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Uyghur cuisine

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Culinary traditions of the Uyghur people
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Uyghur cuisine
Uyghur name
Uyghurئۇيغۇر يېڭى يېزىقى
Transcriptions
Latin YëziqiUyghur ta'amliri
Siril YëziqiУйғур таамлири
Chinese name
Simplified Chinese维吾尔菜
Traditional Chinese維吾爾菜
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinWéiwú'ěr cài

The cuisine of theUyghur people, aTurkic ethnic group primarily inhabitingXinjiang, China, is characterized by ingredients such as roastedmutton andbeef, as well askebab andrice dishes. Traditionally, specific dishes likepolo are eaten with one's bare hands instead of with utensils likespoons,forks orchopsticks.[1] Signature dishes includepolo,laghman andnan. Because the majority of Uyghur people are Muslim, the food is predominantlyhalal.

History

[edit]
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Around the 4th century, the majority of Uyghurs led a nomadic lifestyle and therefore relied on livestock for food. Aside from their meat, dairy products made from their milk became a staple for many families. Especiallyhorse milk was widely used and consumed as horses were also held for transportation purposes. Many of the practices of this nomadic diet can still be observed in the descendants of Uyghurs who immigrated from theMongolian Plateau to theGansu Province.[citation needed]

After the Uyghurs acceptedIslam as theirstate religion in the 1060s, many adopted ahalal diet. By this time, they had shifted to anagricultural lifestyle. The area aroundHotan was regarded as especially fertile and yielded a large variety of fruits, which led to the gradual settlement of people throughout the region. With this change, the food sources were diversified and flour-based dishes, mutton, and vegetables became integral to the cuisine. TheCompendium of the Languages of the Turks from 1074, for example, lists a total of 14 types of bread made from wheat flour and we know from its descriptions that noodles, rice, millet,chöchüre (Uyghur:چۆچۈرە; a kind of dumpling soup), and sausages made from grains and meat were also commonly eaten.[2][3] Many traditional Uyghur cooking methods also date back to around this time of theKarakhan Empire.

Since theTarim Basin was located along theSilk Road, Uyghur cuisine has been influenced by variousChinese foods, seasonings, and cooking methods, such asstir-frying, which were introduced from the east after theTang dynasty. In recent years,Russian cuisine has spread to Uyghurs from countries like theKyrgyz Republic, which was once part of theSoviet Union. In addition, some people aroundTurfan have started practicingBuddhism, making vegetarian dishes more prevalent in this region.[citation needed]

In 2023, theKashgarpublic security bureau stated, "Muslim halal customs create an unbridgeable gap between Uyghur and Han people and widen the distance between them as would an invisible wall."[4]

Characteristics

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Uyghur cuisine is centered around bringing out the natural flavors of the individual ingredients used in a dish. Meals usually consist of a mix of meat and seasonal vegetables, served alongsiderice, handmadenoodles, ornan. While mutton andbeef are the most commonly used meats,chicken andgoose are also served often, and sometimes evenpigeon is eaten.[3]Onions,carrots,potatoes,tomatoes,peppers,Chinese cabbage, andeggplant are frequently utilized in cooking as they are native to the Xinjiang area and therefore readily available most of the year.[3]

Typical spices includesalt,black pepper,cumin seeds, andred pepper flakes.[3] Red pepper flakes are used to makelaza (Лаза), a chili sauce made withgarlic and hot oil and commonly served withläghmän orbenschä, Uyghur-style dumplings.Animal fats andbutter are also used for flavoring dishes.[3]

Unlike manyAsian ethnic groups, Uyghur people are typically notlactose-intolerant and dairy products such askumis (Uyghur:قىمىز; ahorse milk drink),[3]ayran, andyogurt are therefore consumed frequently.[5]

As the majority of Uyghur people are Muslim, their food shares similarities to that of other Muslim peoples inAsia, such asUzbeks,Kazakhs, andTurks. Similarly, many Uyghur dishes can also be found among other ethnic groups in Central Asia.[6]A traditional Uyghur-style breakfast might consist ofnan and milk tea,[3] which might be topped withjams orhoney and eaten withraisins,walnuts, and othernuts.

Guests are greeted with tea,nan, pastries, and fruits before the main dishes are ready.[citation needed]

Dishes

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Main course

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Uyghurläghmän (لەڭمەن)

A common Uyghur dish isläghmän (Uyghur:لەڭمەن,ләғмән;Chinese:手拉麵;pinyin:shǒu lāmiàn), boiled hand-pulled noodles made with wheat flour and eaten withsäy, a stir-fried topping usually made with mutton, onions, peppers, tomatoes,[7] and other seasonal vegetables.[8] The dish was most likely derived from the Chineselamian[9][10] and adapted to create a distinctively Uyghur flavor.Naren chöp (Uyghur:چۆپ نارىن) is a different noodle dish that is topped with a thin sauce of lamb, onions, and carrot and seasoned with a large amount of black orwhite pepper.

Uyghurpolo (پولۇ)

Another typical Uyghur dish ispolo (Uyghur:پولۇ,полу;Chinese:抓飯;pinyin:zhuāfàn), a variation ofpilaf, a dish that can be found throughoutCentral Asia. It is made by frying mutton or chicken, onions, and thinly sliced carrots in oil before adding rice and water and steaming it.Raisins anddried apricots may also be added.[6] While it is traditionally made in acast-iron pan,[6] nowadays it is often transferred to arice cooker for steaming. To balance out the oiliness of thepolo, it is commonly served withsalad or coldvermicelli noodles with raw vegetables (pintoza ham säy;lit.'vermicelli noodles and raw vegetables'). A simple dish of steamedwhite rice with stir-fried vegetables is calledgangpen (Uyghur:گاڭپەن;Chinese:干飯;pinyin:gānfàn).

Shorba

There are also many varieties of soups, the most popular ones beingshorpa (Uyghur:شورپا,Шорпа;Chinese:羊汤;pinyin:yáng tāng), a lamb soup, andsuykash (Uyghur:سۇيۇقئاش,lit.'liquid food'), a type of soup made with noodles, meat, and vegetables such as potatoes andturnips. A special kind ofsuykash istashlap suykash (lit.'thrown liquid food', which contains handmade noodles that are pulled and then ripped into small, thumb-size pieces and thrown into the boiling soup. There are alsostews likeyapma (Uyghur:ياپمانان), which is made with lamb or beef, onions, potatoes, carrots, and tomatoes.

Like in manyEast andSoutheast Asian countries,congee is also eaten by the Uyghur people, which is calledshoyla (Uyghur:شويلا) in Uyghur. Aside from congee, there is alsoumaq,corn porridge made withcorn flour, onion, turnips, and tomatoes and seasoned with salt.[3]

A dish that has been adapted fromChinese andRussian cuisine ismanta ((Uyghur:مانتا), a steameddumpling filled with meat and Chinese cabbage orspinach. There are many varieties of this dish:pitir-manta (Uyghur:پەتىل مانتا), which features a thinner wrapper and may also containzucchini orpumpkin;boluq manta (Uyghur:بولۇق مانتا), which uses a significantly thicker, yeasted dough;benschä, a smaller version that is boiled in water instead of steamed; andchöchüre, which are shaped liketortellini and are served in a tomato-based soup broth.[3]

Meat

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Kawaplar (lamb kebabs)

Meat is a main ingredient in many Uyghur dishes. The most well-known meat dish arekawaplar (Uyghur:كاۋاپلار,каваплар), which arekebabs made from lamb or beef and seasoned with salt, black pepper,chili powder, andcumin and directly eaten off theskewer. While usually made on agrill and sold in food stalls on the road, there are alsotunur kawap (Chinese:饢坑肉;pinyin:náng kēng ròu), which are made in atunur clay oven.

A plate ofdapanji, as served inÜrümqi

A dish that gained popularity in the mid to late 1990s isdapanji (Uyghur:دَاپًا کِ;Chinese:大盤雞;pinyin:dàpánjī) orchong texse toxu qorumis (Uyghur:чоң тәхсә тоху қорумиси,lit.'big plate chicken'), a Chinese-Uyghur fusion dish. A spicy, hot chicken stew is served on a big plate and after the chicken has been eaten, flat, hand-pulled noodles are added to the remaining sauce. The dish was invented inShawan,Northern Xinjiang by a migrant fromSichuan who mixed hot chili peppers with chicken and potatoes in an attempt to reproduce aSichuan taste.[11]

Bread

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Uyghurnan (نان)

Nan (Uyghur:نان,нан;Chinese:;pinyin:náng) is one of the oldest components of Uyghur cuisine[3] and an integral part of the diet. While it is often mistaken as a specific type of bread, it is merely a generic term. The most common style ofnan ishemek nan, a baked flatbread with a thicker crust made with wheat flour, salt, water, andvegetable oil and optionally topped withsesame orblack cumin seeds. Another popular type of bread isgirde (Гирде), which is a thick, bagel-shaped bread with a hard and crispy crust that resemblesbialy.[12]Toqatch nan (Uyghur:توقاچ نان), which is baked in a deep clay oven called atunur (Uyghur:تونۇر), is also a staple in many households.

Qatlama

There are alsosteamed breads such asyutaza (Uyghur:يۇتازا,йутаза;Chinese:油塔子;pinyin:yóutiáozi), which is a multi-layered type of bread made with animal fat. A style of yeasted fried bread calledpeushkel (Uyghur:پۆشكەل) is typically eaten with soups and stews. A multi-layered, thin, pan-fried bread calledqatlima (Uyghur:قاتلىما) is usually prepared using leftover dough from other dishes.

Uyghursamsa (سامسا)

Aside fromnan, there are also many types of filled bread such assamsa (Uyghur:سامسا,Самса;Chinese:烤包子;pinyin:kǎo bāozi), which are hand-held lamb pies roasted in atunur.[13] A flat, pan-grilled variety with a similar filling is calledgöshnan (Uyghur:گۆشنان,Гөшнан;Chinese:饢包肉;pinyin:náng bāo ròu). Aside from lamb, bakedpamirdin pies also stuffed with onions and carrots.[13][14]Sambusa (Uyghur:سامبۇسا) are fried Uyghurempanada filled with meat, rice, and carrots.

Desserts

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The most common flavors in Uyghur desserts arehoney,nuts,raisins, and sultanas.Bakkali (Uyghur:باققالى), a light and moist nut cake made with honey andwalnuts, is a popular traditional dessert. Aside from walnuts, other types of nuts or raisins may be used as well. Soft cookies calledpichene (Uyghur:پېچىنە), which are made with plain, sweet dough, cut into shapes, and brushed withegg yolks, are commonly eaten with tea.

There is also a large scope of fried desserts.Eshme quymaq (Uyghur:ئەشمە قۇيماق) ormaxar (Uyghur:ماخار;Chinese:麻花児;pinyin:máhuār) are twisted doughnuts, which are widely sold by street vendors. They are often made from two separate doughs: one sweetened with honey and the other withsugar. The honey dough takes on a deeper color while frying, giving the doughnuts a dual-colored appearance. Another street snack ismatang, a thick and chewy bar consisting of various nuts held together by a sugarsyrup that is usually sold by the slice.[15]

A holiday specialty issangza (Uyghur:ساڭزا,Саңза;Chinese:馓子;pinyin:sǎnzi), a snack made by pulling a dough made of wheat flour into thin ropes and deep frying them. The crispy ropes are then twisted around each other and piled high on top of each other.

Halva

Halva (Uyghur:ھالۋا) is a sweet porridge made with corn flour and cooked with chopped onions, turnips, and tomatoes.[3] It is also often eaten during sickness as the sweet stickiness of the porridge coats the throat and alleviates soreness.

A sweet version ofmanta calledsheker manta (Uyghur:شېكەر مانتا,lit.'sugar manta') is often given as a treat to children. They are stuffed with walnuts and honey orbrown sugar, the latter of which melts during steaming, soaking the inside of the dumpling in a thick, sweet syrup.

Fruits are also an important component of the Uyghur diet and are eaten as snacks with or in-between meals. Commonly eaten fruits include grapes, apples, watermelons,apricots, andfigs.[3]

Beverages

[edit]
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Kvass served in a restaurant inÜrümqi

In Uyghur custom,tea (chay,Uyghur:چاي) is drunk multiple times throughout the day and at least with every meal. Tea is held in high regard as it is believed to havetherapeutic properties and to help cure illnesses and is often hailed as a universalmedicine (chay dora,Uyghur:چاي دورا,lit.'tea medicine') by Uyghurs.[16] It also plays an important role in many ceremonies and is seen as an indispensable part of goodcustomer service and for successfulbusinessnegotiations. Other medicinal teas made from herbs and processed plants such ascinnamon,cloves,cumin,black pepper, andginger are also believed to help withstomach aches anddigestive issues, as well as promoteblood circulation,heat retention in the body, andalertness.

Whilegreen tea is more popular with theHan Chinese, Uyghurs preferblack tea (qara chai,Uyghur:قارا چاي), which is often drunk withmilk to makesüt chay (Uyghur:شۈت چاي,lit.'milk tea').[16] Other commonly consumed teas includered tea (xish chay,Uyghur:خىش چاي) andetken chay (Uyghur:ئەتكەنچاي,әткәнчай)).Etken chay is a type ofmilk tea that has travelled fromIndia toChina via theSilk Road. It is made by boiling an equal amount of black tea and milk together and addingsalt. Sometimes,butter,sour cream, or variousspices are added. The tea is typically served withcake and in abowl, although typicallytea cups are used for other types of tea. The tea may havesesame seeds sprinkled on top.

Kumis

Milk-based drinks are popular as well.Raxap (Uyghur:راخاپ) is a type ofdrinkable yogurt, whereasdoghap (Uyghur:دوغاپ) is a chilled version of a similar drink.Ayran (Uyghur:ئايران), a salty yogurt-based drink that is especially popular inTurkey, can also be found in Uyghur communities. A slightly alcoholic variation iskumis (Uyghur:قىمىز), which is made from fermentedhorse milk and dates all the way back to the 11th century, where it was first mentioned in theDīwān Lughāt al-Turk.

Due to the warm climate inXinjiang, the area is highly suited forfermentation, which popularizedalcoholic beverages in the area. The most popularbeer brands areWusu, a subsidiary label of theCarlsberg Group which is produced in Xinjiang and is known for having a higheralcohol content than regular Chinese beers,[17] and Sinkiang Black Beer, a nuttyblack beer made to complement the typical flavors found in Uyghur dishes.[18]

Since Xinjiang is known for its grapes and vineyards, wine is also one of its strongest products. EspeciallyTurfan has been an important part of the local economy and has been well known for its wine since theTang dynasty.[19] Their medicinal liquor calledmuseles (Uyghur:مۇسەللەش) is made from pickling sliceddeerantler,saffron,cardamom, and other spices in wine, infusing it with said flavors. The wine is produced commercially and is also exported outside of the region.[20] Another variety of fruit wine is calledsharap (Uyghur:شاراپ).

Kvass (Uyghur:كۇۋاس,квас), a slightlycarbonated low-alcoholsoft drink made ofcereal is consumed by Uyghurs as well. It may be flavored with berries, fruits, herbs, or honey.

Influence

[edit]
Dining room of a Uyghur restaurant inTokyo, Japan

Uyghur restaurants can be found in most mid-sized to large cities acrossChina and is a popular ethnic cuisine there. Uyghur shops often sellnan at the counter, which is often bought byHan Chinese people for breakfast. Another popular dish iskawaplar, which is widely available at food stalls in many places. Uyghur restaurants in China are usuallyqingzhen (Chinese:清真;pinyin:qīngzhēn) certified, which is another term forhalal.[16]

Through franchising, Uyghur cuisine has also found its way outside of China. TheOld Mandarin Islamic Restaurant inSan Francisco opened in 1997.[21] In April 2015, the restaurant chain Herembağ (Uyghur:ھەرەمباغ,Һәрәмбағ;Chinese:海爾巴格;pinyin:Hǎi'ěr bā gé) opened its first store in San Francisco in theUnited States and later expanded with ten more locations withinNorth America.[22] Other popular franchises that service Uyghur food include Yershari, Loulan, Tarhar, and Ali Jiang.

In Japan, Uyghur cuisine is available at specialty restaurants inSakura-ku,Saitama,Saitama Prefecture, andShinjuku,Tokyo. In its September 2010 issue, the outdoor magazine BE-PAL describedläghmän as usingpork instead of mutton[23] and subsequently had to issue an apology for their mistake in November 2010.[24]

See also

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References

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  1. ^"Xinjiang Cuisine".All-China Women's Federation. 10 April 2006. Archived fromthe original on 1 September 2009. Retrieved24 November 2010.
  2. ^Ahmeti Sulayman Kutluk; Elkhen Idilis (2009).喀喇汗王朝時期維吾尔族的飲食文化 [The Culinary Culture of the Uyghurs during the Karakhan Dynasty].Xinjiang University Journal: Philosophy, Humanities and Social Sciences (in Chinese) (6):60–63.
  3. ^abcdefghijklAyixiamuguli Ayoufu; Degang Yang; Dilshat Yimit (2017). "Uyghur food culture".Asia Pacific Journal of Clinical Nutrition.26 (5):764–768.doi:10.6133/apjcn.042016.12.PMID 28802283.
  4. ^Grose, Timothy (13 May 2024)."Beijing's Culinary Crusade: Erasing Uyghur Identity through Food".ChinaFile.Asia Society. Retrieved14 May 2024.
  5. ^G. Randall McNamara (2022)."Uyghur Cuisine and Identity: An Historical Overview of a Discreet Diaspora".Dublin Gastronomy Symposium:189–194.doi:10.21427/fcec-7k92. Retrieved20 March 2023.
  6. ^abcM. Cristina Cesàro (2007)."Chapter 10.Polo,läghmän,So Säy: Situating Uyghur Food Between Central Asia and China".Situating the Uyghurs Between China and Central Asia. Aldershot, Hampshire:Ashgate Publishing, Ltd. pp. 190–192.ISBN 978-0-7546-7041-4. Retrieved30 July 2010.
  7. ^Rachel Harris (2004)."Chapter One: Sibe History and Society".Singing the Village: Music, Memory and Ritual Among the Sibe of Xinjiang. New York:Oxford University Press, Inc. p. 45.ISBN 978-0-19-726297-9. Retrieved19 March 2023.
  8. ^M. Cristina Cesàro (2007)."Chapter 10.Polo,läghmän,So Säy: Situating Uyghur Food Between Central Asia and China".Situating the Uyghurs Between China and Central Asia. Aldershot, Hampshire:Ashgate Publishing, Ltd. pp. 192–193.ISBN 978-0-7546-7041-4. Retrieved30 July 2010.
  9. ^Q. Edward Wang (2015)."Chapter 3. Dish, rice or noodle? The changing use of chopsticks".Chopsticks: A Cultural and Culinary History. Cambridge:Cambridge University Press. p. 55.ISBN 978-1-316-19436-2.
  10. ^Mongolia & Inner Asia Studies Unit, University of Cambridge; Brill Academic Publishers (2000).Inner Asia. Vol. 2. The White Horse Press. p. 235.
  11. ^M. Cristina Cesàro (2007)."Chapter 10.Polo,läghmän,So Säy: Situating Uyghur Food Between Central Asia and China".Situating the Uyghurs Between China and Central Asia. Aldershot, Hampshire:Ashgate Publishing, Ltd. pp. 197–198.ISBN 978-0-7546-7041-4. Retrieved30 July 2010.
  12. ^Fiona Reilly (30 October 2019)."Dispatches From the Silk Road: The Must-Try Uyghur Food of Kashgar".Serious Eats. Retrieved20 March 2023.
  13. ^abJames B. Minahan (2010).The Complete Guide to National Symbols and Emblems [2 volumes]. Santa Barbara, California:Greenwood Press. p. 45.ISBN 978-0-313-34496-1. Retrieved17 May 2021.
  14. ^Eddie Lin (15 May 2013)."This is Food from the Edge of China: Uyghur Cuisine at Silk Road Garden in Rowland Heights".Los Angeles.Archived from the original on 17 May 2021. Retrieved17 May 2021.
  15. ^Josh Summers (20 March 2016)."Top 10 Uyghur Foods to Eat in Xinjiang".Far West China. Retrieved20 March 2023.
  16. ^abcM. Cristina Cesàro (2000)."Consuming Identities: Food and Resistance among the Uyghur in Contemporary Xinjiang".Inner Asia. Special Issue: Xinjiang. Vol. 2. Cambridge: The White Horse Press. pp. 225–238.JSTOR 23615558. Retrieved20 March 2023.{{cite book}}:|journal= ignored (help)
  17. ^Victoria White (20 April 2015)."Carlsberg takes full ownership of Wusu Beer Group".New Food Magazine. Retrieved22 March 2023.
  18. ^Kathy Vitale (25 July 2017)."18 drinks China can't live without".CNN Travel.CNN. Retrieved24 November 2010.
  19. ^Abdurishid Yakup (2005).The Turfan Dialect of Uyghur. Wiesbaden:Harrassowitz Verlag. pp. 160–162.ISBN 978-3-447-05233-7. Retrieved22 March 2023.
  20. ^AFP (4 June 2015)."Grapes of Wrath: Muslim wine ferments divisions in China".The Express Tribune. Retrieved24 November 2010.
  21. ^"The History Of San Francisco's Chinatown In 10 Dishes".Food Republic. 10 June 2015. Retrieved13 August 2023.
  22. ^Darren Byler (31 October 2015)."The Uyghur Restaurant Chain Herembağ comes to America".The Art of Life in Chinese Central Asia. Retrieved19 March 2023.
  23. ^"Untitled".BE-PAL (in Japanese). No. 353.Shogakukan. 1 September 2010. pp. 148–150.
  24. ^"Untitled".BE-PAL (in Japanese). No. 356.Shogakukan. 1 November 2010. pp. 148–150.
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