Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows. In particular, said cosmetic composition is a composition for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular a process for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes.
The composition used may especially be in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, or an eyebrow product. More preferentially, the invention relates to a mascara. The term "mascara" means a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also known as a base coat), a composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as a top coat, or a cosmetic composition for treating the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.
Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents. The present patent application more specifically relates to water-based mascaras.
Keratin fibre coating compositions of such a mascara type generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed from one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system or conveyed in an organic solvent.
The application of mascara is in particular directed towards increasing the volume of the eyelashes and consequently increasing the intensity of the gaze. Numerous thickening or volumizing mascaras exist to do this, the principle of which consists in depositing a maximum amount of material onto the eyelashes so as to obtain this volumizing (or charging) effect. It is in particular by means of the amount of solid particles that the desired application specificities for compositions may be adjusted, for instance their fluidity or consistency, and also their thickening power (also known as the charging or makeup power). These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara by means of an emulsifying system composed of one or more surfactant(s). However, a particular problem encountered with non-ionic surfactants is that their emulsifying power is reduced at high temperature (45°C) because of the decrease in their HLB value within the Griffin meaning, these surfactants no longer being soluble, in particular those having an alkoxylated part, in particular oxyethylenated part, giving rise here again to aggregation of materials (waxes in particular).
An objective of the present application is more particularly to propose a stable mascara having a texture which is sufficiently thick to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, enabling easy application to the eyelashes and an even deposit, i.e. which is smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at 4°C.
An objective of the present application is also to propose a stable mascara having a texture which is sufficiently thick to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, enabling easy application to the eyelashes and an even deposit, i.e. which is smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at 45°C.
An objective of the present application is more particularly to propose a stable mascara having a texture which is sufficiently thick to obtain a charging deposit, of satisfactory consistency, enabling easy application to the eyelashes and an even deposit, i.e. which is smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at temperatures fluctuating between 4°C and 45°C.
An objective of the present application is more particularly to propose a mascara in which the waxes are homogeneously dispersed. An objective of the present application is more particularly to propose a mascara in which the pigments are homogeneously dispersed.
An objective of the present application is more particularly to propose a mascara which is pleasant to apply. An objective of the present invention is more particularly to propose a composition for coating keratin fibres that allows good separation of the eyelashes during its application, without formation of bunches of eyelashes, and while ensuring smooth and uniform deposition of material (without clumps of composition).
An objective of the present invention is more particularly to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, that has good application properties in terms of glide and playtime.
An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which gives rise to a volume effect on the eyelashes. An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has a good wear property on the eyelashes.
An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which gives rise to a charging or covering deposit.
An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good lengthening properties for the eyelashes coated with such a composition.
An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good curling properties for the eyelashes coated with such a composition.
An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good black intensity, from a colorimetry and chromaticity point of view. An objective of the present invention is also to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which has good adhesion on the eyelashes. Consequently, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably the eyelashes, preferably a mascara composition, of the emulsion type, preferably wax(es) in water, comprising:
- an aqueous phase,
- at least one wax, and
- an emulsifying system comprising:
i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value within the Griffin sense, at 25°C, greater than or equal to 8, and
ii) at least one basic amino acid,
in which the total content of basic amino acid(s) and the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C are such that the weight ratio of the basic amino acid(s) to the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C is greater than or equal to 1 , preferentially ranging from 1 .5 to 10, even more preferentially from 2 to 8. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present application have solved this or these problem(s) by means of such a composition. In particular, a composition in accordance with the invention gives rise to a stable, creamy composition with a homogeneous and even dispersion of waxes, even after 2 months, whether at 45°C or at 4°C. It appears that such a composition also has a good dispersion of pigments. Such a composition is also pleasant to apply.
According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
- at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously, and - at least one applicator for the composition, said applicator comprising means, where appropriate in relief, configured to come into contact with said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Such reliefs may comprise teeth, bristles or the like. Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and/or heating said composition.
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for packaging and applying a composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:
a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously,
an applicator for said composition.
Said applicator may be rigidly attached to a gripping member forming a cap for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing aperture of the device for packaging said composition.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is also a process for coating keratin fibres, and in particular for making up the eyelashes, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously.
According to particular preferred embodiments of the present invention:
- the emulsion is of the wax(es)-in-water type;
- said composition comprises a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase;
- the fatty phase predominantly comprises waxes;
- said composition comprises one or more wax(es), preferably several;
- this or these wax(es) is (are) chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, waxy copolymers, in particular the ethylene/vinyl acetate copolymer, and esters thereof, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluoro waxes, and mixture(s) thereof; - said composition comprises at least one wax chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax and rice wax, and mixture(s) thereof;
- the fatty phase comprises predominantly waxes, preferably a mixture of polar wax(es) and non-polar wax(es);
- the non-polar wax(es) is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes, preferably from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes, and mixture(s) thereof;
- the total content of polar wax(es) is greater than or equal to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of competition, preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- the polar wax(es) is (are) chosen from ester waxes, alcohol waxes and silicone waxes, and mixture(s) thereof;
- said composition comprises at least:
* one ester wax chosen from:
i) waxes of formula iCOO2 in which R-i and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 10 to 50, which can contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which ranges from 25 to 120°C;
ii) bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate;
iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO- R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C3o aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and which is preferably linear and unsaturated;
iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with alcohol; and v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax; vi) and mixture(s) thereof;
* at least one alcohol wax, and mixture(s) thereof;
* at least one silicone wax, and mixture(s) thereof;
and the mixture of several of these waxes;
- said composition comprises at least one polar wax, preferably at least two polar waxes, chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax, and mixture(s) thereof;
- the total content of non-polar wax(es) and the total content of polar wax(es) are such that the weight ratio of non-polar wax(es) to the polar wax(es) is greater than or equal to 1/3;
- said composition comprises at least 20% by weight of non-polar wax(es), preferably at least 40% by weight of non-polar wax(es), relative to the total weight of wax(es);
- the total content of wax(es) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 22% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- said non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C is (are) chosen from:
- alkoxylated glycerol ethers:
- alkoxylated alcohols;
- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol;
- esters of fatty acids and of glycerol ethers which are optionally alkoxylated;
- esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol ethers which are alkoxylated;
- dimethicone copolyol;
- dimethicone copolyol benzoate;
- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide;
- and mixture(s) thereof;
- said non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C is (are) chosen from:
- alkoxylated glycerol ethers comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units; - alkoxylated C12-C22 fatty alcohols comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units;
- esters of C12-C22 fatty acids and of alkoxylated glycerol ethers comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units;
- and mixture(s) thereof;
- said non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at
25°C is (are) chosen from alkoxylated C12-C22 fatty alcohols comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, preferably from alkoxylated Ci6-Ci8fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units;
- the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1 % by weight, in particular inclusively between 0.1% and 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C and the total content of wax(es) are such that the weight ratio of non- ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C to wax(es) is less than 1/10, preferably than 1/20, more preferentially than 1/50, in particular inclusively between 1/10 and 1/100;
- the composition does not comprise any anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant;
- the basic amino acid(s) is (are) preferably chosen from arginine, histidine and lysine, and mixture(s) thereof, and preferably comprise(s) arginine;
the total content of basic amino acid(s) is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferentially ranges from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- said non-ionic surfactant(s) has (have) an HLB value within the Griffin sense, at 25°C, greater than or equal to 10, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 12;
the cosmetic composition does not contain any C16-C22 fatty acid in acid form, in particular does not contain any stearic acid in acid form (i.e. in a form not neutralized with a salt);
the cosmetic composition comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer, preferably a hydrophilic film-forming polymer;
- said composition is free of organic solvent or oil; - the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil which is optionally volatile, for example hydrocarbon-based;
- said composition comprises at least one oil which is optionally non-volatile, for example hydrocarbon-based;
- the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one pulverulent colorant chosen from pigments, and preferably chosen from metal oxides, in particular iron oxides and titanium oxides;
- the metal oxide(s) is (are) preferably present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
- the composition has a neutral or basic pH, preferably between 7 and 9;
- the composition is a makeup composition, a makeup base, a "top coat" composition to be applied over a makeup, or a cosmetic composition for treating or caring for keratin fibres;
- said composition has a viscosity at 20°C of between 30 and 300 poises, better still between 60 and 150 poises. The viscosity measurement is performed at 20°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s
Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow. Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which may form a continuous phase of the composition.
The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.
In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and water-miscible.
The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, and glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present patent application in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, preferentially ranging from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 45% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty phase
A fatty phase in accordance with the invention advantageously comprises at least one wax, chosen from at least one non-polar wax and at least one polar wax, and mixture(s) thereof.
This fatty phase may also comprise constituents chosen in particular from at least one volatile oil, at least one additional non-volatile oil and pasty fatty substances, and mixture(s) thereof.
Preferably, the fatty phase consists predominantly of waxes and even more preferentially exclusively of waxes. According to one preferred embodiment, the fatty phase comprises at least 75% by weight of wax(es) and even more preferentially at least 90% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. Waxfesl
The wax(es) under consideration in the context of the present invention is (are) generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, which is visible by X-ray diffraction observation.
Preferably, the waxes have a heat of fusion AHf of greater than or equal to 70
J/g.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise of from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise of from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:
- the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as mentioned previously corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature,
- AHf: the heat of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This heat of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
The additional wax(es) may be present in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is (they are) present in a content ranging from 22% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one non-polar wax and at least one polar wax. Non-polar waxes:
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one non-polar wax.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar wax" is intended to mean a wax for which the solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point as defined below, 8a , is equal to 0 (J/cm3)½.
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
- δρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- 8h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc);
- 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (δρ2 + 5h2)½
The parameters δρ, 5h, 5D and 8a are expressed as (J/cm3)½. Non-polar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon-based waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
In particular, the expression "non-polar wax" is understood to mean a wax that consists solely of non-polar wax, rather than a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not non-polar waxes.
As illustrations of non-polar waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixture(s) thereof.
Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt. As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention as non-polar wax, mention may be made in particular of polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of non-polar wax(es) of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content of non-polar wax(es) ranging from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 12% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Said composition comprises at least 20% by weight of non-polar wax(es), preferably at least 40% by weight of non-polar wax(es), relative to the total weight of wax(es).
Polar wax
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one polar wax.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" is intended to mean a wax for which the solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point, δβ , is other than 0 (J/cm3)½
In particular, the term "polar wax" means a wax of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprises at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
The polar wax(es) may in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro or silicone wax(es), preferably hydrocarbon-based.
The term "silicone wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.
The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
As a hydrocarbon-based polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes, more preferentially ester waxes, is in particular preferred.
The expression "ester wax" is understood according to the invention to mean a wax comprising at least one ester function. The expression "alcohol wax" is understood according to the invention to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
In particular, use may be made, preferably, as an ester wax, of those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R1COO 2 in which R-i and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as an ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant; ii) bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene; iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C3o alkyi group (alkyi group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C3o aliphatic group (alkyi group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and which is preferably linear and unsaturated; iv) mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated copra oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim; such waxes are described in application FR-A- 2792190, and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as the product sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57; or else v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, beeswax esterified with an oxyethylene group, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax; vi) and mixture(s) thereof.
According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. The expression "alcohol wax" is understood according to the invention to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include for example the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
According to a second embodiment, the polar wax may be a silicone wax such as siliconized beeswax, or an alkyi dimethicone such as the C30-C45 alkyi dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by Momentive Performance Materials. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of polar wax(es), and advantageously of polar hydrocarbon-based wax, of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content of polar wax(es) ranging from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 12% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least 50% by weight of polar wax(es) relative to the total weight of wax(es)
The total content of non-polar wax(es) and the total content of polar wax(es) are such that the weight ratio of non-polar wax(es) to polar wax(es) is greater than or equal to 1/3. Organic solvent or oil
The compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one organic solvent or oil.
The compositions according to the invention can in particular comprise at least one oil chosen from at least one non-volatile oil and at least one volatile oil, and a mixture thereof.
Non-volatile oil
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).
Said at least one non-volatile oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon-based oils.
The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C28, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes or squalane, and mixtures thereof;
- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:
- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
A composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C28, in particular palm oil and jojoba oil. A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile silicone oil(s). A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in a composition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oil
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.
The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
This volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkane(s). The expression "one or more volatile branched alkane(s)" means, without preference, "one or more volatile branched alkane oil(s)".
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, for instance C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8-C-|6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane.
The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane(s). The term "one or more volatile linear alkane(s)" means, without preference, "one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)".
A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
A "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C), and which in particular has an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm2/min, at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms.
As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11 ), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11 ) and n- tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 , and especially a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C1 1/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes, in particular an n- undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155 059). As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible with cosmetic use.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of volatile silicone oil.
Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclic polysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile fluoro oil.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned include nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile oil. However, at least one volatile oil may be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight. In particular, the volatile oil may be present ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pasty fatty substances
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end melting point of less than
60°C.
Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa.
Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have, in the solid state, a crystal organization, which is visible by X-ray diffraction characterization.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
As regards the measurement of the melting point and the determination of the end melting point, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C and withdrawn with magnetic stirring using a spatula that is also heated, is placed in a hermetic aluminium capsule, or a crucible. Two tests are performed to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
The measurements are performed on the abovementioned calorimeter. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is performed by an RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: it is first placed at a temperature of 20°C, and then subjected to a first temperature rise passing from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, then is cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of paste or wax as a function of the temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The end melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the abovementioned colorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C/minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The heat of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
As regards the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
The pasty fatty substance is placed in a mould 75 mm in diameter, which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal history and to control the crystallization, the mould is placed in a Votsch VC 0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, and then subjected to a temperature rise ranging from 0°C to 20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
The compression force measurement is taken using a TA/TX2i texturometer from Swantech. The spindle used is chosen according to the texture:
- cylindrical steel spindle 2 mm in diameter for very rigid starting materials;
- cylindrical steel spindle 12mm in diameter for starting materials which are not very rigid.
The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/8, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum force value reached; a second "relaxation" step where the spindle remains at this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third "withdrawal" step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.
The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:
lanolin and derivatives thereof;
petroleum jelly, in particular the product of which the I NCI name is petrolatum and which is sold under the name Ultima White PET USP by the company Penreco;
- polyol ethers chosen from polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil;
polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds;
- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds;
vinyl polymers, in particular:
• olefin homopolymers and copolymers,
• hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
• linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
• oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C3o alkyl groups, • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C3o alkyl groups;
liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2- C100 and preferably C2-C5o diols;
- esters;
and/or mixtures thereof.
The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, especially a hydrocarbon-based polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made especially of copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:
esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters,
fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, for instance triglycerides of fatty acids, which are especially do-C-is, and partially or totally hydrogenated, such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol,
pentaerythritol esters,
and mixtures thereof,
esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: Bis-Behenyl/lsostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl/lsostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
- mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn,
shea butter, in particular the product for which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AarhusKarlshamn,
- and mixtures thereof.
Among the pasty compounds, bis-behenyl/iso-stearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl, bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate), hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example isocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by Nisshin Oil, mango butter, shea butter, or vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymers, or mixture(s) thereof, will preferably be chosen.
A composition according to the invention is preferably free of pasty fatty substance. However, a composition according to the invention may comprise one or more pasty fatty substances in a total content of greater than or equal to 0.01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 0.1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Emulsifying system
The compositions according to the invention comprise a main emulsifying system comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value within the Griffin sense, at 25°C, greater than or equal to 8, and at least one basic amino acid.
According to the invention, the total content of basic amino acid(s) and the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C are such that the weight ratio of the basic amino acid(s) to the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C is greater than or equal to 1 , preferentially ranging from 1.5 to 10, even more preferentially from 2 to 8.
The term "main surfactant system" means a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.
The term "stable" advantageously means a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45°C for two months, does not have, after returning to ambient temperature, any grains that are perceptible to the touch, when a thin layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers. Non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8
A composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value within the Griffin sense, at 25°C, greater than or equal to 8, preferably strictly greater than 8, preferentially greater than or equal to 10, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 12.
The GRIFFIN HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the non-ionic surfactants.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than 8 at 25°C is (are) preferably chosen from:
- alkoxylated, in particular oxyethylenated, glycerol ethers comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units;
- alkoxylated, preferably oxyethylenated alcohols, which can comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, which are especially C8- C24, and preferably C12-C22, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20) for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, ethoxylated cetyl alcohol comprising 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteth-20), ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C12-15 Pareth-7) for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25- 7® by Shell Chemicals;
- esters of a fatty acid, in particular a C8-C24 and preferably CiS-C22 fatty acid, and of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which can comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units), such as the PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P® by the company Uniqema, or else PEG-75 stearate;
- esters of a fatty acid, in particular a C8-C24 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid, and of alkoxylated, in particular oxyethylenated, glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat L® sold by the company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat I® from the company Goldschmidt;
- esters of a fatty acid, in particular a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 fatty acid, and of alkoxylated, in particular oxyethylenated, sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units), for instance the polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema;
- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;
- dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as the product sold under the names Finsolv SLB 101® and 201 ® by the company Fintex;
- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates;
and mixtures thereof.
The EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers formed from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a-OH,
in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100. The EO/PO polycondensates preferably have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, said EO/PO polycondensates have a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably of greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud point is measured according to the standard ISO 1065. Mention may be made, as EO/PO polycondensate which can be used according to the invention, of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the Synperonic® names, such as Synperonic PE/L44® and Synperonic PE/F127®, by I CI .
A preferred emulsifying system of the invention comprises more particularly at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, chosen from alkoxylated glycerol ethers comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, alkoxylated C12-C22 fatty alcohols comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, esters of a C12-C22 fatty acid and of glycerol ethers, which are preferably alkoxylated, comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, and mixture(s) thereof.
Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C comprise(s) at least one alkoxylated C12-C22 fatty alcohol comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units, and is (are) preferably from alkoxylated Ci6-Ci8 fatty alcohols comprising from the 10 to 50 oxyethylene units.
The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C and the total content of wax(es) are such that the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C to wax(es) is less than or equal to 1/10, preferably less than or equal to 1/20, even more preferentially less than or equal to 1/50, in particular inclusively between 1/10 and 1/100.
In particular, this or these non-ionic surfactant(s) with an H LB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C may be present in a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In general, this or these non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Basic amino acid(s)
The basic amino acid(s) in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably chosen from arginine, histidine and lysine, and mixture(s) thereof. This (these) basic amino acid(s) may be in L or D isomer form, preferably in L isomer form.
According to one preferred embodiment, the basic amino acid is arginine, preferably L-arginine.
The total content of basic amino acid(s), and in particular of arginine, is preferably greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, in particular inclusively between 0.5% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Co-surf actant(s)
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more co-surfactants.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one co-surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The total content of co-surfactant(s) is preferably inclusively between 0.01 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional surfactant(s)
A composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactant(s) distinct from the emulsifying system described above.
According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional surfactant(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-ionic additional surfactant(s) with an HLB value within the Griffin sense, at 25°C, of less than 8, nor any anionic, cationic or amphoteric additional surfactant(s).
A preferred emulsifying system of the invention comprises:
- at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C comprising at least one alkoxylated C12-C22 fatty alcohol comprising from 5 to 100 oxyethylene units in a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- at least one basic amino acid, in particular arginine, in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition does not contain any C16-C22 fatty acid in acid form, in particular does not contain any stearic acid in acid form (i.e. in a form not neutralized with a salt).
According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises less than 1 % and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, and better still is free of triethanolamine.
According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises less than 1 % and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine stearate, and better still is free of triethanolamine stearate.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of additional emulsifying system relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 1% by weight, or preferentially is free of additional surfactant. In particular, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of additional ionic surfactant, in particular of additional anionic surfactant and of additional non-ionic surfactant.
Film-forming polymer
The compositions according to the present patent application preferably contain at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic, preferably hydrophilic, film-forming polymer.
In the present patent application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous deposit and preferably a cohesive deposit, better still a deposit of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated individually, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
In general, the content of "film-forming polymer" solids in the compositions according to the present patent application ranges from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer or may be in dispersion in an aqueous medium.
Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include:
- proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;
- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;
- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;
- alginates and carrageenans;
- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;
- shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;
- deoxyribonucleic acid;
- mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfates;
and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
As an aqueous dispersion of a film-forming polymer, use may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A- 1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia- Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Corning, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer Allianz Opt® by the company Rohm and Haas or alternatively the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure
UR-445® and Sancure 2060® by the company Noveon, Impranil 85® by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM®, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate, for instance Vinybran® from the company Nisshin Chemical or those sold by the company Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamido ammonium chloride, such as Styleze W from ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, such as those sold under the references Hybridur® by the company Air Products or Duromer® from National Starch, core/shell dispersions: for example, those sold by the company Atofina under the reference Kynar (core: fluorinated- shell: acrylic) or else those described in document US 5 188 899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a variant or additionally, a lipophilic polymer which can be in solution or in dispersion in a nonaqueous solvent phase.
Colorants
The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one colorant.
This (or these) colorant(s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent colorants, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent colorant. The pulverulent colorants may be chosen from pigments and nacres, and preferably from pigments.
The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11 , D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.
Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.
These colorants may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the colorant(s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxides that are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fillers
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.
The fillers may be selected from those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of mica, talc, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, poly-p-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetra-fluoro-ethylene polymers, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.
It is also possible to use a compound that is capable of swelling on heating, and especially heat-expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer or copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.
The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 25% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fibres
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fibre that can improve the lengthening effect.
In the case of the preparation of a top coat containing fibres intended to cover a base coat composition in accordance with the invention, the inventors were able to observe that the non-volatile oil according to the invention facilitated the placing of the fibres at the end of the natural eyelashes.
The term "fibre" should be understood as meaning an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fibre is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or aspect ratio) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500 and more particularly from 5 to 150.
The fibres that may be used in the composition of the invention may be mineral or organic fibres, of synthetic or natural origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may especially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury.
In particular, the fibres have a length ranging from 1 μηπ to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their cross section may be included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μπι, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μπι and more particularly from 1 μηπ to 50 μηη. The weight or yarn count of fibres is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn. The fibres according to the invention can in particular have a count chosen within the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and especially from 0.18 to 18 denier.
The fibres that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibres, and may be mineral or organic fibres, of synthetic or natural origin.
Moreover, the fibres may or may not be surface-treated, may be coated or uncoated, and may be coloured or uncoloured.
As fibres that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibres such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibres or rigid fibres such as polyimideamide fibres, for instance those sold under the names Kermel® and Kermel Tech® by the company Rhodia or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibres sold in particular under the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours.
The fibres may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic active agents
The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescers, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a leave-in composition. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.
ASSEMBLY
An assembly for coating keratin fibres according to the invention may comprise an applicator suitable for applying said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a conditioning device suitable for receiving said composition. Applicator
The applicator may comprise means for smoothing and/or separating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs.
The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.
The applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden with composition.
The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.
The comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of a plastic.
In certain embodiments, the application member is mounted at the end of a wand, which wand may be flexible, which may contribute to improving the comfort during application.
Packaging device
The packaging device may comprise a container for housing the composition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then be withdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.
This applicator may be rigidly attached to a member for closing the container.
This closing member may form a member for gripping the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means, such as screwing, click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversibly house said applicator. This container can be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable for removing a surplus of product taken up by the applicator.
A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:
- forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows,
- leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, it being possible for the deposit to dry. It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicator may form a product container. In such a case, a container may, for example, be provided for in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the application members in relief. Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator and the packaging device to be housed separately in the same packaging article.
The preceding and following examples are given as illustrations of the present invention, and shall not limit the scope thereof.
EXAMPLES
1/ Preparation of a mascara composition according to the invention compared with two mascara compositions outside the invention.
Phase Comparative Comparative Comparative
Ingredients Composition
composition 1 composition 2 composition 3 with percentage according to
outside the outside the outside the contents the invention
invention invention invention
G Carnauba wax 7 7 7 7
G Beeswax 8 8 8 8 G Paraffin wax 13 13 13 13
G Steareth 20 (BRIJ
78 sold by the
0.5 0.5 0 0 company
UNIQEMA)
G Steareth 2 (BRIJ
72 sold by the
0 0 0.5 0 company
UNIQEMA)
G Stearic acid 0 0 0 0.5
G Pigment 8 8 8 8
A Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
A Hydroxyethylcellulo
1 1 1 1 se
A Acacia gum 4 4 4 4
A L-Arginine (from
1 0 1 1 AJINOMOTO)
A Preserving system qs qs qs qs
These compositions were prepared as follows:
/. Preparation of the fatty phase (F)
The various waxes are melted in a 500 mL double-jacketed heating pan with circulation of hot oil to control the temperature. The mixture is heated to about 96-98°C.
When the waxes are molten and homogenized, the pigments are added, and the whole is then homogenized in a Moritz blender (rotor stator stirring).
/'/'. Preparation of the aqueous phase (A)
A tall 600 ml beaker is used. The amount of water required, preheated by an electric kettle, is stirred slowly in this beaker using a Rayneri blender.
The (co)polymers and then the surfactants are successively introduced, with continued slow stirring. Between each introduction, care is taken to ensure good dissolution of the compound and homogenization of the medium. The preservatives are then added.
The aqueous phase is then placed on a water bath (nominal temperature 90- 92°C) until a temperature of 88-90°C is reached. ///'. Emulsification
When the two phases are at the desired temperature, the aqueous phase is added very slowly into the fatty phase while gradually increasing the stirring. The stirring is maintained for 10 minutes. iv. Temperature reduction
After the emulsification, the heating pan is placed on a Rayneri blender equipped with a butterfly paddle, which allows blending and homogenization during the temperature reduction, at low shear. The stirring speed is low so as not to incorporate air bubbles.
By means of an oil bath, the temperature is gradually reduced to ambient temperature (20°C), in steps of 10°C. v. End of formulation
The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out on contact with air; it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formulation and the correct dispersion of the pigments.
21 Protocols and results
The compositions prepared are subsequently observed under a microscope and then used for making up, by application of these compositions using a brush.
For comparative composition 1 outside the invention, a mascara which has a granular texture and which is too fluid is observed. The emulsion is uneven, containing numerous clumps of wax. For comparative composition 2 outside the invention, which uses a surfactant with an HLB value within the Griffin sense of less than 8, at 25°C, a mascara with a thick granular texture, which cannot be used for making up, nor packaged, is observed.
For comparative composition 3 outside the invention, which uses an anionic surfactant, stearic acid, as weight-for-weight replacement for steareth 20, and a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, such a composition gives rise to a homogeneous but grey formula which has a thick threading texture.
For the composition according to the invention, a creamy, smooth, black texture is observed. The wax emulsion is fine and even. The pigments are well dispersed. The composition obtained is nice and shiny. It is pleasant to apply and comfortable. The makeup result is smooth and even. The eyelash fringe is well-developed. In addition, these compositions are stable at 4 and 45°C for two months.
3/ Preparation of a mascara composition according to the invention compared with a mascara composition outside the invention (determination criticality of a ratio of 1 of the basic amino acid(s) to the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C).
Phase Comparative
Ingredients Composition
composition 4
with percentage according to
outside the
contents the invention
invention
G Carnauba wax 7 7
G Beeswax 8 8
G Paraffin wax 13 13
G Steareth 20 (BRIJ 78
sold by the company 0.5 0.5
UNIQEMA)
G Pigment 8 8
A Water q.s. for 100 qs 100
A Hydroxyethylcellulose 1 1
A Acacia gum 4 4
A L-Arginine (from
0.4 0.5
AJINOMOTO)
A Preserving system qs qs The same preparation protocol previously described was carried out in order to obtain the compositions above
Comparative composition 4, which has a weight ratio of basic amino acid(s) to non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C that is less than 1 , gives rise to a very coarse and non-homogeneous mascara, contrary to a test in which the ratio is 1 or more.
It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.
Throughout the application, the wording "comprising one" or "containing one" means "comprising at least one" or "containing at least one", unless otherwise specified.