which is, apart from a constant 3 / (32 π2), the ratio of theamplitudes of the second-order to the first-order term in thefree surface elevation.[2]The used parameters are:
H : thewave height,i.e. the difference between the elevations of the wavecrest andtrough,
h : the mean water depth, and
λ : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth,λ ≫h.
So the Ursell parameterU is the relative wave heightH /h times the relative wavelengthλ /h squared.
For long waves (λ ≫h) with small Ursell number,U ≪ 32 π2 / 3 ≈ 100,[3] linear wave theory is applicable. Otherwise (and most often) a non-linear theory for fairly long waves (λ > 7 h)[4] – like theKorteweg–de Vries equation orBoussinesq equations – has to be used.The parameter, with different normalisation, was already introduced byGeorge Gabriel Stokes in his historical paper on surface gravity waves of 1847.[5]
^This factor is due to the neglected constant in the amplitude ratio of the second-order to first-order terms in the Stokes' wave expansion. See Dingemans (1997), p. 179 & 182.
^Stokes, G. G. (1847). "On the theory of oscillatory waves".Transactions of the Cambridge Philosophical Society.8:441–455. Reprinted in:Stokes, G. G. (1880).Mathematical and Physical Papers, Volume I. Cambridge University Press. pp. 197–229.
Dingemans, M. W. (1997).Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 13. World Scientific. p. 25769.ISBN978-981-02-0427-3. In 2 parts, 967 pages.
Svendsen, I. A. (2006).Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 24. Singapore: World Scientific.ISBN978-981-256-142-8. 722 pages.