Warp knit shapes entirely without latasuture T-shirt and method for weaving thereofTechnical field
The present invention relates to a kind of warp-knitted fabric and weaving method thereof, especially a kind of warp knit entirely shape without latasuture T-shirt andIts method for weaving, belongs to textile technology field.
Background technology
Warp knit entirely shapes and refers to produce on the two-needle bar Jacquard raschel machine that plane No. is E24 without latasuture short-sleeve T-shirtEntirely shape the once-forming jacquard weave clothing sewed without any cutting without latasuture.The generally production of T-shirt is to use weft knitting method,Braiding weft knitting grey cloth on machine, after the sizing of lower engine dyeing color, then is processed into T-shirt product through multiple working procedures such as pattern cutting sewing.WarpVolume method is conventionally used for producing the clothing component series products such as openwork jacquard panty hose, vest, glove, and the machine last time can weave simultaneouslyA plurality of full formed product, need not rear road cutting sewing operation.
It is the clothing of the special compact structure being different from conventional mesh class warp knit seamless product that warp knit shapes entirely without latasuture T-shirtClass full-fashioned fabrics, it all has a special requirement to T-shirt pattern construction and fabric tissue, Conventional cut class T-shirt style and oftenRule warp knit seamless mesh class jacquard fabric produces the forming technology and raw material used, and all can not meet wanting of this type of purposes fabricAsking, conventional warp knit seamless fabric is because tissue is single, needle gage is uneven or irregular tissue causes side to have significantly to connect edge trackingMark, has notable harmful effect to product appearance.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, it is provided that a kind of warp knit entirely shape without latasuture T-shirt andIts method for weaving, uses the tubular construction of single piece type even shoulder sleeve style entirely to shape short-sleeve T-shirt, without cutting sewing operation, lossLow, produce efficient, cost-effective.
The technical scheme provided according to the present invention, a kind of warp knit shapes without latasuture T-shirt entirely, including neck portion, shoulder, even shoulder sleevePortion, bodice portion, latasuture portion and lower hem, T-shirt is made up of front and back's two panels；Feature is: before and after both sides, described neck portion between sheet byThe thick stitching of shoulder organizes the formation of shoulder connection, and even the cuff area in shoulder sleeve portion uses thickness tissue, even the shirt-circuited end in shoulder sleeve portionSewed up by thickness between sheet before and after edge and sleeve lower edge and organize the formation of the connection of sleeve portion；By even limit group between sheet before and after described bodice portionKnitting formation latasuture, latasuture portion uses the thickness tissue of the cross tissue that continues in all directions；The main body of described lower hem uses thickness groupKnitting, the lower edge of lower hem uses chorista and thick stitching to organize the formation of bottom suturing part；Described neck portion uses thickness tissue；DescribedEven shoulder sleeve portion subject organization is organized identical with bodice portion, is organized as with thickness main, intersperses mesh tissue in thickness tissue.
Further, described thickness tissue is combined by thickness tissue and thin tissue.
Further, the described cross tissue that continues in all directions includes thick tissue and the thin tissue of some cycle arrangement, thick groupKnit and be uniformly distributed in cross.
Further, described T-shirt is single piece type even shoulder sleeve tubular construction.
Described warp knit shapes the method for weaving without latasuture T-shirt entirely, produces, double rib warp loom bag on double rib warp loomInclude front needle-bar and rear needle-bar, front and back comb at the bottom of each 1 the full plane No. of needle-bar and by 2 half plane No. jacquard comb groups doing pad yarn motion in the same directionThe full plane No. sley bar of 1 become, be respectively arranged in order is positioned at the sley bar GB1 of front needle-bar, sley bar JB2.1, sley bar JB2.2 and positionIn sley bar JB3.1, sley bar JB3.2, the sley bar GB4 of rear needle-bar, the sley point on sley bar JB2.1 and sley bar JB2.2 is staggered,Sley point on sley bar JB3.1 and sley bar JB3.2 is staggered, and sley bar JB2.1 and JB3.1 compiles in the even number stringer of needle-barKnitting, JB2.2 and JB3.2 weaves in odd number stringer, and sley bar GB1, GB4 weave pillar stitch；It is characterized in that, concrete weaving squareMethod is:
(1) during braiding, being designed according to Jacquard plan of weave, front and back needle-bar is all with two lines in a braiding stringerCircle is the elementary cell of a definition color block；According to the braiding organizational structure corresponding to colouring information of Jacquard plan of weave definition,Determining the motion of pad yarn and the skew situation of sley bar, sley bar repeats to pad yarn tissue respectively and is woven to neck portion by lower hem；
(2) braiding in neck portion: the thick tissue of neck portion main body all uses red tissue according to plan of weave；Segmentation mark tissue is according to meaningThe cycling element that craftsman schemes to use white tissue and red tissue to form is circulated braiding or uses white tissue and green tissue to formCycling element is circulated braiding；White tissue and the ratio of red tissue in the cycling element that each white tissue and red tissue formFor 1:1, in the cycling element that each white tissue and green tissue form, the ratio of white tissue and red tissue is 1:1；
(3) braiding of shoulder: shoulder is formed with thick tissue of sewing up by splitting mark tissue, and segmentation mark tissue is identical with neck portion,Thick tissue of sewing up all uses Huang tissue；
(4) braiding in sleeve portion is even takeed on: even shoulder sleeve portion is by even shoulder sleeve subject organization, the thickness tissue of cuff and cuff edge and the sleeve endThick tissue composition of sewing up, even shoulder sleeve subject organization is organized as main body with red, is aided with green tissue, intersperses white tissue；The thickness of cuffThin tissue uses the red tissue of bias type arrangement and the cycling element of green tissue composition to be circulated braiding, at each red tissue andIn the cycling element of green tissue composition, the ratio of red tissue and green tissue is 7:2；Described cuff edge and the thick stitching group at the sleeve endKnit and all use Huang tissue；
(5) braiding in bodice portion: bodice portion is made up of bodice subject organization, identical with even shoulder sleeve subject organization；
(6) braiding in latasuture portion: latasuture portion is made up of the cross tissue that continues in all directions, if this cross tissue that continues in all directions includesThe red tissue of dry circulation and green tissue, red tissue is cross distribution；
When latasuture portion is the cross red tissue continued in all directions in tissue at the stringer that front and rear panel connects, even Selvage Stitch uses Fructus Citri tangerinaeTissue；When latasuture portion is the cross green tissue continued in all directions in tissue at the stringer that front and rear panel connects, even Selvage Stitch usesPurple tissue；
(7) braiding of lower hem: lower hem is sewed up tissue and segmentation mark by the thickness tissue of bottom main body, the thick of bottom bottomTissue composition, thickness tissue use red tissue and green tissue composition cycling element be circulated braiding, each red tissue withIn the cycling element of green tissue composition, the ratio of red tissue and green tissue is 3:1；The thick of described bottom bottom is sewed up tissue and dividesCut the braiding structure that mark tissue is identical with the segmentation mark tissue of shoulder and thick stitching tissue employing.
Further, described sley bar GB1, GB4 weave pillar stitch, and GB1 pad yarn number is 1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1, GB4Pad yarn number is 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0.
Further, it is 1-0-1-1/1-that described thin tissue is defined as green tissue, sley bar JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number2-1-1//, JB3.1 and JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//；
Described mesh organization definition is white tissue, JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 2-1-1-1/1-2-1-1//, JB3.1 andJB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-0-1/1-1-1-0//；
Described thick organization definition is red tissue, JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1//, JB3.1 andJB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-2-3/1-1-1-0//；
Described thick organization definition of sewing up be yellow organizing, JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-2/2-3-1-1//, JB3.1With JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-2-2-3/1-1-1-0//；
Described thin even Selvage Stitch is defined as purple tissue, connect on the right side of anter limit JB2.2 pad yarn number be 0-0-0-1/0-1-0-0//,Connect on the left of rear panel limit JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-1/1-1-1-0//；
Described thick even Selvage Stitch is defined as Fructus Citri tangerinae tissue, connects limit and complete with JB2.2 and JB3.2 on the right side of anter, JB2.2 pad yarn numberCode for 0-0-0-1/1-2-0-0//and JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-1-2/0-1-0-0//；Connect on the left of rear panel limit by JB2.1 andJB3.1 has coordinated, and JB2.1 pad yarn number is 1-0-1-1/2-2-2-1//and JB3.1 pad yarn number is 2-1-2-2/2-2-1-0//。
Further, described sley bar GB1, JB2.1 and sley bar JB2.2 weave at front needle-bar, sley bar JB3.1, sley barJB3.2, sley bar GB4 weave at rear needle-bar, and wherein the part knitting needle of sley bar JB2.2 and sley bar JB3.1 both entered at front needle-barRow braiding weaves at rear needle-bar again.
Further, described sley bar GB1, GB4 the most completely wear 75D/48f cation FDY, sley bar JB2.1, JB2.2,JB3.1 and JB3.2 the most completely wears 150D/72f cation polyester DTY.
Further, in step (2), the cycling element linearly type arrangement of described white tissue and red tissue composition, white groupKnit the cycling element linearly type arrangement with green tissue composition.
The invention have the advantages that the tubular construction of (1) single piece type even shoulder sleeve style shapes short-sleeve T-shirt entirely without cuttingSewing operation, be lost low, produce efficient, cost-effective；(2) warp JIA card jacquard weave comb and end comb both weave, jacquard comb jacquard weaveChanges in microstructure is enriched, and fabric construction is abundant, dimensionally stable；(3) use the plan of weave representation of definition color, simplifyThe technique manufacturing process of warp knit seamless garments, simple, intuitive is easy to learn；(4) by definition cross color lump Weaving Cycle pattern, realNow entirely shape T-shirt braiding without latasuture, it is to avoid single color lump or the problem of free color lump combination generation latasuture vestige.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the side schematic view of guide bar of warp knitting machine used herein.
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that warp knit of the present invention shapes entirely without latasuture T-shirt.
Fig. 3 is the plan of weave of the cross tissue that continues in all directions of the present invention.
Fig. 3 laterally represents the knitting needle number of machine, longitudinally represents that stringer, a definition color block represent a braiding stringerIn two coils.
Fig. 4 is the plan of weave of the segmentation mark tissue of the red tissue of 1:1 of the present invention and white tissue.
Fig. 5 is the plan of weave of the segmentation mark tissue of the green tissue of 1:1 of the present invention and white tissue.
Fig. 6 is the plan of weave of the red green cuff thickness tissue of 7:2 of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is the plan of weave of the red green bottom thickness tissue of 3:1 of the present invention.
Wherein, triangle represents red tissue, and circle represents green tissue, and blank representative is organized in vain.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with concrete accompanying drawing, the invention will be further described.
As in figure 2 it is shown, warp knit of the present invention shapes entirely without latasuture T-shirt, for cotta single piece type even shoulder sleeve structure, T-shirt is bigBody main body and sleeve are single piece type tubular construction, and without any cutting sewing cut-off rule, shoulder gradient is consistent with shoulders of human body, sleeveSub-gradient is consistent with human arm regular motion demand.
As in figure 2 it is shown, warp knit of the present invention entirely shape without latasuture short-sleeve T-shirt include neck portion a, shoulder b, even shoulder sleeve portion c,Bodice portion d, latasuture portion e and lower hem f, T-shirt is made up of front and back's two panels；By shoulder b's between sheet before and after a both sides, described neck portionThick stitching organizes the formation of shoulder connection g1, and even the cuff area of shoulder sleeve portion c uses thickness tissue, even the cuff edge of shoulder sleeve portion cAnd organized the formation of sleeve portion connection g2 by thickness stitching between sheet before and after sleeve lower edge；By even limit between sheet before and after described bodice portion dOrganize the formation of latasuture g3, latasuture portion e and use the thickness tissue of the cross tissue that continues in all directions；The main body of described lower hem f usesThickness tissue, the lower edge of lower hem f uses chorista and thick stitching to organize the formation of bottom suturing part g4.Described neck portion a usesThick tissue；Described even shoulder sleeve portion c subject organization is organized identical with bodice portion d, is organized as leading with thickness, mesh tissue intersperse intoAuxiliary, can free layout.Above-mentioned thickness tissue is combined according to design by thickness tissue and thin tissue.
It is E24(per inch 24 pin that warp knit of the present invention shapes without latasuture T-shirt entirely in plane No.) two-needle bar Jacquard La SheerProducing on tricot machine, type is RDPJ4/2, and two-needle bar Jacquard raschel machine includes front needle-bar and rear needle-bar, needle-bar front and backEach 2 sley bars, totally 4 sley bars of being equipped with, wherein comb at the bottom of 1 full plane No., 1 done by two and to pad the half plane No. Jacquards that yarn moves in the same directionThe full plane No. Jacquard sley bar of sley bar composition, as it is shown in figure 1, be respectively arranged in order is positioned at the sley bar GB1 of front needle-bar, sley barJB2.1, sley bar JB2.2 and be positioned at the sley bar JB3.1 of rear needle-bar, sley bar JB3.2, sley bar GB4, sley bar JB2.1 and sley bar JB2.2On sley point be staggered, the sley point on sley bar JB3.1 and sley bar JB3.2 is staggered, and sley bar JB2.1 and JB3.1 existsThe even number stringer of needle-bar weaves, JB2.2 and JB3.2 weaves in odd number stringer；Sley bar GB1, GB4 weave pillar stitch(GB1 pad yarn number be 1-0-0-0/0-1-1-1, GB4 pad yarn number be 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0), sley bar GB1, JB2.1 and combComb JB2.2 weaves at front needle-bar, and sley bar JB3.1, sley bar JB3.2, sley bar GB4 weave at rear needle-bar, wherein sley barThe part knitting needle of JB2.2 and sley bar JB3.1 not only had carried out weaving but also weaving at rear needle-bar at front needle-bar.In the embodiment of the present inventionMiddle employing Jacquard plan of weave carries out technological design, and thin tissue represents by green in warp knitting technology software, mesh tissue whiteRepresenting, thick tissue redness represents, thick tissue yellow of sewing up represents, thin even Selvage Stitch purple represents, thick even Selvage Stitch is usedOrange represents.
For the ease of describing, in embodiments of the present invention by as follows for the braiding organization definition of jacquard comb: thin tissue is in warp knitProcess software represents by green, be defined as green tissue (JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//,JB3.1 and JB3.2 pad yarn number is 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0/ /), mesh tissue white represents, is defined as white tissue(JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 2-1-1-1/1-2-1-1//, JB3.1 and JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-0-1/1-1-1-0/ /), thick tissue redness represents, be defined as red tissue (JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1//,JB3.1 and JB3.2 pad yarn number is 1-1-2-3/1-1-1-0/ /), thick tissue yellow of sewing up represents, is defined as yellow tissue(JB2.1 and JB2.2 pad yarn number be 1-0-1-2/2-3-1-1//, JB3.1 and JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-2-2-3/1-1-1-0/ /), thin even Selvage Stitch purple represents, (connecting limit JB2.2 pad yarn number on the right side of anter is 0-0-0-1/0-to be defined as purple tissue1-0-0//, to connect limit JB3.2 pad yarn number on the left of rear panel be 1-0-1-1/1-1-1-0/ /), thick even Selvage Stitch orange represents, fixedFor Fructus Citri tangerinae tissue, (connecting limit on the right side of anter to complete with JB2.2 and JB3.2, JB2.2 pad yarn number is 0-0-0-1/1-2-0-to justice0//and JB3.2 pad yarn number be 1-1-1-2/0-1-0-0//；Connect limit on the left of rear panel to complete with JB2.1 and JB3.1,JB2.1 pad yarn number is 1-0-1-1/2-2-2-1//and JB3.1 pad yarn number is 2-1-2-2/2-2-1-0/ /).Described sley barGB1, GB4 the most completely wear 75D/48f cation FDY, and sley bar JB2.1, JB2.2, JB3.1 and JB3.2 the most completely wear 150D/72fCation polyester DTY.
Being woven to a direction, neck portion by lower hem f during braiding, concrete braiding process is:
(1) during braiding, being designed according to Jacquard plan of weave, front and back needle-bar is all with two lines in a braiding stringerCircle is the elementary cell (as shown in Figure 3) of a definition color block；According to the braiding tissue that concrete definition colouring information is correspondingStructure, determines the motion of pad yarn and the skew situation of sley bar, and sley bar repeats to pad yarn tissue respectively and woven to neck portion a by lower hem f；
(2) braiding of neck portion a: neck portion a is by leading the segmentation mark tissue at edge, portion and the thick of neck portion main body to form, and thickness is organizedRed tissue is all used according to plan of weave；Segmentation mark tissue uses the white tissue of linear pattern and red tissue according to plan of weaveThe cycling element of composition is circulated braiding (as shown in Figure 4) or the white tissue using linear pattern and green tissue compositionCycling element be circulated braiding (as shown in Figure 5)；The cycling element that each white tissue and red tissue form is organized in vainIt is that 1:1(compares the cycling element using 1 stringer to organize+1 red tissue of stringer in vain with the ratio of red tissue), at each white groupThe ratio with white tissue in the cycling element of green tissue composition and red tissue of knitting is 1:1；
(3) braiding of shoulder b: shoulder b is formed with thick tissue of sewing up by splitting mark tissue, segmentation mark tissue and neck portion phaseWith, thick tissue of sewing up all uses Huang tissue；
(4) even take on the braiding of sleeve portion c: even shoulder sleeve portion c by even shoulder sleeve subject organization, the thickness tissue group of cuff and cuff edge andThe thick tissue composition of sewing up at the sleeve end, even shoulder sleeve subject organization is red to be organized as main (i.e. thick tissue), green to be organized as auxiliary (the thinnest groupKnit), white tissue intersperses (i.e. mesh tissue) and carries out pattern and freely design；The thickness tissue of cuff uses red group of bias type arrangementKnit the cycling element with green tissue composition and be circulated braiding, in the cycling element that each red tissue and green tissue form red groupThe ratio with green tissue of knitting is 7:2, and the thickness tissue of cuff uses bias type to keep the cuff laminating degree with human body (such as Fig. 6Shown in)；The thick tissue of sewing up at described cuff edge and the sleeve end all uses Huang tissue；
(5) braiding of bodice portion d: bodice portion d is made up of bodice subject organization, tucking inside the sleeve with even shoulder, subject organization is identical to be organized as with redMain, green it be organized as tissue auxiliary, white and intersperse, pattern can be carried out and freely design；
(6) braiding of latasuture portion e: latasuture portion e is made up of the cross tissue that continues in all directions, the cross tissue that continues in all directions is by thick groupKnit and thin tissue composition, specifically, as it is shown on figure 3, this cross tissue that continues in all directions includes the red tissue of some circulations and greenTissue, red tissue is cross distribution；
Latasuture portion e is connected by even Selvage Stitch at the stringer that front and rear panel connects；Specifically, it is cross four at the stringer of connecting sewingDuring red tissue in connective tissue of side, even Selvage Stitch employing Fructus Citri tangerinae tissue；It it is the cross tissue that continues in all directions at the stringer of connecting sewingIn green tissue time, even Selvage Stitch uses purple tissue；
(7) braiding of lower hem f: lower hem f is sewed up tissue and segmentation note by the thickness tissue of bottom main body, the thick of bottom bottomNumber tissue composition, the cycling element that thickness tissue uses the red tissue of linear pattern and green tissue to form is circulated braiding,In the cycling element that each red tissue and green tissue form the ratio of red tissue and green tissue be 3:1(as shown in Figure 7)；DescribedThe thick stitching tissue of bottom bottom is identical with the segmentation mark tissue of shoulder and thick stitching tissue employing with segmentation mark tissueBraiding structure.
Weaving process can be adjusted the size and dimension changing T-shirt by machine upper density, thick to adapt to buman body type degree of enclosingThe needs of thin change.
The present invention uses specific single piece type even shoulder sleeve shape pattern construction to combine without the red green Weaving Cycle pattern of latasuture cross,Form that tissue change is abundant, structural upright entirely shape short-sleeve T-shirt without latasuture, warp knit of the present invention shapes entirely without latasuture short-sleeve T-shirtWeaving method need not the operation of any cutting sewing, production method is greatly simplified, and fundamentally improves design efficiency and lifeProduce benefit, and can need to carry out functional topical finishing operation according to product function, possess moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, antibacterial etc. wear function,Having expanded warp knit seamless product kind, the mesh tissue of local is also equipped with airing function, it is adaptable to the exploitation of CRUX T-shirt,Improve product quality and the market competitiveness.