Wells takes its name from threeholy wells dedicated toSaint Andrew that lie within the grounds of theBishop's Palace and cathedral and supply water to the marketplace.[5] A small Roman settlement surrounded them, which grew in importance and size under theAnglo-Saxons when KingIne of Wessex founded aminster church there in 704. The community became a trading centre based on cloth making and Wells is notable for its 17th-century involvement in both theEnglish Civil War and theMonmouth Rebellion. In the 19th century, transport infrastructure improved with stations on three different railway lines. However, following theBeeching axe in 1964 the city has been without a railway link.
The cathedral and the associated religious and medieval architectural history provide much of the employment. The city has a variety of sporting and cultural activities and houses several schools includingThe Blue School, a state coeducational comprehensive school that was founded in 1641, and the privateWells Cathedral School, which was founded possibly as early as 909 and is one of the five established musical schools for school-age children in the United Kingdom. Wells's historic architecture has led to the city being used as a shooting location for numerous films and television programmes.[6]
One of the three wells which give the city its name; two are located in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace (as shown) and one in the Market Place.
The city was aRoman settlement that became an important centre under the Anglo-Saxons whenKing Ine ofWessex founded a minster church in 704.[7] Two hundred years later, in 909, it became the seat of the newly formedbishopric of Wells; but in 1090, the bishop's seat was removed toBath. The move caused severe arguments between the canons of Wells and the monks of Bath until 1245 when the bishopric was renamed theDiocese of Bath and Wells, to be elected by both religious houses. With the construction of thecurrent cathedral and thebishop's palace in the first half of the 13th century, under the direction ofBishop Reginald and laterBishop Jocelin, a native of the city, Wells became the principal seat of the diocese.
The 8th-century port atBleadney on theRiver Axe enabled goods to be brought to within 3 mi (5 km) of Wells. In theMiddle Ages overseas trade was carried out from the port ofRackley. In the 14th century a French ship sailed up the river, and by 1388 Thomas Tanner from Wells used Rackley to export cloth andcorn to Portugal, and received iron andsalt in exchange.[8] Wells had been a centre for cloth making; however, in the 16th and 17th centuries this diminished, but the city retained its important market focus.[9] Wells in the 19th century had the largest cheese market in the west of England.[10]
Wells was listed in theDomesday Book of 1086 asWelle, from theOld Englishwiells,[11] not as a town but as four manors with a population of 132, which implies a population of 500–600.[12] Earlier names for the settlement have been identified which includeFontanetum,[13] in a charter of 725 granted by King Ina toGlastonbury andFontanensis Ecclesia.[13] "Tidesput" or "Tithesput furlang" relates to the area east of the bishop's garden in 1245.[14] Wells was part of, and gave its name to, thehundred ofWells Forum.
Wells had been granted charters to hold markets byBishop Robert (1136–66) and freeburgage tenure was granted byBishop Reginald (1174–1191).[10] Wells was recognised as a freeborough by a Royal charter ofKing John in 1201. The city remained under episcopal control until its charter of incorporation from QueenElizabeth I in 1589.[15][16] City status was most recently confirmed by QueenElizabeth II byletters patent issued under theGreat Seal dated 1 April 1974, which grantedcity status specifically to thecivil parish;[17][18] on that date major local government reorganisation came into effect, which involved the abolition of themunicipal borough of Wells.[19]
Alidar view of the cathedral and palace revealing archaeological residues in nearby areas.
Anne of Denmark, the wife ofKing James came to Wells on 20 August 1613. She was entertained by a pageant performed by the town's trades and crafts. The blacksmiths presented Vulcan's forge. The butchers made a tableau of "old virgins", with their attires made of cow tails and necklaces made of cow's horns, who were drawn in a chariot by men and boys dressed in ox skins. The mayor, William Bull, held a dinner for members of the queen's household including her four maids of honour.[20] The Venetian ambassadorAntonio Foscarini recorded her delight.[21]
During theEnglish Civil War (1642–1651), at what became known as the "Siege of Wells", the city found itself surrounded by Parliamentarian guns on the Bristol, Glastonbury and Shepton Mallet sides. Col.William Strode had 2,000 men and 150 horse. The Royalists evacuated the city. Parliamentarian troops then used the cathedral to stable their horses and damaged much of the ornate sculpture by using it for firing practice.[22]
William Penn stayed in Wells shortly before leaving for America (1682), spending a night at The Crown Inn. Here he was briefly arrested for addressing a large crowd in the market place, but released on the intervention of the Bishop of Bath and Wells.[23] During theMonmouth Rebellion (1685) the rebel army attacked the cathedral in an outburst against theestablished church and damaged the west front. Lead from the roof was used to make bullets, windows were broken, the organ smashed and horses stabled in the nave.[24] Wells was the final location of theBloody Assizes on 23 September 1685. In a makeshift court lasting only one day, over 500 men were tried and the majority sentenced to death.[25]
Wells first station,Priory Road, opened in 1859 on the Somerset Central Railway (later theSomerset & Dorset Joint Railway, S&DJR) as the terminus of a short branch fromGlastonbury.[26] A second railway, theEast Somerset, opened a branch line fromWitham in 1862 and builtWells East Somerset station to the east of Priory Road.[26] In 1870, theCheddar Valley line branch of theBristol & Exeter Railway fromYatton, reached Wells and built a third station atTucker Street.[27] Matters were simplified when theGreat Western Railway acquired the Cheddar Valley and the East Somerset lines and built a link between them that ran through the S&DJR's Priory Road station. In 1878, when through trains began running between Yatton and Witham, the East Somerset station closed, but through trains did not stop at Priory Road until 1934. Priory Road closed to passenger traffic in 1951 when the S&DJR branch line from Glastonbury was shut, though it remained the city's main goods depot. Tucker Street closed in 1963 under theBeeching cuts, which closed the Yatton to Witham line to passengers. Goods traffic to Wells ceased in 1964.Southern Railway West Country class steam locomotive no 34092 was namedCity of Wells at a ceremony at Priory Road station in 1949. It was used to haul theGolden Arrow service betweenLondon andDover. It was withdrawn from service in 1964, and rescued from a scrapyard in 1971, and as August 2021 was operational on theEast Lancashire Railway.[28]
The Market Place is the site of one of the city's ancient wells (note the water flowing in the gully, down High Street); theBishop's Eye gatehouse (to the Bishop's Palace) is at the far end; two of Wells Cathedral's towers can be seen rising behind the buildings.
Wells City Council is aparish council, with a membership of sixteen councillors, elected from threeparish wards. They are (with the number of parish councillors each elects, in brackets): Central (four), St. Thomas' (six) and St. Cuthbert's (six).[30][31]
Thecivil parish of Wells was formed in 1933[32] upon the merger ofWells St Cuthbert In andWells St Andrew (the latter being the historic liberty of the cathedral, the bishop's palace, etc., amounting to just 52 acres (21 ha)).[33] Wells is thesuccessor parish for Wells Municipal Borough, which existed from the creation ofmunicipal boroughs in 1835 to their abolition in 1974.[34] The parish has held thecity status of Wells since 1 April 1974[17] (previously held by the municipal borough) and the member of the City Council who chairs the council holds the historic office of Mayor of Wells, typically for one year. The current mayor (for the 2024-25 municipal year) is Councillor Jasmine Browne, who is the 650th Mayor of Wells. She assumed office on 18th May 2024.[35] Another historic position is that of theTown Crier.[36]
The City Council has responsibility for local issues, including setting an annual precept (local rate) to cover the council's operating costs and producing annual accounts for public scrutiny. They also evaluate local planning applications and work with the local police, district council officers, andneighbourhood watch groups on matters of crime, security, and traffic. This includes city centre management includingCCTV, an alcohol ban and regulating street trading permissions including the two funfairs held in the Market Place in May and November each year and the Wells in Bloom competition.[31] The city council's role also includes initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of city facilities, as well as consulting with the district council on the maintenance, repair, and improvement of highways, drainage, footpaths, public transport, and street cleaning. They are involved in the management of the Community Sports Development Centre at the Blue School, theskateboard park andallotments in the grounds of the Bishop's Palace, Burcott Road and Barnes Close. Conservation matters (including trees and listed buildings) and environmental issues are also the responsibility of the council.[31]
Wells Town Hall was built in 1778, with the porch and arcade being added in 1861 and the balcony and round windows in 1932. It is a Grade IIlisted building.[37] It replaced the former on the site of the Market and Assize Hall in the Market Place,[38] and a Canonical House also known as 'The Exchequer', on the authority of an Act of Parliament dated 1779. The building also houses the magistrates courts and other offices. TheAssize court last sat here in October 1970.[37]
All other local government services are provided bySomerset Council, aunitary authority established in April 2023. Prior to this date, Wells elected five councillors toMendip District Council from the same three wards as are used for the City Council (two were returned from St Cuthbert's, two from St Thomas' and one from Central).[39] Wells is an electoral division (with the same boundaries as the civil parish) of Somerset and returns two councillor to Somerset Council, but returned one to its predecessorSomerset County Council.[40] Wells is part of theWells and Mendip Hills constituency.
The Wells city arms show anash tree surrounded by threewater wells, crested with a goldmural crown, with theLatin mottoHoc fonte derivata copia (translated: "the fullness that springs from this well").[41]
The council formalisedtwinning links withParay-le-Monial, France, andBad Dürkheim, Germany in 1979, then addedFontanellato, Italy in 1983; the Wells Twinning Association and the Mayor of Wells organise the twinning activities.[42]
Map of Wells showing city/parish border, and urban area:
City/parish border
Countryside
Urban area
As the seat of an ancient cathedral anddiocese, Wells is historically regarded as a city.[47] City status was most recently confirmed by Queen Elizabeth II by letters patent dated 1 April 1974, which granted city status specifically to the civil parish.[17] As the designation is typically awarded to a local council area,[48] this administrative area is then considered to be the formal boundary of the city, including its urban and rural extents. Wells, due to itsurban area and wider parish sizes, is near-smallest city on several measures based on 2011 statistics:[49]
Its city council boundary area, surrounded wholly by countryside makes Wells the smallest free-standing city in the UK (2.11 sq mi)[50] - theCity of London is smaller (1.12)[51] but is part of a much larger urban area (Greater London - 671 sq mi)[52]
2nd smallest in England and UK by city council boundary area (2.11 sq mi) behind the City of London (1.12)
2nd smallest in England only by population and urban area (10,536 residents, 1.35 sq mi)[53] behind the City of London (8,072, 1.12)
4th smallest in the UK by population and urban area behindSt Davids (1,841 residents, 0.23 sq mi),[54]St Asaph (3,355, 0.50)[55] and theCity of London (8,072, 1.12).
Streams passing throughcaves on the Mendip Hills, includingThrupe Lane Swallet andViaduct Sink (approximately 5 km or 3 mi east of the city), emerge at Saint Andrew's Well in the garden of the Bishop's Palace,[56][57][58] from where the water fills the moat around the Palace and then flows into Keward Brook, which carries it for approximately a mile west to the point where the brook joins theRiver Sheppey in the village ofCoxley.[59]
Along with the rest ofSouth West England, the Mendip Hills have atemperate climate which is generally wetter and milder than the rest of England. The annual mean temperature is about 10 °C (50 °F) with seasonal anddiurnal variations, but due to the modifying effect of the sea, the range is less than in most other parts of the United Kingdom. January is the coldest month with mean minimum temperatures between 1 and 2 °C (34 and 36 °F). July and August are the warmest months in the region with mean daily maxima around 21 °C (70 °F). In general, December is the dullest month and June the sunniest. The south west of England enjoys a favoured location, particularly in summer, when theAzores High extends its influence north-eastwards towards the UK.[60]
Cloud often forms inland, especially near hills, and reduces exposure to sunshine. The average annual sunshine totals around 1600 hours.Rainfall tends to be associated with Atlanticdepressions or with convection. In summer, convection caused by solar surface heating sometimes forms shower clouds and a large proportion of the annual precipitation falls from showers andthunderstorms at this time of year. Average rainfall is around 800–900 mm (31–35 in). About 8–15 days ofsnowfall is typical. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, with June to August having the lightest. The predominant wind direction is from the south west.[60]
The civil parish of Wells is entirely surrounded by the parish ofSt Cuthbert Out.
The population of the civil parish, recorded in the2011 census, was 10,536.[61] Of this number 97.5% are ethnically White (with the more specific White British category recorded at 93.5%)[62] and 66.5% described themselves as Christian.[63] The mean average age in 2011 was 41.9 years (the median age being 43).[64]
Following construction of theA39/A371 bypass, the centre of the city has returned to being that of a quietmarket town. It has all the modern conveniences plus shops, hotels and restaurants.[67] Wells is a popular tourist destination, due to its historical sites,[68] its proximity toBath,Bristol,Stonehenge and Glastonbury and its closeness to the Somerset coast. Also nearby areWookey Hole Caves, theMendip Hills and theSomerset Levels. Somerset cheese, includingCheddar, is made locally. Wells is part of the Wells and Shepton Mallettravel to work area which also includes Glastonbury, Cheddar and surrounding areas.[69]
Wells Cathedral School, founded in 909, is aprivate school that has a Christian emphasis and is one of the five established musical schools for school-age children inBritain. The school teaches over 700pupils between the ages of 3 and 18. The school'sboarding houses line the northern parts of the city and the music school retains close links with Wells Cathedral.[79] The primary schools in Wells are Stoberry Park School, St Cuthbert's Church of England Infants School, St Cuthbert's Church of England Junior School and St Joseph and St Teresa Catholic Primary School.
Wells Film Centre shows current releases and, in conjunction with the Wells Film Society shows less well known and historical films.[82] The previous cinema, The Regal in Priory Road, closed in 1993 and is now Kudos Nightclub. It was built in 1935 by ES Roberts fromFlemish bond brickwork withArt Deco features. It is a Grade IIlisted building,[83] and was on theBuildings at Risk Register until its restoration which included the restoration and repair of thestained glass façade.[84] Wells Little Theatre is operated by a voluntary society which started in 1902. In 1969 they took over the old boy's building of Wells Blue School, where they put on a variety of operatic and other productions.[85]
TheChurch of St Cuthbert has a Somerset stone tower and a carved roof. Originally an Early English building (13th century), it was much altered in thePerpendicular period.[18] The nave's coloured ceiling was repainted in 1963 at the instigation of the then Vicar's wife, Mrs Barnett.[91][92] Until 1561 the church had a central tower which either collapsed or was removed, and has been replaced with the current tower over the west door.[93] Bells were cast for the tower by Roger Purdy.[94]
The cathedral is theseat of theChurch of EnglandDiocese of Bath and Wells. Wells has been an ecclesiastical city of importance since at least the early 8th century. Parts of the building date back to the tenth century, and it is a grade I listed building.[98] It is known for its fine fan vaulted ceilings, Lady Chapel and windows, and the scissor arches which support the central tower. The west front is said to be the finest collection of statuary in Europe,[99] retaining almost 300 of its original medieval statues,[100] carved from the cathedral's warm, yellowDoulting stone.[101] The Chapter House, at the top of a flight of stone stairs, leading out from the north transept is an octagonal building with a fan-vaulted ceiling.[102] It is here that the business of running the cathedral is still conducted by the members of the Chapter, the cathedral's ruling body.Wells Cathedral clock is famous for its 24-hour astronomical dial and set of jousting knights that perform every quarter-hour. The cathedral has the heaviest ring of ten bells in the world. The tenor bell weighs just over 56 cwt (6,272 lb, 2,844 kg).[103]
The Bishop's Palace has been the home of the bishops of theDiocese of Bath and Wells for 800 years. The hall and chapel date from the 14th century.[114] There are 14 acres (5.7 ha) of gardens including the springs from which the city takes its name. Visitors can also see the Bishop's private chapel, ruined great hall and the gatehouse with portcullis and drawbridge beside whichmute swans ring a bell for food.[115] TheBishop's Barn was built in the 15th century.[116]
Mid-SomersetHockey Club and Wells City Acorns Hockey Club both play on theAstroturf pitches at the Blue School,[120] where several other sports clubs are based.[121] Wells Leisure Centre has a 25 m (82 ft) swimming pool, gymnasium, sports hall, sauna, steam room, relaxation area and solarium.[122] The 18-hole Wells Golf Club is on the outskirts of the city and also has a 24-bay driving range with optional grass tees.[123]
Elizabeth Goudge used Wells as a basis for the fictional cathedral city of Torminster, in her bookA City of Bells (1936), and its two sequelsSister of the Angels (1939) andHenrietta's House (1942:The Blue Hills, USA title).[124]
John Keate – born in Wells 1773, went on to become headmaster atEton where he restored discipline with thebirch, and once flogged 80 boys in one day.[144]
Harry Patch – lasttrench veteran of World War I, and at 111, briefly the oldest man in Europe and3rd oldest man in the world. He was born in the nearby village ofCombe Down and at the time of his death in July 2009 he was living in local care home Fletcher House.[147]
^Black Dog of Wells (2016)."Film and Television in Wells".The Crown at Wells, C1450. The Crown at Wells and Anton's Bistrot. Archived fromthe original on 13 September 2018. Retrieved4 January 2017.
^Toulson, Shirley (1984).The Mendip Hills: A Threatened Landscape. London: Victor Gollancz.ISBN0-575-03453-X.
^"Medieval town, Wells".Somerset Historic Environment Record. Somerset County Council.Archived from the original on 3 October 2016. Retrieved4 February 2010.
^"DIAMOND JUBILEE CIVIC HONOURS COMPETITIONS - ENTRY GUIDELINES"(PDF).Archived(PDF) from the original on 22 August 2021. Retrieved18 January 2019.Her Majesty The Queen has agreed that competitions may be held for a grant of city status and a grant of Lord Mayoralty (called a Lord Provostship in Scotland) to mark Her Diamond Jubilee in 2012.
1. Any local authority (district, borough, parish/town/community or unitary council) in any part of the United Kingdom which considers that its area deserves to be granted the rare honour of city status on this very special occasion is welcome to enter the competition....
3. Applications may only be made by an elected local authority – normally, in respect of the entire local authority area.
^Area E04008595 (Wells parish) in tables PP001 (Households) and PP002 (Sex), available at"Parish Profiles". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved5 August 2024.
^"Film Locations".Cross-Crosscombe. 20 April 2016.Archived from the original on 5 January 2017. Retrieved4 January 2017.During the past couple of years Wells has played host to a mix of documentaries, period and modern dramas and a Hollywood blockbuster or two. The city featured in acclaimed TV drama, Wolf Hall, The Great British Food Trip with Terry Wogan (R.I.P) and big budget film, The Huntsman to name but a few. (See a comprehensive list here.)
^"Filming and Photography".The Bishop's Palace. 4 January 2017.Archived from the original on 5 January 2017. Retrieved4 January 2017.... the backdrop to many films and tv shows. Recent film work here includes
^Hooper, James (7 June 1994)."To he who lit the Stygian caves".Depth through thought -OUCC News. Oxford University Cave Club.Archived from the original on 16 July 2011. Retrieved2 May 2008.