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Ursell number

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Dimensionless number describing nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer
Wave characteristics

Influid dynamics, theUrsell number indicates thenonlinearity of longsurface gravity waves on afluid layer. Thisdimensionless parameter is named afterFritz Ursell, who discussed its significance in 1953.[1]

The Ursell number is derived from theStokes wave expansion, aperturbation series for nonlinearperiodic waves, in the long-wavelimit ofshallow water – when thewavelength is much larger than the water depth. Then the Ursell numberU is defined as:

U=Hh(λh)2=Hλ2h3,{\displaystyle U={\frac {H}{h}}\left({\frac {\lambda }{h}}\right)^{2}\,=\,{\frac {H\,\lambda ^{2}}{h^{3}}},}

which is, apart from a constant 3 / (32 π2), the ratio of theamplitudes of the second-order to the first-order term in thefree surface elevation.[2]The used parameters are:

  • H : thewave height,i.e. the difference between the elevations of the wavecrest andtrough,
  • h : the mean water depth, and
  • λ : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth,λh.

So the Ursell parameterU is the relative wave heightH /h times the relative wavelengthλ /h squared.

For long waves (λh) with small Ursell number,U ≪ 32 π2 / 3 ≈ 100,[3] linear wave theory is applicable. Otherwise (and most often) a non-linear theory for fairly long waves (λ > 7 h)[4] – like theKorteweg–de Vries equation orBoussinesq equations – has to be used.The parameter, with different normalisation, was already introduced byGeorge Gabriel Stokes in his historical paper on surface gravity waves of 1847.[5]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Ursell, F (1953). "The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves".Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society.49 (4):685–694.Bibcode:1953PCPS...49..685U.doi:10.1017/S0305004100028887.S2CID 121889662.
  2. ^Dingemans (1997), Part 1, §2.8.1, pp. 182–184.
  3. ^This factor is due to the neglected constant in the amplitude ratio of the second-order to first-order terms in the Stokes' wave expansion. See Dingemans (1997), p. 179 & 182.
  4. ^Dingemans (1997), Part 2, pp. 473 & 516.
  5. ^Stokes, G. G. (1847). "On the theory of oscillatory waves".Transactions of the Cambridge Philosophical Society.8:441–455.
    Reprinted in:Stokes, G. G. (1880).Mathematical and Physical Papers, Volume I. Cambridge University Press. pp. 197–229.

References

[edit]
  • Dingemans, M. W. (1997).Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 13. World Scientific. p. 25769.ISBN 978-981-02-0427-3. In 2 parts, 967 pages.
  • Svendsen, I. A. (2006).Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 24. Singapore: World Scientific.ISBN 978-981-256-142-8. 722 pages.
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