CN114630649A - Solid anhydrous compositions for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials - Google Patents
Solid anhydrous compositions for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materialsDownload PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
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- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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Abstract
Translated fromChineseDescription
Translated fromChinese技术领域technical field
本发明涉及用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的组合物。更尤其，本发明涉及用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的固体无水组合物。本发明还涉及用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的美容方法。The present invention relates to compositions for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to solid anhydrous compositions for the care and/or makeup of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up keratinous materials.
背景技术Background technique
已经生产用于护理和/或化妆皮肤和/或嘴唇的组合物以满足皮肤和嘴唇的保湿或水润的需求。Compositions for the care and/or make-up of the skin and/or lips have been produced to meet the moisturizing or hydration needs of the skin and lips.
迄今，已经发表了一些涉及用于化妆和/或护理皮肤和/或嘴唇的化妆品固体组合物的现有技术文献。To date, a number of prior art documents relating to cosmetic solid compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips have been published.
WO 2012/165130公开了用于嘴唇的化妆品，其特征在于包含：(a)5至30质量％的氢化聚异丁烯；(b)30至70质量％的一种或更多种甲基苯基硅酮，当其在25℃下与(a)混合时分离；(c)0.5至15质量％的油，当其在25℃下与(a)混合以及在25℃下与(b)混合时分离；和(d)4至12质量％的蜡。WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips, characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30% by mass of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70% by mass of one or more methylphenylsilicones Ketones, which separate when mixed with (a) at 25°C; (c) 0.5 to 15 mass % oils, which separate when mixed with (a) at 25°C and (b) at 25°C ; and (d) 4 to 12 mass % wax.
WO 2013/191300公开了用于化妆和/或护理皮肤和/或嘴唇的固体化妆品组合物，其在生理学上可接受的介质中包含至少一个脂肪相，该脂肪相包含：WO 2013/191300 discloses solid cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one fatty phase comprising:
-相对于组合物的总重量计，5至30重量％的非挥发性烃化非极性油或其混合物，- 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a non-volatile hydrocarbonated non-polar oil or a mixture thereof,
-相对于组合物的总重量计，43至90重量％的总含量的非挥发性硅油，其中所述非挥发性硅油中的至少一种是非挥发性苯代硅油，和- a total content of 43 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of non-volatile silicone oils, wherein at least one of the non-volatile silicone oils is a non-volatile benzoic silicone oil, and
-相对于组合物的总重量计，3至30重量％的蜡或其混合物。- 3 to 30% by weight of wax or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.
一般而言，当女性使用化妆产品(例如唇膏或唇彩类型)时，她们希望该产品稳定并具有所需的硬度、良好的施加性质(例如滑动性)，并在嘴唇上留下具有良好光泽度的沉积物。In general, when women use a cosmetic product (eg, lipstick or lip gloss type), they want the product to be stable and have the desired hardness, good application properties (eg glide), and leave a good gloss on the lips of sediments.
然而，难以配制稳定的并呈现如上文提及的良好性质的组合物。However, it is difficult to formulate compositions that are stable and exhibit good properties as mentioned above.
因此，继续开发稳定的并具有良好滑动性，且将在角蛋白材料(例如皮肤和嘴唇，优选嘴唇)上留下有光泽的沉积物的组合物。Accordingly, the development of compositions that are stable and have good glide properties and will leave glossy deposits on keratinous materials such as skin and lips, preferably lips, continues.
发明概述SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
因此，本发明的一个目的是开发一种组合物，其是稳定的并具有良好滑动性，并将在角蛋白材料(例如皮肤和嘴唇，优选嘴唇)上留下有光泽的沉积物。It was therefore an object of the present invention to develop a composition that is stable and has good glide properties and will leave a glossy deposit on keratinous materials such as skin and lips, preferably lips.
本发明的另一个目的是提供用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料(例如皮肤和嘴唇，优选嘴唇)的美容方法，其在角蛋白材料上产生具有良好光泽度的沉积物。Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic method for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials (eg skin and lips, preferably lips) which produces deposits on the keratinous materials with good gloss.
因此，根据第一个方面，本发明提供用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的固体无水组合物，其包含：Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising:
a)至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油，a) at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil,
b)至少一种糊状化合物，其选自二聚亚油酸(dimer dilinoleic acid)和多元醇的酯或其酯，b) at least one pasty compound selected from dimer dilinoleic acid and esters of polyols or esters thereof,
c)至少一种第一蜡，其选自衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯；和c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived fromC6 -C30 fatty acids; and
d)至少一种第二蜡，其选自不同于衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的基于烃的蜡。d) At least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than those derived from solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids.
根据第二个方面，本发明提供用于护理和/或化妆角蛋白材料的美容方法，其包含将如上所述的固体无水组合物施加于角蛋白材料。According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up a keratinous material, comprising applying to a keratinous material a solid anhydrous composition as described above.
已经发现，利用以下组分的组合，所获得的固体无水组合物具有所需的硬度和良好滑动性，并在角蛋白材料(例如皮肤和嘴唇)上留下有光泽的沉积物：a)至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油；b)至少一种糊状化合物，其选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯；c)至少一种第一蜡，其选自衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯；和d)至少一种第二蜡，其选自不同于衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的基于烃的蜡。It has been found that with a combination of the following components, solid anhydrous compositions are obtained that have the desired hardness and good glide properties, and leave glossy deposits on keratinous materials such as skin and lips: a) at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; b) at least one pasty compound selected from esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof; c) at least one first wax, which selected from solid linear esters derived fromC6 -C30 fatty acids; and d) at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than those derived from solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids.
另外，根据本发明的固体无水组合物是稳定的，即，其在20℃、37℃和45℃下保持2个月之后不失效(lapse)。In addition, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable, ie it does not lapse after being kept at 20°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months.
发明详述Detailed description of the invention
除非另外指明，否则如本文所使用的数值范围的上下限被包括在该范围内，在表述“介于……和……之间”和“范围从......至......”中尤其如此。Unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of a numerical range as used herein are included within that range, in the expressions "between" and "range from... to.... .." in particular.
如本文所使用的术语“包含/包括”应解释为涵盖所有具体提及的特征以及任选的另外的未指明特征。The term "comprising/comprising" as used herein should be construed to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional additional unspecified features.
如本文所使用的，术语“包含/包括”的使用还公开了其中不存在除具体提及的特征之外的特征(即，“由……组成”)的实施方案。As used herein, use of the term "comprising/comprising" also discloses embodiments in which features other than those specifically mentioned are absent (ie, "consisting of").
除非另外定义，否则本文使用的所有技术和科学术语具有由本发明所属领域技术人员通常所理解的相同含义。当本说明书中的术语的定义与由本发明所属领域技术人员通常所理解的含义冲突时，应采用本文所描述的定义。Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. When the definitions of terms in this specification conflict with the meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which this invention belongs, the definitions described herein shall be adopted.
除非另外规定，否则说明书和权利要求书中使用的表示成分的量等的所有数值应理解为被术语“大约”修饰。因此，除非相反指明，否则本文描述的数值和参数是近似值，其能够根据按需要获得的所需性能进行改变。All numerical values used in the specification and claims indicating amounts of ingredients and the like are to be understood to be modified by the term "about" unless otherwise specified. Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximations that can be varied depending upon the desired properties to be obtained.
根据本发明的固体无水组合物包含：The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:
a)至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油，a) at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil,
b)至少一种糊状化合物，其选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯，b) at least one pasty compound selected from esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof,
c)至少一种第一蜡，其选自衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯；和c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived fromC6 -C30 fatty acids; and
d)至少一种第二蜡，其选自不同于衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的基于烃的蜡。d) At least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than those derived from solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids.
根据一个优选实施方案，所有的以下组分来源于植物：a)至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油；b)至少一种糊状化合物，其选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯；c)至少一种第一蜡，其选自衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯；和d)至少一种第二蜡，其选自不同于衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的基于烃的蜡。According to a preferred embodiment, all of the following components are of vegetable origin: a) at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; b) at least one pasty compound selected from the group consisting of dimerized linoleic acid and polybasic an ester of an alcohol or an ester thereof; c) at least one first wax selected from solid linear esters derived fromC6 -C30 fatty acids; and d) at least one second wax selected from a group other than those derived from Hydrocarbon-based waxes of solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids.
本文所使用的术语“固体”表示在根据下文描述的规程对组合物进行测量时，其在20℃和大气压(760mmHg)下的硬度大于或等于30Nm-1。The term "solid" as used herein means a composition having a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) when measured according to the procedure described below.
在测量硬度之前将待测定其硬度的组合物在20℃下储存24小时。The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20° C. for 24 hours before the hardness is measured.
可经由“干酪丝(cheese wire)”方法在20℃下测量硬度，该方法在于借助直径为250μm的硬钨丝，通过使该(钨)丝以100毫米/分钟的速度相对于产品棒移动而横向切割该棒，该棒优选为圆柱体。Hardness can be measured at 20°C via the "cheese wire" method, which consists in moving the (tungsten) wire at a speed of 100 mm/min relative to the product rod by means of a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm. The rod, which is preferably cylindrical, is cut transversely.
使用来自Indelco-Chatillon公司的DFGS2张力试验机来测量本发明组合物的样品的硬度(以Nm-1表示)。The hardness (in Nm−1 ) of samples of the composition of the invention was measured using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Indelco-Chatillon.
重复测量三次，然后取平均值。使用上文提及的张力试验机读取的三个剪切值的平均值(记作Y)，以克给出。将该平均值换算成牛顿，然后除以L，L代表该(钨)丝经过的最长距离。在圆柱棒的情况下，L等于直径(以米计)。Repeat the measurement three times and take the average value. The average of the three shear values (denoted Y) read using the above-mentioned tensile tester is given in grams. Convert this average to Newtons and divide by L, which represents the longest distance traveled by the (tungsten) wire. In the case of cylindrical rods, L equals the diameter (in meters).
通过以下方程式将硬度换算成Nm-1：The hardness is converted to Nm-1 by the following equation:
(Y×10-3×9.8)/L(Y×10-3 ×9.8)/L
针对在不同温度下的测量，在测量之前将组合物在该新温度下储存24小时。For measurements at different temperatures, the compositions were stored at the new temperature for 24 hours prior to measurement.
根据这种测量方法，根据本发明的组合物在20℃和大气压下的硬度优选大于或等于40Nm-1，且优选大于50Nm-1。According to this measurement method, the hardness of the composition according to the invention at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure is preferably greater than or equal to 40 Nm−1 , and preferably greater than 50 Nm−1 .
优选地，根据本发明的组合物在20℃下的硬度尤其小于500Nm-1，尤其小于400Nm-1且优选小于300Nm-1。Preferably, the hardness of the composition according to the invention at 20° C. is especially less than 500 Nm−1 , especially less than 400 Nm−1 and preferably less than 300 Nm−1 .
有利地，这些组合物具有范围从75gF至150gF且优选80gF至125gF的剪切值。因此，可以在不需要任何组合物支承机构的标准包装中配制这些组合物。Advantageously, these compositions have shear values ranging from 75 gF to 150 gF and preferably 80 gF to 125 gF. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support mechanism.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“无水”表示根据本发明的组合物含有相对于组合物的总重量计少于重量2％且优选少于0.5重量％的水。在适当的情况下，如此少量的水可以由以残余量含有水的组合物的成分来提供，而非有意提供。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by components of the composition containing water in residual amounts, but not intentionally.
优选地，根据本发明的“角蛋白材料”是皮肤和嘴唇。关于“皮肤”，我们意欲表示所有的身体皮肤，包括头皮。仍优选地，角蛋白材料是嘴唇。Preferably, the "keratinous material" according to the present invention is skin and lips. By "skin" we intend to mean all body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.
非极性非挥发性基于烃的油Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
根据本发明的第一个方面，固体无水组合物包含至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油。According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
关于“油”，其与本发明中描述的糊状化合物或蜡的不同在于油在室温(25℃)和大气压(760mmHg)下是液体。Regarding "oil", it is different from the pasty compound or wax described in the present invention in that the oil is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
术语“非挥发性”表示油在室温和大气压下保留在皮肤或角蛋白纤维上。更具体地，非挥发性油具有严格小于0.01mg/cm2/min的蒸发速率。The term "non-volatile" means that the oil remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, non-volatile oils have evaporation rates strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2 /min.
为了测量该蒸发速率，将15克待测试的油或油混合物置于直径为7厘米的结晶皿中，将该结晶皿置于天平上，该天平位于25℃的温度(温度调节)以及50％的相对湿度(测湿法调节)下的大约0.3立方米的大腔室中。在不对液体进行搅拌的情况下允许其自由蒸发，同时借助于以垂直位置置于容纳所述油或所述混合物的结晶皿上方的风扇(Papst-Morten，标号8550N，以2700rpm旋转)提供通风，叶片朝向结晶皿，距离结晶皿的底部20厘米。按规律间隔测量保留在结晶皿中的油的质量。以每单位面积(平方厘米)和每单位时间(分钟)蒸发的油的毫克数表示蒸发速率。To measure the evaporation rate, 15 grams of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish with a diameter of 7 cm, which is placed on a balance at a temperature of 25° C. (temperature regulation) and 50% Relative humidity (hygrometric conditioning) in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3. The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring, while ventilation was provided by means of a fan (Papst-Morten, reference 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the oil or the mixture, The leaves were oriented towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallization dish was measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is expressed in milligrams of oil evaporated per unit area (square centimeters) and per unit time (minutes).
术语“基于烃的油”表示基本上由碳原子和氢原子以及任选的氧原子和氮原子形成或者甚至由碳原子和氢原子以及任选的氧原子和氮原子构成，并且不含任何硅原子或氟原子的油。其可以含有醇、酯、醚、羧酸、胺和/或酰胺基团。The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means substantially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optional oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain any silicon atomic or fluorine atomic oil. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
基于烃的油可以来源于植物、矿物或合成，优选来源于植物。Hydrocarbon based oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably vegetable origin.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“非极性油”意欲表示其在25℃下的溶解度参数δa等于0(J/cm3)1/2的油。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose solubility parameter δa at 25°C is equal to 0 (J/cm3 )1/2 .
在C.M.Hansen的文章“The three dimensional solubility parameters”,J.Paint Technol.39,105(1967)中描述了在汉森三维溶解度空间中的溶解度参数的定义和计算。The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article "The three dimensional solubility parameters" by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
根据这种汉森空间：According to this Hansen space:
-δD表征源于分子碰撞期间诱导的偶极子形成的伦敦色散力(London dispersionforce)；- δD characterizes the London dispersion force arising from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions;
-δp表征永久偶极子之间的德拜相互作用力(Debye interaction force)以及还有诱导偶极子和永久偶极子之间的基桑相互作用力(Keesom interaction force)；- δp characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
-δh表征特定的相互作用力(例如氢键合、酸/碱、供体/受体等)；且- δh characterizes a specific interaction force (eg hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and
-δa通过方程式δa＝(δp2+δh2)1/2确定。-δa is determined by the equation δa=(δp2 +δh2 )1/2 .
参数δp、δh、δD和δa以(J/cm3)1/2表示。The parameters δp, δh,δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3 )1/2 .
优选地，非极性非挥发性基于烃的油可选自矿物或合成来源的直链烃或支链烃，例如：Preferably, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
-液体石蜡或其衍生物，- liquid paraffin or its derivatives,
-角鲨烷，例如由AMYRIS出售的NEOSSANCE SQUALANE，- Squalane, such as NEOSSANCE SQUALANE sold by AMYRIS,
-异二十烷，- Isoeicosane,
-萘油，- Naphthalene oil,
-聚丁烯、氢化聚丁烯，例如由Amoco公司出售或制造的Indopol H-100(摩尔质量或MW＝965g/mol)、Indopol H-300(MW＝1340g/mol)和Indopol H-1500(MW＝2160g/mol)，- polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 ( MW=2160g/mol),
-聚异丁烯、氢化聚异丁烯，例如由Nippon Oil Fats公司出售的
-聚癸烯和氢化聚癸烯，例如由Mobil Chemicals公司出售或制造的Puresyn 10(MW＝723g/mol)和Puresyn 150(MW＝9200g/mol)、或者由ExxonMobil Chemical出售的Puresyn 6，- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, such as Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,
-癸烯/丁烯共聚物和聚丁烯/聚异丁烯共聚物，尤其Indopol L-14，以及- decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, and
-其混合物。- its mixture.
更优选地，根据本发明的组合物包含角鲨烷作为非极性非挥发性基于烃的油。More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises squalane as the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
有利地，相对于本发明组合物的总重量计，至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油按以下量存在于该组合物中：范围从5重量％至75重量％，优选10重量％至35重量％，更优选10重量％至15重量％。Advantageously, at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention % to 35% by weight, more preferably 10% to 15% by weight.
糊状化合物pasty compound
根据本发明的第一个方面，固体无水组合物包含至少一种糊状化合物，其选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯。According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one pasty compound selected from the group consisting of dimerized linoleic acid and esters of polyols or esters thereof.
本文使用的术语“糊状化合物”应理解为表示具有可逆的固/液状态变化的亲脂脂肪化合物，其在固态下表现出各向异性的晶体排列，并在23℃的温度下包含液体级分和固体级分。The term "paste-like compound" as used herein is to be understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, which exhibits anisotropic crystalline arrangement in the solid state and comprises a liquid grade at a temperature of 23°C fraction and solid fraction.
换句话说，糊状化合物的起始熔融温度小于23℃。在23℃下测量，糊状化合物的液体级分占组合物的9重量％至97重量％。在23℃下，该液体级分优选占介于15重量％和85重量％之间，更优选介于40重量％和85重量％之间。In other words, the onset melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound constituted from 9% to 97% by weight of the composition, measured at 23°C. At 23°C, the liquid fraction preferably constitutes between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
可使用诸如由TA Instruments公司以名称"DSC Q100"出售的具有软件"TAUniversal Analysis"的量热计之类的差示扫描量热计(DSC)来测量固体脂肪物质的熔点。The melting point of solid fatty substances can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) such as a calorimeter with software "TAUniversal Analysis" sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments.
测量规程如下：The measurement procedure is as follows:
将大约5毫克的固体脂肪样品置于坩埚“密封铝胶囊”中。当固体脂肪物质软(糊状脂肪化合物)时，对样品施以范围从20℃至80℃的第一次升温，以2℃/分钟的加热速率至80℃，然后保持80℃的等温20分钟，之后以2℃/分钟的冷却速率从80℃冷却至-80℃，且最后以2℃/分钟的加热速率施以从-80℃至20℃的第二次升温。A solid fat sample of approximately 5 mg was placed in a crucible "sealed aluminum capsule". When the solid fatty substance is soft (paste-like fatty compound), the sample is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from 20°C to 80°C, with a heating rate of 2°C/min to 80°C, followed by a hold isothermal of 80°C for 20 minutes , followed by cooling from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/min, and finally a second ramp from -80°C to 20°C was applied at a heating rate of 2°C/min.
固体脂肪物质的熔融温度值是观察到的熔融曲线的最吸热峰的峰值，代表作为温度的函数的吸收功率差值的变化。The melting temperature value for a solid fatty substance is the peak of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve and represents the change in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
在表述“二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯”中，术语“其酯”意欲表示按以下方式获得的这些多元醇的二聚亚油酸酯的衍生物之一：或者通过该多元醇的醇官能团(其没有用在与二亚油酸的酸官能团的酯类型键中)与除二亚油酸之外的酸分子的一个或更多个羧基官能团的反应，或者通过二亚油酸二聚体(dilinoleic dimer)的酸官能团(其没有用在与该多元醇的醇官能团的酯类型键中)与除该多元醇之外的醇分子的醇官能团的反应。In the expression "esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof", the term "esters thereof" is intended to denote one of the derivatives of dimerized linoleic acid esters of these polyols obtained either by: Reaction of the alcohol functional group of a polyol (which is not used in an ester-type bond with the acid functional group of dilinoleic acid) with one or more carboxyl functional groups of an acid molecule other than dilinoleic acid, or via dilinoleic acid Reaction of the acid functional groups of the dilinoleic dimer (which are not used in ester-type linkages with the alcohol functional groups of the polyol) with the alcohol functional groups of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.
二聚亚油酸dimerized linoleic acid
可通过至少一种亚油酸的聚合反应，特别通过至少一种亚油酸的分子间二聚来获得适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸。Dimeric linoleic acids suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by polymerization of at least one linoleic acid, in particular by intermolecular dimerization of at least one linoleic acid.
可通过将二聚反应之后剩余的双键氢化来改进该化合物的氧化稳定性。The oxidative stability of the compound can be improved by hydrogenating the double bond remaining after the dimerization reaction.
也可通过亚油酸的氢化形式的二聚来获得亚油酸二聚体。Linoleic acid dimers can also be obtained by dimerization of hydrogenated forms of linoleic acid.
酸或二酸的氢化形式可以是部分或完全的，并可例如对应于更加氧化稳定的饱和形式。The hydrogenated form of the acid or diacid can be partial or complete and can eg correspond to a more oxidatively stable saturated form.
如前文所指明的，没有参与与多元醇残基的酯键的二聚亚油酸残基的羧酸官能团可参与与除该多元醇之外的醇分子的其它醇官能团的其它酯键。As previously indicated, carboxylic acid functional groups of dimerized linoleic acid residues that do not participate in ester linkages with polyol residues may participate in other ester linkages with other alcohol functional groups of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.
这些醇分子或残基可以是一元醇或多元醇。These alcohol molecules or residues can be monohydric or polyhydric alcohols.
作为适合在本发明中使用的醇残基的实例，可提及包含羟基官能团并含有4至40个碳原子、尤其6至36个碳原子、尤其8至32个碳原子、尤其16至28个碳原子且更尤其18至24个碳原子的基于烃的化合物。As examples of alcohol residues suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of alcohol residues comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 16 to 28 carbon atoms A hydrocarbon-based compound of carbon atoms and more particularly of 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
作为适用于本发明的一元醇的实例，可以按非限制性的方式提及丁醇、戊醇、丙醇、己醇、庚醇、辛醇、癸醇、十二烷醇、十六烷醇、十八烷醇、二十烷醇、植物甾醇、异硬脂醇、硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、山萮醇等。As examples of monohydric alcohols suitable for use in the present invention, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol may be mentioned in a non-limiting manner , Stearyl alcohol, eicosanol, phytosterol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc.
多元醇Polyol
术语“多元醇”意欲表示包含至少两个羟基官能团并含有4至40个碳原子、尤其6至36个碳原子、尤其8至32个碳原子、尤其16至28个碳原子且更尤其18至24个碳原子的任何基于烃的化合物。在适当的情况下，可通过存在至少一个杂原子且特别是氧原子来中断基于烃的链。The term "polyol" is intended to mean comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more especially 18 to Any hydrocarbon-based compound of 24 carbon atoms. Where appropriate, the hydrocarbon-based chain can be interrupted by the presence of at least one heteroatom and in particular an oxygen atom.
适合在本发明中使用的多元醇或多元醇酯可包含例如2至12个羟基官能团，尤其2至8个羟基官能团且更尤其4至6个羟基官能团。Polyols or polyol esters suitable for use in the present invention may contain, for example, 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, especially 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions and more especially 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
在适当的情况下，除已经在与二聚亚油酸的酯键中采用的那些之外的羟基官能团也可经由与除二聚亚油酸之外的酸分子的反应性而完全或部分地用于其它酯键。Where appropriate, hydroxyl functional groups other than those already employed in ester linkages with dimerized linoleic acid may also be fully or partially via reactivity with acid molecules other than dimerized linoleic acid for other ester linkages.
适合在本发明中使用的多元醇或其酯可特别选自直链、支链、环状或多环状的饱和或不饱和醇。Polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
因此，多元醇可选自例如二元醇、三元醇、四元醇或五元醇、或其酯。Thus, polyols may be selected from, for example, diols, triols, tetraols or pentaols, or esters thereof.
多元醇可以是二元醇或其酯，特别选自脂肪醇二聚体、单甘油或聚甘油、C2-4单亚烷基二醇或多亚烷基二醇、1,4-丁二醇和季戊四醇。The polyols may be diols or esters thereof, in particular selected from fatty alcohol dimers, mono- or polyglycerols, C2-4 mono- or polyalkylene glycols, 1,4-butanediol alcohol and pentaerythritol.
作为也适合在本发明中使用的二元醇的实例，可以按非穷举的方式提及丁二醇、戊二醇、丙二醇、己二醇(hexanediol)、己二醇(hexylene glycol)、庚二醇、辛二醇、壬二醇、癸二醇、1-癸二醇、十二烷二醇、十三烷二醇、十四烷二醇、十五烷二醇、十六烷二醇、十九烷二醇、十八烷二醇、环己烷二醇、双甘油、赤藓糖醇、季戊四醇、木糖醇、山梨糖醇、乙二醇和二甲苯二醇、及其异构体。As examples of diols which are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in a non-exhaustive manner of butanediol, pentanediol, propylene glycol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol Diol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol , nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and their isomers .
脂肪醇二聚体也可以是脂肪酸二聚体的氢化产物，例如催化氢化产物，脂肪酸二聚体本身通过至少一种不饱和脂肪酸(特别是C8至C34不饱和脂肪酸、特别是C12至C22不饱和脂肪酸、尤其C16至C20不饱和脂肪酸且更尤其C18不饱和脂肪酸)的二聚获得。The fatty alcohol dimer can also be the hydrogenation product of a fatty acid dimer, for example a catalytic hydrogenation product, the fatty acid dimer itself being passed through at least one unsaturated fatty acid (especially aC8 to C34unsaturated fatty acid, especially aC12 to Dimerization of C22 unsaturated fatty acids, especially C16 to C20 unsaturated fatty acids and more especially C18 unsaturated fatty acids) is obtained.
根据一个特定实施方案，脂肪醇二聚体可以是二元醇二聚体，其可以是二亚油二酸(dilinoleic diacid)的氢化产物。其可以呈饱和形式。According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol dimer may be a diol dimer, which may be the hydrogenation product of dilinoleic diacid. It can be in saturated form.
脂肪醇二聚体可以是例如二亚油醇二聚体(dilinoleol dimer)。The fatty alcohol dimer may be, for example, a dilinoleol dimer.
作为可适合在本发明中使用的二元醇的实例，可特别提及双甘油。As an example of dihydric alcohols which may be suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of diglycerol.
这种化合物是由两分子甘油缩合并失去水分子产生的甘油二聚体。This compound is a glycerol dimer produced by the condensation of two molecules of glycerol and the loss of a water molecule.
术语“双甘油”表示可以由此类缩合产生的任何异构体组合，例如直链异构体、支链异构体，以及在适当情况下，由双甘油分子的分子内脱水产生的环状异构体。The term "diglycerol" refers to any combination of isomers that may result from such condensation, such as straight-chain isomers, branched-chain isomers, and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers that result from intramolecular dehydration of the diglycerol molecule isomer.
可经由本领域技术人员已知的任何方法，且特别是专利EP 0750848中描述的那些方法来获得双甘油。Diglycerol can be obtained via any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular those described in patent EP 0750848.
作为可以与多元醇的一个或更多个羟基官能团(没有用于与二聚亚油酸的酯键中)相互作用的酸分子的实例，可以按非限制性的方式提及衍生自异硬脂酸、山萮酸、植物甾酸(phytosteric acid)、硬脂酸或鲸蜡酸的分子。As an example of an acid molecule that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functional groups of a polyol (not used in the ester linkage with dimerized linoleic acid), mention may be made in a non-limiting manner from isostearyl A molecule of acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid or cetyl acid.
可以通过使多元醇或其酯与二聚亚油酸以大约1.0:0.2-1.0的摩尔比反应获得适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯。Esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyol suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or ester thereof with dimerized linoleic acid in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-1.0.
可特别通过以下方式来获得可适合在本发明中使用的酯：使二聚亚油酸与二亚油醇以及在适当的情况下至少一种附加的一元醇反应，该附加的一元醇特别选自山萮醇、异硬脂醇、植物甾醇、硬脂醇和鲸蜡醇、及其混合物。Esters suitable for use in the present invention can be obtained in particular by reacting dimerized linoleic acid with dilinoleyl alcohol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monohydric alcohol, particularly selected From behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, phytosterols, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
因此，用于本发明上下文的酯可以按例如各种酯的混合物的形式使用。Thus, the esters used in the context of the present invention can be used, for example, in the form of mixtures of various esters.
适用于本发明的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可例如通过使甘油、异硬脂酸和二聚亚油酸特别以1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9的摩尔比反应来获得。The esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared, for example, by reacting glycerol, isostearic acid and dimerized linoleic acid in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9, in particular get.
作为适用于本发明的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯的实例，可提及专利申请JP2004-256515和JP 2005-179377中描述的酯。As examples of esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP 2004-256515 and JP 2005-179377.
适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可具有以下分子量：范围从大约2000至大约25 000g/mol、尤其大约4000至大约20 000g/mol、尤其大约7000至大约15 000g/mol且更尤其大约8000至大约10000g/mol。Esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention may have molecular weights ranging from about 2000 to about 25 000 g/mol, especially about 4000 to about 20 000 g/mol, especially about 7000 to About 15 000 g/mol and more particularly about 8000 to about 10 000 g/mol.
根据一个实施方案，按照本发明的酯可包含二聚亚油酸酯残基和与所述多元醇相关(且特别与所述二元醇相关)的残基的交替序列，所述多元醇或二元醇例如如上文所定义。According to one embodiment, the esters according to the invention may comprise an alternating sequence of dimerized linoleate residues and residues associated with (and in particular associated with) said polyol, said polyol or Glycols are for example as defined above.
因此，以此类构造，所述序列的两个末端各自可分别携带单元OR'和OR"，其中R'和R"彼此独立地代表氢原子，或者OR'和OR"彼此独立地代表基于C2至C36(特别C8至C24、尤其C12至C20且更尤其C16至C18)烃的一元醇残基。Thus, in such a configuration, the two ends of the sequence may each carry the units OR' and OR", respectively, wherein R' and R" independently of each other represent a hydrogen atom, or OR' and OR" independently of each other represent a C-basedMonohydric alcohol residuesof2 toC36 (especially C8 toC24 , especially C12 toC20 and more especiallyC16 toC18 ) hydrocarbons.
根据一个实施方案，R'和R"可均代表氢原子。According to one embodiment, both R' and R" may represent a hydrogen atom.
根据一个实施方案，OR'和OR"可均代表相同或不同的基于烃的一元醇残基。According to one embodiment, OR' and OR" may both represent the same or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues.
作为可适用于本发明的基于烃的一元醇残基OR'和OR"的实例，可提及脂肪醇残基。As examples of hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" which may be suitable for use in the present invention, fatty alcohol residues may be mentioned.
根据一个实施方案，可适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可具有以下通式(I)：According to one embodiment, esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the following general formula (I):
R3-OCO-R1(-COO-R2-OCO-R1)n-COO-R3(I)R3 -OCO-R1 (-COO-R2 -OCO-R1 )n -COO-R3 (I)
其中：in:
-COR1CO代表二聚亚油酸酯残基，-COR1 CO stands for dimerized linoleate residue,
-OR2O代表脂肪醇二聚体残基，其具有16至68个碳原子、24至44个碳原子、尤其32至40个碳原子且更尤其36个碳原子，-OR2 O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue having 16 to 68 carbon atoms, 24 to 44 carbon atoms, especially 32 to 40 carbon atoms and more especially 36 carbon atoms,
-OR3代表一元醇残基，其具有4至40个碳原子、尤其6至36个碳原子、尤其8至32个碳原子、尤其16至28个碳原子且更尤其18至24个碳原子，以及-OR3 represents a monoalcohol residue having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 32 carbon atoms, especially 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more especially 18 to 24 carbon atoms ,as well as
-n是范围从1至15、尤其2至10且更尤其5至7的整数。-n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, especially 2 to 10 and more especially 5 to 7.
根据一个实施方案，OR2O可以代表二聚亚油醇残基(dimer dilinoleylresidue)。According to one embodiment, OR2 O may represent a dimer dilinoleyl residue.
此外，OR3可以代表基于烃的一元醇残基，其例如选自山萮醇残基、异硬脂醇残基和植物甾醇残基、及其混合物。Furthermore, OR3 may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, eg, selected from behenyl alcohol residues, isostearyl alcohol residues and phytosterol residues, and mixtures thereof.
根据另一个实施方案，可适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可特别具有以下通式(II)：According to another embodiment, the esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof which may be suitable for use in the present invention may in particular have the following general formula (II):
其中：in:
-n是范围从1至15、特别2至10且尤其5至7的整数；-n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, especially 2 to 10 and especially 5 to 7;
-OCR'1CO代表二聚亚油酸酯残基，-OCR'1 CO represents a dimerized linoleate residue,
-OR'2O代表以下通式(III)的双甘油残基(diglyceryl residue)：-OR'2 O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III):
其中：in:
R'3代表H或OR'3代表具有8至34个碳原子、特别12至22个碳原子、尤其16至20个碳原子且更尤其18个碳原子的脂肪酸残基。R'3 represents H orOR'3 represents a fatty acid residue having 8 to 34 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially 16 to 20 carbon atoms and more especially 18 carbon atoms.
根据一个实施方案，由OR'3代表的脂肪酸残基可以是异硬脂酸残基(isostearylresidue)。According to one embodiment, the fatty acid residue represented byOR'3 may be an isostearylresidue.
可根据本领域技术人员已知的任何方法、且特别根据下文描述的常规方法来测量二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯的粘度。The viscosity of the esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof can be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the conventional methods described below.
可使用Ares类型的锥/板或平行板粘度计(TA-Instrument)测量粘度，该粘度计在大约1-1000s-1的剪切范围内以动力学扫描(kinetic sweep)模式运行以引起在大约1000Pa下的流动张力。Viscosity can be measured using an Ares type cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1-1000 s-1 to induce a Flow tension at 1000Pa.
锥/板或平行板可由选自不锈钢、丙烯酸系树脂或聚苯硫醚(PPS树脂)的材料构成。The cones/plates or parallel plates may be constructed of materials selected from stainless steel, acrylic resins or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resins).
锥/板直径可以为25mm(锥角0.10弧度(radiants))。The cone/plate diameter can be 25mm (cone angle 0.10 radiants).
在大约25℃下实施测量。Measurements were carried out at approximately 25°C.
在任何测量之前，借助动态扫描周期测试来检查样品的稳定性，该测试使得有可能确定样品本身是否稳定。Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of a dynamic scanning cycle test, which makes it possible to determine whether the sample itself is stable.
根据流动使用平台区中的ETA值来确定剪切粘度。The shear viscosity is determined from the flow using the ETA value in the plateau region.
在600秒的时段内以1.0Hz的频率确定动态扫描周期。The dynamic scan period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.
以范围从1.0s-1至1000s-1且尤其1.0s-1至100s-1的速率实施恒定扫描速率下的测量。Measurements at constant scan rates are carried out at rates ranging from 1.0 s−1 to 1000 s−1 and in particular 1.0 s−1 to 100 s−1 .
适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯的粘度可为范围从大约20000mPa.s至大约150000mPa.s、特别是大约40000mPa.s至大约l00000 mPa.s且尤其大约60000mPa.s至大约80000mPa.s。Esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention may have viscosities ranging from about 20000 mPa.s to about 150000 mPa.s, in particular about 40000 mPa.s to about 100000 mPa.s and especially About 60000mPa.s to about 80000mPa.s.
适用于本发明的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可特别选自具有以下INCI命名的酯：聚甘油-2异硬脂酸酯二聚亚油酸酯共聚物、双(山萮醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)二聚亚油醇二聚亚油酸酯(bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate)、及其混合物。The esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention may in particular be selected from esters having the following INCI designations: polyglycerol-2 isostearate dimerized linoleate copolymer, bis(mountain) bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
可例如以参考名Hailucent ISDA(Kokyu Alcohol)和Plandool-G(Nippon FineChemical Company Ltd)获得此类化合物。Such compounds are available, for example, under the reference names Hailucent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).
适合在本发明中使用的二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯可有利地以足以赋予根据本发明的组合物改进的化妆品性质(特别就平均光泽持久力而言)的量存在于这些组合物中。The esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be present in an amount sufficient to impart improved cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of average gloss staying power, to the compositions according to the present invention. in these compositions.
有利地，相对于本发明组合物的总重量计，选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯的至少一种糊状化合物按以下量存在于该组合物中：范围从5重量％至15重量％，优选6重量％至12重量％，更优选7重量％至10重量％。Advantageously, at least one pasty compound selected from the group consisting of dimerized linoleic acid and esters of polyols or esters thereof is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5 wt. % to 15% by weight, preferably 6% to 12% by weight, more preferably 7% to 10% by weight.
蜡wax
在本发明上下文中考虑的蜡通常是亲脂化合物，其在室温(25℃)下是固体，具有固/液可逆状态变化，其熔点大于或等于30℃，优选大于或等于40℃，熔点可以最高200℃且尤其最高120℃。Waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds which are solid at room temperature (25°C), have a solid/liquid reversible state change, and whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, the melting point can be Up to 200°C and especially up to 120°C.
可使用诸如由TA Instruments公司以名称"DSC Q100"出售的具有软件"TAUniversal Analysis"的量热计之类的差示扫描量热计(DSC)，根据已描述的规程测量熔点。The melting point can be measured according to the described procedure using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC) such as the calorimeter with the software "TAUniversal Analysis" sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments.
第一蜡first wax
根据本发明的第一个方面，固体无水组合物包含至少一种第一蜡，其是衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯。According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one first wax which is a solid linear ester derived from aC6 -C30 fatty acid.
上文提及的脂肪酸的实例(饱和或不饱和的)是辛酸、癸酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、花生酸、山萮酸、木蜡酸和蜡酸。Examples of fatty acids (saturated or unsaturated) mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and ceric acid.
对本发明的目的而言，固体直链酯含有总共25至36个碳原子并具有介于38℃和60℃之间的熔点。优选地，直链酯在其所有质量(mass)在室温下呈固体结晶形式时被称为处于固态。For the purposes of the present invention, solid linear esters contain a total of 25 to 36 carbon atoms and have a melting point between 38°C and 60°C. Preferably, a linear ester is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid crystalline form at room temperature.
适合在本发明中使用的固体直链酯优选选自硬脂酸硬脂酯、十四烷酸十四烷基酯(INCI名称:肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯)、肉豆蔻酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸硬脂酯、棕榈酸肉豆蔻酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸硬脂酯、硬脂酸肉豆蔻酯、硬脂酸鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸硬脂酯、及其混合物。The solid linear esters suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate (INCI name: myristyl myristate), cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate Stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
根据一个优选实施方案，根据本发明的衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的蜡优选是衍生自C10-C22脂肪酸并含有25至36个碳原子的固体直链酯。According to a preferred embodiment, the waxes according to the invention derived from solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids are preferably solid linear esters derived fromC10 -C22 fatty acids and containing 25 to 36 carbon atoms.
更优选地，根据本发明的固体直链酯的蜡是衍生自C12-C20脂肪酸并含有28至36个碳原子的固体直链酯。More preferably, the waxes of the solid linear esters according to the present invention are solid linear esters derived from C12-C20 fatty acids and containing from28 to 36 carbon atoms.
作为最尤其适用于本发明的固体直链酯的蜡的实例，可提及棕榈酸鲸蜡酯，其例如由Suzhou Eleco Chemical Industry公司以名称OLEM CP出售。As an example of a wax of solid linear esters most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of cetyl palmitate, which is sold, for example, by the company Suzhou Eleco Chemical Industry under the name OLEM CP.
在一个优选实施方案中，第一蜡选自棕榈酸肉豆蔻酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸硬脂酯、或其混合物。In a preferred embodiment, the first wax is selected from the group consisting of myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or mixtures thereof.
有利地，相对于根据本发明的组合物的总重量计，至少一种第一蜡按以下量存在于该组合物中：范围为1重量％至15重量％，优选2重量％至8重量％，更优选3重量％至6重量％。Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, at least one first wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight , more preferably 3 wt % to 6 wt %.
第二蜡second wax
根据本发明的第一个方面，固体无水组合物包含至少一种第二蜡，其选自不同于衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的基于烃的蜡。According to a first aspect of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition comprises at least one second wax selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes other than those derived from solid linear esters ofC6 -C30 fatty acids.
可在根据本发明的组合物中使用的第二蜡在室温下可以变形或不可变形，为动物、植物、矿物或合成来源，及其混合物，优选选自动物或植物来源的蜡。The second wax that can be used in the composition according to the invention is deformable or non-deformable at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from waxes of animal or vegetable origin.
特别可使用基于烃的蜡，例如蜂蜡、羊毛脂蜡或中国虫蜡；米糠蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、小烛树蜡、小冠巴西棕蜡、西班牙草蜡(esparto grass wax)、软木纤维蜡、甘蔗蜡、日本蜡和漆树蜡(sumach wax)、向日葵(葵花)籽蜡；褐煤蜡、微晶蜡、石蜡和地蜡；聚乙烯蜡、聚亚甲基蜡(polymethylene waxes)、通过费-托合成获得的蜡和蜡状共聚物，及其酯。In particular hydrocarbon-based waxes can be used, such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, Sugarcane wax, Japanese wax and sumach wax, sunflower (sunflower) seed wax; montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and ozokerite wax; polyethylene wax, polymethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes Synthetically obtained waxes and waxy copolymers, and their esters.
特别可提及向日葵(葵花)籽蜡，例如由Koster Keunen公司以名称SUNFLOWERWAXDOUBLE REFINED出售；小烛树蜡，例如来自MULTICERAS的7820LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLAREAL；或其混合物。Mention may be made in particular of sunflower (sunflower) seed wax, eg sold under the name SUNFLOWERWAXDOUBLE REFINED by the company Koster Keunen; candelilla wax, eg 7820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLAREAL from MULTICERAS; or mixtures thereof.
更优选地，本发明组合物包含选自向日葵(葵花)籽蜡、小烛树蜡或其混合物的至少一种第二蜡。More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second wax selected from the group consisting of sunflower (sunflower) seed wax, candelilla wax or mixtures thereof.
有利地，相对于根据本发明的组合物的总重量计，至少一种第二蜡按以下量存在于该组合物中：范围从5重量％至20重量％，优选7重量％至17重量％，更优选9重量％至15重量％。Advantageously, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, at least one second wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 17% by weight , more preferably from 9% to 15% by weight.
优选地，相对于根据本发明的组合物的总重量计，第一蜡和第二蜡在该组合物中的总量为范围从7重量％至25重量％，优选10重量％至20重量％。Preferably, the total amount of the first wax and the second wax in the composition ranges from 7% to 25% by weight, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention .
优选地，第一蜡和第二蜡以范围从1:5至1:2，优选1:4至1:2的重量比存在于根据本发明的组合物中。Preferably, the first wax and the second wax are present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio ranging from 1 :5 to 1 :2, preferably 1 :4 to 1 :2.
发明人发现，利用第一蜡和第二蜡的组合，本发明组合物在施加到角蛋白材料上时提供良好滑动性。The inventors have found that with the combination of the first wax and the second wax, the compositions of the present invention provide good slip properties when applied to keratinous materials.
附加的油additional oil
根据一个优选实施方案，本发明组合物可进一步包含一种或更多种附加的油。According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more additional oils.
附加的油可以是非挥发性油和/或挥发性油。The additional oils may be fixed oils and/or volatile oils.
术语“挥发性油”表示在室温和大气压下，在与皮肤或嘴唇接触时能够在不到1小时内蒸发的任何非水性介质。更具体地，挥发性油具有介于0.01mg/cm2/min和200mg/cm2/min之间(包括上下限)的蒸发速率。The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating in less than 1 hour on contact with the skin or lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the volatile oil has an evaporation rate between 0.01 mg/cm2 /min and 200 mg/cm2 /min inclusive.
该油可以是硅油、氟油、基于烃的油或其混合物。The oil may be a silicone oil, a fluorine oil, a hydrocarbon based oil or a mixture thereof.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“硅油”表示包含至少一个硅原子且特别是至少一个Si-O基团的油。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si—O group.
术语“氟油”表示包含至少一个氟原子的油。The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
该油可任选包含氧、氮、硫和/或磷原子，例如呈羟基或酸基的形式。The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, eg in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
硅油和氟油可选自极性油、非极性油、或其混合物。The silicone oil and the fluorine oil can be selected from polar oils, non-polar oils, or mixtures thereof.
用作附加的油的“基于烃的油”可以是极性油。The "hydrocarbon-based oil" used as the additional oil may be a polar oil.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“极性油”表示其在25℃下的溶解度参数δa不是0(J/cm3)1/2的油。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter δa at 25°C is not 0 (J/cm3 )1/2 .
根据一个更优选的实施方案，根据本发明的组合物包含附加的油，其选自极性非挥发性基于烃的油。According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional oil selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
根据一个更优选的实施方案，根据本发明的组合物包含附加的油，其选自根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油：According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional oil selected from triglyceride oils according to formula (IV):
CH2(OOCR1)CH(OOCR2)CH2(OOCR3)(IV)CH2 (OOCR1 )CH (OOCR2)CH2 (OOCR3 )(IV)
其中R1、R2和R3独立地选自C6-C30烷基和C6-C30烯基。wherein R1 , R2 and R3 are independently selected from C6 -C30 alkyl and C6 -C30 alkenyl.
根据一个更优选的实施方案，根据本发明的组合物包含以下物质作为附加的油：聚甘油-2与异硬脂酸、2-乙基己酸和/或异壬酸的单酯、二酯或三酯，例如聚甘油-2异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-2异壬酸酯、聚甘油-2二异壬酸酯、聚甘油-2三异壬酸酯、聚甘油-2(2-乙基)己酸酯、聚甘油-2二(2-乙基)己酸酯、聚甘油-2三(2-乙基)己酸酯。According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises as additional oil: monoesters, diesters of polyglycerol-2 with isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid and/or isononanoic acid or triesters such as polyglycerol-2 isostearate, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-2 isononanoate, polyglycerol-2 Diisononanoate, Polyglycerol-2 Triisononanoate, Polyglycerol-2(2-ethyl)hexanoate, Polyglycerol-2 Di(2-ethyl)hexanoate, Polyglycerol-2 Tri (2-ethyl)hexanoate.
在一个特别优选的实施方案中，根据本发明的组合物包含附加的油，其选自根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油；聚甘油-2与异硬脂酸、2-乙基己酸和/或异壬酸的单酯、二酯或三酯；及其混合物：In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional oil selected from the group consisting of triglyceride oils according to formula (IV); polyglycerol-2 with isostearic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid and/or monoesters, diesters or triesters of isononanoic acid; and mixtures thereof:
CH2(OOCR1)CH(OOCR2)CH2(OOCR3)(IV)CH2 (OOCR1 )CH (OOCR2)CH2 (OOCR3 )(IV)
其中R1、R2和R3独立地选自C6-C30烷基和C6-C30烯基。wherein R1 , R2 and R3 are independently selected from C6 -C30 alkyl and C6 -C30 alkenyl.
优选地，在式(IV)中，R1、R2和R3独立地选自C6-C24烷基和C6-C24烯基，优选C6-C20烷基和C6-C20烯基，更优选C6-C14烷基和C6-C14烯基，更优选C6-C12烷基和C6-C12烯基，最优选C6-C10烷基和C6-C10烯基，所述烷基或烯基是直链或支链的。Preferably, in formula (IV), R1 , R2 and R3 are independently selected from C6 -C24 alkyl and C6 -C24 alkenyl, preferably C6 -C20 alkyl and C6 - C20 alkenyl, more preferably C6 -C14 alkyl and C6 -C14 alkenyl, more preferably C6 -C12 alkyl and C6 -C12 alkenyl, most preferably C6 -C10 alkyl and C6 -C10 alkenyl, the alkyl or alkenyl is straight-chain or branched.
在式(IV)中，R1、R2和R3可以不同，或者R1、R2和R3中的两个或全部可以相同。In formula (IV), R1 , R2 and R3 may be different, or two or all of R1 , R2 and R3 may be the same.
在CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook中给出根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油的实例。Examples of triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook.
优选的根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油获得自碳链长度为范围从C6至C24(优选C6至C20，且更优选C6至C18)的直链或支链的饱和或不饱和羧酸和甘油。Preferred triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) are obtained from saturated linear or branched carbon chain lengths ranging fromC6 toC24 (preferablyC6 toC20 , and more preferablyC6 toC18 ) or unsaturated carboxylic acids and glycerol.
更优选地，根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油选自含有6至14个碳原子(更优选6至12个碳原子，尤其6至10个碳原子)的脂肪酸的甘油三酯，例如庚酸、2-乙基己酸、辛酸(octanoicacids)、辛酸(caprylic acid)、癸酸或其混合物的甘油三酯。More preferably, the triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) is selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, especially 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptyl Triglycerides of acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acids, caprylic acid, capric acid or mixtures thereof.
在一个实施方案中，根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油是合成的。In one embodiment, the triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) is synthetic.
在另一个实施方案中，根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油来源于植物。例如，可使用包含根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油的植物油、或者获得自植物油的根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油。In another embodiment, the triglyceride oil according to formula (IV) is of vegetable origin. For example, vegetable oils comprising triglyceride oils according to formula (IV), or triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) obtained from vegetable oils can be used.
尤其优选得自植物的根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油，并且作为根据式(IV)的甘油三酯油的来源的优选材料的具体实例包括花生油、芝麻油、鳄梨油、椰子油、可可脂油、杏仁油、红花油、玉米油、棉籽油、橄榄油、霍霍巴油、棕榈油、大豆油、小麦胚芽油、亚麻籽油和葵花籽油。Triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) derived from plants are particularly preferred, and specific examples of preferred materials as sources of triglyceride oils according to formula (IV) include peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, cocoa Fat oil, almond oil, safflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil and sunflower oil.
可提及芥花油，例如由AARHUSKARL SHAMN公司以商品名LipexPreact出售的那种。Mention may be made of canola oil, such as that sold under the trade name LipexPreact by the company AARHUSKARL SHAMN.
优选地，可提及辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，例如由Stearineries Dubois公司出售的那些或以名称
在一个尤其优选的实施方案中，根据本发明的组合物包含辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、芥花油、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯或其混合物作为附加的油。In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises as additional oil caprylic/capric triglycerides, canola oil, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or mixtures thereof.
当存在时，相对于根据本发明的组合物的总重量计，附加的油按以下量存在于该组合物中：范围从30重量％至70重量％，优选40重量％至65重量％。When present, the additional oil is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably 40% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
有利地，相对于本发明组合物的总重量计，至少一种非极性非挥发性基于烃的油和附加的油在该组合物中的总存在量为范围从50重量％至80重量％，优选60重量％至75重量％。Advantageously, the at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and additional oils are present in the composition in a total amount ranging from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention , preferably 60% to 75% by weight.
着色剂(Dyestuff)Dyestuff
按照本发明的固体无水组合物可任选包含至少一种着色剂，其可选自水溶性或水不溶性的、脂溶性或非脂溶性的有机或无机着色剂、以及具有光学效应的材料、及其混合物。优选地，相对于组合物的总重量计，着色剂的量低于20重量％。The solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one colorant, which may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble organic or inorganic colorants, and materials with optical effects, and its mixtures. Preferably, the amount of colorant is less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“着色剂”表示当其以足量配制在合适的化妆品介质中时能够产生有色光学效应的化合物。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
优选地，根据本发明的组合物包含至少一种着色剂，其选自颜料和/或珍珠母和/或水溶性染料、及其混合物。Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
根据一个优选实施方案，根据本发明的组合物包含至少一种水溶性着色剂。According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble colorant.
根据本发明使用的水溶性着色剂更尤其是水溶性染料。The water-soluble colorants used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
对本发明的目的而言，术语“水溶性染料”意欲表示可溶于水相或水混溶性溶剂并能够着色的任何天然或合成的通常为有机的化合物。尤其，术语“水溶性”意欲表示在25℃下测量的化合物在水中溶解至至少等于0.1g/l的浓度(产生宏观上各向同性的、透明的、有色或无色的溶液)的能力。这种溶解度尤其大于或等于1g/l。For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, usually organic, compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of coloring. In particular, the term "water-solubility" is intended to denote the ability of a compound to dissolve in water to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (resulting in a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution), measured at 25°C. This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.
作为适合在本发明中使用的水溶性染料，可尤其提及合成或天然的水溶性染料，例如FDC红4(CI:14700)、DC红6(立索尔宝红Na；CI:15850)、DC红22(CI:45380)、DC红28(CI:45410Na盐)、DC红30(CI:73360)、DC红33(CI:17200)、DC橙4(CI:15510)、FDC黄5(CI:19140)、FDC黄6(CI:15985)、DC黄8(CI:45350Na盐)、FDC绿3(CI:42053)、DC绿5(CI:61570)、FDC蓝1(CI:42090)。As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may especially be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Rissole Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 ( CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) .
作为可在本发明的上下文中使用的水溶性着色剂的来源的非限制性例示，可特别提及天然来源的那些，例如以下物质的提取物：胭脂虫、甜菜根、葡萄、胡萝卜、番茄、胭脂树、红辣椒、指甲花、焦糖和姜黄素。As non-limiting examples of sources of water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, Annatto, Paprika, Henna, Caramel and Curcumin.
因此，适合在本发明中使用的水溶性着色剂特别是胭脂红酸、甜菜苷、花色素、花色素苷(enocyanins)、番茄红素、β-胡萝卜素、胭脂树素、降胭脂树素、辣椒红素(capsanthin)、辣椒玉红素(capsorubin)、毛莨黄素、叶黄素、隐黄素、玉红黄质、堇菜黄质、核黄素、紫杉红素、鸡油菌素(cantaxanthin)和叶绿素、及其混合物。Thus, water-soluble colorants suitable for use in the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betaine, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, beta-carotene, nopaline, norpoxin, Capsanthin, capsorubin, butteraxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubaxanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, taxane, chanterelle cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
它们还可以是硫酸铜、硫酸铁、水溶性磺基聚酯、若丹明、甜菜碱、亚甲基蓝、酒石黄的二钠盐和品红的二钠盐。They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salt of tartrazine and disodium salt of fuchsin.
这些水溶性着色剂中的一些尤其允许用于食品用途。可提及的这些染料的代表更尤其包括以食品代码E120、E162、E163、E160a-g、E150a、E101、E100、E140和E141指代的类胡萝卜素家族的染料。Some of these water-soluble colorants are particularly acceptable for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned include more particularly the dyes of the carotenoid family designated by the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
根据一个优选的变体，将待转移到意欲化妆的皮肤和/或嘴唇上的水溶性着色剂配制在生理学上可接受的介质中，以便适合浸渍到基底中。According to a preferred variant, the water-soluble colorant to be transferred onto the skin and/or lips to be made-up is formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to be suitable for impregnation into the substrate.
相对于根据本发明的组合物的总重量计，水溶性着色剂可按范围从1重量％至15重量％且优选2重量％至10重量％的含量存在于该组合物中。The water-soluble colorant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight and preferably 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
根据另一个实施方案，根据本发明的组合物可包含至少一种颜料和/或珍珠母作为着色剂。According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment and/or nacre as colorant.
术语“颜料”应理解为表示不溶于液体有机相并意欲将组合物和/或用组合物产生的沉积物着色和/或乳浊化的白色或有色的无机(矿物)或有机颗粒。The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or coloured inorganic (mineral) or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid organic phase and intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposits produced with the composition.
颜料可选自无机颜料、有机颜料和复合颜料(即，基于无机材料和/或有机材料的颜料)。Pigments may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (ie pigments based on inorganic and/or organic materials).
颜料可选自单色颜料、色淀、珍珠母和具有光学效应的颜料(例如反射性颜料和随角异色颜料)。Pigments may be selected from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres and pigments with optical effects (eg reflective pigments and flop pigments).
无机颜料可选自金属氧化物颜料、氧化铬、氧化铁、二氧化钛、氧化锌、氧化铈、氧化锆、锰紫、普鲁士蓝、群青蓝和铁蓝、及其混合物。The inorganic pigment may be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxide, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and iron blue, and mixtures thereof.
有机颜料可以是例如：Organic pigments can be, for example:
-胭脂虫红，- cochineal,
-以下的有机颜料：偶氮染料、蒽醌染料、靛类染料、呫吨染料、芘染料、喹啉染料、三苯甲烷染料和荧烷染料，- the following organic pigments: azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluoran dyes,
-有机色淀或诸如偶氮、蒽醌、靛类、呫吨、芘、喹啉、三苯甲烷或荧烷染料之类的酸性染料的不可溶的钠、钾、钙、钡、铝、锆、锶或钛盐。这些染料通常包含至少一个羧酸或磺酸基团；- Insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium of organic lakes or acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes , strontium or titanium salts. These dyes generally contain at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group;
-基于黑色素的颜料。- Pigments based on melanin.
在有机颜料之中，可提及D&C蓝4号、D&C棕1号、D&C绿5号、D&C绿6号、D&C橙4号、D&C橙5号、D&C橙10号、D&C橙11号、D&C红6号、D&C红7号、D&C红17号、D&C红21号、D&C红22号、D&C红27号、D&C红28号、D&C红30号、D&C红31号、D&C红33号、D&C红34号、D&C红36号、D&C紫2号、D&C黄7号、D&C黄8号、D&C黄10号、D&C黄11号、FD&C蓝1号、FD&C绿3号、FD&C红40号、FD&C黄5号和FD&C黄6号。Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Orange No. Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
对本专利申请的目的而言，术语“珍珠母”意欲表示任何形式的有色颗粒，其可以是或可以不是虹彩的，尤其由某些软体动物在它们的壳中产生，或者是合成的，并且其经由光学干涉而具有颜色效应。For the purposes of this patent application, the term "nacre" is intended to denote any form of coloured particles, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain mollusks in their shells, or which are synthetic and which Has color effects via optical interference.
可提及的珍珠母的实例包括珠光颜料，例如经氧化铁涂布的钛云母、经氯氧化铋涂布的云母、经氧化铬涂布的钛云母、经有机染料(尤其上文提及类型的有机染料)涂布的钛云母、以及还有基于氯氧化铋的珠光颜料。它们还可以是在其表面上叠加了金属氧化物和/或有机着色剂的至少两个相继层的云母颗粒。Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments, such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, chromium oxide-coated titanium mica, organic dyes (especially of the types mentioned above) organic dyes) coated titanium mica, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles on their surface superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants.
珍珠母更尤其可具有黄色、粉色、红色、青铜色、橙色、棕色、金色和/或铜色颜色或色调。Mother-of-pearl may more particularly have yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper colors or shades.
作为可作为干涉颜料引入组合物中的珍珠母的例示，可提及尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Brilliant gold 212G(Timica)、Gold 222C(Cloisonne)、Sparkle gold(Timica)、Gold 4504(Chromalite)和Monarch gold 233X(Cloisonne)出售的金色珍珠母；尤其由Merck公司以名称Bronze fine(17384)(Colorona)和Bronze(17353)(Colorona)出售的青铜色珍珠母和由Engelhard公司以名称Super bronze(Cloisonne)出售的青铜色珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Orange 363C(Cloisonne)和Orange MCR 101(Cosmica)出售的橙色珍珠母以及由Merck公司以名称Passion orange(Colorona)和Matte orange(17449)(Microna)出售的橙色珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Nu-antique copper340XB(Cloisonne)和Brown CL4509(Chromalite)出售的棕色珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Copper 340A(Timica)出售的具有铜色色调的珍珠母；尤其由Merck公司以名称Sienna fine(17386)(Colorona)出售的具有红色色调的珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Yellow(4502)(Chromalite)出售的具有黄色色调的珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Sunstone G012(Gemtone)出售的具有金色色调的红色珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Tan opale G005(Gemtone)出售的粉色珍珠母；尤其由Engelhard公司以名称Nuantique bronze 240AB(Timica)出售的具有金色色调的黑色珍珠母；尤其由Merck公司以名称Matte blue(17433)(Microna)出售的蓝色珍珠母；尤其由Merck公司以名称XironaSilver出售的具有银色色调的白色珍珠母；以及尤其由Merck公司以名称Indian summer(Xirona)出售的金绿粉橙色珍珠母；及其混合物。As examples of nacres which can be introduced into the composition as interference pigments, mention may be made of the products especially produced by the company Engelhard under the names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold mother-of-pearl sold in gold 233X (Cloisonne); especially bronze mother-of-pearl sold under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by the company Merck and Super bronze (Cloisonne) by the company Engelhard Bronze mother-of-pearl sold; especially orange mother-of-pearl sold under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by the company Engelhard and Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) by the company Merck Orange mother-of-pearl sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); especially pearls with copper tints sold under the name Copper 340A (Timica) by the company Engelhard Mother-of-pearl with a red hue sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow hue sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); especially by Engelhard Red mother-of-pearl with a golden hue sold by the company Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); especially sold under the name Nuantique bronze 240AB (Timica) by the company Engelhard Black mother-of-pearl with golden shades; blue mother-of-pearl sold especially under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by the company Merck; white mother-of-pearl with silver shades sold especially by the company Merck under the name XironaSilver; and especially by Merck Gold-green-pink-orange mother-of-pearl sold by the company under the name Indian summer (Xirona); and mixtures thereof.
添加剂additive
在一个特别实施方案中，根据本发明的固体无水组合物可进一步包含至少一种在所考虑的领域中经常使用的添加剂。尤其，该添加剂选自树胶、阴离子表面活性剂、阳离子表面活性剂、两性表面活性剂或非离子表面活性剂、硅酮表面活性剂、树脂、增稠剂、分散剂、抗氧化剂、防腐剂、香料、中和剂、抗菌剂、附加的化妆品活性剂例如维生素、保湿剂、润肤剂或胶原保护剂、及其混合物。In a particular embodiment, the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive commonly used in the field under consideration. In particular, the additive is selected from the group consisting of gums, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives, Fragrances, neutralizers, antibacterial agents, additional cosmetic actives such as vitamins, humectants, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.
对本领域技术人员而言，调节按照本发明的组合物中存在的添加剂的性质和量以致根据本发明使用的组合物的有利性质不受或基本上不受所设想的添加的不利影响是常规操作事项。It is routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention so that the advantageous properties of the compositions used according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additions matter.
根据一个优选实施方案，本发明提供固体无水组合物，相对于组合物的总重量计，其包含：According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a)10重量％至15重量％的角鲨烷，a) 10% to 15% by weight of squalane,
b)7重量％至10重量％的双(山萮醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)二聚亚油醇二聚亚油酸酯，b) 7% to 10% by weight of bis(behenyl alcohol/isostearyl alcohol/phytosterol) dimerized linoleate,
c)3重量％至6重量％的第一蜡，其选自棕榈酸肉豆蔻酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸硬脂酯或其混合物，和c) 3% to 6% by weight of a first wax selected from the group consisting of myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate or mixtures thereof, and
d)9重量％至15重量％的第二蜡，其选自向日葵(葵花)籽蜡、小烛树蜡或其混合物。d) 9% to 15% by weight of a second wax selected from sunflower (sunflower) seed wax, candelilla wax or mixtures thereof.
根据一个优选实施方案，本发明提供固体无水组合物，相对于组合物的总重量计，其包含：According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a)10重量％至15重量％的角鲨烷，a) 10% to 15% by weight of squalane,
b)7重量％至10重量％的双(山萮醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)二聚亚油醇二聚亚油酸酯，b) 7% to 10% by weight of bis(behenyl alcohol/isostearyl alcohol/phytosterol) dimerized linoleate,
c)3重量％至6重量％的第一蜡，其选自棕榈酸肉豆蔻酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸硬脂酯或其混合物，c) 3% to 6% by weight of a first wax selected from the group consisting of myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate or mixtures thereof,
d)9重量％至15重量％的第二蜡，其选自向日葵(葵花)籽蜡、小烛树蜡或其混合物，和d) 9% to 15% by weight of a second wax selected from the group consisting of sunflower (sunflower) seed wax, candelilla wax or mixtures thereof, and
e)40重量％至65重量％的附加的油，其选自辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、芥花油、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯或其混合物。e) 40% to 65% by weight of additional oil selected from caprylic/capric triglycerides, canola oil, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or mixtures thereof.
在一个更优选的实施方案中，本发明提供固体无水组合物，相对于组合物的总重量计，其包含：In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising:
a)10重量％至15重量％的角鲨烷，a) 10% to 15% by weight of squalane,
b)7重量％至10重量％的双(山萮醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇)二聚亚油醇二聚亚油酸酯，b) 7% to 10% by weight of bis(behenyl alcohol/isostearyl alcohol/phytosterol) dimerized linoleate,
c)3重量％至6重量％的第一蜡，其选自棕榈酸肉豆蔻酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸硬脂酯或其混合物，c) 3% to 6% by weight of a first wax selected from the group consisting of myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate or mixtures thereof,
d)9重量％至15重量％的第二蜡，其选自向日葵(葵花)籽蜡、小烛树蜡或其混合物，d) 9% to 15% by weight of a second wax selected from the group consisting of sunflower (sunflower) seed wax, candelilla wax or mixtures thereof,
e)40重量％至65重量％的附加的油，其选自辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、芥花油、聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯或其混合物，和e) 40% to 65% by weight of an additional oil selected from caprylic/capric triglycerides, canola oil, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or mixtures thereof, and
f)至少一种着色剂，其选自颜料和/或珍珠母和/或水溶性染料及其混合物。f) at least one colorant selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.
发明人发现，根据以上优选实施方案的固体无水组合物展示出所需的硬度、稳定性以及良好施加性质(例如滑动性)的最优组合，并在角蛋白材料上留下具有良好光泽度的沉积物。The inventors have found that solid anhydrous compositions according to the above preferred embodiments exhibit the desired optimum combination of hardness, stability and good application properties (eg slip) and leave a good gloss on keratinous materials of sediments.
盖仑形式Galen form
本发明组合物适合用作皮肤护理、化妆或美容处理产品。更尤其，本发明组合物呈化妆产品形式，例如唇膏等。The compositions of the present invention are suitable for use as skin care, cosmetic or cosmetic treatment products. More particularly, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of cosmetic products, such as lipsticks and the like.
可按常规方式制备根据本发明的组合物。The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.
根据第二个方面，本发明提供用于护理/化妆角蛋白材料的美容方法，其包括将如上所描述的固体无水组合物施加于角蛋白材料。According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for caring for/makeup of keratinous material, comprising applying to the keratinous material a solid anhydrous composition as described above.
下列实施例作为本发明的非限制性例示给出。The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the invention.
实施例Example
实施例1:唇膏的配制Embodiment 1: the preparation of lipstick
制备根据本发明的唇膏(Inv.)1-2和对比唇膏(comp.)1-3(除非另外指明，否则含量以活性材料的重量百分比表示)：Lipsticks (Inv.) 1-2 according to the invention and Comparative Lipsticks (comp.) 1-3 were prepared (contents are expressed as weight percent active material unless otherwise specified):
对比唇膏1中不存在非极性非挥发性基于烃的油，其在本发明的范围之外。The non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil was not present in Comparative Lipstick 1, which is outside the scope of the present invention.
对比唇膏2中不存在选自衍生自C6-C30脂肪酸的固体直链酯的蜡，其在本发明的范围之外。The absence of waxes selected from solid linear esters derived fromC6 -C30 fatty acids in Comparative Lipstick 2 is outside the scope of the present invention.
对比唇膏3中不存在选自二聚亚油酸和多元醇的酯或其酯的糊状化合物，其在本发明的范围之外。The absence of pasty compounds selected from esters of dimerized linoleic acid and polyols or esters thereof in Comparative Lipstick 3 is outside the scope of the present invention.
制备规程Preparation procedure
遵循以下步骤制备唇膏：Follow these steps to prepare a lip balm:
i)在95℃下混合所有成分，通过IKA Blender Euro–ST P CV S25型号以300r/min搅拌混合物直至均匀；i) Mix all ingredients at 95°C, stirring the mixture by IKA Blender Euro-ST P CV S25 model at 300 r/min until homogeneous;
ii)将均化的混合物倾入预热到42±2℃的唇膏模具中，使混合物留置在25℃下的模具中直至固化；ii) Pour the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42±2°C, leaving the mixture in the mold at 25°C until cured;
iii)将固体混合物从冷却到大约4℃的唇膏模具中脱模。iii) Release the solid mixture from the lipstick mold cooled to about 4°C.
实施例2:唇膏的评估Example 2: Evaluation of Lipstick
对唇膏的剪切值、硬度和稳定性，以及诸如滑动性和施加后的沉积物的光泽度之类的使用效果实施评估。The lipsticks were evaluated for shear value, hardness and stability, as well as in-use effects such as glide and gloss of the deposited deposit after application.
根据先前描述的规程来评估剪切值和硬度。Shear value and hardness were evaluated according to previously described procedures.
由5名专家通过下列步骤评估稳定性：Stability was assessed by 5 experts through the following steps:
将唇膏放置在20℃、37℃和45℃的烘箱中；和placing the lipstick in an oven at 20°C, 37°C and 45°C; and
在2个月之后检查唇膏的外观。Check the appearance of the lipstick after 2 months.
由5名专家如下评估滑动性：使用相同力在上唇向两侧缓慢施加唇膏两次并在下唇施加唇膏两次，同时在第二次施加期间仔细感受唇膏与嘴唇皮肤之间的力。摩擦力越弱，滑动性越高。Glide was assessed by 5 experts as follows: the lipstick was applied slowly to both sides on the upper lip twice and the lower lip twice using the same force, while carefully feeling the force between the lipstick and the lip skin during the second application. The weaker the friction, the higher the sliding.
使用滑动性来评估唇膏在嘴唇上的施加期间是否可容易且平顺地滑动。Glide was used to assess whether the lipstick glides easily and smoothly during application on the lips.
由5名专家通过使用相同力在上唇向两侧施加唇膏两次并在下唇施加唇膏两次来评估光泽度。Gloss was assessed by 5 experts by applying the lipstick twice to the sides on the upper lip and twice on the lower lip using the same force.
在施加之后，嘴唇不动3分钟，且然后评估以下属性。After application, the lips were left motionless for 3 minutes, and the following properties were then evaluated.
通过使用镜子来评估视觉属性，以便检查下唇的中部在标准光下的光反射度或亮度。Visual properties were assessed by using a mirror in order to examine the light reflectance or brightness of the middle part of the lower lip under standard light.
最后，由专家给出对稳定性、滑动性和光泽度的评价或评分。Finally, a rating or score for stability, slip and gloss is given by an expert.
5:非常好；5: very good;
4:基本上良好；4: basically good;
3:可接受；3: acceptable;
2:略微差和不可接受；2: slightly poor and unacceptable;
1:差，不可接受。1: Poor, unacceptable.
各唇膏的评估结果总结在下表中。The evaluation results for each lipstick are summarized in the table below.
*基于11.5mm的唇膏直径L计算*Based on lipstick diameter L of 11.5mm
观察到，Inv.1和Inv.2的唇膏稳定并具有所需的剪切值和硬度、良好的稳定性和使用效果(例如滑动性)，并在角蛋白材料上留下有光泽的沉积物。It was observed that the lipsticks of Inv. 1 and Inv. 2 were stable and had the desired shear value and hardness, good stability and in-use effects (e.g. slip), and left glossy deposits on keratin materials .
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| FR3148368A1 (en)* | 2023-05-05 | 2024-11-08 | L'oreal | SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING NATURAL COLORANTS AND MAKE-UP PROCESS USING IT |
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