North Uist (GaelicUibhist A Tuathis) is an island in the Western Isles orOuter Hebrides of Scotland. It measures 20 miles north-south, 25 miles east-west, and is separated from Benbecula to the south by a tidal ford, nowadays bridged by a causeway. It's poor farmland, boggy, low-lying and dotted by innumerable lochans or small lakes. In 2011 the population was 1619.
Lochmaddy (Loch nam Madaidh) on the east coast is the ferry port and what passes for the main village, but most settlement is scattered along the west coast, where the machair provides grazing for crofting.
It is remarkable how many fights and feuds have contested this poor farmland, which lacks a fishing industry or mineral wealth. North Uist, like the rest of the Highlands and Islands, was drained of its population at first by gradual voluntary emigration, then in the 19th century by brusque eviction to make way for sheep farming. Its hills were also turned over to grouse-shooting and deer-stalking. In Sollas in 1849 there was a pitched battle between residents and evicting officers, but it didn't halt the process. The 20th century saw a slow revival of Gaelic language and culture, and of the crofting way of life.
The Outer Hebridean islands had fragmented governance until 1975 when the Western Isles Council (Comhairle nan Eilean Siar) was formed. There was also European funding for indigenous minority cultures, and later a sympathetic Scottish parliament, so today two-thirds of North Uist's population speak Gaelic. Ro-ro ferries made visitor and truck access from the mainland easier, and the island's Protestant Sabbatarians were unable to block the introduction of Sunday ferries in 1989.
The landscape is undeniably stark, it's not "picturesque" like Skye. But it has a haunting quality as the sea breeze ruffles the marram grass by long summer beaches, or winter dark skies display the stars and aurora.
57.4739-7.37181Benbecula (BEB IATA) is the airport for the Uists, a short drive south across the causeway.Loganair fly daily from Glasgow taking an hour, and M-F from Stornoway on Lewis taking 35 min. Buses between North and South Uist run past the airport.
57.597-7.1572Lochmaddy hasCalmac ferries fromUig on Skye, with one or two per day year-round taking 1 hr 45 min. Until end of March 2026, return fares are £81 per car, £16.40 per adult including driver, and £8.20 per child aged 5-15. Buses from Glasgow Buchanan station connect with the ferries from Uig, which is effectively on the mainland since Skye is linked by a bridge.
Another route is from Mallaig on the mainland to Lochboisdale onSouth Uist. It sails daily Apr-Oct taking 3 hr 30 min, then you have a long drive north up the causeways. From November to March there's no sailing Tuesday or Thursday, and some ferries ply from Oban (a 5-hour crossing) instead of Mallaig.
57.703-7.1813Berneray, linked by road to North Uist, has a car ferry fromLeverburgh on Harris. This sails 3 or 4 times per day, taking one hour.
For your own boat, Lochmaddy has asmall marina which charges £2 per metre of boat length per night. There are also some mooring buoys at £10 per night.
The Uists have long been linked by causeways. The road across these is well clear of the sea and passable in all tides and weathers except for the worst Atlantic winds and waves. Northbound (as B893) the road crosses to Berneray, the ferry port for Leverburgh on Harris, and ends. Southbound (as A865) it crosses to Grimsay then Benbecula, with the airport. It continues down the long thin island of South Uist to Lochboisdale, which has ferries for Mallaig. Lastly it crosses onto Eriskay, which has ferries to Barra.
Buses W10, 16 and 17 run M-Sa along the chain of islands, integrated with ferries so you can travel in a day between Stornoway on Lewis and Castlebay on Barra, though only one service per day plies the entire route. North Uist, being midway, has more connections, with four from Stornoway, six from Tarbert on Harris, six from Benbecula and South Uist, and three from Barra.
The terrain is low-lying and easy for cycling, though the breeze is often stiff. All roads are single-track with passing places. Drivers, please observe the traditional Highland etiquette: always give way to mad fellows in white vans who are driving at Mach 2 to try to catch the ferry.
There is no car hire on North Uist, seeBenbecula for hire firms based at the airport. You can take the hired car to other islands and may be permitted to drop-off there, but may not take it to the mainland.
Bus W18 loops clockwise (twice per day) and anticlockwise (once per day) along the island's main road, from Lochmaddy and back. It doesn't cross to Berneray or Benbecula. There are additional part route services, some of which require a telephone booking the day before.
Taxis are scarce on the Uists and the distances are large, so don't expect that the drivers will be willing to take every fare.
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As of Sep 2023, North Uist has 4G from EE but no signal from other carriers. 5G has not reached the Uists.
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