Movatterモバイル変換


[0]ホーム

URL:


Jump to content
WikipediaThe Free Encyclopedia
Search

Trochoidal wave

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Solution of Euler equations
Surface elevation of a trochoidal wave (deep blue) propagating to the right. The trajectories offree surface particles are close circles (in cyan), and theflow velocity is shown in red, for the black particles. Thewave height – difference between the crest and trough elevation – is denoted asH{\displaystyle H}, thewavelength asλ{\displaystyle \lambda } and the phase speed asc.{\displaystyle c.}

Influid dynamics, atrochoidal wave orGerstner wave is an exact solution of theEuler equations forperiodicsurface gravity waves. It describes aprogressive wave of permanent form on the surface of anincompressible fluid of infinite depth. The free surface of this wave solution is an inverted (upside-down)trochoid – with sharpercrests and flat troughs. This wave solution was discovered byGerstner in 1802, and rediscovered independently byRankine in 1863.

The flow field associated with the trochoidal wave is notirrotational: it hasvorticity. The vorticity is of such a specific strength and vertical distribution that the trajectories of thefluid parcels are closed circles. This is in contrast with the usual experimental observation ofStokes drift associated with the wave motion. Also thephase speed is independent of the trochoidal wave'samplitude, unlike other nonlinear wave-theories (like those of theStokes wave andcnoidal wave) and observations. For these reasons – as well as for the fact that solutions for finite fluid depth are lacking – trochoidal waves are of limited use for engineering applications.

Incomputer graphics, therendering of realistic-lookingocean waves can be done by use of so-calledGerstner waves. This is a multi-component and multi-directional extension of the traditional Gerstner wave, often usingfast Fourier transforms to make (real-time)animation feasible.[1]

Description of classical trochoidal wave

[edit]
Vector contributions from the gravitational force (medium gray) and the gradient of the pressure (black) come together in an amazing way to produce the uniform circular motion of the fluid particles. For uniform circular motion, the net force (light gray) has constant magnitude and always points towards the center of the circle. The fluid particles are colored according to theirb{\displaystyle b} values. Since the pressure is a function only ofb{\displaystyle b}, the animation illustrates how the pressure gradient vectors are always perpendicular to the color bands, and their magnitudes are larger when the color bands are closer together.

Using aLagrangian specification of the flow field, the motion of fluid parcels is – for aperiodic wave on the surface of a fluid layer of infinite depth:[2]X(a,b,t)=a+ekbksin(k(a+ct)),Y(a,b,t)=bekbkcos(k(a+ct)),{\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}X(a,b,t)&=a+{\frac {e^{kb}}{k}}\sin \left(k(a+ct)\right),\\Y(a,b,t)&=b-{\frac {e^{kb}}{k}}\cos \left(k(a+ct)\right),\end{aligned}}}wherex=X(a,b,t){\displaystyle x=X(a,b,t)} andy=Y(a,b,t){\displaystyle y=Y(a,b,t)} are the positions of the fluid parcels in the(x,y){\displaystyle (x,y)} plane at timet{\displaystyle t}, withx{\displaystyle x} the horizontal coordinate andy{\displaystyle y} the vertical coordinate (positive upward, in the direction opposing gravity). The Lagrangian coordinates(a,b){\displaystyle (a,b)} label the fluid parcels, with(x,y)=(a,b){\displaystyle (x,y)=(a,b)} the centres of the circular orbits – around which the corresponding fluid parcel moves with constantspeedcexp(kb).{\displaystyle c\,\exp(kb).} Furtherk=2π/λ{\textstyle k=2\pi /\lambda } is thewavenumber (andλ{\displaystyle \lambda } thewavelength), whilec{\displaystyle c} is the phase speed with which the wave propagates in thex{\displaystyle x}-direction. The phase speed satisfies thedispersion relation:c2=gk,{\displaystyle c^{2}={\frac {g}{k}},}which is independent of the wave nonlinearity (i.e. does not depend on the wave heightH{\displaystyle H}), and this phase speedc{\displaystyle c} the same as forAiry's linear waves in deep water.

The free surface is a line of constant pressure, and is found to correspond with a lineb=bs{\displaystyle b=b_{s}}, wherebs{\displaystyle b_{s}} is a (nonpositive) constant. Forbs=0{\displaystyle b_{s}=0} the highest waves occur, with acusp-shaped crest. Note that the highest (irrotational)Stokes wave has acrest angle of 120°, instead of the 0° for the rotational trochoidal wave.[3]

Thewave height of the trochoidal wave isH=2kexp(kbs).{\textstyle H={\frac {2}{k}}\exp(kb_{s}).} The wave is periodic in thex{\displaystyle x}-direction, with wavelengthλ;{\displaystyle \lambda ;} and also periodic in time withperiodT=λ/c=2πλ/g.{\textstyle T=\lambda /c={\sqrt {2\pi \lambda /g}}.}

Thevorticityϖ{\displaystyle \varpi } under the trochoidal wave is:[2]ϖ(a,b,t)=2kce2kb1e2kb,{\displaystyle \varpi (a,b,t)=-{\frac {2kce^{2kb}}{1-e^{2kb}}},}varying with Lagrangian elevationb{\displaystyle b} and diminishing rapidly with depth below the free surface.

In computer graphics

[edit]
Animation (5 MB) ofswell waves using multi-directional and multi-component Gerstner waves for the simulation of the ocean surface andPOV-Ray for the3D rendering. (The animation is periodic in time; it can be set to loop after right-clicking on it while it is playing).

A multi-component and multi-directional extension of theLagrangian description of the free-surface motion – as used in Gerstner's trochoidal wave – is used incomputer graphics for the simulation of ocean waves.[1] For the classical Gerstner wave the fluid motion exactly satisfies thenonlinear,incompressible andinviscid flow equations below the free surface. However, the extended Gerstner waves do in general not satisfy these flow equations exactly (although they satisfy them approximately, i.e. for the linearised Lagrangian description bypotential flow). This description of the ocean can be programmed very efficiently by use of thefast Fourier transform (FFT). Moreover, the resulting ocean waves from this process look realistic, as a result of the nonlinear deformation of the free surface (due to the Lagrangian specification of the motion): sharpercrests and flattertroughs.

The mathematical description of the free-surface in these Gerstner waves can be as follows:[1] the horizontal coordinates are denoted asx{\displaystyle x} andz{\displaystyle z}, and the vertical coordinate isy{\displaystyle y}. Themean level of the free surface is aty=0{\displaystyle y=0} and the positivey{\displaystyle y}-direction is upward, opposing theEarth's gravity of strengthg.{\displaystyle g.} The free surface is describedparametrically as a function of the parametersα{\displaystyle \alpha } andβ,{\displaystyle \beta ,} as well as of timet.{\displaystyle t.} The parameters are connected to the mean-surface points(x,y,z)=(α,0,β){\displaystyle (x,y,z)=(\alpha ,0,\beta )} around which thefluid parcels at the wavy surface orbit. The free surface is specified throughx=ξ(α,β,t),{\displaystyle x=\xi (\alpha ,\beta ,t),}y=ζ(α,β,t){\displaystyle y=\zeta (\alpha ,\beta ,t)} andz=η(α,β,t){\displaystyle z=\eta (\alpha ,\beta ,t)} with:ξ=αm=1Mkx,mkmamtanh(kmh)sin(θm),η=βm=1Mkz,mkmamtanh(kmh)sin(θm),ζ=m=1Mamcos(θm),θm=kx,mα+kz,mβωmtϕm,{\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}\xi &=\alpha -\sum _{m=1}^{M}{\frac {k_{x,m}}{k_{m}}}\,{\frac {a_{m}}{\tanh \left(k_{m}\,h\right)}}\,\sin \left(\theta _{m}\right),\\\eta &=\beta -\sum _{m=1}^{M}{\frac {k_{z,m}}{k_{m}}}\,{\frac {a_{m}}{\tanh \left(k_{m}\,h\right)}}\,\sin \left(\theta _{m}\right),\\\zeta &=\sum _{m=1}^{M}a_{m}\,\cos \left(\theta _{m}\right),\\\theta _{m}&=k_{x,m}\,\alpha +k_{z,m}\,\beta -\omega _{m}\,t-\phi _{m},\end{aligned}}}wheretanh{\displaystyle \tanh } is thehyperbolic tangent function,M{\displaystyle M} is the number of wave components considered,am{\displaystyle a_{m}} is theamplitude of componentm=1M{\displaystyle {m=1\dots M}} andϕm{\displaystyle \phi _{m}} itsphase. Furtherkm=kx,m2+kz,m2{\textstyle k_{m}={\sqrt {\scriptstyle k_{x,m}^{2}+k_{z,m}^{2}}}} is itswavenumber andωm{\displaystyle \omega _{m}} itsangular frequency. The latter two,km{\displaystyle k_{m}} andωm,{\displaystyle \omega _{m},} can not be chosen independently but are related through thedispersion relation:ωm2=gkmtanh(kmh),{\displaystyle \omega _{m}^{2}=g\,k_{m}\tanh \left(k_{m}\,h\right),}withh{\displaystyle h} the mean water depth. In deep water (h{\displaystyle h\to \infty }) the hyperbolic tangent goes to one:tanh(kmh)1.{\displaystyle {\tanh(k_{m}\,h)\to 1.}} The componentskx,m{\displaystyle k_{x,m}} andkz,m{\displaystyle k_{z,m}} of the horizontal wavenumbervectorkm{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {k}}_{m}} determine the wave propagation direction of componentm.{\displaystyle m.}

The choice of the various parametersam,kx,m,kz,m{\displaystyle a_{m},k_{x,m},k_{z,m}} andϕm{\displaystyle \phi _{m}} form=1,,M,{\displaystyle m=1,\dots ,M,} and a certain mean depthh{\displaystyle h} determines the form of the ocean surface. A clever choice is needed in order to exploit the possibility of fast computation by means of the FFT. See e.g.Tessendorf (2001) for a description how to do this. Most often, the wavenumbers are chosen on a regular grid in(kx,kz){\displaystyle (k_{x},k_{z})}-space. Thereafter, the amplitudesam{\displaystyle a_{m}} and phasesϕm{\displaystyle \phi _{m}} are chosen randomly in accord with thevariance-density spectrum of a certain desiredsea state. Finally, by FFT, the ocean surface can be constructed in such a way that it isperiodic both in space and time, enablingtiling – creating periodicity in time by slightly shifting the frequenciesωm{\displaystyle \omega _{m}} such thatωm=mΔω{\displaystyle \omega _{m}=m\,\Delta \omega } form=1,,M.{\displaystyle m=1,\dots ,M.}

In rendering, also thenormal vectorn{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {n}}} to the surface is often needed. These can be computed using thecross product (×{\displaystyle \times }) as:n=sα×sβwiths(α,β,t)=(ξ(α,β,t)ζ(α,β,t)η(α,β,t)).{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {n}}={\frac {\partial {\boldsymbol {s}}}{\partial \alpha }}\times {\frac {\partial {\boldsymbol {s}}}{\partial \beta }}\quad {\text{with}}\quad {\boldsymbol {s}}(\alpha ,\beta ,t)={\begin{pmatrix}\xi (\alpha ,\beta ,t)\\\zeta (\alpha ,\beta ,t)\\\eta (\alpha ,\beta ,t)\end{pmatrix}}.}

Theunit normal vector then isen=n/n,{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {e}}_{n}={\boldsymbol {n}}/\|{\boldsymbol {n}}\|,} withn{\displaystyle \|{\boldsymbol {n}}\|} thenorm ofn.{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {n}}.}

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^abcTessendorf (2001)
  2. ^abLamb (1994, §251)
  3. ^Stokes, G.G. (1880), "Supplement to a paper on the theory of oscillatory waves",Mathematical and Physical Papers, Volume I, Cambridge University Press, pp. 314–326,OCLC 314316422

References

[edit]
Waves
Upwelling





Antarctic bottom water
Circulation
Tides
Landforms
Plate
tectonics
Ocean zones
Sea level
Acoustics
Satellites
Related
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Trochoidal_wave&oldid=1290619739"
Categories:
Hidden categories:

[8]ページ先頭

©2009-2026 Movatter.jp