 Minangkabau man with a tengkolok headgear. | |
| Type | TraditionalHeadgear |
|---|---|
| Material | Songket |
| Place of origin | Maritime Southeast Asia[1] |
| Manufacturer | Malay people[2][3][4]Banjarese,Minangkabau,[5]Buginese,Makassar,Minahasa,Bajau,Kadazandusun,Gorontalo,Moro people andBrunei Malay people |
Tengkolok (Jawi:تڠكولوق), also known asTanjak,Destar (Minangkabau:Deta;Kelantan-Pattani:Semutar;Brunei:Dastar)[6] is a traditionalMalay orIndonesian[7] and male headgear. It is made from longsongket cloth folded and tied in a particular style (solek). Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonial functions, such as royal ceremonies by royalties, andwedding ceremonies by grooms.[8]
The termstengkolok,Tanjak, andsetanjak are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women",[6] but the definition of women's headgear is rarely used today.[9]
However, some people[who?] say thattengkolok,tanjak, anddestar are different in terms of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip;destar has low tying and its tying layers are fewer thantengkolok;tanjak has tying much liketengkolok, the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin.
Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and designs of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress.[10] The general term for different forms oftengkolok issolek. Eachsolek also has its different special name, for instance: thetengkolok worn byYang di-Pertuan Agong during the coronation ceremony is known asSolek Dendam Tak Sudah (Persistent Vengeance Style).
Every Malay king has their particularsolek. For example, the Sultan ofSelangor wears a richly golden yellowSolek Balung Raja (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.
The traditional attire of theBrunei Malay population, locally known as destar, represents the significance ofMalay rulers andnobility throughout history. In addition, it served as a representation of thesocial structure of the time, separatingcommoners fromdignitaries until the head covering became theMalay custom of dressing.[11] Over twomillennia have passed since the discovery ofBrunei's destar types, which include Destar Taruna, Helang Benari, Singa Menerpa, Layar Bahtera, Nakhoda Sailar, and Hulubalang Diraja. The destar's production process, it was previously known that a high-quality dastar requires a week to complete, which has a more adaptable notion, is what makes it distinctive.[8]
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