 | All of this article'slisted sourcesmay not bereliable. Please help improve this article by looking for better, more reliable sources. Unreliable citations may be challenged and removed.(October 2024) (Learn how and when to remove this message) |
 | |
| Type | Art fabric |
|---|---|
| Material | Silk andcotton |
| Place of origin | Indonesia (North Sumatra) |
Ulos is the traditionaltenun fabric of theBatak people ofNorth Sumatra inIndonesia.[1] The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand-woven. With increasing modernization, ulos lost its significance.[2]
In traditional marriage ceremony, the ulos is given by the bride's parents to the groom's mother as ulospargomgom.[3][4]
According to the Batak people, there are three sources of warmth for humans: Sun, Fire, and Ulos. They created something that could give them warmth, also believed to be able to give the men bravery and the women strength against infertility. At first, Ulos was only used as an ordinary cloth, but it later developed into a symbol of love and traditional ceremony requirements.[5]
There are many kinds and motifs of ulos. If ulos is used by a man, the upper part of it is calledande-ande, the lower calledsingkot, and the one used on the head is calledtali-tali, orbulang-bulang. Ulos Jugja, Sadum, Ragidup, and Runjat are only used on some occasions.[5]
When Ulos is used by a female, the bottom is calledhaen, the back is calledhoba-hoba, and if it is used as a scarf, it is calledampe-ampe; if used as a head cover, it is calledsaong; and if used to carry a baby, it is calledparompa. The females usually wear a black long dress and head cover.[2]Siabithonon (worn on the body as a shirt or sarong) ulos are ragidup, sibolang, runjat, and jobit.Sihadanghononton (used as head cover) ulos are sirara, sumbat, bolean, mangiring, surisuri, and sadum.Sitalitalihononton (to be tied at the hip) ulos are tumtuman, mangiring, and padangrusa.[2][6]
Ulos as a love symbol is calledmangulosi. In Batak culture,mangulosi (giving ulos) is a symbol of love to the receiver. There are common rules:mangulosi can only be done by people who have a family relationship or to give it to lower social status people. For example, parents canmangulosi their children, but not the opposite.[7] Tomangulosi a child who gives birth to their first child, the ulos given isragidup sinagok. Ulos given to a special guest is ulosragidup silingo.[6]
Ulos is made with a manualloom machine. A spinner (Sorha) is used to make cotton into yards. Palabuan (periuk tanah, anearthenware pot) is used to save coloring water. Ulos are made ofcotton.[2]
