| Yukshin Gardan Sar | |||
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| Simplified Chinese | 雅克辛嘎丹峰 | ||
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Yukshin Gardan Sar (Urdu:یکشن گردن سر) is a high peak in theShimshal Valley, in theKarakoramrange inGilgit-Baltistan,Pakistan. Its height is often given as 7,469 m (24,505 ft) or 7,641 m (25,069 ft). It lies about 16 km (10 mi) northeast ofKhunyang Chhish and 6 km (3.75 mi) northwest ofKanjut Sar. It is flanked on the northwest by the Yazghil Glacier and on the northeast by the Yukshin Gardan Glacier; both drain into theShimshal River. According to many residents ofShimshal, Yukshin Gardan Sar is the name of the adjacent peak Kanjut Sar, and vice versa. In Shimshal village, the original namings are widely accepted and used, as opposed to what is recognised internationally.
Yukshin Gardan Sar was first climbed on June 26, 1984, by aPakistani-Austrian group, led by Rudolf Wurzer. They ascended via the South Ridge, which they accessed via the Yazghil Glacier on the west side of the peak.[1]
The second ascent followed very shortly after the first, on July 23, 1984. A Pakistani-Japanese group that had been on the mountain simultaneously with the first ascent party switched from their unworkable North Ridge route to make analpine style ascent of the first ascent route on the South Ridge.[2]
The third ascent of the peak was in 1986, by aSpanish team comprising Alejandro Arranz, Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, and Tomás Miguel. They used the same route as the first-ascent party.[3] According to theHimalayan IndexArchived 2014-06-22 at theWayback Machine, there have been no other ascents or attempts on this peak since that time.
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