Inclimbing, aTyrolean traverse is atechnique that enables climbers to cross a void between two fixed points, such as between a headland and a detached rock pillar (e.g. asea stack), or between two points that enable the climbers to cross over an obstacle such as chasm or ravine, or over a fast moving river.[1] Originally developed byTyrolean mountaineers in theDolomites in the late 19th to early 20th century,[2] Tyrolean traverses are used in other areas including incaving and inmountain rescue situations.[3]
With a traverse-rope fixed between twoanchor points — ideally under some tension — the climber attaches to the rope using a shortquickdraw (or equivalent alternative) that is attached to theirharness. A backup attachment loop usingcarabiners andslings is also recommended. Any backpacks are separately clipped to the rope and also clipped to the climber, so they can be dragged across. The climber lies horizontal to the rope with their head facing the direction of travel and moves by pulling hand-over-hand on the rope. Devices such asascenders can help pull along the rope,pulleys can help reduce friction, andprogress capture devices (PCDs) can prevent slippage back along the rope.[1][4]
Where there is no pre-existing traverse-rope fixed in place, the climbers will have to set one up which typically requires making two stronganchor points and having a staticabseiling rope that will need to be more than twice the length of the void between the two anchors so they can retrieve the rope on completing the traverse (or they can tie two ropes together if needed to get to his length).[4] Ideally the two sides are level, however, where the destination is at a much lower level (i.e. it is more akin to azip line), then the climbers may use a separateabseil rope to control their descent speed. Conversely, if the destination is at a higher level, then the climbers will need devices such as ascenders,aiders, and PCDs to help in hauling themselves up the traverse-rope (i.e. in the manner of 'jumaring' on afixed rope).[4]
Notable Tyrolean traverses in climbing include the crossing to theLost Arrow Spire inYosemite,[5] the crossing to theOld Man of Stoer inScotland,[6] and the crossing to theTotem Pole in Tasmania.[7] TheGuinness World Records lists the longest Tyrolean traverse as being the 1,500-metre (4,900 ft) crossing between theMalyovitsa andOrlovets mountain summits in Bulgaria that was made by Daniel Stefanov in 2008,[8] and the longest Tyrolean traverse over alava lake being the 100.58-metre (330.0 ft) crossing ofErta Ale in Ethiopia by Karina Oliani in 2017.[9] A fatal accident while conducting a Tyrolean traverse features prominently in the opening scene of the 1993Sylvester Stallone Hollywood blockbuster filmCliffhanger.[10][11]
Tyrolean traverse: To haul oneself (while clipped in) horizontally along a line fixed between two fixed points, such as two adjacent spires or river banks. Origin: This was an early twentieth - century technique that, ..... , emerged from the Eastern Alps (in this case, the Tyrol region).
Cliffhanger.
