​ALPACA, one of two domesticated breeds of South Americancamel-like ungulates, derived from the wild huanaco or guanaco.Alpacas are kept in large flocks which graze on the level heightsof the Andes of southern Peru and northern Bolivia, at an elevationof from 14,000 to 16,000 ft. above the sea-level, throughoutthe year. They are not used as beasts of burden like llamas,but are valued only for their wool, of which the Indian blanketsand ponchos are made. The colour is usually dark brown orblack and the coat of great length, reaching nearly to the ground.In stature the alpaca (Lama huanacos pacos) is considerablyinferior to the llama, but has the same unpleasant habit ofspitting.

In the textile industries “alpaca” is a name given to twodistinct things. It is primarily a term applied to the wool, orrather hair, obtained from the Peruvian alpaca. It is, however,more broadly applied to a style of fabric originally made fromthe alpaca wool but now frequently made from an allied typeof wool, viz. mohair, Iceland, or even from lustrous Englishwool. In the trade, distinctions are made between alpacas andthe several styles of mohairs and lustres, but so far as the generalpurchaser is concerned little or no distinction is made.

The four species of indigenous South American wool-bearinganimals are the llama, the alpaca, the guanaco and the vicuña.The llama and the alpaca are domesticated; the guanaco andthe vicuña run wild. Of the four the alpaca and the vicuña arethe most valuable wool-bearing animals: the alpaca on accountof the quality and quantity, the vicuña on account of the softness,fineness and quality of its wool. In the early days of the 19thcentury, the usual length of alpaca staples appears to havebeen about 12 in., this being a three years growth; butto-day the length is little more than about half this,i.e. a one totwo years growth, although from time to time longer staplesare to be found. The fleeces are sorted for colour and quality ​by skilled native women. The colour of the greater proportionof alpaca imported into the United Kingdom is black and brown,but there is also a fair proportion of white, grey and fawn. It iscustomary to mix these colours together, thus producing a curiousginger-coloured yarn, which upon being dyed black in the piecetakes a fuller and deeper shade than can be obtained by piece-dyeinga solid-coloured wool. In physical structure alpaca issomewhat akin to hair, being very glossy, but its softness andfineness enable the spinner to produce satisfactory yarns withcomparative ease.

The history of the manufacture of this wool into cloth is oneof the romances of commerce. Undoubtedly the Indians ofPeru employed this fibre in the manufacture of many styles offabrics for centuries before its introduction into Europe as acommercial product. The first European importations wouldnaturally be into Spain. Spain, however, transferred the fibreto Germany and France. Apparently alpaca yarn was spun inEngland for the first time about the year 1808. It does notappear to have made any headway, however, and alpaca woolwas condemned as an unworkable material. In 1830 BenjaminOutram, of Greetland, near Halifax, appears to have againattempted the spinning of this fibre, and for the second timealpaca was condemned. These two attempts to use alpaca werefailures owing to the style of fabric into which the yarn waswoven—a species of camlet. It was not until the introductionof cotton warps into the Bradford trade about 1836 that the truequalities of alpaca could be developed in the fabric. Where thecotton warp and mohair or alpaca weft plain-cloth came from isnot known, but it was this simple yet ingenious structure whichenabledTitus Salt (q.v.), then a young Bradford manufacturer,to utilize alpaca successfully. Bradford is still the great spinningand manufacturing centre for alpacas, large quantities of yarnsand cloths being exported annually to the continent and to theUnited States, although the quantities naturally vary in accordancewith the fashions in vogue, the typical “alpaca-fabric”being a very characteristic “dress-fabric.”

The following statistics, taken from Hooper’sStatistics of the Woollen and Worsted Trades of the United Kingdom, give an ideaof the extent of the trade in yarns and fabrics of the alpacatype; unfortunately statistics for alpaca alone are not published.

Owing to the success in the manufacture of the various stylesof alpaca cloths attained by Sir Titus Salt and other Bradfordmanufacturers, a great demand for alpaca wool arose, and thisdemand could not be met by the native product, for there neverseems to have been any appreciable increase in the number ofalpacas available. Unsuccessful attempts were made to acclimatizethe alpaca goat in England, on the European continent andin Australia, and even to cross certain English breeds of sheepwith the alpaca. There is, however, a cross between the alpacaand the llama—a true hybrid in every sense—producing amaterial placed upon the Liverpool market under the name“Huarizo.” Crosses between the alpaca and vicuña have notproved satisfactory.

The preparing, combing, spinning, weaving and finishing of alpacas and mohairs are dealt with underWool. (A. F. B.)