Swansea (pronounced:Swan-zee;Welsh:Abertawe) is a city on the beautifulGower Peninsula — theUnited Kingdom's first designated "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty". With a population approaching 250,000 (2016), it is the second largest city inWales and is known for its Blue Flag beaches and stunning coastal walks.
During medieval times, Swansea was a prosperous market town, later gaining a certain prominence as a spa resort. It was during the industrial revolution, however, that the city flourished and its population grew. The city is home to the world's first passenger railway service known as the Mumbles Train, which bumped and bounced along five miles of Swansea foreshore, linking the city centre with the suburb of Mumbles. Much of the city centre's architectural heritage was lost through wartime bombing. However, the abundance of parks, stunning coastal scenery, lovely water-side suburbs, a magnificent bay-side maritime quarter, varied cultural events, medieval castles and golden sandy beaches have preserved Swansea's place as a major tourist destination. Furthermore, according to a survey conducted by an international health magazine that considered, among other factors, a city's crime rate, life-style, environment, etc., Swansea was judged to be the most relaxed city in the UK, while two national surveys have ranked the city as the third friendliest place in the country with regard to customer service and the safest urban area in the UK.
The name 'Swansea' is derived from 'Sweyn's ey,' which meant the island belonging to Sweyn (Sven) in Old Norse, the area having been settled by Scandinavians in the Middle Ages.Abertawe, by contrast, means 'mouth of the river Tawe'. Locals are known asSwansea Jacks, after a hero dog who rescued no fewer than 27 people from drowning during his seven-year life in the 1930s; Jack's memorial is on the promenade in Brynmill, close to the university.
Dylan Thomas was passionate about Swansea, and in his early days described it as an "ugly, lovely town, crawling, sprawling, slummed, unplanned, jerry-villa'd, and smug-suburbed by the side of a long and splendid curving shore." Later, he referred to it as "the most romantic town I know," and described it with great gusto as a "marble town, city of laughter, little Dublin" and screamed triumphantly "Never was there such a town!"
Incidentally, the Swansea seaside resort ofMumbles derives its name from the French wordmamelles, meaning "breasts"; take a look at the two islets off Mumbles Head from across the bay, and it is easy to see why.
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Swansea has a wet and mild climate, with winter temperatures ranging from around 4 to 6°C, while the summer average high is about 20°C but often reaching to 26 or 27°C. Sun lovers should visit Swansea from June to August, which is the period that records the most hours of sunshine and is the main tourist season. However, those who prefer long solitary walks along cliffs paths or contemplative strolls through wooded valleys should consider September and October. During these months, the air is crisp and fresh and the area quiet, with most tourists having already departed. However, as Wales is one of the wettest areas in the UK, you should always prepare for rain when visiting the region. Even in the summer, pack some rain gear and an umbrella in your luggage.
Famous Faces Swansea's rich and diverse history has created a city of character, which has proved to be very fertile ground for producing well known personalities. In the literary world,Martin Amis andDylan Thomas were born in the city and inscriptions of Thomas' verses can been found throughout the city. The Oscar award-winning actressCatherine Zeta-Jones was born and raised here, as were actorsJoanna Page andMatt Ryan. The 1970s and 80s rock sensationBonnie Tyler is also from Swansea and still lives in the seaside suburb of Mumbles.Sir Harry Secombe, who entertained the country for decades, hails from Swansea's East Side, and also in the entertainment world, the TV playwright and producerRussell T. Davies (ofDoctor Who fame) has his roots in the city, as does composerSir Karl Jenkins andIan Hislop (captain of BBC quiz showHave I Got News for You and editor ofPrivate Eye). In the upper echelons of religion, economics, politics, and royalty, the former Archbishop of Canterbury,Dr. Rowan Williams, Nobel Prize winnerProfessor Clive Granger, former deputy-prime minister,Sir Michael Heseltine, former leader of the Conservative Party,Michael Howard andPrincess Lilian of Sweden, were all born in Swansea, while among the city's most famous contributions to the sporting world were the soccer legend,John Charles, England cricketerSimon Jones and former WBO world cruiser weight champion,Enzo Maccarinelli. Within a few miles of Swansea is the birthplace of Hollywood legendsRichard Burton,Anthony Hopkins andRay Milland, and opera starsKatherine Jenkins andPaul Potts. The city's most loved character, however, is undoubtedlyJack the black retriever. During his seven years of life, he rescued at least 27 people from drowning in the murky waters of Swansea docks, and there is a small memorial in honour of this little hero on the foreshore, near the St. Helen's Stadium. |
Although it definitely has character, Swansea dialect (especially from east-side) can be hard to understand for the uninitiated.
The following usages are to be heard in Swansea:
The Swansea accent is more noticeable in blue collar areas of the city, whereas in more affluent areas people speak with a more refined Welsh accent. However, even in these areas Wenglish phrases like "Uch a fi!" (dirty) can still be heard.
About 16% of Swansea's population can speak and readWelsh in addition to English, though the majority of these are residents of the northern suburbs (i.e. those closest to the counties of Powys and Carmarthenshire). People from the original town of Swansea, east-side, Mumbles and South Gower were not traditionally Welsh speaking, and so there are far fewer Welsh speakers in these areas.
51.6253-3.94093Swansea railway station.(updated Jun 2022)
Travellers arriving from Heathrow Airport have the option of taking the shuttle bus to Reading and boarding the westbound train there — this saves travelling intoLondon — or taking theHeathrow Express high-speed rail link to London Paddington station. This service runs every 15 minutes from terminal 1, 2, 3, or every 23 minutes from terminal 4 and takes 15 minutes: £13 (single); £25 (return).
Travellers arriving from Cardiff Airport can take a train to Swansea. However, this requires a change at Bridgend. Services are provided byArriva Trains.
Bus companyFirst Cymru[dead link] maintain frequent services connecting all suburbs of Swansea and the Gower Peninsula. All buses depart from the bus station, and there are connecting links to/from Swansea's railway station. Visitors travelling to the Mumbles have the option of taking buses heading to these final destinations: Oystermouth (synonymous with Mumbles and the final stop is in the village), Limeslade (includes stops at Mumbles Square, Verdi's Cafe and Mumbles Pier), Langland, Newton and Caswell. All buses on these routes also make stops at St. Helen's Stadium, Swansea University/Singleton Park and Blackpill Lido.
First Cymru offer a one-day "FirstDay[dead link]" bus pass for the Swansea urban area. It costs £4.00 per adult before 9:30AM and £3.50 after 9:30AM.
There are several taxi ranks in the city centre. One is found at High Street Station for rail connections and one is at Swansea Bus Station for bus/coach connections. A taxi rank beside St. Mary's church serves city centre shoppers. The taxi rank on Caer Street next to Castle Square is the most convenient for people returning home after a night out on Wind Street.
Swansea is connected to the National Celtic Cycling Trail, and there are four main routes in city.
Bikes can berented at the following city centre stores:
There are some wonderfully picturesque drives in Swansea. Below are a couple of popular ones:
To start this drive, take the A4067 Mumbles Road from the city centre and turn right onto B4436 Mayals Road. Follow road over Fairwood Common and take a left at Bishopston Village. From there, follow signs for the above places.
This drive takes in some beautiful coastal scenery. Recommended stops: Verdis café (Mumbles, Swansea Bay sea front), Castellamare café (Bracelet Bay sea front), and Mumbles Village (see listing under 'See').
To start this drive, take A4118 through the bed-sit suburb of Uplands and then Killay. Finally, after leaving Upper Killay, the road passes through the heart of the Gower Peninsular. Follow signs for the above places.
This drive passes through some quintessential British countryside and culminates at stunning Rhossili Bay. Recommended stops: Parkmill is the location of the Gower Heritage Centre, with its working water wheel, and Shepards' village store and café is a good place to take refreshment. Near the village of Reynolston, you can take a short detour onto Cefn Bryn to see Arthur's Stone (see listing under 'See'). Also, in Reynolston is the beautifully renovated country inn, 'the King Arthur's Hotel', which is an excellent place for lunch. At Rhossili, there are tea houses, but the attraction here is definitely the stunning views.
As you drive along the beautiful country lanes with the smell of freshly cut grass pervading the air and the vista of a wide blue bay opening before you, the words of a famous Buddhist master — 'the journey is the goal' — will never ring truer!
Swansea has a number of excellent golf courses, many with spectacular sea views:
Bars andcafés that provide life music:
Swansea is a great place if you are intowalking[dead link]. Here are a few easily accessible routes:
The calm waters of Swansea Bay and Oxwich Bay are ideal for watersports such asskiing, wakeboarding, kayaking, dinghy sailing andPower boat training.
Some of the bestsurfing spots in the UK are in Swansea, with Llangenith, Caswell and Langland bays being the most popular.
Sailing lessons are available at several training schools in the Swansea area:
TheQuadrant Centre andOxford Street are the main shopping centres, and host all the usual department and chain stores. Between these two areas lies the much more interesting citymarket. Although housed in a modern building, Swansea Market can trace its history back to medieval times, and is the largest market in Wales. It is also a good place to purchase the local delicacy,laverbread. Laverbread requires refrigeration to keep fresh. If travelling, request vacuum-packed or canned.
On the edge of the city centre is an array of large, utilitarian shopping centres collectively known asParc Tawe. Within the complex there is also a UCI multiscreen cinema and bowling alley.Parc Fforestfach is an out-of-town shopping centre that houses several huge retail stores. And, for night owls, the hugeTesco supermarkets between the Quadrant Centre and Oystermouth Road in the city centre, Parc Fforestfach and Llansamlet are allopen 24 hours.
Swansea is teeming with quality restaurants: more than one hundred in the city centre alone. Wind Street for theme bars and qualityinternational cuisine. QualityChinese food on High Street and Princess Way. St.Helen's Road for take away and sit downIndian (also quality restaurants on Walter Road and off the Mumbles Road at Blackpill),Italian, Turkish andIndonesian. Cheap and excellent vegetarian at 8 Cradock Street, off Kingsway. TheEnvironment Centre, Pier street, Marina offers cheap and excellentfair trade coffee and snacks.
Grape and Olive at the top of the Meridian Tower in the Marina has incredible views over Swansea Bay
Mumbles Road in Mumbles has a wide range of restaurants. Check out Verdi's on Mumbles sea front for great views over a cappuccino.
Joe's Ice-cream Parlours are on St. Helen's Road, near the Guildhall, and near the post office on Mumbles Road in Mumbles.
Below is a very brief list of popular restaurants in the city centre and marina area.
V = vegetarians catered for.
American
Cafes (English Breakfast)
Cafes (Fish and Chips)
Chinese
Indian
Indonesian
International
Mexican
Thai
Vegetarian
Welsh/British
Chinese (Cantonese)
French
Indian
International
Italian
Jamaican
Japanese
Lebanese/Persian
Mediterranean
Mexican
Pan Asian
Thai
Turkish
Vegetarian
Vietnamese
Welsh/British
French
Indian
Italian
International
Mediterranean/Spanish
Welsh/British
Swansea enjoys a wonderful cafe culture, originally sparked by an influx of Italian families to the city in the early 20th century and later expanded with the establishment of local independents.
City Centre/Marina
Mumbles
Swansea Beach
Also see Mumbles section above.
Uplands
City centre: Wind Street vicinity
City centre: Kingsway vicinity
City centre: Bryn-y-Mor Road vicinity
Uplands
There is a whole row ofB&Bs on the sea-facing Oystermouth Road and also many in the spacious suburb of Uplands. Both locations are near the city centre, though lodgings in the Uplands area tend to be of better quality. Mumbles Road in Mumbles also has a wide selection of B&Bs with sea views.
Swansea has two hostels: one in the city centre and one in a rural setting (SeeGower Peninsula):
This guide uses the following price ranges for a standarddouble room: | |
Budget | below £60 |
Mid-range | £60-100 |
Splurge | £100+ |
There are many religious and spiritual groups meeting in Swansea. Below is just a representative of the most common.
As a coastal city, visitors inevitably come into contact with the sea. Be aware of local conditions before swimming or undertaking boating activities.
Among the popular beaches,Three Cliffs is dangerous for swimming due to the strong under currents caused by a tidal lagoon.Worm's Head off the tip of Rhossili Bay has also claimed many lives. Ensure that you know the times of the tides before venturing out the island. Many people have been swept away trying to return through a fast rising tide. The cliffs between theRhosilli village andWorms Head have also claimed lives, some of the grass and earth on the cliff edge is eroding and walkers should heed local warnings and stick to the path. Indeed, care should always be taken while taking clifftop walks in the Gower.
From the beginning of May,Caswell,Langland,Bracelet andPort Eynon beaches are all patrolled by professionallifeguards during the weekends. From June until September the beaches are patrolled 7 days a week
Advice for safe swimming:
Crime occurs in Swansea as in most other cities, and sensible precautions should be taken. As elsewhere in the UK, there can be drink related problems in those areas with high concentrations of pubs and clubs, such as Wind Street. In general, however, Swansea is a very safe city and violent crime is rare.
In an emergency, dial 999 and request ambulance service.
As of July 2022, Swansea has 5G from all UK carriers. Wifi is widely available in public places.
You can access the internet at public libraries, such as the Central Library on Oystermouth Road, but you need ID for registration.
Other places of interest in the Swansea area:
Routes through Swansea |
Carmarthen←Llanelli← | W ![]() | →Port Talbot→Cardiff |
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