Vagharshapat (Armenian:Վաղարշապատpronounced[vɑʁɑɾʃɑˈpɑt]) is the5th-largest city inArmenia and the most populous municipal community ofArmavir Province, located about 18 km (11 mi) west of the capitalYerevan, and 10 km (6 mi) north of the closed Turkish-Armenian border. It is commonly known asEjmiatsin (also spelledEchmiadzin orEtchmiadzin,Էջմիածին,pronounced[ɛt͡ʃʰmjɑˈt͡sin]ⓘ), which was its official name between 1945 and 1995.[3] It is still commonly used colloquially and in official bureaucracy, a case ofdual naming.[4]
According toMovses Khorenatsi, the area of Vagharshapat was known asArtimed (Արտիմէդ), derived from theancient Greek deityArtemis. Later, it was renamedAvan Vardgesi (Աւան Վարդգէսի, "Town of Vardges") orVardgesavan (Վարդգէսաւան) by Prince Vardges Manouk who rebuilt the settlement near the shores ofKasagh River, during the reign of KingOrontes I Sakavakyats of Armenia (570–560 BC). However, in his first book,Wars of Justinian, the Byzantine historianProcopius refers to the city asValashabad (Balashabad), named after kingVologases I of Armenia. The name evolved into its later form by the shift of the mediall into agh, which is common in the Armenian language.Movses Khorenatsi mentioned that the town of Vardges was entirely rebuilt and fenced by King Vagharsh I to become known asNorakaghak (Նորաքաղաք, "New City") and laterVagharshapat.
Ejmiatsin (Etchmiadzin,Ēĵmiacin) literally means "the descent of the Only-Begotten" or "the Only-Begotten descended" (fromechichnel “the descent” andmiatsin “the Only-Begotten”),[11] referring to howSt. Gregory had a vision of Jesus (the Only-Begotten Son of God) descending to the place and marking it as where Gregory should erect churches.[12][13]
The territory of ancient Vagharshapat was inhabited since the 3rd millennium BC. Many sites, such asMetsamor Castle, Shresh hill and Mokhrablur hill date back to theNeolithic period. The first written records about Vagharshapat were found in the inscriptions left by theUrartian kingRusa II (685–645 BC), where it was mentioned asKuarlini (Կուարլինի). The inscription found in the archaeological site of ancient Vagharshapat cites to a water canal opened by king Rusa II, between Ildaruni river (Hrazdan River) and the valley of Kuarlini.
According to 5th-century writerMovses Khorenatsi, the oldest name of Vagharshapat wasArtimed (Արտիմէդ), derived from theancient Greek deityArtemis. Later, it was renamedAvan Vardgesi (Աւան Վարդգէսի, "Town of Vardges") orVardgesavan (Վարդգէսաւան) after being rebuilt by princeVardges Manouk near the shores ofKasagh River, during the reign of kingOrontes I Sakavakyats of Armenia (570–560 BC).
In the first half of the 2nd century AD, under the reign of the ArmenianArsacid kingVagharsh I of Armenia (117–144), the old town of Vardgesavan was renovated and renamedVagharshapat (Վաղարշապատ). In his first bookWars of Justinian, the Byzantine historianProcopius has cited to the city asValashabad (Balashabad), named after kingValash (Balash) of Armenia. The name evolved into its later form by the shift in the medialL into aGh, which is common in the Armenian language.Movses Khorenatsi mentioned that the Town of Vardges was entirely rebuilt and fenced by king Vagharsh I to become known asNorakaghak (Նորաքաղաք, "New City") and later Vagharshapat.
Vagharshapat has served as the capital of the ArsacidKingdom of Armenia between 120 AD and 330 AD. After embracing Christianity as a state religion in Armenia in 301, Vagharshapat was gradually calledEjmiatsin (Armenian:Էջմիածին), after the name of theMother Cathedral; the seat of the Armenian Catholicosate, which is considered one of the oldest religious organizations in the world. As a spiritual centre of the entire Armenian nation, Vagharshapat has grown up rapidly and developed as an important centre of education and culture. The city was home to one of the oldest educational institutions in Armenia founded byMesrop Mashtots.
The political capital of the Armenian kingdom was transferred to the city ofDvin in 336.
Vagharshapat maintained its status as the country's most important city until the fall of the Arsacid Kingdom in 428. The city gradually lost its importance under the Persian rule, specifically when the seat of the Catholicosate was transferred toDvin in 452. However, the first manuscript library in Armenia was founded in 480 in Vagharshapat.
In 658 AD, Vagharshapat, along with the rest of the Armenian highland, was conquered by the Arabs. The city was briefly revived between the 9th and 11th centuries under theBagratidKingdom of Armenia, before being overrun by theByzantines in 1045 and later by theSeljuks in 1064.
In the middle of the 13th century, Vagharshapat became part of theIlkhanate of theMongol Empire. During the last quarter of the 14th century theAq Qoyunlu SunniOghuz Turkic tribe took over Armenia, including Vagharshapat.
Engraving of Etchmiadzin byJean Chardin, 1670sView of Etchmiadzin by Russian painter Mikhail Ivanov, 1783
The influence of Vagharshapat waned between 1045 and 1441, when the seat of the Armenian Catholicosate was transferred from theCilician city ofSis back toEtchmiadzin.
Between 1502 and 1828, Armenia became part of the Persian state under the rule ofSafavid,Afsharid andQajar dynasties, with short periods ofOttoman rule between 1578 and 1603 and later between 1722 and 1736.
In their 1833 bookEli Smith andH. G. O. Dwight described Vagharshapat, then a village, as follows: "It presents nothing but a crowded collection of mud cabins, perhaps 500 in number."[16]
Vagharshapat with Ejmiatsin Cathedral Compound from the air
Armenia enjoyed a short period of independence between 1918 and 1920 before falling to theBolshevik11th Red Army and becoming part of theSoviet Union.In 1925, the new plan of rebuilding the modern town was introduced by architectAlexander Tamanian. It was finally completed between 1939 and 1943. In 1945, the town of Vagharshapat was officially renamedEtchmiadzin by the Soviet government.
During the 1950s and 1960s, the town has witnessed a massive wave of construction, including residential buildings and industrial plants. By the end of the 1960s, the historical monuments of the town; including the religious complex of theMother See of Holy Etchmiadzin,Saint Hripsime Church,Saint Gayane Church and the surrounding area ofZvartnots Cathedral, were entirely rehabilitated.[17]
After the independence of Armenia, the town was officially renamed Vagharshapat in 1995. However, the town is still popularly known as Ejmiatsin.
In October 2018, Diana Gasparyan, who was nominated by theCivil Contract Party, was elected mayor of the city and the country's first ever female mayor.[18]
Vagharshapat is the largest satellite-city of Yerevan and the 4th largest in Armenia by population. It is located to the west of Yerevan in the basin of theKasagh River, in the northeastern extremity ofArarat plain, and very close toZvartnots International Airport.
According to Moses of Chorene'sHistory of Armenia and as a result of several archaeological researches conducted in the area, the most probable location of the ancient city of Vagharshapat is the area ofShresh Hill near Kasagh River.[19]
Shresh Hill or theKond of Ghugo, as it was called by the local population, is only 500 metres (1,600 feet) away to the northeast of modern-day Vagharshapat, on the way toOshakan. It is an artificial hill and has a diameter of 123 metres (404 feet) long. It was first excavated in 1870. In 1913 and 1928, the area was excavated by archaeologistYervand Lalayan. Large-scale excavations were conducted around the hill and the nearby sites of Metsamor and Mokhrablur between 1945 and 1950.
Historically, Vagharshapat is at the heart of theArmenian Highland, in Aragatsotn canton (Armenian: Արագածոտն գաւառAragatsotn gavar, not to be confused with the currentAragatsotn Province) ofAyrarat province, withinArmenia Major.
Vagharshapat is the largest urban community of Armavir Province. However, the population of the town has gradually declined since the collapse of the Soviet Union.
The majority of the town's population are ethnic Armenians who belong to theArmenian Apostolic Church. The regulating body of the church is theDiocese of Armavir based in the nearby town of Armavir. Between 1996 and 2014, theHoly Mother of God Church of Vagharshapat has served as the seat of the diocese. Opened in 1767 by CatholicosSimeon I, the church is located at the centre of Vagharshapat, north of theMother See of Holy Etchmiadzin.[21]
Here is a population timeline of Vagharshapat since 1830:[22]
The Mother Cathedral of Holy Etchmiadzin is found in the complex surrounded with many other structures built throughout the centuries. Most buildings are of great architectural significance, such as the old and new Pontifical Residences, the Chancellery or theDivanatoon, the Gate of KingTrdat, Alex and Marie Manoogian Treasury Museum (1982), Khrimian Museum, Yeremian Monastic cells, the old Seminary building, the Clock Tower, the Bookstore, etc.
Gevorgian Seminary is a theological college of theArmenian Apostolic Church founded by CatholicosGevork IV in 1874 within the complex of the Mother See. Apart from the Mother Cathedral, Vagharshapat is home to many other important Armenian churches and cathedrals. The Cathedral of Etchmiadzin, the Churches of Saint Hripsimé, Saint Gayane and Saint Shoghakat, and the archaeological site of Zvartnots are listed among theUNESCOWorld Heritage Sites.
In 2000, the churches of Vagharshapat, together with the nearby ruin ofZvartnots Cathedral, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Principal churches include:
Etchmiadzin Cathedral (Armenian:Մայր Տաճար Սուրբ ԷջմիածինMayr Tachar Surp Ejmiatsin) – The "Mother Cathedral" was built byGregory the Illuminator as a vaultedbasilica in 301–303, when Armenia had just adopted Christianity as a state religion,[32] making it one of the oldest churches in the world.[33] The church was repeatedly enlarged, notably in 480, 618 and 1658.
Saint Hripsime Church – The church was erected in 618 by CatholicosGomidas atop an existing mausoleum containing the remains of the martyred SaintHripsimé. According to the 17th century Armenian historianArakel of Tabriz, when the church was renovated during 1651–1653 by CatholicosPhilip I, a cross was placed on top of the roof and a small portico was added to the western side. It is one of the few churches in Armenian that remained active during theSoviet period.
Saint Gayane Church – Built in 630 by CatholicosEzra I, Saint Gayane is a three-nave, domedbasilica with an octagonaldrum resting on four internal pillars that divide the interior of the church into three. Its design remained unchanged despite partial renovations of the dome and some ceilings in 1652.
Shoghakat Church – Meaningdrop of light, Shoghakat is a single-nave domed basilica, built and completed in 1694 by prince Aghamal Sorotetsi during the period of CatholicosNahabed I. It is built with red and blacktufa stones, erected on the remains of a 6th-century basilica. The remains of a 4th-century small chapel could be seen at the southwestern end of Saint Shoghakat Church.[34]
Komitas palace of culture in VagharshapatVatche and Tamar Manoukian Manuscript Library
Vagharshapat is the cultural center of Armavir and one of the important centers of the entire republic. The Komitas Palace of Culture is operating in the town since 1957, while the Ejmiatsin National Gallery is operating since 1970.
The town is also home to a number of museums including the Vagharshapat Ethnographic Museum, Khoren Ter-Harutyunyan Museum and Gallery, Mher Abeghian Museum and Gallery, and Hovhannes Hovhannisyan House-museum. However, the most prominent museums of Vagharshapat are located within the Mother See complex, including:
Etchmiadzin Cathedral Museum opened in 1869 by CatholicosGeorge IV,
The Catholicosal Museum within the old pontifical residence orHin Veharan built in 1738–1741 and serves as Catholicosal Museum since 1968.[35]
Khrimian Museum: built and opened in 1896 by CatholicosMkrtich I of Van. It was recently renovated to become a museum of art.[36]
Alex and Marie Manoogian Treasury House: opened on 11 October 1982, designed by architectBaghdasar Arzoumanian. The museum is home to treasures of the Armenian Church throughout history.
Ruben Sevak Museum: opened in 2013 within the Ghazarapat building of the Mother See.
The Mother See is also home to the Pontifical Bookstore operating since 1962, and the *Vatche and Tamar Manoukian Manuscript Depository opened in 2012.[37][38][39]
The town celebrates the "Ejmiatsin Day" annually since 2008 in Vagharshapat on 8 October. According to the old Armenian tradition,Mesrop Mashtots brought the newly createdArmenian alphabet to Vagharshapat on 8 October 405.[40]
Saint Hripsime ChurchSaint Gayane ChurchZvartnots Cathedral
Other churchesShoghakat Church(1694) andHoly Mother of God Church(1764) were also important churches for Vagharshapat. Now inMetsamor site(4th millennium–8th century BC), statues of vishaps were built there, most of which have survived to this day.
Being located 20 km west of the capitalYerevan, Vagharshapat is connected with the capital city with public vans, locally known asmarshrutka. These vehicles used to be mainly Russian-madeGAZelle vans with 13 seats. However, they have changed since 2018. The Vagharshapat-Yerevan buses have regular trips every day from 7 am to 9 pm and cost 300 Armenian drams.[41] The route starts from the station near Echmiadzin State College after Vardges Hamazaspyan and finishes at the end ofMashtots Avenue, near toMatenadaran. Except for the Vagharshapat-Yerevan buses, taxis designed specifically for Vagharshapat-Yerevan trips also operate. Taxis start the route from the center of Vagharshapat and finish at the station near toBlue Mosque. The current rate of the Vagharshapat-Yerevan taxis is 500 Armenian drams per person. Currently, there are 2 smart bus stops in the city.
Under the Soviet rule, the town was turned into an important industrial centre. It was home to 4 major industrial firms specialized in the production of military technology. However, the productivity of the plants declined after the fall of the Soviet Union.
Currently, the industry of the town is mainly based on food-processing. The largest industrial firms of the town are the Ejmiatsin Instrument Making Factory founded in 1966, the E.P.G. Ejmiatsin Cannery founded in 1969, the Ejmiatsin Kat dairy factory founded in 1997, the Sonimol plant for grains founded in 2001, the Ejmiatsin wine brandy and vodka factory founded in 2005, and the Ekologia V.K.H. biological waste destruction plant founded in 2009.[42]
TheMachanents Touristic Centre of Vagharshapat provides a unique facility for the visitors of the town. The complex houses a cultural centre with small theatre, pub and jazz club, traditional cuisine, and a boutique hotel.[43] TheZvartnots hotel and casino complex is located at the eastern entrance of the town.
Gevorkian Theological Seminary is one of the most significant educational institutions of Armenia. Other educational institutions include theGrigor Lusavorich University and the intermediate college of vocational education.
FC Vagharshapat was the town's only football club, made its debut in theArmenian Premier League as Zvartnots Echmiadzin in 1992. However, it was dissolved in early 2006 and is currently inactive from professional football. TheEtchmiadzin Stadium located immediately to the south of the Mother See complex, is able to hold up to 3,000 spectators.
In October 2016, theFootball Federation of Armenia has launched the construction of a football academy at the southern suburb of the town, on the Vagharshapat-Margara motorway. The groundbreaking ceremony took place on 12 April 2017, was attended by PresidentSerzh Sargsyan,UEFA PresidentAleksander Čeferin and FFA President Ruben Hayrapetyan. With an approximate cost of US$2 million, the complex will occupy an area of 55,601 square metres (598,484 square feet) and is expected to be completed by October 2017. The project is being jointly financed by theFFA,UEFA andFIFA.[45][46]
A new sport school is currently under construction in Vagharshapat since 2015, with a cost of more than US$1 million. The project is due to be completed in 2019.[47]
The nearby village ofAknalich (10 km south of Vagharshapat) is famous for theAra and Aytsemnik equestrian centre.
^Ring, Trudy; Watson, Noelle; Schellinger, Paul, eds. (1994).International Dictionary of Historic Places: Middle East and Africa, Volume 4. Taylor & Francis. p. 250.The holy city of Echmiadzin, where the Christian church in Armenia first began...
^Stransky, Thomas F.; Sheerin, John B. (1982).Doing the Truth in Charity: Statements of Pope Paul VI, Popes John Paul I, John Paul II, and the Secretariat for Promoting Christian Unity, 1964-1980. Paulist Press. p. 230....from the holy city of Etchmiadzin...
^James R. Russell. Zoroastrianism in Armenia. — Harvard University Press, 1987. — P. 118.
^Emin, Gevorg (1981).Seven songs about Armenia. Progress. p. 106....Ashtarak, Artashat, Etchmiadzin and Abovian because they have become suburbs of Yerevan.
^Grigoryan, Rachik (1969).Echmiadzin. Novosti Press Agency Publishing House.Echmiadzin is the Armenian for "the descent (echichnel) of the only begotten (miatsin)"
^Zvartnots and the Origins of Christian Architecture in Armenia, W. Eugene Kleinbauer,The Art Bulletin, Vol. 54, No. 3 (September 1972): 261.
^Smith, Eli;Dwight, H. G. O. (1833).Researches of the Rev. E. Smith and Rev. H.G.O. Dwight in Armenia: Including a Journey Through Asia Minor, and into Georgia and Persia, with a Visit to the Nestorian and Chaldean Christians of Oormiah and Salmas, Volume 2. Crocker and Brewster. p. 93.
^Hakobyan, Tatul (12 March 2022)."Արմավիրի շրջանի գյուղերը 1831 թվականին" [Armavir region villages in 1831].ANI Armenian Research Center. Retrieved16 September 2022.
^Кавказский календарь на 1910 год [Caucasian calendar for 1910] (in Russian) (65th ed.). Tiflis: Tipografiya kantselyarii Ye.I.V. na Kavkaze, kazenny dom. 1910. p. 210. Archived fromthe original on 15 March 2022.
^Edwards, Robert W., "Ēĵmiacin" (2016).The Eerdmans Encyclopedia of Early Christian Art and Archaeology, ed., Paul Corby Finney. Grand Rapids, Michigan: William B. Eerdmans Publishing. pp. 455–456.ISBN978-0-8028-9016-0.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
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