CN102940586A

Movatterモバイル変換

Info

Publication number: CN102940586A
Application number: CN2012105403029A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 顾玲
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2012-12-14
Filing date: 2012-12-14
Publication date: 2013-02-27

Abstract

The invention discloses a moisturizing type cosmetic containing a transdermal enhancer. The moisturizing type cosmetic comprises the following components in parts by weight: 6-8 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 3-5 parts of butyrspermum parkii fruit oil, 3-5 parts of propyl hydroxybenzoate, 5-7 parts of tocopheryl acetate, 6-8 parts of potassium lauryl phosphate, 5-8 parts of panthenol, 4-7 parts of iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 2-4 parts of sucrose palmitate or glyceryl linoleate, 3-5 parts of tanshinone IIA, 3-5 parts of diethoxyethyl succinate, 1-3 parts of diisopropyl sebacate, 2-4 parts of dioctyl sulfosuccinate, 3-5 parts of tricaprylin, 2-4 parts of cetyl octanoate and 4-8 parts of octyl methoxycinnamate. The cosmetic also comprises the transdermal enhancer such as lepaloine, propylene glycol and ethanol. The cosmetic has a unique formula, can form a protection barrier on the skin surface and is high in skin absorption rate and good in moisturizing effect.

Description

A kind of humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer, belong to the cosmetics technical field.

Background technology

Skin is to be made of multilayer tissue, mainly is divided into epidermis, and corium and subcutaneus adipose tissue, epidermis are by horny layer, clear layer, granulosa, spinous layer, and basic unit forms, and exists without blood vessel.Keratodermatitis has barrier action, and most of functional components are difficult to see through skin, have affected the performance of these component and effects.Therefore, overcoming the skin barrier effect, promote functional component to see through epidermis and enter corium, subcutaneous tissue, even enter the body circulation, thereby play local and whole body nursing role, is one of target of cosmetics exploitation.Used for cosmetic can play cleaning, skin protection, the effect such as beautify in skin.Functional cosmetics is devoted to develop protection thing and the various bioactivator that can effectively prevent extraneous harmful substance etch.Such as collagen protein, hyaluronic acid, pantothenylol, nature moisturizing factor (NMF), vitamin E, C, A, Sargassum extract etc., all be proved it and had the effectively effects such as antioxidation, enhancing cell metabolism, moisturizing, tenderization skin.

In addition, the skin hydropenia is the problem of modern's maximum, all virtually make skin more and more dried and aging ahead of time such as cold air, dehumidifier, sunlight, therefore, for dry skin, the emphasis of components of cosmetics is mainly on the humidity regulation effect, but traditional cosmetics Transdermal absorption poor effect, cause absorbance low, moistening effect is not lasting.And some cosmetics nutritional effect is low, causes easily the side effect such as skin of face allergy and stimulation.

Transdermal enhancer is a class material that promotes functional component transdermal barrier, for increasing the permeability of topical application functional component, increases Transdermal absorption.And, less to the application of transdermal enhancer in the present cosmetics, and can not effectively utilize.

Summary of the invention

The object of the invention is to: a kind of humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer is provided, solves present cosmetics in the technical problem of filling a prescription and transdermal enhancer exists, thereby can effectively solve above-mentioned problems of the prior art.

As further preferred embodiment, described ledum terpenes extracts from narrow leaf Ledum Palustre L.var.dilatatum Wahl. by critical extraction or steam distillation and makes.

As further preferred embodiment, described transdermal enhancer also comprises one or more mixture in Pericarpium Citri Reticulatae, Flos Magnoliae, Radix Angelicae Sinensis or the Rhizoma Chuanxiong liposoluble extract.

As further preferred embodiment, described transdermal enhancer also comprises the Flos Magnoliae liposoluble extract.

Transdermal enhancer is divided into chemosynthesis transdermal enhancer and natural percutaneous promoter, and its mechanism of action is as follows:

1.1. ledum terpenes promoter can be played the effect that changes the keratodermatitis cell arrangement.

The lacuna that is arranged in lipoid hypothallus structure is signifying permeable microcosmos area.Under normal circumstances, these lacunas are small, are independent of in the horn cell gap, and under this state, it is very low that medicine enters cuticular permeability.But under the effect of penetration enhancer, these lacunas expand, expand and make adjacent lacuna to merge, and the final webbed lacuna of shape system consists of permeation pathway, passes through horny layer thereby be conducive to material molecule.Ledum terpenes is a kind of new natural percutaneous absorption promoter that extracts from narrow leaf Ledum Palustre L.var.dilatatum Wahl., and it not only has urgees to ooze effect preferably, but also has good stability and biomembrane inertia.Adopt Fourier Tranform infrared spectrum/ATR to measure the variation of skin cutin composition of layer after the ledum terpenes of variable concentrations is processed, experimental result shows, ledum terpenes can produce interference and cause it to become disordered state horny layer class lipid bilayer, change cuticular conformation, the adhesion that relaxes between them causes forming fine duct, thereby improves polar medicine at the permeability of cell internal channel.

1.2. ledum terpenes promoter affects the keratodermatitis hydration.

Can improve the binding ability of nitrogen substance and water in the skin surface keratin, improve cuticular hydration, be convenient to drug molecule and penetrate, thereby promote the Transdermal absorption of medicine.

1.3. propylene glycol: propylene glycol has dissolved substance and each homogeneous chemical composition is mixed in preparation capable of permeating skin effect, therefore as solvent, solubilizing agent and wetting agent.In cosmetics, add propylene glycol when doing promoter, can infiltrate horny layer and form therein savings, increase dissolubility and the distributivity of medicine in horny layer, thereby the transdermal penetration of medicine is produced facilitation.In addition, propylene glycol is better than hydrophilic medicament to the facilitation of lipophilic drugs.The propylene glycol of research variable concentrations sees through the impact of rat abdomen skin to lipophilic shikonin, and the result shows that the propylene glycol of variable concentrations all has facilitation to the shikonin transdermal penetration, and is best take propylene glycol concentration mechanism as 10% time.

1.4. ethanol: can increase the dissolubility of medicine, can promote again the percutaneous of medicine to absorb, concentration is that 70% and 20% ethanol is on the impact of tetracaine gel transdermal effect.The result shows through the isolated skin permeability test, the two all has the stronger short effect of oozing to the tetracaine gel, make its infiltration rate improve respectively 153 times and 112 times, wherein the short effect of oozing of 70% ethanol obviously is better than 20% ethanol, but 70% ethanol can prolong the lag time of tetracaine gel, this is because 70% ethanol can make horny layer dehydration and defat, and must enter keratodermatitis and could produce and urge to ooze due to the effect, thereby has prolonged to a certain extent its onset time.

Compared with prior art, beneficial effect of the present invention: cosmetics of the present invention adopt unique prescription, the natural percutaneous promoter that comes from Chinese herbal medicine has high, good with the skin compatibility characteristics of short saturating efficient, can overcome the skin barrier effect, transdermal enhancer in conjunction with chemosynthesis, can promote functional component to see through epidermis and enter corium, subcutaneous tissue, even enter the body circulation, thereby play local and whole body nursing role; Can form protective barrier at skin surface; the skin absorbance is high; moistening effect is good; non-stimulated and the anaphylaxis to skin; safe and effective, can effectively prevent scaly dry skin, experimental results show that moisture-keeping cosmetics of the present invention is through using 7 days; sooner or later smearing respectively once to have increases the moisture of skin effect significantly, makes the tender smooth pliable of skin water.

The specific embodiment

In order to make purpose of the present invention, technical scheme and advantage clearer, below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is further elaborated.Should be appreciated that specific embodiment described herein only in order to explain the present invention, is not intended to limit the present invention.

Disclosed all features in this description, or the step in disclosed all methods or the process, except the speciality and/or step of mutual repulsion, all can make up by any way, unless special narration all can be replaced by other equivalences or the alternative features with similar purpose, namely, unless special narration, an embodiment in a series of equivalences of each feature or the similar characteristics.

Embodiment 1

Prepare by following production stage:

1. cleaning and sterilizing stirs production equipment and related tool, and gets material ready;

2. preparation oil phase:

Sneak into by following component: cetearyl alcohol 60g, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil 30g, propyl hydroxybenzoate 40g, tocopherol acetas 60g, pantothenylol 50g, iodine propilolic alcohol butyl mephenesin Carbamate 60g, sucrose palmitate or Dimodan 30g, tanshinone ⅡA 40g, succinic acid diethoxy ethyl ester 30g, Dermol DIPS 20g, dioctyl succinate 30g, tricaprylin 50g, sad cetyl ester 30g and octyl methoxycinnamate 50g, add the oil phase pot, 90 ℃ of stirrings stir evenly as homogeneous liquid, obtain oil phase.

3. preparation water:

The water of 20 parts of 6 parts of mixing of component lauryl alcohol phosphate ester potassium is added in the water pot, and 75 ℃ of constant temperature are cooled to 60 ℃ again after 15 minutes, obtain water.

4. the preparation of ledum terpenes:

CO₂Supercritical extraction: this method is with the fluid under the critical state such as CO₂, to pass in the extractor under certain temperature, soluble constituent is dissolved in the supercritical fluid, and enter separator after the blood pressure lowering of process air relief valve together in company with this fluid, solute is separated from gas, and supercritical fluid is with after extract separates, after compression capable of circulation re-using.CO₂Storage pressure guarantees the air pressure at 5-6Pa, and concrete steps are as follows:

Pulverizing medicinal materials: narrow leaf Ledum Palustre L.var.dilatatum Wahl. 58g is ground into about 20 orders;

Refrigeration: connect refrigeration and cold circulation;

Heat: the heating of connecting extraction cylinder, separation I, separation II, rectifying column.Temperature control instrument is separately adjusted to required separately design temperature, and extraction cylinder temperature is made as 45 ℃, separate I is made as 50 ℃, separate II is made as 38 ℃.

The dress sample: take out the extraction cylinder, the dress sample is closed plug;

Pressurization: drop to about 0 ℃ at refrigerator temps, and after extracting cylinder, separation I, the approaching requirement of setting of separation II temperature, with liquid CO₂Add the extraction cylinder, after the equal pressure balance, slowly open valve, bleed off extraction cylinder residual air after, reduce partial pressure after, valve-off; The throttle of opening extraction cylinder back begins extraction.Extracting pressure 130kg/cm²

Every half an hour or fixed time, open valve and receive separator, until pure gas is discharged.Extraction time 4.5h gets extract 30.28g.As natural percutaneous promoter.

5. preheating vacuum emulsification pot, the water that elder generation's implantation step 3 obtains, the oil phase that obtains of suction step 2 again, add again the natural percutaneous promoter ledum terpenes of step 4 gained and 39g, concentration and be 10% propylene glycol, 21g, concentration are 70% ethanol, 80 ℃ of emulsifying homogeneous 6min are cooled to 60 ℃ behind the homogenizing 2min.

6. swelling is even in advance to add certain water gaging, stirs evenly, and is cooled to 45 ℃.Self check, censorship is qualified, the cooling and get final product.

Cosmetics of the present invention can be for nourishing cream, QUBAN SHUANG, sunscreen cream, sun water, vanishing cream, whitening dew, facial film, acne water, lotion for pimples, firming lotion, astringent lotion, moisturizing dew, cleansing milk, clean water, cleanly show, exfoliating scrub or shampoo.

Use the moisture-keeping cosmetics of embodiment 1 preparation through using 5 days, sooner or later smearing respectively once to have increases the moisture of skin effect significantly, makes the tender smooth pliable of skin water.

Embodiment 2

Preparation method by embodiment 1 prepares cosmetics and ledum terpenes.

The rhizome of chuanxiong liposoluble extract adopts following preparation method:

Angelica sinensis 1kg is ground into about 20 orders, for subsequent use; Connect refrigeration and cold circulation; Extraction cylinder temperature is made as 40 ℃, separate I is made as 45 ℃, separate II is made as 35 ℃; Connect the heating of extraction cylinder, separation I, separation II, rectifying column; Take out the extraction cylinder, the dress sample is closed plug; Drop to about 0 ℃ at refrigerator temps, and after extracting cylinder, separation I, the approaching requirement of setting of separation II temperature, with liquid CO₂Add the extraction cylinder, after the equal pressure balance, slowly open valve, bleed off extraction cylinder residual air after, reduce partial pressure after, valve-off; The throttle of opening extraction cylinder back begins extraction, extracting pressure 6MPa.Open valve every half an hour and receive separator, until pure gas is discharged.Extraction time 3h gets extract 12g.As natural percutaneous promoter.

Use the moisture-keeping cosmetics of embodiment 2 preparations through using 5 days, sooner or later smearing respectively once to have increases the moisture of skin effect significantly, makes the tender smooth pliable of skin water.

Embodiment 3

Preparation method by embodiment 1 prepares cosmetics and ledum terpenes.

Use separately the method for Radix Angelicae Sinensis identical among the preparation method that Pericarpium Citri Reticulatae, Flos Magnoliae, Radix Angelicae Sinensis and Flos Magnoliae liposoluble extract adopt such as the embodiment 2.

Use the moisture-keeping cosmetics of embodiment 3 preparations through using 7 days, sooner or later smearing respectively once to have increases the moisture of skin effect significantly, makes the tender smooth pliable of skin water.

The above only is preferred embodiment of the present invention, not in order to limiting the present invention, all any modifications of doing within the spirit and principles in the present invention, is equal to and replaces and improvement etc., all should be included within protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

3. the humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer as claimed in claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: described ledum terpenes extracts from narrow leaf Ledum Palustre L.var.dilatatum Wahl. by critical extraction or steam distillation and makes.

4. the humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described transdermal enhancer also comprises one or more mixture in Pericarpium Citri Reticulatae, Flos Magnoliae, Radix Angelicae Sinensis or the Rhizoma Chuanxiong liposoluble extract.

5. the humidity-preserving type cosmetic that contains transdermal enhancer as claimed in claim 4, it is characterized in that: described transdermal enhancer also comprises the Flos Magnoliae liposoluble extract.