Moire (/ˈmwɑːr/ or/ˈmɔːr/), less oftenmoiré, is atextile with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly fromsilk, but alsowool,cotton andrayon. The watered appearance is usually created by thefinishing technique calledcalendering.Moiré effects are also achieved by certain weaves,[1] such as varying the tension in thewarp andweft of the weave. Silk treated in this way is sometimes calledwatered silk.[2]
Moire is produced from two distinctly different methods of finishing. Calendering produces the true moire, known as "moire antique" and "moire Anglaise", which is a purely physical phenomenon. In calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise in half with the face side inward, and with the twoselvedges running together side by side.[1][2][3] To produce moire, ribbed rollers are used, and the ribs produce the watermark effect. The rollers polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous.[4] High temperatures and pressure are used as well,[5] and the fabric is often damped before being run through the rollers. The end result is a peculiar luster resulting from the divergent reflection of the light rays on the material, a divergence brought about by compressing and flattening the warp and filling threads in places, thereby forming a surface which reflects light differently. The weft threads also are moved slightly.[2][3]
Changeable moire is a term for fabric with a warp of one color and a weft of another, which gives different effects in different lights.[6] Examples includeshot silk.
Moire fabric is more delicate than fabric of the same type that has not gone through the calendering process. Also, contact with water removes the watermark and causes staining.[5] Moire feels thin, glossy and papery due to the calendering process.[3] Generally moire is made out of fabrics with a good body and defined ribs, such asgrosgrain. Fabrics with defined ribs show the watered effect better than smooth fabrics likesatin.Taffeta also works well.[3] Fabrics with defined enough ribs can be calendered with smooth rollers and produce a moire finish; however generally the rollers have ribs that correspond to the grain of the fabric. The moire effect may be obtained on silk, worsted, or cotton fabrics, though it is impossible to develop it on anything other than a grained or fine corded weave.[7]
Moire can also be produced by running fabric through engraved copper rollers.[2]
In French, the adjectivemoiré (in use since at least 1823) derives from the earlier verbmoirer, "to produce a watered textile by weaving or pressing".Moirer, in turn, is a variation of the wordmouaire which is an adoption of the Englishmohair (in use since at least 1570).Mohair comes from the Arabicmukhayyar (مُخَيَّر,lit. "chosen"), a cloth made from the wool of theAngora goat.Mukhayyar (مُخَيَّر) descends fromkhayyara (خيّر,lit. "he chose"). "Chosen" is meant in the sense of "a choice, or excellent, cloth".[8]
By 1660 (in the writings ofSamuel Pepys),moire (ormoyre) had been adopted in English.
During theMiddle Ages, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women’s dresses, capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.[7] Originally moire was only made ofsilktaffeta; however, now cotton andsynthetic fibers such asviscose (rayon) are also used.[5] Moire has been worn throughout the late 19th century and early 20th century, and is still used forevening dresses andwedding gowns.
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