Vitoria-Gasteiz is a dynamic city with strengths inhealth-care,aeronautics, theautomotive industry, andviticulture. It is the first Spanish municipality to be awarded the title ofEuropean Green Capital (in 2012) and it has been also recognized by the UN with the Global Green City Award (in 2019). The old town has some of the best preserved medieval streets and plazas in the region and it is one of very few cities with two cathedrals. The city also holds well known festivals such as theAzkena rock festival,FesTVal,Vitoria-Gasteiz jazz festival, and theVirgen Blanca Festivities. The city is often ranked as one with the highest standard of living among all cities in Spain, and first as to green areas[4] and cultural places per capita.
The official name of Vitoria-Gasteiz is a compound name of its traditional names inSpanish andBasque, respectively. By inhabitants, it is still generally referred to as eitherVitoria orGasteiz, depending on the language spoken. More rarely, it may be referred to by Basque speakers asVitorixe, a Basque form of the Spanish name.
In 581 AD, theVisigoth kingLiuvigild founded the city of Victoriacum, trying to emulate theRoman foundations, as a celebration of the victory against theVascones near what is assumed to be the hill occupied by the primitive village of Gasteiz. This however is not sufficiently proven, and some historians and experts believe that Victoriacum was located not on the site of present-day Vitoria-Gasteiz but nearby. Several possible locations have been proposed, the foremost of which is the late Roman military camp ofIruña-Veleia (cf. J. M. Lacarra). Veleia is located some 11 km north of modern Vitoria, on the banks of the same river. However, modern archeological studies of the site suggest that Veleia was last inhabitedc. 5th century AD, and archeologists are still to find a 6th-century Visigothic resettlement in the site.[5] Another theory has suggested that Victoriacum was located at the foot of MountGorbea where there is a village calledVitoriano. The town ofArmentia, nowadays in the outskirts of Vitoria, has also been proposed as a possible location of Victoriacum.[6] In either case, Victoriacum vanishes from history shortly after its foundation.[7]
In 1181, Sancho the Wise,King of Navarre founded the town ofNova Victoria as a defensive outpost on top of a hill at the site of the previous settlement of Gasteiz. The existence ofGastehiz, apparently inhabited by Vasconic people,[8] can be traced back to the Middle Ages; it is certain that by the 11th century, prior to the foundation ofNova Victoria, the settlement was already walled. It is assumed that Sancho the Wise gave the new city its name in memory of the old settlement of Victoriacum, which must had long since been abandoned.[7] In 1199, the town was besieged for nine months and eventually captured by the troops ofAlfonso VIII of Castile, who annexed the town to theKingdom of Castile. The town was progressively enlarged and in 1431 it was granted a citycharter byKing Juan II of Castile. In 1463, it was one of the five foundingvillas of the Brotherhood of Álava alongsideSajazarra,Miranda de Ebro,Pancorbo andSalvatierra/Agurain.
TheBattle of Vitoria of thePeninsular War occurred near Vitoria-Gasteiz along the riverZadorra on 21 June 1813. An allied British, Portuguese, and Spanish army underGeneral the Marquess of Wellington broke the French army underJoseph Bonaparte and MarshalJean-Baptiste Jourdan. The victory assured the eventual end of French control in Spain. There is a monument commemorating this battle in the main square of the city known as the Monument to Independence.
Work began on the Institute for Middle Education in 1843, with classes beginning during the 1853–54 academic year. It is now current headquarters of theBasque Parliament and formerly the convent of Santa Clara. The Free University opened in the wake of the revolution of 1868. The university operated from 1869, to just prior to the 1873–1874 term, largely because of thesecond Carlist War. Some of its most notable academics were Ricardo Becerro de Bengoa, Julián Apraiz andFederico Baraibar. The latter was also among the first teachers of Basque in Vitoria-Gasteiz as an off-syllabus subject.
At the start of theSpanish Civil War Álava and Vitoria were easily captured by the rebelNationalists led by General Angel García Benítez, assisted by ColonelCamilo Alonso Vega.[9] Vitoria was captured on 19 July 1936.[10] In November 1936 an attempt byRepublicans to retake Vitoria was thwarted after being spotted by Nationalist reconnaissance aircraft.[11] The 1937 Nationalist campaign inVizcaya was supported by 80 German aircraft based at Vitoria,[12] where theCondor Legion fighter wing was concentrated.[13]
During theSpanish transition to democracy, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi was the scene of apolice shooting on March 3, 1976 during a peaceful labour assembly. Under the orders of Interior MinisterManuel Fraga, the police shot tear-gas into the church where 5,000 demonstrators and others had met, firing on them as they struggled their way out of the building. It resulted in five dead and over one hundred wounded by gunshot.[14][15]
On 20 May 1980, by decision of the Basque Parliament, Vitoria-Gasteiz became the place of the common institutions of theBasque Autonomous Community.
Historically, there once was aJewish community living in Vitoria, before theexpulsion of the Jews. In 1492, the year of the expulsion, the town council agreed to maintain and respect the Jewish cemetery, which became known as Judimendi, or "mountain of the Jews" inBasque. Over time, linguistically, "Judimendi" became "Judizmendi." Unique to anywhere else in Spain, the town maintained this agreement from 1492-1952, when the town undertook plans to convert Judizmendi to a public garden. The Jewish community inBayonne heard about these plans, and convinced the city government of Vitoria-Gasteiz to commemorate the memory of the cemetery.[16] In 2004, Israeli artist Yaël Artsi created the monument "Coexistence" to be displayed at Judizmendi.
In 2017, the monument was vandalized with anti-semitic graffiti twice: once in April, and once in May.[17]
In 2019, the Basque Jewish community held a ceremony to pay tribute to the city for honoring its promise to the Jews.[18]
Vitoria-Gasteiz has anoceanic climate (Köppen climate classification:Cfb). Winters are much cooler than in lowland coastal areas, whilst summers are similar in terms of high temperatures, with cool nights due to the elevation. Summers show a significant influence ofmediterranean precipitation patterns, but enough precipitation usually occurs to remain marine in nature. Sunshine levels are low by Spanish standards and the climate is humid year-round.
As of 2024, the foreign-born population of the city is 43,564, equal to 16.9% of the total population. The 5 largest foreign nationalities areColombians (8,474),Moroccans (5,365),Algerians (2,488),Venezuelans (2,145) andPeruvians (1,749).[1]
The municipality of Vitoria has subsumed a number of rural villages, which are preserved asconcejos, retaining a certain degree of administrative autonomy.[21][22]
This section needs to beupdated. Please help update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information.(July 2024)
In 2019,Gorka Urturan (EAJ-PNV), was re-elected to a four-year term as Mayor in coalition with thePSOE. The current municipal council composition is as follows:
Cathedral of Santa Maria (Old Cathedral), a 14th-century Gothic building with a 17th-century tower. Under the pórtico are three open doorways decorated with statues and reliefs. In the interior, chapels containing Gothic, Flemish and Italian Renaissance images including paintings byRubens andvan Dyck. The cathedral is undergoing restoration and has been studied by experts from around the world for its architectural curiosities, including those deformations which it has suffered due to previous restorations.
Andre Maria Zuriaren plaza/Plaza de la Virgen Blanca. It is a square to which converge some of the most typical streets of the old town and the 19th-century city expansion and is surrounded by old houses with glass verandas. At its center stands a monument commemorating the Battle of Vitoria.
Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art of Álava, located in Cathedral of María Inmaculada ambulatory, houses samples of religious art heritage of the province, divided into sections of stone carving, wood carving, painting on wood, paint on canvas, jewelry and furniture liturgical.
Church of St. Peter the Apostle (14th century) in Gothic style. TheOld Portico, with a set of reliefs depicting scenes from the lives of St. Peter and the Virgin Mary, run under the pictures of the Virgin and the apostles.
Church of the Carmen. A neoclassical temple built between 1897 and 1900.
Basilica ofSan Prudencio. Its original construction dates to the 12th century, but it was rebuilt in the 18th century. The temple houses sculptural samples from different eras and artists.
Convent of Saint Anthony. A Clares nunnery from the 17th century.
Convent of Santa Cruz. Dominican nunnery from the 17th century.
Former hospice (16th–17th centuries), originally theColegio de San Prudencio.
Old Portico, Church of San Pedro.
Casa del Cordón, an example of civil Gothic architecture. It was built in the 15th century, but has kept a tower from the 13th century. TheCatholic Monarchs stayed here, andAdrian VI was named Pope while residing here.
Basque Museum of Contemporary Art (Artium). Its permanent collection is considered one of the best and most important contemporary art in Basque and Spanish. It was inaugurated on April 26, 2002.
Museum of Natural Sciences, located in the Tower ofOtxanda Andrea, an example of medieval architecture. It is also a center for research and dissemination of Natural Sciences.
Museum of Archaeology, located in a house of wood lattice from the 16th century. The exhibition includesdolmens, Roman sculptures found in Álava, and medieval pieces.
Museum of Fine Arts, housed in aRenaissance mansion. It displays 14th-century carvings, Flemish 16th-century triptychs, panels of Spanish masters such asJusepe de Ribera and modern Spanish paintings.
Arms Museum of Álava is home to weapons from various ages, from prehistoric axes to 20th-century handguns. There is a large collection of medieval weaponry and reconstruction of theBattle of Vitoria.
Montehermoso Cultural Center, housed in restored 16th-century buildings, formerly headquarters of the Diocese of Vitoria. In 1997, with the annexation of the former water tank, the property became the Montehermoso Cultural Center, designed as a space for art exhibitions and musical performances.
Plaza de España or Plaza Nueva. A large arcaded plaza designed by the architect Antonio de Olaguibel in 1781 and designed to unite the old town with the new Story, then under construction.
TheArkupe/Arquillos. This road was built with porticoes between the 18th and 19th centuries.
Ajuria Enea, the seat of President of the Basque Government (Lehendakari) since 1980. It was built in 1918 as the main residence of the family of the local entrepreneur Serafin Ajuria, and it is a fine example of the Basque architecture of the period.
Ataria, an information and interpretation centre for the wetlands ofSalburua, an important nature park on the eastern edge of the city.
TheAndre Maria Zuriaren jaiak/Fiestas de la Virgen Blanca festival is celebrated every year from the 4th to the 9th of August in honour of the patron saint of the city, and features a programme of special events, activities and free open-air concerts.
The liberal arts section of theUniversity of the Basque Country is based in the south part of the city. Focusing on history and linguistics, the Álava campus is also home of the Faculty of Pharmacy, as well as some other technical, teaching and business related degrees. Its origins date back to 1847 when the firstEscuela Normal de Maestros de Álava was established. A number of other colleges and faculties were adopted in 1978 by the emergingUniversity of the Basque Country.
European University Gasteiz, a private initiative with a focus on health and sport sciences and new technologies, opened in 2022 in the district of Salburua, after receiving official recognition from theBasque Parliament.[26][27]
The economy of Vitoria-Gasteiz is diverse, and many manufacturing companies and logistic centers have operations there, includingMercedes-Benz,Michelin,Gamesa, andHeraclio Fournier, the latter being headquartered there.
Public transport within the city consists of acity bus service operated byTUVISA[28] (10 lines) and atram network operated byEuskotren (2 lines sharing part of the way).[29]
Vitoria-Gasteiz is well connected by road with the other Basque capitals and withMadrid. TheN-622 road connects with theAP-68 motorway towardsBilbao.[30] TheA-1 motorway from Madrid toSan Sebastián serves Vitoria-Gasteiz. Since 2009, the tolledAP-1 motorway has served as an alternative route towards San Sebastián and Burgos.[31]
TheBasque Y high-speed rail network is planned to connect Vitoria-Gasteiz with the French border,San Sebastián andBilbao within 35 minutes. However, work on this project has been slow and there is no date for its inaugural run.[34]
Vitoria Airport is 4th in Spain in cargo traffic,[35] it also offers some domestic and international passenger destinations.[36]Bilbao Airport is 50 minutes away by car; a direct bus line from Vitoria-Gasteiz went into operation in 2024.[37]
From an urban point of view, Vitoria-Gasteiz is a mid-sized city, the line of which is adapted to the traditions of each historical moment. The medieval town is set in almond-shape around the hill foundation, which by its privileged position as the only elevation in the plain of Álava, became a defensive stronghold coveted by the kingdoms of Navarre and Castilla during the 11th and 12th centuries. The walled enclosure was built prior to the war between Castile and Navarre in the 11th century to defend the village. The defensive walls of old Gasteiz were built between the years 1050 and 1100. Because of that first defensive role, its narrow streets surrounding the oval resulted in compact rows of houses parallel both to each other and the medieval walls (of which only some sections and gates are preserved). Between the years 1854 and 1856, an epidemic of cholera served as the excuse for tearing down the gates, fortresses which provided access to the streets Run (fort of Nanclares), Shoe (fort of Soto) and Blacksmith (fort of Abendaño) and which served to protect every neighbourhood association. The entrance of the currentPlaza de la Virgen Blanca was the site of Santa Clara, which was joined by the wall at the Convent of San Antonio. In the 19th century, in recognition that the city was small, an expansion was planned in the neoclassical style, and little by little planning for the city has given Vitoria-Gasteiz its current form.
The Old Quarter (Alde Zaharra/Casco Viejo), has many architectural jewels such as Bendaña Palace, the Fournier Museum of cards (erected in 1525 by Juan Lopez de Arrieta, on the site occupied before by the defensive tower built by Maeztu). The Ezkoriatza-Eskibel Palace, built by Claudio de Arciniega in the 15th century. The Villa Suso, where Martin Salinas, ambassador ofCharles V dwelt (16th century). And the greatest historical treasure of Vitoria-Gasteiz: the Cathedral of Santa Maria (Old Cathedral).
The history of the Cathedral of Santa María (commonly known asOld Cathedral), is itself a synthesis of the history of Vitoria-Gasteiz. Built on the cemetery of the primitive village of Gasteiz (which today can be accessed through the excavations), the church of Santa María collapsed with the fire of 1202 andAlfonso VIII of Castile (who had conquered the city just 2 years earlier), ordered that it be rebuilt on the site of a former church. It was now to serve two very different purposes: regular religious services and weapon storage. Thus was born the Cathedral of Santa Maria, a fortress-like church that served as the entrance to the city. The project changed with the centuries, so that each modification was made without taking into account the previous. This was the case in the 15th century (when the church became collegiate), and finally in the 1960s, when it was decided to reverse the previous works of strengthening of the external walls and widen the windows, made purely for aesthetic reasons, which had severely damaged the stability of the building. Today, the cathedral is open again, and offers visitors guided trips exposing the recent archaeological findings. It has become one of the main attractions of Vitoria-Gasteiz. Ken Follett, author of "The Pillars of the Earth", said after his stay in the city that Santa Maria was one of the three most interesting cathedrals of the world.[citation needed]
From the Middle Ages to the 18th century, the population of Vitoria-Gasteiz and the layout of its streets remained almost unchanged. And it was not until the late 18th century, when growth required the expansion of the city outside. To solve the problem of the difference in height between the original kernel on the hill, and the plain below, the arches were erected and the Plaza De España or Plaza Nueva was built, which soften the transition from the old city to the 19th century neoclassical expansion of wide streets and gardens, the greatest examples of which are seen in theLa Florida Park, and theAndre Maria Zuriaren Enparantza/Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, with its façade pulled viewpoints.
Finally, the new quarters of Vitoria-Gasteiz were built, in accordance with a development plan favouring parks, recreation areas and quality of life. While aiming to maintain the identity of the city, and drawing on the district of San Martín, the need to accommodate the growing population has led the city to concentrate its growth in the new neighbourhoods of Lakua, Salburua and Zabalgan. The city of Vitoria-Gasteiz has received several international awards for its urban development. Also worth mentioning is the green ring, a network of parks and green spaces around the city, destined to be the lung of the future Vitoria-Gasteiz, and link the city with the countryside. This ring is formed of the parks Salburua, Zabalgana, Armentia, Alegria river, Gamarra,Abetxuko and Atxa-Landaberde.
Vitoria-Gasteiz held the title ofEuropean Green Capital in 2012 due to the high proportion of green public areas, ensuring that the entire population lives within 300m of an open green space, its biodiversity and ecosystems services, as well as for the city's green policies.[38]
Deportivo Alavés,football team that won promotion toLa Liga for the 2016–17 season after finishing first inSegunda División in the previous season but returned to 2nd division in the season 2021–2022 after finishing in last position (20th). Their home matches are played in theMendizorrotza Stadium, with training facilities at theCiudad Deportiva José Luis Compañón (Ibaia) on the edge of town. It also has a women's team which plays in the first division and the home matches are played at Ibaia. Other local teams play at theBetoño Sports Complex near the city centre, whileAurrerá andCD Vitoria are based at Olaranbe, another development on the periphery.
Baskonia, one of the most successfulbasketball teams in the top professional Spanish divisionLiga Endesa with 4 league titles, winning their most recent one in 2020, also competes in the top professional European basketball divisionTurkish Airlines EuroLeague, finishing fourth in 2015–16. Home matches are played in theFernando Buesa Arena.
Araski, women's basketball team playing in the top professional Spanish leagueLiga Femenina Endesa. Home matches are played in the Polideportivo Mendizorrotza.
Each year the city hosts an Ironman triathlon, 'Ironman Vitoria-Gasteiz'.[39] The 2024 event was an Ironman Pro-Series event in which the Ironman world champion, Sam Laidlow, competed but was disqualified, having failed to serve a drafting penalty.[40] The mens race was won by Antonio Benito Lopez, of Spain.[41] The women's race was won by Kat Matthews, of the UK.[42]
Tania Lamarca (1980), rhythmic gymnast, Olympic champion with the Spanish group at the1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, and two times world champion
Estíbaliz Martínez (1980), rhythmic gymnast, Olympic champion with the Spanish group at the1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, and two times world champion
Almudena Cid (1980), rhythmic gymnast now retired, eight-time national champion; participated in four Olympic finals atAtlanta 1996,Sydney 2000,Athens 2004 andBeijing 2008, also took part in 9 world championships and 12 European championships
Lorena Guréndez (1981), rhythmic gymnast, Olympic champion with the Spanish group at the1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, and two times world champion.
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