R¹ represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X' represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1 , is represented by the following formula:

[Chem 2]

wherein R¹ is the same as defined above, R² represents an alkylene group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R³ represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Xⁱ⁺¹ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1 ; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and ai is an integer from 0 to 3; wherein said radical-polymerizable organic group contained in the component (A) is chosen from: organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the following formulae: [Chem 3]

wherein R⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group,

R⁵ represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the following formula:

[Chem 5]

wherein R⁶ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R⁷ represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R⁸ represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4 and c has the value 0 or 1 , such that, if c is 0,

-(R⁸)c- represents a bond.

[0108] The monomer of vinyl type that is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.

[0109] There is no specific limitation with regards to such a monomer.

[0110] The following are examples of this monomer of vinyl type: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or a methacrylate of a lower alkyl analogue; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tertbutyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate or a higher methacrylate analogue; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of a lower fatty acid analogue; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2- ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate or a higher fatty acid ester analogue; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone or similar vinylaromatic monomers; methacrylamide, N- methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide or similar monomers of vinyl type containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol methacrylate or similar monomers of vinyl type containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid or similar monomers of vinyl type containing a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether or a similar monomer of vinyl type with ether bonds; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.

[0111] Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.

[0112] The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1 ,4- butanediol dimethacrylate, 1 ,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxyethylmethacrylate, tris(2- hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups possessing divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups.

[0113] To facilitate the preparation of starting material mixture for cosmetic products, the number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer bearing a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be chosen within the range between 3000 and 2 000 000 g/mol, preferably between 5000 and 800 000 g/mol. It may be a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder, or any other form. The preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution of a dispersion or of a powder in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil.

[0114] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or the solution may have a concentration within a range of between 0.1% and 95% by weight, preferably between 5% and 70% by weight. However, to facilitate the handling and the preparation of the mixture, the range should preferably be between 10% and 60% by weight.

[0115] According to a preferred form, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention can be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be the product of polymerization:

- of 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and

- of 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.

[0117] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer can comprise a unit derived from tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer corresponding to one of the formulae [Chem 6]

or

[Chem 7]

[0118] According to one preferred mode, a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit used in the invention comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.

[0119] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may also comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of patent application WO 03/045 337.

[0120] According to one preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted in the sense of the present invention may be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oils, which is/are in particular preferably volatile, chosen from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, a silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.

[0122] According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be isododecane.

[0123] Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer which may be particularly suitable for the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220® and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4- 230®) by Dow Coming. Use will preferably be made of the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®) and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Coming.

[0124] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer which can be used in a composition of the invention is an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer with the INCI name: Acrylates/Polytrimethyl Siloxymethacrylate Copolymer, in particular that sold in isododecane under the name Dow Coming FA 4002 ID® Silicone Acrylate by Dow Coming.

IV. Silicone acrylate copolymers [0125] According to a specific embodiment, a composition used according to the invention can comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

[0126] The term "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is understood to mean, in the present patent application, a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic (acid or ester) monomers, and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.

[0127] In the present patent application, the term "carboxylic monomer" means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, esters thereof and mixtures of these monomers.

[0128] Esters that may be mentioned include the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconate and/or crotonate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in ester form are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably C1-C24 and better still C1-C22 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, the alkyl radical preferentially being chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylates or methacrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] In the present application, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also called organopolysiloxanes or, for short, PDMS) is understood to mean, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units wherein the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane =Si- O-Si= bond), comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The PDMS chains that may be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, i.e. the PDMS may contain, for example, a polymerizable radical group on the two ends of the chain or one polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and one trimethylsilyl end group on the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group may especially be an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group CH2=CR¹-CO-O-R², wherein R¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R² represents -CH2-, -(CH₂)n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2-CH(CH₃)-CH2-; -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-, -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH(CH₃)-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2, -CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH2-.

[0131 ] The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by free-radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in documents US-A-5 061 481 and US-A-5 219 560.

[0132] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol and preferably from approximately 5000 g/mol to 100 000 g/mol.

[0133] The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be in its native form or in dispersed form in a solvent such as lower alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).

[0134] As copolymers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl acrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and of stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate bearing polydimethylsiloxane grafts. As a copolymer that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by Shin- Etsu under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone), KP-541® wherein the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone and Isopropyl Alcohol), KP-545® wherein the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: Acrylates/Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane). [0135] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent but is provided in waxy form, its melting point being approximately 30°C.

[0136] Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxane-grafted acrylic acid copolymer dissolved in isododecane sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550®.

[0137] According to a particularly preferred form, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker and under the names KF-7312J® by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Coming.

[0138] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker, and under the names KF-7312J® by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Corning. Linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant

[0139] The composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion in accordance with the invention comprises at least one linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane with an HLB < 8, preferably linear oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated, in particular corresponding to the following formula (I): [Chem 8]

wherein Ri, R2 and R3, independently of one another, are a Ci-Ce alkyl radical or a - (CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH₂CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30.

[0140] According to a particular embodiment, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant with an HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) wherein Ri and R3 denote methyl, R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y- (OCH₂CH2CH2)Z-OR₄ and R₄ is a hydrogen.

[0141 ] More particularly, among these compounds, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant with an HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) wherein x is equal to 0.

[0142] More particularly, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant with an HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) wherein R1 and R3 denote methyl, R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR₄, R₄ is a hydrogen and z is equal to 0.

[0143] According to a particular embodiment, the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane surfactant with an HLB < 8 is chosen from those of formula (I) wherein R1 and R3 denote -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR₄ and R2 is methyl and R₄ is hydrogen.

[0144] Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of formula (I), of the emulsifying surfactants with the following INCI names:

- PEG/PPG-8/8 Dimethicone, such as the products sold under the trade names Silube J208-4I®, Silube J208-6I®, Silube J208-8I® and Silsurf J-1013-V-CG® by Siltech LLC; Andisil SP 1818® by AB Specialty Silicones; Jeesilc DMC 19® by Jeen International Corporation; Xiameter OFX-0190 Fluid® by Dow Chemical Company;

- the Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone (and) dimethicone mixture sold under the trade name Abil EM 97 S® by Evonik Goldschmidt;

- the Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture, such as the products sold under the trade names Dowsil 5225C Formulation Aid® by Dow Chemical; Emusil WO-5115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals; Gransurf 10C® by Grant Industries Inc.; Jeesilc DMC522® by Jeen International Corporation; Silsurf 400R® by Siltech LLC;

- the Cyclotetrasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture, such as the commercial products sold under the names Dowsil 3225C Formulation Aid® by Dow Chemical; Emulsil WO-3115® by Innospec Performance Chemicals; Jeesilc DMC252® and Jeesilc DMC322® by Jeen International Corporation;

- the Dimethicone and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture, such as the commercial products Dowsil ES-5226 DM Formulation Aid® and Dowsil ES-5227 DM Formulation Aid® from Dow Chemical; Gransurf 50C® and Gransurf 50C-HM® from Grant Industries Inc.; and X-22-6711 D® from Shin-Etsu;

- the PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone and C13-C16 Isoparaffin and C10-C13 Isoparaffin mixture, such as the commercial product Dow Coming® BY 25-337 from Dow Chemical;

- PEG-3 Dimethicone, such as the commercial product KF-6015® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.;

- PEG-10 Dimethicone, such as the commercial products KF-6017® from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.; Serasol SC 86® and Serasol SC 86A® from KCC Corporation;

- mixtures thereof.

[0145] A mixture comprising 1 ) Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone and dimethicone and 2) PEG-10 dimethicone will preferably be used.

[0146] The linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane(s) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight and more preferentially still ranging from 1 % to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hyaluronic acid

[0147] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof.

[0148] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" covers in particular the base unit of hyaluronic acid having the following formula: [Chem 9]

[0149) This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid, comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0150] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" also comprises the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence with alternating [3(1 ,4) and [3(1 ,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) which may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight mainly depends on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or on the preparation methods.

[0151 In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" also comprises hyaluronic acid salts and notably alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.

[0152] In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the ground substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs, such as the dermis and epithelial tissues, and in particular in the epidermis, in the articular synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli.

[0153] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" comprises all of the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid exhibiting a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0154] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions not having any inflammatory activity.

[0155] By way of illustration of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to document "Hyaluronan Fragments: An Information-Rich System", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology, 58 (2006), 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the application targeted by the present invention have a molecular weight (MW) ranging from 400 000 to 5 000 000 Daltons, or even from 50 000 to 5 000 000 Daltons, in particular from 100 000 to 5 000 000 Daltons, notably from 400 000 to 5 000 000 Daltons. Reference is made to a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid when said molecular weight is greater than 400 000 Daltons.

[0157] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight ranging from 50 000 to 400 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid. [0158] Alternatively also, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50 000 Daltons. It is a matter in this case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0159] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof" also comprises esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those wherein all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alkyls or alcohols comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a degree of substitution on the D- glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5% to 50%.

[0160] Mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have notably been described in D. Campoccia et al. Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0161 ] The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for the hyaluronic acid esters.

[0162] Hyaluronic acid may be supplied by Hyactive under the trade name CPN® (MW: 10 to 150 kDaltons), by Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal® (MW: 1.1 xio⁶ Daltons) and under Renovhyal LO® (MW: 20 000 < MW < 50 000 Daltons); by Bioland under the name Nutra HA® (MW: 820 000 Daltons), by Bioland under the name Nutra AF® (MW: 69 000 Da) by Bioland under the name Oligo HA® (MW: 6100 Daltons) or by Vam Farmacos Metica® under the name D Factor® (MW: 380 Da).

[0163] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of a mixture of a hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight of less than 50 000 Daltons and a hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight of greater than 50 000 Daltons, more particularly a mixture comprising a hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight of 1 .1 xio⁶ Daltons and a hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight of between 20 000 and 50 000 Daltons, such as the mixture of commercial products Cristalhyal® (MW: 1.1 x⁶ Daltons) and Renovhyal LO® (MW: 20 000 < MW < 50 000 Daltons) sold by Soliance.

[0164] In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are sold by BASF under the name Spheres d’Acide Hyaluronique®. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely respectively having a molecular weight of 1.5X10⁶ Da and a molecular weight of between 400 000 and 600 000 Daltons. [0165] The hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof

[0166] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof.

[0167] The term "vitamin B3" means any molecule having the general formula:

wherein R is -CONH2 (i.e.: niacinamide, isoniacinamide), -COOH (i.e.: nicotinic acid), or -CH2OH (i.e.: nicotinyl alcohol) and also the derivatives thereof and the organic or inorganic acid salts thereof or the inorganic or organic base salts thereof, such as those mentioned above.

[0168] As examples of vitamin B3 derivatives, mention may be made of:

- esters of nicotinic acid, such as those with the following INCI names: Niacinamide Ascorbate Niacinamide Glycolate, Niacinamide Hydroxybenzoate, Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate, Niacinamide Lactate, Niacinamide Malate, Niacinamide Mandalate, Niacinamide Salicylate, Niacinamide Thioctate provided by Bioderma Tech. Co LTD;

- quaternary ammonium salts such as Methyl Niacinamide Chloride (INCI name) such as the commercial product MNA Chloride® from Pharmena;

- the reaction products of niacinamide with polypeptides such as those derived from yeasts: INCI name Niacinamide/Yeast Polypeptide such as the commercial product sold under the trade name Vitazyme B3® by Arch Personal Care Products, L.P. I Lonza Personal Care.

[0169] Niacinamide will more particularly be used, such as the commercial products sold under the following names:

- Niacinamide PC® (DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.)

- OriStar NA® (Orient Stars LLC)

- RonaCare Nicotinamide® (Merck KGaA/EMD Chemicals)

- RonaCare Nicotinamide® (EMD Chemicals). [0170] The vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof are preferably present in concentrations of active material of less than 5.0% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight, even better still from 2% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Xanthine base

[0171 ] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one xanthine base and/or a plant extract containing same.

[0172] Among the xanthine bases of use according to the invention, mention may be made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acefylline, xanthinol nicotinate, diniprophylline, diprophylline, etamiphylline and derivatives thereof, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline, propentophylline, pyridophylline and bamiphylline, without this list being limiting.

[0173] Preference is given, in particular, to using caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and acefylline, and more particularly caffeine.

[0174] As examples of plant extracts containing xanthine bases, mention may especially be made of extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate and cola, without this list being limiting.

[0175] Caffeine will be used more particularly, such as the commercial products Caffeine Anhydrous Natural Powder® from Testa, Caffeine Anhydrous® from CSPC Innovation Pharmaceutical and Caffeine Powder® from BASF.

[0176] The xanthine base(s) are preferably present in concentrations of active material of less than 2% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pulverulent dyestuff

[0177] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff.

[0178] The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from coloring pigments, pearlescent agents, optical-effect pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit.

[0180] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments. [0181 ] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments of use in the present invention, of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide and metal powders, such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, TisOs, Ti20s, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb20s, CeO2 or ZnS.

[0182] The size of the pigment that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0183] According to one particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0184] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0185] D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0186] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. Mention may more particularly be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, which are coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0187] Mention may also be made, as mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, of pearlescent agents.

[0188] The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain mollusks in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.

[0189] The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0191] Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

[0192] The pearlescent agents may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.

[0193] Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect other than a simple conventional coloring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.

[0194] For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.

[0195] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0196] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. [0197] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them.

[0198] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0199] For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0200] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to a person skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0201] The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0202] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.

[0203] The coating may represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0204] The coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0205] The coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578266.

[0206] The chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0207] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0208) According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0209] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0210] According to one particular embodiment, the dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0211] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0212] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0213] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder providing the fixing of the organic pigments to the core. [0214] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is understood to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0215] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0216] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

[0217] Mention may be made, as an example of a lake, of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1 ).

[0218] Preferably, the pulverulent dyestuff(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a nonvolatile oil

[0219] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer (also called silicone elastomer) conveyed in at least one silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil as described above.

[0220] For the purposes of the invention, the term "conveyed" means that the elastomer is introduced into the composition in a form predispersed in at least one silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in at least one silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C.

[0221] Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil.

[0222] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" means a soft, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and possesses a limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

[0223] It is more particularly a crosslinked silicone elastomer. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-spherical particles.

[0224] However, preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the composition according to the invention is conveyed in at least one silicone oil chosen in particular from non-phenyl silicone oils, phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.

[0225] More advantageously, the silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-phenyl silicone oils, in particular from oils bearing the INCI name "dimethicone".

[0226] The elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from nonemulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers.

[0227] The term "nonemulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene units) or polyglyceryl units.

[0228] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, notably in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

[0229) Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0230] Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0231] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0232] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 10’⁶ mm²/s (centistokes), in particular in order to be readily miscible with compound (B).

[0233] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

[0234] Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0235] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

[0236] The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.

[0237] Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. In addition to the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) can be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0238] According to another variant, compound (B) can be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position of the molecule but are preferably located at the ends. By way of example, mention may be made of hexadiene, in particular of 1 ,5-hexadiene. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0239] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1 .5/1 to 20/1 .

[0240] Compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support. [0241] Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0242] Use may be made, for example, as nonemulsifying elastomers, of those sold under the names DC 9040®, DC 9041®, DC 9509® and DC 9505® by Dow Coming.

[0243] It is also possible to use those sold under the names KSG-6®, KSG15®, KSG-16®, KSG-18, KSG-41®, KSG-42®, KSG-43®, KSG-44®, X-25-7034H® by Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel®, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel®, Gransil SR DC556 Gel® by Gransil RPS of Grant Industries; 1229-02-167®, 1229-02-168® and SFE 839®, Gransil DMG-6® (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11) from General Electric.

[0244] According to a particularly preferred form, an organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a dimethicone with the following INCI name will be used: Dimethicone (and) DimethiconeA/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as the products sold under the trade names KSG-6®, KSG-16®,X-25-7034H® by Shin-Etsu.

[0245] The composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in an active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic compositions

[0246] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0247] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.

[0248] The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and/or makeup products, such as:

- additional active agents, such as hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof;

- sunscreens;

- additional dyestuffs;

- fillers;

- lipophilic thickeners;

- fragrances; - preserving agents;

- antioxidants;

- chelating agents;

- neutralizing agents;

- and mixtures thereof.

[0249] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.

Additional dyestuffs

[0250] A composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble dyestuff and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251 ] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the desired intensity of the color effect and to the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0252] The additional dyestuffs suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

[0253] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fat-soluble dyestuff" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound which is soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and which is capable of imparting color.

[0254] As fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0255] The additional dyestuffs suitable for the invention can be water-soluble.

[0256] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color.

[0257] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.

Fillers

[0258] The compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one filler which makes it possible in particular to confer on them additional properties of improved stability, wear property, coverage and/or mattness.

[0259] The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0260] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0261 ] Preferably, they will be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0262) The term "synthetic compound" refers to any compound which is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a compound of natural origin.

[0263] The term "compound of natural origin" refers to any compound obtained from a plant, which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.

[0264] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous forms or of any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0265] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and the compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0266] As examples of mineral fillers, mention may be made of talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica such as amorphous silica microspheres, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Solesphere H 51® or Sunsphere H 51® by AGC Si-Tech, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with the INCI name: Silica Silylate, such as the commercial product sold under the name Dowsil VM-2270 Aerogel® Fine Particles by Dow Chemical; kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0267] According to a particular embodiment, a mineral filler chosen from synthetic fluorphlogopites, amorphous silica microspheres, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0268] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as the product sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0269] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Lipophilic thickeners

[0270] Depending on the viscosity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickeners which are lipophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in the oily phase, may be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0271] Preferably, the lipophilic thickeners will be chosen from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.

[0272) Mention may be made, for example, as lipophilic gelling agents, of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38® from Rheox), hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE® by Rheox.

[0273] According to a specific embodiment, said composition additionally comprises j) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin and/or at least one lipophilic gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin, and more preferentially at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the product sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE®" by Rheox or the product Bentone 38VCG from Elementis.

[0274] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above. [0275] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.

[0276] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, in particular of the body or of the face, especially of the face.

[0277] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

[0278] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0279] A composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.

[0280] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.

[0281] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

Packaging and applicators

[0282] The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing member.

[0283] The container may be in any suitable form. It can in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar or a case.

[0284] The closing element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid or a cover, especially of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a shutter.

[0285] The container may be combined with an applicator, notably in the form of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or of elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator can be integral with the container, such as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0286] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0287] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing.

Alternatively, the coupling between the closing element and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by gripping. The term "click-fastening" is understood in particular to mean any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing element, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord.

[0288] The receptacle may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Mention may be made, as examples of thermoplastic materials, of polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0289] The container can have rigid or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0290] The container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container can have deformable walls, so as to bring about the departure of the composition in response to an excess pressurization inside the container, which excess pressurization is brought about by the elastic (or nonelastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0291 ] The container can be equipped with a drainer positioned in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and optionally the rod to which it may be integrally attached. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0292] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise mentioned.

[0293] The expressions "between ... and ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0294] The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

Example 1

[0295] Composition 1 according to the invention was prepared. [0296] [Table 1]

Protocol for preparing example 1

[0297] The preparation process was carried out cold in a cold water bath with ice. Disteardimonium hectorite and dimethicone 2 cst are pre-dispersed in phase A1 for more than 15 minutes in a Moritz rotor mixer at a speed of 1500-1800 rpm. Phase A2 was then added to the Moritz mixer for more than 10 minutes at a speed of 1500- 1800 rpm. Phase A3 was then added to the Moritz mixer for more than 5 minutes at a speed of 1500-1800 rpm. Phase A4 was then added to the mixer at the same speed for more than 10 minutes and then phase A5 was added for more than 5 minutes. Phase B1 was added to the mixer to form the emulsion for 15 minutes at a speed of 200 rpm and phase C was then added for more than 5 minutes at 2500 rpm. The pH of phase B1 was verified at the end (pH between 4 and 7). Heating was carried out in a water bath at 50°C. The following active agents were added in the following order: caffeine, niacinamide and sodium hyaluronate. When these were well solubilized, the other ingredients of phase B1 were added while checking for the absence of grains before emulsion. The mixture was left to cool at ambient temperature. After production of the white base, phase D was added and dispersed for 25-30 minutes with a deflocculating paddle, while checking for good dispersion of the pigments.

Stability tests

[0298] Example 1 was introduced in a proportion of 20 g into a glass pill dispenser. The pill dispenser was placed in a Heraeus Voetsch® cycle oven for 10 days. Every 24 hours, the pill dispenser was subjected to the following four 6-hour temperature cycles:

6 hours at +20°C

6 hours of gradual temperature drop from 20°C to -20°C

6 hours at -20°C

6 hours of gradual temperature rise from -20°C to +20°C

[0299] After ten days, the appearance of example 1 was observed i) macroscopically with the naked eye; and ii) microscopically with a Leica DM2500® microscope with a X10 magnification.

[0300] Example 1 was introduced in a proportion of 20 g into a glass pill dispenser. The pill dispenser was placed in a Gram® refrigerator at 4°C for 2 months. [0301] After 15 days, 1 month and 2 months, the appearance of example 1 was observed i) macroscopically with the naked eye; and ii) microscopically with a Leica DM2500® microscope with a

X10 magnification.

[0302] The stability results are shown in the table below.

[0303] [Table 2]

[0304] The stability tests showed that example 1 according to the invention was stable, homogeneous and crystal-free. In addition, the composition of example 1 exhibited good coverage, a uniform appearance, good wear of the makeup, good comfort on application and good optical effects for correcting relief or coloring imperfections.

Claims

[Claim 1] A composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile oil and ii) at least one nonvolatile oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the amount of water is less than 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer; and d) at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from linear polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxanes with an HLB < 8.0; and e) at least one hyaluronic acid; and f) at least one vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof; and g) at least one xanthine base and/or a plant extract containing same.

[Claim 2] The composition as claimed in claim 1 , comprising an oily phase in a content ranging from 25% to 85%, in particular from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 3] The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the nonvolatile oil is chose from nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, nonvolatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 4] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[Claim 5] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile silicone oil is dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[Claim 6] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises a mixture of volatile oils comprising isodecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[Claim 7] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil(s) are present in an amount ranging from 25% to 85%, in particular from 20% to 35%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 9] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonvolatile silicone oil is a phenyl silicone oil, in particular an oil with the INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone.

[Claim 10] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises a mixture of nonvolatile oils comprising isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone.

[Claim 11]The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile oil(s) are present in an amount ranging from 25% to 85%, in particular from 25% to 35%, more particularly from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 12] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of water ranges from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 13] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 7% by weight, of active material of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 14] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is chosen from:

- silicone resins;

- block ethylenic copolymers;

- silicone-acrylate copolymers;

- mixtures thereof.

[Claim 15] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

[Claim 16] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant has the following formula (I): [Chem 8]

wherein Ri , R2 and R3, independently of one another, are a Ci-Ce alkyl radical or a - (CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH₂CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

[Claim 17] The composition as claimed in claim 16, wherein, in the compound of formula (I), R1 and R3 denote methyl,

R2 is -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH₂CH2)z-OR4 and R4 is a hydrogen.

[Claim 18] The composition as claimed in claim 17, wherein x is 0.

[Claim 19] The composition as claimed in claim 17, wherein z is 0.

[Claim 20] The composition as claimed in claim 16, wherein, in the compound of formula (I), R1 and R₃ denote -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH₂CH2)z-OR4, R2 is methyl and R4 is hydrogen.

[Claim 21 ] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is chosen from those with the following INCI name:

- PEG/PPG-8/8 Dimethicone;

- the Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone and Dimethicone mixture;

- the Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture;

- the Cyclotetrasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture;

- the Dimethicone and PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone mixture; - the PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone and C13-C16 Isoparaffin and C10-C13 Isoparaffin mixture;

- PEG-3 Dimethicone;

- PEG-10 Dimethicone;

- mixtures thereof.

[Claim 22] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated linear polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant is a mixture comprising 1 ) dimethicone and Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone and 2) PEG-10 dimethicone.

[Claim 23] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linear oxyalkylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane emulsifying surfactant(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight and even more preferentially ranging from 1 % to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 24] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof is present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 25] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vitamin B3 is niacinamide.

[Claim 26] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof are present in concentrations of active material of less than 5.0% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 2% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 27] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the xanthine base is chosen from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and acefylline, and more particularly caffeine.

[Claim 28] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the xanthine base(s) are present in concentrations of active material of less than 2% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 29] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pulverulent dyestuff, in particular chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides and mixtures thereof, more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[Claim 30] The composition as claimed in claim 29, wherein the pulverulent dyestuff(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 31] The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least one silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil, in particular in gel form; more preferentially, said elastomer is nonemulsifying, and more particularly has the INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

[Claim 32] The composition as claimed in claim 31 , wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 1 .0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 33] A cosmetic process for coating, notably making up, keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, the hands, the eyelids, the cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, to said keratin materials.