TECHNICAL FIELDThis invention relates to footwear and method of constructing footwear.[0001]
BACKGROUNDThe moccasin is a construction that originated in North America where the Native Americans sewed two pieces of leather together by hand with a durable thread. For the most part, moccasins have characteristics that make it particularly well suited to provide maximum comfort to a wearer's tired and weary foot. Each style of moccasin has a unique look and feel depending on the assembly and materials used. Typically, moccasins are soft and pliable, but in order to make them durable and suitable for hard and abrasive surfaces such as cement, a rigid outsole may be attached to the bottom surface of the moccasin. This, however, takes away the “bare foot” feel of the original, authentic “True Moccasin.”[0002]
SUMMARYIn a general aspect of the invention, a method for constructing footwear includes providing a moccasin, a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole, and a cushioning layer within the cavity of the sole. The moccasin includes a plug attached to a vamp.[0003]
In embodiments of the invention, one or more of the following features may also be included. The forward portion of the sole corresponds to a region extending between a metatarsal region and a toe region of the moccasin. The method may also include providing a finished fake welt around an outer peripheral portion of the sole.[0004]
In certain embodiments, a sock liner is provided within the moccasin. The method further includes hand sewing the plug to the vamp to form an area defining a volume for receiving a wearer's foot.[0005]
As yet another feature, the method also includes providing and securing resilient material within the cavity of the outsole.[0006]
Additionally, the method includes forming a rearward portion of the moccasin to accommodate the wearer's heel.[0007]
As another feature, the method includes securely attaching the bottom surface of the moccasin to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole.[0008]
The method can also include forming a comfort moccasin by aligning a front bottom surface of the moccasin over the cushioning layer of the sole and securely attaching the moccasin in an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion of the sole.[0009]
According to another aspect of the invention, a comfort moccasin includes a moccasin including a plug attached to a vamp; a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole; and, a cushioning layer positioned within the cavity of the sole.[0010]
In embodiments of the invention, one or more of the following features may also be included. A finished fake welt is provided around an outer peripheral portion of the sole, and a sock liner is attached within the moccasin.[0011]
The forward portion of the sole corresponds to a region extending between a metatarsal region and a toe region of the moccasin. The plug is hand sewn to the vamp to form an area defining a volume for receiving the wearer's foot.[0012]
As another feature, a bottom surface of the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole. Further, the front bottom surface of the moccasin is aligned over the cushioning layer of the sole and the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion.[0013]
Additionally, a fiber tuck is positioned within a rearward portion of the moccasin. The fiber tuck is formed of a rigid fiber material and includes a metal reinforcement shank. Furthermore, the sock liner is positioned in a rearward portion of the moccasin extending from a metatarsal region to the rear portion of the moccasin, and the sock liner is positioned above the fiber tuck to provide cushioning to the wearer's foot in this region.[0014]
As yet another feature, the moccasin is lasted with a last having a convex bottom surface, and the moccasin is securely attached to the attachment area using Littleway stitching.[0015]
Embodiments may have one or more of the following advantages.[0016]
Wearers have a variety of factors to consider when choosing the right type of footwear to wear, not the last of which is comfort, the main reason wearers have preferred moccasins to other many types of footwear in the market.[0017]
The method for making footwear described above provides cushioning for the sole of the foot re-creating the “almost barefoot” feeling characteristic of traditional, authentic moccasins. The present invention provides, in other words, shock absorption to the sole of the foot where comfort is most needed.[0018]
Another advantage provided is the solid design making it durable for outdoors and street-wear usage. The footwear may be used for many years on abrasive surfaces such as cement, asphalt or any type of industrial surface without reducing the life of the footwear. The footwear can be used daily as a stylish, dress type of shoe, capable of withstanding years of outdoor use.[0019]
In addition, this method is flexible and maintains the superior qualities of the traditional, authentic moccasins, providing the relaxed feel, comfort and style of these original pieces.[0020]
Furthermore, the footwear of the present invention can be easily slipped off and on, staying securely on the wearer's foot.[0021]
Moccasins can also be worn barefoot and the footwear provides roomier toe area in the moccasin for increased comfort, which eliminates any irritation on top of toes such as blisters especially when worn barefoot. Moreover, as the forepart of the footwear has been finished in the inside part and the upper leather of the vamp is wrapped around the convex last, the need for additional insert socks is eliminated. Thus space is gained. Eliminating discomfort especially in the sole of the foot can significantly help prevent back troubles, feet soreness, and many other types of common foot ailments and injuries.[0022]
The present method also provides a durable and comfortable sole. The sole provides excellent wear characteristics, providing resistance, best performance, and long term benefits to the wearer. In addition, the footwear is lightweight with supple qualities, easy to care for, and also readily resoleable if required. Further, the stitching provided for the secure attachment of the footwear components allows the footwear to withstand constant abrasive abuse without fear of tears and rips.[0023]
The details of one or more embodiments of the invention are set forth in the accompanying drawings and the description below. Other features, objects, and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the description and drawings, and from the claims.[0024]
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGSFIG. 1 is a perspective side view of the components of a comfort moccasin.[0025]
FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 1.[0026]
FIG. 3 shows the interior components of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 2.[0027]
FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a sole.[0028]
FIG. 5 is a bottom surface view of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 1.[0029]
FIG. 6 is a pictorial side view of the sole of FIG. 5.[0030]
FIG. 7 is a perspective view of the completed comfort moccasin of FIG. 1.[0031]
DETAILED DESCRIPTIONReferring now to the figures in which identical elements are numbered identically throughout, a description of the embodiments of the present invention will now be provided.[0032]
Referring to FIG. 1, a[0033]comfort moccasin10 includes amoccasin12 and a sole14 having acushioning layer16. Thecomfort moccasin10 is built by joining themoccasin12 to the sole14 as will be described more fully below. The description of the components of thecomfort moccasin10 follows.
Referring to FIG. 2,[0034]moccasin12 has aplug18 stitched to avamp20, preferably by hand-sewing. This way, theplug18 covers the upper part of a wearer's foot and toes.
The[0035]plug18 can have various types of designs and constructions. Ornamental details may be included in theplug18. In this embodiment, theplug18 includes asaddle88 stitched to the sides of thevamp20 extending across theplug18. Thesaddle88 includes an ornamental mini chain-like decoration for a distinctive aesthetic appeal. Thesaddle88 also helps to hold theplug18 in place preventing any strain or excessive stretch on thetoe seam48. Theplug18 can also incorporate a front tie design for tying with a drawstring or laces so that themoccasin12 can be snug as desired to the wearer's foot.
The[0036]plug18, by covering the upper part of the wearer's foot, forms an internal spacing with thevamp20 where the wearer's foot is inserted, i.e., anarea50 defining a volume for placement of the foot.
The[0037]plug18 and thevamp20 are preferably made of the same material (e.g., leather). Thevamp20 may also include an inner liner (not shown) covering theside vamp34 for aesthetic or practical purposes such as absorbing moisture when the moccasin is used barefoot. Moccasins can be made from several different types of leather. The type of leather used gives the moccasin a characteristic quality and feel.Moccasin12 can be crafted out of leather, suede, moose hide, buffalo skin, cowhide, elk, sheep, deerskin, including oil tanned and glove tanned, all of which can stretch and provide a comfortable fit. The different type, thickness, and quality of leather determine not only the suppleness and comfort of the moccasin but also the years of dependable service a moccasin guarantees. The inner lining of themoccasin12 may also be made of a thinner, more absorbent and breathable type of leather, or any polyester type of material. Although leather is preferably the material of choice for quality moccasins such asmoccasin12, any suitable material with good qualities, i.e., tear resistant, durable, such as high quality stitched-in textile made of strong fiber material, may be used to make theplug18 and thevamp20.
The[0038]vamp20 includes abottom surface52 and a bottomperipheral portion79 for attachment to the sole14.Vamp20 also includes a foxing30 that includes areinforcement seam32. The foxing30 is stitched to thevamp20 which covers a heel region accommodating the wearer's foot in the rearward portion46 ofmoccasin12 for superior support in the heel area.Moccasin12 provides reinforcement in the foxing30 because this region is often crushed when inserting the foot, by straining or squeezing the foxing30 especially when wearers are in a hurry and do not use shoehorns to help put on themoccasin12 without crushing the foxing30. Accordingly, thereinforcement strip12 provides stability, durability, and secured fit.
The foxing[0039]30 and thereinforcement seam32 are machine stitched to thevamp20 from theinner side vamp34. Thevamp20 also includes aperimeter stitching33 provided continuously around an entireupper opening37 ofmoccasin12 to form a collar35. The collar35 extends the life of themoccasin12 by preventing loose threads and provides a firmer and more solid construction as well as a styled crafty appearance.
The[0040]moccasin12 also includes in thearea50 defining the volume for the wearer's foot, atoe region42, ametatarsal region44, and a rearward portion46. Themetatarsal region44 corresponds to the first metatarsal region, i.e. where themoccasin12 bends or “breaks” at the MetaTarsal Phalangeal (MTP) joint. Within thearea50, asock liner22 is positioned between themetatarsal region44 and the rearward portion46 where the heel sits. The inner components of themoccasin12 are further described with respect to FIG. 3.
Referring to FIG. 3, a[0041]sock liner22, afiber tuck68, and a metalreinforcement steel shank70 form aninner moccasin assembly23. Each of these layers may be used for alignment with the other layer components. Theinner moccasin assembly23 extends from themetatarsal region44 to the rearward portion46. In particular, the metalreinforcement steel shank70 is aligned with acenter region69 of thefiber tuck68. The metalreinforcement steel shank70 can be attached to thefiber tuck68 by fixing means such as cylindrical metal rods, screws, or pins.
The[0042]fiber tuck68 is formed of a rigid fiber material composed of cellulose fibers such as cardboard for providing structural rigidity and maintaining the shape of themoccasin12. Thefiber tuck68 can also have characteristics which are flexible, lightweight, heat insulating, breathable, and also inert against bacteria and fungus. In theinner assembly23, thefiber tuck68 is joined by the metalreinforcement steel shank70, thus providing the structural rigidity to theheel28 of themoccasin12 where it is most needed. Moreover, thefiber tuck68 and the metalreinforcement steel shank70 support theheel28 attached to the sole14.
In the[0043]inner moccasin assembly23, thesock liner22 is provided as well. Thesock liner22 is a padded structure designed to provide cushioning and support to the wearer's foot. Further, thesock liner22 is porous, having air apertures25 to increase the porosity of the alreadyporous sock liner22 for foot ventilation, drying, and comfort. Thesock liner22 includes a sock linerconvex part29 which includes air holes. Thesock liner22 is made preferably of leather but any suitable material may be used. In some embodiments, thesock liner22 may be decoratively quilted to provide an aesthetically pleasing look to the interior surface of themoccasin12. In addition, thesock liner22 includes a full foam on drill and elastic cookie arch support in the sock linerconvex part29.
Referring now to FIG. 4, the sole[0044]14 has anupper surface21 and includes a strip offinished welt24 positioned continuously around the entire contoured perimeter of the sole14. The sole14 also includes acushioning layer16 and aU-shaped heel18. The sole14 is preferably made of leather, thus providing superior defining characteristics, such as durability, style, and comfort.
The strip of[0045]finished welt24 is also preferably made of leather. Thefinished welt24 includes azigzag pattern64 in a slightly inclined position, i.e., thezigzag pattern64 has a downward-sloped design where thefinished welt24 has a slightly larger thickness in the perimeter region than in the region where the finished welt joins thecavity area27. Accordingly, the downward-sloped design of the strip offinished welt24 forms acavity26 of the sole which defines thecavity area27.
In particular, the[0046]cushioning layer16 includes reduced edges and is preferably about 3-5 mm in thickness. Thecushioning layer16 is cushy and covers the most important part of themoccasin12 where most of the shock-absorption is needed, i.e., theforward portion62 of the sole14. Because thecomfort moccasin10 uses an authentic andoriginal moccasin12, no insole or cushioning is provided in the region extending from themetatarsal region44 to thetoe region42 of themoccasin12. Thus,cushioning layer16 is critical in giving the support needed to provide the supple, soft cushioning required to obtain the “almost barefoot” feel of the original moccasins. Thecushioning layer16 is bound tightly to the sole14 by adhesive glue. Preferably, thecushioning layer16 is shaped in conformity with the sole14, and is spaced from the recessedchannel60 by about {fraction (1/4)} inch from the periphery of the sole14. When themoccasin12 is stitched to the sole14, thecushioning layer16 is held securely at its edges by the gluing.
As completed, the[0047]cushioning layer16 provides enhanced wearing comfort. Depending upon the thickness of thecushioning layer16, the fact that thecushioning layer16 is provided in thecavity26 of the sole14 and not in themoccasin12 increases the space needed for the toes because no insole or cushioning layer need to be provided in themoccasin12. This way, aroomier moccasin12 results greatly enhancing the benefits of thecomfort moccasin10.
The sole[0048]14, although preferably made of leather, can be also made of a monolithic synthetic composition material which is light in weight, just as wear resistant as leather, flexible, and highly resilient or elastic. The sole14 may be produced of a plastic material, for example, from a vinyl polymer, polyolefin, or polystyrene. The sole14 provides a flexible and durable structure for themoccasin12. The sole14 is also preferably designed to provide the styled silhouette and support, making thecomfort moccasin10 aesthetically desirable and comfortable for the wearer.
The sole[0049]14 includes aU-shaped heel18 having stacked characteristics. TheU-shaped heel18 is constructed of a qualityleather heel base90 having a top surface (not shown), a bottom surface (not shown), and aheel edge91 which extends continuously around the back and both sides of theheel base90. Theheel base90 includes afront edge96. Arubber lift92 is secured to the bottom surface of theheel base90, thus forming abottom heel surface94, which may be roughened or lined to provide improved traction. Both theheel edge91 and an entireperipheral surface98 of the sole14 are highly dressed and polished to display the appearance of a highly styledheel18 and sole14. Theheel base90 provides additional heel support, lift, and non-skidability. The walking surface56, especially therubber lift92, ensures that the contact between the ground and the walking surface is uniformly distributed so that thecomfort moccasin10 can be worn for prolonged duration.
Referring to FIG. 5, a walking surface[0050]56 of the sole14 is shown. A recessedchannel60 is provided in the opposite walking side of theforward portion62 of the sole14. The walking surface56 is shown with theheel28 having therubber lift92.
Referring to FIG. 6, a side view of the sole[0051]14 is shown. Theheel28 has athickness84 larger than thesole thickness86. Thethickness84 may be of any desired thickness across its length suitable for moccasin assembly and construction.
The construction method of this embodiment will now be described in conjunction with the accompanying figures.[0052]
In preparation for constructing the[0053]comfort moccasin10, theplug18 is first water-saturated. Meanwhile, thevamp20 is cut and stitched to form the collar35. Similarly, thevamp20 is water saturated for pulling around the bottom of a last (not shown) in a lasting process (not shown) which will be described further below. A last is a three-dimensional human foot form where themoccasin12 is molded. A last with a slightly convex bottom is used to create a true,authentic moccasin12. Prior to the lasting process, the components of thevamp40, i.e., the foxing30 and thereinforcement seam32 are stitched to thevamp20 in the rear section.
Also prior to the lasting process, the[0054]inner moccasin assembly23 is assembled, i.e., the metalreinforcement steel shank70 and thefiber tuck68 are attached in thecenter region69 of thefiber tuck68. This is achieved by the use of fixing means such as cylindrical metal rods, screws, or pins.
Prior to attaching the[0055]moccasin12 to the sole14, the lasting process is performed. The water-saturatedvamp20 is pulled over the convex last, i.e., covering thebottom surface52 and leaving the hand-sewing edges of thevamp20 exposed. In other words, thevamp20 is pulled around the bottom of the last. Then, thevamp20 is joined with theplug18 by means of a hand-sewing operation creating thetoe seam48, i.e., theplug18 is positioned and hand sewn to thevamp20. The sewing operation continues along theentire toe region42 of themoccasin12. The joining of these components by stitching creates a one-piece “cavity”, creating thearea50 defining a volume for placement of the wearer's foot.
Thereafter, the[0056]fiber tuck68 and the metalreinforcement steel shank70 are inserted in the rearward portion46 of themoccasin12. Next, the heelseat lasting (not shown) is performed.
The[0057]moccasin12 is now left to dry on the last after hammering of thevamp20 eliminates wrinkles. Thebottom surface52 of themoccasin12 is roughed and theoutsole14 is fixed temporarily only strongly enough to hold themoccasin12 in place while the last is removed.
A[0058]moccasin12 without the sole14 is the most traditional, authentic type of moccasin, extremely comfortable, light weight, and with a pliable softbottom surface52. A pair ofmoccasin12 without soles will last several years if worn only indoors. But for wearing outdoors, i.e., on abrasive walking surfaces such as cement, the sole14 must be provided. We now turn to the preparation and making of the sole14.
The sole[0059]14 is built using a fake welt construction. In particular the sole14 is built by joining theheel base90 to the strip offinished welt24 around the entire contoured perimeter of the sole14, thus forming theperipheral surface98 of the sole14. Therubber lift92 is attached to the rear part of the walking surface56 of the sole14. Thecushioning layer16 is adhesively attached in thecavity area27 ofcavity26 of the sole14. Theheel edge91 and theperipheral surface98 of the sole14 are polished and styled. The sole14 is now prepared and ready to be securely attached to themoccasin12.
Next, the last is removed for the Littleway stitching operation of the[0060]moccasin12 to the sole14. A sewing machine used for sewing leather articles in the footwear industry includes a moveable pivotal horn (not shown) that can be positioned within themoccasin12 from theupper opening37 of themoccasin12. The moveable horn moves around a contoured bottomperipheral portion79 in thebottom surface52 of themoccasin12 stitching themoccasin12 to the sole14 through the contoured bottomperipheral portion79. In particular, the needles of the horn follow a circular path, and the Littleway stitching is performed in the recessedchannel60 in theforward portion62 of the sole14.
Finally, the[0061]sock liner22 can be inserted through theupper opening37 made available now after removal of the last and the horn. Thesock liner22 can be adhesively combined with thefiber tuck68 in a compact fashion, securely attaching all the components of theinner moccasin assembly23. Because thecomfort moccasin10 can be made more comfortable by providing as many layers of cushion or foam inserts as desired, adequate space is provided so that the wearer may choose do add additional inserts if this is desired. Accordingly, thesock liner22 is inserted into themoccasin12 so as to be disposed only betweenmetatarsal region44 and rearward portion46 ofmoccasin12. So that thesock liner22 does not dislodge, tear or bend when inserting or removing the foot from the shoe, adhesive gluing or other secure means for attachment must be accurately performed. The completedcomfort moccasin10 is shown in FIG. 7.
Although the[0062]comfort moccasin10 is preferably built with themoccasin12, thecomfort moccasin10 may also be made with any loafer-style type of footwear which does not have an insole. Therefore, thecomfort moccasin10 is not only limited to moccasins. Moreover, the method of construction herein described relates to general methods of footwear manufacturing which are entirely within the scope of the invention. Furthermore, a number of embodiments of the invention have been described. Nevertheless, it will be understood that various modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, other embodiments are within the scope of the following claims.