Terroir (/tɛrˈwɑːr/;French:[tɛʁwaʁ]ⓘ; fromterre,lit. 'lands') is aFrench term used to describe the environmental factors that affect a crop'sphenotype, including unique environment contexts, farming practices and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, these contextual characteristics are said to have a character;terroir also refers to this character.[1]
Some artisanal crops and foods for whichterroir may apply includewine,cheese,coffee,single malt whisky,onions, andtea.[2]
Terroir is the basis of the French wineappellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) system, which is a model for wineappellation and regulation inFrance and around the world. The AOC system presumes that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that growing site (the plants' habitat). The extent of terroir's significance is debated in the wine industry.[3]
Over the centuries, French winemakers developed the concept of terroir by observing the differences in wines from different regions, vineyards, or even different sections of the same vineyard. The French began[when?] to crystallize the concept of terroir as a way of describing the unique aspects of a place that influence and shape the wine made from it.[4] Long before the French, the wine-making regions of theancient world had already developed a concept of different regions having the potential to produce very different and distinct wines, even from the same grapes. TheAncient Greeks would stampamphorae with the seal of the region they came from, and different regions established reputations based on the quality of their wines. For centuries, literate and disciplined members of theBenedictine andCistercian orders cultivated grapes in much ofBurgundy. With vast landholdings, the monks could conduct large-scale observation of the influences that various parcels of land had on the wine it produced.[5] Some legends have the monks establishing the boundaries of differentterroirs – many of which still exist today as theGrand Cru vineyards of Burgundy.[6]
While wine experts disagree about the exact definition, particular consideration is given to the natural elements that are beyond the control of humans.
Components often described as aspects of terroir include:[3]
The interaction of climate and terroir is generally broken down from themacroclimate of a larger area (For example, theCôte de Nuits region ofBurgundy), down to themesoclimate of a smaller subsection of that region (such as the village ofVosne-Romanée) and even to the individualmicroclimate of a particular vineyard or row ofgrapevines (like theGrand Cru vineyard ofLa Grande Rue). The element of soil relates both to the composition and the intrinsic nature of thevineyard soils, such as fertility, drainage and ability to retain heat.[7] Geomorphology refers to natural landscape features likemountains,valleys andbodies of water, which affect how the climate interacts with the region, and includes the elements ofaspect andelevation of the vineyard location.[3] Other organisms growing in, on, and around the vine plots refers to the region specificfauna,flora, andmicroflora present in the vineyards. The microbial populations in vineyards have been described as being a quantifiable aspect of the overallterroir.[8][9]
Mark A. Matthews, a professor of viticulture and plant physiology atUniversity of California, Davis, has described the common conception of terroir as a myth. While Matthews agrees local characteristics can have an effect on plant growth and the wines made from particular grapes, he points out that the term is imprecisely defined, and also proposes the concept of terroir is accepted primarily based ontraditional belief, and is not backed by rigorous data or research.[10]
The definition of terroir can be expanded to include elements that are controlled or influenced by humans. This can include the decision of which grape variety to plant, though whether or not that grape variety will produce quality wine is an innate element of terroir that may be beyond human influence. Somegrape varieties thrive better in certain areas than in others. The winemaking decision of usingwild or ambient yeast infermentation instead of cultured or laboratory produced yeast can be a reflection of terroir. The use ofoak is a controversial element since some will advocate that its use is beneficial in bringing out the natural terroir characteristics while others will argue that its use can mask the influences of the terroir.[3] Vineyard management (e.g., growing grapesorganically orbiodynamically over a more conventional method of farming) can also be seen as a human controlled aspect of terroir.[11]
Many decisions during thegrowing andwinemaking process can either lessen or increase the expression of terroir in the wine. These include decisions aboutpruning,irrigation and selecting time ofharvest. At the winery, the use ofoak, cultured or ambient yeast, length ofmaceration and time in contact withlees, temperature duringfermentation, and processes likemicro-oxygenation,chaptalization,clarification withfining agents, andreverse osmosis all have the potential to either reduce or emphasize some aspect derived from the terroir. Winemakers can work between the extremes of producing wine that is terroir-driven and focused on purely expressing the unique aspects of a region's terroir, or winemaking that is done without any consideration given to terroir. Furthermore, aspects of terroir such as climate and soil type may be considered when deciding such things as which grape variety to plant if the goal is to make good wine rather than terroir-driven wine.[3]
The importance of these influences depends on the culture of a particular wine region. In France, particularly Burgundy, there is the belief that the role of a winemaker is to bring out the expression of a wine's terroir. The French word for "winemaker,"vigneron, is more aptly translated as "wine-grower" rather than "winemaker". The belief that the terroir is the dominant influence in the wine is the basis behind French wine labels emphasizing the region, vineyard, or AOC more prominently than thevarietal of grape, and often more prominently than the producer.[12]
The influence of terroir means that wines from a particular region are unique, incapable of being reproduced outside that area, even if the grape variety and winemaking techniques are painstakingly duplicated. Winemakers in Burgundy do not believe that they are producingPinot noir that happens to be grown in Burgundy, but that they are producing uniqueBurgundian wines that happen to be made from Pinot noir. Appellation systems, such as the French AOC systems, have developed around the concepts of "unique wines from a unique area". These systems have also developed intoprotected designation of origin across theEuropean Union so that, for example, winemakers from outside a region likeTuscany can not produce aSangiovese wine and call it aChianti. While the wine may be made from the sameclonal variety of Sangiovese, in the same soil composition as found in the Chianti region with winemakers using the Tuscan method of production, there is an assumption that the two wines will be different due to terroir.
The names of these European wine regions are protected so that wines from different regions and different terroir are not confused with wines from that those regions – i.e. aSpanish orAustralian "chianti". In theUnited States there is some confusion over the use ofsemi-generic names likeChampagne andPort but there has been more effort by the American wine industry to recognize the unique association of place names with the wines produced in those places, such as the 2005Napa Declaration on Place agreement. While appellation systems and the protected designations of origin can be a way of protecting "unique terroir", the commercial importance of terroir has been a much debated topic in the wine industry.[3]
Asclimate change disrupts long-established patterns of temperature and precipitation in wine-growing regions and causes more extreme weather events, there are potential serious impacts on terroir and the wine industry. Hotter temperatures and an earlier growing season can push berries towards a higher sugar content, less acids and differences in secondary compounds that are important for aromas. Growers are attempting toadapt in a variety of ways in response. In 2021, in a controversial move, the French National Institute for Agriculture, Food and Environment formally authorized wine producers in the Bordeaux region to experiment on a trial basis with four red and two white vine types selected from other areas of France. The new types can make up no more than 10% of the final wine blend. The rest must be from the six red and eight white grape varieties traditionally cultivated in the region during its 2,000 year history.[13][14] Another approach to protecting plants against the effects of climate change involves experimenting with rootstocks to develop plants that are resilient, vigorous and use water more efficiently under stressful conditions. Differences in planting, irrigation and harvesting practices are also being studied. Practices developed in warmer climates like Australia, Israel, South America, and Spain are being adapted for use in countries that used to be cooler, as temperatures rise.[13]
The concept of terroir exists in other drinks, notably in tea (Wuyi rock-essence tea being a notable example) andCognac where the chalky soil, climate and distance from the ocean are all factors influencing the product. Producers ofsingle malt whisky,bourbon,rum, andvodka use terroir elements in their production process, including wood flavors derived frombarrel aging.[15]
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The tenet of terroir has also been applied to the production ofartisan cheese,[16] and French authorities have fought to balance traditional cheesemakers terroir cheeses concerns with those of major industrialists.[17]
The flavor of cheeses (and other dairy products) is impacted by the production location.[18] For instance, Alpine pastures are composed of a larger variety of grasses, herbs, and flowers, than those in the lowlands. At higher elevations, the flora also changes significantly throughout thegrazing period (from spring to autumn), thus also impacting the taste of cheeses produced in different batches. In Switzerland, Alp cheese is typically indicated with a special logo, in addition to theAppellation d'origine protégée (AOP).[19]
A scientifically validated example of terroir can be found in the alpine cheeses of theAosta Valley (Italy), such asFontina. The diet of theValdostana cows includesAlpine clover (Trifolium alpinum), a plant that emits a strong, spicy fragrance. Research has confirmed that volatile organic compounds from this clover are transferred to the milk and can be detected in the final cheese, imparting a unique aroma and flavour.[20][21] Furthermore, specificfatty acids andhydrocarbons from the clover serve as reliable chemical biomarkers, providing an indelible chemical fingerprint that traces the cheese back to the specific clover-rich meadows where the cows grazed.[22]
The importance of terroir affects the price of the agricultural product as well as the products made from the product. Branding, variety, and farmer identification affects the price of a product. TheSlow Food movement appreciates history of a variety of plant or animal, the story of the farmer who produced it, and ultimately the quality of the product. Chefs and bakers develop their own list of qualities they desire for their creations, and terroir affects these.
Wine critics question the value of a Pinot noir wine from a Burgundy Grand Cru vineyard relative to a wine produced from the "lesser terroir" of aPremier Cru vineyard, and whether it merits the higher price. These doubts also arise when the quality of winemaking and other human influences are taken into account, which may be of a higher standard with the "lesser"premier cru.
These critics also question the difference betweenNew World andOld World wine and whether modern winemaking techniques – like significant oak influences,over-ripened fruit, cultured yeast, micro-oxygenation, and color pigment additives – obscure or even eliminate the influence of terroir in making different regions unique. Critics often point to the homogenizing effect on mass-produced wines made from popularvarietals likeChardonnay, which may have their terroir characteristics hidden by invasive and intensive winemaking. A heavily oaked, over-ripe Chardonnay fromCalifornia can taste very similar to the same style of wine from elsewhere. The marketability of wines from different regions and producers is affected by the importance accorded to terroir, both by the wine industry and consumer wine markets, with some producers downplaying terroir and its effect on their wines.[3]
Local products are the fruit of long agricultural traditions rooted in the local environment, using mainly local varieties adapted to the climate and environment, and requiring few external inputs. Their production also sustains landscapes with associated agricultural biodiversity, which in turn provides ecological services to agriculture. Last but not least, the specifications of the appellations forbid many products and techniques that are harmful to the environment, which means that the ecological virtues of 'terroir' farming are now a strong argument for its preservation, and even its expansion.[2]
In the United States, the principles of terroir have been applied in a few limited instances, such asVidalia onions, whose production area has been defined by theUnited States Department of Agriculture[23] andIndian River fruit, which can only carry that label if grown within an area defined by theUnited States Federal Trade Commission.[24]
In someEast Asian countries, terms liketerroir ormarriage have been popularised by Japanesemanga. A 2008–09Korean drama, most of whose leading characters work with wine, is titledTerroir after the main setting, a wine restaurant in turn named for the concept.
The concept of terroir has been discussed in several films and television shows.Jonathan Nossiter's 2004 documentary,Mondovino, explores the globalization of the wine business, and features interviews with a number of small producers, mostly French, who talk about terroir. In the 2006BBC series,Oz and James's Big Wine Adventure, one episode is almost entirely devoted toOz Clarke teachingJames May about terroir. At the end of the episode, May identifies three wines successfully, placing them in the correct order on the basis of the quality of terroir they come from.
Les Blank and Gina Leibrecht's 2007 documentary,All In This Tea, explores the importance of terroir and organic growing methods for the quality and future sustainability of theChinese tea market. Terroir is also a frequent topic of discussion in the Japanese wine comicLes Gouttes de Dieu. The filmsFrench Kiss andA Good Year also make references to terroir. Terroir recognition is a plot turning point in the 1976 French comedyL'aile ou la cuisse (The Wing or the Thigh) withLouis de Funès. In 2014Keith Carradine starred inJohn Charles Jopson'sEdgar Allan Poe-inspired filmTerroir. Terroir is frequently referenced inJeff VanderMeer's 2014 novelAuthority.
[...] the period most crucial in the region's history was the thousand-year period from the eighth century to the French Revolution, when much of the land and most of its wines were under the powerful command of Benedictine and Cistercian monks. [...] Contemplative by nature, patient in temperament, systematic in approach, committed to grueling physical labor, well bestowed with land, and, most important, literate, the monks were uniquely prepared for their mission: to delineate and codify Burgundy's vineyards. Plot by plot, they cleared and cultivated the most difficult limestone slopes of the Côte d'Or, studiously comparing vineyards and the wines made from them, recording their impressions over centuries. Tantamount to a millennium-long research project, the work of these monks [...] in fact, for the first time, established terroir as the critical core ofviticulture.
The secondary metabolites of the dicotyledonous plants found in mountain pastures like terpenoids or phenolic compounds are directly transferred to animal products
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