadia On sailing further along the coast, we find cities and many rivers, as far as the riverMolochath, which is the boundary between the territories of theMauretanians and of theMasaesyli. Near the river is a large promontory, andMetagonium, a place without water and barren. The mountain extends along the coast, from theCoteis nearly to this place. Its length from theCoteis to the borders of theMasaesylii is 5000 stadia.Metagonium is nearly opposite toNew Carthage.Timosthenes is mistaken in saying that it is opposite toMassalia. The passage across fromNew Carthage toMetagonium is 3000 stadia, but the voyage along the coast toMassalia is above 6000 stadia.
§ 17.3.7 Although theMauretanians inhabit a country, the greatest part of which is very fertile, yet the people in general continue even to this time to live like nomads. They bestow care to improve their looks by plaiting their hair, trimming their beards, by wearing golden ornaments, cleaning their teeth, and paring their nails; and you would rarely see them touch one another as they walk, lest they should disturb the arrangement of their hair.
They fight for the most part on horseback, with a javelin; and ride on the bare back of thehorse, with bridles made of rushes. They have also swords. The foot-soldiers present against the enemy, as shields, the skins of elephants. They wear the skins oflions, panthers, and bears, and sleep in them. These tribes, and theMasaesylii next to them, and for the most part the Africans in general, wear the same dress and arms, and resemble one another in other respects; they ridehorses which are small, but spirited and tractable, so as to be guided by a switch. They have collars made of cotton or of hair, from which hangs a leading-rein. Some follow, likedogs, without being led.
They have a small shield of leather, and small lances with broad heads. Their tunics are loose, with wide borders; their cloak is a skin, as I have said before, which serves also as a breastplate.
ThePharusii and Nigretes, who live above these people, near the westernEthiopians, use bows and arrows, like theEthiopians. They have chariots also, armed with scythes. ThePharusii rarely have any intercourse with theMauretanians in passing through the desert country, as they carry skins filled with water, fastened under the bellies of theirhorses. Sometimes, indeed, they come toCirta, passing through places abounding with marshes and lakes. Some of them are said to live like theTroglodytae, in caves dug in the ground. It is said that rain falls there frequently in summer, but that during the winter drought prevails. Some of the barbarians in that quarter wear the skins ofserpents and fishes, and use them as coverings for their beds. Some say that theMauretanians areIndians, who accompaniedHercules hither. A little before my time, the kings Bogus andBocchus, allies of the Romans, possessed this country; after their death,Juba succeeded to the kingdom, having received it fromAugustus Caesar, in addition to his paternal dominions. He was the son ofJuba who fought, in conjunction withScipio, against divusCaesar.Juba died lately, and was succeeded by his sonPtolemy, whose mother was the daughter ofAntony andCleopatra.
§ 17.3.8 Artemidorus censuresEratosthenes for saying that there is a city calledLixus, and not Lynx, near the extremities ofMauretania; that there are a very great number ofPhoenician cities destroyed, of which no traces are to be seen; and that among the westernEthiopians, in the evenings and the mornings, the air is misty and dense;— for how could this take place where there is drought and excessive heat? But he himself relates of these same parts what is much more liable to objection. For he speaks of some tribes ofLotophagi, who had left their own country, and might have occupied the tract destitute of water; whose food might be a lotus, a sort of herb, or root, which would supply the want of drink; that these people extend as far as the places aboveCyrene, and that they live there on milk and flesh, although they are situated in the same latitude.
Gabinius, the Roman historian, indulges in relating marvellous stories ofMauretania. He speaks of a sepulchre ofAntaeus at Lynx, and a skeleton of sixty feet in length, whichSertorius exposed, and afterwards covered it with earth. His stories also about elephants are fabulous. He says, that other animals avoid fire, but that elephants resist and fight against it, because it destroys the forests; that they engage with men in battle, and send out scouts before them; that when they perceive their enemies fly, they take to flight themselves; and that when they are wounded, they hold out as suppliants branches of a tree, or a plant, or throw up dust.
§ 17.3.9 Next toMauretania is the country of theMasesylii, beginning from the riverMolocath, and ending at the promontory which is calledTretum, the boundary of the country of theMasaesyli and of theMasylies. FromMetagonium toTretum are 6000 stadia; according to others, the distance is less.
Upon the sea-coast are many cities and rivers, and a country which is very fertile. It will be sufficient to mention the most renowned. The city ofSiga. the royal seat ofSyphax, is at the distance of 1000 stadia from the above-mentioned boundaries. It is now razed. AfterSyphax, the country was in the possession ofMasanasses, then ofMicipsa, next of his successors, and in our time ofJuba, the father of theJuba who died lately.Zama, which wasJuba's palace, was destroyed by the Romans. At the distance of 600 stadia fromSiga isTheon-limen (Portus Divinus); next are some other obscure places.
Deep in the interior of the country are mountainous and desert tracts scattered here and there, some of which are inhabited and occupied byGaetuli extending to theSyrtes. But the parts near the sea are fertile plains, in which are numerous cities, rivers, and lakes.
§ 17.3.10 Poseidonius says, but I do not know whether truly, that Africa is traversed by few, and those small rivers; yet he speaks of the same rivers, namely those between Lynx andCarthage, whichArtemidorus describes as numerous and large. This may be asserted with more truth of the interior of the country, and he himself assigns the reason of it, namely, that in the northern parts of Africa (and the same is said ofEthiopia) there is no rain; in consequence therefore of the drought, pestilence frequently ensues, the lakes are filled with mud only, and locusts appear in clouds.
Poseidonius besides asserts that the eastern parts are moist, because the sun quickly changes its place after rising; and that the western parts are dry, because the sun there turns in his course. Now, drought and moisture depend upon the abundance or scarcity of water, and on the presence or absence of the sun's rays. ButPoseidonius means to speak of the effects produced by the sun, which all writers determine by the latitude, north or south; but east and west, as applied to the residence of men, differ in different places, according to the position of each inhabited spot and the change of horizon; so that it cannot be asserted generally of places indefinite in number, that those lying to the east are moist, and those to the west dry: but as applied to the whole earth and such extremes of it asIndia and Spain, his expressions (east and west) may be just; yet what truth or probability is there in his (attempted) explanation (of the causes of drought and moisture)? for in the continuous and unceasing circuit of the sun, what turn can there be in his course? The rapidity too of his passage through every part is equal. Besides, it is contrary to evidence to say, that the extreme parts of Spain orMauretania towards the west are drier than all other places, when at the same time they are situated in a temperate climate and have water in great abundance. But if we are to understand the turning of the sun in this way, that there at the extremities of the habitable world he is above the earth, how does that tend to produce drought ? for there, and in other places situated in the same latitude, he leaves them for an equal portion of the night and returns again and warms the earth.
§ 17.3.11 Somewhere there, also, are copper mines; and a spring of asphaltus; scorpions of enormous size, both with and without wings, are said to be found there, as well as tarantulas, remarkable for their size and numbers. Lizards also are mentioned of two cubits in length. At the base of the mountains precious stones are said to be found, as those called theLychnitis (the ruby) and the Carchedonius (the carbuncle?). In the plains are found great quantities of oyster and mussel shells, similar to those mentioned in our description ofAmmon. There is also a tree called melilotus, from which a wine is made. Some obtain two crops from the ground and have two harvests, one in the spring, the other in the summer. The straw is five cubits in height, and of the thickness of the little finger; the produce is 250-fold. They do not sow in the spring, but bush-harrow the ground with bundles of the paliurus, and find the seed-grain sufficient which falls from the sheaves during harvest to produce the summer crop. In consequence of the number of reptiles, they work with coverings on the legs; other parts of the body also are protected by skins.
§ 17.3.12 On this coast was a city calledIol, whichJuba, the father ofPtolemy, rebuilt and changed its name toCaesarea. It has a harbour and a small island in front of it. BetweenCaesarea andTretum is a large harbour calledSalda, which now forms the boundary between the territories subject toJuba and the Romans; for the country has been subject to many changes, having had numerous occupants; and the Romans, at various times, have treated some among them as friends, others as enemies, conceding or taking away territories without observing any established rule.
The country on the side ofMauretania produced a greater revenue and was more powerful, whilst that nearCarthage and of theMasylies was more flourishing and better furnished with buildings, although it suffered first in theCarthaginian wars, and subsequently during the war withJugurtha, who successfully besieged Adarbal in Ityca (Utica), and put him to death as a friend of the Romans, and thus involved the whole country in war. Other wars succeeded one another, of which the last was that between divusCaesar andScipio, in whichJuba lost his life. The death of the leaders was accompanied by the destruction of the cities Tisiaeus,Vaga,Thala,Capsa (the treasure-hold ofJugurtha),Zama, and Zincha. To these must be added those cities in the neighbourhood of which divusCaesar obtained victories overScipio, namely, first atRuspinum, then atUzita, then atThapsus and the neighbouring lake, and at many others. Near are the free cities Zella andAcholla.Caesar also captured at the first onset the islandCercinna, andThena, a small city on the seacoast. Some of these cities utterly disappeared, and others were abandoned, being partly destroyed. Phara was burnt by the cavalry ofScipio.
§ 17.3.13 AfterTretum follows the territory of theMasylies, and that of theCarthaginians which borders upon it. In the interior isCirta, the royal residence ofMasanasses and his successors. It is a very strong place and well provided with everything, which it principally owes toMicipsa, who established a colony of Greeks in it, and raised it to such importance, that it was capable of sending out 10,000 cavalry and twice as many infantry. Here, besidesCirta, are the two citiesHippo, one of which is situated nearItyca, the other further off nearTretum, both royal residences.Ityca is next toCarthage in extent and importance. On the destruction ofCarthage it became a metropolis to the Romans, and the head quarters of their operations in Africa. It is situated in the very bay itself ofCarthage, on one of the promontories which form it, of which the one nearItyca is calledApollonium, the otherHermaea. Both cities are in sight of each other. NearItyca flows the riverBagradas. FromTretum toCarthage are 2,000 stadia, but authors are not agreed upon this distance, nor on the distance (ofCarthage) from theSyrtes.
§ 17.3.14 Carthage is situated upon a peninsula, comprising a circuit of 360 stadia, with a wall, of which sixty stadia in length are upon the neck of the peninsula, and reach from sea to sea. Here theCarthaginians kept their elephants, it being a wide open place. In the middle of the city was the acropolis, which they calledByrsa, a hill of tolerable height with dwellings round it. On the summit was the temple ofEsculapius, which was destroyed when the wife of Asdrubas burnt herself to death there, on the capture of the city. Below the acropolis were the harbours and theCothon, a circular island, surrounded by a canal communicating with the sea (Euripus), and on every side of it (upon the canal) were situated sheds for vessels.
§ 17.3.15 Carthage was founded byDido, who brought her people fromTyre. Both this colony and the settlements in Spain and beyond thePillars proved so successful to thePhoenicians, that even to the present day they occupy the best parts on the continent of Europe and the neighbouring islands. They obtained possession of the whole of Africa, with the exception of such parts as could only be held by nomad tribes. From the power they acquired they raised a city to rivalRome, and waged three great wars against her. Their power became most conspicuous in the last war, in which they were vanquished byScipio Aemilianus, and their city was totally destroyed. For at the commencement of this war, they possessed 300 cities in Africa, and the population ofCarthage amounted to 700,000 inhabitants. After being besieged and compelled to surrender, they delivered up 200,000 complete suits of armour and 3000 engines for throwing projectiles, apparently with the intention of abandoning all hostilities; but having resolved to recommence the war, they at once began to manufacture arms, and daily deposited in store 140 finished shields, 300 swords, 500 lances, and 1000 projectiles for the engines, for the use of which the women-servants contributed their hair. In addition to this, although at this moment they were in possession of only twelve ships, according to the terms of the treaty concluded in the second war, and had already taken refuge in a body at theByrsa, yet in two months they equipped 120 decked vessels; and, as the mouth of theCothon was closed against them, cut another outlet (to the sea) through which the fleet suddenly made its appearance. For wood had been collected for a long time, and a multitude of workmen were constantly employed, who were maintained at the public expense.
Carthage, though so great, was yet taken and levelled to the ground.
The Romans made a province of that part of the country which had been subject toCarthage, and appointed ruler of the restMasanasses and his descendants, beginning withMicipsa. For the Romans paid particular attention toMasanasses on account of his great abilities and friendship for them. For he it was who formed the nomads to civil life, and directed their attention to husbandry. Instead of robbers he taught them to be soldiers. A peculiarity existed among these people; they inhabited a country favoured in everything except that it abounded with wild beasts; these they neglected to destroy, and so to cultivate the soil in security; but turning their arms against each other, abandoned the country to the beasts of prey. Hence their life was that of wanderers and of continual change, quite as much as that of those who are compelled to it by want and barrenness of soil or severity of climate. An appropriate name was therefore given to theMasaesylii, for they were called Nomads. Such persons must necessarily be sparing livers, eaters of roots more than of flesh, and supported by milk and cheese.Carthage remained a desolate place for a long time, for nearly the same period, indeed, asCorinth, until it was restored about the same time (as the latter city) by divusCaesar, who sent thither such Romans to colonize it as elected to go there, and also some soldiers. At present it is the most populous city in Africa.
§ 17.3.16 About the middle of the gulf ofCarthage is the islandCorsura. On the other side of the strait opposite to these places isSicily andLilybaeum, at the distance of (about) 1500 stadia; for this is said to be the distance fromLilybaeum toCarthage. Not far fromCorsura andSicily are other islands, among which isAegimurus. FromCarthage there is a passage of 60 stadia to the nearest opposite coast, from whence there is an ascent of 120 stadia toNepheris, a fortified city built upon a rock. On the same gulf asCarthage, is situated a cityTunis; hot springs and stone quarries are also found there; then the rugged promontoryHermaea, on which is a city of the same name; thenNeapolis; then CapeTaphitis, on which is a hillock namedAspis, from its resemblance (to a shield), at which placeAgathocles, tyrant ofSicily, collected inhabitants when he made his expedition againstCarthage. These cities were destroyed by the Romans, together withCarthage. At the distance of 400 stadia fromTaphitis is an islandCossuros, with a city of the same name, lying opposite to the riverSelinus inSicily. Its circuit is 150 stadia, and its distance fromSicily about 600 stadia.Melite, an island, is 500 stadia distant fromCossuros. Then follows the cityAdrumes, with a naval arsenal; then theTaracheiae, numerous small islands; then the cityThapsus. and near itLopadussa, an island situated far from the coast; then the promontory ofAmmon Balithon, near which is a look-out for the approach oftunny; then the cityThena, lying at the entrance of the LittleSyrtis. There are many small cities in the intervening parts, which are not worthy of notice. At the entrance of theSyrtis, a long island stretches parallel to the coast, calledCercinna; it is of considerable size, with a city of the same name; there is also another smaller island Cercinnitis.
§ 17.3.17 Close, in the neighbourhood (of these islands), is the LittleSyrtis, which is also called theSyrtis Lotophagitis (or the lotus-eatingSyrtis). The circuit of this gulf is 1600, and the breadth of the entrance 600 stadia; at each of the promontories which form the entrance and close to the mainland is an island, one of which, just mentioned, isCercinna, and the otherMeninx; they are nearly equal in size.Meninx is supposed to be the 'land of thelotus-eaters' mentioned byHomer. Certain tokens (of this) are shown, such as an altar ofUlysses and the fruit itself. For the tree called the lotus-tree is found in abundance in the island, and the fruit is very sweet to the taste. There are many small cities in it, one of which bears the same name as the island. On the coast of theSyrtis itself are also some small cities. In the recess (of theSyrtis) is a very considerable mart for commerce, where a river discharges itself into the gulf. The effects of the flux and reflux of the tides extend up to this point, and at the proper moment the neighbouring inhabitants eagerly rush (to the shore) to capture the fish (thrown up).
§ 17.3.18 After theSyrtis, follows the lake Zuchis, 400 stadia (in circuit?), with a narrow entrance, where is situated a city of the same name, containing factories for purple dyeing and for salting of all kinds; then follows another lake much smaller; after this the cityAbrotonon and some others. Close by isNeapolis, which is also calledLeptis. From hence the passage across to theLocri Epizephyrii is a distance of 3600 stadia. Next is the river [Cinyps]. Afterwards is a walled dam, constructed by theCarthaginians, who thus bridged over some deep swamps which extend far into the country. There are some places here without harbours, although the rest of the coast is provided with them. Next is a lofty wooded promontory, which is the commencement of the GreatSyrtis, and called Cephalae (The Heads), from whence toCarthage is a distance of a little more than 5000 stadia.
§ 17.3.19 Above the sea-coast fromCarthage to Cephalae (on the one hand) and to the territory of theMasaesyli (on the other) lies the territory of theLibo-Phoenicians, extending (into the interior) to the mountainous country of theGaetuli, which belongs to Africa Proper. Above theGaetuli is the country of theGaramantes, lying parallel to the former, and from whence are brought theCarthaginian pebbles (carbuncles). TheGaramantes are said to be distant from theEthiopians, who live on the borders of the ocean, nine or ten days' journey, and from the temple ofAmmon fifteen days. Between theGaetuli and the coast of our sea (the Mediterranean) there are many plains and many mountains, great lakes and rivers, some of which sink into the earth and disappear. The inhabitants are simple in their mode of life and in their dress; they marry numerous wives, and have a numerous offspring; in other respects they resemble the nomadArabians. The necks both ofhorses andoxen are longer than in other countries.
The breeding ofhorses is most carefully attended to by the kings (of the country); so much so, that the number of colts is yearly calculated at 100,.Sheep are fed with milk and flesh, particularly nearEthiopia. These are the customs of the interior.
§ 17.3.20 The circuit of the GreatSyrtis is about 3930 stadia, its depth to the recess is 1500 stadia, and its breadth at the mouth is also nearly the same. The difficulty of navigating both these and theLesser Syrtis [arises from the circumstances of] the soundings in many parts being soft mud. It sometimes happens, on the ebbing and flowing of the tide, that vessels are carried upon the shallows, settle down, and are seldom recovered. Sailors therefore, in coasting, keep at a distance (from the shore), and are on their guard, lest they should be caught by a wind unprepared, and driven into these gulfs. Yet the daring disposition of man induces him to attempt everything, and particularly the coasting along a shore. On entering theGreat Syrtis on the right, after passing the promontory Cephalae, is a lake of about 300 stadia in length, and 70 stadia in breadth, which communicates with the gulf, and has at its entrance small islands and an anchorage. After the lake follows a place calledAspis, and a harbour, the best of all in theSyrtis. Near this place is the towerEuphrantas, the boundary between the former territory ofCarthage andCyrenaica underPtolemy (Soter). Then another place, calledCharax, which theCarthaginians frequented as a place of commerce, with cargoes of wine, and loaded in return with silphium and its juice, which they received from merchants who brought it away clandestinely fromCyrene; then theAltars of the Philaeni; after these Automola, a fortress defended by a garrison, and situated in the recess of the whole gulf. The parallel passing through this recess is more to the south than that passing throughAlexandreia by 1000 stadia, and than that passing throughCarthage by less than 2000 stadia; but it would coincide with the parallel passing, on one side, throughHeroopolis, which is situated in the recess of theArabian Gulf, and passing, on the other, through the interior of the territory of theMasaesylii and theMauretanians. The rest of the sea-coast, to the cityBerenice, is 1500 stadia in length. Above this length of coast, and extending to theAltars of the Philaeni, are situated an African nation calledNasamones. The intervening distance (between the recess of theSyrtis andBerenice) contains but few harbours, and watering-places are rare.
On a promontory called Pseudopenias is situatedBerenice, near a lakeTritonis, in which is to be observed a small island with a temple ofVenus upon it. There also is a lake of theHesperides, into which flows a river (called)Lathon. On this side ofBerenice is a small promontory calledBoreion (or North Cape), which with Cephalae forms the entrance of theSyrtis.Berenice lies opposite to the promontories ofPeloponnesus, namely, those calledIchthys and [Chelonatas], and also to the islandZacynthus, at an interval of 3600 stadia.Marcus Cato marched from this city, round theSyrtis, in thirty days, at the head of an army composed of more than 10,000 men, separated into divisions on account of the watering-places; his course lay through deep sand, under burning heat. AfterBerenice is a cityTaucheira, called alsoArsinoe; thenBarca, formerly so called, but nowPtolemais; then the promontoryPhycus, which is low, but extends further to the north than the rest of the African coast: it is opposite toTaenarum, inLaconia, at the distance of 2800 stadia; on it there is also a small town of the same name as the promontory. Not far fromPhycus, at a distance of about 170 stadia, isApollonia, the naval arsenal ofCyrene; fromBerenice it is distant 1000 stadia, and 80 stadia fromCyrene, a considerable city situated on a table-land, as I observed it from the sea.
§ 17.3.21 Cyrene was founded by the inhabitants ofThera, aLacedaemonian island which was formerly calledCalliste, asCallimachus says, "Calliste once its name, butThera in later times, the mother of my home, famed for its steeds." The harbour ofCyrene is situated opposite toCriu-Metopon, the western cape ofCrete, distant 2000 stadia. The passage is made with a south-south-west wind.Cyrene is said to have been founded byBattus, whomCallimachus claims to have been his ancestor. The city flourished from the excellence of the soil, which is peculiarly adapted for breedinghorses, and the growth of fine crops. It has produced many men of distinction, who have shown themselves capable of worthily maintaining the freedom of the place, and firmly resisting the barbarians of the interior; hence the city was independent in ancient times, but subsequently it was attacked [successfully] by theMacedonians, (who had conqueredEgypt, and thus increased their power,) under the command ofThibron the murderer ofHarpalus: having continued for some time to be governed by kings, it finally came under the power of the Romans, and withCrete forms a single province. In the neighbourhood ofCyrene areApollonia,Barca,Taucheira,Berenice, and other small towns close by.
§ 17.3.22 Bordering uponCyrenaica is the district which produces silphium, and the juice calledCyrenaic, which the silphium discharges from incisions made in it. The plant was once nearly lost, in consequence of a spiteful incursion of barbarians, who attempted to destroy all the roots. The inhabitants of this district are nomads.
Remarkable persons ofCyrene wereAristippus, theSocratic philosopher, who established the Cyrenaic philosophy, and his daughter namedArete, who succeeded to his school; she again was succeeded by her sonAristippus, who was called Metrodidactos, (mother-taught,) andAnniceris, who is supposed to have reformed theCyrenaic sect, and to have introduced in its stead the Anniceric sect.Callimachus andEratosthenes were also ofCyrene, both of whom were held in honour by the kings ofEgypt; the former was both a poet and a zealous grammarian; the latter followed not only these pursuits, but also philosophy, and was distinguished above all others for his knowledge of mathematics.Carneades also came from thence, who by common consent was the first of the Academic philosophers, andApollonius Cronos, the master ofDiodorus the Dialectician, who was also called Cronos, for the epithet of the master was by some transferred to the scholar.
The rest of the sea-coast ofCyrene fromApollonia toCatabathmus is 2200 stadia in length; it does not throughout afford facilities for coasting along it; for harbours, anchorage, habitations, and watering-places are few. The places most in repute along the coast are theNaustathmus, andZephyrium with an anchorage, also anotherZephyrium, and a promontory called Chersonesus, with a harbour situated opposite to and to the south ofCorycus inCrete, at the distance of 2500 stadia; then a temple ofHercules, and above it a villagePaliurus; then a harbourMenelaus, and a low promontory Ardanixis, (Ardanis,) with an anchorage; then a great harbour, which is situated opposite toChersonesus inCrete, at a distance of about 3000 (2000 ?) stadia; for the whole ofCrete, which is (a) long and narrow (island), lies opposite and nearly parallel to this coast. After the great harbour is another harbour,Plynos, and about it Tetra-pyrgia (the four towers). The place is calledCatabathmus.Cyrenaea extends to this point; the remainder (of the coast) toParaetonium, and from thence toAlexandreia, we have spoken of in our account ofEgypt.
§ 17.3.23 The country deep in the interior, and above theSyrtis andCyrenaea, a very sterile and dry tract, is in the possession ofLibyans. First are theNasamones, thenPsylli, and someGaetuli, thenGaramantes; somewhat more towards the east (than theNasamones) are theMarmaridae, who are situated for the most part on the boundaries ofCyrenaea, and extend to the temple ofAmmon. It is asserted, that persons directing their course from the recess of the GreatSyrtis, (namely,) from about the neighbourhood ofAutomala, in the direction of the winter sunrise, arrive on the fourth day atAugila. This place resemblesAmmon, and is productive of palm trees, and is well supplied with water. It is situated beyondCyrenaea to the south: for 100 stadia the soil produces trees; for another 100 stadia the land is only sown, but from excessive heat does not grow rice.
Above these parts is the district which produces silphium, then follows the uninhabited tract, and the country of theGaramantes. The district which produces silphium is narrow, long, and dry, extending in an easterly direction about 1000 stadia, but in breadth 300 stadia, or rather more, at least as far as has been ascertained. For we may conjecture that all countries which lie on the same parallel (of latitude) have the same climate, and produce the same plants; but since many deserts intervene, we cannot know every place. In like manner, we have no information respecting the country beyond (the temple of)Ammon, nor of the oases, as far asEthiopia, nor can we state distinctly what are the boundaries ofEthiopia, nor of Africa, nor even of the country close uponEgypt, still less of the parts bordering on the ocean.
§ 17.3.24 Such, then, is the disposition of the parts of the world which we inhabit. But since the Romans have surpassed (in power) all former rulers of whom we have any record, and possess the choicest and best known parts of it, it will be suitable to our subject briefly to refer to their Empire.
It has been already stated how this people, beginning from the single city ofRome, obtained possession of the whole ofItaly, by warfare and prudent administration; and how, afterwards, following the same wise course, they added the countries all around it to their dominion.
Of the three continents, they possess nearly the whole of Europe, with the exception only of the parts beyond theDanube, (to the north,) and the tracts on the verge of the ocean, comprehended between theRhine and theTanais.
Of Africa, the whole sea-coast on the Mediterranean is in their power; the rest of that country is uninhabited, or the inhabitants only lead a miserable and nomad life.
OfAsia likewise, the whole sea-coast in our direction (on the west) is subject to them, unless indeed any account is to be taken of theAchei,Zygi, andHeniochi, who are robbers and nomads, living in confined and wretched districts. Of the interior, and of the parts far inland, the Romans possess one portion, and theParthians, or the barbarians beyond them, the other; on the east and north areIndians,Bactrians, andScythians; then (on the south)Arabians andEthiopians; but territory is continually being abstracted from these people by the Romans.
Of all these countries some are governed by (native) kings, but the rest are under the immediate authority ofRome, under the title of provinces, to which are sent governors and collectors of tribute; there are also some free cities, which from the first sought the friendship ofRome, or obtained their freedom as a mark of honour. Subject to her also are some princes, chiefs of tribes, and priests, who (are permitted) to live in conformity with their national laws.
§ 17.3.25 The division into provinces has varied at different periods, but at present it is that established byAugustus Caesar; for after the sovereign power had been conferred upon him by his country for life, and he had become the arbiter of peace and war, he divided the whole empire into two parts, one of which he reserved to himself, the other he assigned to the (Roman) people. The former consisted of such parts as required military defence, and were barbarian, or bordered upon nations not as yet subdued, or were barren and uncultivated, which though ill provided with everything else, were yet well furnished with strongholds. and might thus dispose the inhabitants to throw off the yoke and rebel. All the rest, which were peaceable countries, and easily governed without the assistance of arms, were given over to the (Roman) people. Each of these parts was subdivided into several provinces, which received respectively the titles of 'provinces ofCaesar' and 'provinces of the People.'
To the former provincesCaesar appoints governors and administrators, and divides the (various) countries sometimes in one way, sometimes in another, directing his political conduct according to circumstances.
But the people appoint commanders and consuls to their own provinces, which are also subject to divers divisions when expediency requires it.
(Augustus Caesar) in his first organization of (the Empire) created two consular governments, namely, the whole of Africa in possession of the Romans, excepting that part which was under the authority, first ofJuba, but now of his sonPtolemy; andAsia within theHalys andTaurus, except theGalatians and the nations underAmyntas,Bithynia, and thePropontis. He appointed also ten consular governments in Europe and in the adjacent islands.Iberia Ulterior (Further Spain) about the riverBaetis andCeltica Narbonensis (composed the two first). The third wasSardinia, withCorsica; the fourthSicily; the fifth and sixthIllyria, districts nearEpirus, andMacedonia; the seventhAchaia, extending toThessaly, theAetolians,Acarnanians, and theEpirotic nations who border uponMacedonia; the eighthCrete, withCyrenaea; the ninthCyprus; the tenthBithynia, with thePropontis and some parts ofPontus.
Caesar possesses other provinces, to the government of which he appoints men of consular rank, commanders of armies, or knights; and in his (peculiar) portion (of the empire) there are and ever have been kings, princes, and (municipal) magistrates.